Why did the dracaena drop its leaves. Dracaena diseases: causes, symptoms and treatment. Required time for transplantation
Dracaena is a showy evergreen plant. It can be found both in apartments and in offices. It is valued by amateur flower growers and designers for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite its undemanding and non-capriciousness, dracaena suffers from unintentional care errors, attacks by pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects its presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.
How to create a dracaena optimal microclimate
Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing difficult in creating an optimal microclimate for it at home. But it is still worth listening to the requirements of the plant, trying to create an environment for it that is as close as possible to the one to which it is accustomed in nature.
Dracaena is a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant
Table: suitable conditions for growing dracaena
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | Not far (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. It is not recommended to put close to the south window in order to avoid sunburn. In the summer, if dimensions allow, you can take the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts. |
| Lighting | Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in completely artificial light, if daylight hours last at least 12 hours. |
| Temperature | In spring and summer - moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter, it is slightly lowered - up to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (tolerate a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10ºС or more can lead to the death of the plant. |
| Air humidity | It normally exists at a standard air humidity of 40–50% (dracaena Dragon and Godsphere are especially undemanding to it), but responds with gratitude to any measures to increase it. The only thing that should not be done is to pour water into the pan. In winter, running radiators dry the air a lot, so it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water every 2-3 days. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into the sockets, or arrange a shower by covering the soil with polyethylene. At least once a week, be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge. |
Pick up a dracaena place near the window; it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of its size
In addition to the optimal microclimate, timely feeding and the correct watering regimen have a great influence on how the plant feels.
In summer, you need to let the soil in the pot dry out about 4–5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick into the pot. One procedure every 2-3 days is enough. In winter, the intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil with a cool content, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have more evaporation area. A clear signal is drooping leaves that have lost their tone. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.
The material on the conditions of keeping Sander's dracaena will also be useful:
As for dressings, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20–30 days, moistening the soil well in about half an hour. If you use a universal remedy for indoor plants, pay attention to the composition. An excess of phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to a deterioration in the appearance of the leaves. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.
Video: maintenance and care of a flower at home
Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention
Dracaena, which is properly cared for, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogens, viruses and bacteria. Most often, these types of problems with the plant are the result of unintentional errors of the owner. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble for the grower.
The most dangerous for her are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured by modern means. In this case, the plant must be destroyed as soon as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you can lose the entire collection.
Most often, in order to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:
- quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25–30 days;
- regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and the immediate isolation of "suspicious" specimens;
- free, without crowding, placement of pots;
- frequent ventilation of the room and maintaining high humidity;
- placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if they are roses or chrysanthemums;
- mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
- processing of all "wounds" inflicted on the dracaena;
- implementation of recommendations for caring for the plant, especially those related to watering and fertilizing;
- maintaining cleanliness - regularly dusting the leaves and carrying out other permitted water procedures.
Problem Diagnosis
The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. The deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs and know what to do in each case.
Table: symptoms and possible causes
| External manifestations | Possible reasons | ||
| Mistakes in care | Disease | Pest | |
| Yellowing and wilting leaves. | Their life span is about two years. Otherwise - excessive watering | ||
| Pale, shrinking leaves, deformed, thinning trunks. | Light deficiency. | ||
| Falling green leaves. | Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts. | ||
| Drying, curling and falling leaves. | Too little watering. | ||
| Dry brown leaf tips. | Low indoor humidity. | ||
| Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves. | Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or watering with hard, unsettled water. | ||
| Losing color saturation leaves and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them. | Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus rays no worse than lenses. | ||
| Yellowish-white spots on leaves, dry edges. | Low room temperature or its sudden changes. | ||
| Discolored "watery" border on the edge of the sheet. | Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent top dressing). | ||
| Reddening leaves. | Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat. | ||
| Small white crystals on the underside of the sheet. | A natural phenomenon provoked by a single abundant watering in combination with high humidity. | ||
| Slow growth or its complete absence. | Unsuitable soil, lack of fertilizing for a long time or too cramped pot. | ||
| Flour-like coating on leaves. | |||
| Brownish soft to the touch trunk. | |||
| Brownish spots, gradually tightened with a gray "pile". | |||
| Dark "watery" spots, softening tissues. | |||
| Yellowing leaves covered with dark brown spots. | |||
| Reddish-yellow, gradually turning brown spots on the leaves. | |||
| Brown spots with a bright green border on the leaves. | |||
| Small beige spots with a white dot in the center. | |||
| Elongated beige spots with a pale red border. | |||
| Blurry brown spots with a yellow-green border. | |||
| Dark "watery" tips of the leaves, "sores" on the trunk. | |||
| Brownish spots and stripes, casting bronze. | |||
| Yellow spots on the leaves, petioles braided with cobwebs. | |||
| Silvery "scratches" and small black dots on the leaves. | |||
| Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them. | |||
| Small lumps of a whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground. | |||
| Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of the leaves and sticky drops on them. | |||
What mistakes in care lead to: examples in the photo
Dracaena, in which the tips of the leaves dry, suffer from too low air humidity or sunburn. Dracaena can drop leaves for several reasons, including natural ones. This is how dracaena most often looks before shedding leaves. leave the plant in direct sunlight. Browning, drying dracaena leaves mean prolonged neglect of the plant's need for moisture. Yellowing of dracaena leaves reacts to overflow
Diseases and how to deal with them
Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, all types of rot are most dangerous, which develop very quickly with improper watering. If at the same time the temperature in the room is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.
Table: diseases typical for dracaena
| Disease | Symptoms | Treatment and prevention |
| Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die off. |
For prevention, treat the flower and soil once a month with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol, Topsin-M. |
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| Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are covered with a layer of greenish-gray plaque. | ||
| Phyllosticosis (brown spot) | Blurry patches of irregular shape of beige-brown color with a lime border. Then small black “grains” form in the middle. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena. |
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| Dark brown “watery” leaf tips, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the stem and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected ones by a wide yellow "oily" stripe. | There are no effective treatments. Provokes the development of bacteriosis constant dampness in a pot, heat in the room, alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena. | |
| Spotted wilt (bronze) | The leaves are almost completely covered with irregularly shaped stripes and spots. In artificial light they are brownish, in the sun they cast bronze. The growth of dracaena almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed. | With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the virus. Plants that do not feed are more likely to suffer from spotted wilt. For dracaena, a deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful. |
| Yellowness spreading along the leaves from the bottom up. There is a "watery" border along the edge. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself becomes thinner, changes color to brick. In especially severe cases, the dracaena is covered with "weeping" brown spots. |
For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to the water for irrigation. Add Humistar, Trikhovit to the soil when transplanting. |
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| Root (black) rot | Brown roots and bases of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive smell coming from it. |
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| Bacterial (wet) rot | Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. The tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state. | |
| Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually covered with a layer of grayish "pile" with multiple small black blotches. |
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| Brown rot (rhizoctoniosis) | Dracaena stops growing. The leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots. |
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| Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves. |
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| Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque thickens and turns brown. |
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Photo gallery: what a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like
It seems that powdery mildew is a harmless coating that is easy to wipe off, but this is by no means the case Brown spotting is a rather rare disease Dracaena affected by brown rot practically stops growing Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure Tissues affected by bacterial rot turn into a semi-liquid mass Root rot is very difficult to recognize in time, and the disease can only be treated in the early stages of development Plants in the garden often suffer from fusarium, but indoor plants are not protected from infection The plant affected by spotted wilt can only be thrown away It is not yet possible to cure bacteriosis Phyllostictosis most often affects adult and old dracaena Greenish-gray plaque that appears as heterosporosis develops, contains spores of the fungus Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die off, holes remain on the leaves
Video: treatment of dracaena diseases
Pests attacking dracaena
Most pests, even having bred in abundance, will not kill the dracaena. But that doesn't mean they shouldn't be fought. The plant did not "bring" any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You will have to deal with the most common insects and mites that feed on its juice.
Table: common pests
| Pest | Symptoms | Control and prevention measures |
| Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the wrong side of the sheet. Gradually they "swell", the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black. |
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| Thin almost transparent threads braiding petioles. On the underside of the leaf there are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them. |
For prevention, spray the plant weekly with a decoction of cyclamen tubers. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides. |
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| Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” are visible on the inside. |
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| Lumps of a dirty cotton-like coating in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry. |
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| Large colonies of small insects sticking to the underside of the leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears. |
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Photo gallery: what pests that affect dracaena look like
Aphids are distinguished by their rare “omnivorousness”, dracaena is also included in its circle of interests If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, very soon the plant will be covered with a continuous carpet of moving “fluff” Small black dots on the leaves are nothing but the thrips themselves Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not insecticides of general action are used, but special preparations - acaricides Durable scale insect shell - reliable protection against most folk remedies
Video: common indoor plant pests and their control
Plant resuscitation
Most often, the fact that dracaena requires urgent resuscitation is to blame for its owner. Most painfully, she reacts to improper watering - “drought” or “swamp” in a pot.
In the first case, cut off all dry leaves to living tissues, without touching the growing point at the top of the dracaena. Spray every 2-3 days with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the southwest or southeast window as possible. Water according to instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has also dried up, you will have to cut it off as well, and hope that the lateral buds will “wake up”. But there's not much chance of that.
In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Dracaena needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success, it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize the new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Choose a container according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2–3 cm).
What to do with a broken dracaena palm
Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aerial part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, often the “fractures” she received are the result of the violent activity of children and pets. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant, you will get two.
A broken dracaena is not a reason to arrange a tragedy
The easiest way is when the barrel is broken, but not completely broken. They put “tires” on it, as if on an arm or leg, and fix the skin so that it covers the “wound” as much as possible. Top can be wrapped with strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.
Don't forget to seal your cut.
Otherwise, in the remaining part of the plant in the pot:
- Saw off the trunk straight just below the damage. It is advisable to do this along the "scars" left over from fallen leaves.
- Disinfect the cut with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
- Fill with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden pitch. If nothing is available, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
- Remove the plant in partial shade. Water moderately. When growth buds form, return to normal care.
Material on the methods of propagation of dracaena will also be useful:
The lateral buds on the dracaena “wake up” for quite some time, be patient
Broken top:
- Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “fraying” and notching. Let dry for 2-3 hours.
- Trim off disturbing leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. You can use succinic acid and activated charcoal (one tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The cut will need to be sprinkled with any powdered root stimulator.
- Change the water every 3-4 days, moisten the substrate regularly. Provide bottom heating, at least 12 hours of daylight and a temperature of approximately 25ºС.
- Be patient. The rooting process can take 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaena.
Most often, the broken top of the dracaena is rooted in water.
Video: rooting dracaena cuttings
Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from the attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly cared for rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual care errors, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can provoke a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what causes certain symptoms and know what to do to cope with the problem.
A beginner florist does not have enough experience and flair for growing indoor plants; he acquires it most often by trial and error. However, it is possible to avoid trouble by using some basic rules when choosing a plant and getting to know it for the first time.
- When buying a dracaena or other plant, find out its full Latin name. When purchasing a new unknown plant, many are not interested in its agricultural technology, features, do not know the correct botanical name. Knowing the correct botanical name, one can determine the specific features of a particular species.
- Excessive shading or bright light can harm your dracaena. First of all, you should choose the right place for the plant. To do this, find out how the plant relates to sunlight. In addition, which is very important, a plant that tolerates sunlight well must be accustomed to it gradually. This is due to the peculiarities of keeping the plant before purchase - in stores they rarely observe the light regime necessary for a particular species.
- For most species of dracaena plants, drafts are detrimental. When choosing a plant, consider this fact.
- Overflow or excessive dryness can be extremely harmful to the plant. Irrigation is of great importance. You should always know what the needs of the plant you have bought are. In addition, watering should be carried out carefully, negligence leads to unpleasant consequences. For a number of species, a necessary condition for a healthy existence in an apartment is constant daily spraying.
- Be careful when feeding the plant. It is very important to understand how much the application of nutrients is necessary for the plant. Mistakes in feeding can lead to plant disease or death.
- Consider the individual needs of the plant for the soil mixture. When transplanting, the main mistake is the wrong soil mixture. Sometimes a transplant is started unnecessarily, at the wrong time. Often too large dishes are taken, which leads to acidification of the soil. Most plants need good drainage, which some do not pay attention to. Plants brought from Holland often do not undergo proper control by the relevant authorities, as a result of which they can carry various dangerous pests on themselves or in the substrate. Therefore, it is advisable to transplant the purchased plant with the replacement of the substrate and a careful examination of the roots.
- Need to cut? Cut it off! Lovers - flower growers often feel sorry for their plant, they are afraid to cut it. Pruning is necessary for a number of crops; if it is not carried out, the plant grows, stops growing and blooming.
Symptoms of maintenance errors and possible causes.
Upper leaves retain firmness but turn yellow: Caused, as a rule, by a high calcium content in the soil - in those plants that cannot tolerate lime, or by hard water for irrigation.
Leaves lose their luster and look lifeless: The likely cause is too much light; another cause may be the red spider mite. Even healthy green leaves can look faded if left unwashed.
Leaf discoloration (chlorosis): Leaves become discolored and become yellowish in color, the veins remain green. This usually happens with a lack of iron and magnesium. Both elements are needed to maintain the green color of the sheet. Watering with water containing a lot of calcium also leads to such a deficiency: calcium binds iron in the soil. You can fix this by starting to use iron chelates or brown algae extract and irrigate with softened water.
Leaves discolor until they become transparent: This is due to a lack of nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary, in particular, for the formation of green leaves. To restore the green color of the leaves, top dressing with a liquid fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is necessary. A longer-term support may be horn meal, which must be carefully mixed into the top layer of the earth.
Drooping Leaves: Common causes are either drying out of the soil (due to insufficient watering) or waterlogging of the soil (due to poor drainage or too much watering). Other reasons may be too much light (especially if the leaves are drooping regularly in the middle of the day), dry air, too high an air temperature, a cramped pot, or pests.
Leaves curl and fall: The edges of the leaves curl and sometimes become dry. Rolling leaves in plants is a measure of self-defense, because due to this, the surface of the leaf is reduced and less water evaporates from it. This happens when the plant is in a too warm place or receives little water. You need to water the plant until the soil is completely saturated, or dip in water and hold. Choose a cooler place for him.
Leaves drop suddenly: Rapid leaf drop without a preceding long period of wilting or discoloration is usually indicative of a plant shock. It can be caused by a significant temperature difference (both cold and cold), a sharp increase in daylight intensity, or a strong cold draft. Sudden dropping of leaves, especially in tree-like plants, can also be caused by the drying of the soil at the roots.
Leaves turn yellow and fall off: The lower leaves of an adult plant naturally turn yellow over time and then fall off. When this happens to several leaves at the same time, the likely cause is waterlogging of the soil, lack of nitrogen, too dark a place or cold drafts. First of all, you need to drastically reduce watering or completely replace the land and water less often. Feed regularly with appropriate fertilizers. Move the plant to a brighter place.
The lower leaves dry up and fall off: Three possible causes are lack of light, too high air temperature and insufficient watering. The plant should be rearranged to a brighter place. Soak the earthen ball completely with water by immersing the pot in water for several hours. Move from a warm place to cooler conditions.
Leaves fall on new plants: It is natural for plants that have been transplanted, just bought, or moved from one room to another to lose one or two bottom leaves. The shock of a change of scenery can be alleviated by transplanting the plant into only a slightly larger pot than the previous one, covering it when moving it home from the store, and transferring it from a poorly lit place to bright light with a few days in partial shade in between.
Dots or Spots on Leaves: If the dots or spots are dry and brown, the most likely cause is lack of water. If the affected areas are soft, dark brown in color, this is most likely due to waterlogging of the soil. If the dots or spots are white or yellowish, the infection is caused by cold water application, sudden temperature drops, water on the leaves, aerosol infestation, or disease/pest. If the spots are reddish, silvery-white or brownish, the plant has unexpectedly been exposed to direct sunlight. If the affected areas are wet and look like a blister, or dry in the form of dents, the cause is a disease. Some pests can also cause leaf spotting.
Brown tips or leaf margins: The most likely cause is drying of the leaf tips to dry air. Another possible cause is physical damage when the tips of the leaves are often touched or pressed against glass or a wall. If the edges of the leaves are yellow or brown, this can be caused by several reasons: waterlogging of the soil, insufficient watering, lack of light, too much light, too low air temperature, an excess of minerals, dry air or drafts. Other symptoms will help determine the true cause.
Small pale leaves and elongated stems: This happens in winter and early spring after the plant has been kept in low light conditions with too high temperatures and excessive watering. If possible, the ugly part of the plant is removed. If such symptoms appear during the growth period, then the reasons may be a lack of minerals or too poor lighting.
Leaves and stems rot: This is caused by a disease that occurs under poor conditions. Often the cause of the disease is waterlogging of the soil in winter or the ingress of water on the leaves, especially if it remains overnight.
Torn edges and holes in leaves: Most often caused by physical damage from pets or people (sometimes even a simple touch on an unopened leaf can damage it) or when attacked by pests.
Variegated leaves turn solid green: This is simply due to the lack of light. Remove all offshoots with the same color leaves (if possible) and move the plant pot closer to the window.
Plant grows slowly or not at all: During the winter this is normal for all plants, so don't force it to grow. In summer, the most likely cause of growth retardation is a lack of minerals, waterlogging of the soil, or insufficient lighting. If these reasons are excluded, then, perhaps, the pot is cramped for the plant.
The plant does not bloom: Several reasons can lead to the fact that an adult plant does not bloom at the right time. The most likely causes are related to lighting - this is a lack of light or an unsuitable length of daylight hours for the plant. Other reasons may be an overabundance of minerals, dry air, thrips or transplanting (some plants bloom only in a cramped pot).
Dropping buds: The causes of dropping leaves can also cause dropping of buds or flowers. This is most often caused by dry air, insufficient watering, lack of light, moving the pot with the plant to another place and pest damage.
Flowers fade quickly: As a rule, this is a consequence of insufficient watering, dry air, lack of light or too high air temperature.
Green coating on a ceramic pot: A sure sign of problems associated with watering - occurs when the soil is waterlogged or poor drainage.
White crust on a ceramic pot: There are two probable reasons - the use of too hard water for irrigation or an excess of minerals.
Dracaena is one of the most popular home flowers, used not only as a houseplant, but also as an office plant. To ensure a long life for a flower, you need to know the general rules for caring for it; it is especially important to recognize diseases in time. A serious and obvious symptom of ill health is leaf fall. Find out why this is happening and how to fix the problem.
Why dracaena sheds leaves: the main reasons
Homeland room dracaena are tropical forests. Outwardly, the flower resembles a palm tree: it has a straight stem, which ends in a rosette of long leaves growing 20–60 cm in length.
Dracaena is a flower that tends to shed its leaves, but this is not a natural process. With a large loss of leaves, the plant dies, so this problem should cause the gardener to immediately intervene.
Did you know? « Dracaena» translated from ancient Greekhow« female dragon". The shrub is also called« dragon tree» . The name comes from a legend that says that a long time ago two giants - a dragon and an elephant - came together in battle. The dragon was crushed by an elephant, and in the place where the drops of his blood fell, huge trees with a lush crown grew.
In addition, decorative qualities are highly valued in dracaena, and the loss of foliage will deprive the flower of its main advantage in maintenance. 
The main causes of leaf fall are:
It should be borne in mind that the dracaena itself takes off the leaves, if it is no longer a young plant. The maximum life span of dracaena is 15 years; when approaching this age, leaf fall is a natural process.
Violation of the terms
If the plant's leaves withered and fell off in a short time, and the trunk began to rot and dry, it is necessary to change the conditions for keeping the flower.
Good growth will provide the following care parameters:
- Temperature. The plant loves the temperature + 20–25 ° C in the summer. And in the cold season, the minimum allowable temperature is + 16 ° С. If you keep a flower at a lower temperature, it will stop growing and fall into suspended animation.
- Lighting. Dracaena loves the sun, as the plant was brought from the sunny tropics, but direct rays are harmful to it. It is best to place the pot in partial shade. Variegated dracaena are the most sensitive to light.
- Location in the house. Since direct rays are not desirable for the plant, it is best to place it on the east or west side of the house. Most often placed on the windowsills.
- pruning. A necessary process for the growth of the lateral buds of a tree. The flower must be at least 30 cm in height - only then can it be cut. Leaves can be removed in spring or summer.
- Moisturizing. A tropical plant requires an abundance of moisture, especially in winter, during the heating season. To do this, it is necessary to spray the air near the flower pot.
Improper maintenance of the shrub in room conditions leads to the fact that it loses the natural beauty and color of the leaves, the shape of the bush, the health of the trunk and root system. Therefore, before buying such a plant, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules for its cultivation in advance. 
Too little or too much fertilizer
Complex fertilizers are used as top dressing for dracaena. They must be given to the flower twice a month, during the period of active growth, approximately from March to early September.
In gardening stores you can buy special fertilizers for dracaena: "Rainbow", "Ideal", "Dracaena".
The lack of trace elements, especially potassium, leads to the fact that the flower is covered with bronze spots and stripes. And from an overabundance of top dressing, the roots and stem of the dracaena can rot.
Important!An abundance of top dressings containing fluorine can lead to loss of leaf color and their fall.
Wrong watering
Watering is the main way to feed the shrub with water. In order to prevent the death of the dracaena, you need to remember that she loves abundant watering, but you should not flood it too much, otherwise the root system will become waterlogged and begin to rot, and with it the stem.
In summer, the dracaena is watered once every two or three days, while checking whether the earth has dried up at the base of the stem. Water is used at room temperature. Additionally, they sprinkle water from a spray bottle near the plant, thus moistening the air next to it. Wilting leaves are a signal that you need to water more often.
In winter, the flower rests, and it needs watering every 3-4 days. However, if your plant is on a windowsill under a radiator, it will need to be watered more frequently. It is necessary to focus on the soil: if it has already dried up and you do not see wet spots, then you can water the pot again. 
Root damage during transplantation
Since the root system of the dracaena grows quickly, very soon the gardener will be faced with the need to transplant it into a new pot. For a flower about 40 centimeters high, you need a container with a diameter of 15 centimeters.
The roots of the shrub are quite strong, but nevertheless it is important not to damage them when dividing the stems, otherwise the plant will not develop further.
Important!Transplantation should not be done more often than once every 2-3 years.
It is better to carry out the procedure in late March - early April. Do not forget to keep the drainage layer in the pot when transplanting so that the bush does not have an excess of moisture.
Pests and diseases
Diseases and pests can nullify any gardener's efforts. To prevent this from happening, you need to be able to identify their symptoms in time.
Did you know? According to an ancient Aztec legend, a cut trunk of a dracaena on a full moon will bring happiness and love.
How to save a plant
If you notice signs of disease in your dracaena or a sharp fall of leaves, you need to make a decision on how to reanimate the shrub.
In order not to treat diseases of the bush, it is necessary to take preventive measures in time to prevent diseases.
Important!Note that the flower sheds a small amount of yellowed leaves from the bottom of the stem every year to prepare for winter. This is a natural process.
- When planting in a pot, make a drainage system. In this way, you will provide the roots with protection from excess water.
- The flower does not tolerate drafts well, and dies at low temperatures.. Therefore, in the cold season, make sure that the plant does not freeze.
- Dracaena is a moisture-loving bush, and requires high humidity of air and soil. Do not skip watering the plant even in the winter season.
- Also, do not add too much fertilizer to the soil so that the leaves do not fall off.. In this case, it is better to add less minerals so as not to weigh down the soil.
Dracaena is an exotic plant that will remind you of the sea, palm trees and relaxation at any time of the year. Growing it is not difficult, you just need to follow the basic rules of maintenance. And even if the plant is struck by the disease, it is important to help him in time by eliminating the cause of the leaves falling off.
Dracaena is, although not a very whimsical indoor plant, nevertheless, it requires compliance with individual care rules: the appropriate temperature regime, humidity level, and so on. A critical violation of these rules can provoke various ailments of the plant, which are reflected not only in the external appearance and which can lead to the death of the dracaena. One of the common problems, the causes and solutions of which will be discussed below, is the drooping of the leaves of the plant, which usually grow upwards.
The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall
The most likely include:
- Excessively cold temperature in the room (especially aggravated by drafts). The optimum temperature for plant growth and development is between 18 and 24°C above zero. Lower temperatures can cause the leaves to droop. In order to avoid this or to cope with the problem that has already appeared, it is required to remove the plant from the place where it can be blown by drafts, and also to create the optimal above-mentioned temperature regime in the room.
- Excessive soil moisture. It can be provoked by frequent watering or an overly wide pot that contributes to moisture stagnation. To do this, two basic rules must be observed. The first is to avoid frequent watering and allow the soil to dry out between waterings, the second is to choose a pot deep enough, but at the same time of small diameter (for a plant growing up to 15 centimeters, the optimal pot diameter is from 10 to 15 centimeters; pot height is 12-15 centimeters) .
- Lack of moisture for the outer surface of the leaves. Dracaena receives some of its nutrition and moisture through the surface of the leaves. In this regard, once every two to three days, it is required to spray the leaves from a spray bottle with water at room temperature.
- Lack of oxygen saturation. First of all, it is important to maintain the saturation of the soil with oxygen. For this, drainage is created when planting / transplanting dracaena. And also it is necessary to carry out periodic loosening of the soil.
- Excessive use of fertilizers. For the growth and development of dracaena, it is advisable to use organic fertilizers in small quantities - peat, manure, humus, and so on. Mineral fertilizers can be completely abandoned and used only if there are symptoms of a particular dracaena disease due to a lack of certain nutrients.
- Exposure to direct sunlight can also cause dracaena leaves to turn yellow and droop. The plant loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, which can contribute to the degradation and death of the plant. Dracaena should be in a lighted room, but not on the sunny side of the room.
With its tropical appearance, dracaena adorns home interiors and is widely used in office space design. The plant is considered unpretentious and disease resistant. But if problems are noticed when growing this "palm", you need to respond urgently. To begin with, it is necessary to accurately diagnose the disease, and then immediately begin to treat the disease.
Optimal home conditions for growing dracaena
Dracaena is a beautiful tropical plant native to Africa, Asia and South America. Outwardly, the plant looks like a palm tree, but in fact it is not, but belongs to the asparagus family.
In nature, you can find multi-meter specimens with lignified trunks, long wide leaves of green color or with stripes of different shades.
In total, there are about 150 plant species. The most popular are Dragon, Fragrant, Massangeana, Marginata (bordered), Deremskaya, Bent, Sandera (lucky bamboo), etc.
Varieties of dracaena - photo gallery
Dracaena Dracaena has a variegated color of leaves Dracaena Dragon has leaves as sharp as the teeth of a legendary animal At Dracaena Bent, the tips of the leaves are bent upwards 
Dracaena Marginata more than other species resembles a palm tree
Knowing the characteristics of growing conditions, it is easy to avoid dracaena disease:
Dracaena diseases can be fungal, bacterial or viral.
We diagnose infectious diseases - table
| Symptom | Leaving error | Disease |
| Round spots of brown shades appear on the stem and leaves, later fungal spores form in their place and the site of the lesion turns black. | Fungus spores have entered the soil, excess moisture | Alternariosis |
| The tips of the leaves dry out, spots with black dots appear inside. | Over watering, cold room, heavy soil | Phyllosticosis |
| Oblong spots of beige, yellow color with red or brown edging, green bloom is possible, the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry. | Wrong watering regimen, infection in the soil | Heterosporosis |
| Spots of various shapes, brown stripes, deformation of young shoots. | Weakening of immunity due to improper conditions of detention | Spotted wilt |
| Yellow streaks on leaves and wet brown plaque (rot) on tips, cankers on petioles and stems. | Heavy soil, waterlogging of the soil, high alkali content in the substrate | bacteriosis |
Dracaena are most susceptible to fungal diseases. The most common of these are alternariosis and phyllosticosis. As a rule, the disease occurs with high humidity and excess moisture in the soil. Also, the cause of the disease are fungal spores, which could be in the soil or were introduced from outside. For example, unsterilized garden tools that have previously been in contact with an infected plant can become a carrier of an infectious disease.
If the dracaena is transplanted into heavy garden soil, it is often and abundantly watered with running unsettled water, with a high degree of probability this will lead to a bacterial disease. Of all the types of dracaena, dracaena Deremskaya is most susceptible to bacteriosis.. This beauty is especially popular with amateur gardeners for its variegated leaves and the difference in their colors. However, these leaves are also often chosen by bacteria and fungus.
Professional gardeners note that dracaena is quite resistant to viral diseases. But still, the flower rarely affects spotted wilt. This virus can infect a plant that has already weakened immunity. For example, immunity is reduced if the flower suffers from improper care for a long time or is damaged by pests. With a viral infection, dracaena stops growing and begins to wither.
Dracaena diseases - photo gallery
With phyllosticosis, the tips of the leaves dry out. With Alternaria, the leaves may become covered with brown spots. Spotted wilt leads to the fact that the plant can rot.
Insects on dracaena - table
| Symptoms | Pest | Treatment |
| On the inside of the leaves are dark (red) spots entangled in cobwebs; when the tick multiplies, a white sticky coating and white larvae (similar to white sticks) appear on the leaves, trunk. | Wash the leaves with hot soapy water (50 ° C), treat with acaricide. Repeat procedure after 7 days | |
| The sheet is covered with a silvery film, black dots are formed inside the sheet, similar to scratches; a sticky coating appears, the sheet is bent and dries out. | thrips | Spray three times with insecticide (Decis) at intervals of 1-2 weeks |
| Drooping dry foliage, the inside is covered with sticky mucus, beige and brown swollen spots inside the leaf plate. | Shchitovka | Wash the leaves with soapy water and spray with an insecticide (Fitoverm or Intavir) |
| White plaque, similar to the accumulation of cotton swabs or white sticks, is located in large groups on the leaves and in the axils, the leaves dry and deform, covered with sticky colorless drops. | Mealybug | Remove insects with soapy water, treat twice with insecticide with an interval of 2 weeks |
| The leaves turn yellow, curl, dry out, a sticky coating, there are many white dots on the underside of the leaf and stems (aphid larvae can also be yellow, green or black, depending on the species). | Aphid | Spray insecticide up to 3 times at 2 week intervals |
Pests of indoor plants - photo gallery
The sheet is covered with a silvery film with black dots inside. The mealybug looks like a cluster of cotton tufts.
Other causes of plant problems - care errors
With improper care, the dracaena loses its decorative appearance: the plant grows poorly, sheds leaves, the trunk becomes thin and bare, and bends. Therefore, first of all, check if your dracaena is not sick, but simply unkempt.
Dracaena is most often affected by fungal infections.
The main problems in care and their consequences:
In most cases, the flower is infected with microbes or attacked by insects precisely with a weakened immune system, which occurs due to improper care.
The onset of plant disease can be seen by the condition of the leaf. It should be borne in mind that the process of drying and dying off of the lower leaves of the dracaena is a natural sign of growth. These leaves should be trimmed, and the trunk will eventually become stiff in that place.
In other cases, the unhealthy color of the foliage signals care problems.
We solve problems
Dracaena health problems can be completely different. Let's try to figure out what needs to be done in each case. Let's start with the leaves.
If dark spots appear on the leaves, the plant may be suffering from excessive watering and stagnant water in the pan. It is necessary to check the condition of the roots of the plant.
If the roots of the plant are completely rotted, the dracaena trunk becomes soft. This phenomenon can occur as a result of frequent and abundant watering of the soil. The plant is unlikely to be cured. The recommended temperature for healthy plant growth is 16 to 25 °C.
A rotten dracaena trunk may be the result of frequent watering.
If the trunk is frozen and soft
Staying for a long time in drafts, on the street or in a room where the air temperature is below 18 degrees, the dracaena freezes.
If the top is frozen, you need to cut it off to a healthy trunk
At the same time, the trunk of the plant may still remain alive (dense and hard to the touch), and the leaves have gone limp and drooped. They cannot be saved. If the top of the dracaena has drooped, it is necessary to rejuvenate the trunk:
- Cut off the top of the head with a clean knife down to the beginning of the living (dense) tissue. Throw away the top, and sprinkle the place of the cut on the trunk with crushed coal.
- Place the pot with the plant in a sunny place in a warm room (temperature 22-25 ° C). Eliminate the possibility of drafts.
- Water the flower with complex fertilizer, diluted half as much as indicated in the instructions.
- Every week, spray the trunk and soil with a growth stimulator for plants.
- Follow the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and give lateral buds.
If the top is broken
What to do if the crown of the dracaena is broken, and a healthy long trunk remains:
If the trunk has become too long or crooked
There are cases when the dracaena grows rapidly: the trunk grows in height quickly, but in itself is thin and not strong enough. This can happen if the dracaena is completely satisfied with the conditions of its maintenance, but it stands in a poorly lit place. For example, the trunk quickly becomes thin and long in the Bordered and Deremskaya dracaena.
There is no need to rush to say goodbye to your favorite plant, because in such situations you can make several out of one. Dracaena can be rejuvenated pruning and divide the trunk into several parts:
How to treat dracaena from lesions - details
To combat fungal diseases, the flower must be carefully treated with a fungicide. It is also advisable to transplant the plant and replace the infected soil with sterilized soil.
The use of fungicides for fungal diseases
For treatment, it is recommended to use a solution of Fundazol in proportions of 10 grams per 500 ml of water. Spray the infected tree every 2 weeks, repeat the procedure three times. An alternative to Fundazol can be the treatment of a diseased plant with Topaz or another drug that contains copper. All procedures are carried out strictly according to the instructions and in a well-ventilated area.
Fundazol is used for any fungal infections of plants
To prevent fungal diseases of dracaena, waterlogging of the soil, cool and dark rooms, and contact with untreated garden tools should be avoided.
Viral infections and bacterial diseases of dracaena are currently considered incurable. Unfortunately, the diseased plant must be destroyed so as not to infect other indoor flowers.
Transplanting into sterile soil
With fungal diseases or with the development of root rot from waterlogging or freezing of an earthen coma, the roots of the plant begin to rot, fungus spores multiply in the soil. To get rid of them, dracaena needs to be transplanted into sterile soil.
Procedure:
- Pull the flower out of the pot, completely free the root system from the infected soil under running water.
- With a clean knife, cut off the rotten roots (they will be soft to the touch) to healthy parts and treat with Fitosporin solution (dilute the paste according to the instructions).
- Place the finished substrate for dracaena in a heated oven for 10 minutes; for sterilization, the temperature should be set to 200 degrees. Cool down.
- To restore and build up the root system, choose a smaller pot for the flower (3 cm in diameter and less than the previous height). Add a layer of expanded clay, sterilized soil and plant dracaena in the usual way.
How to apply insecticides
Dracaena leaves are attacked by scale insects, spider mites and other pests, especially if the flower is in a cool room with dry air.
Aktellik is one of the most popular insecticides Aktara has a hazard class 3 (moderately dangerous to humans) Fitoverm is considered the least dangerous pesticide
As a rule, treatment with folk remedies helps in the fight against spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, and scale insects and thrips are destroyed after treatment with insecticides.
Green soap helps in the care of dracaena
Resuscitation of a dying dracaena
If the dracaena has been left unattended for a long time and already has a dying appearance, it is still worth trying to save it.
If the lower part of the plant is rotten
With frequent and abundant watering, the roots of the dracaena rot, and later the trunk and top rot. This situation can be called hopeless, the plant can only be thrown away. In rare cases, the leaves and part of the trunk may not have time to suffer, then you need to try to save the crown and root it like an apical cutting:
- With a sterile sharp knife, cut off the apical shoot with a part of the trunk (healthy and strong). The top should have a healthy appearance: the leaves are dense, and the trunk is hard. Make a cut perpendicular to the trunk, sprinkle the cut with crushed coal.
- Leave the resulting stalk in the air for two hours so that the cut point dries out a little.
- Place the cutting in a transparent glass with settled water at room temperature and add a rooting stimulator, for example, Kornevin. Dilute half as much as indicated in the instructions.
- Place the glass with the handle on a sunny windowsill.
- As necessary (if it blooms), change the water in a glass, top up.
- When the roots appear more than 5 cm, plant the dracaena in a small pot, deepening the stalk with roots by 2 cm into the sterilized soil.
If the top of the head is dry
If the dracaena has not been watered for a long time, for example, during a long vacation, the plant can shed all the leaves from a lack of moisture, and the growing point itself can dry out.
Drying out of the growth point is irreversible and requires pruning of the dracaena
In this case, there is still a chance to save the plant. For this:
- First of all, the dracaena needs to arrange “bath procedures”. In order to wet the earthen lump well and evenly and revive the root system, the flower pot should be placed in a basin with settled warm water for half an hour (the water should be at room temperature).
- The dried top should be cut off with a sharp knife and discarded, treated with activated crushed charcoal and wait for the lateral (sleeping) kidneys to wake up.
Consider at what height to cut the trunk so that the plant is aesthetic in the future.
- Spray the flower once a week with a plant growth stimulator, for example, Epin.
- Watering is carried out moderately once a week, while applying complex fertilizers for dracaena twice a month.
- Place a pot with a plant 2 meters from a sunny window so that scattered rays of the sun fall on the plant.
- A month later, the dracaena should have new leaves from the lateral buds.
When caring for a plant and its rehabilitation, observe the following rules:
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