Joining a bar into a paw, a root spike, as well as a dovetail and butt joint is the technology of correct fastening. Dovetail: theory and practice Angled dovetail connection

Dovetail joints in the lock can be made in a variety of ways. Some artists are attracted by the decorativeness of the repeating pattern. Execution of all varieties of "Dovetail" is an interesting task for any woodworker

Through dovetail

The Dovetail Thru is a traditional joint for joining the ends of solid wood planks. It is widely used in drawer designs and furniture making. Electric milling machines and special devices are used for the machine-made manufacture of such connections.

Spike markings

Adjust the thicknessing tool to the thickness of the wood.

Draw a line of cleat shoulders (“TAILS”) around the end of the part with tenons on all edges and on the sides of the part with slots. Where the risks from the planer can further spoil the appearance of the finished product, use a sharpened pencil and square.

Then mark the nests (or partitions between them). The size and quantity may vary, depending on the width of the boards and the type of wood (soft varieties require larger and less spaced spikes than hard woods). The appearance of the finished connection can be no less varied. Roughly, to give the product a good appearance, the spikes should be of the same size and evenly spaced, but wider than the partitions between the nests.

Start by drawing a line with a pencil across the end of the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from each edge, then divide and mark the distance between them into an even number of equal parts. Set aside 3 mm on each side of the marks and draw lines across the end.

Mark the slope of the spikes on the front side with a bead or dovetail stencil. Mark the excess to avoid confusion later.

Carving thorns

Set the workpiece so that one side of each tenon is vertical. Using a reward, cut one of the side vertical edges of each spike. Stay close to the yaw line and take care not to file past the shoulder line.

After reinstalling the workpiece in a vise, cut out the other side edges of the tenons. Place the part horizontally in a vise and cut off the lateral release along the line of the shoulders. Remove the main excess wood between the spikes with an openwork saw.

Cut off the remainder with a chisel or beveled chisel, working from both sides to the middle to the shoulder line.

Nest marking

Rub the end of the prepared workpiece with chalk and set it vertically in a vice. Place the cut-out tenon piece in place, making sure the faces of the joint pieces match. Carefully line up the edges and shoulder line of the cleats on the chalked end and mark the shape of the cleats with a scribe or knife, then continue lines to the shoulders on each side of the slotted workpiece. Use a pencil to mark the excess.

Carving nests

Place the workpiece vertically in a vise. Saw to the shoulder line at the corners marked with the thorns. Make a cut in the waste part so that it just touches the marking line. Remove the main part of the waste between the nest partitions with an openwork saw, cut the remainder evenly to the shoulder line with a chisel or chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Work from both sides to the center. Clean the corners by keeping the cutter at the corner of the inner edges of the sockets.

Assembling the connection

Dovetail joints are made very precisely and only need to be fully assembled once. To check the fit of the parts, assemble the product piece by piece dry (without glue) and carefully cut off the excess in too tight places. Clean the inside of the parts before gluing.

Apply glue to both halves of the joint and use a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the surface of the piece, bond the pieces tightly. If you are working with a wide joint, tap across the entire width to keep the pieces together evenly. Remove excess adhesive before it hardens. When the glue is dry, use a jointer to work from the edges to the middle to avoid chipping off the end layers.

Dovetail corners

The angle of the dovetail should be neither too steep nor too sloping. Too much dovetail slope produces weak short filaments at the corners, while insufficient slope can reduce the bond strength of the joint. On a wooden trim, make a bevel mark and set a bevel solution along it, or use a stencil or template. For hardwoods, the slope should be 1/8, and for softwoods, it should be made equal to 1/6.

Decorative pass-through dovetail

Graceful and neatly made through joints are pleasing to the eye and are often used in furniture structures. Decorative options are used to highlight this property and showcase the art of the master.

The joint design complies with the basic principles of the proportion and imbalance of the joint elements. The example shown here uses thinner baffles than conventional baffles.

Spike markings

Along the entire perimeter of the end of the workpiece with spikes, draw a line marking the shoulders with a pencil or very lightly with a thicknesser.

Continue the lines to the end and mark the excess.

Carving thorns

Use a tenon and openwork saw to cut back as you would with conventional dovetail through joints. Clean up with a beveled chisel or chisel, working from end to center.

Nest marking

Chalk the end of the part with the slots. With a solution of a cutting thicknessing tool equal to the length (height) of the small tenons, mark the line of the thickness of the small partitions between the nests at the end. Mark the partitions along the spiked part using the tip of a saw or scribe. Continue lines to the shoulder line on each side and mark the excess.

Carving nests

Remove the bulk of the waste with a tenon and openwork saw and trim the shoulders with a chisel or chisel. To cut small dividers to size, press the workpiece onto a flat board against a workbench or work table.

Cut across the grain next to the shoulder line. Mark out the ends of the spikes. Carefully trim off the excess, working along the grain. Then repeat the operation and stop at the line marking the shoulders (thickness gauge) and the line of thickness. Apply glue and assemble the joint as you would a regular dovetail thru-lock.

Bevelled Dovetail Thru

Sometimes a dovetail through-lock is combined with a beveled corner joint so that a chamfer with a shaped profile can be performed on the edge.

The depth of the beveled part depends on the profile of the chamfer.

Spike markings

Use a thickness gauge to mark the shoulder line on both sides and the bottom edge of the spiked part. Draw a bevel line at the top edge. Measure from the top of the end face the depth required for the chamfer. Draw a line across the mark across the end and around to the shoulder line. Make a faint mark with a pencil 6 mm from the first mark and 6 mm above the bottom edge. Distribute the required number of spikes between these marks. Mark the excess.

Carving thorns

Saw through the sides of the spikes and along the line of the chamfer depth and remove the retreat with an openwork saw. Smooth back with a chisel or beveled chisel. Leave the excess in the bevel for now.

Nest marking

Use a thickness gauge to draw a light line of shoulders on both sides of the socket part. Mark a bevel line at the top edge. Rub the end with chalk and mark the nests (partitions) and the bevelling off the workpiece with spikes. Draw a line of spikes on the butt end and on the sides up to the shoulder line, and up to the bevelling line only on the inside. Mark the excess.

Through connection with a rebate in the dovetail lock

Making a box with a dovetail joint having a bottom inserted into a rebate (recess) along the lower edge of the walls requires some modification of this gusset to avoid gaps in the lower corners. This is achieved by shifting the position of the stud shoulder to close the gap.

Spike markings

Using a thickness gauge, mark the shoulder line on the sides and across the top edge. Also, with a reamer, draw a line of rebate depth along the inner edge, across the butt end and on the front side to the shoulder line. Mark the inside of the slotted part with the same thicknessing tool setting.

Reinstall the thickness gauge if necessary and mark the rebate width on the edges of both parts of the joint. Make one pencil mark on the spiked workpiece 6 mm below the planned fold depth and another 6 mm from the opposite edge. Mark the position of the spikes between these marks. Draw a line across the intended chamfer edge on the spiked part to match the fold on the socket part, and mark the offset.

Nest marking

Use a thickness gauge to draw a line of shoulders on both sides of the slotted part. Chalk the butt and mark the nests on the spiked part using a scriber or sharpened pencil. Mark the excess.

Bevelled dovetail joint

The design of such a "dovetail" is completely hidden by the bevel and is often referred to as a dovetail lock or a secret lock. This connection is used for delicate work and requires careful and careful execution. The parts to be joined must be of the same thickness and cut to length. Spikes can only be marked by the nests, which are cut first. Marking and cutting grooves Set the thicknessing tool to the thickness of the workpiece and mark a line of shoulders across the inside, working from the butt end.

Using a scribe and bevel, mark a bevel at each edge between the planer line and the outside corner. Set the thickness gauge to the width of the overlap and mark the fold.

Mark the butt from the outside and the fold depth line from the butt. Saw off the excess fold and smooth the surface with a shoulder plane. Start marking the nests by drawing a line (parallel to each edge) from the shoulder line to the overlap with a thicknesser. The distance should not exceed 6 mm from the edge.

Mark the width and position of the sockets at the end between the lines drawn by the thickness gauge. Make a cardboard dovetail stencil and press it against the side of the overlap so that it does not stray from the correct position. Continue marking to the shoulder line and mark the excess with a chisel or chisel.

The saw may cut slightly into the overlap. Saw off the excess bevel. Set the workpiece vertically and use a chisel or chisel to cut off the bulk of the waste from the overlap bevel.

Use a shoulder plane to trim the bevel. Use a beveled stop to help guide the planer in the right direction.

Marking and cutting

Follow the recommendations for making a part with slots up to and including cutting the fold. Place the spiked part on a workbench with the inside facing up. Place the part with the slots vertically so that the inside of the part is flush with the marking line of the planer. Use a scribe to mark the nests (with a partition). Continue the lines to the butt and mark the excess.

Cut off excess bevel. Then saw through the sides of the cleats and hack away the space between the cleats and between the outer cleats and the shoulders of the bevel. Finally, trim off and stitch the overlap bevel like a nest piece. Test the assembly before gluing.

Inclined dovetail lock

This connection is used to make rigid connections. This is not an easy task, as it is difficult to visualize, difficult to mark, and all the edges of the parts are at an angle, which requires careful cutting. The workpieces must be of the same thickness and be welded in length and width. It is necessary to make a drawing in projections, according to which to calculate the dimensions of the blanks before marking the connection.

Executing a drawing

Start with a side view of the finished frame connection. Indicate the thickness of the wood, and the dotted line - the original dimensions of the workpiece. Draw the vertical projection (plan) under the side. Then project the side view onto a horizontal plane.

Marking and cutting ends

Cut the workpieces to length and width as shown by the dotted lines in the side view. Place the bevel at an angle of inclination X. Mark this angle on the inside, working from the corner of the joint. Saw off the ends along this slope. Place the second bevel at corner U. Mark it on the edges, measuring from the outside.

Connect the marks on the edge to form a guide line for cutting off the bevel of the edge. In fact, the tilt should be checked perpendicular to the edge during the planing process to get the true tilt angle. With the workpiece in a vice so that the end is horizontal, carefully plan the end bevel on each workpiece.

Marking and Cutting Connection Elements

Mark the spikes on the face of the spiked part. First, measure the thickness of the material on both sides of both workpieces, measuring the size along the beveled ends. Connect the lines at each edge of the spiked part. With a small mark attached to the end corner X, mark a line from the inner bottom corner along the edge of the spiked part.

Make marks 6 mm below the top edge and 6 mm above the bottom. Calculate and mark the shape and position of the spikes between these marks. Then, with a cardboard stencil on the square, mark the spikes on the outside.

Mark the slope of the tenon ends at the angled end of the tenon part. Use a bevel set at an angle X. Hold the bead block so that it is parallel to the end. Using a square and cardboard dovetail stencil, mark the spikes on the inside. Mark the excess. Carefully cut the tenons exactly according to the marked corners. Place the workpiece in a vise at an angle to cut vertically.

On the cut out spikes, mark the end of the part with the sockets. Rub the end face with chalk so that the lines from the scribe are more visible. Place the spiked part on the end so that the edges and the inner shoulders match, and draw around the spikes. Using a chalk at an X corner, draw parallel lines from each spike to the shoulder line. Mark the excess, then use a saw and chisel or chisel to carefully remove it according to the markings.

It is possible to stitch the bevel on long edges both before and after gluing. In both cases, use a small piece set at an X angle to check. Tilted sides can be difficult to bond when gluing. If you hammer the joint during assembly to fit the elements into place, use a piece of wood as a spacer to protect the parts from damage.

Edited 09/29/2018

Landing bar "Dovetail" - a type of detachable connection of parts, an auxiliary canopy system
equipment for small arms. The trapezoid angle for the classic dovetail is selected from 45, 55 and 60 degrees. In fact, it is a metal strip with grooves on the sides.

If we consider the width of the "dovetail", then each weapon manufacturer is ready to offer its own options. Starting with Turkish guns, which have a width of about 6 mm at the top edge, it is necessary to end the range with Czech guns, which have a 19 mm dovetail width. For domestic production, 11 mm strips are still characteristic.

Due to the different sizes, manufacturers produce various adapter brackets, including for slats and.

Advantages of the Dovetail landing strip

Easy to manufacture.
In an effort to make life easier for themselves and the shooters, some manufacturers, for example IzhMekh, HATSAN, etc. have come to the point that the sight seat can be made simply in the form of two grooves on the receiver (Izh-38, HATSAN 55S and similar rifles) ...
Ease of use, since the optics, which were thus attached to the gun, were located at the top of the gun and, if necessary, it was possible to install a diopter in the mount of this optics. This made it possible not only to make aimed fire from the optics, but also to use a conventional rear sight without removing the optics itself. Also, the very quick scope setup was one of the primary reasons why the dovetail mount became popular.

The shape of the landing strip "Dovetail"

There are 2 options

"Swallowtail" with a rounded shape

The upper part of the seat is a continuation of the receiver's circumference. To produce such a fastener, it was simply necessary to mill small grooves from two edges. The simplicity of production led to installation problems, since many rifle scope rings or collimator sights themselves have a straight base.

Dovetail with straight base

A straight base, as seen in the cut, involves sanding the top of the seat. At the moment, there are various fastening options for this mount.

The above two options are the top mount type. But the "dovetail" is also common when side-mounted guns such as Tiger (SVD), Vepr, Saiga (AK), SKS, KO-44 and others.

Dovetail stopper

Quite an important nuance of the dovetail attachment is the presence of stoppers. With a fairly high recoil, the sight can move along the bar, thereby disrupting the zeroing. There are several options to prevent the sight from going off:

What is a dovetail bar joint?

Very often, novice developers ask what is dovetail and how to apply it in practice? We are willingly ready to explain all the most important aspects of this type of timber connection, i.e. joining the bar into a dovetail.

In really joining of timber can be produced in different ways, but the most effective and graceful is the so-called "dovetail". Its design is capable of rigidly preventing the penetration of direct air currents into the interior of the premises. In terms of strength, such a connection is considered the most reliable, since it is very rigid, it is unrealistic to break it even with a high deformation load on the building. Dovetail log houses can withstand a strong earthquake (tested in practice).

Correctly felled (sawed) connection is very tight. True, wood is a natural material, and it tends to undergo natural temperature expansion. In the process of drying, the timber can more than once absorb moisture and give it back to the atmosphere. Naturally, the percentage of moisture gradually decreases and, as a result, returns to the normal rate of natural shrinkage. To increase the density of connections, in place joining timber use mezhventsovy insulation made of flax, jute or tow.

The dovetail docking has been proven over the years and has a quality standard.

Using a dovetail bar as a connection, you will already partially solve the problem of heat loss through the walls of a house from a bar, because you will get a high-quality warm corner. The regulations for the use of this connection are established by GOST 30974 - 2002 “Corner joints of wooden cobbled and log low-rise buildings. Classification, designs, dimensions ". This fact is weighty and convincing, since we are still accustomed to trusting government agencies in the field of quality control and operational safety.

Variants of application of joining a bar in a dovetail

Even in spite of some complexity of the work, to do joining the bar into a dovetail not a problem. Here you need to make a dovetail template and mark the places where you washed it down. The template must be made in advance from a sheet of tin or plastic. It is more convenient to saw with a chainsaw with a short tire.

Let us list in which options for joining the timber dovetail can be used:

1. The dovetail is effective for joining the bar lengthwise.

Docking the timber along the length in the "Dovetail"

Dovetail

2. The dovetail is often used for joining the timber when joining the inner wall to the outer one.

3. In the corners of a house made of a bar, a semi-lamellar tail connection is used (photos are clickable).

Corner connection of a bar

Corner connection of a bar in a dovetail

Dovetail, detachable spike connection (trapezoidal grooves), used in mechanical engineering and joinery for reliable fastening of parts to each other. In this material, we will consider the manufacture of devices that facilitate the production of grooves in a tree using a hand mill.

Diy wood router accessories

The machine itself is a very ancient invention of mankind, descriptions of the principles of milling appeared in the 16th century, and the prototype of the machine was the invention of Leonardo da Vinci, who proposed rotating a round file to increase the processing of a product, which can be considered the first analogue of a cutter.

And already the American inventor Eli Whitney, over the years of his life from 1765 to 1825, brought to mind all the scattered attempts to create a full-fledged machine, for which he is rightfully considered the creator of the first milling machine, although not all scientists agree with this statement.

And since the machine has such ancient roots, there are a great many adaptations for the manufacture of various parts, it is not possible to describe them all in the light of this material, and therefore we will consider only some of them, in my opinion, the most important and useful.

Universal joint for tongue and groove connection

factory plate for making a thorn-groove connection

It is used with a router to cut the corresponding grooves and tenons, it is installed in a vice, and the part is pressed with a clamp to the device. Usually sold in stores.

connection appearance

Consider devices for milling grooves

Saw out the top - a table top made of 18 mm plywood 40 cm long and wide enough to cut the thickest workpiece you plan to dowel.

Cut out two 5x10 cm bars by sawing them off the same length as the top. In the future, the bars will play the role of pressing the workpiece and centering it relative to the groove in the table top. To prepare the top, draw a line in the center of the top, then mill a notch along the line at one end.

schematic representation of a tooling

note

The indentation should be the same width as the copying ring that you will use with your router bit. The indentation must be long enough to match the length of the longest slot you are about to cut.

Then, mill two adjustment slots perpendicular to the center line. Finally, drill an inspection hole between these two slots. To assemble the entire structure, screw the bolts into the jaws and secure the top to the bars with wing nuts and washers.

To use our equipment, draw a groove on the workpiece and mark a center line on it. Loosen the thumbs and place the workpieces between the bars so that the center line connects with the top line of the fit, check that the edge of the workpiece is opposite the top edge.

Pinch the lambs. Align the router bit to one end of the groove drawing, then mark the construction lines on the top of the table along the edge of the router base.

How to properly work with a thorn groove rig

Repeat this one more time to mark the lines at the other end. Mill the groove starting at the bottom of the cut by aligning the router base with the first reference line, and stop milling when the insert reaches the second reference line.

Dovetail joinery was created centuries ago before reliable adhesives and affordable fasteners appeared. This traditional way of joining two wooden pieces is still in demand today. It is used in box structures and in the manufacture of furniture. We will talk in detail about all the features of this carpentry connection, the intricacies of its design and methods of creation by hand and mechanized methods.

Swallowtail is not only about aesthetics

It is widely believed that today, in an era of affordable quality glue and cheap fasteners, the use of a dovetail is more of an aesthetic whim. This judgment is only partly true. Undoubtedly, all kinds of this spike connection are very expressive, testify to the skill of the carpenter and are able to decorate any project. But the dovetail, in addition to beauty, also has important functional advantages.

The joint resists well the natural deformations of the wood without losing its structural integrity. Due to this quality, it is advisable to use it in large parts, especially in solid wood products in the manufacture of furniture and boxes.

By using the dovetail, the optimum bond strength can be selected: this is influenced by the total number of studs and the angle of the eyelet. Another feature that increases the mechanical strength is the large bonding area.

Dovetail anatomy

The connection consists of two parts. At the end of one of them wide trapezoidal “dovetails” are carved, on the other there are narrow response spines. A thorn at the edge is called half or one-sided because of the presence of one bevel instead of two.

What to consider when designing a connection?

When designing a dovetail, a number of points are taken into account that will affect both its strength and appearance.

The distance between the pins and their size determines the strength of the connection.

At equal intervals (1: 1 ratio), the mechanical strength is the highest. But this configuration is rarely used. Since, due to the large number of elements, the manufacture of the part takes corresponding time. The likelihood of making mistakes that cause a loose fit is also higher. Usually a 2: 1 or 3: 1 ratio is used. In these cases, the bond strength remains as high.

When joining wide parts along the edges, additional spikes are made at small intervals. This solution helps to effectively deal with wood warpage.

This is an important parameter in determining the mechanical properties of the joint. If the angle is too small, the lock will not lock and the mount will turn into a regular spike connection. If the angle is too large, the tapered part of the dovetail may split during assembly and the spike will fall off.

For softwoods, the dovetail angle is steeper as it is more susceptible to crushing and deformation under stress. The optimal ratio is 1: 6. For hardwood, the angle is made less steep - 1: 8.

The design principle of the "dovetail" shape is shown in the drawing.

How to make accurate markup?

When making a dovetail with your own hands, the accuracy of the marking is of paramount importance. For its application, a bevel and a square are traditionally used.

A more practical and convenient device for these purposes is a special template. These markers come in different angles and are designed for soft or hard wood species.

Making a swallow tail with your own hands

To make a dovetail by hand, you need the following set of tools:

INSTRUMENTS

marking gage;
malka or special markers;
carpentry square;
butt saw;
carpentry chisel and mallet;
a marking knife or pencil.

Cutting the connection begins with the preparation of the part with spikes. This is important as it will be used for the dovetail markings. In order not to get confused in orientation, temporary markings are made on the parts, marking the front and back sides, top and bottom edges.

We mark the line of shoulders with a thickness gauge on all four edges. Having decided on the number of spikes, using a special template, we apply the markings first at the end, and then on the face of the part. For the convenience of subsequent work, mark the areas that will be deleted.

The same procedure can be performed using a bevel and a carpenter's square.

With a back saw, we make even cuts to the line of the shoulders, marked with a thickness gauge. We hold the canvas strictly perpendicular to the end; sawing with even movements without jerking. To prevent the saw from being pulled to the side, you can use a small carpentry square as an impromptu guide.

The gap between the pins can be removed in two ways:

The first is with a jigsaw. In this case, the main part of the waste is removed, and small residues are carefully trimmed and cleaned with a chisel.

It is not much more difficult to choose a retreat using one chisel. Having fixed the part on the workbench, remove the wood layer by layer, as shown in the diagram.

Dovetail markings

Use the spiked part as a template for marking the "dovetails". Aligning the end face of the first part with the line of the shoulders, mark the "dovetails" as shown in the photo. For convenience, we shade the sections of the exit.

Sawing out dovetail

We make cuts with a butt saw. We clamp the workpiece in a vice at an angle, so that the marking lines are not oblique, but vertical. This will increase the convenience of work and will allow you to make a cut more accurately.

We saw through not strictly along the marking line, but next to it, so as to create a small margin for the subsequent trimming of the connection. We cut smoothly, without jerking, stop at the shoulder line.

Having made all the cuts, with a chisel we remove the retreat between the "dovetails". This process is similar to stripping the studs, except that the foreman has the task of carefully and evenly trimming the remaining allowance.

We cut out the hangers. Saw off the retreat with a small allowance, then cut it with a chisel to the marking line.

Dry assembly and fitting of the joint

Dry assembly is carried out before gluing to check the tightness of the fit. We insert the part with thorns into the dovetails and gently beat it with a mallet. To avoid breaking the spikes and tails, cover the joint with a piece of wood that will distribute the impacts.

The spines and tails should fit snugly together. In the correct connection, a light tap with a mallet is sufficient for assembly. If the connection is too tight, the parts are disassembled, the problematic thickening is determined and very carefully trimmed with a chisel.

The glue is applied in a thin layer to all contact surfaces of both parts of the box connection. The assembled structure is pulled together. To distribute the pressure over the entire area of the joint, wooden blocks are placed under the jaws of the clamps.

Details of box joints are always made in several copies. You can optimize your workflow by bundling the workpieces and sawing the entire batch in one go.

How to make a dovetail with a router

For mass production of parts with such a lock, it is advisable to use mechanized methods. The best option in this case is the use of special templates, in which one side is designed for milling "dovetail", the other - for creating thorns.

Dovetail templates allow for the use of two different cutters. The first is a tapered dovetail cutter. The second is a straight cutter for wood to create thorns.

Position the part with "tails" in such a way that its edge is located strictly in the center of the slot. Install the second part (with spikes) flush on the back. We use a carpenter's square to precisely fit the two blanks.

We fix the assembled structure in a horizontal position, clamping it with clamps or in a vice.

Dovetail milling

For convenience, mark the waste part with a pencil. Set the desired overhang of the tapered cutter and cut out the gaps between the dovetails.

On the corresponding side of the template, use a straight cutter to cut the spikes along the entire length of the part.

Cutting off excess thorns. Let go of the clamps and move the template so that each spike is in the center of the slot.

We mark the extra elements and cut them off with a milling cutter.