Cherry tree care in spring - choosing a location and planting! Spring planting of cherries: useful recommendations How to properly plant cherry seedlings in spring

Cherry is one of the most ancient fruit plants, loved by many for its wonderful berry taste and health benefits. It was known 2000 years ago; the Romans gave it the name “Curasunta fruit”.

Cherry is a capricious tree, it has many nuances in cultivation, and a gardener needs to know: when and how to plant cherries correctly, what varieties to choose and how to achieve abundant fruiting.

The sweet cherry is considered the closest relative of the cherry. Many people confuse cherries and cherries; only in 1491 did botanists determine that they are different cultures, although they belong to the same family, Cherry is often called “bird cherry”, and in Europe even Chekhov’s famous play is called “The Cherry Orchard”.

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders have bred and dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides more convenient fruit collection.

The color of the fruit varies depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the condition of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and guini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Cherry is self-sterile; for pollination it is necessary to plant 2-3 other varieties nearby. The Iput cherry is especially good for pollination.

The lifespan of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used for 15-20 years. Cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short fruiting period. There are 4,000 varieties of cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

When to plant: autumn or spring?

It is believed that the cherry is a tree that is more suitable for the south of the country, since it is very vulnerable to low temperatures and freezes slightly during the first permanent frosts, but nowadays, thanks to the efforts of breeders, the cultivation of cherries has become possible in other regions.

Cherry varieties have been created that correspond to different climatic conditions, are resistant to freezing and begin to bear fruit in required deadline for this region.

In the southern regions, cherries are planted mainly in autumn during leaf fall. Spring planting threatens the seedling with high temperatures already in March - April, dry winds and big amount pests. In the fall, the tree manages to take root well and by spring it is already a strong plant, especially since there are no severe frosts in the winter in the south.

For the Central regions of Russia, Siberia, and the Far East, it is recommended to plant cherries in the spring, so that over the summer the seedling becomes stronger and takes root. Spring for planting a tree has another undeniable advantage: throughout the summer, the gardener monitors the development and condition of the plant every day. He will be able to quickly take the necessary measures in case of drought or excess moisture, pest attack or plant disease.

Preparing berries for planting in spring

Variety selection

A mistake for many cherry lovers is choosing a variety that is not zoned for a given region. Gardeners are tempted beautiful descriptions, bright labels and do not take into account the survival rate of seedlings, the impact of climate and biological features cherries.

This is especially true in areas with harsh and long winters. Moreover, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account not only sub-zero winter temperatures; changes are very dangerous temperature regime in spring – recurrent frosts.

For the death of seedlings, a decrease in temperature after a thaw to -2°C is sufficient, if it does not high level winter hardiness. Experienced gardeners in this situation additionally use smoke from fires.

The yield can also be affected by the composition of the soil in a given region, the duration and intensity of daylight hours, and the presence of stable cold winds.

The result is small yields, freezing, low taste qualities, and sometimes the death of the plant.

central region	Siberia	Far East	Leningrad region, North-West region
Pink sunset	Tyutchevka	Sakhalinskaya	Leningradskaya black
And the way	Symphony	Rechitsa	Zorka
Italian	Revna	Ordynka	Revna
Beauty Zhukova	Bryansk pink	Bigarro Bulat	Bryanochka
Valery Chkalov	Fatezh	Francis	Bryansk pink
Teremoshka	Northern	Dragana yellow	Rechitsa
Revna	In memory of Astakhov	Ariadne	Teremoshka
Bryanochka	Kozlovskaya Michurina	Sweet pink	Fatezh

No special zoned varieties have been bred for the Leningrad region and the North-Western regions; gardeners successfully grow the most frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties, intended for the Urals and Siberia.

Now 2 varieties are being developed for this region - Seda and Yurga. A serious disadvantage for growing cherries in these areas is the cold winds from the Baltic Sea.

Planting dates for different regions

Requirements for soil and planting site

The soil for cherries should have a breathable structure, well heated, moderately moist, and slightly acidic.

Level is very important groundwater, since already at a level of 1.5 m from the surface of the earth gum begins to flow and the cherry dies. It is preferable to plant it on loams rich in nutrients; peat soils, clay, and sand are absolutely not suitable.

It is better to choose a planting site for cherries on the southern and southeastern slopes, well warmed by the sun. Lowlands from which water does not drain for a long time are not suitable for it; in addition, it must be protected from northern winds.

Soil preparation

When planting in the fall, the soil is completely dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, adding humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. m. meter.

When planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall by digging it up and adding fertilizer. Many gardeners prepare planting holes in the fall.

If the land on your site is not suitable for planting cherries, then this can be corrected. IN clay soil sand is added, and clay is added to the sandy one. Additionally they contribute soil mixture, which is sold in specialized stores, manure or humus. The soil is dug up and after a few years it is ready for planting cherries.

Light mode

Cherries are very demanding light mode. It feels good next to low-growing trees, forming a crown in the middle and upper tier for better absorption of sunlight.

Shading of cherries in orchards with tall fruit trees leads to the fact that fruiting switches to the upper branches, the fruits become smaller and their number decreases. For cherries, it is better to choose an open, sunny and warm place. For better crown lighting, annual pruning is used.

1. Cherries are contraindicated high humidity air, the fruits begin to crack and rot, but excessively high dryness leads to the fact that the leaves begin to fall off.
2. Cherry does not tolerate proximity to walnuts, rowan berries, pears, peaches, and black currants. Apple, plum and cherry trees are recommended as neighbors.
3. The distance between trees should be at least 4-5 meters, due to the highly developed root system of the surface.
4. Once every 5 years, the soil around the cherry tree must be limed.
5. Do not buy 3-year-old seedlings, they practically do not take root.

When planting cherries, care must be taken to protect them from birds. Otherwise, most of the berries will be pecked and not suitable for use. To do this, many people hang shiny, rustling foil ribbons or old computer disks on the tree. As a rule, this does not help, therefore, it is necessary to prepare a mesh net (50x50 mm) in advance and throw it over the cherries during the period of fruit ripening.

Preparing the planting hole

Early planting can destroy the seedling due to recurrent frosts, and delay can lead to prolonged survival due to high sun activity. Best time- mid-April, until the buds begin to awaken.

Preparation instructions:

1. The hole for planting cherries should be 80 cm wide by 100 cm and 70 cm deep; narrowing the hole downward is unacceptable. With these pit sizes root system should fit freely in it. A stake is driven in nearby - a support up to 80 cm high for tying the seedling.
2. The planting hole is filled with a nutrient mixture to 1/3 depth: 2 parts of the top layer of soil; 1 part humus; 1 part peat; 100g superphosphate; 50g potassium sulphide;

You can use another composition for the mixture: 2 buckets of compost, 1 kg of ash and 400 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers are not added to avoid root burns.

The hole is filled with the mixture 10 days before planting, mixed, the composition should settle.

Preparing a seedling before planting

The further development of the plant depends on the selection and preparation of the seedling:

1. The seedling must be grafted and have a strong trunk that dominates the side branches.
2. You should not buy a seedling with a forked trunk; under the weight of the fruits, they may break in the future.
3. It must have a developed root system without defects, with roots 15 cm long. If the root cut has brown tint, then this is a sign of frostbite.
4. A day before planting, the seedling is placed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
5. Before planting the seedling in the planting hole, cut off damaged roots.
6. Long roots are trimmed, since the root system must completely enter the planting hole.
7. Before planting, remove all leaves, otherwise the seedling will dehydrate.

Step-by-step planting instructions

1. Pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.
2. Place the seedling in the recess of the hole next to the support; the neck of the seedling should be 4-5 cm above ground level.
3. Cover the roots with soil.
4. Compact upper layer and secure the seedling to the support with soft tape. The figure-of-eight loop is made loose so as not to damage the tree bark.
5. Make a circular depression around the perimeter of the hole for watering.
6. Pour out 2 buckets of water, make sure that after the soil settles, the root collar is at ground level.
7. Trim the main trunk to 80 cm, and the side branches to 50 cm. This is necessary to form the correct crown.
8. It is advisable to plant cherries in cloudy weather.
9. Seedlings take root best when they are 1-2 years old.
10. To attract bees, mustard is planted next to the cherry tree; experienced gardeners spray the tree with a solution of water and honey.

Further care for cherries

Watering

Cherries require watering 3 times per season: in May during the period of growth of green mass, before flowering, in June, when the fruits begin to ripen, and before winter.

20 days before harvest, watering is stopped, otherwise the fruits will crack and rot. Watering is carried out to a depth of up to 40 cm, and pre-winter - up to 70-80 cm. In dry weather, the frequency of watering is increased. In the second half of summer, watering is not recommended, as this reduces the tree's frost resistance.

Top dressing

Feeding should not be applied in the first year, since everything necessary substances I received the seedling when planting. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during the 2nd year of tree growth. In the spring, 120 g of urea should be scattered around the perimeter of the tree trunk, embedded in moist soil.

In the fourth year of growth, the roots will extend beyond the trunk circle, so fertilizers are applied further from the trunk into the furrows made. In the spring, 120-200 g of urea are placed in moist soil, at the end of summer - 400 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.

The width of the trunk circle is increased to 1 meter in the second year, and 50 cm is added every year. Cherry trees respond well to additional fertilizing with ash.

Throughout the summer until autumn, weeding and loosening of the tree trunk circle is necessary, since cherries cannot stand being in the vicinity of weeds.

Crown formation, pruning

Cherries require mandatory annual pruning, otherwise there will be no good harvest. It comes in 3 types: formative - in spring, sanitary - in autumn, and rejuvenating when the tree ages. For all options, it is mandatory to remove branches 40 cm from the ground. When pruning, the cut areas are treated with garden varnish.

Formative pruning creates correct crown, this is especially important for young cherries. Before the buds open, shorten the main trunk and upper branches by 1/3 of the length, cut out the branches growing inward, leaving only those that grow at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the trunk from the side shoots.

This type of pruning is called cupping. She gives good lighting for the tree, stimulates fruiting and simplifies harvesting.

Sanitary pruning involves removing dried, broken, diseased branches.

Rejuvenating pruning helps cherries to restore productivity

Diseases of young cherries

Sweet cherries are quite resistant to diseases, but there are exceptions. Verticillium – fungal disease for many stone fruit crops, it is also dangerous for cherries.

First, the bark bursts, then the flowers fall off, the leaves turn yellow and gum appears on the trunk. You can use drugs such as Polychrome, Fundazol, Topsin. Clean the cracks and cover them with clay and 2% copper sulfate. But, as a rule, treatment is ineffective; the tree dies within a year.

During a cold and rainy spring, cherry trees may be damaged by bacteriosis (tree cancer). It is not possible to save cherries; scientists have not yet created a remedy against this disease. The tree must be cut down and burned.

Errors during cultivation

Error	Cause
Buds do not bloom in a timely manner	The root collar is buried during planting
Reset of ovary and foliage	Untimely watering during the growing season
Freezing of a tree	Incorrect variety selected for this region
There is no regular and abundant harvest	No annual pruning
Lack of fruits	No cross pollination
Cracking of trunk bark	Sunburn, the trunk was not whitewashed in spring and autumn
Gum discharge, tree death	Rocks, crushed stone in the soil, diseases
Yellowing, purplish coloring of leaves after planting	Watering cold water from wells
No side branching	The trunk was not trimmed during planting

Cherries are not only tasty, they are also very healthy.

It regulates cardiac activity, “fights” anemia, helps improve immunity and lowers blood sugar levels, improves vision and relieves irritability.

Women especially appreciate cherries for their properties to rejuvenate the skin, relieve swelling, and the ability to use them in various diets.

Growing cherries is a labor-intensive process, but the tree will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

To get a good harvest? Take advantage of the advice and instructions of experienced gardeners.

How to plant cherries correctly

It is better to grow cherries from young seedlings. Get good planting material from a seed is impossible. The fact is that the plant will not inherit its parental qualities. Planting a seedling must be done according to all the rules.

When to plant cherries?

In the northern regions, planting cherries in the fall must be done very carefully so that early frosts do not damage the tree. If possible, it is better to postpone work until spring. In the south of the country, seedlings can be planted in the fall. But all work must be completed before frost sets in. The seedling needs time to take root. The optimal time for planting is from the beginning to the end of October.

Where to plant cherries?

In order for the tree to develop well and bear fruit, it is important not only to take into account the timing of planting, but also the location of the seedling.

Cherry prefers illuminated areas that are protected from the wind by a wall or other buildings. In a place like this young tree will be well protected from frost.

It is important to pay attention to the composition of the soil in the area. The soil must be fertile and moisture-absorbing. But groundwater must lie deep.

It is best to allocate a place for cherries on a hill, where there is no risk of spring flooding. Various varieties of cherries and sweet cherries will be good neighbors for the plant.

How to choose a good cherry seedling

1. First of all, when buying a seedling, you need to pay attention to the roots. After all, the further growth of the tree will depend on the condition of the root system.

2. A good seedling is distinguished by the number of fibrous roots. The more there are, the better for the tree.

3. In addition, it is important to pay attention to the “tops” of the seedling. annual plant up to 80 cm high, and the height of a two-year-old tree reaches 1 meter.

4. It is not advisable to purchase seedlings that are too tall. They will take longer to take root, which means the first harvest will not come soon.

When transporting a seedling to the dacha, wrap the root system with damp burlap and place a bag over it.

Instructions for planting cherries in the fall with photos

All planting work begins with preparing the seedling and hole. First of all, equip the landing hole. This is done in advance, about a month in advance.

The dimensions of the planting pit for cherries must correspond to the root system and standards. The depth of the pit should be about 50 cm and the width – 70 cm. The bottom of the pit should be well drained. To do this, use gravel or broken bricks. Fertile soil mixed with humus is poured on top of this layer. Mineral fertilizers are not used when planting cherries. Oversupply nutrients harmful to the plant. The winter hardiness of seedlings decreases.

How to plant cherries

Immediately before planting, the seedling needs to be soaked. To do this, the roots are dipped in a bucket of water for 8 hours. It is possible to add root, which stimulates root formation. After which it is necessary to inspect the seedling and remove all damaged, dry roots. Next, minor pruning of healthy roots is carried out.

When starting to plant a seedling, adhere to the following rules:

1. The roots are straightened and the plant is installed in the hole.

2. Then they stick a wooden peg to which the tree will be attached.

3. The planting hole is covered with earth and compacted.

4. During planting, pay attention to the position of the root collar. It should be 5-7 cm above ground level.

5. A groove is formed along the edge of the tree trunk circle into which watering will be carried out.

6. Planting is completed with abundant watering, regardless of the weather.

7. After which the tree trunk circle is mulched.

Cherry trees are not pruned in the fall after planting, so as not to weaken the tree. The seedling is tied to an installed peg, trying not to squeeze the tree bark.

How to care for cherries after planting

Young cherry seedlings require special attention. Before planting, the tree is pruned, then in the spring lateral shoots will grow from dormant buds, which will later form a crop.

Proper pruning of the tree allows you to form the correct crown. In the second year after planting, autumn formative pruning is carried out. Up to 3 well-developed shoots are left on the tree, the rest are removed. The selected branches are shortened by 1/3 of the length, and the central conductor is cut off at a level of 1 meter from the lower tier. Every year the pruning is repeated, leaving two and then one strong shoot on the next tier, which can be seen in the photo.

Sweet cherries do not tolerate proximity to weeds, so they need regular weeding. From the moment of planting until late autumn, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the tree. Mulching will help solve the problem.

In order for the cherry to withstand the upcoming frosts well, it must be fertilized. The tree is fed with phosphorus fertilizers per 1 square meter. m. up to 50 g of the drug.

How to replant cherries in the fall

All gardeners know that to plant a garden you need to carefully select the location. But beginners may have difficulties: either the terrain was poorly chosen, or there is insufficient lighting. There is a need to replant the tree. Is it possible to replant cherries in the fall or will it destroy the tree? If you strictly follow all the rules, the tree will endure the procedure painlessly and quickly adapt to the new location.

1. Only young trees that are no more than 6 years old can be transplanted.

2. Preparations for the upcoming transplant begin 6 months before the procedure.

3. In the spring, a shallow ditch is dug around the tree and the roots are cut off. After which the groove is filled with humus. During the summer, cherries are well watered. By autumn, enough superficial roots should grow. This will allow the seedling to quickly take root in a new place.

4. Transplantation is carried out immediately after leaf fall, a month before the first frost.

5. When transplanting a formed tree, it is important to maintain its orientation relative to the cardinal points. This will reduce the risk of burns.

How to preserve cherry seedlings until spring

If for certain reasons it was not possible to plant cherries in the fall, then the seedling should be saved until spring. How to do it?

The seedling is buried in an elevated place, protected from the winds.

The groove for planting material is made 60 cm deep.

The trees are laid obliquely, with intervals of up to 25 cm between them.

The roots of the seedlings in the ditch should be directed north.

Sprinkle planting material better than light earth mixed with sawdust.

Juicy and tasty not only for children, but also for adults.

Every gardener strives to grow it on his plot. Using all the instructions given, a rich harvest will not be long in coming.

Whatever you say, who doesn’t love to eat delicious cherry fruits. And if previously it was believed that cherries were a southern crop, now a sufficient number of varieties have been bred that can be grown in the cooler conditions of the same Central Zone. Therefore, now more and more summer residents are trying to grow this stone fruit crop on their site. However, in order for cherries to bear fruit regularly and abundantly, they must be planted according to all the rules.

Next you will learn how to choose good seedling, find the most suitable place in the garden, prepare a planting hole and properly plant cherries in the spring, as well as what to do next in order to soon begin to receive decent harvests.

When to plant cherries in the spring, in what place: optimal timing

The optimal time for planting cherries in the garden in the spring is the period before the buds bloom on the tree, in other words, before it enters the growing season (i.e., the plant should still be dormant).

At the same time, an important condition for spring planting is positive air temperature, not only during the day (it should already be +5), but also at night.

You should not wait for the ground to completely thaw; it is very good to plant seedlings with an open root system immediately after the snow has melted, but the ground has not yet had time to warm up much.

Thus, it is highly advisable to have time to plant while the seedlings are still “in the dormant stage”, otherwise this will certainly negatively affect their survival rate and disrupt their natural development cycle.

As for the approximate timing, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region, spring planting of cherries is recommended from late March-April to early-mid May.

Advice! The best time to plant seedlings is cloudy and windless weather: early morning or late evening.

When is it better to plant - in spring or autumn?

Many gardeners believe that it is better to plant all fruit trees, including cherries, in the fall, because... During this period, the young seedling will intensively build up its root system, which means it will definitely not vegetate. Moreover, it is recommended to do this before the onset of stable frosts, i.e. you should have about a month (3-4 weeks) left.

Important! It's too late to plant seedlings in autumn period also not recommended, because The shoots must have time to ripen well in order to successfully survive the winter.

However, if, God forbid, you are late, and frosts are expected within 1-2 weeks, then it is better to play it safe and postpone planting cherries until spring (you can save the seedling by burying it in the garden or planting it in a container and putting it in the basement).

Thus, the approximate dates for planting cherries in the fall in different regions are the second half of September - the end of October.

Alternative opinion

In fairness, it should be noted that some gardeners, on the contrary, adhere to the old rule: pome crops(apple and pear trees) - better to plant in autumn, A stone fruits (cherries, cherries, plums, apricots) - in the spring.

The fact is that stone fruit cultures are considered less winter-hardy, therefore it is recommended to plant them in the spring, so that before winter they have time to take root well and get stronger.

However, if you are a resident of the South of Russia, then this is not important for you. It’s another matter if you are a representative of a region with a more severe climate (risky farming zones).

It is noteworthy that, among other things, planting cherries in spring has other advantages:

1. As the seedling grows during the spring-summer period, you will be able to quickly respond to possible problems(diseases, pests, lack of moisture) and immediately take the necessary measures to eliminate them.
2. The spring supply of moisture in the soil allows the root system to quickly adapt after planting and begin active growth.
3. You have the opportunity to prepare the site in advance, in the fall, so that the soil in the planting hole has time to settle by spring, which will help avoid deepening of the root collar.

Note! Cherry seedlings with a closed root system can be planted all year round- from April to October, except that it is not recommended to do this in the middle of summer, when it is very hot.

Video: at what time is it better to plant fruit seedlings? berry crops

Spring planting dates in different regions of the country

Each climate zone have their own weather conditions, so the timing of spring planting of cherries in different regions will certainly differ:

• Thus, in the south of Russia, cherry seedlings can be planted in open ground in the second half of March-early April.
• In the Middle Zone (Moscow region), cherries are planted no earlier than the second half of April.
• In Siberia and the Urals, spring planting of cherries is carried out in late April-early May.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

This can help you choose the optimal date for planting seedlings. moon calendar.

So, favorable days for spring planting of cherries in 2019, according to the lunar calendar, are:

• in April - 11-17; 21-26.

Yes, this is not a mistake; according to the lunar calendar, seedlings of fruit and berry crops are recommended to be planted only in April.

It’s a trivial thing, but it’s not always possible to get to the dacha on the appropriate days, so the main thing is not to plant cherries and any other crops on unfavorable dates according to the lunar calendar (and these are the periods of the new moon and full moon).

Unfavorable days, according to the lunar calendar for 2019, for planting cherry seedlings in spring are next dates:

• in March - 6, 7, 21;
• in April - 5, 19;
• in May - 5, 19;
• in June - 3, 4, 17.

According to lunar calendar, from the magazine “1000 tips for a summer resident.”

Step-by-step instructions for planting cherries in the spring: selection of seedlings, locations, preparation of the planting hole and direct planting

The main condition and main guarantee of a tree’s good survival rate is its correct landing, which includes choosing a suitable place for growing in the garden, as well as preparing a planting hole.

Video: how to plant cherries correctly

Selecting a seedling and preparing it for planting

It so happens that when purchasing any seedling you should always do choice in favor of zoned varieties, which have proven themselves well when grown in your climate zone.

Worth knowing! Seedlings can be either with an open root system (OCS) or with a closed one (in a container).

Of course, it is better for beginners to take seedlings in a container (although they are more expensive), and experienced gardeners can purchase them with OKS.

So, a high-quality cherry seedling must have the following characteristics:

• General appearance there must be a seedling healthy, without signs of wilting, damage by diseases or pests.
• The seedling itself must be no older than 2 years, since at this age seedlings adapt faster to a new place.
• Height there must be a seedling within 1-1.5 m: any deviation upward or downward indicates improper care or excessive application nitrogen fertilizers.

Another thing is that some sellers immediately sell cut seedlings, but this is rare.

• The seedling must have well developed root system(without any growths or new growths), that is, in addition to the main root, there should be several more lateral ones (the older the seedling, the more roots it has), the length of which can be about 20-25 cm, but they should not be overdried and broken.

By the way! Even if you buy a seedling with a closed root system, the lateral roots, as a rule, stick out from the container.

Advice! To check that the seedling really has a closed root system, you need to take it by the trunk and shake it. If it fits tightly, everything is fine, if not, then something is wrong here...

• At the bottom, on the trunk, you should clearly see vaccination site(joint of rootstock and scion), which will guarantee that this is a varietal tree and not a wild one.

As a rule, grafting is done by the method of budding with a bud (they also say “grafted with an eye”), less often with a cutting (i.e., copulation).

• It is also worth assessing the quality of the upper part of the trunk (grafted part): the wood must be mature and strong, without any mechanical damage, sunburn, frost damage and bark cracks. And you The trunk must be straight and not curved.

Note! If the bark on the trunk peels off in places without damaging its integrity, then this is a sign of improper storage of the seedling in winter, which led to its freezing.

• It is highly desirable that the seedling had no signs of the beginning of the growing season, i.e. was in the dormant stage, which means its buds should still be asleep (i.e. there should be no leaves on it).

However, seedlings with a closed root system (in containers) are often sold in the spring already in the growing season, which is quite normal. Therefore, in this case, you also need to carefully evaluate their appearance, especially the color of the leaves.

Video: how to choose cherry seedlings

Preparing for landing

If you want to properly prepare a seedling for planting, then you will need to know that immediately before planting, the roots of the cherry seedling should be washed to remove old soil, then dipped in clay mash, and then their tips should be renewed, slightly trimmed.

Important! This (renewing the tip of the roots by trimming them) should be done even more if the roots are too long, or you notice that there are damaged, diseased or broken (in this case they need to be trimmed to a healthy place).

Some gardeners recommend soaking the seedling in water (possibly with the addition of Kornevin) for a day or at least an hour. This will help restore biological processes in the roots and saturate them with moisture, especially if you see that the roots are slightly dry (and this should never be allowed).

Suitable place in the garden

Sweet cherry is a warm and light-loving stone fruit crop that will grow well only in open and well-lit warm areas of the garden.

Ideal option for planting cherries there will be a place that will be protected from the drying winter winds on the north side (this could be your country house, some outbuilding or fence), while the tree itself, Naturally, it should be placed on the south side (or at least on the southwest or west) so that it receives the maximum amount of sunlight during the day.

It would be an unforgivable mistake to plant cherries in lowlands or strongly wetlands.In other words, at the landing sitemoisture should not stagnate in the springwhen the snow melts. Otherwise, the plant’s root collar will simply get stuck and it will die.

Worth considering! Stone fruit crops (apricots, peaches, cherries, cherries) are crops with relatively “weak” root collars (compared to pome crops, such as apple trees), therefore, in the risky farming zone, it is recommended to plant them on hills.

The occurrence of groundwater in the area intended for planting should be at a level of 1.5 m from the ground surface.

If groundwater lies close, then you have no choice but to make an artificial embankment and plant a seedling on it.

Important! You should not plant cherries near large spreading trees (especially hazelnuts), as this always negatively affects their growth and productivity (if the seedling can grow and bear fruit normally at all).

At what distance to plant

Cherry, like any other fruit tree, needs its own individual space, so when planting it is worth maintaining a distance between neighboring crops.

As a rule, cherries are planted at a distance of 5-6 meters from other trees.

Note! Sweet cherries, like cherries, require cross-pollination.(since the crop is self-sterile), in other words, you need to plant at least 2, and preferably 3 different varieties nearby (the same varieties are not suitable for pollination), and they must have the same flowering period.

Alternatively, you can plant cherries next to the cherry(excellent pollinator) or near the neighbor's tree.

By the way! There are also self-fertile varieties that do not require pollination, but for better pollination it is still better to have another variety of sweet cherry or cherry nearby.

Remember! The closer you plant trees, the more difficult it will be for you to control their crown in the future, in other words, you will need regular and mandatory pruning, including summer pruning.

Required soil

Soil differs from soil to soil, so loamy (loam) and sandy loam soil, as well as light black soil, are perfect for growing cherries.

The soil must be sufficient fertile, light and loose(it is good to pass water and air to the roots) and have slightly acidic, close to neutral, acidity level.

Worth knowing! All stone fruits like non-acidic soils and will grow better in alkaline soils (7-7.5 pH) than even relatively acidic ones (5.5 pH).

Of course less a good option for planting cherries (and almost all fruit trees) is sandy and clay soil.

Important! When planting a seedling in excessively sandy soil, you should add a little clay and more compost to it, and sand to clayey soil, this will help balance the composition of the soil.

Advice! In cold and harsh climates, and also if the soil is heavy, or the area is very waterlogged and groundwater lies very close, then cherries (like any other fruit trees) are recommended to be planted on gentle hills(“according to Zhelezov”).

Preparing a planting hole: when to dig and what size (depth)

It would not be superfluous to note that the planting hole for spring planting of cherries must be prepared in advance. It is best to do this in the fall or at least 1-2 weeks before planting the seedling. During this time, the soil will have time to settle to the desired level.

Important! When digging a planting hole, the top layer of soil is thrown aside for further use.

Width (diameter) and depth of the planting hole for cherries should be within 50-80 cm. Moreover, the walls of the recess should not narrow downward; it is better to make them vertical.

By the way! As a rule, on average they dig a hole 60 by 60 cm.

And here is the planting hole for the seedling with closed root system they do it simply 2-3 times larger than the container itself.

If necessary, it is immediately placed on the bottom drainage layer 5-15 cm from broken bricks or small stones (it is optimal to use lime or chalk crushed stone, which contains a lot of calcium and which deoxidizes the soil = lowers its acidity), and then the prepared nutrient mixture is poured.

Important! If you have to plant in clay soil, then, in addition to the obligatory drainage layer, you also need to dig the deepest possible hole.

How to prepare a nutrient mixture (substrate) or how to fill a planting hole

So that the cherry can easily adapt to a new place and strengthen itself for further growth, when planting it is recommended to fill the planting hole nutrient substrate, in other words, add the entire complex of macro- and partly microelements.

To do this, the planting hole is filled with a specially prepared soil mixture (which is thoroughly mixed to a uniform consistency), which may include the following components (mineral and organic fertilizers):

• all top fertile soil (top 20-30 cm) that you removed when digging the hole;
• a bucket (8-9 kg) of good humus or compost;

Additionally:

a bucket (8-9 kg) of non-acidic peat (either optional or if you have sandy soil);

a bucket (8-9 kg) of sand (if you have relatively heavy soil);

• a glass and a half (300-400 grams) of superphosphate or 400-500 grams of bone meal (an organic analogue of phosphorus fertilizer);
• half or a glass of potassium sulfate (100-200 grams) or two or three glasses (200-300 grams) wood ash(organic analogue of potassium fertilizer).

Or, instead of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, simply use 300-400 grams of nitroammophoska (it contains 16% nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or, even better, diammophoska.

Worth knowing! When planting a tree (even in spring), you do not need to specifically add nitrogen fertilizers (it’s a different matter if it is a complex fertilizer), since they stimulate the growth of the above-ground part to the detriment of the development of the root system (especially when planting in the northern regions).

Important! However, many knowledgeable gardeners do not recommend putting mineral fertilizers into the planting hole, but applying them in the future as fertilizing.

After filling the hole with nutrient substrate, it is necessary to drive a wooden peg, which will subsequently serve as a support for the young seedling.

Direct planting of seedlings

Step-by-step instruction for spring planting of cherry seedlings in open ground:

• Fill the planting hole in advance fertile soil, leaving a depression the size of the root system of the seedling.

• If you are planting a seedling with an open root system (ORS), then you need to place a small mound in the center of the planting hole.

But if you are planting a seedling with a closed root system (ZRS), then you do not need to make any mounds, but simply plant it in a prepared planting hole without disturbing the earth.

• Drive in a wooden support or peg (if you haven't done this beforehand).

If you do not tie a young seedling to a peg, then when the leaves grow on it, then due to the high windage, strong winds will shake the trunk and tear off the young roots.

• Place the seedling in the center of the mound and spread the roots down along its (mound) sides (the roots should under no circumstances bend or stick up!).

Important! If you have a seedling that has been grafted with an eye (budding), then the budding site (eye = new shoot that has grown from the graft) should face north, and the cut site should face south.

• Cover with soil, shaking the seedling while doing so to eliminate any voids between the roots.
• Compact (compact) the soil, starting from the edges at the base of the seedling.

At the same time, do not confuse the root collar (the place where the first root leaves the trunk) with the graft, which is located higher - on the trunk) and should be located 3-5 cm (you can just put 2-3 fingers) above the soil surface. After the tree settles in loose soil, the root collar will in any case return to its normal position.

Attention! But if you bury the root collar, the tree will grow poorly and gradually die (because the root collar will dry out). On the contrary, plant it too high, and the roots of the seedling will be exposed and may simply dry out in the summer heat or freeze in winter.

• Next, you need to make a hole (roller) along the diameter (perimeter) of the tree trunk circle with a height of 5-10 cm.
• Pour plenty of water, pouring out at least 2-3 buckets (pour out gradually - wait for it to be absorbed and add more).
• Tie the seedling to the prepared support with soft twine and secure it in the correct position.

• Level the roller, loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle and mulch it with peat, humus or compost.

Mulch will help prevent roots from drying out and excessive moisture evaporation.

Note! Mulch should not be placed close to the trunk of the seedling, as this can cause the bark to become warm and, consequently, cause the development of fungal diseases.

In any case, the grafting site should be above the mulch.

Video: planting cherries in spring

Rules for further care of cherries after spring planting

It is advisable immediately after planting a cherry seedling in mandatory trim to level the root system with the above-ground part (this is done for a kind of “reanimation” of the seedling after planting, since any planting and replanting is a severe trauma and stress for the plant).

Video: planting cherries and initial pruning, as well as tips for buying a seedling

What should definitely be taken into account is the fact that the main condition for successful rooting of cherries is a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil. Therefore, if the weather is dry, then after planting it is necessary to carry out timely and regular watering s (1-2 times a week), pouring out 2-3 buckets of water. In the future, watering will need to be carried out as needed, depending on weather conditions (in spring and autumn you can water 2-3 times a month, and in hot and dry periods - once a week). And then (after each watering), if you have not mulched the tree trunk circle, be sure to loosen the soil at the base to improve oxygen access to the roots. Also, simultaneously with loosening, you can weed the tree trunk circle to remove weeds.

By the way! You can determine that the earthen ball has dried out and the cherry tree urgently needs watering in the following way: dig a hole as deep as a shovel, take a handful of earth from the bottom, if it is dry, then water it urgently.

Advice! Either make a new hole every year, or initially dig not very deep, so that moisture does not accumulate in it during the winter-early spring period and the root collar does not get wet.

Additional fertilizing this year it will no longer be needed, since we have already provided all the necessary nutrition during planting, and it should be enough for the next couple of years.

Of course, you need to be careful track about the condition of your tree, so that suddenly not attacked by any pests or dangerous diseases.

The main scourge (the most dangerous and annoying disease) that often affects cherries (as well as other stone fruits) is coccomycosis

It pays to be prepared! Various birds really love to eat cherries, so you should definitely install at least or hang shiny ribbons and CDs directly on the tree.

Thus, strict adherence to the rules and recommendations for spring planting of cherries is a guarantee that the stone fruit crop quickly adapts to a new place, takes root more easily and grows. As a result, in a few years it will be possible to harvest your fruit from this tree.

Video: how to properly plant and care for cherries

Cherries are a favorite delicacy of children and adults. But those who want to enjoy good harvest own production must work very carefully. Strict compliance only standard requirements allows you to eliminate all sorts of problems when planting and growing garden crops.

Landing dates

Sweet cherries love warmth, so they are recommended middle lane plant it in the spring. Then there will be less chance of incidents in the event of a sudden encounter with cold weather. Only in regions with a milder climate is planting cherries in the autumn months permissible. But even in this case, you need to be vigilant.

If you plant plants after frosts have been established and the top soil layer has been steadily cooled, there will simply be no chance of success.

Yet experienced gardeners It’s worth taking the risk and planting a tree from mid-September to the last days of October. Since the seedlings are dormant at this time, they will not produce flowers or leaves. All efforts will be concentrated as much as possible on engraftment. If suddenly it was not possible to plant a seedling in free soil before November, all that remains is to dig it in and fully plant it in the spring. Autumn planting also has such a clear advantage as a reduction in prices in retail chains.

In central Russia, cherries are planted from late March to mid-April. Ural and Siberian gardeners will have to wait until May. On Far East V good year can also be used last days April. On the shores of the Baltic Sea, planting is also recommended no earlier than April 23-25. But the south is an exception to the rule; Krasnodar and Rostov gardeners should plant cherries until about halfway through autumn.

Choosing a place

Having figured out the timing of planting cherries, you need to find out where exactly they should be planted. The heat-loving crop should be placed in a sunny place without a single shade. Both a slight elevation and a slope with a slight slope are allowed. But in both cases, the place should be such that drafts, especially cold winds from the north, do not occur. If the area is as flat as a table, you can create an artificial embankment using a soil bank 0.4-0.5 m in height.

The best results are achieved by many summer residents when planting close to the southern walls of houses. As for the soil, it is recommended to use relatively moist soil with good fertility; it is also possible to plant cherries on light soil that can warm up well and allow air to pass through. But heavy soils made of clay and peat are not suitable in principle. In such conditions, instead of fully developing, the tree will be forced to continuously fight for survival.

A high rise in groundwater is unacceptable, since stagnation of liquid near the root has an extremely detrimental effect on the fruit crop.

How to plant?

In any step by step guide on the cultivation of cherries it is indicated that in the central part of Russia, and even more so in places with a harsher climate, planting should be done only in the spring. This not only allows the plant to become stronger, but also gives the gardener an additional chance to control the development of the tree. It is imperative to choose only those varieties that are officially zoned for a specific area. All other types, no matter how they are praised in reviews, no matter what beautiful pictures neither were listed on the labels - they do not deserve attention.

It is critical for cherry seedlings to reduce the air temperature to -2 degrees. Particularly serious consequences can occur when such a cold snap occurs abruptly after a thaw, and the plants are not sufficiently resistant to winter. In such a situation, it is recommended to support cherry plantations with smoke from fires.

Before planting this crop, you need to thoroughly think through such subtleties as:

• soil structure;
• duration of lighting during the day and its power;
• wind rose in the area.

There are no special adapted varieties for the environs of St. Petersburg and other northwestern regions of Russia. But the experience of gardeners shows that the Ural and Siberian varieties that are most resistant to cold and other unfavorable conditions are excellent. Before planting, the soil must be completely dug up within 14-20 days. Additionally, you can enhance its fertile properties by introducing 10 kg of humus per 1 m2. If planting is planned in the spring, then both preparations are done in the fall, sometimes even tree holes are prepared in advance.

Correction of the clay mass of the soil is carried out with sand. This improvement is carried out for several years in a row, only then can cherries be planted.

• walnut;
• peach;
• pears;
• rowan;
• black currant.

The gap between trees should be at least 4 m, because the root system is not only developed, but lies directly at the surface. There is no point in purchasing seedlings of the third year of development; they will not take root anyway. Very important point- protection from birds. A common recommendation from gardeners is to use aluminum foil tape or scrap laser discs. But such methods do not work effectively enough. It is much better to form a grid with square cells of 5x5 cm in advance. It is thrown over the cherries when the fruits ripen. It is best to wait for a stable warming up of +5 degrees for landing. It would also be a good idea to ensure that a decent supply of moisture remains in the ground.

Usually they choose mid-April, but the buds should not yet have time to open. Narrowing of planting holes in the lower part is categorically unacceptable. The size of the excavation is selected in such a way as to guarantee the free location of the root complex. The stake to hold the seedling should have a height of up to 0.8 m.

Saturation of the pit in the lower third is carried out by a combination of:

• 2 shares of the upper earth mass;
• 1 share of humus;
• 1 share of peat.

To improve the practical characteristics of the mixture, it is practiced to add 0.1 kg of superphosphate and 0.05 kg of potassium sulphide. An alternative would be to mix 20 kg of compost with 1 kg of wood ash and 0.4 kg of superphosphate. But the use of nitrogen fertilizers is equally unacceptable; they can cause burns on the roots. The prepared compositions are laid out in pits 10 days before planting and made as homogeneous as possible, then wait until the mass settles. When selecting a seedling, they certainly evaluate the strength of its trunk, which should dominate the branches running to the side.

No matter what sellers and “experts” say, it is stupid to buy a seedling with a trunk split in two. Covered with heavy fruits, it often breaks. It is useful to look at a cut of the root: a brown tint indicates freezing. To speed up the work of the root complex after planting, you need to place the seedling in the last 24 hours before planting in a bucket filled with water.

It is imperative to get rid of all deformed roots, as well as excessively long ones - they will interfere with penetration.

Even before planting, it is worth removing any leaves. No matter how beautiful it is, the bad thing is that the seedling may lose water. The planting itself begins by saturating the hole with a bucket of liquid. Having placed the seedling in a recess near the support, its neck is raised 40-50 mm above the soil. The roots must be covered with soil. The layer is compacted and the plant is secured in place with adhesive tape, making a knot in the shape of a figure 8, taking care that the bark is not broken.

By outside a circular groove is prepared in the pit; it will help to fully water the cherries. Next, pour 20 liters of water, and when the soil settles, check whether the root neck remains on the surface. The main trunk is cut to 0.8 m, while the side branches need to be shortened to 0.5 m. Only under this condition will it be possible to make a normal crown. For planting cherries, it is recommended to choose a cloudy, but not damp day.

Care

The tree needs to be watered 3 times during the growing season. The first time this is done is in May, when the green mass is rapidly developing. Watering is carried out as soon as flowering approaches, but has not yet begun. The second time the cherries need to be supplied with liquid before the fruits ripen in June. And the third time - before the start of winter, so that the plant can better survive the negative period for itself. You need to stop watering 20 days before picking the berries. Otherwise, they will be covered with cracks and may even rot.

Water should be poured to a depth of 400 mm. But before winter you need to shed the soil by 700-800 mm. Against the backdrop of drought, of course, the intensity of moistening will have to be increased. From mid-July to the end of August, adding water only interferes with cherries. They will not affect cultivation, but will reduce susceptibility to cold weather. Feeding is not practiced for the first year, because when the right technology the seedling initially received everything it needed at the time of planting, and if it was planted incorrectly, the additives are useless.

Only in the second season of life does it become time to introduce nitrogen-based fertilizers. This is most often done using urea. It is scattered along the outer border of a circle located near the trunk. In order for the fertilizer to achieve its purpose and not just be used, you will have to embed it a little into the ground. The amount of urea used is 0.12 kg, and you need to make sure that the soil is not dry.

In the fourth year of life, the roots leave the circle near the trunk. At this moment, you need to introduce fertilizers into special furrows. In the spring, you need to add 0.1 kg of urea every year. When summer comes to an end, the same furrows are saturated with 0.1 kg of potassium sulfate and 0.4 kg of superphosphate. In the second year, the tree trunk circle needs to be grown to 1 m; in the future, it adds 0.5 m annually.

It is recommended to additionally feed the cherry with ash; in any case, it will react favorably to such an additive. In addition to feeding with useful substances, it is important to think about not being absorbed by “rivals”. There is absolutely no place for weeds in the tree trunk circle; they must be removed until the beginning of autumn. Even the strongest and most resistant varieties of cherries are easily suppressed by weeds. And therefore, the reluctance to weed the land closest to the tree can ruin even a very good start.

Cherries must be pruned in the summer, otherwise there is simply no chance of a good harvest. In addition to summer pruning, spring pruning is also practiced, which is responsible for the formation of the top of the tree. As necessary, when the cherry becomes old, a rejuvenating cut is carried out. In all three cases, it is necessary to remove branches located below 0.4 m from the ground.

Each cut site should be covered with garden varnish.

Formative pruning is critical for young trees. Before the buds bloom, you need to have time to shorten the main trunk and upper branches by 1/3 in length. Be sure to remove all branches that grow inward. Side shoots need to be left only when they are located at 45 degrees to the trunk. This pattern is called cupping.

Its benefits are:

• improving tree lighting;
• forced fruit formation;
• facilitating harvesting.

If the cherries do not ripen on time or develop somehow incorrectly, the reason is almost always that farmers are bad at caring for them. Thus, buds that do not bloom in due time usually indicate the deepening of the root collar during planting. The tree sheds its leaves and gets rid of its ovaries due to untimely watering during the growing season. Cherries freeze out solely because a mistake was made with the choice of variety. Only with systematic pruning, carried out at least once a year, can a uniform harvest be obtained.

When there are ovaries, but no fruits are formed, the reason is most likely the lack of cross-pollination. The expiration of gum and the subsequent death of cherries are provoked by planting on rocky soil and the presence of crushed stone in the soil. Also, such manifestations can be associated with diseases. Watering plants with cold well water can cause the leaves to turn yellow or purple. And when the trunk is not cut off during planting, the possibility of lateral branching is lost.

Full care of cherries in the middle zone involves liming the soil every 3-4 years. To do this, lime is introduced as early as possible in the spring; its concentration on light soil is limited to 0.35 kg per 1 sq. m. m. If the soil is heavy and dense, it must be fed with twice as much lime. It is scattered under the trees and then buried deep, digging up the soil to 0.2 m. This practice improves the absorption of nutrients and helps the formation of seeds.

Most cherries, with normal care, grow well in the first four years. Sometimes even the annual growth can be 1.2 m. But the problem is that this young part does not have time to take shape and mature to the end. And when even relatively mild frosts set in, it turns out to be defenseless against them. Summer pinching of shoots that have reached a length of 0.6-0.8 m helps prevent this development of events. When pruning, new shoots appear faster, which will definitely have time to become covered with a protective layer before winter.

In addition to the strengthening effect, this measure also helps to improve the decorative properties of the crop. Cherry will have lush crown, which is initially not typical for this plant. As soon as the harvest is harvested, it is necessary to systematically weed the ground under the crown. Any weed, any fallen leaf or fruit must be collected and removed outside the garden boundary. Farmers who do not take care of such matters very often encounter trees damaged by rot.

Well-prepared cherries for winter can survive cold even at -30 degrees. But when warm periods occur, accompanied by melting snow, you need to be prepared. The branches will have to be manually shaken off the snow mass. Otherwise, they may break or even collapse completely. Any gardener understands why this is dangerous for the plant without further explanation.

In the liming process, in addition to fluff lime, ash and chalk can be used. If the ground is made of sandy mass, dolomite flour can be used. The exact concentration of the additive is calculated individually, focusing on the general acidity of the soil.

The combination of liming with additives is unacceptable:

• nitrogen mixtures;
• organic fertilizers;
• ammophos;
• superphosphate;
• ammonium nitrate.

The central conductor is deliberately limited above the tops of the skeletal branches. The maximum lift here is allowed no more than 150 mm. In the second year, the branches of the skeleton need to be cut to the outer bud. Most often, the first tier is limited to three shoots. Next, lateral and simply too elongated shoots can be cut off so that exposure does not occur.

The optimal composition of the second tier is 2 branches. And the third (final) logically completes the formation of the crown with one of its branches. Later, each skeletal branch shoots sideways. If one of them is not needed to create a crown, it is reduced to 0.3 m. On two-year and three-year-old cherries in May, you need to bend the branches horizontally using different kinds loads.

This technique promotes accelerated formation of buds, from which fruits will then appear. But bending the branches by the upper parts is strictly unacceptable. Such a mistake will lead to the departure of all the fruitful force into new shoots. With the onset of autumn, any weight or spacer is usually removed. Almost always, the cherry tree manages to adapt itself to the desired configuration and does not need support.

Trees that bear fruit should not form. Branches on them are cut only for health purposes and for thinning. First of all, shoots growing deep into the crown are removed. Every dry and diseased branch should be cut off without forming stumps. It is recommended to stop on grafted cherries root shoots at the base.

September supplementation with potassium and phosphorus helps reduce sensitivity to cold. For young trees, even this measure, together with energizing watering, may not be enough. Then shelters are formed from old bags or coniferous spruce branches. From artificial materials It’s worth giving up completely, because under them the cherries may become soggy.

Covering the roots is effectively provided by compost or peat, which is used as mulch.

Sprinkling provides protection against the return of frost. It can be used with both sprinklers and stationary watering systems. If all this is not available, use a simple hose. It's important to get ahead negative change weather for several hours. If the trunk is covered with cracks running in the longitudinal direction, frost damage is evident. The bark damaged by it is carefully removed, but not all over the circle, as this will end in the death of the cherry.

Frost damage is disinfected with copper sulfate at a concentration of 3%. After this, garden varnish is used. The damaged area is filled with cement. To protect from the aggressive sun, the trunks and lower points of the skeletal branches are whitened. Surrounding the cherry tree trunk with spruce branches also helps a lot.

Reproduction

Attempts to propagate cherries using seed methods give poorly predictable results. Such trees, by definition, will not retain the characteristics characteristic of their “parents”. Development will continue and, most likely, quite good speed will be achieved. But the final result will become clear only in the third or fourth year. It is not recommended to get carried away with cuttings: even with the strictest adherence to technology, 95% of cuttings cannot take root. Therefore, most often cherries reproduce by grafting.

The following varieties are considered optimal rootstocks:

• “Pink bottle”;
• "Vladimirskaya";
• "Ruby";
• "VTs-13";
• "VSL-2".

You need to prepare the cuttings in the fall; for preservation they use a snow patch, and if not available, a simple refrigerator. Considering the obligatory cross-pollination of cherries, you need to prepare cuttings from 2 or 3 varieties. For grafting, the preferred scheme is modified copulation, which is carried out in early spring. You just need to wait until the buds on the one-year-old rootstock become tight. If the rootstock develops poorly or is replanted in the spring, you need to postpone the procedure until the summer and choose a budding scheme.

Propagation by seeds should be chosen either by beginners or by constantly busy gardeners who always lack time. The seeds can be planted from spring to autumn inclusive, you just need to separate them from the pulp. When planting in spring, it requires going through a ripening stage after harvesting. To do this, before planting, the seed material is stored in moistened sand or sawdust for 60-90 days. The heat range is maintained at 14-18 degrees; before such preparation begins, the bones must be in cold water approximately 96 hours.

When the seeds are stored, the humidity of the environment will have to be controlled. For the 3rd month, the bones are transferred to the basement, where the temperature is no higher than 6 degrees Celsius. In this basement they germinate, once this is achieved, the cherry material is placed on snow or ice. Seedlings prepared using this method can be moved to free soil immediately upon the arrival of spring. If you want to plant cherry seeds in the fall, the approach should be slightly different.

Then the seeds are first thoroughly washed and disinfected in an unsaturated solution of potassium permanganate. After this treatment, they are also placed in moistened substrates (this time the choice arises between moss and sawdust). Prepared seed can be planted from the first days of October. More precise dates are chosen taking into account the actual weather and readiness for work. Planting is done to a depth of 50 mm, while the gap from one hole to another should be from 200 to 250 mm.

No more than 5 cherry seeds are planted on each bed.

When it becomes clear which seeds survived the winter and sprouted, only the most developed ones are left among the shoots in order to obtain an optimal result. If grafting is nevertheless chosen, wild fruit trees of the second year of life act as the basis. This technique allows you to achieve success with 100% probability and not rely on Lucky case. The grafting itself is carried out in early March, since it is very important to get ahead of the start of the movement of sap in the shoots. It is advisable to use paraffin to prevent the cuttings from drying out too quickly. An alternative is to place them in film until buds form.

Diseases and pests

Even after carefully selecting the site and variety, as well as planting according to all the rules, sometimes gardeners discover that the cherries dry out or are damaged in some other way. This means that it has been attacked by pests or infected with infectious diseases. Among diseases, bacteriosis is especially dangerous - it is not without reason that it is also called bacterial cancer. Any organs of the tree can be affected, starting from the age of three. Infection is manifested by gum leaking from the cankers on the branches.

Foliage is rarely affected, mainly at the advanced stages of the disease, when it covers more and more new areas. Dying off, by half the season the diseased parts disappear completely. If bacteriosis affects green berries, they become covered with brown spots, gradually merging into one large black depression. Similar-looking ulcers are also found on the kidneys. It doesn’t matter whether a particular bud survives until spring or not, it will still die after opening.

The danger of bacteriosis is highest when a damp, humid spring sets in. Recognize in which kidneys and vessels the infection overwinters, by their appearance it is forbidden. So far, agronomists do not know how to fight bacterial cancer of cherries. There is only a recommendation to thoroughly feed the plants with nitrogen and water them sparingly, without fanaticism. If a plant dies from this disease, all that remains is to disinfect the soil, take the required pause and try to breed another, more resistant variety.

Of the fungal infections, the most serious challenge for gardeners is coccomycosis. In the first years, it destroys the crop, and gradually the entire plant dies. The infection manifests itself in the summer fall of leaves; the cherry tree cannot receive nutrition through photosynthesis. The only possible prevention is treatment with copper sulfate at the time of swelling of the kidneys and exposure Bordeaux mixture when pecking the petals.

It is very bad when cherries are affected by rot, since even subtle manifestations of the disorder make the crop useless for food purposes.

Reproduction of spores can occur rapidly, sometimes 3-5 hours are enough for the complete destruction of the crop. But infection can be prevented by avoiding damage to the skin of the berries. Therefore, a very important point is to protect the cherries from birds and to deal with harmful insects in a timely manner. Even if they slightly damage the integrity of the fruit, rot will immediately strike a crushing blow. The fight against cluster sporasis is also carried out by preventing damage.

Moniliosis is also called gray mold; it is also a fungal disorder. Insufficiently experienced farmers may confuse the initial manifestations of the disease with sunburn. Whatever is struck will inevitably die. All that remains is to cut off the infected areas of the branches plus the apparently healthy area by at least 100 mm and burn it all. The cut is disinfected in this way: to prevent infection with moniliosis, the trees are treated with copper compounds in advance.

Powdery mildew rarely attacks cherries during the fruiting phase, but if trees are taken from cuttings, it can collapse suddenly. The peculiarity of the external picture of the disease is explained by the name, but if the disease is advanced, the leaves dry out and the coating becomes grayer. There are many drugs that can be bought in stores. Adherents of natural farming can use potassium permanganate or an infusion of rotted hay. But the effectiveness of such methods in the advanced phase of the disease is too low.

By following all the recommendations described above, and even choosing the right pollinator varieties, you can still encounter serious problems when growing cherries. Therefore, other subtleties need to be taken into account. So, the optimal place for a tree is the south, southeast and southwest relative to the nearest buildings or large fences. It should be taken into account that cherries can also act as a pollinator. But here it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of their relationship and get acquainted with special literature on this subject. Water-recharging irrigation implies a consumption of 50-60 liters of water per 1 m2.

Help to fight birds:

• plastic bags;
• rotating structures;
• ultrasonic systems;
• mesh made of agricultural fiber that allows sunlight to pass through.

In the fall, potassium fertilizers should be introduced at the time of digging. The time for phosphorus compounds (also introduced in the fall) comes no earlier than the fruits begin to form. When the plant reaches full fruiting, fertilizing with organic matter is carried out in a volume of 8-10 kg per 1 sq. m. August fertilizing with nitrogen is unacceptable. It can be applied both in dry and liquid form.

It’s good if the recharge is synchronized with loosening the soil.

To learn how to plant cherries, see the following video.

Several decades ago, residents of cold regions enjoyed only imported cherries. Thanks to the work of breeders, today almost throughout the entire territory of our country you can taste juicy fruits plucked directly from the tree. By choosing the right variety and properly caring for the tree, you will provide your family with fresh, healthy berries.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Choosing a place to plant cherries

When choosing a place to plant a tree, keep in mind that cherries do not like cold winds. Try to place the seedlings where northern air currents do not reach. A southern slope of a gentle hill, or an area blocked from the north by buildings and fences, is suitable. Do not plant the tree in a closed, shaded space - cherries need sunlight.

Pay attention to the soil: it should be light and crumbly, absorb moisture well, but not become waterlogged. The best option- light loams and sandy loams with a deep groundwater level. If you place cherries on heavy soils, in the fall add rotted manure to a depth of at least 1 meter under the planned planting site.

Cherries require cross-pollination. If you don’t already have these trees, look for a place where you can plant at least 2-3 seedlings of different varieties. The distance between them is at least 3 meters. Plant the seedlings next to the early cherry tree, which will bloom at the same time as the cherry tree.

Preparing the soil for planting cherries

In the south, the homeland of cherries, planting and caring for them is easier. Growing a tree in the northern regions has its own subtleties. If in a warm area both spring and autumn planting, then in cold areas cherries are planted only in the spring, so that during the short summer period the tree has time to take root and strengthen before the onset of cold weather.

Start preparing the site for spring planting in the fall. Dig a hole with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 0.8 m. If the soil in the area is clay, pour two buckets of sand at the bottom to drain excess moisture. Add two buckets of clay to the sandy soil, which will prevent all the water from going into the deeper layers and keep the soil moist. Add 2 buckets of humus to the dug fertile layer, loosen the bottom and pour the prepared mixture there. In this form, the place for the seedling remains for the winter. During this time, nutrients will penetrate the soil, make the lower layers of the soil fertile, and stimulate the root system to grow deeper.

In the spring, add 300 g of superphosphate, 100 g of sodium sulfate and 1 kg of ash to the loose soil at the bottom of the hole and mix. When planting cherries, it is better not to add fertilizers than to replant them. In too nutritious soil, by autumn the tree produces strong but immature growths that cannot withstand the frosty winter.

Do not plant cherries on hills where the tree is exposed to all winds. Cherry does not tolerate buried places. Give the plant a slight elevation: before digging a hole, make a mound about 50 cm high.

Yulia Petrichenko, expert

Preparation of planting material

When buying seedlings, ask about the flowering time. If you plant two trees, one of which blooms early and the other late, cross-pollination will not happen. There will be no berries at all, or the harvest will be meager.

Do not buy cherries three years old or older - they do not take root well. Inspect the seedlings. Two-year-old trees should have 3-4 skeletal branches, a trunk with a diameter of 16 mm or thicker with smooth, clean bark. Do not take a seedling with broken buds - the tree will have nothing to form new shoots from. Pay special attention to the root: it should be well developed, without damage, growths or dry roots. If the journey home takes a long time and the tree dries out, trim the roots, place in water, and leave for 10 hours.

In the spring, plant cherry seeds. Please note that trees grown from seeds often have small, tasteless berries. These seedlings may only be needed by gardeners who want to grow a rootstock themselves and then graft cuttings of the desired variety onto it. As soon as the snow melts, make grooves 5 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from one another. Sow the seeds densely in them. Wait for germination, remove excess seedlings, leaving 3-4 cm between plants.

Spring planting of cherries

Planting cherries in spring is advisable in early dates until the kidneys woke up. In the fall, you have already prepared a hole, now strengthen a peg in it, to which the seedling will be tied. Check the depth: if the tree sits too low, add soil under the roots. The grafting site should be 5 cm above the ground, otherwise it will be covered with soil when the soil settles.

Inspect the roots, cut off any dry or damaged ones, and dip them in a clay mash. Place the tree in the hole, straighten the roots, point them down, and cover with soil. Lightly compact each layer of soil, making sure that the seedling does not lean to the side. Tie the cherry tree to a stake to prevent it from being swayed by the wind.

After you have planted and strengthened the tree, make a hole around the trunk and place an earthen roller around the edges. Water the tree trunk well, wait until the water is absorbed into the ground, and mulch the soil with peat.

Spring pruning of seedlings

Early planting is necessary not only so that the tree takes root well, but also in order to have time to prune the branches. This procedure is especially important if the roots of the cherry tree are poorly developed or cut short: they are not able to provide enough nutrition for a dense crown. Do this work until the buds swell; If you plant a tree later, reschedule pruning until next spring.

For seedlings two years old and older, shorten the branches. The lowest one should be about half a meter long, trim the rest to match it. Form a crown: leave 4-5 branches for the first tier, and 2-3 for the second. If there are not enough shoots, or they are located on one side, shorten them to 20 cm, the tree will begin to produce new shoots.

Spring cherry care

Over the summer, the seedlings grew stronger and overwintered well. What kind of care is needed for cherry trees in the spring of this and next years so that your pets develop properly and soon please you with a wonderful harvest? A lot of work needs to be done before summer, so don't waste time.

Cherry feeding

If you have prepared the planting hole well, the supply of nutrients will last for several years, and don’t bother with fertilizing yet. After three years, apply 80 g of urea under the trees every spring. Apply a nutrient composition to mature trees: take a bucket of manure and 1 kg of ash for 6 buckets of water. Do not pour the solution under the tree trunk; the roots located there do not absorb fertilizers, and they will sink into the ground uselessly. Spread the composition from the middle to the edges of the tree trunk circle - such feeding will be beneficial.

You can fertilize cherries with nitrogen and manure only in the spring, then the main shoot growth will take place in the summer.

Weeding and pest control

To prevent weeds from oppressing cherries, you need proper care behind the soil. Loosen and weed the ground under the crown, remove all exposed roots. Every spring, increase the diameter of the trunk circle by 10 cm until it reaches one and a half meters. Mulch and weed this area; only green manure is allowed to grow there.

Cherries suffer little from diseases and pests, but be on the safe side. When the buds open, spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture or azophos. Inspect the trunk to see if it has been damaged by frost or rodents over the winter. If you notice wounds, treat with a solution of copper sulfate, cover with garden varnish or paint. Whitewash the trunk to protect it from sunburn and pests.

Pruning and crown formation

During the first five years, the tree produces many shoots that grow rapidly. To prevent the crown from being too thick, remove and shorten excess branches every year. Be sure to treat the wounds after pruning with garden varnish, since gum leaks heavily from them.

Which shoots should I remove? There are several simple signs that help you understand which branches you need to get rid of:

• growing inside a tree;
• dry, damaged and diseased;
• interfering with other branches;
• interfering with tree care and harvesting.

Cherry blossoms bloom in spring, and to ensure the blossoms turn into a rich harvest, attract bees to the garden. There are many options: place a beehive on the site, plant honey plants in the inter-rows, or simply spray the trees with a honey solution.

Do cherries grow on your site? How do you care for her? Share your experience in the comments, perhaps your advice will help a novice gardener answer the question: how to properly plant and grow cherries.