Pear pruning technology for beginner gardeners. How and when should pear pruning be done for proper crown formation? Pruning an adult pear

Pear pruning in the spring is a set of activities that is mandatory for every skilled summer resident. It is difficult to find a person who does not like pear fruits. Juicy and sweet, they are consumed both in their natural form and are widely used in home cooking. In order for a tree to bear fruit regularly, it needs to be looked after. Therefore, it is necessary not only to water and fertilize, but also to cut the pear. You will learn how to do it correctly and the timing of the procedure from this article.

WHY DO YOU NEED PEAR CUTTING?

The pear, as mentioned above, is characterized by slow growth. The first harvest can only be 12 years from the date of planting the pear. Is it possible to achieve earlier fruiting of a pear by cutting it?

The first thing to do is to prune the pear every year with the onset of spring. With proper thinning of the pear, the tree will receive a sufficient flow of air and light. New shoots delay the fruiting of the pear. In order for the pear to develop well, it is necessary to pinch growth points on young shoots, which will help speed up the fruiting period of the pear.

pear pruning time in spring

The best time for pruning is early spring (March - April). The temperature outside should be positive. But do not wait until the kidneys swell and the period of juice movement begins. The pear loves light very much, so in the process of pruning, you need to ensure that the rays of the sun and heat are evenly distributed over all parts of the tree.

The main pear pruning activities in spring

The main pear pruning activities should take place in stages:

forming pruning - is carried out to form the correct crown, both in young and fruit-bearing trees for more than a year;
sanitary pruning - to remove dry branches and those infected with various diseases;
maintenance pruning - used to shorten thicker branches, which saves the tree from unnecessary congestion during fruit ripening.

Experienced gardeners prune trees in two ways: shortening shoots - shorten the top of the branches and shoots. This helps the side shoots below the cut level to wake up faster, less shade is created; thinning - removing an extra branch to the very base, gives more light to the side shoots. When cutting, it is important that no stump remains.

Spring Pear Pruning Tool

The main requirement when pruning pear branches is not to harm the tree itself, so that the plant does not have to subsequently spend maximum strength on restoration.

You can start spring pruning of adult pears in early spring, after the snow melted, when the buds had not yet begun to open. Pruning tools:

Secateurs.
Saw.
Lopper.
Garden var.

To disinfect the instrument, it is necessary to use alcohol and alcohol-containing solutions.

Correct pear pruning in spring: schemes

Spring pear pruning is aimed at the correct formation of the tree crown. The operation should be performed before the start of sap flow, with the first warming and the beginning of the melting of the snow cover. The optimum temperature for pear pruning is +5 °C.

Rules for pruning a young pear in spring

Young pear seedlings require pruning from the second year of life. Some necessary requirements for formative pruning of young trees:

The central trunk must be shortened by a quarter of the length.
Strong lateral branches of a young pear (no more than 4), which will subsequently form the main skeleton of the crown, are shortened, the rest of the branches are cut out completely. It is important to form a “ring” from the branches remaining on the tree, so they may not be pruned at the same distance.
A year later, young pears with the onset of spring must be cut again. In the second year, shoots of the second order are truncated, interfering with the growth of the main branches, as well as crowns growing inward and interfering with the penetration of sunlight.

Look at the photo of an overwintered pear - an overgrown crown, unkempt and shaggy. Chaotically overgrown growth blocks access sunbeams, which cannot penetrate deep into the crown. It is to provide light and air is carried out spring pruning pears.

Rules for pruning an adult pear in spring

How to properly trim:

The shoots extending from the trunk are removed first. The cutting angle must be 90°. After completing this work, you can begin to restore order on the shoots located parallel to the main trunk, which grow upwards.
According to the pruning rules, it is necessary to cut off excess branches so that there are no stumps. But that's not all - do not grab extra branches, otherwise a deep incision will heal for a long time.
If the branch exceeds a diameter of 3 cm, then first you need to file it a little from below, and then saw it from above. So the bark of the tree will remain intact (if you saw only from above, then the branch will fall under its own weight and the bark will be damaged), and you will get the job done faster.
We process the cut points with garden pitch. If this is not done, then the tree secretes juice, becomes weak, and the juice also attracts insects.
It is impossible to apply top dressing immediately after cutting the branches, since the tree receives all the necessary nutrients from a powerful root system.
Do not rush to prune early, wait until the warm weather has settled so as not to harm the fruit tree.

When forming the crown of an adult tree, it is necessary to remove excess mass annually so that the tree receives enough air and light. When this part of the work is completed, you can start pruning young branches growing parallel to the trunk. In general, the principle of circumcision young tree and looks like an adult. Depending on the number of young shoots, it is necessary to trim them by 1/3 so that the new branch begins to grow and form faster.

The first harvest of pears, depending on the variety, can be obtained in the 3rd year, and there is also a tree variety that begins to bear fruit only in the 12th year of life. Can you imagine how long gardeners have to wait to evaluate the result of hard work?

To bring the fruiting time closer, it is necessary to thin the crown, then the pear branches will begin to receive more air and reach for the light source. So the tree will “switch” to fruiting and will not direct all its forces to the growth of young shoots. To achieve this, you can pinch the growth point on a young shoot, and therefore bring the formation of new fruits closer. How to cope with this work and cut the pear in the spring, watch the video:

Anti-aging pruning of an old pear tree in spring

A special pear pruning method is used if necessary to rejuvenate fruit plantations. Such an event is very important for trees older than 15 years. To effectively restore the fruit-forming ability of an old pear, it is recommended to adhere to the following pruning technology:

it is best to perform anti-aging pruning in several stages, observing the time interval between events of a couple of years;
at the first stage, shoots located at an acute angle to the stem part should be removed;
all shoots that are parallel to the trunk should also be removed fruit tree;
when pruning branches, it is impossible to leave stumps or carry out a strong deepening of the cut, since in this case the healing process is greatly delayed;
competent pruning is carried out in a way on the ring, which contributes to the fastest healing of the cuts;
with a thickness of branches of more than 3 cm, it is necessary to first make cuts from the bottom and top, which will not allow the plant to be severely damaged;
all places of cuts are necessary in without fail process with a garden pitch.

It is important to note that annual growths in pear trees, unlike apple trees, are not recommended to be subjected to very heavy pruning. Shortening by a quarter of the original length is considered optimal. After the main anti-aging pruning, the crown is thinned and shoots directed deep into the crown or crossing each other are removed.

Today it is no secret to anyone beneficial features pears. In addition, due to the mild taste and rich aroma, fruits can be enjoyed not only by adults, but also by children. However, in order to grow a healthy tree that will subsequently bear fruit regularly, and produce tasty and large fruits, you need to know how to properly care for it.

What is pear pruning for?

In addition to the main agrotechnical measures - top dressing, weed removal, fruit overload control - the tree needs to ration the branches.

Pruning pear increases the yield and duration of fruiting of the tree.

This measure is necessary to obtain the desired effect:

growth force adjustment;
prolongation of fruiting;
control of the beginning of fruiting;
life cycle extension;
providing air access to the stems;
providing access to light to the crown;
formation of the desired crown shape;
fruit quality assurance.

If the correct and timely pruning scheme is applied, pear trees can fully bear fruit. over fifty years .

Features of summer pruning

It should be noted right away that if the procedure was carried out correctly in the spring, then in the summer, as a rule, pruning is carried out according to the pinching method.

Young shoots are simply pinched with fingers.

The essence of this technique is that by pinching young shoots from above, the growth force below slows down, thereby gaining all the strength of those stems on which the fruits ripen. However, this type can also be held in the spring, moreover, several times after the main big event.

Among other things, in the summer you can also shorten new shoots by about two or three eyes. According to experienced gardeners, summer pruning significantly reduces the amount of work in spring and autumn. And also the summer procedure increases by an order of magnitude yield factor . As a result of a properly carried out event, strong strong stems grow, strong and abundant fruit buds are formed, from which voluminous and high-quality fruits will subsequently appear.

Simultaneous ripening of fruits is ensured, the palatability of pears increases, the intake of useful substances to fruit units.

Required inventory

In order to properly cut dry stems or form a crown for a young tree, the following tools are used: a bypass pruner, a pruner with an anvil, a pruner, a garden saw, a set of garden knives.

Which tool to use depends on the specific purpose of trimming..

Bypass pruner is a kind of scissors, because it cuts in a similar way. A convex blade slides along the inner surface of a concave - supporting blade. When choosing a bypass pruner, you should pay attention to the size of the gap between the blades - if it is large, it will “chew” rather than cut branches. You can check it on plain paper - an even cut on the sheet indicates the evenness of the cut on the branches.
Secateurs with anvil works like an ax, that is, working cutting side cuts the branch until it hits the anvil. Such a pruner does not jam, unlike a bypass tool, however, it is impossible to work with such equipment in a hard-to-reach area. But also this secateurs cannot cut the branch at the very base, therefore it prevents the ring pruning. As a rule, this type of inventory is used to eliminate dry wood. When choosing, pay attention to the quality of the blades. Most best option– High carbon steel, Teflon or chrome plated. Advantage - thick stems are easily cut.
Lopper they are used where it is impossible to reach with ordinary secateurs - the depth of the crown or high areas. The principle of operation is the same as that of conventional sectors, only the delimber allows you to remove stems at a distance, since the tool is equipped with long handles. In addition, the inventory must be held with both hands. Among other things, the lopper is capable of removing stems with a diameter of about fifty millimeters.
garden saws designed to shorten or eliminate thicker units. By type, narrowed, sickle-shaped and bow saws are distinguished. And also in gardening stores you can buy saws with replacement blades. Pay attention to the thickness of the canvas. The best way– hacksaw type, hardened steel.

Summer pear pruning with branches growing upwards

The correct location of the secateurs when cutting into a ring.

Branches growing upwards are observed mainly in columnar pear varieties, although there are other varieties with this feature:

Simply Maria;
Duchess;
Ultra early;
Bere Royale;
Conference;
November.

When thinning, the branches are cut completely into a ring.

But also use thinning method.

The essence of this method is to provide access to light and air to the plant and fruits.

at the base completely cut out excess stems. Thus, access is freed up for disinfection and disinfestation of the tree, the growth of young shoots is ensured - the tree is as ready for winter as possible, more buds develop. If the tree is old, all old, dry, damaged branches are completely eliminated, regardless of location.

Anti-aging method

The anti-aging method involves cutting out old large branches that have a small amount of pillows.

Anti-aging pear pruning.

You can do this procedure in the summer only those trees, the fruiting of which ends precisely at this time. The rest of the varieties are similar - after the end of the fruitful period. It is worth considering the fact that even after rejuvenating pruning, the old pear will significantly reduce the yield level, however, palatability and the size of the fruit, this will not be reflected - only in the number of fruit units.

Already in the second year after rejuvenation, the yield is able to recover and the tree will bear fruit in the same mode.

pruning pear

Columnar pear, as a rule, does not require heavy pruning, since its crown is not prone to strong density.

If a columnar pear does not give side shoots, then it has nothing to cut.

After planting the seedling in the ground, lateral shoots are plucked off so that the trunk can fully develop.
After the seedling has gained strength, it is allowed to leave about three side branches every year - the gardener decides which form to create.
If the owner wants the fruits to develop directly on the trunk, remove all side rails.

For the first five years, the main conductor can not be shortened, then it can be shortened by three kidneys. However, after the main conductor begins to be shortened, attention should be paid to the growth of lateral growth, as its speed increases.

Main risks

Despite the fact that some gardeners admit the possibility of summer pruning, most of them agree that the procedure can be carried out in the summer. only as a last resort.

After pruning, the place of the cut is covered with garden pitch.

The advantage of the summer is the confidence in the absence of frost. The riskiness of summer pruning is that during the procedure, the gardener, together with the branches, cuts off the green part of the tree, directly the leaves that feed the trunk and buds.

Among other things, summer crown formation is unacceptable for most pear varieties, since there is a risk that the tree will not recover after such a global cleaning, especially if the temperature outside is more than twenty-five degrees.

It is not recommended to cut large thick branches. , since this is fraught with the drying out of the entire tree - the danger of a large loss of juice increases due to prolonged non-healing of the wound. Thus, the conclusion is determined - summer pruning is not used for all pear varieties, moreover, it is desirable to carry out only cosmetic correction of the stem part, global cleaning is not recommended.

In order to have less unnecessary growth, only the most necessary pear pruning is carried out in the fall. The tree responds very strongly to this procedure, intensively growing young shoots next year.

For a tree, there is no difference between pruning in autumn and early spring before the buds awaken. This is the same state of the tree, when one vegetation has ended, and the second has not yet begun. It is more comfortable to prune in the autumn, there are no snowdrifts and spring slush under your feet, your hands do not freeze.

An unpleasant feature of autumn pruning of trees is that it reduces winter hardiness, therefore it is not applicable for low-hardy species. In autumn, it is ideal to cut an adult pear.

Corrective pruning is carried out in September, when the foliage falls.

Some gardeners believe that early spring pruning is safer from the point of view of infecting plants with a milky sheen. But this disease is quite rare.

Event Tools

Thick branches are cut with a saw, thin branches with pruners. So that when cutting a thick side branch does not fall off and tear off the bark, it is removed in two approaches. First, they cut off most of it, leaving a stump at the trunk, then saw off the remaining part at the very base. A saw or a hacksaw injures branches less than a pruner.

While thinning the crown, the pruner must be held with the sickle-shaped part on top, otherwise it will not work on the ring.

You can also use for cutting shoots. sharp knife. All tools must be disinfected before use.

Autumn pruning dates

The time of autumn pruning depends on the region of residence. In the southern regions of Russia, it can be carried out on warm October days.

It is undesirable to cut when the air temperature is below 0 °C. When the wood becomes brittle, it cannot be cut. Recommended pruning time after leaf fall, when the movement of vegetable juices slows down.

In order for the tree to have time to prepare for the onset of cold weather, in central Russia it is advisable to finish pruning by October. It is best to choose a sunny, fine day when it is pleasant to work.

Scheme for beginners

The process usually starts from the top. If you cut off the lower branches, then the growth of the tree will go up. Before proceeding, it is necessary to imagine how the tree will look like, for example, like a bowl or with a sparsely-tiered crown.

Pruning a pear is done in the same way as an apple tree. There are a lot of types of crown formation:

longline;
sparse-tiered;
pyramidal;
fusiform;
bowl-shaped.

The tiered type of formation is popular. Sparse-tiered pruning is applicable to apple and pear trees with an annular type of fruiting.

Approximate cutting scheme:

When pruning, no more than 1/3 of the crown is removed. Ideally, the crown can be made low, wide and flat-round. It is necessary to observe the principle of subordination of branches. If a sparse-tiered crown is formed, the central conductor is left, all other branches are made below it.
You should not lay more branches in the upper tier than there were in the lower one. If 5 branches grow below, 4 are left at the top, etc. Ideally, they should fill the space between the branches of the previous tier.
When the tree reached desired height, the central conductor is cut very short, by 2-3 kidneys. The next year, the tree will grow quite a bit in height. It again needs to be shortened by 2 buds, and the height of the tree will remain the same.

In order for the tree to maintain its shape, size, and regularly bear fruit, pruning of branches must be carried out every year.

The nuances of pruning a young, old tree

Pruning young pears in the fall is necessary so that all branches are well lit by the sun and ventilated. Therefore, it is necessary to remove unnecessary, interfering branches, those that intersect with each other.

Proper pruning is done close to the kidney so that a large stump does not remain, it can become a source of infection in the future.

The cut is made oblique, its lower edge should be flush with top edge kidneys.

The purpose of pruning an old, fruit-bearing pear is the appearance more fruit, high yields. It is not necessary to remove short, growing branches, because flowers form on them, and then ovaries.

For a young and old tree, the general pruning laws apply when forming a longline crown:

The first law of subordination, hierarchy. According to it, the branches of the underlying tier should not outgrow the branches of the overlying tiers in height. In this case, the branches of the upper tier are cut shorter than the branches of the lower tier.
The second law is thinning. In trees, thinning in the crown allows access to light and air. During thinning, dried, diseased, inward-growing and unproductive branches are removed. On older trees, the rings are also thinned out. This operation causes the laying of new fruit formations.
The third law is shortening. It is made on 1/3 or 1/4 branches. It is necessary to take into account the direction of growth of the kidney located at the cut. Pruning is done in a zigzag manner, leaving in one year on the shoot a bud looking to the left, and in another to the right. Shorten shoots depending on the strength of growth. This procedure causes lateral branching, the shoots do not stretch up so quickly.

After cutting off the branch, the top few buds will produce long growth shoots of continuation. Therefore, they are cut so that the upper bud remains, for the next year's shoot, and a few buds lower, for shoots that will give branches of the first order - skeletal.

Pear care after pruning

It is easier for a tree to endure an unpleasant procedure, and start growing with appropriate care.

2 hours after pruning, all sections are covered with garden pitch. If you do this right away, the putty will fall off the wet cuts.

A cut with a diameter of less than 2 cm can not be covered with garden pitch; it is necessary to cover a larger diameter. It is especially important to process cuts that are made on the ring, directly on the skeletal branches and on the trunk.

We must not forget about general care measures - treatment from pests and diseases, top dressing, watering and loosening the soil in trunk circle, weed removal.

Pear pruning is an important procedure for the care of fruit trees. It provides the tree with growth, productivity, proper crown formation, and is also an excellent prevention of various diseases, the pathogens of which penetrate through damaged branches. In our article, we will consider the types, periods and features of pruning, as well as discuss how to properly carry out this procedure.

Pruning apple trees in the fall is essential to maintaining an orchard and ensuring good yields. But pear pruning is no less important and useful procedure, provided it is done correctly. Despite the fact that this fruit tree grows quite slowly, improperly growing branches can obscure the light, without which it will quickly begin to wither and may even die. That is why you need to start cutting the pear the next year after planting, and finish it only after it dries out.

Systematic pear pruning has a number of advantages:

the formation of a strong trunk and skeletal branches that will not break from the weight of ripe fruits;
the possibility of even distribution of moisture and nutrients along the trunk;
providing free access to direct sunlight;
convenience in spraying and other tree care procedures;
free access to the fruits at the time of harvest.

Pruning scheme for 1 year

Pruning scheme for 2 years

Pruning scheme for 3 years

If the pruning of the branches is ignored, then this will lead to the depletion of the plant due to the intensive growth of its branches and shoots, due to which the volume of fruiting will significantly decrease, and after a while it will stop altogether.

but pear tree any variety must be cut correctly. To do this, you need to learn the types and methods of carrying out these procedures, the time of year when they are carried out, the basics of circumcision techniques and have all the necessary tools.

The tool used for this procedure must be well sharpened and absolutely clean. This will reduce the risk of infection and make your job easier.

Pruning is of 2 types:

Pruning - pruning one-year-old growth and the upper parts of the branches, which slows the growth of the tree up and contributes to its better branching.
Thinning - cutting branches at their very base, ensuring the penetration of the sun into the crown.

At the same time, other additional work- tying, tilting, bending branches, removing root shoots, etc.

As for the purpose of pruning this fruit tree, it can be:

Forming - to give the crown shape.
Anti-aging - to extend the period of its fruiting.
Supportive - necessary for the yield and health of the pear.

Forming pruning

Regardless of which variety grows in your country house, you will have to carry out all of the above types of pruning correctly throughout the life of the pear.

Pruning of branches is required, first of all, to increase productivity. fruit plant. For example, pruning the leaves and whiskers of strawberries doubles the volume of its fruiting. The same goes for pears and other fruit trees. A diagram of how this procedure is carried out correctly is available on the Internet.

Pear pruning is carried out both in autumn and early spring before the start of sap flow. The technique by which the scheme of this type of tree care will be built throughout the entire period of its life can be represented as follows:

The first pruning needed to form the crown.

One bud is selected on the trunk, which gardeners call the first one - from it the branches that need pruning will be determined.
Three kidneys, if counted from the first, are removed.
The fifth kidney, located on the opposite side of the trunk from the first, is left to form the second skeletal branch.
The sixth, seventh and eighth kidneys are removed.
A cut is made above the ninth bud to start the growth of the shoot.

The second pruning is carried out after the young tree is 2 years old. It will consist in shortening, tilting and bending skeletal branches from the trunk. The third pruning is performed when the plant reaches the age of five. Each subsequent procedure is correctly carried out as necessary. It will include the following algorithm of work:

removal of shoots growing from the trunk;
crown thinning;
removal of top and incorrectly growing branches;
stem shortening.

Pear pruning scheme in autumn

As for the features of how to properly perform these works, their secrets were revealed to us experienced gardeners who annually harvest an amazing harvest of ripe fruits from their garden. They will include the following rules:

at in large numbers pruned branches, it is better to stretch this procedure into several stages;
cut the branches should be “on the ring”, this will contribute to faster healing;
the bark at the place of the cut should in no case be lifted up;
too large a branch is cut in parts;
all sections are necessarily processed with garden pitch.

If the number of remote branches is too large, you should not try to cover everything at once. Pear pruning can be extended over 2 or more seasons.

The pear, depending on the goal, is cut all year round. Accordingly, she has autumn, winter, spring and summer pruning. Each of them has its own characteristics and is carried out according to the rules.

Autumn pruning is carried out annually. Its purpose is to remove dry, old, damaged and broken branches in order to give way to young shoots in crown formation.

In winter, when the tree is at rest, the tree is pruned to shape its crown. And in the spring, before the start of sap flow, the tops of one-year-old seedlings are cut, and the central conductors and lateral skeletal shoots are shortened for other trees.

Trimming methods

In the summer season, pruning of trees is carried out as a last resort. Only the removal of diseased, dry and broken branches, as well as those that have broken under the weight of the fruit, is allowed.

Age pruning

The formation of the crown of apple and pear trees is required for both young and old trees. But the features of cutting branches will be different for them.

The first pruning is carried out immediately after planting a young tree, which facilitates its adaptation.

The second pruning is carried out a year later to increase the branching, and from now on this procedure should be carried out regularly twice a year.

As for cutting old pears, they, as well as, by the way, others garden plants, sanitary pruning is shown, designed to increase fruiting and extend the life of the tree.

Pruning pears in the photo

A pear, like an apple tree, belongs to seed crops, which means that their pruning principles are similar, and everything that was said about an apple tree is absolutely true for a pear. However, compared to the apple tree, the pear has its own peculiarities.

When starting pruning pears, novice gardeners should remember that these trees are naturally tall, often in old city courtyards there are specimens looking into the windows of the fifth floor. And this means that in any garden, sooner or later, the question arises of limiting the dimensions of the crown, especially in the middle lane, where winter-hardy dwarf pear rootstocks do not yet exist. The pear tree will resist lowering, so set your sights on yearly pruning.

Pear wood is denser and harder than that of an apple tree, but it is also more fragile and prone to breakage. Therefore, before cutting a pear, safety precautions should be given increased attention and in no case should you climb the skeletal branches.

Pear pruning scheme in the photo

Most pear varieties have a pyramidal crown shape, they are prone to the formation of a huge number of tops and rapid thickening.

As you can see in the photo, when pruning pears, regular and fairly strong removal of tops is required, as well as careful thinning of the crown:

Pear rings are quite durable and can branch, so one more piece of advice - at a certain stage, you can increase fruiting with the help of rejuvenating pruning of individual rings, although this is laborious and jewelry work. Old fruit-bearing pear branches look like deer antlers, densely covered with old annelids. It is easier and more reasonable to remove such branches entirely when the crop ceases to satisfy you, and the pear will easily and happily grow new shoots from which you will subsequently select and form young fruit-bearing branches. From the many tops for growing future fruit-bearing branches, choose only well-located, with a strong attachment to the trunk or skeletal branches. And it will not necessarily be the longest and “fattest” shoot - sometimes a pear has tops even on the lower surface of a branch.

The intensity of pruning should correspond to the shoot-forming ability of the tree, and this is a varietal trait. Varieties with a weak shoot-forming ability need pruning to a lesser extent.

Features of pruning some varieties of pears

Here you will learn how to properly prune pears of different varieties.

Varieties with ring type fruiting (Bessemyanka, Dekanka winter, etc.) usually branch rather weakly, but may form an excessive number of annulus. It is imperative to regulate growth and fruiting with pruning, to establish the right balance.

Varieties with strong branching (Tonkovetka, Forest Beauty, many varieties from the Bere group, etc.) require regular thinning of the crown. Long growths are recommended to be shortened to make the crown more compact and stimulate the laying of generative buds. Such varieties are prone to the formation of sharp corners, and in this case, any methods of struggle are applicable.

Some pear varieties have fruit formations on the same tree. different types. In this case, the decision: to prune - not to prune - and how, is made for each particular branch.

Dwarf pear for middle lane is possible only in one case - an unrelated grafting on hawthorn, mountain ash, chokeberry, (in the southern regions, common quince is added to the list of rootstocks). A feature of pruning such pears is the obligatory leaving of at least one branch of the stock, and since the scion grows faster than the stock, such a grafted tree needs a garter to a support for life. The formation of the crown is the same as that of apple trees on dwarf rootstocks.

Watch the pear pruning video to better understand how to shape the crown of this tree: