How to care for young trees. Protection of fruit trees from rodents. Protecting young trees in winter

When planted in a garden, there are usually 5-6 main branches and a continuation shoot. After planting the tree, the main branches are shortened in the spring, while the lower and weaker branches are pruned less, and the upper and strong ones are cut more. At the first pruning, the central shoot should be shortened so that it is 25-30 cm higher than the main pruned branches.

In subsequent years, on the continuation shoot, other main branches of the crown are laid in the same way (from one to three per year).

If the continuation shoot turns out to be broken or lags behind in growth, it must be replaced with the nearest lateral branch, tying it vertically. It is necessary to monitor the growth of the upper branch - a competitor of the continuation shoot, cutting it out in time.

The formation of branches of the second order on the main branches of the crown is done in about the same way.

Shoots growing inside the crown are cut into a ring or, shortened by pruning, are turned into fruit twigs.

Tillage and row spacing

For better growth and development in the first years of life, fruit trees need the most careful care and nutrition. At the same time, in young gardens, up to 15 years of age, the aisles should be used for agricultural crops. These crops must meet the following requirements: 1) ensure the greatest accumulation of nutrients in the soil, and not deplete it; 2) contribute to the destruction of weeds; 3) create a soil structure.

The aisles of a young garden should be occupied with row crops (root crops, potatoes, vegetables), peas, as well as honey plants and green manure with the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers under them.

The cultivation of grain and industrial crops in the aisles of the garden is unacceptable.

In the first 2-3 years after planting the garden, the width of the near-trunk strips not occupied by inter-row crops should be at least 1.5-2 m, in the next 3 years they are expanded to 3 m, and in a 10-year-old garden - up to 4 m ( Table 1).

Inter-row crops should be placed so that soil cultivation can be mechanized simultaneously both in the aisles and on the near-trunk strips.

Near-trunk strips 1 - 1.5 m wide in the 3-4th year after planting trees can be sown with perennial grasses (clover, lupine). The cut grass is left in the near-trunk circles. This activity does not worsen the condition of the trees, but makes it easier to care for the soil in young garden.

Processing of near-trunk circles and stripes

The soil on the trunks and strips should be kept under black steam. This is achieved by cultivating 3-4 times with tools with retractable sections or working bodies offset to the side of a row. Narrow strips or squares around the trunk are loosened with a hoe and dug up with a shovel in spring and autumn. When digging, the shovel is placed with its edge against the tree so as not to damage the roots. With the growth of trees, the size of the trunk circles increases. Usually, the roots of trees spread further from the trunk than the branches of the crown. Therefore, the trunks should be processed not only under the crown, but also outside it (at a distance of 0.5 m).

The processing of near-trunk circles only near the very trunk of the tree does not achieve its purpose, since the thickest roots are located here, which do not take nutrients from the soil, but serve only as their conductors. The tree is nourished by young, thin branches located at the ends of the main roots.

Plowing near trees should be done to a depth of 10-15 cm. In gardens located on slopes, plowing is done across the slope.

In dry weather, the soil in the near-trunk circles must be watered (in the holes). In moist soil, small roots form faster and trees grow and develop better.

Following watering, the surface of the holes is mulched - covered with humus, peat or loose earth.

It is also necessary to monitor the appearance of wild growth and destroy it. If such overgrowth is not removed in a timely manner, then it can completely drown out the grafted tree. Shoots are cut out at their very base, slightly below the soil level. The ground, sometimes partially covering the shoots, must first be dug up.

Crown and trunk care

To crown the young fruit trees grew and formed correctly, it is necessary to inspect and cut them annually. At the same time, they take care of the tree trunk.

If for some reason the trunk of the tree thickens slightly, the bark must be furrowed. For this spring is the end sharp knife make a longitudinal incision from top to bottom along the entire trunk. Only the bark is cut, without deepening the knife to the wood.

From such an incision, the bark moves apart slightly.

The resulting gap is overgrown from the inside with a new layer of bark, and the trunk thickens. The bark is usually furrowed from 3-4 sides of the trunk at once.

The stakes to which the trees are tied during planting are removed by the beginning of fruiting.

Some young apple trees in winter time trunks are damaged by mice or hares. If the damage is small, then this place should be covered with garden putty. If the bark is eaten around, then grafting with a bridge is used to save the tree. For this in early spring until the buds swell, cuttings are prepared, cutting them off with an oblique cut from both ends. Then the cuttings are inserted from two or three sides under the bark below and above the wound. After that, the vaccination site is tied up, and the wound is covered with garden putty. Usually in this way it is possible to save the tree from death. Of course, it is better to prevent such damage to trees and to protect them during the winter from mice and hares by tying the trunks spruce branches(tops down) before the onset of frost.

When cultivating the soil, maintaining the aisles and harvesting, it is necessary to ensure that there are no breakages, stripping of the bark of the boles and damage to the roots of trees.

Fertilizing a young garden

For the best growth of young fruit trees in the soil is necessary. In young gardens, the soil is fertilized in near-trunk circles and near-trunk strips, gradually increasing the fertilization zone. However, to improve soil conditions between rows, it is necessary to systematically fertilize them in accordance with the requirements of inter-row culture and to increase fertility.

The rate of organic and mineral fertilizers in young gardens per tree is set depending on the age of the plants and the fertilized area of ​​the trunks (Table 2).

table 2 Approximate norms of organic and mineral fertilizers when applied together on one tree, depending on the age of the garden and the size of the trunk circles Years after planting the garden diameter of trunk circles (in m) The amount of manure or compost (in kg) The amount of mineral fertilizers (in g) ammonium nitrate superphosphate potassium chloride 12-15 15-20 20-30 30-40 40-50

To eliminate and improve the nutritional conditions of plants, liming of the soil is carried out once every 8-10 years. lime tuff, drywall, ground limestone or dolomite flour at a rate of 2-4 tons per hectare, depending on the acidity and texture of the soil.

If lime fertilizers are not provided, the established rate of lime can be applied in parts: first, one half, and after a few years - the other.

In case of an acute shortage of lime fertilizers on the farm, small doses of a carbonaceous layer of lime mixed with mineral fertilizers should be introduced into the soil in the following ratio: per 1 centner of ammonium nitrate - 0.7 centners of lime; for 1 centner of ammonium sulfate -1.3 centners of lime; for 1 centner of superphosphate - 0.1 centner of lime; for 1 centner of potassium chloride - 0.5 centners of lime. Fertilizers are mixed with lime on the day they are added to the soil.

With dry top dressing, the trunks are preliminarily watered with water. Most often they are fed with nitrogen mineral fertilizers and less often with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers taken together. For feeding, take half of those indicated in the table. 5 norms of mineral fertilizers. Usually 2-3 top dressing is done, and therefore the half rate of fertilizers taken from the table is divided into 2-3 parts and each time the corresponding part is applied (half or third part). The first feeding is given in the spring during the blooming of flower buds, the second - 2 or 3 weeks after the first, during the increased growth of shoots, and the third - 2-3 weeks after the second.

They are fed only in spring and in the first half of summer. a delay in feeding leads to a delay in growth, which can cause freezing of wood in winter.

Protecting young trees in winter

Planted young trees must be tied with reeds, pine and spruce branches (needles down) for the winter, and in the absence of these materials - with tar paper. The strapping should be done after the end of the rainy period, when leaf fall ends and frosts begin.

It is necessary to tie a tree from the ground itself to the top, initially tying its branches into a bunch. When tying the branches, you should not bend them too much at the base, since in this place they are very fragile and can easily break. The harness protects the trunk and branches from the action of winds and from spring heating, which results in bark burns. For the same purpose, the trees are coated with lime mortar for the 3-5th year after planting.

In gardens, more trees are killed not by frost, but by the sun's heat. Sometimes in a harsh winter, the trees remain unharmed, and in a rather warm winter, they die, especially if winter or spring was distinguished by an abundance of sunny days.

When tying trees with needles or reeds, as well as when whitewashing them with lime, the bark of the trunk and branches is not subject to sunburn.

The roots of planted trees can suffer from frost, since at first they are close to the ground. In order to protect the roots of a young tree from freezing, they should be insulated during the first few years. Many gardeners make the mistake of shoveling soil from the trunk circle (from the irrigation hole) to the trunk to protect the roots from frost. Such a technique is incorrect because the earth, which is pressed to the trunk, is taken from precisely those places where it is most needed. The most delicate roots are located around the circumference of the trunk circle, which can suffer more from frost than others, and from them they rake the earth to the trunk, where there are thick roots that do not need shelter so much. In addition, trunks in damp autumn and spring under the cover of the earth can suffer from under-heating.

It is best to cover the holes with fallen leaves with a layer of 5-6 cm or, in the absence of leaves, with fine manure, peat or earth from the rows. During spring digging, this layer is mixed with the ground and serves good fertilizer... The snow that has fallen must be raked to each tree from the aisles of the garden and well trampled on it. If the trampled snow is covered with straw manure at the onset of spring (when the thaws have already begun), then the trees will bloom later and, thus, the flowers will not be damaged by spring matinees.

The volume and quality of the harvest of the next year directly depends on the correctness and timeliness of the work carried out in the autumn to care for fruit trees. Measures to protect them from pests, diseases, fertilization, digging and moistening the soil in the garden, extremely important work pruning should be done on time - this will make it easier for the trees to enter the winter and help to survive it without loss.

The importance of autumn care

Conducted in correct order measures for the autumn care of fruit trees after the end of the harvest helps to increase their winter hardiness, that is, the ability not to suffer from any weather disasters - severe frosts, sharp thaws, and most importantly - the alternation of both.

Strengthen the immunity of plants, reduce the volume of branches, protect against pests, diseases, so that nutrients are introduced in the fall so that trees and shrubs, waking up in the spring, could immediately use them - all this work needs to be done in a fairly short time.

Skipping any of the stages is fraught not only with catching up in the spring, but with a lack of harvest or even the death of the entire plant.

Gardening plan in the fall

Correct care per orchard in the autumn period begins in September and should end about half a month before the arrival of frost. In order to have time to carry out all the work on time, it is convenient to take care of the trees in the fall according to the plan, adjusted according to the weather forecast in a particular area. The main stages of activity are as follows:

• remove trapping belts, clean them and destroy pests, remove carrion from the ground;
• approximately in the second month of autumn, as cold and rainy weather approaches, young seedlings are planted;
• pruning fruit-bearing trees - if the harvest has already been harvested, sap flow is slowed down and the plants are getting ready for bed;
• whitewash the trunks and bases of large branches;
• trunks, branches are processed from insects hiding in them for the winter, prevention of fungal diseases and rot is carried out;
• collecting and burning foliage and cut branches;
• they dig up the ground near the berry fields and in the tree-trunk circles, make recharge in the form of fertilizers;
• if necessary, trees are warmed and protected from small and large rodents (especially young seedlings).

Sanitary pruning

The main way to regulate the yield of fruit trees is their pruning. She heals the plant, does not let it run wild, directs it to the right direction growth of branches and helps to form a bountiful harvest. The main burden of pruning fruit trees falls on gardeners in the spring, when the frost has already ended, but the growing season has not yet begun. In the fall, sanitary pruning is carried out: after a careful examination, broken, dried branches are removed - these are especially liked by harmful insects. They also cut out shoots that strongly interfere with others, weak and crossing.

Tops destroy - fattening, with large leaves and weak buds. They usually grow from dormant buds on skeletal old branches. The fruits are not tied on tops, and they take away the strength from the tree, parallel to the thickening crown. A provoking factor for the appearance a large number tops is overfeeding the tree with nitrogen and too much watering.

Having got rid of unnecessary, unproductive load, the plant directs more energy to prepare for the winter cold.

Preventive treatment for diseases

Autumn care includes spraying the trunk and branches with medicinal substances. In particular, treatment with copper preparations, solutions of ferrous sulfate and Bordeaux liquid, as well as modern fungicides - Cuproxat, Horus, Topsin - allows prophylactic protection of fruit trees from coccomycosis and other types of spotting.

To suppress possible foci of scab and rot, treatment with drugs Impact, Strobi, Skor. Since any wounds, hollows and cracks in the bark of plants are open gates for infection, they mandatory treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate and covered with cement.

In addition, many insects lay larvae in the bark of fruit trees in the fall. This is how the offspring of the apple moth, the ringed silkworm, hope to survive the winter. Dry sheets, as if glued to the branches with a thin cobweb, are a refuge for the caterpillars of the golden-tail, the hawthorn. These are just some of the extensive list of pests in the orchard. To protect plantations from them, after harvesting volunteers, fallen leaves and debris, they clean the trunks and, as far as possible, branches from dead bark with iron brushes. Then all trees are treated with any of the well-proven insecticides - a three- or five percent urea solution, Fury, Agravertini, Bulldok preparations (they are especially effective against aphids, silkworms, leaf rollers and lungworms).

Whitewashing of trunks

it important factor care for fruit trees in the fall. Lime treatment of the bark serves as protection for plants against:

• winter temperature drops, when the bark heats up in the daytime in the sun, and at night it is affected by severe frosts,
• spring burns, when foliage is not yet covered;
• harmful insects that lay their larvae for the winter;
• a number of fungal diseases.

The solution for whitewashing should be thick enough, saturated. They cover the trunk and, if possible, the base of the skeletal branches.

Options for its composition:

• for home cooking, 2 kg of lime is combined with 400 g of copper sulfate. Dissolve in a bucket of water and put a kilogram of clay there and cow dung... For viscosity, some gardeners add paste to this mixture, but for young seedlings it cannot be used - the sticky mixture will interfere with the breathing of the delicate bark;
• for young trees, lime in this cocktail is replaced with chalk;
• purchased mixtures are divided into simple ones - made of clay and lime, which are quickly washed off by sediments, and special paints that hold on to the trunks for a long time and contain special antiseptics for diseases.

Autumn feeding

It is very important to carry out this procedure correctly. Autumn fertilization is considered more significant than spring and summer: the frost resistance of trees, especially those planted recently, is increased, their immunity and the strength of fruiting are strengthened.

Root dressing is added when digging the ground of the trunk circles. Humus and mineral fertilizers are introduced:

• humus it will pereperete by spring, and waking up, the plant will receive the nitrogen supplement it needs. For trees less than 8 years old, 30 kg of the substance is enough, for adults - about 50 kg;
• phosphorus- sparingly soluble in water, inactive substance. Scattering superphosphate over the soil surface is useless for plants. It is best to introduce it into the holes around the trunk along the projection of the crown to a depth of about 30 cm. A handful of fertilizer is placed in each hole, water is added and buried;
• potassium sulfate- the best potash top dressing, since there is no chlorine harmful for planting in it. The addition rate is 5-10 g per square meter.

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Humus

Simultaneous embedding of potash and phosphorus compounds is preferable - this way their assimilation is more efficient. The best way to care for trees in autumn is to purchase complex fertilizers and follow the instructions for use for different fruit crops.

Plants are not fed with nitrogen, since this element promotes the activation of sap flow, which harms the winter hardiness of trees.

Features of caring for seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

After planting, young trees must be tied to a stake and the soil is mulched. Digging of the trunk circles is carried out carefully, to a depth of no more than 15 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

The tender bark of young plantations, which is attractive to hares and mice, is especially vulnerable in winter. Caring for tree seedlings implies its obligatory protection. To do this, many gardeners tie the stems with spruce branches with needles down. If this is not possible, the best option- purchased fine mesh. It is wrapped around the trunks, at the same time burying it into the soil. Another unexpected material is obsolete synthetic tights and stockings.

In addition, to fight mice, you need to clear the garden of fallen leaves and branches after pruning in the fall.

In the fall, there is a lot of work to prepare the garden for winter, but this way it will endure the frosty period without loss and accumulate strength for active flowering and abundant fruiting.

Young garden care

Maintenance of the soil on the near-trunk strips. To provide the trees with water and food, the soil of the near-trunk strips 1.5-2.5 m wide is kept under black fallow, the aisles are occupied by the sowing of row crops, vegetable crops and siderates. The soil of the trunks is kept moist by irrigation and mulching with peat, peat compost, humus and other organic materials. Mulch is spread in early spring, when there is some moisture in the soil. Mulch is placed on the trunk circles in a layer of 6–8 cm, spending on 1 m 2 20-25 kg of peat or peat compost. On the 2-3rd year after planting, watering is carried out at the rate of 30-50 liters of water per plant.

Garden cultivators and disc harrows are used to cultivate the soil on the near-trunk strips. In order not to damage the trees during processing, the tools should not approach the trunks closer than 40 cm. In autumn, the soil of the near-trunk strips is loosened to a depth of 12 cm. rains to retain moisture, the soil is loosened to a depth of 6–8 cm (in total, 3-4 loosening is done over the summer). The part of the near-trunk strip not treated with tools is loosened by hand: in the fall - by digging a shovel half-bayonet, in the spring-summer period - by hoeing with weeding. When mulching, the trunks do not need repeated loosening, only a shelf of large weeds is required.

To accumulate moisture under trees and protect the bark of boles from damage by mice, it is useful 3-4 times a winter during thaws to trample snow in the trunks.

Organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil of the near-trunk strips. For these purposes, weathered peat, peat composts with peat feces with slurry, greenhouse humus and semi-rotted manure are used.

Mineral fertilizers applied together with organic in the form of organic-mineral composts or mixtures. To prepare the mixtures, a layer of organic fertilizers with a thickness of 12-15 cm is laid, superphosphate and potassium chloride are poured on it; 4–5 layers are laid in this way. Then they mix and leave this mass for several days to soak the organic matter with the resulting solution of mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers are applied once every 2-3 years when cultivating the soil under the fall. Fertilize for the first time in the 3rd year after the garden was laid. Until that time, young trees are provided with phosphorus and potassium due to fertilizers applied to the planting pits. 1 m 2 near the trunk circle (stripes) add 3-5 kg ​​of compost, humus or semi-rotted manure, 100 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride.

Nitrogen fertilizers are given annually in spring at the rate of 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m 2 ... In dry form, nitrogen fertilizer is sifted over the soil surface and sealed when loosening.

When applying liquid top dressing, the solution is poured into the furrows along the periphery of the circle or along the near-stem strip. The concentration of the solution should be low - 2-3 g per 1 liter of water. For liquid feeding, in addition to saltpeter, a solution of slurry and poultry droppings is used.

The slurry is diluted with water 3-4 times, bird droppings- 10 times (dry - 20 times). The norm of the solution of nitrate and organic fertilizers is one bucket per 3-4 m of the furrow. In dry weather, the soil in the furrows should be pre-watered with clean water.

Soil care between rows. In the 1st year after planting, the aisles are kept under black steam. In the 2nd and subsequent years, the aisles are used for growing green manure, vegetable and row crops.

To grow green manures, the soil between the rows in the first half of the season is kept under black fallow, at the end of June-first half of July, after the next rain, they are disking and sowing green manures. Mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, lupine, pelushka are used as siderates. Sowings of mustard, buckwheat, phacelia give from 20 to 30 tons of green mass per hectare, but they are valuable as honey plants. Seeding rates per 1 hectare for drill sowing: mustard - 20 kg, buckwheat - 100 kg, phacelia - 15 kg, lupine - 180 kg, pelushi - 150 kg.

The planting of green mass of siderates into the soil is carried out in the fall when the soil of the garden is cultivated under the fall. When maintaining a near-trunk strip 2-3 m wide under black fallow, siderates and other crops do not inhibit the growth of trees in a young garden, and therefore they can be sown in all rows. In the 9-11th year after the garden was laid, when the roots of the trees use the entire aisle area, green manure continues to be used according to the system adopted for a fruit-bearing garden. To get enough high harvest green mass and increasing soil fertility, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers: 3 kg of superphosphate, 2 kg of potassium chloride, 2 kg nitrogen fertilizers per hundred square meters.

In young backyard or collective gardens, row spacing can be used for potatoes, vegetable crops (except for late varieties of cabbage, which delay autumn processing soil).

Trunk circles are kept in a loose, weed-free condition or mulched. You should not cultivate grain crops for grain in the aisles of the garden, as they very much dry up the soil and inhibit growth pear trees... Fertilizer rates for growing vegetables per 1 m 2 7 kg of compost or humus, manure, peat, 60 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride or 100 g wood ash, 40 g of ammonium nitrate. For improvement physical properties the soil in the 3rd year after planting the aisles of the garden can be occupied with perennial grasses (no more than 2 years).

In a young garden, it is necessary to carry out work on snow retention and to reduce the flow of melt water by moving the snow to the rows of trees using a tractor with a heavy square attached to it. Snow melts in the shafts more slowly, thawed patches formed in the aisles hold water well.

Soil cultivation in the aisles of a young garden consists of plowing under the fall (in private gardens- digging) and 5 cultivation in the spring and summer.

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Autumn is the period on which the quality and quantity of the harvest for the next year directly depends.

If you devote enough time to caring for fruit trees, then do not hesitate, in the summer you will see the result of your work and knowledge.

Therefore, you should not be lazy and put off everything for later.

It is in the fall that it is necessary to protect the garden from diseases and pests, it is enough to fertilize, moisten and dig up the soil, and also pay special attention to preparing for winter.

We will talk about this in more detail.

First of all, in the fall, you need to take care of the protection of fruit trees. It is better to start all activities when the foliage falls. But do not delay too much.

The timing of preparation depends on the climate of the region where the garden is planted - in the northern regions this event can be started at the end of September, and in the southern regions - in October. Because, late preparation for winter in the north may not only not improve the condition of the garden, but even ruin it.

Whitewashing wood

Many people believe that whitewashing trees is a protection against harmful insects that have deposited their larvae in the bark for the winter, as well as some fungal diseases. Of course it is, but not only. Back in 1887, it was noticed that the trees whitewashed with a solution of lime tolerated frost better than their untreated neighbors on the site.

Gardeners still use this experience. What's the secret? Such a coating serves as a protective layer against large temperature fluctuations in winter, when the sun is hot during the day and frost starts to freeze at night. Untreated trees become covered with cracks, which serve as an excellent habitat for various pathogens. But here, too, you need to know some of the nuances.

For example, when whitewashing young trees, lime in a solution can be replaced with chalk. Solution should be thick and rich, not only the trunk should be covered, but also the skeletal branches. Exists several options for preparing a solution.

First- the cheapest and simplest - homemade solution. For it, you should take 2kg of lime + 400g of copper sulfate. Dissolve these components in 10 liters of water with the addition of paste for viscosity. You can also add 1 kg of clay and cow dung to this composition.

For young trees, paste cannot be used, their bark will not be able to breathe through the sticky barrier. For seedlings, it is better to prepare a mixture of lime (3 kg), clay (1.5 kg) and mullein (1 kg), which are dissolved in water until sour cream is thick.

Second option Is a store-bought mixture that also consists of clay and lime. However, this whitewash is very often washed off by the spring, therefore, it requires re-processing of the entire garden. The addition of carbolic acid to any solution will also protect trees from damage by rodents and hares.

Protecting the garden from insects

Winter Garden is a wintering place for various insects that lay their larvae in the bark, fallen leaves, in the nests of the crown of the tree.

For example, a small nest in the form of a shield on the surface of branches is a clutch of apple moths containing up to 80 eggs, small beads in the form of a ring on a branch are the offspring of a ringed silkworm, and dry leaves glued to the branches by cobwebs can be an excellent refuge for young caterpillars of the hawthorn and goldtail.

This is just a small list of garden pests, how can we protect it?

First of all it is necessary to remove the entire area from excess debris and fallen leaves. Remove dead bark from trees with iron brushes. It is worth making a deep (15–20 cm) digging of the soil in order to destroy the wintering grounds of some caterpillars.

Examine the fruit trees carefully, for some areas you may even need a magnifying glass. Clean the trunks of trapping belts, in which a large number of moth cocoons are concentrated. Spray all plantings with 3 or 5% urea solution. Protect trees from pests such as aphids, lungwort, silkworm, leafworm helps spraying with drugs"Bulldok", "Fury", "Agravertini".

Protects against diseases such as coccomycosis and other spots spraying with preparations containing copper: iron vitriol, Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride or fungicide preparations - "Kuproksat", "Topsin", "Horus". Treatment with "Impact", "Strobi" or "Skor" will help to get rid of scab and fruit rot. All wounds, cracks and hollows in the tree must be treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate and covered with cement.

Protecting the garden from rodents

Very great harm to the garden, especially to young seedlings, is caused by hares and small rodents. To protect trees from them, it is necessary wrap up the trunk old rags or burlap with roofing felt. Many gardeners even use women's nylon tights for this purpose. They are convenient for protecting branches.

Near the base, the protection must be well dug in with earth so that mice do not make their way. Branches of spruce or pine are perfect, they tie around the trunk and cover the peri-stem circle. The smell of coriander twigs scattered on the ground near the tree is also a good deterrent to mice.

Wrapping the garden will also save the trees from winter frosts. And if you also whitewash the bark (as discussed above in the article), then your garden will not be afraid of sunburn from winter rays.

You should know that if you use roofing material as an insulating material, then between it and the bark of the tree there must be a layer of burlap or rags. Otherwise, the tree will mate.

Pruning trees

Pruning fruit trees should be started after the foliage has dropped. Dates of the vary depending on the region where the garden is planted. In the southern regions, you can leave this event for October, and in the northern regions, you cannot delay it, so pruning is carried out at the end of September or, even better, it can be postponed until March.

Otherwise, the tree will not have time to prepare for winter due to increased sap flow. At late pruning, at the site of the wound, the wood dries and freezes, which often leads to the death of the tree.

So, let's get down to the features of this procedure. First of all dry and diseased branches are removed, followed by those that create excessive density, grow towards the trunk, at the wrong angle, intertwine with each other.

Trees that have not been pruned for many years must be thinned out in stages, over several years, starting with the largest branches and ending with small, improperly growing ones. If the tree is pruned too vigorously, it may no longer bear fruit or even die.

Young seedlings are not pruned in the fall. It is necessary to thin out the crown of young trees annually, this lays their shape and correct growth. For old trees, the event is held every 2-3 years to improve the circulation of air and light between the branches, as well as to obtain a larger and better harvest.

All wounds on the tree after the branches removed must be treated with garden varnish and covered with linseed oil or paint. All sawn and cut branches must be burned, since spores of various diseases and pests can be stored on them.

Fertilizing garden trees

Autumn feeding plays a more important role than spring or summer. Since it is in the fall that the strength of the tree is laid before the upcoming fruiting, its immunity is strengthened and its resistance to frost increases. Root dressing is applied along with the main fertilizer during the autumn digging of the soil, in the area of ​​the near-stem circle, no later than October.

For young trees, whose age has not reached 8 years, it will take about 30 kg of humus, and for adults - about 50 kg. In autumn, the most important elements are potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, calcium, iron and magnesium.

But feeding with manganese, boron, copper and cobalt is best done in reduced quantities. The ideal would be to make sure which elements the soil is lacking. But this is not always possible and convenient, so there are basic rules that you should adhere to.

For example, for feeding apple and pear trees, it is necessary with organic fertilizer add 300 g of superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate to the soil. These elements are better absorbed in liquid form by watering the periosteal circle.

For cherry and plum trees, top dressing is prepared from 3 tbsp. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water. It takes about 4 buckets of this liquid to feed one tree sufficiently. For sandy and sandy loam soils, large quantity elements of top dressing than for clay and loamy - heavier.

This is due to the fact that useful nutrients are more intensively washed out of light soils by precipitation and during irrigation. Since the beginning of fruiting, the garden needs more intensive nutrition in the fall. It is better to postpone fertilizing with nitrogen for the spring, since in autumn this element promotes increased sap flow, which adversely affects the wintering of the tree.

Watering garden trees

Autumn watering allowed only in regions with low rainfall. If the tree was watered abundantly in summer and autumn, and later it was also covered with earth, this leads to podoprevanie, and then cracking of the bark of the trunk, in places where moisture accumulates.

Do not forget that just as dangerous excess watering the lack of moisture in the soil before winter is also dangerous. If the tree has an urgent need for additional moisture, then the hardening process will be much more difficult, and the plant will not withstand frost to the extent it should.

Also, abundant summer watering leads to increased growth of shoots, which, growing up to 2 m, do not have time to grow stiff by winter and die from frost. Sometimes, in places where there is an excessive amount of moisture, it is allowed to sow annual grasses, and also the fight against weeds stops, which leads to the normalization of soil moisture. If the humidity of the region where the garden is planted is normal, then the last watering is required no later than October.

It is allowed to cover the base of trees with earth only in frost-prone and little snow areas, since, in combination with watering, this event can damage the tree more than protect it.

Besides, last water-charging autumn watering helps to strengthen the root system, eliminates the possibility of sunburn on the bark of the trunk and branches, and also provides a more successful growing season, replacing the first spring watering. Thanks to him root system the tree becomes more powerful, since in winter the tree extracts moisture from a depth of 0.5–2 m from the soil surface.

We were not mistaken, trees also need moisture in winter. When scheduling autumn watering, you should also take into account the depth of occurrence groundwater Location on. Since during water-charging irrigation, it is necessary to saturate the soil to a depth greater than the depth of the tree's root system.

But, unacceptable contact of ground and irrigation waters. The average norm for water-charging irrigation is about 10–16 buckets of water per 1 sq. M. soil.

If your garden has soil with shallow pebble deposits, as well as clay layers, then the last abundant watering is required only in especially dry autumn years, and usually amounts to no more than four buckets per 1 sq. M.

Digging a tree

Tillage in autumn is extremely important, and it cannot be replaced by spring tillage, as inexperienced summer residents often think. As a result of loosening, the soil is enriched with oxygen, the larvae and eggs of various pests that have lain down for the winter die, the roots and weed seeds decompose.

It is not recommended to break up large lumps of earth when digging, otherwise it will lead to freezing and weathering of the soil on the site. Also, you should not do late digging of a site with snow. This will lead to a slow warming up of it in the spring.

It is necessary to complete all activities of loosening and digging no later than the end of October. It should not be forgotten that the digging of young annual seedlings should not be carried out on great depth so as not to damage the roots.

And with systematic autumn loosening, there is evidence that the main mass of the roots of an apple tree is located on a seed stock within a radius of 20–60 cm, a plum tree on a clonal stock, and a cherry tree - on the horizon of 20–40 cm. Around the sea buckthorn trunk, digging is carried out by carefully loosening with a rake to a depth of about 7 cm, while trying not to touch the roots.

If you took a shovel in your hands, then it must be placed with an edge towards the trunk of the fruit tree. If the garden has not undergone systematic loosening, then the root system is pulled up to the surface, which creates the risk of damage and freezing in winter.

This can lead to the fact that the tree will find itself without a significant mechanism for obtaining nutrition and moisture, and the open wound surfaces of the roots will become a zone of penetration of all kinds of infections and diseases. You should also consider what is the composition of the soil in your garden. Light, loose, cultivated soil only needs loosening, and heavy, clayey requires deep digging.

Fallen leaves

Exists 2 options for how to deal with fallen leaves in the garden... Some summer residents believe that nothing needs to be done with it, because in wildlife no one removes the leaves, they rot by a natural process and serve as an excellent fertilizer in the future.

Others believe that fallen leaves are a huge risk of infection with various diseases and pests, since it is there that insect larvae and eggs overwinter and disease spores can remain, so it all must be removed and burned. Both are right.

Therefore, before deciding what to do with fallen leaves, you need to pay attention to whether your site was infected with any diseases and pests. Even so, by collecting the foliage in bags, you will prevent it from caking, and all pathogenic microbes will die from frost. In the spring, this foliage should be piled up for decay.

This process can be accelerated by periodic shoveling and watering with microorganisms that contribute to the formation of humus. If your trees are absolutely healthy, then the collected foliage can serve as an excellent shelter from the cold of the root system of trees, and then, a wonderful top dressing of the soil. In the presence of a large number of pests and diseases, it is better not to use fallen leaves, but to collect in a heap and burn.

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In the first years after planting fruit trees, for their successful growth and development, the near-trunk part of the soil is especially important - a circle with a diameter of 0.75-2 m. It is recommended to keep this soil in a loose and weed-free state. The soil is loosened with a garden hoe to a depth of 8-12 cm as needed: after rain, watering, soil compaction, fertilization, before mulching. If the soil around the tree is covered with mulch, then the latter is removed before loosening and then covered with it again. trunk circle.

In the spring, as soon as it is possible to work in the garden, the soil is first fertilized with mineral fertilizers, and then with a garden pitchfork or a shovel they are sealed to a depth of 10-12 cm throughout the entire near-trunk area. In autumn, the soil must be dug at a distance of more than 1 m from the tree to a depth of 18-20 cm (with a seam turnover), and at a distance of up to 1 m - to a depth of 10-12 cm (without a seam turnover, that is, deep loosening). A pitchfork or a shovel is placed with its edge against the tree so as not to cut large roots.

Apple and pear trees grafted onto low-growing rootstocks, like cherry and plum trees, have roots closer to the soil surface. Therefore, the soil around such trees is dug to a shallower (8-10 cm) depth. In the fall, mulch is usually embedded in the soil during its digging, and in the spring a new one is introduced after digging.

Under the crowns of young trees in the first five to seven years, you can plant or sow vegetables, potatoes; herbs are not recommended, since trees have weak roots, they are very demanding on water and nutrients. However, for the prevention of pest and disease control, planting of garlic and onions is allowed on the trunk area.

In the year of planting and the first years after it, young trees especially need water. Therefore, in the first year after planting, the near-stem part is watered four to five times per season at the rate of two to three buckets per watering for each apple and pear tree and one or two buckets for cherries and plums. In subsequent years, watering is carried out less often. It is not recommended to pour water on the root collar of the tree or allow it to be in the water.

Irrigation methods can be different: sprinkling through water sprinklers, into pits or circular grooves arranged at a distance of 1 m from the trunk over the entire area of ​​the trunk circle; water filling along the near-trunk circle; underground watering; drip irrigation. The choice of irrigation method depends on technical capabilities.

The aisles of a young garden can be used for growing vegetables, potatoes, strawberries. However, vegetables and strawberries are best grown in a vegetable-strawberry crop rotation. The strips should be kept in a weed-free condition, loose and fertilized (even covered with mulching material organic).

For inter-row crops, the soil must be prepared in advance and fertilized. Watering, loosening, removing weeds. Vegetables, potatoes and strawberries can also be grown on the slopes between the rows. If sowing or planting of these crops is carried out on ridges, then the ridges should be directed across the slope to avoid soil washout. The near-stem stripes in such gardens are sown with perennial grasses: white or red clover, meadow fescue, etc. The grass is mowed as it grows to a height of 12-15 cm and the mowed mass is left in place as mulch.

Since the aisles of a young garden are usually used for growing vegetables, potatoes, strawberries, it is impossible to use herbicides in them to control weeds. It is also undesirable to apply herbicides in the rows of trees if onions and garlic are planted under the trees.

In a young garden, turf strips are allowed if the garden is located on a slope. In other cases, sowing of perennial grasses is possible in the 8-10th year after planting the garden. For sowing, take 5-6 g of white clover seeds, 20 g of meadow fescue or 15 g of red fescue and 5-6 g of meadow bluegrass per 10 square meters. sowing area. Before sodding, the soil is leveled, loosened, fertilized, and after sowing, it is rolled up. Sown in moist soil better in spring... Mineral fertilizers are applied superficially before sowing and after regrowth of grass stand: phosphorus-potassium fertilizers - in the fall, nitrogen - in the spring.

Top dressing is carried out in spring and summer: urea is used to spray trees with a solution at a concentration of 0.2% (20 g per bucket of water). In the fall, just before the fall of leaves, trees are sprayed with a 4-5% urea solution. Such spraying is not so much a top dressing as a measure to combat apple scab and other fruit crops.

For soils with an average level of fertility (100 g of topsoil - at a depth of 20-25 cm - contain 10-15 mg of mobile phosphorus and 12-18 mg of exchangeable potassium), approximate doses of fertilizers for young gardens can be recommended: urea 20 g, granular superphosphate 30 g, potassium chloride 15 g per square meter. If the soil is poor, then the dose of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be doubled. For the first four to five years, fertilizer is applied to the trunk circle. Then the application zone is expanded, scattering them around the tree along the projection of the crown. Fertilizers are covered by digging up the soil, but so as not to severely damage the roots: in the trunk - smaller, to the periphery of the crown - deeper.