Thermal insulation of monolithic floors. Features of floor insulation Warming of wooden floors between floors

When basement or the cellar in your house is heated, floor insulation loses its meaning. But with low temperatures underground, this issue is gaining relevance.

It must be borne in mind that in our case the heat leaves from top to bottom, which means that water vapor will also move, which will diffuse from the room. When performing thermal protection of such an overlap, it is necessary to ensure the temperature on the floor surface is as close as possible to its value in the room itself. Also, this difference should not exceed 2 Co. From here it is easy to understand that our floors for this case need to be equipped with thermal insulation.

To reliably protect the applied insulation from moisture, the thermal insulation is placed on the cold side of the floor (from the basement side), and a vapor barrier is installed above it. To provide the floor with higher heat-shielding properties, it is not laid on solid base, but leave an underground space. It is better when the heat is absorbed by your floor insignificantly (up to 12 W / m2xCo). This is most inherent in the tree. Concrete, marble and cement absorb heat with great intensity. Therefore, it is better to lay boards or their wood substitutes over the cold underground. You can use linoleum or other polymers.

Overlapping in a wooden version

Before the beginning floor insulation it is necessary to ensure the dryness of the underground. This is most reliably achieved by using supply and exhaust. When arranging above the ground, the ground is well rammed and 15-20 cm of sand is covered, an air gap is left on top, and only after that logs are laid. If there is a basement or basement under the floor, it is best to roll up tightly fitted planks or lay a waterproof oriented strand board (OSB) over the joists.

The resulting surface is covered with glassine or waterproof film, on top of which the insulation material is placed (preferably basalt or staple fiberglass). It is covered with OSB-3 or unedged boards... When the "rough" is ready, you can lay the finishing coat. It is important not to forget about the ventilation gap (at least 1 cm) between the floor and the floor, which is covered with a plinth. Since the plinth becomes the main insulation of the wall-floor corner, the thermal protection provided by it can be increased by increasing its size or by laying a soft insulation layer under it.

Insulation of reinforced concrete floor panels

When prefabricated iron was chosen when arranging the floor concrete plates, he always needs insulation, regardless of the attic or basement, it separates. First, using a mixture of sand and cement, all the seams of the joints and any flaws in the structure are stamped (filled). When the surface leveling is completed, it is coated with a waterproofing compound, and when it dries up, it is covered with a vapor barrier film and insulation, the thickness of which is selected after carrying out a heat engineering calculation. The strips of the film are stacked on top of each other, gluing the joints with special tapes.

When using a heater with a polymer structure (for example extruded polystyrene foam) the need for steam and disappears. When the necessary insulation boards cannot be selected, two layers of material can be used. In this case, do not forget about the gap in the location of the layers' joints. Insulation closes cement-sand screed, into which a metal or polymer reinforcing mesh is introduced. leveled with a leveling compound and covered with a waterproofing solution (for attic floors the latter is optional). Next, the selected flooring: from and to or parquet.

Performing thermal insulation of any floor, the main factor in the quality of the work performed is accuracy and compliance with the necessary regulations. Have reinforced concrete floors all insulating material is also selected taking into account further operational loads. For loaded floors, it is necessary to use a high-strength, low-deformable insulation - a rigid mineral wool slab with basalt fiber or dense extruded polystyrene foam. Unloaded floors can be insulated with ordinary glass wool, foam, polyurethane foam and all sorts of special backfills.

Thermal insulation of wooden floors between floors

In most cases, such ceilings do not require insulation, since the temperature indicators of the rooms shared by them are close to each other. The need for insulation interfloor structures arises only with the device or for improvement. To do this, logs are attached to the beams with further arrangement of the rough and final floor. The space remaining between the beams is filled thermal insulation material... A vapor barrier film is laid on the bottom of the insulation and a boardwalk is equipped, to which the finishing is hemmed.

Thermal insulation of wooden floors for the attic

When in the house cold attic, it is there that the 6th part of the energy spent on heating the premises goes. Good insulation will help keep the ceiling warm and prevent mold. In cases where it is absent, the insulation of the floor is performed from the under-roof side. They choose basalt slabs or fiberglass, as well as foil-clad thermal insulation. Place it with foil to a warm room.

The insulation is laid on a plank run between the joists, waterproofing and floorboards or OSB boards are placed on top for protection. A vapor-proof material is attached to the ceiling of the room to be insulated, which is hemmed with boards or plasterboard material.

Correct installation of floors of a brick house

The installation of load-bearing beams in a brick (block) house is carried out in special, pre-prepared, recesses in the walls. The structure is fixed with metal anchors. In the outer walls, the beams are installed tightly. The depth of their embedding is at least 180 mm, of which 30 mm is the width of the beam-to-wall air gap. To avoid rotting, before laying, the ends of the beams must be impregnated with an antiseptic and wrapped in tar paper with mastic, and then repaired with a solution. On the interior walls beams are laid using waterproofing.

Equipment of floors and ceilings for frame houses

Here it is necessary to insulate the floor above a ventilated basement or other cold room. For this, bulk mineral wool slabs and mats will be most suitable. Several wooden bars are installed on the lower side of the lag, the gaps between which are filled with insulation, fixed plastic mesh or spring wire. In order to avoid damage by rodents, the bottom of the mats is covered with a continuous sheathing with material impregnated from them.

To prevent mold, rot and bad smell, the room and insulation need ventilation. Therefore, a small gap is left between the wall and the insulating mats. In places ventilation holes the ceiling is equipped with rigid thermal insulation. The warm side of the mats is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is joined with the vapor barrier material of the wall.

Floor slabs are reinforced concrete products that are produced for the construction of various structures. They are made of crushed stone and concrete with powerful reinforcement.

The ceilings are made of crushed stone and concrete with the use of powerful reinforcement.

Laying floor slabs, like any technology, has its own characteristics and rules that you need to pay attention to.

It is important to familiarize yourself with the main stages of work in advance in order to avoid mistakes during the construction process.

In private construction, floors are most often used from reinforced concrete round hollow core slabs... They are popular for their benefits that differentiate them from other types of flooring. Thanks to the voids that are filled with air, they perfectly retain heat and increase sound insulation. Unlike some other similar products, they are significantly lighter, which reduces the load on the supporting structures.

Necessary tools for work: trowel, hammer, tape measure.

To carry out the work, you will need the appropriate tools and equipment:

truck crane or tower crane;
loop capture;
steel box for mortar;
construction steel scrap;
electrode holder;
Bulgarian;
shovels: mortar and picking;
trowel;
cam, crowbar;
steel wire brush;
hammer and chisel;
- bucket;
roulette, level.

The following materials will be needed:

overlapping;
cement-sand mortar;
electrodes;
expanded polystyrene.

Hollow core slab scheme.

Hollow ceilings are manufactured to order in any size, but sometimes situations arise during the installation process when it is necessary to reduce their width or length, cut the desired shape... In this case, the stove must be chopped using a grinder and a crowbar.

There are two cutting options: lengthwise and crosswise. In order to cut the material across, the following scheme is used:

the overlap is located horizontally with linings laid under it;
the necessary markings are applied for shortening;
the structure is cut with a grinder along the marked lines;
with the help of a cam, strikes are made on the voids near the cut line along the entire width;
a crowbar breaks through the lower wall of the pipe, and the fittings under it are cut with a grinder with installed disk for metal.

Roughly the same pattern is used to cut lengthwise. But this will take more time, since the length is greater than the width. The stages of work will be as follows:

it is necessary to outline a line and make a longitudinal cut along it with a grinder;
break the wall of the void that runs along the slab with a cam;
break through the bottom wall of the pipe with a crowbar.

During cutting in concrete layer there are rods of reinforcing mesh, which can also be cut with a grinder.

Insufficient width stacking

Floor slab installation diagram.

In the process of laying the slabs, it may turn out that the dimensions of the room do not correspond to their dimensions. As a result, gaps arise between the floor elements or between them and the wall. Exists simple circuit elimination of this problem.

The size of the gap must be divided into two equal parts. In this case, the first slab is laid at a certain distance from the wall, which is equal to the width of one of the parts obtained. All other structures are mounted end-to-end. As a result, a gap forms between the slab and the last wall, where it is necessary to poke the cinder block. It is securely fixed, as it rests with a poke against the plate. It is necessary to lay the cinder block so that its holes are directed to the sides, and not down or up. Outer wall structures it will be additionally secured. This design may seem unreliable at first glance, but in reality it is quite durable.

There is another technology for bridging the gap, when its size is distributed between the plates. Then a board is tied under each gap, which serves as a formwork, into which reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured.

Cracked structure

Sometimes during construction, it is discovered that the floor slab has cracked even before it was laid. This defect is caused by improper storage or transportation. The construction material must be stored in a certain way, observing the basic rules.

Structural elements must be stacked without touching the ground. Under the bottom one should put a non-soaking and non-decaying base, sufficiently high and durable. It is advisable to lay the plates in a horizontal position and install spacers between them from wooden slats... The distance from the rail to the edge of the product should be 20-40 cm.

If all the necessary conditions observed, if there is a solid foundation, the stack can have 8-10 rows, but should not have a height of more than 2.5 meters.

Broken slab laying

If the slab is cracked, can it be used as a floor? Builders quite often use flooring materials with similar defects during construction, they fit, provided that the cracks are not too large. In this case, it is important not to load them too much and additionally fix them.

There are several options for where it is better to install cracked slabs.

Let it go outside or load-bearing wall by 0.1-0.15 m. Such a laying scheme assumes that the slab will simultaneously rest on three walls not only with its short edges, but also with its long side. It is reliably pressed by the higher walls, thereby providing additional fastening.
You can lay the slab where the brick partition is installed, which will support it.
There is another installation scheme, when the burst material is mounted between two integers. During installation, rustic patterns are formed between the structures, which must be carefully sealed with mortar in order to create an almost monolithic overlap.
The deformed board can be laid in a place where there is a minimum load. For example, for an attic floor, but it is important that the structural elements of the roof do not rest on it.
If the cracks are quite large, about 4-10 mm or there are many of them, it is necessary to cut off the damaged part and use only the whole one.

Sealing joints

A joint or rust is where the long sides join. To get a solid and solid overlap, all the rustication must be filled with mortar. Hollow core flooring materials have locks on the sides that look like circular recesses. In the process of pouring the rustic stones, the recesses are filled with concrete and the slabs are securely connected to each other.

Sometimes you come across defective products with incorrectly made sides with locks. When they are connected, the notch is at the bottom, and at the top they fit tightly. As a result, it seems that it will be difficult to fill such rust with concrete. In reality, the scheme of work is quite simple. To close up the defective rust, it is necessary to connect the floor elements not end-to-end, but to leave a small gap - 2-3 cm. It should be located in the upper part. At the bottom, along the length of the rust, you need to tie wooden board, which will serve as a formwork for pouring concrete. A solution that is not thick in consistency is poured into the rust through the upper gap. After the solution hardens, the work can be considered completed.

Installation technology

Prefabricated floor slab diagram.

Plates are stacked and lifted by a truck crane. A device is attached to its main hook, which has four cables of the same length with hooks, which are connected to mounting loops located on the floor. This arrangement prevents rotation during lifting and keeps the product in a horizontal position.

The technology provides for laying the material on a mortar, which will prevent the formation of cracks and contribute to a strong adhesion of building elements. Therefore, within 10-20 minutes, it is allowed to move them using a crowbar to give desired position... The slabs should rest on the load-bearing walls and go on them by about 0.12-0.15 m.

A steel bar is inserted into the mounting loops, which are located nearby, and its protruding edges are bent inward, and then connected using welding. As a result, the adjacent slabs are firmly held together.

It is important that the laying of the floor is carried out in the most comfortable conditions. For example, you can place a dish with a solution on the first installed structure, so as not to be distracted from work and not to waste time and energy, each time going downstairs for it.

The laying scheme after the completion of their installation provides for the sealing of the ends to prevent freezing. These actions will help to additionally retain heat in the house, since the cold will not be able to get inside.

Sealing the ends

There are several ways to seal the ends of the slabs.

You can use mineral wool and fill the voids of the pipes with it by about 0.2-0.3 m in depth.
Fill voids 0.12-0.25 m with light concrete mortar or close it with concrete plugs.
To fill the voids, use a backfill brick with mortar and seal the surface with mortar.

Sometimes the slab is very close to the front masonry. If there is no insulation between them and the ends are not sealed, the overlap will begin to freeze and ice in the room. The stove will become a source of cold, and when the heating is turned on, "dew" forms on its surface due to the sharp temperature drop. To get rid of this problem already finished house, the following scheme of actions will do.

It is necessary to drill a hole in the frozen pipes with a puncher from the underside of the slab.
Insert a tube into the resulting recess, inclined towards the outer wall and blow out through it polyurethane foam.
As a result, a cork of foam should be obtained, penetrating to a depth of 01, -0.2 m, which will act as a heat insulator.

The ends must be sealed not only for slabs resting on the outer walls, but also for those that rest on the inner ones.

Floor slabs

Factory floor slabs are a very popular option for floors in IZHS, because the alternative - a monolithic concrete floor - is a much more time-consuming thing, difficult for inexperienced private developers. Unlike the monolith, the slabs come with a factory-guaranteed maximum load, which is more than enough in a private house.

Description

There are two GOSTs on floor slabs in Russia:

GOST 9561-91 “Reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs for buildings and structures. Specifications. "
GOST 26434-85 “Reinforced concrete floor slabs for residential buildings. Types and basic parameters. "

These GOSTs are similar in content, and both GOSTs are valid. According to GOST 9561-91, floor slabs are divided into:

1PK - 220 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 159 mm, designed to be supported on both sides;
1PKT - the same, for support on three sides;
1PCK - the same, for support on four sides;
2PK - 220 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 140 mm, designed to be supported on both sides;
2PKT - the same, for support on three sides;
2PCK - the same, for support on four sides;
3PK - 220 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 127 mm, designed to be supported on both sides;
3PKT - the same, for support on three sides;
3PCK - the same, for support on four sides;
4PK - 260 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 159 mm and cutouts in the upper zone along the contour, intended for support on both sides;
5PK - 260 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 180 mm, designed to be supported on both sides;
6PK - 300 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 203 mm, designed to be supported on both sides;
7PK - 160 mm thick with round voids with a diameter of 114 mm, designed to be supported on both sides;
PG - 260 mm thick with pear-shaped voids, designed to be supported on both sides;
PB - 220 mm thick, manufactured by continuous molding on long stands and designed to be supported on both sides.

This list does not include floor slabs of the PNO type, which are found in manufacturers of precast concrete elements. In general, as far as I understand, board manufacturers are not required to comply with GOST (Government Decree No. 982 dated December 1, 2009), although many produce and mark boards in accordance with GOST.

Manufacturers produce slabs different sizes, you can almost always find the size you need.

Floor slabs in most cases are prestressed (paragraph 1.2.7 GOST 9561-91). Those. the reinforcement in the slabs is stretched (thermally or mechanically), and after the concrete has set, it is released back. Compression forces are transferred to the concrete, the slab becomes stronger.

The ends of the slabs that are involved in the support, manufacturers can strengthen: fill round voids with concrete or narrow in this place cross section voids. If they are not filled by the manufacturer and the house turns out to be heavy (accordingly, the load of the walls on the ends increases), then the voids in the area of the ends can be filled with concrete yourself.

Plates usually have special loops on the outside, for which they are lifted by a crane. Sometimes the reinforcement loops are located inside the slab in open cavities located closer to the four corners.

Floor slabs in accordance with paragraph 1.2.13 of GOST 9561-91 are designated as: slab type - length and width in decimeters - design load per stove in kilopascals (kilogram-force per square meter). The steel grade of the reinforcement and other characteristics may also be indicated.

Manufacturers do not bother with the designation of the types of plates and in the price lists they usually write the type of plate only PC or PB (without any 1PC, 2PC, etc.). For example, the designation "PK 54-15-8" means a 1PC slab 5.4 m long and 1.5 m wide and with a maximum permissible distributed load of about 800 kg / m 2 (8 kilopascals = 815.77 kgf / m 2 ).

Floor slabs have bottom (ceiling) and top (floor) sides.

According to paragraph 4.3 of GOST 9561-91, slabs can be stored in a stack with a height of not more than 2.5 m. Spacers for the bottom row of plates and gaskets between them in a stack should be placed near the mounting loops.

Supporting the plates

Floor slabs have a bearing zone. According to clause 6.16 "Guidelines for the design of residential buildings, Vol. 3 (to SNiP 2.08.01-85) ":

The depth of support of precast plates on the walls, depending on the nature of their support, is recommended to be taken at least, mm: when supporting along the contour, as well as on two long and one short sides - 40; when leaning on two sides and a span of plates of 4.2 m or less, as well as on two short and one long sides - 50; with support on both sides and a span of plates of more than 4.2 m - 70.

The slabs also have a series of working drawings, for example, "series 1.241-1, issue 22". In these series, the minimum bearing depth is also indicated (it can vary). In general, the minimum bearing depth of the slab must be checked with the manufacturer.

But there are questions with the maximum depth of support of the plates. V different sources given absolutely different meanings, somewhere it is written that 16 cm, somewhere 22 or 25. One comrade on Youtube assures that the maximum is 30 cm. Psychologically, it seems to a person that the deeper the stove is pushed into the wall, the more reliable it will be. However, there is definitely a limit to the maximum depth, because if the slab enters the wall too deeply, then bending loads "work" differently for it. The deeper the slab enters the wall, the usually lower the allowable stresses from loads on the support ends of the slab. Therefore, it is better to find out the value of the maximum support from the manufacturer.

Similarly, the slabs must not be supported outside the support zones. Example: On one side the slab is lying correctly, while the other side hangs down from the middle load-bearing wall. Below I have drawn this:

If the wall is built of "weak" wall materials like aerated concrete or foam concrete, then you will need to build an armored belt in order to remove the load from the edge of the wall and distribute it over the entire area of the wall blocks. For warm ceramics, an armored belt is also desirable, although instead of it you can lay several rows of ordinary durable solid bricks, which do not have such support problems. With the help of an armored belt, it is also possible to ensure that the plates together form a flat plane, so expensive plastering of the ceiling is not required.

Laying slabs

Plates are placed on the wall / armopoyas on a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 1-2 cm, no more. Quote from SP 70.13330.2012 (updated version of SNiP 3.03.01-87) "Bearing and enclosing structures", clause 6.4.4:

Floor slabs must be laid on a mortar layer no more than 20 mm thick, aligning the surfaces of adjacent slabs along the seam from the side of the ceiling.

Those. the slabs are leveled to create an even ceiling, and the uneven floor can then be leveled with a screed.

During installation, the plates are placed only on those sides that are provided for support. In most cases, these are only two sides (for PB and 1PK slabs), so you cannot "pinch" the third side with a wall, which is not intended for support. Otherwise, the plate clamped from the third side will not correctly perceive the loads from above, and cracks may form.

Floor slabs must be laid before the construction of interior partitions; the slabs should not initially rest on them. Those. first you need to let the slab "sag", and only then build non-load-bearing interior walls (partitions).

The gap between the plates (the distance between the sides) can be different. They can be laid close, or with a gap of 1-5 cm. The space of the gap between the floor slabs is then sealed with mortar. Usually the gap width is obtained "by itself" when calculating the required number of slabs, their size and the distance to be covered.

After laying, floor slabs can be tied together using, for example, welding. This is done in earthquake-prone regions (Yekaterinburg, Sochi, etc.), in ordinary regions it is not necessary.

In places where it is difficult to pick up a floor slab or it is not possible to mount it correctly, a monolithic floor should be poured. It must be poured after installing the factory plates in order to correctly set the thickness of the monolith. You need to make sure of the rigidity of the installation of a monolithic floor, especially if a staircase will rest on it. The space between floor slabs is not always trapezoidal or with slab protrusions on which to lean. If the monolith turns out to be rectangular and does not hold on to the beveled edges of adjacent slabs, then it can simply fall out.

Warming

The ends of the floor slabs lying on the outer walls must be insulated, because reinforced concrete has a high thermal conductivity and the slab in this place becomes a cold bridge. Extruded polystyrene foam can be used as insulation. Drew an example:

Into the carrier outer wall 50 cm thick includes a plate with a support of 12 cm, which is insulated with EPS ( Orange color) 5 cm thick.

When building residential buildings, concrete floor slabs are often used. These reinforced concrete products are used both for overlapping floors and for building walls. They are made of high quality concrete with a reinforced frame. The reliability and durability of buildings mainly depends on the quality of the materials used.

Thermal insulation scheme for floor slabs.

Overlapping with a monolithic slab

Differs in increased strength, which allows them to be used in places with an increased risk of sagging. Maximum protection against various deformations, but at the same time poor sound insulation. It has a lot of weight, which is a significant disadvantage of this type during construction.

Hollow structures

Drawing of a hollow core slab.

The most popular, due to the lighter weight of the product. Due to the voids, these slabs have low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation. Manufacturing costs are significantly less than in the production of monolithic slabs. They are often made of ribbed or aerated concrete.

Floor slabs are mainly manufactured in fixed dimensions. And when designing a building, it is imperative to take into account the dimensions of the standard slabs produced. Depending on the requirements for the future construction, the slabs are classified by weight. Their mass on average varies from 500 kg to 4 tons.

The use of concrete hollow core slabs in the construction of foundations has been carried out for quite some time. But the installation of protection against freezing of floor slabs is not always thought out.

Damp and freezing walls are one of the most serious factors in the fragility of buildings.

The appearance of mold significantly affects the health of the inhabitants of the houses.

Factors of freezing of walls

Installation diagram of a reinforced concrete floor slab.

Incorrect filling of joints between slabs. Poorly filled seams lead to a violation of the heat-shielding properties of the floors. The chance of cracking increases. Through them, the stove collects moisture.
Poor quality solution in the manufacture of products. Choosing cheap or dilute solutions will result in frequent moisture ingress. They are usually very loose and cannot withstand pressure.
Errors in the design of the heating system. Poorly heated rooms are much more susceptible to frostbite on the walls. After the accumulation of moisture, they begin to freeze both from the outside and from the inside.
Overcooling of metal reinforcing elements and anchors. When various cracks appear, moisture begins to get onto the metal components of the hollow core slabs. As a result, corrosion can occur. The structure of such plates softens and is more prone to decay from low temperatures.
Exhaust pipes collect condensate. With low draft, moisture builds up inside the chimneys, causing them to freeze and reduce efficiency. At the same time, poor air circulation contributes to the accumulation of unnecessary moisture.
Small wall thickness. The thickness of the walls is not taken into account for their use in the climatic conditions of the region.
Low heat engineering qualities of the materials used. When choosing materials, basically the scale outweighs in the direction of strength, while often, when installing insulation, it is simply not taken into account low level thermal insulation.
Insufficient through ventilation. In poorly ventilated rooms, the outer walls freeze through much more, losing their heat-shielding properties. Unsatisfactory internal waterproofing between the wall and the insulation leads to freezing of the outer surface, and then to the destruction of the masonry.
Foundations with poor waterproofing, especially in houses without basements.
Violation of the structure of the vapor barrier in the attic floors. Poorly executed ceiling insulation transfers the performance of its functions to cement screed. Concrete surface collects moisture, accumulating condensation, and moisturizes the insulation. The heat-shielding material begins to lose its original properties, which are significantly reduced, as a result of which the floor slabs begin to freeze. The insulation also increases its weight due to the accumulated liquid.
Frequently heated basements.
Blind areas are incorrect or missing.
The vertical waterproofing of the basement walls is incorrect. Low air circulation leads to mold and condensation.
Poor concrete compaction during production. The frost resistance and water tightness of the structure of the produced hollow core slabs depend on the quality of concrete compaction. A poorly compacted composition becomes too porous and the protection of the substrate is significantly reduced.
Installation of insufficient thickness of the finishing layer.

By saving on the finishing layer, as a result, you can get global destruction. When the air temperature fluctuates, the cladding gradually crumbles, reducing the wall's protection from getting wet and frost. As a result, the fortress of the entire building is disrupted, increasing the chances of emergencies.

Prevention measures

To protect floor slabs from freezing, you need to take the following measures:

Floor slab layout with waterproofing.

Carefully and tightly fill the gap between the plates.
High-quality installation of sealing joints should be waterproof (thanks to sealing mastics) and heat-shielding (using insulating bags). With air protection, the distance between the plates is filled with gaskets. Compression of the material of such gaskets should be at least 30-50%.
Monitor and check the ventilation of the building as often as possible.
Poor air circulation in rooms contributes to the drying out of the thermal insulation layers for a long time, the accumulation of excess moisture and the appearance of mold. The heaving soil under the base of the foundation and walls should not be allowed to freeze basement floor, do not allow the air temperature in the basement to fall below zero.
If the building does not have a basement, then it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing between the ground and the surface of the basement.
Increase the thermal insulation layer on the attic floors.
Maintain the blind areas and drainage devices... Reducing the probability of freezing of hollow core slabs depends on the efficiency of their work.
For the first 3 years of operation of the building, the distance must be cleared drainage systems at least twice a year, thereafter - once every three years.
On damp areas of the walls, dry them without starting their condition.
Try to reduce humidity in poorly ventilated rooms. In any room the air humidity should not exceed 60%.

How to fix it

Of course, it is always better to prevent a problem than to correct its consequences. But if the measures were not taken on time and freezing still began, you need to start correcting mistakes as soon as possible. There are a number different methods fixes for problems with freezing walls.

Depending on the reasons and locations

Floor slab laying scheme.

Dampness and black spots in the area last floors, as a rule, occurs if the installation of insulation of the attic floor is insufficiently or poorly performed. First of all, defects in the joints between the slabs are eliminated, which reduces the appearance of moisture on the inner walls. Usually, expanded clay is used as insulation for attic floors. According to the norms, for its productive action, it must be at least 30 cm.

Be sure to check for ventilation problems attic space... The lack of high-quality air exchange leads to the appearance of condensation and overcooling of the floor slabs. Check the roof for leaks.
Problems can also arise due to poor-quality sealing of joints in walls and balcony slabs. Moisture can seep into the joints between the wall and the slabs, causing damp stains. Dry the walls as soon as possible and seal up moisture spots.

If the gap is not more than 8 cm, then you can use polyurethane foam. To use it, you must first clean the edges of the gap from concrete crumbs. Polyethylene and silicone surfaces require additional treatment with acetone. Foam hardens within 24 hours. Then the excess foam must be cut off, you can use a clerical knife, and plaster the surface, thereby closing the cold bridge. If the gap at the junction is more than 8 cm, then you will have to use a thick cement mortar.

Check the efficiency of balcony drains. If the sealing of the joints of the seams is broken, it is best to carry out it again, using newer and quality materials... The strength of the building structure largely depends on the quality of filling the joints. Correct sealing should be carried out only after careful preparation of the surface:

repair the outer surfaces of the wall panels;
dry all wet and damp areas;
remove all damaged sealant before applying a new coat.

In no case should mastic be allowed to be applied to wet and untreated areas. It is best to repair joints in positive and dry weather.
If an imbalance in the thermal protection of the walls is detected, insulation should be done by expanding them.

Wall insulation options

For example, using the layer brickwork can be veneered outside walls. This can be done without any special skills. For this you will need:

Wall insulation scheme.

bricks;
level, tape measure and ordering, if the wall needs to be erected high;
sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 4: 1 or adhesive solution for masonry;
drill with mixer;
trowel and container for mortar;
access to electricity.

You can also insulate the walls with plaster insulation on reinforcement mesh... For this, using dowels, the reinforcing mesh is mounted to the wall. The latter does not have to be metallic. Plaster is applied between the wall and the mesh and on top. It can be either a cement mortar or a ready-made dry mix for wet rooms. Moisture-resistant solutions are more expensive, but they serve much longer than conventional ones, since they have special additives in their composition.

Another of the most high-quality methods is the installation of a vapor barrier material and insulation from the inside. concrete wall... Installation is carried out by installing a frame lined with tiled insulation. To make such a frame and fill the distance with insulation between the wall and finishing material, you can use a variety of clamps and hardware. It can be mounting brackets, plastic dowels, "fungi", and glue, as in finished form, and in the form of a dry mixture that requires preparation. After that, it is imperative to make the facing with plaster or any other finishing material.

Materials for the frame and insulation:

metal profiles or wooden slats;
self-tapping screws for metal or wood;
sealant and polyurethane foam;
vapor barrier membrane or aluminum foil on isoprene;
sheet insulation, mineral or fiberglass wool;
dry mix for plaster.

Tools for frame installation and insulation:

grinder with circles for cutting metal or special scissors;
drill with mixer attachment;
screwdrivers or screwdriver;
tape measure, level and pencil;
spatulas and graters for grinding;
container for solution.

Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house.

A space of about 50 mm must be left between the frame and the wall and covered with expanded clay. This material will perfectly absorb the remaining moisture from the wall and stop the growth of mold. This increases the wall thickness by 150 mm. There are 80 mm foam blocks that successfully replace such frame structures. Installation is carried out on a conventional cement-sand mortar (1: 4).

On particularly cold and damp walls, you can install a system called "warm floor", or run along the perimeter warm skirting board... This solution works best for corner rooms. When choosing a method for heating walls, the electric film option, or IR floor, is most suitable. Do not install it yourself. To heat the seam under the skirting board, you can use a warm floor, where as heating element a cable is being used.

Installation of a stationary wall-mounted electric heater will not completely solve the problem of poor-quality insulation between the plates, but you can install it yourself.

For this you will need:

drill or hammer drill;
anchors or dowels;
hammer;
power socket.

Whatever the reason for the freezing of hollow core slabs, it is necessary to significantly reduce the humidity in the rooms, be sure to check the efficiency of ventilation and control the quality of the heating system. All work on the repair of the building and the elimination of the causes of freezing should be carried out carefully and accurately. Forgetting about some detail, you run the risk of facing this problem again, and very soon.

Floors made of monolithic reinforced concrete floor slabs have long been known and have proven themselves well in the construction of private and multi-storey buildings... To this day, they are in demand and are popular, especially when building large cottages. Reinforced concrete hollow floor slabs have a lot of advantages, the design of these slabs is such that, in addition to evenly distributing the load over the entire surface, they also additionally add rigidity and stability to the building.

General information and advantages of reinforced concrete slabs

The slabs are made of concrete, in which iron reinforcement is installed during pouring. Slabs have longitudinal voids along their length round shape, which in combination with fittings gives the design a huge advantage. Reinforced concrete slab is able to withstand bends, does not break under high loads, it is very durable when properly used during construction. Monolithic slabs factory production meet all the requirements for floors, they are durable and resistant at high temperatures. It is very important that a reinforced concrete slab is a good sound insulator and, in addition, retains heat.

Equally important is the fact that the use of slabs in construction greatly speeds up and simplifies the process, they can be installed where no other method of flooring is suitable. For example, laying the floors of a private house with an area of more than 100 m² using casting will take a long time, in addition, labor costs and financial costs will be much higher than when laying the floor with reinforced concrete slabs.

Correct selection of plates and calculation

When laying the floor of the first floor, you need to understand that a large load will be placed on it, therefore it is important to correctly calculate the weight of the structure and take into account everything, up to the total weight of the house and furniture or equipment that will be installed in the premises. The thickness of reinforced concrete slabs is standard and equal to 220 mm, but slabs can be designed for different weight loads depending on their brand. Here the reinforcement of the slab plays a role and what grade of concrete it is made of.

Reinforced concrete slabs are produced in lengths of 2.4-6.8 meters, the width of such slabs, depending on the length, is equal to 1.2-1.5 meters, weight 0.9-2.5 tons. This allows you to use small technique, cranes up to 3 tons of cargo lifting. It is not difficult to understand which plate you need, markings are put on the surface, for example, the PK 8-42-12 plate will be 4.2 meters long, 1.2 m wide, with a weight load of 800 kg / m².

Installation rules for slabs depending on the floor

When laying floor slabs, it is important to consider where they will be laid, since the rules for installing a basement floor differ from laying a floor between floors.

In the case of laying the basement floor, it is necessary first to carry out work to level the foundation, namely top edge... To do this, the upper edge of the foundation is made of a low formwork made of boards; here it is necessary to pour a small layer of concrete in order to bring out a perfectly flat surface horizontally. Now a reinforced concrete slab can be laid on such a site.

The slabs are laid taking into account their taper, it turns out Bottom part the slabs will be flush with the adjacent one. A small seam forms at the top, which must be repaired cement mortar... Thus, it turns out practically Smooth surface floor in the shortest possible time. Depending on what kind of floor you will be installing, you may need to make a thin screed, but for most materials that cover the floor, a slab will work without additional finishing.

In the case when a reinforced concrete slab is laid as an overlap between floors, then an additional reinforced concrete belt must be made on the walls of bricks or blocks. This is something like a seismic belt, which is performed in the following way. When the height of the walls is laid out to the desired height, another row is being laid, but one layer must be laid in order to leave the inner end around the entire perimeter, into which the slab will lie, and from the outside this place will be closed with a brick. Before laying the slab, as in the first case, it is necessary to formwork and pour a thin layer of concrete with reinforcement laying. As a result, a niche is formed with a small gap for laying insulation materials, where the slab is placed. A thin layer of reinforced concrete increases the strength of the surface and evenly distributes the load from the slab along the walls.

Warming

Floor slabs themselves serve good insulation, since they are located inside the premises of the house, there is no need to insulate them, however, it is necessary to insulate the ends. The slab has a high thermal conductivity, which is undoubtedly good, since the slab of the upper floor conducts heat from below and thus the floor becomes warm. But the plate will receive cold from the ends, so you need to protect it with a layer of insulation. In the niche that was formed during the reinforcement process, in the places where the slab adjoins the wall, it is necessary to lay insulation. Then this space, like the rest of the cracks, is poured with concrete.

It is imperative to make insulation, otherwise condensation will form in these voids, which the plate will absorb and gradually collapse. In addition to the destruction of the slab, moisture will appear in the room, and in places where there are fittings, rust will appear, which will not be covered with any putty.

Actually, this is the process of creating floors and floor slabs finished, now you can start finishing the floor with materials. As already mentioned, it may be necessary to perform a thin leveling layer of the screed.

With these types of work, construction equipment can significantly help you, for example