Do-it-yourself bath from foam blocks projects. We build a bathhouse with our own hands from foam blocks - the secrets of modern construction. Required tools and materials

Everyone is faced with a choice: what material to use? Of course, the tree is the leader. It attracts everyone primarily because wood is a natural material. There are alternative materials, for example, a foam block, which also has an environmentally friendly composition. But the advantages of foam blocks are not limited to this. If you want to build a bathhouse quickly and cheaply, then the foam block will be great option.

What is a foam block? Foam block bath: pros and cons

The foam block is one of the types of porous material; it is made of sand, cement and water. Thanks to the production technology, the blocks have a porous structure, which is why their weight remains small even with large dimensions.

Do-it-yourself foam block bath: material advantages

environmental friendliness. The foam block is a natural material made from natural materials;
profitability. A foam block bath will come out cheaper than from some other materials, for example, wood or brick;
hygiene. The material is not subject to corrosion, insects and rodents do not start in it;
fire resistance. The foam block is a non-combustible and fire-resistant material, for this indicator it is much better than wood;
good level of thermal insulation. In the foam block, this indicator is three times higher than that of. The steam room will be ready faster, and the heat will last longer, and the fuel consumption will be lower, which is also an additional saving;
light weight. The material is quite lightweight, which simplifies the process of building a bath from foam blocks, in addition, there is a small load on the foundation, so there is no need to make a solid and expensive foundation;
resistance to temperature extremes. Even under the influence of extremely high and low temperatures, the foam block remains a strong material;
big sizes. Thanks to this, it is possible to build a bathhouse from blocks much faster than from bricks;
ease of installation. If you are new to this field, then the foam block will be an excellent option: it is easier to build a bathhouse with your own hands from a foam block than, for example, from brick or wood;
the ability to easily cut blocks if necessary. The material is perfectly sawn and cut with a hacksaw, there is no need to buy unnecessary and expensive tools, the block does not crack or crumble when sawing;
no shrinkage. If, after the construction of a wooden bath, you need to wait until the frame shrinks, then in a foam concrete bath you can immediately finish and start using it.

Do-it-yourself foam block bath: material shortcomings

The main disadvantage of such a bath is that the material has a high porosity, which reduces its moisture resistance. During construction, it is important to make high-quality waterproofing.

Another disadvantage is the relatively low durability, so the blocks are not suitable for multi-storey buildings. But the bathhouse has one or two floors, so it doesn't matter.

Some are confused by the appearance of such a bath, since it does not look as aesthetically pleasing as, for example, made of wood. But this problem is easy to solve - just do exterior decoration, and then your building will acquire an attractive and well-groomed appearance.

Below are photos of a foam block bath:

Although foam concrete, like any building materials similar to it, has its drawbacks, such a material is a successful and profitable solution.

In order for the building to serve for a long time, it is important to pay close attention the issue of waterproofing and competently make the finish.

Do-it-yourself foam block bath: phased construction

The process of working with a foam block is similar to building from a brick, but takes much less time. Let's consider the stages of construction in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation of a foam block bath project

Before starting construction, it is important to draw up a drawing. You must clearly know in advance how many rooms in the building will be, what dimensions they will have, where they will pass electric wires, pipes and furniture stand.

There is no rush at this step, it is important to carefully think over each step and carefully calculate all the dimensions. Any inaccuracies and errors will surely surface during the construction process and lead to various problems: the need for rework is already ready-made elements buying additional material etc.

To erect it, you need to dig a pit about 0.6 m deep and about 0.3 m wide. Next, you need to make markings, insert pins in the corners, as well as around the entire perimeter of the future building. The distance between the pins should be about 1.9 m.

Then you need to make reinforcement so that the building is more reliable and durable. For the manufacture of a reinforcing cage, metal rods 12 mm thick are suitable.

After that, it is necessary to install the formwork. For its manufacture, boards with a width of 25 mm are suitable.

Before pouring concrete, you need to prepare the drainage system, lay the necessary pipes. The formwork should be filled with concrete grade M-200 or higher. The height of the foundation must be 0.7 m. The filling must be done in layers. After that, you need to process the concrete with a vibration device to remove air bubbles.

It will take about 3-5 weeks for the foundation to dry. During this period, it is advisable to periodically pour water over the foundation so that it does not crack. When the concrete is completely dry, the formwork can be removed.

For thermal insulation of the foundation, mineral mats are used. Don't forget to make ventilation holes.

The final stage will be waterproofing, the easiest option to do it is to lay two layers of roofing material.

Step 4. Construction of walls made of foam concrete

The construction of a foam block bath with your own hands is carried out quite quickly. Even one person can erect a building in just 2-3 weeks, and if a team is working, then everything happens even faster.

Please note that all blocks must be placed on edge! When laying, check each foam block horizontally and vertically.

Laying the first row is a particularly demanding undertaking. If the first row turns out to be uneven, then further work will be much more difficult. Blocks should be laid using ordinary cement-sand mortar.

Laying should start from the highest corner of the foundation. Try to make thin seams between blocks.

Step 5. Roof installation

For the construction of a foam block bath, different types of roof are suitable, the most popular is a gable roof with rafters.

The roof should be half a meter longer than the walls.

On walls of greater length, you need to lay a Mauerlat; a beam with a thickness of more than 18 cm is suitable for its manufacture. It is necessary to fix the Mauerlat with anchor bolts.

Next, on the ground, you need to make a rafter system using 15x50 cm beams. You need to start by determining the slope of the rafters, for this you need to take two boards and build "scissors" from them, securing them with nails. The slope of the roof can be different, for example, for regions with a damp and cold climate, it is better to make a slope of about 50-60 degrees.

You can fix the desired slope with a crossbar secured with self-tapping screws.

The resulting frame must be installed on the roof and secured with special brackets or cuttings.

Similarly, you need to make other rafters for the other side of the roof.

After that, between the frames, you need to pull the cord and install the remaining rafters in increments of 0.5 m.

The next step is the crate. Planks of 10x40 cm are suitable for it. They need to be strengthened with self-tapping screws, the distance between the boards should be such that it is convenient to lay insulation. If you plan to make a roof from roofing material, then you need to prepare two layers of roofing material. If the roof is made of tiles, then beams must be used for the lathing.

Next, you need to make a rough ceiling, boards with a thickness of 2.5 cm are suitable for covering. They need to be fixed between the rafters, put foam on top and mount the attic floor. Remember to leave two ventilation holes.

The last stage is the installation of the roofing material and the installation of the ridge.

Step 6. Interior and exterior finishing

To protect the blocks from moisture, they need to be impregnated with special agents of hydrophobic properties, and then covered with a protective film. For ventilation, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-7 cm between the wall and the cladding.

Not everyone wants to bet wooden baths: There are already a lot of troubles with them, both during construction and during operation. Although not "according to Feng Shui" use is not wood materials, but foam block baths behave much better in this regard. The main thing when building with your own hands is to choose the right project, and then do everything according to technology. And there won't be any problems.

Foam concrete blocks are called foam concrete or cellular lungs concrete. This material is far from a novelty, but with the development of technologies it is becoming more and more widespread: new materials make it possible to eliminate the disadvantages that are inherent in them (hygroscopicity). Foam blocks are three different materials created using similar technology:

Foam concrete of any type is good because it has a relatively low price. In addition, the building is being built quickly, since the blocks are large and at the same time weigh a little more than ten kilograms. One person can easily cope with carrying, laying. It is not surprising that more and more often baths are made of foam blocks: you can build them yourself. All you need is a project that you can change a little and implement yourself. Below there are ready-made drawings of baths of different sizes and formats.

Let's immediately make a reservation about what should be present in the layout of a good bath. Traditionally, all the drawings of the baths have a steam room, a sink and a relaxation room. The distribution of space in this case can be very different: a large steam room and a small sink, on the contrary, a spacious recreation room, small functional rooms. Choose what you like best and what seems more correct: everyone has a different idea of how everything should be organized. And do not be afraid to move the partitions in the way that is more convenient for you, then put the foundation under them and everything will be fine.

What is undoubtedly is that during the winter use of the bath, the entrance should not be directly to the recreation room, but through the vestibule. If it is in the bath project that you did not like, you can either fence it off - if space and configuration allow, or attach it outside.

Pay attention to the position of the doors. They should be located so as to take up as little space as possible, because the passages cannot be exploited in any way. The stove is selected according to the volume of the steam room, but it is taken with a margin, especially if it will be heated from another room. The heat will partly go to heating this room, which means that more power is needed.

Sauna project 5 by 5.5 from foam blocks

We have already written about the vestibule if you plan to take a steam bath in winter, or fence off a part of the rest room, or attach a vestibule outside. Putting a partition with such a layout will be problematic: you will have to move the doors to another corner. But this is not a bad option. In the photo below you will see the implementation of this project. The bathhouse was built from gas blocks, it is planned.

Bath project 6 by 6 from foam blocks

A well-thought-out layout of a compact and functional bath is shown in the photo below. The project is drawn taking into account the thickness of the walls and walls, there are "clean" dimensions of the premises. Not marked on the plan entrance doors and windows, the vestibule will be attached outside.

Gas block bath project

The premises turned out with the following areas:

steam room - 5.3 m 2;
sink - 7 m 2;
s / y - 1.8 m 2;
dressing room - 1.7 m 2;
rest room - 11.2 m 2;

The stove is fired from the rest room, in the steam room there are bunk beds for lying down, and there is a small shelf for sitting.

Layout of a bath from foam blocks 6 to 3 (several projects)

Layout options for a bath 6 to 3 from gas blocks

These are far from the only options for the layout of the 6 by 3 baths. As you can see, they differ in the size of the steam room and shower, as well as in their location relative to each other. In one version, a stove is also installed, which is heated from the steam room, in the other two - from the rest room.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam block baths

Foam concrete blocks are good because the buildings from them are very warm and light. A wall of aerated concrete 30 cm thick has thermal conductivity characteristics similar to a 1.7 m brick massif. This means that when building a house, it does not need additional insulation. When building baths (with a sufficient wall thickness), only a steam room requires insulation, and then from the inside.

But you need to take into account the following point: such characteristics are for walls folded on a thin layer (1 mm) of special glue. If you use a conventional cement-sand mortar (the thickness of the joints is then 10-12 mm), the indicators will be much worse. This is because the solution in this vapor conducts heat many times better, that is, it "flows out" through it.

It is also worth considering that only blocks of ideal geometry with deviations in size of no more than 1 mm can be put on the glue. You need to look for such. Otherwise, a 1 mm layer of adhesive is clearly not enough to correct these deviations. So they put aerated concrete on a thick layer of mortar, and not glue (glue is much more expensive, but because of the low consumption, the masonry turns out to be more economical), and then they are insulated.

Foam blocks are also good because they are easy to work with. With enough large sizes they are lightweight - 10-14 kg. So one person can handle the masonry easily. They are cut hand saw, only it is better to look for a canvas on foam concrete, and not on metal - it will be easier to work. If necessary, they can be channeled quickly and easily, even with a hand tool.

One tip: look for blocks that have a tenon and a groove. This will make it easier to achieve tightness of the joints, and there is an additional guarantee that the seams will not glow (with a lack of experience, this happens).

The relatively low density of aerated concrete is both an advantage and a disadvantage. The disadvantage is that it is problematic to nail something onto such walls. For fasteners, special dowels are used, in which the surface of the spacers is increased. Advantage: the design is lightweight, which allows you to make less massive foundations. Less massive foundations - less costs, because this cycle can account for up to 50% of the cost of the entire construction.

The second serious disadvantage of aerated concrete is its high hygroscopicity. Therefore, when building baths from aerated concrete with your own hands, you need to make a hydro and vapor barrier both from the inside and outside.

Among porous concrete, gas blocks absorb moisture more than others, therefore, from this point of view, they are not the best choice for the construction of baths. But it is for its manufacture that more expensive equipment is used - the features of the technology. As a result, the blocks have better geometry. And it is gas blocks that are more often put on glue, and not on a solution, since the geometry of the material allows it. So from the point of view of thermal conductivity, this material is preferable. And problems with hygroscopicity are solved by organizing a ventilated facade and / or.

Bath walls made of gas blocks

For middle lane Russia has enough block thickness of 25-30 cm, for regions located to the north, 35 cm or more may be needed. But the question is more about density. In this material, the lower the density, the warmer the wall: more air is contained in the pores, and less concrete, through which heat escapes. In the same time large quantity air and less concrete leads to the fact that the strength of such a wall is slightly lower. But it must be taken into account that the changes in thermal conductivity and changes in density are not very large, but they are.

For low-rise construction most often they use gas blocks D400 or D500. The recommended thickness of external walls in residential premises is 300 mm, the same material is used for partitions, but their thickness is 150-200 mm.

Another feature of the construction of walls of a bath from foam blocks is the need for reinforcement in every third or fourth row. This measure makes the structure more durable and monolithic.

For reinforcement, two ribbed rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. For them, grooves are cut out in the laid blocks. This can be done with a grinder, jigsaw or manual wall chaser for aerated concrete.

This is a manual wall chaser - one of the tools for working with foam blocks

The distance from the edge of the block to the groove is at least 5 cm, the depth is at least 12 mm so that the rod does not protrude above the surface. The strobe is partially filled with a solution, reinforcement is laid, a layer of glue is applied on top and the next block is placed.

Warming

If a positive temperature is constantly maintained in the bath, then insulation outside is desirable: there are less costs for maintaining the same "+". If the bath is heated only periodically, then there is no sense in external insulation. In summer it is already warm, but in winter in an unheated room there will still be a minus.

In an unheated bath, you need to do a good internal thermal insulation... Then it will be possible to heat the room without touching the walls. The layers of insulation are discussed in more detail below, since without a vapor barrier they do not work as they should.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier walls

The problem of hygroscopicity of gas blocks during the construction of baths is solved today quite simply: there are impregnations based on cement with polymer additives, which significantly reduce the amount of moisture absorbed by the material (like "). They can be used to coat the finished building from the inside and outside (in two layers). This will protect against water in its liquid state. But it is better to make a ventilated facade outside: it is more reliable in the sense that it protects from precipitation, and makes it possible to ventilate the wall, drying out the steam present in it.

But in the most problematic rooms - the steam room and the washing room - additional protection from steam will be needed. Vapor barrier from the inside will be made using a special film. Moreover, for the steam room, they often take foil on a cardboard or paper base (Izospan FB), for a washing room, you can do with a conventional vapor barrier.

Steam room wall insulation

You can do it differently: without impregnation. It costs a lot, and the consumption is decent - at least 7 liters per square meter... To reduce consumption, you can first putty the wall (breathable putty), and then process it. But in this situation, labor intensity increases.

If you make good ventilation, there will be no problems without impregnation. For example, a cake of insulation and waterproofing in a steam room made of aerated concrete can be made like this (from the wall, inward):

If you provide normal ventilation of the facade from the outside, and not close the pores tightly, such insulation should work normally, and it will be good to dry out. It is only important to make the vapor barrier from the inside (from the steam room) reliable. To do this, the film canvases are laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and at the joints (two strips are obtained) they are glued with double-sided tape.

There is a second approach to wall insulation. It is based on keeping moisture out of outside wall... In this case, it is recommended to arrange a frame inside that will completely cut off the walls from moist air.

To do this, a vapor barrier is stuffed onto the walls, a crate is placed on it, then a rough wall, another crate, between the bars of which a heater is laid out. It is closed with another layer of vapor barrier film, on top of which the crate and trim (lining) are already stuffed. This frame "eats" about 20 cm around the perimeter. A luxury that not everyone can afford.

In both cases, for effective ventilation of the insulation, closed on all sides with films, it is necessary to make two ventilation holes in each wall, closed by doors. The holes are not through. They do not go into the steam room (washing room), but end in a layer of insulation. In order not to bring down the temperature, the doors are closed during the vaping. They are opened to dry after the procedures, because the steam will still get inside, albeit in smaller quantities.

With any decision, the bottom of the wall is 10-15 centimeters thick. ceramic tiles- it protects well against splashes, covering the wettest part. Above, already (but with an overlap in height on the tile) is the cladding.

For waterproofing in the steam room, there is another option - to glue the foam glass plates. This material is quite expensive, but the waterproofing from it is excellent, and there is no discharge. there are: European, Belarusian, Chinese. The most expensive and high quality is European, the cheapest and lowest quality is Chinese. They "put" it on a special glue, there is no hassle with gluing: everything is easy and simple. To achieve the required waterproofing level, a layer of 50 mm is sufficient.

Wall insulation of the washroom

It doesn't really make sense to fence such a cake in the sink: if the walls are finished with tiles laid on special glue, the problem is solved easier. True, treatment is still necessary under it: first, a layer of plaster is applied in order to close the pores of aerated concrete, and then a layer of thin-layer hydrophobic waterproofing (these are cement-based compositions).

It is only important to smear the walls well liquid waterproofing, observing all the recommendations of the manufacturer. This coating works simply: it penetrates the pores of the concrete. The polymers contained in it begin to crystallize, the growing crystals impede the passage of water. The amount of absorbed water becomes significantly less.

Walls outside can be treated with the same composition. But such impregnation costs a lot, and the consumption is high. Moreover, the facade still needs finishing in this case: the surface is not very attractive.

Interior wall decoration

With aerated concrete baths, many questions arise. Including the decoration of the premises. We decided with a steam room - a lining is definitely required there. In the sink, it is more advisable to lay tiles on the walls.

Mainly the rest room remains, sometimes the vestibule. Many would like to have wooden walls... Since the humidity will still be elevated, you can fix a vapor barrier film on the walls. A crate will already go from above, and a finishing board to it.

If the bath is well thought out, then you can do without a vapor barrier: aerated concrete both absorbs vapors and gives them away. The main thing is to provide him with such an opportunity: to organize the movement of air along the walls. This is done using the lathing, which provides a 2-3 cm gap between the finishing material and the wall. Only the lathing is packed vertically - the air circulates from bottom to top without problems. So the lining is packed horizontally.

Roof

Quite a lot of questions arise during the construction of a do-it-yourself aerated concrete bath related to the roofing. After all, it will not be possible to reliably fix a complex structure to such blocks.

Therefore, a reinforced belt is arranged over the upper row of blocks: a frame is knitted from four bars of reinforcement, which is poured concrete mortar... For longitudinal reinforcement, a ribbed bar of 8-14 mm in diameter is laid, transverse posts are made from a smooth bar of 6-8 mm. The pitch of the cross posts is 100-150 mm. The height of the armopoyas is 200-300 mm, depending on the type of roofing material used, snow and wind loads in the region.

You can make an armopoyas in several ways:

Along the perimeter of the wall (width not less than 200-300 mm) install removable formwork from boards, fiberboard, OSB, etc. The lower part of the boards is fastened to the blocks with self-tapping screws, then the reinforcement is laid and then at the top of the edges they are pulled together with transverse bars (so that the mortar does not break the formwork). A solution is poured into this structure. Just pay attention, the reinforcement on all sides must be filled with concrete with a layer of at least 5 cm of thickness.
There are U-shaped blocks. The topmost row is laid out of them. Then a layer of insulation is laid along the inner edge (which is not afraid of moisture), then the associated reinforcement is installed. All are poured with concrete mortar. In this case, the blocks play the role of a permanent formwork.
Much the same construction can be done using thin wall blocks. Along the edges of the wall, blocks with a thickness of 50-60 mm are installed on glue. The block directed inside the room is laid with a layer of thermal insulation, reinforcement is laid, concrete is poured.

Concrete for armopoyas is used no lower than M 200, pouring is done at a time. To ensure homogeneity and increase the strength of the solution, excess air must be given. If after pouring the foundation you still have, you can use it. If not, take the armature pin and bayonet the mortar well. If the weather is hot, the concrete is covered with foil. You can start work on the construction of the rafter system no earlier than 4 days later.

Who of you has not dreamed of a quiet, cozy place where you can sit, relax and even have a little fun in the company of friends or family ?! It is by building a bathhouse on your site that you can fulfill your cherished dream. But the modern world is harsh, and it is not always possible to use natural materials of the highest quality for construction. Therefore, many summer residents begin to think about what kind of material to choose. Many of them come to the conclusion that a do-it-yourself foam block bath is the best solution, since a foam block as a building material is reliable, durable, environmentally friendly and easy to install.

In this article, we will talk about the features, advantages and disadvantages of foam concrete. You can understand the essence of building a bath from blocks thanks to step by step instructions, as well as some tips and tricks.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam concrete

First, let's figure out what a foam block is. A foam block is a building material made of foam concrete, which includes: quartz sand, water, clay, cement and air-forming substances. It is due to this that air bubbles are formed in the cavity of the blocks.

This raw material is considered quite young and new in Russian market, but due to its advantages over brick, wood, cinder block and concrete, it has already won great love from architects and other professionals.

Like any other building material, foam blocks have their own advantages:

Low price. A bath made of foam blocks will be two, or even three times cheaper than one built according to the same project, but from wooden frame or brick.
Little weight. Due to the presence of pores, foam blocks, without any difficulties, can be installed at any height alone, without resorting to the help of special equipment or a construction team.
Foam concrete does not shrink. That is, you can start pouring work, installing door and window frames immediately after the completion of the last stage of construction.
High strength. This material can be used to build two- and even three-story buildings.
Good level sound and heat insulation.
Refractoriness. Unlike a wooden frame, foam blocks are not subject to ignition and combustion.
Environmental friendliness. When heated, this material does not release toxic, radioactive or other substances into the air that could adversely affect health and general state person.
Corrosion resistant. Foam concrete is not subject to rotting and corrosion from temperature, microorganisms, rodents and other animals.
Foam concrete can withstand frequent temperature changes without problems, which is especially good when building a bath.
Ease of processing. Foam blocks are easy to handle, saw and cut into pieces of the required shape and size.
Laying speed. Since the foam blocks are attached not to ordinary cement mortar, but to a special adhesive composition, there is no need to wait more than a month until the solution gains strength.

However, there are also disadvantages:

Low coefficient of moisture resistance. Perhaps the biggest and most unpleasant minus of foam blocks. Due to its porous structure, the raw material absorbs moisture well, due to which the service life of the building is significantly reduced. This problem can be solved by performing additional work for waterproofing walls.
Inhomogeneity of the structure. Since the pores vary in size and location, the material in different places may not hold the mounts well. Therefore, it is recommended to use special hardware designed for fixing porous materials.
Construction must be carried out especially in the warm season, since the used adhesive solution at low temperatures loses its properties.

Also note that for these purposes it is better to choose material High Quality from a trusted manufacturer, containing a water-repellent primer. The price will certainly be higher, but the quality and durability of the building is much more important.

Preparatory work

Design

Immediately before construction work, everything must be carefully planned: choose the place and type of foundation, select the material, draw up a drawing, and so on. Careful planning will help speed up construction at times, give the process coherence and order.

The place for the bath should ideally be flat and dry. If there are defects such as slopes or hills, they are removed. It is advisable to build a bath from foam blocks on the opposite side of the site, at a distance of at least 30 m from the reservoir and 5-6 m from other buildings.

The choice of foundation directly depends on the quality of the soil. The easiest way to build a bathhouse is on solid soil. To find out what kind of soil is on your territory, you need to take a sample of the land and conduct an analysis. This can be done in special laboratories. You can also look for information in the documentation for the purchase of a land plot or ask your neighbors what foundation their bath is on.

The main indicators are the composition of the soil, the depth of freezing, the level of occurrence of groundwater and the general climate in your region, as it affects the further operation of the foundation and the bath as a whole.

When choosing a bath project, there are no mandatory rules or templates. Of course, in order to save money, you can find a ready-made project and all detailed documentation on the Internet, but if you want to create something new, interesting and unique, it is better to seek help from special design agencies that will create an individual project, taking into account all the nuances: soil , locality, climate, personal wishes and financial capabilities of the client. They will help you determine the place and type of foundation, the type of roof, and also choose the material for the bath.

I would like to clarify that in most bath projects there are two or three main functional rooms, among them:

steam room;
dressing room;
washing.

Larger baths also provide for the presence of:

changing rooms;
rest rooms.

A whole pool is often built in a washing room, but for it, like for a heater-stove, it is important to provide a separate base.

For a small plot, the best option is to build a 4x4 m bathhouse.It consists of three main rooms: a steam room 2.10x1.85 m, a shower room 1.8x1.85 m and large room recreation 4x2.15 m, where you can cool down, sit and chat in cozy company.

Selection of quality foam blocks

In order for a foam block bath to serve for many decades, it is important to select really high-quality material. A few tips below will help you with this.

When choosing a material, consider the period after its manufacture. It must be at least 28 days. It is during this time that the solution completely solidifies, turning into a monolith.
Pay attention to the products of major manufacturers. It makes no sense for such companies to risk their reputation, so all their products are manufactured only according to modern standards. Also, with such raw materials, a quality certificate confirmed by laboratory tests must always be supplied.
Storage conditions for building materials. All foam blocks should be stored in stacks in a dry place out of the reach of the sun. The stacks should be in mandatory be covered with a layer of polyethylene or any other material that would protect the product from moisture. The packaging must be free of any defects.

In addition to the tips presented above, you can also determine whether the material is suitable for construction. outward appearance.

The structure of porous formations. All air cells must be isolated from each other, as the material will absorb when joining a large number of excess moisture. This is best seen when the block is split in two and viewed in section.
The size of all cells must be identical to each other. If the foam block contains a lot of air, then the strength of such a material decreases significantly.
Material color. Since this raw material contains quite a lot of cement, the color of the material should be gray and uniform. In the case when the foam blocks have a light white tint, this may indicate a violation of the cement concentration and non-compliance with GOST.
Form. All blocks must be of the same size with geometrically smooth edges. You can check this by placing two blocks on top of each other. If a gap has formed, then when laying the walls, large seams may appear, which will negatively affect the thermal performance of the bath.
Weight. The mass of each block must comply with GOST. Below is a table that will help you compare the weight and brand of foam blocks.

There is very good method checking the quality of the block: for this you need to try to break off a piece from the corner of the foam block or punch it through with your hand with an ordinary nail. If this was possible without much effort, then such material should in no case be used for the construction of a bath. But this method can only be used when choosing a material above the D600 brand.

List of required tools and materials

To build a bath from foam blocks with your own hands you will need:

bayonet;
concrete mixer;
containers for cement mortar;
watering can;
stairs;
hammer;
trowel;
hacksaw;
spatulas;
plane;
hardware for fasteners (nails, screws, metal corners and so on).
screw gun;
wall chaser;
roulette;
building level;
plumb line and some other tools;
wooden bars for the Mauerlat with a section of 15x5 cm;
the same bars for floor beams;
plywood or OSB sheets for roof lathing, as well as for foundation formwork;
metal rods with a diameter of 1–1.5 cm for reinforcing the foundation and Mauerlat;
hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier materials;
boards for lathing with a section of 10x5 cm and, if necessary, counter battens;
cement (you can buy ready-made or knead by hand);
finely sifted sand;
fine crushed stone or broken stone and some other materials.

Foundation

Having prepared the necessary tools and materials, you can proceed to earthworks and pouring the foundation. But first, to make life easier for yourself, we recommend cleaning the area and further marking up the project.

Most often, when building a bath from foam blocks, it is the strip foundation that is built, since it is easy to install, inexpensive, convenient, reliable, and since the design of such a bath is very light, a lightweight, shallow version of the base can be erected.

After marking the territory, they begin to dig a trench 30-60 cm deep, depending on the soil, climate, and so on, and about 30 cm wide.
A layer of sand and crushed stone, 10-15 cm each, is placed on the bottom.
Sprinkle with a little water and tamp tightly.
After the formwork is mounted from wooden planks(plywood sheets) 10–20 mm thick and about a meter high. The part of the formwork that is above the ground should be 40–70 cm high. Since the tree can absorb some of the moisture from the solution, the formwork should be pre-moistened with water or wrapped in a layer of dense polyethylene.

A reinforcing belt of rods with a diameter of 1.2–1.5 cm is installed inside the formwork. Horizontal and vertical rows are connected between themselves by welding or special rigid wire.
The space inside the structure is filled with cement-concrete mortar of the M200 grade or higher. The entire foundation must be done at one time without temporary interruptions. The mixture must be poured so that its level does not reach 10-15 cm to the upper edge of the formwork.
In order for the foundation to have a homogeneous composition without air, it must be treated with a special construction vibrator.
After that, the base is covered with polyethylene so that debris and sediments do not get into the cement. During the first few days, the foundation should be watered with water to prevent cracks and chips.
The formwork can be removed after 3-7 days, depending on the average daily temperature.

Also, do not forget to leave holes 5–10 cm in diameter in the thickness of the base for ventilation. At this stage, it is important to provide for the wiring of water supply and electricity, having previously dug a separate trench at a slight angle for the drain and the sewerage system.

Important! You can start further work on the construction of the walls in at least three weeks. It is after this period that the solution completely solidifies, turning into a monolith.

The oven and pool require separate foundation... They build it according to the same scheme as the main one.

Walling

As soon as the base has gained strength, you can proceed directly to the construction of the walls. But before that, it is worthwhile to carry out work on waterproofing the foundation. For this purpose, roofing material is used, which is laid in two layers and attached to the base with liquid bitumen. You can also use regular resin or special water-repellent foundation mastics.

The first row of blocks, like the rest, are laid on the edge with the only difference - the blocks of the first row are connected to each other using a conventional cement-sand mortar with the same ratio as when laying the foundation. Optimum thickness walls made of foam blocks - 25 cm.

The durability and reliability of the entire structure depends on the quality of the first row of masonry, so be careful and take this stage seriously. Check each block with a building level and punch with a rubber mallet to make the masonry tight.

Starting from the second row, the process will go faster and easier, since construction glue is used instead of cement mortar. To prepare it, it is enough to mix dry glue powder with water in the proportions indicated on the package. It will take you 5-10 minutes. It is better to lay the subsequent rows, focusing on the fishing line, which, for convenience, can be pulled along the wall.

The adhesive solution must be applied in a thin layer, 5–6 mm will be enough. Larger seams between the blocks will result in greater heat loss.

To make the structure extremely stable and reliable, reinforcement is carried out every 3-4 rows. For this purpose, use exactly the same rods as for reinforcing the foundation. A wall chaser will help you with this, with which they cut small trenches in the thickness of the blocks. For a small bathhouse, instead of fittings, you can use a metal mesh.

In the process of laying the walls, leave openings for the further installation of door and window frames. As soon as the walls are fully erected, they are left for 3-4 days, and only after that the construction of the rafter system is started.

Roof installation

The basis of the rafter system is the Mauerlat. But before attaching the Mauerlat, it is necessary to prepare a base that will help to evenly distribute the roof load on the walls. For this, the uppermost row of walls is laid from U-shaped blocks, inside which a reinforcement belt is installed from thin metal rods with a diameter of 10 mm. Inside the structure, with a step of 1 m, it is necessary to install studs with a diameter of 14 mm. The resulting structure should be poured with concrete of a grade not lower than M200.

After the solution has completely solidified, the upper row of blocks is isolated from moisture. For this purpose, use the same roofing material or polymer-based bitumen mastics.

Next, the Mauerlat itself is installed from a bar with a section of 15x5 cm. Holes for the studs are drilled in it. This design will serve as the basis for the rafter system and the roof as a whole. Everything wooden elements the roof must first be treated with an antiseptic and antifungal primer. After impregnation, the tree is dried, and only after that it can be used for roof installation.

There are a huge number of different variations roof devices are both single-pitched and gable, and more complex shapes... Consider in the article exactly gable roof as it has the best value for money.

It is most convenient to collect the rafter legs on the ground, and only then lift them up and attach them to the Mauerlat. The rafters are assembled from boards with a section of 10x5 cm. First, the building fronts, and then the intermediate rafters. The structure must be reinforced with temporary supports. For this, you can use small boards that are nailed vertically.

The constructed rafters are lifted and attached to the Mauerlat using metal corners and plates. Then between rafter legs mount the crate, on top of which, with the help of construction stapler nailed hydro and steam insulation. A counter-lattice of small slats is installed on top, leaving a small gap of 12 cm for ventilation, on top of which the main one is mounted roofing material... For the bath, it is recommended to use corrugated board - it is lightweight and protects well from precipitation.

At this stage, remember to provide an opening for the chimney. It must be additionally insulated.

After the installation of the rafter system, work is to be done on the installation of the floor, the heater-stove, the insulation of the walls inside and the cladding of the facade of the bath. Installation of doors and double-glazed windows, furniture, wiring of electricity, arrangement of a bathroom. You can read more about each stage in separate articles, since it can take a very long time to describe all possible options, tips, rules and recommendations.

Let's summarize

Now that you are familiar with the main stages of building a foam block bath with your own hands, learned the features of this material, its advantages and disadvantages, you can independently build a bath that your loved ones can use, with proper care, for many decades.

Modern construction methods, new technologies and materials today make it possible to implement literally any construction project with your own hands. And therefore, many masters on their own land plots without fail strive to build a small but extremely necessary structure -. However, even such a structure, as practice shows, requires drawing up the correct project and thorough thinking about all the little things. And despite the prevailing opinion that the Russian bath must necessarily be from a log house, nevertheless, they increasingly began to be mentioned as the main material for the walls of the bath.

The project of a bath from foam blocks with a veranda.

Today, it is foam blocks that are the main material for the construction of most houses and outbuildings. Lightweight, durable, fireproof material allows not only to erect low-rise buildings of any complexity, but also allows you to significantly save both time and money for the construction of the building. At the same time, the technology of using foam concrete blocks has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account in the construction of buildings.

What foundation is better to choose for a foam concrete bath

Unlike traditional wall materials used in the construction of baths as a capital structure, foam concrete has significant differences, affecting, first of all, on. The widespread opinion that all types of foundations are suitable for this type of blocks, not quite right... A solid, stable base for a foam block bath excludes a pile type of foundation. This exception is due, first of all, to the fact that it is impossible to install walls even from such a relatively light material on separate piles. Even if the lightest of the 450 foam concrete blocks is taken for construction, the load on the beams used as an insulating material will be too large.

Depending on local conditions, the foundation for a foam block bath can be:

Grillage foundation;

Grillage, depending on the local conditions of the location of the building, is perfect for placing a building on soft soils, embankments and areas with a natural slope.

Monolithic base typical for the location of buildings on soft soils, in places where they rise high groundwater, and areas subject to seasonal influences, when soil saturated with moisture swells in winter.

Strip foundation for the construction of a building is the best option, not only in terms of the convenience of construction, but also in terms of cost and labor intensity. For strip foundation, unlike other types of foundations, a shallow depth of 0.5-0.7 meters is sufficient.

Strip foundation for a small bath 6 * 4

The device of the strip foundation provides for a fragment of a pit 50-60 cm wide for the main load-bearing walls and 35-40 cm for the walls. Phased construction foundation provides:

Clearing the construction site;
Foundation marking;
Excerpt from the pit;
Formwork installation;
Installation of places for laying communications through the foundation;
Frame installation;
Filling the form.

How to correctly assemble timber formwork is clearly demonstrated on the Alexander Kvasha channel in the video:

Important! For a strong strip base, it is not necessary to use thick reinforcement, even reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm, if properly laid and bonded, will provide a more reliable and durable base.

When pouring a strip foundation, it is necessary to maintain the fill level as accurately and competently as possible. A foam block construction requires that the maximum height difference is no more than 3 cm between opposite sides of the building.

Many bath projects, as the main source of heat, are massive, which means that during the construction of the foundation it is necessary to fill and base for the oven.

A feature of the tape-type base is the ability to lay the main communications before the walls are erected... That is why professionals advise, after the formwork is removed, to do exactly the laying of the main engineering systems- water supply, sewerage and, if necessary, electrical cables. After completing the routing of communications, backfilling and leveling of the soil are usually carried out into the inner part of the foundation. The soil is poured in such a way that it does not reach the top of the foundation 18-20 cm. After compaction, a 5 cm sand cushion is poured, and then a 10 cm layer of expanded clay. Reinforcement and pouring are carried out on top of expanded clay concrete screed 4-5 cm thick. The screed is arranged taking into account the required slope for the device for draining water into the sewer.

Erection of walls and decoration of a bath from foam blocks

One of the secrets of how to properly build a bath from foam blocks is the specifics of the installation blocks of the first row... Although the foam block, in contrast, does not absorb water in such a large volume, before starting the laying of the walls, a layer must be installed on the foundation. Waterproofing is laid literally along the entire foundation, regardless of whether it is external load-bearing walls or interior partitions.

In more detail and clearly, the technology of erecting walls from blocks is demonstrated in the video of the company "N + N":

And although a gas silicate block is used here as a material, the process itself is fully disclosed to the smallest detail.

It must be remembered that foam concrete blocks there are several brands, when marking the marking of which the nominal density of the material is used. The lightest are blocks for insulation, they have a density of 450 kg / m3. Medium density is suitable for both construction internal partitions and for load-bearing walls with low load - density 500-750 kg / m3. The density of 1000 kg / m3 allows the construction of load-bearing walls in low-rise buildings.

First row of blocks experienced builders install on a cement-sand mortar. This type of binder solution allows you to smooth out flaws in the foundation without much effort and create conditions for the effective laying of blocks of the remaining rows. The surface of the first row of foam blocks should be as smooth and even as possible, both internal and outer surface should not have flaws in the form of distortions. Leveling is carried out using a level and a rubber mallet. The laying of the second and subsequent rows is carried out on an adhesive basis, if the first row is laid evenly, then the rest of the rows will have an ideal look.

The scheme of the step-by-step construction of a bath provides for such an operation as wall reinforcement... Installation of the reinforcing belt of walls is carried out every 2 rows of blocks along the entire perimeter of the building. Steel structural reinforcement rods are used as reinforcement diameter 6, 8 or 10 mm... Photos of masonry reinforcement are presented below (photo from the site vopros-remont.ru):

And how to build partitions from half foam concrete blocks can be found at the link:

The specificity of foam concrete is reflected in the technology interior decoration of the bath... Unlike traditional materials, such as timber or, the interior surface of the walls made of foam concrete has its own characteristics:

It is imperative to install a vapor and waterproof coating;
When finishing the steam room, in addition to steam and waterproofing, a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool is mandatory;
Rooms with high humidity should be equipped with effective system ventilation.

In order to avoid the penetration of fungi and mold into the micropores of the material, the surface of the walls is treated deep penetration primer with bio-protective properties... This primer provides a more durable surface, because it fills and clogs literally all the pores. The next step is installation of a waterproofing screen... Waterproofing is installed both on the walls and on ceiling space, the only exception is the ceiling above the stove and in the place where the chimney is installed.

The vertical lathing is installed every 50-60 cm. For the lathing, coniferous slats of 50 * 50 mm are used. The distance between the battens is filled with foil mineral wool... The next layer is the vapor barrier. And ends interior decoration premises installation wooden lining or a block of house.

Is it possible to build a sauna from foam blocks?

Despite the immense popularity of this building material, its obvious advantages and advantages over traditional building materials, in each case, again and again, you have to answer the question of whether it is possible to build a bath from foam blocks.

This situation is partly due to a lack of understanding differences between gas silicate blocks and foam blocks... Both types of blocks are manufactured using the latest production technologies. building materials... It is simply impossible to create a porous internal structure of a material without high-tech equipment. But it is in this structure that the difference lies in the technical and physical properties of materials.

A gas block or a block of aerated concrete during production, under the influence of high temperature and pressure, hydrogen is released during a chemical reaction. This reaction occurs evenly throughout the volume of the mixture, thus forming a uniform cellular structure of the material. This feature allows aerated concrete to be more durable compared to a foam block. However, open cells of aerated concrete blocks perfectly absorb moisture, which affects both mechanical properties material, and for the life of a building made of gas blocks.

A foam block, unlike a gas block, is formed from a ready-made foamed mass, while achieving a homogeneous structure is almost never possible. On the other hand, the foam has the form of small bubbles and, when solidified, forms a closed cell structure much more than the structure of aerated concrete. This feature allows you to obtain a heat capacity comparable to conifers trees and a small moisture absorption coefficient - the maximum rate, which is only 15%.

Clearly from the point of view of a professional, the features of the use of foam concrete and gas silicate blocks in construction are disclosed in the video of Gleb Green

This is a very competent and informative video that reveals many nuances of construction technology and gives a complete idea of how to build a building from foam concrete yourself.

Is it possible to build a bath from foam blocks is revealed in the user's material:

Here you should pay attention to the comparison mechanical characteristics of aerated concrete and foam blocks.

In general, today the network has enough not only video and photographic materials, in order to deeply study the issue of the technology of building a bath from foam blocks - just type in the browser "building a bath with our own hands" and follow the link.

Today, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build baths not from an expensive bar or log, but from a cheaper foam block. This material has simply remarkable performance characteristics and, moreover, is quite easy to install.

The feasibility of using foam blocks

Baths made from this material are usually very inexpensive. In addition, foam blocks have almost all the same advantages as wood: they perfectly let air through ("breathe"), are very easy to cut, and are not too heavy. Their advantage, in comparison with a bar and a log, is that they do not burn at all and do not rot. The disadvantages of walls made of this material include the fact that it is able to absorb moisture, while gradually collapsing. Therefore, projects of baths from foam blocks should be developed taking into account the features of this material, in particular, its hygroscopicity.

According to the SNiP standards, it is prohibited to build baths from foamed cement. However, these rules were invented quite a long time ago. Since then, a huge number of materials with truly unique properties have appeared on the market. Foam concrete also applies to them. In addition, SNiP standards were developed mainly in relation to public baths. Of course, in this case, the rules must be very strict. A small summer cottage made of foam blocks can become a very convenient and rather durable structure. But of course, only on condition that all the rules and construction technologies are observed.

Advantages of a foam block bath

In addition to the low cost and rather pleasant microclimate, the advantages of such structures include environmental safety... When heated, foam blocks do not emit absolutely any harmful substances. In addition, they retain heat very well, that is, you will not have to heat the bath more than once on a washing day. Since the foam block is not flammable, you do not have to comply with any special regulations when installing the heater.

And of course, the undoubted advantage of this material is the ease of installation. Assembling a bath from a log or bar is a rather laborious and technologically complex task. Not everyone has the experience of erecting such structures in our time. Probably, any owner of a suburban area can lay out block walls.

Projects of baths from foam blocks can be any, that is, the owners of the site have the opportunity to choose the layout of this structure at their discretion. The material is easily cut even with an ordinary metal hacksaw.

Disadvantages of a foam block bath

The disadvantages of a foam block bath are, first of all, dampness and destruction of walls, in particular, saturating blocks with water is dangerous in winter period time. In a heated bath, vapors easily penetrate the porous material. After the steam has cooled, the water freezes and, expanding, simply tears apart the concrete. Therefore, when building a bath from foam blocks, special measures should be taken to waterproof the walls. In addition, the building will also have to be insulated. In this case, the walls will cool longer, and therefore, even if water gets into the material, it may have time to dry before freezing. In addition, much less condensation collects on insulated walls.

Of course, all these tricks: waterproofing, insulation, ventilation - will cost the owner of the bath a pretty penny. Therefore, structures for this purpose from foam blocks are usually built only in the steppe regions, that is, where it is difficult to get wood, or it is very expensive. In the forest regions of the country, it may be more expedient to build nevertheless wooden bath... Most likely, it will cost a little more than a paving stone.

Sauna from foam blocks: price

The cost of such a structure will depend, of course, primarily on the layout and size. A 60x30x20 wall foam block costs about 2,500 rubles per cubic meter. A small 3x4 meters with one partition and a ceiling height of 2 m will take just over 6 m 3. That is, the actual construction of the walls will cost about 16-20 thousand rubles. In this case, you will need about 5 m 3 of mineral wool. It will cost about 8 thousand rubles more. About 2,000 rubles will be spent on glue solution. Thus, the walls of a small bath made of foam blocks, with a rough estimate, will cost about 30 thousand rubles. Of course, to this amount you will need to add the cost of the foundation, lumber for the floor, ceiling and roof, waterproofing and lining.

A large 6x4 bath from a foam block will, of course, cost more. It has recently become very fashionable to build attics on such structures. This, of course, is very convenient and allows you to save space on the site, but of course, it will additionally increase the cost of the structure. The walls and partitions of a standard 6x4 m bath will take about 11 m 3 blocks.

Erection of the foundation and walls

Building a bath from foam blocks is a simple procedure. Such a structure is being erected in about the same way as a brick one. The difference is that the seams in the foam block masonry are very thin, and a special glue is used as a solution for fastening the blocks. When erecting even a small bath from this material, it is advisable to reinforce the walls. To do this, in every fourth row, metal rods are placed in the grooves cut out by a grinder. An armored belt must also be placed on top of the masonry.

It is recommended to make the foundation for a bath from foam blocks of a tape and quite powerful. All foam materials are brittle. And therefore, even with small movements of the ground, the walls folded from them can crack. For the same reason, blocks should be laid as evenly as possible, using berths, plumb lines and a level.

from foam block

In order for the walls not to be saturated with water from below from the ground, it is worth arranging special floors in such a structure. They need to be made concrete and slightly inclined towards the center. In the middle of the bath, in this case, install the receiving tray and plastic drain... The pipes should be laid underground below the freezing level and pulled up to the septic tank.

In order to extend the life of concrete floors, they should be covered with rough tiles. The base itself should be treated with penetrating waterproofing before laying it. On top of the tiles, special ones are usually installed in the future. wooden lattice... After taking water procedures, they can be taken outside and dried.

Foundation waterproofing

This operation must be performed without fail. In this case, you will get a durable bath made of foam blocks. The owners' reviews of such buildings are not bad, but only if they are waterproofed according to all the rules. For the basement of the bath, both vertical and horizontal waterproofing is usually used. When installing the tape, a sufficiently thick layer of sand should be poured onto the bottom of the pit. After the concrete of the foundation gains sufficient strength, its top is glued with two layers of roofing material.

The walls of the base of the bath must be protected from moisture both outside and inside. In this case, you can also use roofing material. Penetrating agents are also considered a very good solution for waterproofing the basement of a bath. Sometimes the walls of the base are coated bituminous mastic in two layers.

Wall waterproofing

To protect the enclosing structures of the bath from moisture, it is best to use foil vapor barriers. You can take special isospan or penofol. Today on the market there are foil materials designed specifically for baths. Fasten the waterproofer to the wall with beams. The joints should be additionally covered with nails and glued on top with metallized tape. The lining is subsequently attached to the bars.

The ceiling of a bath is usually made of planks. You can protect it from moisture using an impregnating waterproofing designed specifically for wood. A bath with a foam block attic is very convenient. However, when choosing just such a project, it should be borne in mind that in this case, the roof will most likely have to be waterproofed from the inside. The microclimate in the mansards of the baths is usually quite humid.

Bath insulation

Next, let's see how from foam blocks. It is possible to isolate a structure made of this material from the cold using both expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. The latter material is considered preferable. The fact is that expanded polystyrene does not allow air to pass through very well. When using it, the walls of the bath will not "breathe". Insulation should be carried out exclusively from the outside. The fact is that when sheathing from the inside, the so-called moves inside the walls, and they begin to get damp.

How is a foam block bath insulated? Owner reviews of such structures are good only if this operation is performed correctly. Foam wall insulation technology usually includes the following steps:

A crate made of timber is stuffed onto the walls.
Insulation is installed between its elements. Cotton wool can be mounted just by surprise. Expanded polystyrene should be additionally secured with mushroom dowels.
The frame with insulation is covered with waterproofing material.
Installed outer cladding... It can be a lining, a block house, etc. Baths from a foam block, sheathed with a front vinyl siding imitating a stone.

You can also paste over the walls of the bath with very dense mineral wool with additional fasteners - "fungi", and then finish it with decorative plaster.

How to arrange ventilation in the bath

Thus, you now know how to build a bath from foam blocks, as well as insulate and waterproof it. Next, let's figure out how to make ventilation in this structure. The foam block bath must be ventilated without fail. Ventilation in the bath is arranged as follows:

In the immediate vicinity of the stove, at a height of no more than 30 cm from the floor, an inlet is made in the wall. Sometimes it is made in the basement of the bath. In the latter case, a hole (with a latch) must also be made in the floor.
An exhaust hole is drilled into the opposite wall at the top. A valve is installed on it. If the opposite wall does not face the street, the exhaust hole should be made in the same wall as the supply one, but from above and in the opposite corner. In the latter case, an exhaust fan should be used to ensure good air flow.

Bath from foam blocks: reviews of the owners

The owners of suburban areas have a very good opinion about structures of this type. The owners of the foam block baths note, first of all, that they keep the heat very well. In addition, such buildings do not require any special care: treatment with anti-rot, caulking, etc.

Of course, the foam block baths have earned good reviews for their low cost. Almost everyone can build such a structure on their site. If you sheathe a foam block bath from the inside with linden clapboard, it will smell like a real wooden one. The same goes for the benefits of taking water treatments. In addition, judging by the reviews of the owners, the smell of dampness never appears in the foam block bath. Outside, such a bath can be sheathed with a block house, and then it will look quite traditional.

As you can see, with the exact observance of all the established technologies a very good sauna can be built from foam blocks. The owners' reviews of such structures are mostly good. But only if ventilation is arranged in the bath, and its walls are well insulated and waterproofed.