Installation of metal roofing – laying technology. Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles using special technology from A to Z Installing a warm roof made of metal tiles

Metal tiles are a facing material made of thin-sheet galvanized steel. It is manufactured in the form of profiled metal sheets with a characteristic appearance, imitating the structure of natural tiles.

Profiling is carried out by giving the sheets a wavy or trapezoidal shape, which significantly increases the performance characteristics of the material. One of the leaders on the market at the moment is metal tiles and...

Before we begin installing a roof under metal tiles, let’s look at the roofs.

TO advantages of the material can be attributed:

Light weight.
High wear resistance.
Fire resistance.
Relative ease of installation.
Good potential for implementing design solutions.

There are also minor flaws, which can be eliminated with proper planning and execution of work:

Low sound insulation: during precipitation and strong winds, metal tiles create an increased noise level. The disadvantage is offset by the use of good sound insulation, the function of which is usually performed by a thermal insulation layer.
Condensation may form in the interior of the roof; to avoid this, you need to take care of the arrangement and.

Installation of metal roofing: technology and design choice

Roofing pie is a structure made of materials that fill the roof space layer by layer.

The construction of a metal roof depends on the type of roof, which can be warm or cold. Cold roof- this is a roof without laying insulating layers, it is appropriate in cases where the house has an attic, and insulation can be laid in its ceiling. Warm roof necessary when the living space is located directly under the roof.

Cold roof design

A cold roof under metal tiles has only two main layers: metal roofing and to prevent condensation.

The covering and waterproofing are separated from each other by lathing and counter lathing. Ventilation is provided at the roof ridge (the point where the slopes meet); this is necessary to allow air to enter the interior space and to ensure the evaporation of accumulated water.

The waterproofing layer is made of PVC membranes or polyethylene films. When laying it full tension is unacceptable film, you should leave it sagging by 20-25 millimeters - this will improve its conductivity and facilitate the drainage of moisture.

The waterproofing is attached to the rafters with a construction stapler and fixed under the sheathing using self-tapping screws.

Thus, the cold roof structure will consist of next layers(in order of distance from the ceiling):

Waterproofing.
Counter-lattice.
Lathing.
Metal tiles.

Cold roof device

The warm roof pie contains more layers.

Attic roof installation

The main structure here is the insulation; it fills most of the space between the rafters and performs soundproofing functions. Its thickness depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and on the characteristics of the building, most often it is 15 cm or more. Fire resistance is one of the most important characteristics of insulation.

Thermal insulation is laid in the spaces of the grids formed by the rafters.

The most common materials for insulation include:

extruded polystyrene foam;
Styrofoam;
glass wool;
basalt;
expanded clay

Another necessary element of the warm roof “pie” is the vapor barrier layer. He protects insulation from condensation penetrating from the side of the room.

The vapor barrier is attached to the rafters using a stapler. She must be below the thermal insulation layer.

Vapor barrier films are made on the basis of polyethylene, polypropylene, and isospan.

Waterproofing is a necessary design not only in cold roofs, but also in warm ones. The principles of its selection and installation are the same for both varieties.

Final roof structure made of metal tiles will have the following ordered layers:

Bottom sheathing (isolates the vapor barrier from the thermal insulation).
Counter-lattice.
Lathing.
Metal tiles.

The middle position of the insulation between the outer and inner protective layers provides it with maximum safety and wear resistance.

Metal roofing: technology for creating an insulated roof

Between all layers should be left small gaps to create natural ventilation.

Dense filling of the space between the rafters is the key to the reliability and durability of the roof. Insufficient layer thickness cake will lead to the formation of large empty spaces, accumulating moisture and reducing the performance properties of the coating.

The other extreme should also be avoided - too thick layers, since in this case the ventilation will be blocked.

Installation of metal roofing over wooden sheathing

The main purpose of the lathing is roof frame support formed by the rafters. Waterproofing and metal tiles are attached to it, it creates a natural ventilation internal roof space.

There are two types of lathing - solid and sparse. In a solid structure, all the boards are adjacent to each other, which provides increased strength of the frame, but significantly increases the cost of material.

In sparse lathing, the boards are located at a certain distance from each other.

Average optimal value The tilt angle is 22 degrees, the minimum is 14 degrees. A lower value does not provide sufficient structural strength and does not make it possible to use the attic space.
High angle tilt increases the volume of attic space, but it has a drawback - the windage of the structure increases, that is, its exposure to wind.
The optimal value of the indicator can be calculated independently. To do this, you need to find one-half of the width of the gable, divide this number by the desired roof height and calculate the sine of the division result.

Rafter system constructed from metal or wooden beams. This main roof frame, the operational potential of the entire structure will depend on the reliability of its device. To create a roof made of metal tiles, wooden beams are usually used.

Installation of rafter beams

It is a system of supports that are fastened to each other in various ways depending on the roof structure, the number of slopes and their angles. The lathing is attached to this system, which is an additional, secondary frame.

Fastening metal tiles to the structure

Sheets of metal profiles are attached to the sheathing. For this purpose they are used roofing screws, which are screwed into the cavity of the tile wave using an electric drill.

As a rule, fastening begins. When performing work, you should move along the profile with great care, as the material is easily pressed.

After completing the fastening of the tiles, you can begin installation additional elements.

These are the main stages of installing metal tile roofs.

Working with this material is relatively simple; the main difficulties are associated with ensuring good ventilation and protecting the roof from moisture and wind.

Useful video

Installation of metal tiles using a practical example:

Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bituminous shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical characteristics make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;

It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.

simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
wide range of color solutions;
the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased noise levels on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.

Looking at photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
internal and external valleys;
other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, metal tile eaves, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.

Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.

So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:

presence of polymers;
how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
manufacturer's name;
sheet thickness.

During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.

Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a large manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.

Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow for proper installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.

Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands

In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

screwdriver;
electric drill;
scissors for cutting metal;
yardstick;
hammer;
marker;
mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection of the face and hands (goggles, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. itself, you will also need fastening elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.

How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work to be carried out before proceeding to installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.

This “pie” is the most effective roof thermal insulation system that metal tile installation technology allows. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules

Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:

There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;

The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.

Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need to completely replace the entire roofing covering.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

installation must be done from the bottom up;
a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, we can consider the case when a dormer window is installed. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. Bright polyurethane foam is used as an auxiliary material, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:

For different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare different lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
Before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective coating, since this may be impossible to do in the future.

It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a metal roof covering

After studying the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal tiles is a polymer material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. The use of aggressive chemicals is strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.

Provided that these simple but extremely important rules are followed, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.

Taking these simple rules into account, as well as acting in accordance with the technology for laying metal tiles, you can make a beautiful and reliable roof yourself.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.

In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow retainers for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget-friendly options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal roof, screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in metal tiles

It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tiles if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.

Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for roofing. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

aesthetic appeal;
weather resistance;
affordable price;
lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness but are quite large in size, there is still a risk of damaging them if installed carelessly. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

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Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

An edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used as lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Pass-through type snow guards are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

One of the important stages of building a house is the installation of the roof and roofing (roofing work). One of the popular roofing materials is metal tiles. And it’s not surprising, because among its advantages are light weight, ease of installation, a wide range of colors, and durability.

Of course, there are also disadvantages - low rigidity, which makes movement on the roof problematic, and significant waste of material when laid on slopes with complex geometry, poor sound insulation, and heating. All of them can be eliminated; for example, the susceptibility of metal to corrosion can be reduced if metal tiles are installed correctly.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation

Metal roof installation

The manufacturer has already taken care of protecting the metal tiles by creating a multi-layer roofing structure (see figure).

As you can see, the presence of several layers of protective coating allows us to say that the tiles are made of high-quality material. Therefore, in order for the roof under such a covering to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to the technology of installing metal tiles.

Basis of choice - parameters of metal tiles:

Metal tile thickness. Metal tiles are made from thin sheet steel. The thickness of the metal tile sheet is 0.5-0.7 mm, this is noted in SNiP II-26-76 “Roofs”.

Please note that low-quality metal bends under strong pressure.

Thickness of the zinc layer of metal tiles. This parameter cannot be visually tracked. Therefore, read the passport for the coil of metal from which the sheets are rolled. According to the standard, the thickness of the protective coating should be 275 g/m2. If this requirement is not met, it may lead to the result shown in the photo.

The thickness of the metal tile coating depends on the type (type) of the coating.

Leaf geometry. Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the sheets are not only cut evenly, but also do not have any bends along the covering side.

The tight fit of the edges is shown in the photo.

If the geometry of the sheet is poor, the result will be noticeable visually. At best, the joint will be unsightly. In the worst case, water will flow under the sheet. And don’t even expect to tighten such an edge with self-tapping screws.

Metal tile color. Plays an important role in the case of gradual development. That is, when you need to select a shade. In principle, there are two color coding systems, and if you know your color, you can choose the appropriate one.

Types of metal tile coatings

PE (polyester) is applied with a thickness of 20-25 microns. Its disadvantage is its rapid but uniform burnout. And also that the snow does not linger on the smooth surface of the sheet.

PEMA (polyester matte). Its layer is 35 microns. It is more resistant to fading and mechanical damage. The rough surface prevents snow from sliding down quickly. In principle, matte finishes virtually eliminate the need for snow guards.

PU (pural) and PUMA (Pural matt - matte pural). Coating thickness 50 microns. This coating can be used in regions with aggressive environments.

PVC (Plastisol). In metal tiles with such a coating, the metal core is the most protected, since the layer is from 100 to 200 microns.

Calculation of metal roof tiles

Let us illustrate an example of calculating metal tiles for a gable roof with a slope measuring 8 by 5.

The calculation of the number of sheets of metal tiles required to cover a rectangular slope is calculated as follows - the length of the slope along the ridge divided by the width of the sheet.

Nuance. When making calculations, rely on the working width. That is, taking into account overlaps. The sheet dimensions for Monterey metal tiles are shown in the photo.

For example, the length of the slope is 8 m.p. Then you will need 7.27 sheets for work. Round up to the nearest 8 sheets. For two slopes - 15 sheets. Because one sheet is divided in half and used on the second slope.

Nuance. In this case, you will need to start work with half a sheet.

For the convenience of calculating more complex configurations of slopes, you can use the constructor (calculator).

You can make drawings of the roof slopes and draw a diagram for laying metal tiles, i.e. arrangement of sheets.

Nuance. The more complex the slope configuration, the more material waste there will be.

The length of one sheet of metal tile is determined by the height of the slope plus the eaves overhang (about 5 cm). It should be taken into account that the longer the sheet, the less material will be used for overlap. But it is difficult to work with a long sheet, and transporting large metal sheets is expensive. Therefore, it is recommended to break a sheet more than 6 m long into parts. To do this correctly, you need to adjust the resulting length by the amount of overlap. The overlap should be at least 0.15 m for slopes with an inclination angle of more than 25° and 0.2 m for smaller angles. For our example. 5 m.p. divide in half - we will need 1 sheet 2.5 m long, and the second 2.65.

At the same time, the manufacturing technology of metal tiles is such that there are impossible dimensions. Each manufacturer has their own and depends on the equipment used.

Then for the entire roof you need to buy 15 sheets of 2.5 m each and 15 sheets of 2.65 m each.

Calculation of the number of additional elements for metal tiles.

The components include a ridge strip, end and cornice strips, a snow retainer, internal and external valleys.

Calculating additional elements is simple - the total length of the surface to be covered is divided by 1.9 m.p. – (2 m. standard length of the strip, minus an overlap of 0.1 m). For the lower valley divided by 1.7. The overlap is 0.3 m.

For our gable roof we need 5 ridge strips (the length of the slope along the ridge is 8 m.); 9 cornice strips ((8+8)/1.9); 11 end. Due to the design of the roof, we do not need a valley.

Special strips. These are custom-made additional elements according to your size.

Self-tapping screws. Their consumption is 7-8 pcs. per sq.m. metal tiles and 3 pcs. by 1 m.p. additional element. The screws should be with a drill, this will simplify installation, and preferably painted in the color of the sheet. This will give the coating a more finished look.

We will need 768 pcs. for sheets and 3x(5+9+11) = 834 pcs. They are usually sold in packs of 250 pieces. Naturally, it is better to take it with a reserve.

Sealing tape for metal tiles. It is recommended to install it under the ridge strip.

The film is equal to the total area of the slopes minus the overlap allowances. For example, a roll of film usually measures 1.5 by 50 m. = 75 sq.m. The working area of the film is about 65 square meters.

The insulation under the metal tiles is also equal to the total area of the slopes.

The following tools will be useful: a screwdriver, a hammer, a mallet, a tape measure, a marker, a level, a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

Advice. Cutting a sheet of metal tile with a grinder is strictly prohibited. When heated, the coating at the cut site is destroyed and the sheet begins to rust. In addition, sparks can damage the paint throughout the entire sheet.

How to store metal tiles

If you purchased the material before you built the rafter system, you need to know how to properly store metal tiles (especially in winter). The sheets must be laid on a flat area, preferably on a pallet. In addition, it is important to protect the metal from moisture, ultraviolet radiation and provide ventilation. If the sheets will be stored for more than a month, they need to be laid as shown in the photo.

Additional strips are also stored in a lying position.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation

1. Construction of a rafter system for metal tiles

Installation of metal tiles begins at the stage of lathing installation. It is important to initially secure the sheathing boards at the required distance. Namely, the distance between the first and second boards is 300 mm, then 350 mm, 350 mm is the distance from one bend of the sheet to the next. In professional language, the distance is called a tile.

2. Checking the size of the slope

The main thing is that the roof slopes are smooth and flat.

3. Attaching the eaves strip for metal tiles

The eaves board directs water flowing from the roof into the drainage system.

4. Laying a hydrobarrier film under metal tiles

To prevent the attic from getting wet in case of sudden rain, and also to further protect the insulation from getting wet, a water barrier film is used.

The waterproofing film under the metal tiles is laid on the rafter system in accordance with the description, which contains installation instructions. To avoid leakage, it is necessary to ensure an overlap of the film of at least 10 cm. For sloping slopes, at least 25 cm. For hip roofs, up to 50 cm (in the roof ridges). The film is secured with a construction stapler.

At the exit points of the chimney, antenna, etc. you need to extend the film 4-5 cm onto these elements.

5. Installation of counter-lattice under metal tiles

The counter grille is needed to provide a ventilation gap between the film and the metal tile sheet. Otherwise, at the junction of the film and the metal, it will quickly lose its properties.

For installation, a rail with a cross section of 30 mm and a length of 135 cm is used.

Nuance. When using a high-permeability superdiffusion membrane, a counter-lattice is not needed.

6. Installation of the lower valley

A valley for metal tiles is installed if the roof configuration requires it.

Nuance. It is better to install the lower valley not with screws, but with a clamp. This way it will maintain its integrity, which will reduce the likelihood of leaking. You can make your own kleimer from scrap metal.

7. Installation of the first sheet of metal tiles

To avoid deformation, the sheet is lifted onto the roof using runners (see photo).

Nuance. It is better not to install sheets in strong winds. Loose sheets may bend.

Installation is carried out from right to left, so that each subsequent sheet covers the groove for water drainage on the previous one.

The bottom row of sheets must be mounted so that the sheet hangs over the edge of the rafter system by 50 mm. (this is why the distance between the first and second sheathing boards should be 300 mm, not 350). This is necessary to ensure ventilation and ease of water drainage.

Methods for installing metal tiles are shown in the diagram

The technology for laying metal tiles involves aligning the first sheet along the end of the slope and the eaves. If everything is correct, the sheet is attached to the top using one self-tapping screw. The second sheet is installed with the same requirements and secured to the first sheet. After all the rows are aligned along the eaves overhang, the sheets are firmly attached to the sheathing.

You need to move around while performing roofing work. Therefore, it is better to wear shoes with soft soles and step only at the bottom of the wave.

If during the installation process you need to cut the sheet, it is better to paint the cut area with special paint.

After installing the sheet, you need to remove the protective film from it (if any). Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, it will crumble and have an ugly appearance. In addition, it will be much more difficult to remove.

8. Fastening metal tiles

Metal tiles are fastened with special self-tapping screws. The presence of a rubber seal allows you to tighten the screw as tightly as possible without deforming the sheet itself.

The scheme for fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws is through one wave.

Nuance. Along the length of the end, a self-tapping screw is attached to each tile.

Many people advise mounting the self-tapping screw down the wave. It is not right. Because water flows along the tile gutter, which means that the slightest violation during installation is fraught with the appearance of rust.

The photo below shows that the screw needs to be moved a little to the right.

It is also important to tighten the screw correctly. The fastening rules are shown in the figure.

9. Installation of additional elements

9.1 Installation of valley metal tiles. Depending on the roof structure, an upper valley is installed. When attaching it, try to tighten the screws so that they do not get on the lower screws. If clamps were used, this requirement is omitted.

9.2 Installation of a wind strip on a metal tile. Regardless of the roof configuration, an end (wind) strip must be installed. The overlap of the planks is 10-15 cm. They are fastened with long self-tapping screws. At the rate of 1 self-tapping screw per 1 m.p. planks. The wind strip is laid on top of the tile sheet and fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides.

9.3 Installation of the ridge strip of metal tiles depends on its configuration. When installing a round ridge strip, you need to close the ends with special plugs.

The broken strip fits more tightly to the sheets, so a plug is not needed.

You can protect the ridge of metal tiles from snow and moisture by laying a special ridge sealing tape (ridge seal).

9.4 Next, we install aprons (junction strips) for the metal tiles near the pipes or the junction strip of the slope to the wall. To do this, the wall needs to be grooved 1-1.5 cm. Insert a strip into the resulting strip, and treat the installation site with sealant. It should be noted that the sealant will deteriorate. Therefore, the junction needs to be inspected from time to time and sealed in a new way.

Nuance. It is prohibited to insert the abutment strip into the masonry joint; this may compromise the integrity of the wall. And then the manufacture of a reliable structure at the junction will turn into sabotage.

9.5 Installation of snow guards on metal tiles. Lastly, we install snow retention strips on the sheet of metal tiles. They are simply necessary if the metal tiles are covered with polyester.

Snow guards for metal roofs may have the appearance shown in the photo.

Snow guards are often reinforced with an additional strip.

Its cost is low, and the strength of the snow holder increases significantly.

The choice of plank depends on the preferences of the owner, as well as on the intensity of snowfall and the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

How to install snow guards on metal tiles?

The snow retainer bar is located parallel to the cornice in one row or two rows, in a checkerboard pattern.

10. Roof insulation, installation of vapor barrier film and interior decoration

Installation of metal tiles - video instructions

Mistakes when installing metal tiles

In conclusion, I would like to briefly remind you of the most common mistakes in installing metal tiles:

an uneven slope will result in a lumpy leaf;

Incorrectly cut sheets can quickly rust. Therefore, do not use an angle grinder;

incorrectly screwed screws lead to deformation of the sheet;

you need to use only high-quality self-tapping screws with a special rubber seal;

saving on high-quality seals leads to snow being blown into the roofing pie or moisture getting in;

it is better to inspect the sheet several times for scratches and paint it with special paint in time, rather than then admire the rusty streaks;

use special (custom-made) additional elements if the standard ones do not completely cover the openings. Their production will cost you less than the subsequent replacement of an entire assembly or roofing materials;

do not buy long sheets of metal tiles. Metal has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that the sheet will play and over time the screws in it will become loose. Therefore, cut the sheet into several parts;

on the other hand, the more joints, the greater the likelihood of leakage. Therefore, stick to the golden mean;

maintain the correct amount of overlap.

As you can see, the installation of metal tiles can be done independently. By adhering to certain rules, laying metal tiles on the roof will be successful and in a short time.

Installation of metal tiles with your own hands - instructions, calculations, video technology

Installation of a metal tile roof - step-by-step instructions for laying metal tiles and additional elements with your own hands. Installation technology, fastening diagram, calculation, sheathing arrangement, hydraulics

Metal roofing technology. Installation instructions. Cutting metal tiles, screws for metal tiles

Over the past decades, metal roofing has occupied a leading position. Lightness, strength and ease of installation are the main advantages of this material. The technology for installing a metal roof is quite simple and can be done by anyone who cares about a warm and cozy home.

Preparing for work

The roof is a multi-layer element, and it is necessary to take a responsible approach to performing each type of work, observing technology. First, it is important to determine what kind of roof you need: warm or cold. If the house has one floor and there is no attic, from an economic point of view a cold one is the best option. If you have two floors and the second is under the roof, in this case it is necessary to install a warm roof.

The technology for installing a metal tile roof depends on what type, warm or cold, you need. Naturally, a warm roof requires a lot of labor and additional materials. Therefore, let’s focus on it first.

Warm roof installation

A distinctive feature of this design is the installation of a vapor barrier layer. For this purpose, it is better to use rolled membranes than polyethylene film. They are not sealed, so moist air passes freely without accumulating. The membranes are laid on the rafters from bottom to top. The layers are overlapped, fixed quite tightly with nails, and the seams are taped with construction tape.

The technology for installing a metal tile roof involves installing thermal insulation after vapor barrier. For this, any type of insulation is used: glass wool or mineral wool. Glass wool is inexpensive and does not burn, but can cause skin irritation. Mineral wool is also not subject to combustion, has a low cost and does not cause allergies. Cotton wool is sold in rolls; it is convenient to lay it between the rafters. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, then this must be done so that the joints of the first layer overlap the second, this ensures the elimination of possible leaks of cold air.

The next stage in the metal roofing technology is the installation of waterproofing. The need for its arrangement is explained by the fact that condensation forms on the inside of the tiles. To prevent it from getting on the insulation, it is necessary to lay waterproofing. It can be used as a film; it has low cost and good performance characteristics. Lay it on the rafters and secure it with nails.

When installing a cold structure, the technology for installing a metal roof does not change; the difference is that the insulation is not laid on the rafters, but in the attic. In this case, the house itself is protected from heat loss, and the roof is freely ventilated.

Characteristics of metal tiles

A tile sheet consists of a layer of steel, which is coated on both sides with a galvanized layer to prevent moisture, followed by a layer of polymer on the inside and outside. The thickness of this layer determines parameters such as durability and reliability. The type of polymer coating of tiles can be smooth or textured and consist of polyvinyl chloride, polyurethane, acrylate. The cost of metal tiles depends on the thickness of the protective layer, color, shape, as well as the country of origin.

Any sheet of tile, regardless of manufacturer, has two sizes: nominal and effective. Laying of metal tiles is done with an overlap. When purchasing, it is necessary to take into account this size, and not the nominal one.

Rules for arranging lathing

The level of roofing work depends on the quality of the lathing. As a rule, a lathing made of wooden beams measuring 50*50 mm and a wooden board are used for metal tiles. First, control sheathing is performed along the cornice, pediment and ridge. To do this, use a wooden board and nails of considerable length with a galvanized layer. The installation instructions for metal tiles and technology require that the surface be perfectly flat. Therefore, it is necessary to make markings for the sheathing. The first step is taken less than all the others, because it must be remembered that a drain runs along the eaves, and the bottom row of tiles should leave two-thirds of its width. The fastening step depends on the width of the metal tile. After marking is completed, the wooden beams are laid horizontally to the rafters.

Metal roofing: installation and calculation

After completing the lathing, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material required. To do this, first determine the height and width of each roof slope separately. The tiles are calculated individually for each one. If the roof has a complex configuration and has small slopes, then the tiles will have to be cut, which leads to damage to the protective layer and the occurrence of corrosion. To avoid this, cutting metal tiles should be carried out carefully, using a special tool. After determining the area of each slope, the number of required sheets of tiles is calculated according to the effective size. Standard sheets have a different number of waves: 10, 6, 3 and 1. Therefore, from the point of view of maintaining tightness, it is better to purchase sheets of the greatest width, although their installation is a little more complicated. The installation instructions for metal tiles allow for a combination of sheets with different numbers of waves.

Ideally, a tile roof should be covered with sheets with a minimum number of seams, since they significantly affect the tightness. You can buy metal tiles for a specific slope size, but the cost in this case will be slightly higher than the standard one.

If the roof is gable, i.e. simple, calculating the required number of tiles is quite simple. To do this, the height and width of each slope are determined, the area is calculated, summed up and 10% is added. It is also necessary to calculate the length of the constituent elements, such as valleys and strips for joining sheets.

The metal tiles are fastened using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in overlapping every meter using a rubber gasket. If the roof is simple and the tile sheet is selected to match the size of the slope, then installation is carried out from the ridge down, checking the level relative to the end. If the height of the roof exceeds the length of the tile sheet, then installation begins from the bottom up. First, the sheets are joined along the length, then they are aligned along the end.

Installation of additional roofing elements

If the installation of metal tiles is completed, proceed to installing the end strips. They are fastened with self-tapping screws every 50 centimeters with an overlap of at least 5 centimeters. The ridge is also attached using self-tapping screws to the top bar.

To ventilate the roof, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts, the exit under which is laid at the stage of installation of the rafters. The ventilation pipe is attached to a sheet of metal tile, in which a hole is first made. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws for metal tiles, and then the seams are additionally treated with silicone.

The sewer outlet is connected to the riser in the house and leads to the roof. The process of installing this outlet is similar to installing a ventilation duct.

If necessary, additional elements are installed on the roof, such as stairs, roof fencing and walkways.

An element that must be installed is a snow guard. Usually it is equipped above the exit, window opening. If desired, the structure can be installed along the entire perimeter and where there is an abutment of metal tiles to another level of the roof.

Drainage system design

Equally important is the design of the drainage system. Gutters are mounted along the entire cornice, held in place by holders. The holders are attached to the wooden cornice during the lathing stage. They are mounted with a slope. According to the technology, outlet funnels must be installed every 10 meters, which are fixed with flanges. Fastening gutters or corners to each other is done using overlapping connectors with a margin of 3 centimeters.

Features of the material

This roofing material has a fragile outer coating, so when laying metal tiles it is necessary to avoid scratches and damage to the polymer layer. If this cannot be avoided, it is necessary to use a special paint that will prevent corrosion from developing further. Also, due to its small thickness, it requires additional sound insulation.

Advantages of tiles

However, this material has much more advantages. A variety of colors and shapes allow you to give your roof a flawless look. Despite the large size of the sheets, they weigh little, and fastening of metal tiles is done quite quickly at any time of the year. The use of tiles provides a significantly smaller number of joints and seams, which cannot be achieved when using slate. A roof made in accordance with all technological requirements will be airtight and will not require additional repairs for many years.

Metal roofing technology

Design and components of metal roofing

Roofing is the upper element of the entire roof, designed to protect the structure from precipitation. Installing a roof made of metal tiles will not only resist precipitation, but also resist other adverse environmental factors. To perform its functions, such a coating must meet certain requirements, and its installation must be carried out in strict accordance with technology.

Why metal tiles are the rationale for choosing

The choice of material for roofing is always related to the degree to which the basic requirements for the roof are met.

The main requirements are:

resistance to precipitation;
resistance to the effects of low temperatures (in winter) and high temperatures (in summer) - the choice of material depends on climatic conditions;
solar radiation;
precipitation from acid rain;
high level of resistance to mechanical stress during operation and repair.

The roofing material must meet the requirements of maintainability, be reliable and durable.

Metal tile sheets

Metal tile sheets satisfy all of the above requirements in full. Profiled sheets with a wavy corrugated shape imitate the surface of ceramic tiles, inheriting its basic technical properties and characteristics. Metal tiles are made from hot-dip galvanized sheets 0.5-0.7 mm thick with a polymer coating in accordance with GOST R 52146 and TU 14-1-4792. The choice of such a base allows you to achieve a high level of strength and reliability of the material.

The production technology involves obtaining profiling by rolling, which allows us to guarantee the correct shape of all finished products without exception.

The composition of the metal tile sheet includes special layers of substances and chemical elements that provide a high level of protection against corrosion. In addition, the use of modern polymers makes it possible to perform a decorative function.

Metal roofing is used for pitched roofs (slope greater than 12°).

The main advantage of this material is its own weight. Despite the insulation and waterproofing, the weight of the roof will remain the lightest compared to other roofing materials.

Basic rules for selecting elements for roof installation

For the construction of the roof, the main material used is sheets of metal tiles, as well as components. A mandatory element of technologically correct installation is the use of anti-condensation films and heat-insulating material.

The main criteria for selecting metal tiles is the height of the corrugation, the standard size of which is in the range of 10 - 25 mm.

The height of the corrugation, as well as the type and color of the polymer coating on the front side of the surface of the building material, is chosen based on aesthetic tastes and architectural design requirements.

When choosing, special attention should be paid to the thickness of the sheet. To ensure that deformation does not occur during operation, when installing a metal tile roof, a material with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm is used.

Among modern thermal insulation materials intended for the implementation of such tasks, slabs consisting of fibrous and foam plastic materials with a cement binder are most often used. In addition, fill-in thermal insulation materials can additionally be used - shungizite, expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite.

Anti-condensation film

Anti-condensation films are usually made of vapor-proof, moisture-absorbing material.

To protect the attic from moisture that can penetrate from outside the building, anti-condensation film is made from moisture-absorbing non-woven material. The film is laid under the roof and its main purpose is to prevent condensation from draining onto the thermal insulation. The mechanism of action is based on the properties of a moisture-absorbing, quick-drying material.

To protect the thermal insulation of buildings with high humidity from condensation, anti-oxidant films made of vapor-proof material are chosen.

The installation of under-roof anti-condensation films is mandatory. The technical conditions for choosing the material are clarified based on local conditions at the stage of project adjustment.

At the joints (alignment) of sheets, passage points, as well as the exit of the chimney, roofing components are used on the resulting sections of the coating material. Additional elements are designed to hide the raw edges of the metal, the resulting cracks and gaps. When using roofing components, the technical characteristics of the integrity of the coating are maintained (reliability and strength), and the aesthetics of appearance (attractiveness and neatness) are also significantly improved.

The construction of a metal tile roof requires a set of the following additional accessories:

ridge strips, cornice strips, end strips, for seams, external and internal corners, joints, etc.;
snow retainer;
valleys;
pass-through elements;
sheet for covering external recesses;
outlet pipe.

In order to secure sheets of metal tiles, the following types of strips and parts are used:

ridge strip on Monterrey profile;
end on the ridge strip (for a hip roof, end on the ridge strip and a “U” shaped strip for the end of a hip roof);
end strip 50×50 mm (103×115 mm);
cornice strip for metal tiles;
strip for internal seams and joints;
for external corners;
for internal corners;
with internal and external corners;
for seams and joints;
top bar;
lateral;
plank for guttering.

Components for metal roofing are used in full and without fail. Refusal of accessories and additional elements can lead to improper installation of the roof, and therefore to a reduction in its service life.

Installation technology and work stages

Installing a roof is a complex and labor-intensive process, which is quite difficult to carry out without the advice of specialists and the help of an experienced partner.

Installation work begins with measuring the slopes. In this case, the perpendicularity of the ends of the roof is established in relation to the lines of the eaves and ridge.

The lathing is made of boards with a section of 32x100 mm. The distance between the ribs of the sheathing should be equal to 350 mm (equal dimensions between the ribs of the metal tile). The distance from the outer edge of the cornice board is about 300 mm.

If the size of the transverse ribs of the metal tile differs from the standard, then the sheathing is arranged according to the new dimensions.

Metal roofing technology requires compliance with the following conditions:

Ribbed cladding boards, as well as wooden material at the end sections (outermost ones on the eaves) are placed higher than other boards.
The edges of the metal tile sheets are covered with continuous sheathing of boards.
Installation of sheets begins from the end sections.
All overlaps are performed at the transverse border of the sheet, maintaining a length of approximately 250 mm.
The ridge is covered with special additional accessories - ridge elements with a seal. The semi-cylindrical shape facilitates more dense laying of metal tile profile sheets on the upper ends.
On the cold inner surface of metal tiles they create conditions for ventilation under the roof. To prevent the formation of condensation from the eaves to the ridge, roll material is placed under the sheathing.
The roof valley is made using a special valley element. To do this, an intermediate structure is mounted on the casing, on which a valley element is attached.
The gaps under the ridge, between the sheets and the valley element are sealed using special sealing tapes, or silicone or any other curing sealant.
The sheets are fastened with bolts or screws in accordance with the diagrams.

When carrying out any installation work, you should wear shoes with soft soles. It is important to try to step only into the deflection of the wave and in the areas of the sheathing.

The installation of a metal tile roof must be carried out in strict accordance with all stages of the work.

To prepare the roof for installation, it is necessary to evaluate the integrity and evenness of the surface. In cases where defects and irregularities are identified, measures are first taken to eliminate them. They also check the correctness of the roof dimensions and shape; for this, the diagonals of the slopes are measured. If the distortion cannot be technically corrected, then the metal tiles are laid, aligning the lower edge of the sheathing with the overhang line of the building material.

The roofing material is laid from bottom to top, with the top sheet overlapping the bottom. Roof installation begins from the lower left corner. And in order for the cornice line to be straight, when carrying out installation work, special attention is paid to laying the first sheet.

Installation of additional elements

The technology for strengthening additional accessories and roofing elements when installing metal tiles has its own characteristics that must be taken into account.

The eaves strip for metal tiles is attached to the last board of the sheathing, and the overlap length of the strips is 100 mm. This fastening is carried out before installing the base material.

The end strips are attached along the gables from bottom to top. A special feature of this type of installation work is that the strips must cover the end edges of the sheets.

Ridge strips should be installed after installation of the roof, end strips, and sealing.

Roofing pie - structure and features of the device

As you know, a roof is a structure consisting of a different number of layers that perform different types of tasks. This set is called a roofing pie. A roofing pie for metal tiles, in most cases, consists of the following set of layers and elements:

metal tiles;
lathing (unedged board 25x100mm or timber 40x50);
counter lathing (25x100mm unedged board);
waterproofing (diffusion membrane);
vapor barrier;
insulation (basalt slab 150mm);
rafter (wooden beam 50x100 or 100x150);
connecting tape (double-sided tape);
round drainage gutter;
hook for attaching the gutter;
front board (wooden 30x150 edged);
wind bar;
skate;
ventilation ridge in waterproofing;
ventilation holes in the profile seal;
ventilation gap between waterproofing.

The roofing pie option is determined individually depending on the type of roof and is recorded in the design documentation.

Roofing pie for various types of roofs

For a cold roof, the roofing pie for metal tiles consists of load-bearing structures, metal tiles, counter lathing and gyro-insulating film. The installation of such a film has some peculiarities. It is fastened with the staples of a stapler (construction) and pressed with self-tapping screws to the fastening boards of the counter-lattice.

When attaching the film, you need to give it some sagging (15 - 25 mm). This condition will help to ensure ventilation of the underside of the metal tile sheet during operation.

If this condition is violated, then moisture will accumulate in places where the film fits tightly, as a result of which the corrosion process will begin quite quickly.

This cold version of metal roofing is used quite rarely in the construction of residential buildings, this is due to the increased reverberation (sound conductivity) of the material.

In addition, this option of cold roofing has a number of the following disadvantages:

low air permeability due to obstacles created by the sheathing;
difficulty in attaching the waterproofing film to the rafters;
impossibility of installing a “ventilation ridge” in the waterproofing layer;
increase in wood consumption for sheathing.

Roofing diagram of their metal tiles

In order to reduce the noise level, as well as to be able to use the under-roof space more efficiently, a warm roof is installed. Although the cost of construction will increase, the result of efforts and investments will be additional space for household and utility rooms.

The roofing cake for metal tiles will include the following layers:

load-bearing roof structure (longitudinal purlins, rafters);
vapor barrier (one-way moisture permeability is ensured);
thermal insulation;
ventilation gap (space between thermal insulation and rafters and purlins;
waterproofing (waterproof film or membrane with one-way permeability to the outside);
counter-lattice (used to fasten the sheathing and press the waterproofing);
sheathing (beam of a certain design section on which the roof is attached);
sheets of metal tiles.

The roofing pie under metal tiles has a weak point - insulation. It is quite important to weigh all the features of the material before purchasing insulation, or consult with a specialist. For example, when choosing polystyrene foam as a foam, it is necessary to take into account its higher cost compared to rolled thermal insulation (mineral or glass wool). In addition, such material does not have sufficient flexibility, which leads to the formation of additional waste with non-standard rafter spacing.

The most popular type of thermal insulation materials is technical wool. However, a feature of this version of the material is its hygroscopicity. This deficiency is revealed when moisture is gained. At high humidity, the unprotected layer loses up to 80% of its insulating properties.

In order to prevent violation of the thermal insulation of the roofing pie, the metal roofing structure includes gaps between the thermal insulation (from 30 to 40 mm) and the upper layers of the roof, as well as between the waterproofing and metal tiles (from 10 to 15 mm).

To remove moisture from the insulation, a natural blowing method is used.

How to install

Installation work of installing metal roofing layers is carried out in a certain order, violation of which will lead to a weakening of operational characteristics.

Installation of a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier film is attached to the inside of the rafters. In some cases, it is necessary to attach the film with a gap (provided by a counter rail with a thickness of 30 mm or more).
Installation is carried out in the direction from the bottom row to the top, with an overlap of 100 mm.
Formed and longitudinal joints are closed with a vapor-proof film.
Insulation (gaps) is carefully filled into the space between the joists.
Waterproofing is installed using a similar technology.

The roofing pie must be completely installed before the immediate start of installation of metal tile sheets.

Installation of end strips

When installing a roof, it is important to take into account the features of fastening not only sheets, but also individual additional components and elements. Such attention to detail will ensure the reliability of the entire structure and eliminate the risk of the formation of “weak” spots not only on the surface, but on the entire roof.

When installing the end strips, you must follow the rule of fastening them to each other (an overlap of 2 cm or along the flange)

If the tiles are not adjusted to the width of the slope according to the size of the wave, then it may turn out that the lower crest of the wave will fall on the pediment. In this case, it is recommended to additionally add a roofing strip or adjust the gable overhang.

In cases where metal roofing elements are installed independently, typical errors occur. For example, quite often in a rectangular slope, when installing roof windows, they are built into a cut in a metal tile sheet. window apron. With this approach, a hole is formed in the roof along the edge of the cut.

When installing dormer windows, roof windows, and pipes located below the ridge, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology of using metal tiles when covering the roof. In this case, it is recommended to use single-module sheets (two sheets for each element).

Rules for installing the ridge bar

Installing a ridge bar also requires compliance with some rules:

Before installing the ridge strip, it is recommended to carry out work on installing under-roof ventilation.

When carrying out installation work on a roof with flat slopes, it is necessary to install an aeroroller between the ridge strip and the sheets of metal tiles. This design approach will reduce the risk of snow getting under the ridge.

When installing point ventilation holes in the ridge, it is mandatory to install a seal.

When carrying out this type of installation work, the ridge is mounted on the end strips, and the work is carried out from the end. The edge protrusion is 20-30 mm.

When installing a flat ridge, the parts are overlapped. The semicircular ridge is attached along the profile lines.
If the roof has an inclination angle of more than 45 degrees (sharp), it is necessary to accurately calculate in advance the combination of the ridge strip model and the roof inclination angle. It is recommended to entrust such calculations to specialists, because a small error in the numbers can lead to the need to purchase metal tiles in full.
In order to more accurately replicate the angles of inclination of the roof slopes, it is recommended to bend or unbend the ridge shelves as necessary.
Ridge roofing units made of metal tiles for trapezoidal and triangular slopes are mounted according to the scheme of fitting the strip to the corner of the ridge. In this case, it is recommended to cut the straight ridge in accordance with the corners. Installation of a semicircular ridge involves installing a plastic plug.
Ridge roofing units made of metal tiles for trapezoidal and triangular slopes are mounted according to the scheme of fitting the strip to the corner of the ridge.

It is recommended to replace the plastic plug that comes with the kit with a steel one made by craftsmen yourself.

It should be ensured that the axis of the ridge bar corresponds to the axis of the ridge. If the angles of the adjacent slopes are the same size, this is not difficult. In another option, specialists use bright mounting tape or a plastic V-tee to monitor the corresponding junctions.

Installation of the valley

A special place in the construction of a metal roof is the location of the valley. On the roof, this place starts from the ridge and goes down to the eaves.

The technology of the device involves installing an additional board to each valley. It is important to remember that the slats must be installed from bottom to top. The overlap with this technique is 20-30 cm.

The gap between the center line of the valley and the sheets of metal tiles should be at least 6.0-10.0 cm.

Checking the correct assembly of a metal roofing structure is quite simple. If all work is carried out correctly with strict adherence to all requirements at the fastening points, the covering sheet should touch the board. In case of miscalculation or error, the metal tile will be fixed at other points, which will lead to the formation of gaps. Such a defect will certainly lead to leaks already in the first period of operation.

In order to cover the cut sheets, the valleys are decorated with decorative overlays. When carrying out this process, experts recommend:

install the decorative trim from bottom to top;
compliance with the overlap size (at least 10 cm);
There is no provision for installing a seal between the decorative overlay and the metal tile;
installation of the decorative overlay requires careful installation of screws (no damage to the valley strip).

The installation of metal roofing provides for various types of structures. Some of them provide for the presence of a valley, which begins and ends on the slopes. If we consider the case of the correct installation of a dormer window, it is not difficult to notice the additional installation of a board under the valley. The technology of such an installation involves cutting the metal tile sheet at a level 20 cm higher than the exit of the valley to the slope. Cutouts are made in the covering building material under the front and side walls of the dormer window. Installation work involves the following work processes:

installation of a seal along the walls of the dormer window;
closing the eaves overhang with a strip;
installation of the valley strip;
trimming the plank along the exit to the slope and along the cornice.

In order for the edge facing the slope to fit tightly to the metal tile sheet, it is recommended to mold the upper edge of the valley manually. It is also necessary to straighten the bottom sheet with a mallet. If necessary, you can lengthen the valley, but provided that the size of the overlap is 20-30 cm. In most cases, the junction of the valleys to each other is fixed with self-tapping screws with sealant.

It is imperative to install a seal under the valley flanges. On the main slope above the valley, the sheets are laid according to a pattern that provides for fixation between the top and bottom rows. At the same time it is more than 20 cm.

Pipe bypass

Roofing technology involves carrying out installation work not only on a flat surface. The roof design involves the installation of pipes and other objects.

When installing the covering material, it is necessary to take into account all the features of proper installation work. To professionally inspect a pipe, it is necessary to first prepare its surface at the joint.

At the preparatory stage the following types of work:

the surface of the pipe is completely plastered;
waterproofing is placed on the sides;
a drainage groove is installed on the slope at a distance of no further than 80 cm from the rear wall;
An additional sheathing is installed above the pipe.

Roof pipe bypass

When installing the roof, the sheets of metal tiles that are located on both sides of the pipe are cut off above the stamping line. In this case, the cut will take place at a distance of no more than 15 cm from the pipe to the stamping lines.

The upper and lower aprons are measured along the side aprons, the height of which is at least 15 cm. The measurement is taken from the top of the roof covering.

In order for the design to meet all the requirements of reliability and integrity, it is also necessary to carefully measure the side of the apron that lies on the slope (height of at least 20 cm). A prerequisite is to cover the nearest wave crest with an apron. The aprons are attached using self-tapping screws with sealant. Be sure to use a sealant.

Following the sequence of actions, you must first connect the bottom and side aprons, and then proceed with the installation of the top one. A prerequisite for installing the top apron is to cover the sheets of metal tiles by 10-20 cm.

The top apron cannot be mounted into a cut in the metal tile. With such a defect in the installation work, water will inevitably flow under the roof.

If the pipe is located at a distance of less than 1 m from the ridge, then installing a metal roof is much easier. In this case, the upper part of the apron is placed under the ridge.

The danger of placing the pipe on the ridge is considered to be an unprofessional approach to sealing the joints of the side aprons of different slopes.

If there are objects on the roof with a width of more than 0.8 m, then the installation of metal tiles is carried out in accordance with the rules, requirements and instructions used when installing the valley. In this case, the roofing units made of metal tiles form a slope formed by two additional slopes. According to the technology, the slopes are covered with metal tiles and valleys are arranged.

An option in which the width of the object does not exceed 1.2 m involves covering the ramp with a flat steel sheet instead of the main covering material.

However, there are also more complex design solutions. In the case when the pipe shape is round, then there is no way to do it without the help of specialists. Bypassing a round pipe when installing a metal tile roof is a very complex technical process. When turning to specialists for help, you should remember that the prices for installation work on this section of the roof are much more expensive than on the rest of the surface.

The installation of a round pipe will complicate the process of installing a metal tile roof.

Advantages of using metal tiles

When choosing metal tiles as the main covering material for your roof, you must take into account that this is a modern covering material with a huge list of advantages.

Technical characteristics, as well as high performance properties, make it possible to maintain a high level of consumer demand in the market of domestic coating materials. Today you can choose the necessary covering material for any type of pitched roof, meeting various requirements. Construction stores are ready to offer customers products from various brands and manufacturers.

To make a final decision when choosing this material, you should consider its advantages and disadvantages in more detail.

Advantages of metal roofing:

compared to other covering materials (ceramic tiles and slate);
simplicity and ease of installation work on roofing (possibility of installation with certain skills);
a wide range of color palette (over 40 shades);
the presence of stiffeners, which ensures high strength of the material;
high technical properties and performance characteristics;
compliance with modern requirements;
environmental friendliness.

One of the disadvantages we discussed is noise from hail and rain impacts. In addition, when cutting the roof yourself, a large amount of waste profiled material remains.

With a competent analysis of the main advantages and disadvantages of this material, the conclusion becomes obvious even to a non-specialist. The metal roofing is quite durable and beautiful.

If all the considered structural features of such a roof are observed and the installation work is carried out, a metal tile roof is guaranteed to last for about 50 years.

However, it should be remembered that flat roofs cannot be covered with profiled metal sheets. The slope of the roof under metal tile covering ranges from 1.5-2 to 11 degrees.

Choosing roofing material is not an easy task. The roof must be reliable, beautiful, durable, and, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are met by metal roofing. It should be added to its advantages that installation is not the most difficult, which even a person without roofing experience can handle with his own hands.

Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

Types of metal tiles

Metal tiles are formed from sheet metal 0.35-0.7 mm thick, onto which protective and decorative compounds are applied. It turns out to be a multi-layer cake. The base of this building material is most often steel, but there are options made of copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have a high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are practically not found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

Both imported and domestic metal tiles are available for sale. The European version is strictly made of steel 0.5 mm thick - this is stated in the standard. Our GOST allows from 0.45 to 0.5 mm.

In addition to different base materials, different protective coatings are applied. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is the one that provides better protection, although such treatment costs a little more.

There are more different compositions for the finishing coating, which, along with protection from atmospheric influences, gives the material one or another color.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

The outer covering of metal tiles performs two functions simultaneously. It protects the base metal from corrosion and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coating:

The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. This is because it has an average price and good characteristics. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a large amount of snow melts. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfall. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is advisable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you need to be careful during installation.
Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - its service life is 10-15 years, and can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tiles coated with matte polyester is the smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).
Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based composition. It has a beautiful structured surface and is applied in a layer of 200 microns, making the coating resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low UV resistance, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride in the composition, this coating is prohibited.
Pural is a polyurethane-based coating with polymer additives. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness is 50 microns, service life is up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstizol, but better than all others), tolerates ultraviolet radiation and aggressive environments, and can be used for constructing roofs on the sea coast.
Pural is one of the most durable coatings
Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, resistance to fading, and long service life - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.
The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride.

It’s clear that when building a house you don’t want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the cheapest option - metal tiles coated with polyester. But this is not the best solution. Let's figure it out. The service life of metal tiles with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost is about 260 rubles/m2 with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm, and 440 rubles/m2 with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm. Even if the roofing material lasts 10 years, the price per square meter for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let’s take a very good option - with pural coating. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles/m2 to 635 rubles/m2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service it will be 12-17 rubles/m2. The difference is obvious. And this does not take into account the work of re-roofing, which is also time and money.

Profile types

When laying metal tiles, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - the sheathing is calculated and installed for them. Also, the height of the wave determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - for high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is required - the hardest; under normal conditions, metal tiles with a low wave (less than 50 mm) are suitable.

The waveform can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a large number of different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (usable width of the metal tile sheet, amount of overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from Monterrey profile. It has a round, slightly asymmetrical wave shape. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.

The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofing is made from it. It is formed by straight lines and has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on roofs of complex shapes with a lot of broken lines.

This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads - the wave height is small, but can withstand medium loads.

Another 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. It is more similar than the others to the classic semicircular tile. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced differences.

The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. It gives the impression of a monolithic roofing covering.

Sheet sizes and wave parameters of Andalusia metal tiles

If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, there are usually from 20 to 40 shades. Choose the one you like best. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although there is an opinion that dark colors fade faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and pigment, but not on the color.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to decide on the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - you will need the exact dimensions of the material itself, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the protrusions or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof has a complex shape, it is better to draw a plan, put down all the dimensions and then start doing the calculations.

Number of rows

It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to contact the manufacturer directly. The point is not only the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops/factories offer to cut sheets of the required sizes. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (taking into account the eaves overhang).

This option is good because a metal tile roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of leaks. The second plus is a minimal amount of waste and a smaller amount of material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters are saved). Disadvantages: difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets to the top, inconvenient installation.

When using sheets of standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after subtracting the amount of horizontal overlap from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot get into the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm; with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.

An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on a roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to the nearest whole number - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since this piece cannot be used anywhere else.

Number of sheets in a row

Take the length of the slope and divide it by the usable width of the sheet. This parameter is indicated in the technical specifications for metal tiles. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). We round the resulting number up to obtain the number of sheets in the row.

An example of calculating metal tile sheets in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but round up to a larger integer and we get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

Features of hip roofs

Hip roofs have slopes that are triangular or trapezoidal. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet in order to minimize the amount of waste.

The height is selected so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and there is still a significant error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculated using programs. They are usually available from sellers and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and first measure the parameters of the roof at home (or call a measurer), and then try to select the dimensions yourself. Then you can compare the amount of material needed, calculated by you and proposed.

Determining the number of additional elements

A metal tile roof requires a large number of different additional elements (additions), which form the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the amount of additions required. With a simple gable roof, ridge elements and caps, cornice and pediment strips will be needed. That's all.

What types of additional elements are there for metal roofing and why are they needed?

Despite the wide variety of extras, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which it needs to be mounted and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result obtained is rounded up.

What and how to attach it to

The metal tiles are secured with special self-tapping screws and rubber washers. Just like the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and the top is painted to match its coating. When installing, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface; tilting it is not allowed.

When fastening metal tiles, you need to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You cannot tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you also cannot allow a loose fit - the connection will not be airtight.

Lathing for metal tiles

Metal tiles are a fairly rigid material, so a sparse sheathing is made underneath it, which consists of slats that are located along the roof overhang.

What material

If the metal tile roof has a simple structure, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) 100 mm wide is used for the sheathing. For roofs of complex shapes or in regions with heavy snow loads, it is better to use a 32 mm thick board or 50-50 mm timber. The timber is also used when there is a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

Lathing step

Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to tighten the self-tapping screw. The lathing must be made so that the middle of the plank is located just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: the profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the sheathing strips. This value can be determined by measuring the existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tiles.

There are several important aspects of installing lathing under metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the height of the step for a given profile is added to the selected thickness of the plank. In addition, this strip is made wider than all the others - a drip edge will be attached to it, which covers the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

Also note that the second bar is not filled with a standard step, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step when installing the last plank near the ridge is also different - it is obtained after the fact, as well as the height of the plank. We remind you that there must be sufficiently large gaps in the area of the ridge - and the sheathing and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for normal attic ventilation.

Installation procedure and features

Before covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

First of all, you need to take care of proper storage - in ventilated stacks, arranged with bars.
When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or metal scissors. The grinder overheats the metal, which causes the zinc to evaporate, and the material will begin to rust at the cut points.
Start laying sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram for metal tile sheets is in the photo below).
When installing, wear soft, well-fitting shoes and step only on the lower part of the wave.

Next we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - when arranging a warm attic, two more layers are added - insulation and a vapor barrier membrane on the room side.

Cold metal roofing

This type of roofing is suitable if the attic space is planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from precipitation and wind. The order of work is as follows:

Warm roof

When installing an insulated roof made of metal tiles, a thermal insulation material is added to the roofing pie, which is attached between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film, which is placed on the rafters from the attic side. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

How to attach sheets

When we cover a roof with metal tiles, we need to position the screws correctly. There are several rules that must be followed:

Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
The waves between the horizontal joints are attached through one in a checkerboard pattern.

These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphical representation, some things are easier to understand.