House from a bar 140x140 for winter. What is the optimal bar thickness for a bar house. What kind of timber to build a "winter" house

A solid log house, where it will be comfortable to rest or live permanently, is not only the beauty, comfort and charm of natural wood, but first of all warmth. It is not surprising that one of the main questions of those who decided to build a dream home is what thickness of timber to choose. After all, the cost of materials, the need for insulation and the effectiveness of heat conservation in cold winters will depend on this. Well, let's figure it out.

Warmth in the house is a relative concept and depends on many factors. If you wish, you can heat almost any building, the only question is how much will have to be spent on it (time, money, fuel). If the walls give off too much heat to the street, in fact it turns out that you mainly heat this very street. This will not happen only when the walls are thick enough, correctly calculated, processed and insulated.

What is the thickness of the timber?

Today, several types of timber are produced: solid, profiled and glued. The first is a log sawn from all sides and, in addition to its low cost, cannot boast of many advantages. The width of the beams ranges from 150-220 millimeters. However, it should be noted that even the thickest solid bar will retain heat worse than profiled, since due to the absence of grooves and spikes, the inter-crown seams do not fit so tightly to each other and are more blown out.

Profiled timber is much warmer, more practical and easier to assemble houses. It can have several pins and grooves. The more of them, the better the bars adhere, the warmer and more reliable the wall becomes. The same can be said about the glued profiled timber, which, among other things, is not susceptible to cracking. The width of the logs can be very different, but sections of 100x100, 150x100, 150x150 and 200x200 are most suitable for building houses.

What determines the choice of the thickness of the timber?

First of all, you should focus on the purpose of the building - they will live in it permanently or only during the summer season. For temporary use in the summer, the ability of the walls to retain heat is not so important, therefore, a profiled bar thickness of 100-150 millimeters is quite enough. If you plan to live in the house all year round, we recommend a bar with a section of 200x200 millimeters.

It is also important to take into account the climatic features of the region. The Moscow region is located in the middle zone; winters here are not as severe as in the north or in Siberia, but not warm either. The value of heat transfer resistance in reference books is denoted as 3.0.

There is a formula by which you can calculate the required wall thickness in the house, depending on the climatic zone. The value of the heat transfer resistance in the climatic zone is multiplied by the thermal conductivity of the material (for wood it is 0.15). That is, 3.0 * 0.15 = 0.45 meters. In other words, 450 millimeters. The only problem is that timber of this size is not available.

And if with insulation?

We were faced with a problem: according to the formulas and SNiPs, the thickness of the wall of a wooden house in the Moscow region should be 450 millimeters, but such a bar cannot be found. The only way out is to keep warm. It is considered that 50 mm of insulation = 150 mm of ordinary timber. Accordingly, suitable options:

timber 150 mm thick + 100 mm insulation (similar to 300 mm timber);
timber 200 mm thick + 50 mm insulation.

In the first case, exactly the desired SNiPom 450 millimeters comes out. In the second - 350 mm, however, as practice shows, they are completely enough to preserve heat if a profiled beam is used. After all, the degree of its blowing by the wind is much lower, warm air does not leave the house through cracks, and cold air has fewer opportunities to get inside.

Output

Wherever and for what you build a house, it will be warmer and more comfortable if you choose a profiled bar. For temporary residence, a section of 100x150 or 150x150 is sufficient. For permanent residence in the Moscow region, a profiled bar 150x150 is suitable, provided that a 100 mm insulation is installed, or a profiled bar 200x200, provided that a 50 mm insulation is installed.

The specialists of the company "Venga" are always ready to advise you on any issues related to the construction of houses from a bar, give their recommendations and implement them!

Insufficient for the climate of the middle zone of the Russian Federation, the cross-section of the timber (without additional insulation and facade cladding, respectively) will force the heating boiler to operate in a locomotive mode. Limited financial resources for construction + influence (wives, mother-in-law) on the decision to save on thickness guarantee poor sound insulation and high expenses for house maintenance.

The optimal wall thickness (the width of the timber) means the opportunity not to spend money on unnecessary heating of the street. Depending on the height of the profile, the features of the equipment, profiled timber or glued must be at least 190-200mm wide.

In a wooden house, for visits only on weekends in winter, in the absence of people, it is imperative to maintain a temperature of + 10-12C °. Otherwise, after freezing / defrosting, the tree will begin to crack. Upon arrival, it will be easy to heat it to a comfortable temperature and then maintain it in a timber from 190mm. For a garden summer house, 140 or 150mm is enough... For a bath, such a section of a bar is theoretically enough, but it is better to cut down the Russian bath. The timber cracks quickly, twists strongly in the wall due to changes in humidity.

The ratio of the width and height of the profile of the timber has a negligible effect on heat loss. Many are more worried about natural cracking, which is inevitable when solid wood dries. Which, contrary to common misconception, is not eliminated by chamber drying by 100%. Therefore, the profiled timber is often given unequal dimensions: the width is greater than the height. Cracks form more intensively on a wider face and go deeper into the wall. There will be few of them on the visible outer surface (on the short side).

Most owners of log houses with a wall thickness of 140-150 mm should understand the inevitability of additional insulation from the side of the facade later. If the house is permanently resident, the process of throwing money into the firebox can be tiresome after the first heating one. Insulation is done outside: the closer it is to the cold side of the wall, the more effective the insulation is. Plus the shift of the "dew point" towards the street.

In houses made of simple timber, in contrast to profiled cladding, the facade cladding still protects flat joints without a profile lock from water ingress and blowing by the wind. The most reliable and beautiful facade cladding is facing brick. The house looks rich, well protected from bad weather. But, the final investment is several times higher than the cost of the additional width of the timber, sufficient in terms of heat.

Interesting fact: after lining the timber walls with bricks, the heating intensity does not decrease... This is due to the excessive moisture content of the solid wood due to the lack of the possibility of unimpeded removal of moisture from the interior outside the walls made of wood. The thermotechnical characteristics of the timber are deteriorating. The overall wall thickness is large and heating bills are rising.

The balance between the cost of wall material / heating costs over the years justifies the increase in wall thickness up to 190-200mm. You need to understand: the cost of solid wood walls is only 1/4 of the total construction estimate(foundation, roof, communications, decoration). If financial possibilities permit, thicker is always better (warmer). General heat loss at home also depends on professional assembly; the quality of insulation of the attic, floors, ceilings; glazing area.

Large heating costs in winter, due to savings on the cross-section of the timber, will gradually negate all the initial benefits. From intense heating, an expensive tree darkens and bursts. If you try to preserve the beauty of the massif in this case, you will have to sacrifice something, although physically it can easily endure the low air temperature. Turn down the heating - you sacrifice human health.

When building your own wooden house, each person asks the question: "How to choose the optimal timber thickness for internal and external walls"? Our article will help you figure out what types and sizes of this material are, how to correctly calculate its thickness and understand for yourself what is the required thickness of a bar for a house from a bar in your case.

Types and sizes of wood for building houses

There are three types of timber for building houses.

Planed profiled and non-profiled;
Glued.

Round timber is a log itself, from which the bark and the top layer of the tree are cut off by the machine.

At the same time, the diameter of the log is the same along the entire length, which greatly facilitates the construction of the house.

The disadvantages include:

high shrinkage of the log house (up to 10%);
it is also possible the formation of cracks, especially in the corners of the frame and the joints, which is unacceptable;
in addition, such a blockhouse has a high airflow rate;
very vulnerable to infection by fungus and mold;
due to low manufacturing accuracy and high shrinkage, additional caulking of the seams is usually required after complete drying.

Manufactured at the factory from wood with a residual moisture content of not more than 30%. For this, the log is sawn to the required size.

Standard beam sections:

150x150,
150x200,
200x200 mm.

Its indisputable advantage in comparison with round timber is the absence of excess wood, which means that the house requires a less massive foundation. In addition, it is much more convenient to build from a rectangular bar and, therefore, faster.

The disadvantages are the same as for round timber, except for high shrinkage.

The profiled bar is distinguished by the fact that grooves are selected from opposite sides at the factory in such a way that the structure is assembled using the “tongue-and-groove” method during assembly.

This creates a very precise connection that is practically not blown by the wind. The disadvantages remain the same, except for blow-through.

Glued laminated timber is already a new technology in the production of timber for construction. It is devoid of all the disadvantages inherent in all previous types of material.

The timber is made of boards dried to a relative humidity of 2-10% and glued together under high pressure in a package. After gluing, the finished package is profiled.

Due to the layered structure, he:

does not shrink;
does not crack;
does not dry out.

Since in the process of gluing the boards are treated with special antifungal compounds, the glued timber does not grow moldy and does not grow thin. - significantly higher price.

Ready-made kits for assembly

Many factories for the production of laminated veneer lumber make special sets of wooden houses for construction with their own hands. The kit includes all the necessary elements with ready-made cuts for connections to each other.

All elements must be marked. From such a kit, a house is built as a constructor.

The maximum thickness of laminated veneer lumber is determined by both GOSTs and the equipment on which it is produced. Typically, a material is made for walls up to 9 m long with a thickness of 210 to 270 mm and a height of up to 270 mm.

Rafters and floor beams are made up to 12 m in length and up to 50x100 mm cross-section. I must say that there are other sizes.

A set for the construction of a wooden house is made at the factory according to an individual order.

The delivery set may include:

a sealant made of special non-woven fabric, which is not subject to decay and smoldering to ensure the tightness of the walls of the house;
or a bar with wedge-shaped grooves and protrusions to ensure the tightness of the connection;
tie rods and staples;
compression springs with a force of up to 2000 kg each, so that during operation the tree does not warp and gaps do not appear as it shrinks;
assembly drawings and instructions for assembling a house with your own hands;
specification of materials included;
manufacturer's warranty obligations;
quality and ecology conformity certificates;
3D models of the finished house.

How to choose the optimal timber thickness for your home

According to building codes (SNiP), the thickness of the timber for the house is selected depending on the climate of the territory in which the construction of the house is planned. However, I must say that there are some calculations by which you can establish the exact value of this parameter.

Calculation formulas

The thickness of the walls of the house is selected in this case according to two main criteria:

sanitary and hygienic (standardized);
energy saving.

The required size for the walls can be calculated using the formula:

Sm = R * Kt;

where Sm is the required material thickness,

R is the heat transfer resistance of the wall (depending on the region of residence),

Kt is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material.

For the middle strip, the heat transfer resistance of the wall is taken to be 3.0 - 3.2. Kt for wood 0.12-0.18 depending on the type of wood. For a specific region, this value can be found in the appropriate reference.

Thus, we get for a house built from pine timber:

Sm = 3.0 * 0.15 = 0.45m

Those. the thickness of the timber for the building should be 450 mm. In practice, material with such dimensions is not produced. In order to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room, it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside. For wall insulation, both inside and outside, an imitation of a bar is used, under which a layer of insulation based on mineral wool is laid.

Advice! In practice, according to experts, with a wall timber thickness of 150 mm, insulation with a thickness of 100 mm is sufficient, and if the timber is 200 mm, then 50 mm of insulation is enough.

Wall insulation

In order to make it comfortable for living, an imitation of a bar is used to insulate the walls both from the inside and outside. Due to the variety of shapes and sizes of this lumber, everyone can choose it to their liking.

Outdoor decoration

Standard simulation lengths are 3 and 6m. There are also sizes 2, 2.2, 3.6, 5.4 m.
The thickness of the imitation of a bar is from 18 to 34 mm. The width of the lamellas is from 110 to 190 mm.
In practice, for outdoor decoration, a material with a width of 150 mm and a thickness of 25-32 mm is used in order to achieve the maximum similarity of the finish with a natural material.
If you use a narrower imitation of a bar, then the wall will resemble a clapboard, and therefore there is no point in overpaying.

In order to achieve a minimum number of joints for outdoor decoration, the length of the lamellas should be selected more than the length of the wall.

So that over time the wall finished with an imitation of a bar does not warp, to select the thickness of an imitation of a bar, you should use SNiP, which regulates the ratio of the width of the lamellas and their thickness according to the formula:

T = W / 5.5,

where T is the thickness of the lamella, and W is its width.

Advice! When laying the insulation outside on a wooden wall, a vapor barrier layer should be placed on both sides of the insulation. This is necessary in order to prevent moisture from entering both inside and outside.

Interior decoration

For interior decoration, it is advisable to use an imitation with a width of less than 110 mm. This is due to the fact that the wider the lamella, the optically smaller the size of the finished room. In addition, the thickness of the imitation of the timber in this case can be significantly less than with external finishing, and therefore cheaper.

The product is fastened indoors, often in different directions, which allows you to choose the optimal length. Usually take a length of 2 or 3m. With such lengths, among other things, it is much more convenient to work indoors.

It is especially worthwhile to dwell on the finishing of the ceiling. On the ceiling, the lamella joints are clearly visible. Therefore, for ceiling filing, either an imitation of a timber for the entire length of the room should be used or joined with the parquet method, alternating the joint of the lamellas with the middle of the next one.

Output

It becomes clear that the process has its own nuances and some subtleties associated with calculations, including the calculation of the optimal thickness of the material. Of course, this work is not the most difficult, but it also requires detailed consideration.

And the video in this article will help you figure out some other points.

This question, to be honest, is somewhat incorrect. The fact is that the profiled timber can withstand any temperature, and -30 * C, and -50 * C, but the point is, how much heat is required for this? Therefore, speaking about the limiting external temperatures for a profiled bar, one should consider the optimal ratio between the allowable heat loss, the required temperature in the house and the total thermal resistance of the wall from the bar, which depends on the thickness of the material, its physical characteristics and quality.

Does the thickness of the timber house wall matter?

If the walls are not additionally insulated, then of course it does. As mentioned above, the main indicator that determines the preservation of heat in a house is the thermal resistance of a wall made of timber. Depending on the thickness of the material, this value has the following meanings:

- for a bar with a thickness of 100 mm - 0.55 m2 x * C / W;

- for a bar with a thickness of 150 mm - 0.83 m2 x * C / W;

- for a bar with a thickness of 200 mm - 1.09 m2 x * C / W.

As you can see, the thicker the wall, the greater its thermal resistance, and therefore less heat is lost. Resistance 0.83 m2 x * C / W provides an acceptable amount of heat loss through the enclosing structure in a temperate climate zone, is able to provide comfortable conditions for living in a house. Based on the requirements of building codes, then to ensure the economical operation of the heating system at a temperature of –30 * C, a minimum thickness of a timber of 380 mm is required, and a rounded log of more than half a meter. These values were obtained by calculation, which took into account the position of the dew point inside the walls, the minimum allowable heat loss and the usual (i.e. poor quality) material.

What temperatures can a timber of various cross-sections withstand?

Of course, no one uses a beam with a cross section of more than 380 mm and logs of half a meter thickness when building a house, since they are simply not on sale, and as practice shows, a profiled beam with a cross section of 150 x 150 mm, without additional thermal insulation, quite provides comfortable conditions at an outside air temperature to –26 * С. A beam with a section of 100 x 150 mm, at an outside air temperature of up to -19 * C, and a section of 200 x 150 at a temperature of up to -31 * C. This difference between theoretical design data and practical indicators is ensured by the high quality of modern materials and improved technologies for the construction of houses from profiled timber. And the use of additional thermal insulation with a thickness of only 100 mm, when fixed on the outer surface of the wall, increases the thermal resistance of the structure by 2-3 times, respectively, increasing the indicators of limiting temperatures. And then, the thickness of the wall can be calculated only as a supporting structure, selecting the required thickness of thermal insulation to reduce heat loss through it.

What is the thickness of the timber wall to choose for permanent residence?

The thickness of the wall made of fillet timber in a house for permanent residence is determined by the climatic region of the house construction, the average and lowest outside air temperatures in winter. For a temperate climate with a design temperature from –24 * C to –28 * C, you can use a profiled bar with a section of 150 150 mm or 150 x 200 mm, providing a wall thickness of 150 mm. At lower temperatures, beams with a thickness of 200 mm should be used for construction. Or use an additional outer layer of thermal insulation.

Can a log house withstand strong winds?

Of course it can stand, since the assembly technology of such a house provides for the connection of rows to each other with the help of special dowels, as well as reinforced fastenings at the corners of the building and at the junction of the internal walls. The lower row of the timber is attached to the foundation using embedded parts, the threaded rods of which go through the timber through and through. The house assembled in this way for shrinkage is very durable, so even a very strong wind is not afraid of it. Modern technology of construction of houses from construction timber guarantees their high quality and durability.