Is it possible to grow a cherry from the bone at home and how to do it. Is it possible to grow a cherry from the bone at home and how to do the removal of the root row

Cherry and sweet cherry - related fruit trees of a bone family. Most varieties are distinguished by a thermo-loving temper, so the cultivation of cherries in the open plot is as well as sweet cherries on most of the middle strip of Russia very difficult. Of course, it is possible to get a good harvest, but for this you have to make a lot of effort.
However, it is not necessary to hope for some special agricultural engineering. In many respects, the key to success in the right selection of varieties. Therefore, starting a conversation about how to grow a cherry and cherry at home in the garden, I propose to talk in detail about this aspect, and not how to dig a pit, make a bolt, make fertilizer, pour water, rub the soil, tapping a seedling to cola ...
What are the main requirements for cherry and sweet cherries, selected for cultivation in our territories? First of all, they should be winter-hardy, since without this quality, Russian cold trees do not survive, as they do not inspire them. Secondly, it is better to grow samopidal varieties in the garden. Pay attention also to disease resistance. And of course, it is impossible to forget about the yield.
Making the final choice, among the combination of varieties that meet the above characteristics, it is necessary to prefer the species that are recommended by the cultivation specialists in a particular area. Such rocks have the name of the zoned and, as a rule, they undergo a preliminary check in practice in a certain locality. In order to clarify the zoning of varieties, you need to become familiar with the state register of breeding achievements, where the names of plants recommended for cultivation in certain areas of the country are entered.
Thinking about the cultivation of sweet cherries on the backdrop, you need to take into account two main factors.
First, the bone cultures are distinguished by the fact that their fruiting is not periodically. For example, an apple tree, after the yield season, must be lined, after which the tree again brings a lot of fruits. Such an alternation is characteristic of trees of seed crops growing both in warm southern latitudes and in the northern territories - a natural feature is nothing able to change. This is a periodic fruiting.
In the case of the bone, their crop depends only on weather conditions that have developed in the winter and early period. For the middle strip of Russia, the freedom of flowering kidneys is characteristic. And sometimes the return freezes are covered even the blooming plant. Naturally, all this affects yields. Therefore, cherries and sweet cherries can several years in a row or give a good harvest, or remain "empty." Statistics argue that on average from 10 years of life, cherry trees growing in non-black earth are given only 5-6 good yields.
To compensate for this feature, it is necessary to form a garden from trees of different grades. It is best that in the boundaries of one site, early and medium varieties adjacent to the late maturation trees.
The second feature is more relate to cherry gardens. The fact is that all varieties of cherries are self-visible. Therefore, the garden should consist of trees at least two mutually pollinated species.
Among the cherries there are samopidal varieties and, of course, preference should be given to them, as they are able to be polluted and tie the fruits even in the absence of bees or other insects. However, it is better to create mixed fit, combining self-aluminous and self-visual species.

According to yield, the best for the cultivation of cherries in the garden in the central part of Russia is considered "youth", "Rusinka", "Volcology". Each tree of these breeds under good weather conditions can give from 8 to 10 kg of berries. Among the cherries there are varieties "Fate" and "Chermashny". Their maximum yield can reach 25-30 kg from one tree.
In general, a period of sustainable fruiting in cherries lasts up to 15 years, and the cherry garden with appropriate care can give stable yields even 20-25 years.
It should be noted that experts do not recommend planting only a cherry and cherry on the site, even if they are different varieties. It is best to arrange mixed fit, diluting them with other trees of a bone family, for example, alych or plum. Such such varieties of plums are well suited for this, as "SPRING", "Blue Dar", "Eurasia 21", "Egg Blue", "Hungarian Moskovskaya", "Memory of Timiryazev", "Red", "Morning" and "Smolinka" .
A high winter hardiness is characterized by a Swedish variety called "OPAL", which in conditions of non-black earth gives a decent harvest. Alycha "Kuban Comet", as well as a hybrid of plums with almonds "Troba", has proven well.

The cherry needed good lighting, so when choosing a place for a culture, it is necessary to take into account this factor. The optimal option for planting a tree will be the upper part of the southern slope or an exalted and smooth area protected from the wind.

Culture can be planted both in spring and autumn, in the so-called period of biological peace, when plants have already stopped or have not yet begun their growth. In the autumn, the cherry in the middle lane is planted in the first decade of September, planted at this time, it is well rooted and without any problems will survive winter frosts. It follows in the planting of culture in the spring in April, when snow comes down from the site.

Technology planting process

Cherry care for all

The main advantage of the zoned varieties of cherry is their resistance to weather conditions of the middle strip and good winter hardiness, but still do not count on a huge and permanent harvest without proper care.

Watering, making fertilizers and other care activities

Cherry requires the same care, as for other fruit trees. The main procedures are the fibergulation of the soil under the crown of culture, weeding, making mineral and organic fertilizers.

In the hot summer and when drought, the cherry must be patched at least 2-5 times per season. The first irrigation is necessary after flowering, the second - when the bone is formed in the fruit, the third - during the staining of the fruit. Water-prohibitive moisturizing is also required before the start of frosts, if, of course, the weather is arid at this time. The procedure is carried out after leaffall, pouring 2-3 water buckets for each tree. Thanks to the stock of moisture in the soil, its temperature will be higher for several degrees and the plant without difficulty will survive the winter cold.

For excellent growth, the cherry requires a large amount of nutrients. An exemplary drawing diagram is such:

The first is at the beginning of the vegetation. During this period, make nitrogen fertilizers in the form of ammonium nitrate or urea (1 tbsp. Per 10 liters of water).
Second feeding in 2 weeks in the same fertilizer.
In the fall, submract the rocker circle of 10 kg with a stroke, 50 g of potassium salt and 80 g of superphosphate (per square meters. M.).

Why cherry is not fruit

Many dacms, and not only newcomers, but also experienced gardeners, familiarize the situation when the culture does not be fruit, and sometimes it doesn't even bloom. Causes can be different. Consider the most common.

First, the amount of harvest directly depends on where the village is planted. If you put the cherry on the site, open "all winds", then most likely there will be almost no uncestrics on it, since the flower kidneys will be overwhelmed. Berries may form only on the lower branches. To obtain a consistently high crop of juicy fruits, plant a cherry on an elevated and even plot, reliably protected from the winds by the wall at home or fence. If you have an open plot, then choose the lowered or dwarf varieties of cherry.

The second problem is the absence of a pollinator variety. Many varieties are self-visible and even if the variety is declared originals as the sammost, the presence of neighbors who would pollinate the cherry, only increase the harvest. Gardeners can be recommended to land in the garden several trees blooming at one time (it is quite simple to find out by reading the description of the variety). Note that the seedlings of cherries intended for mutual pollination are worth not further than 60 m from each other.

How beautiful the cherry bloom! And now the leaves are dirty and as if burned, the tree looks sick, but very few berries started. In his book "The Bible of the Fruit Garden" Pavel Trannua talks about the mistakes that gardeners allow crishes, and compares the cultivation of the cherry today and a hundred years ago.

What is the brightest feature of the cherry? I would definitely named this: in our middle lane on the cherry, the property of all the vocabulary (graft) grades of bone to die even after the rustling frozen. Correspondence cherry Get there is a good chance, but grafted varieties are falling sharply: it is precisely the guidance links to "the monyliosis and kokkkvikoz's cherry gardens of Russia begins with them" - two common cherry diseases.

We have a very widespread cerebal cherry, which gives not some game fruits, and the full cherry (and her anchor Cherry on yield, but inferior to it in resistance in the country area.

A sample of the old Good People's Grade Vishni - Vladimirskaya. This is a standard of traditional exquisite taste of cherry. In addition, Cherry Vladimir is today, as it were, our landmark, a lighthouse in the fog of the current uncertainty with this culture. Vladimirka proves that the cherry can be successfully grown in the middle lane.

Vladimir Cherry, Russian gardens and horse manure

Why exactly Vladimir region? Hard to say. In general, if we proceed from the main requirement - not acidic, neutral, and even better limestone soil, then there is a suitable place - the limestone carpet raising (part of the Occo-Tsninsky shaft). On the limestone deposits, as it is known, the top-carbonate soils are formed on top, very fertile and rich humus, with an near-neutral indicator of the pH. Paradise for all fruit trees, especially since it is usually well-pronounced hills: height differences, slopes ...

However, it seems that everything was wonderful in Russia and without limestones in Russia in all gardens and cities due to horse manure. Each settlement was flooded with horses, the manure was in a literal sense, and the duties of the janitor were somewhat different than today. Every day I had to stand with a broom and a scoop at the sidewalk, and otherwise the street will be flooded to the dinner ...

And from this any city in Russia (Vladimir, Kaluga, Vologda, Tula, etc.), according to numerous evidence, until the beginning of the twentieth century was one solid fruit garden. The fruit trees grew in all the courtyards and along the streets, they were solid thickets. You can even believe that there are no other trees there: the whole vegetation of the city and courtyards was replaced by apple-pear-cherry. And everything fruits. (It was then only began to plant a poplar along the streets.)

Judging by the intic ages of the 19th century, in particular about extensive cherry gardens directly in the city of Vladimir, the agricultural engineering in most courtyards was not good; Nobody bored with detailed cropping trees; Gardens grew in fact on Samotek, if, of course, not to consider the main trump card, which outweighs all the flaws - horse manure: he was simply layered under the trees, so it turned into a net humid.

An example of Vladimir Cherry Gardens shows us that when complying with the key condition, the cherry is extremely simple: humus! It eliminates soil acidity - this is what is very important for cherry. It will grow more precisely on sour soils, and do not be fruit.

By the way, which is noteworthy, in the Vladimir region, the cherry was bred by the root pig, and not by vaccinations. And they grown in the form of a bush. The only pest was considered to be feathered. For ease, they put children with ratchets and other releasing inventors. But so it was not every year, since there was a pronounced frequency of fruiting, and plentifully cherry fruited about once every 3-4 years.

There is more unpretentious, as well as a more stable harvest, a variety of cherries is the so-called splock, it is common in the middle lane south of Moscow on gray forest soil. Kaluga, Tula region is all the places of its widespread (gray forest soils are more favorable in the pH indicator than the turf-podzolic).

You probably met her: the local population sells it in July in the markets in small ulles along with the berries of the gooseberry and raspberry: a small light-red cherry reminds a sinner to taste. Spanking cherry is a hybrid of sweet cherries with an ordinary cherry.

There is also another species of Pspanks: large with dark color, common in Ukraine and in more southern places of our country. The splock is also a cornescoatous plant, which is propagated from the pores.

Cherry is a fairly capricious tree for the conditions of the middle strip. It hits something quickly and to a huge size, but the crop - single berries - to put it mildly, disproportionately less than the sizes of the crown. For several basic reasons.

Needed yet variety pollinator. Although it is believed that Vladimir Cherry (practically popular) partially self-free, often groves from the strokes of the same variety stand without a single berry. In this regard, to buy any grafted variety, even if a limited period, for the sake of polling the main "state" of several large trees - a possible measure.

Fertilizer: The soil must be turned into a similarity of the black soil in nutrition, not forgetting about the fraction of limestone. The proof of this is the fact that in the chernozem zone, cherry thickets in the villages are regularly fruiting either annually and without any care and spraying. Even manure is not needed, because the chernozem and everything has everything. There, the cherry jam is inhibited by three-liter banks, and even dry it on the filling for pies.

Shelter for winter. This can serve as another key condition. Green, healthy on the view of the cherry tree krone can have frozen (dead) flowering kidneys in winter.

To verify, it is necessary to conduct experience in winter bending to Earth any of the fuel trunks - cover the earth and snow at least part of the branches. The baked tree is fixed in this position, for example, a wide board with a cargo of bricks.

In case of success, then you should grow your cherry cherry trees in a bush form of 3-5 trunks instead of one thick trunk, so that it was easier to bend annually for the winter. So, by the way, and entered in the old days. In the spring, the stem will not be straightened entirely, but leave to grow at an angle of 45 °, making the bush is wide and better lit.

The cooler of the clay of numerous twigs of the cherry is too time consuming. But the sprinkled land of the branches of the inclined cherry thus protect against the blooming: they are freed from the ground closer to May, when the flowered wave is already going.

In this regard, the Cherry bush system is similar to a plenty pink bush, whose escape tilts on the winter to the earth for so many years until he breaks. Then it is cut, continuing to tilt the rest, as a result of the bush as a whole long remains high and lush.

Protection of stems Before the winter is required if you are not hiding in other frosts your trees. The coating with a solution of clay is the best solution instead of different windings.

Friendly plants For the cherry, I installed only a few, from those whom you can simply plant in the rolling circles instead of unacceptable arrow. This is primarily from perennial and shadow-potes: hosts, primrose, tongs, Barbaris Tunberg.

Concerning trimming Cherry seedlings, then we don't do it most often, even introduced the rule: "boneless does not cut!". And all due to the fact that the wounds are healing slowly than the apple tree, and through them it is possible to penetrate the most infections that are already accustomed to fear like fire.

You can agree with this, although the cornesological cherries are resistant to infection: if you grow a cherry tree not more than 10 years of age, replacing them with young out of our own pins (in the same bush or "unworn" to the side), then they have no trimming And it is not required, during this time they just have time to thicken.

Among the frequent is the question of what to do with gamyture - release of cherry glue on the trunk. Yes, nothing to do, it's more often to rot my cherry thickets, not allowing the aged astaquals with the crust cracked from frost, from where cherry juice expires.

Comment Article "Dry leaves on cherry, a little berries? Growing cherries without disease"

Send your story to publish on the site you can

Landing cherry

Plant cherries better in spring. From autumn you buy seedlings and check for the winter. Shelter for them can serve. When choosing a seedl, see that the strab was about 60 cm in diameter at least 2-2.5 cm, with a length of skeletal main branches about 60 cm (this is the size of a two-year seedling of tree cherry). Planted seedlings of cherries when the soil warms up and the kidneys will not dissolve. Landing Pits are usually preparing from autumn.

The soil should be neutral acidity, sandy, sampling or sublinous drained. (Determine its type will help the article).
Do not plant cherry in lowlands, where raw, windy microclimate prevails. She loves illuminated places.
Pass the soil in advance (to reduce its acidity, if it is acidic). To do this, scatter about 400 g of lime or dolomite flour per 1 square meter. m, reap the soil to the depth of the bayonet shovel, mix with. It may be manure or compost about 15 kg per 1 kV. Mineral fertilizers are also added.

Important:Lime and manure bring at different times, lime the soil before Application in it organic fertilizers!

When landing, take the distance between the plants about 3 m. For cross-peer varieties, consider the possibility of pollination. To do this, have to plant a total of at least 4 varieties of cherry. They are placed in the garden according to the circuit 2.5 x 3 m at high trees and at 2.5 x 2 m at low. Exceptions are self-polished varieties.

Drop the landing a hole of about 80 cm in diameter, in a depth of about 50 cm, it is possible to 60. When you dig a hole, put the top layer of the earth in one direction, mix it with organic and mineral fertilizers, as well as wood ash (about). Important:Lime and to the landing pit Do not contributeso as not to damage the roots!
Wheel in the center of the peg, place the landing mix in the pit, pouring around the Kolyka by the cone, so that it is more convenient to straighten the roots on this pile, then lower the seedling there and spread it the roots. You need to monitor the root neck to be at the soil level, you can plant a centimeter by 4 higher, as then the earth will fall. This is done in order to not be a seedling, because the cherry does not like a swallowed landing.
The trunk of the village is squeeze on the northern side of the cavalley strictly vertically. Sprinkle the roots and slam down a bit.
Next, make a hole near the seedling, on the edges, pour the land roller, pour the water bucket in the hole, and after Pleigh, inspire the soil of the priority circle with a motor or peat. Gently tear the sapling to the peg.

Care for cherry

The young church of the first year after landing watered, the soil loose and peat or humus

Making fertilizers

Usually fertilizers begin to enter when the cherry begins to be fron. The fertilization rate is selected based on the state of the plant and its age. Organic fertilizers make every few years, it may be overwhelmed null and compost. In the fall, adopt the fruiting cherries with phosphoric and potash fertilizers and in the spring, make nitrogen (with a lack of nitrogen).

During the growing season, as a rule, two feeding are carried out. One after flowering, another two weeks after the first one. Young fertilizer cherries are brought to the rolling circle, and when the garden is already full, then throughout the plot. If the level of acidity is higher than the norm, then the soil is murdered by dolomite flour, lime. I scatter ash from birch burning, drains branches.

Watering

After flowering trees. It helps them get the fruits. Water so much that soil is not sour, but was moistened by 40-45 cm deep.

Trimming

A feature of Cherry is the rapid growth of shoots, because of which the crown is very thickened and a large number of small twigs are formed. If the crown is cut, the fruits are larger, biscuit branches longer live (they are formed by cherries) and foliage healthier. Therefore, it is necessary to trim branches, if the length of the shoots are more than 50 cm, by the way, it will help to avoid the debris of the branches when biscuit branches are rejected. Publications will help you to master the subtlety of the trimming: in addition, you can take training in our.

Crown
The best option for cherry is a rarely long-tier krone. Cut the cherry early spring for three weeks before the swelling swelling.

Important:for cherries, the belt-like and flat crown does not fit.

Begin to form a crown immediately after landing.

Removal of root pores

So that the tree did not give up their nutrients, remove the root piglets. It can be used for catching.

Reproduction of cherry

The seed method of breeding cherry is extremely rare. It is good only for growing a stock, which you will do vaccination. More often for breeding, or reproduction of root piglets.

Shining

Take the cuttings in mid-July, cut off in the morning, to the heat, from those trees you want to grow. Green shoots are well suited, which grow up on the south side of the tree or bush.
Cutted cuttings wet water, the upper part with underdeveloped leaves are removed, then a cutlength of about 12 cm, having from 4 leaves, is cut from the remaining escape.
Vertically put a cutlery in a bin with a planting mixture, deepen it with a 3 cm end, go a little soil around the cutlets. It is planted from each other at a distance of about 7 cm.
Place the seedlings in a light warm room, excluding direct sunlight for the best rooting. You can put the drawer on the box, and on them the film.
After rooting the cuttings temper, removing the film.
Winter cuttings in jackets.
In the spring, you can grow them in a permanent place or to grow.

What lacks an apple tree, peach, cherry ..

Apple tree grows poorly.

The apple tree may not be bad or at all increase for many reasons. First of all, she may not like the soil on which she was "settled". This happens if the soil is severe in its mechanical composition, i.e. Close to the surface is the soil-forming breed (clay).

Nothing good will also be, if the apple tree was planted on the site of another apple tree. Unfortunately, some gardeners do not take into account this and instead of planting some other tree on the place of the old apple tree, they are trying to grow apple tree again, but the old roots remaining in the soil, highlighting harmful substances, do not contribute to this.

Apple tree grows poorly And in such cases: if the wood frozen was observed at one time, if the input is incompatible with the drive, or the vaccination is blunted. So think is over what, trying to find a solution in each case.

As for the nutritional mode, it should be noted that not all fruit rocks and not even all varieties within the same breed are equally demanding of fertilizers. Thus, the trees of bone rocks take less nutrients from soil than seedless, they are less demanding about soil fertility.

What soils grow a sweet cherry, plum, apricot, peach.

For cherry The most favorable soils of the light mechanical composition, on heavy it begins to dying. An unfavorable effect is provided on young trees of cherry and nitrogen fertilizers. Cherry, growing on light soils, is better reacting to the introduction of potash fertilizers, and phosphoric is advisable to apply only to maintain the ratio of nutrient elements in the plant. The sweet cherry is most sensitive to soil salinization.

Plum grows and fruits On all types of soil, with the exception of heavily moistened. It is best to react to potash fertilizers.

Apricot Also grow on different types of soil, but it feels the most well felt on light-coded soils and squeeces with clay under the soil. This culture takes a better salinity, less sensitive to sodium. When feeding apricot should not be preferred by nitrogen fertilizers, since the excess of nitrogen leads to the growth of trees without increasing yields, reduces the winter hardiness.

Peach is growing On any soil, except for wetlands. This culture is more demanding of high potassium security. All these recommendations may be useless if you do not know the advantages and minuses of your soil. Therefore, it is desirable to analyze them in agrochemical laboratories. In particular, the specialists of our experienced station can produce an agrochemical survey of the soil and give a thorough recommendation for the cultivation of various cultures and breeds to gardeners and gardens of Eastern Ukraine. But there are such stations in other regions of the country.

What soil fits fruit trees and berry shrubs

The beginning of autumn is the time of planting fruit and berry crops. Fruit trees can be squeezed in autumn and spring. However, in the spring in the non-Black Zone, their seedlings still take root and grow better. But the berry cultures are worth landing in autumn, as they are awakening early, their kidneys begin to open, and in such a form, seedlings are getting worse, they are sick, often even dying. Choosing plants and place for landing them, we are always wondering if it will be well a culture on the site, whether it will give a good harvest if it will grow long, please be a lush flowering and delicious fruits or berries.

Selecting the landing place at random, without taking into account the state of the soil, we risk providing a planted trees or shrub condition not quite or not at all suitable for its normal development. At the same time, demanding too much on an unprepared or unsuitable soil and not getting the desired, we begin to blame seller's sellers, which is most often unreasonable. In this article I will try to tell about the most common fruit and berry cultures and their preferences to soil conditions.

Let's start, of course, from the queen of gardens - apple. This culture is light-loving, even a small shading can lead to excessive discharge of the wound and, of course, to a decrease in yield. The soil of the apple tree prefers different, it can be quite good to grow on gray forest, dend-podzolic, chernozem, but all of them must be a light mechanical composition and have a neutral or, as a last resort, a weakly acidic response. The apple tree does not end the excess water, so it is not worth it in microplations. It also includes the level of groundwater, located closer than 1.5 meters to the surface of the soil. It is better to plant an apple tree on the soils of rested, you can after vegetable crops, but not after the apple tree or pear.

Almost not inferior to an apple tree in popularity in the people pear. This is a more problematic culture, alas, often frozing in the gardens. To prevent this, choose a plot of southern orientation to land a pear, avoid places with dominant northern winds. As for the soil, the pear simply adores the soil wet, of course, they should not be wetlands, and the level of groundwater should not be closer than the meter. The best soils in composition are loam and squeezes, weakly-walled soils, aligned without microcupadin and slightness.

Juicy and sweet cherrywhich is now paying a lot of attention, as well as a pear, loves a lot of light and is not distinguished by a special winter hardiness - it is better not to plant it in the sludge. He loves the cherry well-ventilated places - it is less often ill, and the soil loves fertile, light mechanical composition, with high air permeability and neutral reaction. Lightweight and average loams are what she needed, and subject to annual fertilizer fertilizers will be large and permanent.

Sweet and juicy plum - A kind of northern peach. She, like her beautiful fellow, adores warmth and sunlight. In the shade, even short-term, good harvest to wait, but if you plan a sapling on the south side into the soil is a wet, a subline, having a thick fertile layer and a neutral reaction of the medium, then the drain will necessarily give you a rich crop of delicious fruits. It is afraid of plum of high groundwater, it will be better if they are no closer than 1.5 meters from the soil surface.

Solar berry - sea \u200b\u200bbuckthorn In any region prefers the solar place, in the shade and growing weakly, and the crops give low. The best soils under sea buckthorn are fertile with moisture, lungs, with groundwater level is not closer to the meter to the surface of the soil. When disembarking the sea buckthorn to the place after the garden flashes, avoid places with previously growing bone cultures on them. To avoid accumulation in the soil of common pests, do not land it next to strawberries or raspberries. The sea buckthorn in any area of \u200b\u200bthe cultivation necessarily needs a pollinator, usually at 5-6 female plants it is necessary to plant at least two male forms.

Recently, becomes popular and hazelnut - Tree of longevity. It can be removed on the site as a well-lit place, and slightly shaded, but the soil must be well anchored, loose and very fertile. There is a pattern in the ratio of walls and pulp - on coarse, small-sided soils with a lack of moisture moisture in nuts are substantially less. The best soils are loam. Growing the hazelnut in the black earthly region, try to pick up the soils are quite aerial with groundwater level not closer than meters.

Excellent tool from high pressure is considered ariaHere everything is simple - this culture is completely undemanding to soil, has a high winter hardiness, which allows you to grow it in various climatic conditions of regions on most types of soil. The only thing that would be noted should be remembered: Aria speaks in its own way to too nutritious soils or making large doses of fertilizers. There will be a sharp increase in crown growths on a background of rather strong, up to the complete absence, reducing the crop.

Another kings of the garden, only from another tier - among shrubs - it is currant red and black. Unfortunately, over the years of their cultivation, these cultures have accumulated many pests and diseases, so without treatments, alas, no one season. To at least somehow reduce the number of spraying harmful to man, try to plant currants on clean soils. Better, if the predecessor is pure steam. Soils for currant are preferable black-grinding, well-warmed, aerated, without stagnation of melt or rainwater, because it causes a disease with mildew. In regions with a predominance of gray forest soils, pay attention to acidity - it must be at the PH-5.5 level. Try not to plant currants near the gooseberry or raspberry.

This culture is rather undemanding, drought-resistant, prefers air-permeable soils with groundwater level is not closer than meters, it feels quite well in any regions and gives rich yields on any types of soil. There are reliable information that maximum yields achieved even on soils strongly scribed, no gooseberry, perhaps only excess moisture. Therefore, in the regions with excess moisture, it is necessary to arrange drainage when landing.

She, like the gooseberry, culture is not very demanding soil. At the same time, rather aggressive, its root piglers quickly spreads over the site, delivering the gardeners a lot of inconvenience. Under the raspberry, "unnecessary" places in the site are often distinguished, but it is novelly. Of course, raspberries will be fruit and there, even in conditions of lack of illumination, it is possible to obtain quite aimed yields, but the best fruiting and sufficiently good development of culture can be achieved only in areas whose soil is rich in nutrients, are water permeable, light and have a weakly acidic medium reaction.

A pleasant plant - beautifully blooms, gives useful fruits. This culture is just for those regions where the abundance of rainy days in the season is celebrated. Kalina loves moisture, gives abundant gains, good harvest. Of course, you should not land it right in the swamp, but near the reservoir she will grow well. A good option if the soils allocated under Kalopa will be well anchored and feature fertility. Kalina can grow well in the shadows, but it is better to get a well-lit plot under it.

Recently, thanks to the work of breeders, demand was revived and the fruits of Ryabina. This culture is relatively not demanding to soil conditions, ideal for the regions, the soil composition of which fertility is no different. Rowan loves light, but a slight shading can withstand with dignity. The varietal row is a little less winter-hardy than her wild sister, but even varieties can withstand freezes to -40 ° C. Ideal soils for rowan is considered to be labeled, scanty and even dyed swampy.

- Gorgeous culture, children's sweet berry. It stops her mass distribution, perhaps, only its high growth and the complexity of the collection of matured fruits arising with age. IRGA can grow and give good yields on any types of soil. It can grow even in rocky terrain, not scary for Irga stocks and lowering, soils whisen and too dry. It can be planted on the periphery of the plots in those regions where winter is too cold. Holding the snow on the site and holding back the gusts of the northern winds, IRGA can serve as protection for more thermal-loving plants.

Close to Irge in demand and useful cherry. This culture, which is now allocated only the place of decorative, will grow on any types of soil without fertilizers and polishes in almost all regions of Russia. With caustic, it should only be treated with soils very wetlands, although the cherry love loves.

Having loved by many Kizil prefers the soils are well anchored, rich in organic and minerals. In the regions where the soils are poor, sandy or clay about making fertilizers should be taken in advance. Different from Kizyl and landing scheme: it depends, first of all, from the soil fertility. So on the soils that differ in high nutritionality, planting plants must be less likely, on the poor soils - more often.

A spiny plant, which is often used to create impassable living hedges, prefers the soil of a variety of mechanical composition. Barbaris grows and gives good crops on loose loams, sandy soils and leaching chernozem. Preferring open places without shade, it has a high wind resistance and resistance to low negative temperatures. In regions with highly compacted soils, it is allowed when landing makes small amounts of peat.

Tender blueberries simply adores sunny places, prefers acidic soils with moisture. In regions with harsh climates and sandy soils, it is necessary to cover plants for the winter. The best soils under blueberries are peat-sand and peat-linous, well-drained with a high content of humus. Blueberries loves prosperity and even an abundance of moisture, which does not tolerate the other wide widespread culture - strawberries.

Even one flooding of rain or melt water can be enough to kill all plants. The best soils for strawberries are structural, high moisture-intensive, with a large content of humus and nutrients and a medium reaction close to neutral.

Does not like excess moisture and early honeysuckle. However, this culture is rather unpretentious and well succeeded on soils of any mechanical composition, therefore it is grown in all regions of Russia. Having a high winter hardiness, the honeysuckle can easily move the harsh winters on the soils of a heavy mechanical composition in the northern regions.

Aktinidia and Lemongrian

In conclusion, I would like to tell about two wonderful liano-like cultures, for the fruits of which are characterized by the high content of vitamin C - vitamin health and longevity. This is actinidia and lemongrass. Both cultures of Liana, and therefore should be grown on a chopler. They love quite good lighting, drained soils, characterized by a weakly acidic reaction for which the flooding is not characteristic. Microloan and decreases are better to avoid, especially in the regions with a harsh climate, because in such areas usually lower temperatures are observed, which may be destructive for quite poorly resistant crops.

High yields!

Nikolay Chromov,
candidate of Agricultural Sciences
researcher,
department of Berry Cultures Into Vnis. I.V. Michurina
member of the Academy of Nirr

www.floraprice.ru.

Why not fruit cherry

What is the cause of the lack of fruits on such a yield culture, like a cherry? There may be several reasons here.

Sour soil

Cherry is poorly grows on soils with increased acidity. It should be noted that in the middle band, almost all soils have reduced pH values, but at wetlands and ex-cutting of coniferous forests, soil acid is much stronger than expressed. In such places, without additional agrotechnical events, the cherry does not take root and, accordingly, may not be fron.

In the described situation, it is necessary to regularly add alkaline components to the soil. The most effective will be the limestone and dolomite flour. It is required to add not only to the landing jam when planting a seedling, but also to regularly close in the soil around the perimeter of the rolling collar. To do this, the groove is a depth of approximately 1/2 bayonet shovels, the dolomitic flour is laid in it and the earth is falling asleep.

No varieties of pollinators

To date, a large number of cherry varieties are derived, among which there are even large-scale cherry hybrids with cherries with cherries - Dyuki. Some varieties are self-free, but most require cross-pollination. In this regard, at least 2 different cherry varieties should grow on the site.

It is desirable that one of them is a universal pollinator. Such varieties are Lyskaya, Vladimirk, Shubinka and some others. These varieties are old grades, and in many respects inferior to the taste qualities of new. However, they can help get abundant yields.

Mushroom diseases

Practically all bone cultures to one degree or another are infected with coccquoms and moniliosis. In particular, cherry trees suffer from them.

The greatest threat of harvest is moniliosis. The spores of the mushroom ripen and spread the wind during the period of cherry blossom. Infection occurs through a flower. After the end of the flowering and the appearance of the grocery, the gardener notes that the twig with the fetal fruits suddenly fades it as if her fell fire. This is a manifestation of mushroom activities, the so-called monilla burn.

To reduce the disease to a minimum, it is necessary in the spring to carry out a prophylactic spraying. The first processing is carried out on a green cone, the second - after flowering. You can process with any drug aimed at the destruction of mushroom infections, for example, Chorus or Soon. As a rule, at the same time handle the garden and pests.

Processing will prevent the massive disease of the landings, but separate branches can still be infected. In this case, infected branches are cut and burned.

Incorrect use of fertilizers

All gardeners seek to obtain environmentally friendly products on their own dacha. In this regard, they are trying not to use chemical fertilizers, but only enjoy ash and manure or compost. I must say that this is in a sense of self-deception (in the feed cow is not only grass).

Manure and compost are mainly nitrogen suppliers to the soil. The ash is the source of trace elements. At the same time, the plant requires such macrospace such as potassium and phosphorus. And if potassium is enough in the soil, then phosphorus is less common. But it is he who is responsible for the timely aging of flower kidney in fruit plants.

Gardeners using manure, for feeding cherries, contribute to the soil a significant amount of nitrogen and at the same time increase the soil acidity. Nitrogen stimulates vegetation. If its source remains unused until mid-summer, then vegetative processes do not stop and interfere with the aging of flowering kidney and young shoots. This leads to the fact that the plant does not have time to prepare for Winter. As a result, the spring gardeners discover the frosts on the trees, and the riveting flowering does not lead to a rich crop.

To avoid a similar result, after starting fruiting, cherry trees stop feeding organic fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers are chosen in such a way that phosphorus and potassium prevailed in them.

Excessive moisturizing

The overvocation may also be the cause of the lack of harvest by Cherry. In areas with close underground waters, the cherry may not take care at all. However, if it passed on, its yield can highly depend on the change in soil moisture. In order to maximize this factor, it is necessary to organize a network of drainage channels on the entire site.

Wrong landing

Another reason for the absence of crops on the cherry can be the wrong planting of the seedlings. When planting the seedlings of fruit trees is categorically not allowed to shrink the root neck. Do not be afraid that the tops of the roots may not be closed, they can always be poured later.

The rehabilitation of the root cervix threatens, at best, long rooting of the seedling in a permanent place, in the worst - his death. If the seedlock did not die, then his fruiting can be lined for several years. At the same time, the first few years of flowering will not bring harvest. This is due to the struggle for survival in the conditions you have created. The struggle takes all the strength of the plant and the formation of full-fledged flower kidney resources is already missing.

In addition, a ruble landing stimulates the growth of the root row, which creates additional inconveniences for the gardener.

If the above conditions are taken into account when landing and growing the cherrywood, then in gratitude, this culture will bring to you every year to make abundant yields with all the favorite fruits.

www.superSadovnik.ru.

What soil is growing cherry

Name: Latin name Roda serasus. It happened from the name of the city of Cerak, now the kersunt, on the Black Sea coast of Malaya Asia, from where, according to legend, she was first brought to Rome.

Description: Contains about 150 species growing in East Asia, Europe and North America. Some views are suitable for cultivation in Russia. Leaf fall trees or shrubs with oblong-egg-shaped leaves; White, sometimes pink fragrant flowers collected in umbrella inflorescences. Fruits - busty, juicy, mostly edible, red or black. Most species are cultivated as food and medicinal. Due to its high decorativeness during flowering and fruiting, they can be widely used in decorative gardening.

Cherry Melkopilician 'Kwanzo'
Photo of EFSR.

Grow fast. Light-loving, drought-resistant, well tolerate urban conditions. Wild-growing species are multiplied with seeds, root siblings, garden forms - vaccine. With seed reproduction, sowing is produced in summer, immediately after the collection, washes, unreasonable seeds, as well as in the fall and spring. With spring crops, stratification is required throughout the winter. Used single or small groups on well-lit places.

The most burning question, of course, about Sakura, which many Russians want to have to have to have in the country, in order to make spring ceremony of admirement by Japanese cherries. Well, in some places, this is really possible on the immense expanses of Russia. Only, first let's see what Sakura is? The most authoritative source in this business is solid literature from the country of the rising sun. In 1963, the book "Garden Plants of Japan" was published there, which the dendrologists of Tokyo University F. Kitamura and Y. Ishitsi wrote for foreign specialists in Europe and America. According to this edition, Sakuras include the following types, including their forms and varieties: Prunus Jamasakura, P. Serrulata, P. Subhirtella, P. Lannesiana, P. Sargentii, P. Glandulosa, P. Sieboldii, P. Yedoensis, P. Campanulata.

Cerasus Serrulata.
Photo Kravchenko Kirill

In my homeland, these are trees with a height of 6-10 m or more. Decorative Japanese Sakura's decorative Japanese cherries were brought at the beginning of the 20th century by prof. Krasnov - on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. They were decorated at the Batumi Botanical Garden first, and later subtropical arborretum in Sukhumi. The richest collection - over 40 best forms - was delivered from Japan in 1936 by a special expedition of the Narkomsa in the famous Dendropark of the Adler's Association "Southern Cultures". By the way, the whole collection in the "southern crops" was as forms of cherry small (P. serulata). Of course, Sakura grows not only in subtropics, but also in Moldova, Transcarpathia, in Ukraine, in the Krasnodar Territory, Stavropol, in the south of Primorsky Krai. And the inhabitants of the middle strip and the northern regions are better to recall their native cherries - blizzard-white, poetic, sneezing in Russian literature and verses, and prose. Especially close to South Sakura Cherry ordinary f. Raxa ( P. vulgaris f. Rexii.), which grows great in the suburbs, and even more south.

Planting material: The cherry begins the growing season very early, and the seedling is not always taken from the nursery from the nursery before planting is at rest. Purchase seedlings are best in autumn, after the natural falling leaves occurs. Then it is stored until spring in a sloping touch on the plot, providing him with protection against damage to mice, as well as from freezing and drying. In early April, the seedlock is planted into the garden for a permanent, in advance of the selected place in a strictly defined scheme: 3 x 3 m for strongly and average varieties of cherries and cherries, 2 x 3 (2) m for weary varieties, mainly originating from Cherry Steppe. Subsequent transplant, especially with age, the cherry strictly does not accept.

As a landing material, the tops are twisted with a height of 70-80 cm with ridiculous wood and developed bulk root system. Saplings deposited on a high nitrogen background - they are characterized by greenish bark and a height of more than 1.5 m - are not standard planting material. The best - when even a two-year-old Cherry has a height of 100-110 cm. It is undesirable that the cherry seedlings be obtained in greenhouse conditions without subsequent growing in the second year in the open soil.

From the types of planting material of the cherry, preference is given to sages of threshing origin, seedlings obtained from the summer eyelidation of sleeping kidney (rather than grafted in spring cuttings) and the corrosive seedlings grown in a two-year cycle of green cuttings necessarily in the open soil.

The planting material should be grown in climatic conditions close to the place of implementation, using only a zoned or promising for this region of the assortment, as well as zoned trips (in the case of graft culture).

Location: Under the landing of the cherries, they choose the part of the elevated elements of the relief, with good air and soil drainage, best on the slopes, and the slope of the slope should not exceed 7-8 °, as a last resort of 15 °. On the plain sections of the cherry develops worse and more often falls under frost. Not suitable for laying a cherry garden Raw nizes, brand and forest glads with poor air aeration.

The direction of the slopes is also of great importance. Western, Northwest and Southwestern slopes, thanks to their inherent moderate humidity and sufficient thermal stress, create the best conditions for cultivation of cherries in most regions of the middle strip of Russia. As for the southern, it would seem that more preferable for this culture of the slopes, here there are sharp fluctuations in winter temperatures lead to the burns of the bark and the death of flowering kidney. In addition, in the summer period there is a shortage of moisture. Even the northern, eastern and northeastern slopes are much more preferable to the southern: on the northern slopes of the cherry, it is later blooming and, therefore, less falls under frosts, but also the ripening of the crop occurs later (and berries are less sweet); The influence of matineers and dry cold winds appears on the eastern and northeastern east and northeasternative.

Cherry Sarjenta
Photo of Mursa Irina

The soil: For cherries, soil accuracy of acidity, mechanical composition and moisturizing are very important. The reaction of the soil medium should be strictly neutral or at least very close to it (pH 6.5-7.0). Even on the weakly acidic soils, the cherry grows poorly, it fertures worse and often freezes. In this case, mandatory limestriness is required to land. Local application of limestone materials directly into landing pits or trenches simultaneously with the landing decides sharpness of seedlings. Low and raw places with a summer level of groundwater occurrence within 2 m from the soil surface for planting cherries, and even more so cherries are unsuitable. Moreover, the north of the locality, the harder it is necessary to follow this requirement when choosing a plot for a cherry culture. In relation to the mechanical composition, the cherry gives preference to light and medium-sized sublinks, heavy clays without the appropriate preliminary ochulting for it are not suitable.

Care: From the elements of mineral nutrition, cherry responds sharply to a lack of nitrogen and potassium and to a lesser extent on phosphorus deficiency. However, all the rules of organic and mineral fertilizers should be made depending on the level of soil fertility. On poor soils, an approximately recommended dose of manure (humoring or compost) is 8-10 kg / m 2, on average -4-6 kg / m 2. Mineral fertilizers (phosphorus and potassium\u003e It is better to contribute in a dose of 18 g of the active substance by 1 m 2 in accordance with its content in this form of fertilizer. At higher doses of organic fertilizers, the minimum nutrition rate is reduced by 2 times.

Cherry culture needs irrigation and additional irrigation only in areas of insufficient moisture. With a strong drought, all the vegetative watering should be confined to the phases of the most active growth after the establishment of the wound (the end of May - the beginning of June) and the bookmarks of the Flower Kind of the next year (the end of July is the beginning of August). In any case, abundant irrigation finish 3-4 weeks before harvest, otherwise the fruits will be crazy and their quality will be worse.

How to get a crop:
The overwhelming number of cherry and cherry cherries are visible and therefore require a mandatory landing of varieties of pollinators. Selfless is considered to be the varieties, which from their pollen tie the fruits more than with natural pollination, or as much, while the typosability should be 18% of polished flowers. There are very few of these varieties, it is a lot, Lomskaya, Apukhtin, Dessert Volzhskaya, Change, Zhagore

Slightly more partially samopidal varieties: zayazing from its pollen 5-18% of fruits. These include Tambovchanka, Black-Building, Bystrina, Zhukovskaya, Shubinka, Rough, Brown, Rastuna, Turgenevka, Vladimirskaya, Sanya (although in relation to Vladimir, Shubinka and Zhukovskaya, there are opinions about their complete self-readiness). Such, at first glance, contradictory opinions indicate that in some extent, the sign of the sammondness of the varieties is determined by both the place of growth and weather conditions of this year of the growing season.

Due to self-absorption or partial self-escalation, most varieties belong to the category of crops (on average 6.5-7.0 kg, in some years 15-20 kg from wood) and high-yielding varieties (on average, 10-11 kg, and in some years up to 25-30 kg from wood). However, not all pollinators for self-satisfied cherry varieties are equivalent. Thus, the self-visible grid of Moscow increases its yield 2 times when pollined by the flask pink. Vladimirskaya for receiving record crops prefers sleepers and the same flask pink. Yes, and the flask itself is pink, although self-fruit, but is plentifully fruits in joint landings with Vladimir Cherry. Interestingly, for good pollination, cherries can be used as a pollinator a varietary or wild sweet cherry, especially for the varieties of Turgenevka, Podbelskaya, Apukhtinskaya.

In addition to self-resistance (and, of course, winter hardiness) for good yields requires complex resistance of varieties to pests and diseases, especially such a dangerous fungal disease, which has become in recent years for Cherry cockclock. It is "Thanks to" the latter, the old Vintage variety of Lyubovy (20-25 kg from the tree) went into the category of medium yields, when without the use of chemical protection measures, the fruits fell on average to 5.0-5.5 kg from the tree.

Therefore, when leaving the cherry garden, it is necessary to provide a set of measures against infection and the spread of kokkikosis, especially in the crude years and in thickened landings. Be sure to destroy the fallen leaves, early spring to carry out an eradicating spraying by nitrafen (200-300 g per 10 liters of water), as well as spraying immediately after flowering, 2-3 weeks after flowering and after harvesting. For this, the following drugs are suitable: 1% burglar liquid, copper chlorine (40 g per 10 liters of water), polych (in accordance with the attached instruction), colloidal sulfur (80 g per 10 liters of water). Good results showed additional processing in the second half of the vegetation with the preparation of "Sorrow". During the years of mass distribution of infection to destroy the wintering stage of the fungus, two weeks before the end of the vegetation, it is recommended to process with a 4% solution of urea (400 g per 10 liters of water) and after leaffall, repeat the processing with a 3% solution of iron vitriol (300 g per 10 l water).

In the system of protection measures, it is important to choose varieties, medium and high-resistant to Cokkkozik: Diamond, Crystal, Coral, Ray, Muse, Rough, toy, Meeting, Memory of Vavilov, Turgenevka, Shubinka, Bystrina, Zhukovskaya, Youth, generous. The highest resistant to the coccaosis (practically immunity) is characterized by hybrids of cherry with Cherrykh, in particular Cerapadus - Variety variety.
materials Article B. Vorobyev "Taste of ripe cherries" // "Flora" - 1999 - №3

58. Why do the cherries crack the fruits, then they often get or dry?

Attach because the cracks in the berries got infection, and are cracking due to excess moisture in the soil.

59. Why are Cherry Fruits Complete Black Spots? Most often because the cherry is ill coccquit. It is easy to determine this mushroom disease, because plants have an early yellowing of the leaves and their premature reset. The causative agent of the disease, mushroom, winter on fallen leaves, so they should be removed, and the soil and plants spray the drug containing copper (burglar liquid, copper sulfate, "Hom", "Oxychich", "Polych"), or "Zircon". This spraying should be done with the dissolution of the kidneys, dissolving buds and after harvesting, and do not forget to spray at the same time under plants. A good result gives a spraying by the drug "Phytosporin", but the cherries should be poured regularly (after 2-3 weeks) throughout the season.

60. What is the monilion of bone cultures and how to protect the cherry from him?

This is a mushroom disease (gray rot). It manifests itself in the spring, at the time of flowering, in the form of burns of leaves and young shoots, which darken, fade and dry up literally in a matter of days. In the summer there is a secondary infection of new shoots from branches affected by spring. Old branches dry, since the mushroom penetrates into the wood, then the bark begins. Wet, cool, tightening spring a lot contributes to the widespread dissemination of this disease.

The most effective is a spraying "zircon" at the time of the blooming of the kidneys, then at the time of the appearance of buds, before flowering, after flowering and after fruiting. Spring spraying "Zircon" is particularly effectively in a pair with "Epinoma Extra". In August, dry branches should be cut, and plants spray with the drug "Hom" (or another containing copper). To preserve the cherry, sick moniliosis, these spraying will have to be done annually.

Everything that said about the cherry belongs to the drain.

61. Why does the felt cherry dying? Most often because the root neck heers, and she does not renew the root pig. In the northwest, this is a frequent phenomenon due to winter thaws and long-term autumn rains. Squeeze the cherry (any) so that the root neck towers above the soil surface. The felt cherry is better to put on the turn, then it does not threaten the ripening of the root cervix. By the way, the felt cherry does not sick moniliosis and is not subject to coccusikosis.

62. Is it possible to take a sharp from cherry and plum? If you have a cornesological plants, then the pigstream fully retains the parent properties, that is, you will grow from the swords and plums of the same variety. But if the plants were vaccinated on some kind of diving (and often they take a diet, grown from bones as a dot, then the pigle will also be a rag, that is, will bring poor quality fruits.

63. At what distance from the parent plant you can take a piglet? No closer to 2 m from the trunk, otherwise you deprive the parent plant roots.

64. Why did the branches and the leaves be taken off the cherries and the leaves only at the most ends?

If the cherry has turned into a broom, then you have too big increments. Normal increase for cherry about 30 cm. If the increase is less, then the plant is weakened. Branches should be proper, remove part of the trunks, increase feeding and watering. If the gains are more than 50 cm, then only flower kidneys are laid, which after fruiting die, and the branch is broken. Vegetative kidneys from which the leaves are developing, such a branch is laid only at the most ends.

At the end of each summer, check the new increment. As soon as the branch has grown to 30 cm, pull out the upper kidney at its end. Growth will suspend, and not only floral, but also vegetative kidneys from which leaves will grow are started. Top kidney pulls on all nutrients. Branched branches should be cut to the place of attachment to the trunk. If all the tree or bush is denied, then cut the branches gradually, for three years. It is impossible to allow strong thickening of the crown, so to sprinkle it at the end of summer or early in spring, before the start of the cojoint. Bone cultures can not be cut late in the spring, they will begin gaming.

65. For the third year, the cherry grows on the site, it blooms very abundantly and beautiful, but not fruits. What is the case?

If you planted on the site only one cherry tree, then perhaps your problem is in this. Cherry - a purely cross-permeable plant, so only one tree cannot be grown. Need a pollinator, and not what it fell, but the one that is suitable for the variety you chose. There are samopidal varieties of cherries and plums, as a rule, this is a variety of folk breeding, here they should be bought. There are also cultural varieties of self-free cherries, but this does not mean that it is possible to plant only one cherry tree - the crop will be meager, as well as in the absence of the desired pollinator. It is necessary to plant in any case at least two or three samopidal cherries.

The cause of poor fruiting may be frosts that kill not yet caused by flower kidneys. And they ripen only by late autumn. Or, on the contrary, the late spring frosts when the flowers have already revealed flowers. Sometimes spring frosts pass when the plants have already formed young wounds, then they are resetting them, since young launches are also vulnerable, like open flowers. In the regions where strong spring frosts are, plants can be helped by spraying them with the drugs "Novosil" or "Epin-Extra". It is better to do this before the start of frost. It is possible to progress, spraying the cherries by buddies with one of the drugs containing a gibbereline hormone: "Bud", "Zajaz" or "HypperSib". In fact, Gibberelin produces plant leaves, but it is not enough to increase the strings. Additional doses of the hormone begin to highlight the growing seeds after fertilization. But if the fertilization for any reason did not happen, then the wound fell. Making a hormone through the leaves, you are deceiving the plants, and the ovary begin to grow even in the absence of fertilization.

However, the reset of uncess happens not only because of the late spring frosts, but also from the lack of potassium and calcium soil, which is necessary for plants for bone extension. In addition, the kokkkomikosis and monilion also cause premature fiction of the strings and, as a result, the absence of a crop.

66. Vishni has a very small increase. This is normal?

Of course, abnormally. Small increase indicates poor care - disadvantage of moisture and nutrition, poor protection against diseases and pests. Help the plant, and it will restore the normal increase, which should be about 40 cm. Over time we will have to trim together with a barley barrel, to which such twigs are attached, to shorten them there is no point, since you will do the only rovy kidney, and the naked branch will grow further will not be.

With bad increases, the plant should be sprayed a couple of times during the summer, reinforcing the growth of the ends of the shoots, and filter the extracell microbial preparation in accordance with the instructions attached to the drug.

67. We have in the area of \u200b\u200bwater problems, watering trees is extremely difficult. Cherry Zassuhoupistile? In principle, like Apricot, the cherry is completely drought-resistant, but in the dry spring and the beginning of summer in the irrigation still needs. Watering should be around the perimeter of the crown of the plant, in the evening, 4-6 buckets under the tree. In the rainy summer, naturally, you can not water, because the cherry does not like congestive waters.

68. What to feed the cherry?

Undercotting in the spring - ash, in a liter can, on a damp soil, around the perimeter of the crown, 1 tablespoon of urea and 2 tablespoons of ineffective potassium (when feeding chloride chloride drops the leaves) on 10 liters of water (at least 3-4 buckets on the plant). Can be replaced with Potash Selutyra (2 tablespoons). During intensive growth, barring should be sprayed on the leaves with a solution of trace elements. In addition, you need another liter ash bank for bone extension.

In mid-August - 2 tablespoons of double granular superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium on 10 liters of water (at least 4 buckets) and again a liter can of ash. Lithing ash can be replaced with 1 glass of dolomite.

Late in the fall, after resetting the leaves, you can make a pair of buckets of the organicists or pour feces, like Apricot.

69. Is it possible to plant the cherry near the raspberry bushes? Do not. The cherry will be strongly angry with raspberries, so it is better to post them in different places in the garden.

70. What types of cherries are best planted in the North-West region? Cherry is better to plant steppe or sandy. These cherries grow low bushes, the fruits of them are pretty small, with a lot of juice, but the jam and wine are obtained from them canceled, and the crop they give abundant and annual.