Do-it-yourself ceramic tile laying: laying process and laying technology video. How to lay tiles on the floor and walls: step by step instructions Installing ceramic tiles on the wall

Tiles are an ideal finishing option for bathrooms where high humidity is retained and a high level of hygiene is required. Laying tiles in the bathroom is considered one of the most difficult and time-consuming steps in renovating a room.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the technology of working with tiles - from the preparation of consumables to the final grouting and installation of plumbing.

What is needed for work?

Before you begin the process of laying tiles, you need to purchase a sufficient amount of the tile itself, tile adhesive and prepare tools.

Tile

When choosing a color, design and configuration of tiles, you can safely focus on your own taste and financial capabilities.

It should be noted that tiles will be needed not only for wall cladding, but also for floors. On the floor, a thicker tile with an anti-slip surface is used.

Advice! On glossy wall tiles, stains and splashes of water are more noticeable, matte hides these nuances, but is less easy to clean.

The consultants of the hardware store will help to correctly calculate the amount of facing material. You only need to measure the total area of all walls and floor, subtracting the area of the doorway and window (if any).

As a rule, another 5% is added to the final number of tiles for marriage, breakage and additional costs.

tile adhesive

The simplest tile laying compounds are produced on the basis of cement in the form of a dry mix. It contains modified additives that give the solution the necessary plasticity and improve adhesion to the surface.

For interior decoration, which includes bathroom cladding, you can use epoxy or polyurethane tile adhesive. Ideally, if the adhesive composition will have fungicidal properties that prevent the formation of mold.

It is easy to work in the bathroom and with quick-drying compounds that set in 3-5 hours after installation. By the amount of consumables, one should be guided by such an indicator - 5 kg of dry mix per 5 m2 of tiles.

Necessary tools and materials

A set of tools for facing works includes:

building level or marking rope;
ruler and tape measure;
electric drill with drills;
solution container;
tile cutter, nippers or grinder with a nozzle for tiles;
foam sponge and rags;
primer brushes;
sandpaper;
a set of spatulas - wide with and without teeth, medium with teeth, narrow without teeth, soft for grouting;
wooden or metal measuring slats;
spacer crosses and decorative corners.

Of the additional materials, waterproofing, primer, grout and sealant will also be needed.

Preparing the room for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Preliminary preparation of the premises will consist in the dismantling of plumbing and furnishings, as well as the removal of old cladding or decoration.

Clearing out the bathroom

It will not be possible to do without dismantling the plumbing, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work, and the final result will be unsatisfactory. You will have to do extra trimming of the tiles, which will add additional hassle.

The only thing that can not be dismantled is the toilet.

Before dismantling other plumbing, it is necessary to turn off the water, and close the openings of the sewer pipes with plugs.

Dismantling of the old cladding

Old ceramics are removed from the surface of the walls along with the adhesive base. First you need, abundantly wetting it with water and scraping it with a knife or tile. This method is suitable if the grout is soft.

It will be possible to remove cement grout only with the help of a grinder and a disk for working with stony blanks. In this case, the width of the cut should be slightly larger than the thickness of the tile.

Important! When working with a grinder or grinder, you need to take into account the location of communications - wiring and plumbing - so as not to accidentally damage them.

If previously the walls were simply painted, the surface should be treated with a grinder. The same method is suitable for cutting relief decorative plaster. The easiest way to remove waterproof wallpaper - they are cleaned with a spatula, and the walls are sanded with sandpaper.

Laying order

Now more directly about the technique of laying tiles, taking into account the nuances of the bathroom.

Preparing tools for tiling

When preparing tools, you can use the simplest list above. For more complex work, you will need cardboard, from which templates will be made, masking tape, a grinding machine, a ballerina, crowns for a drill. The latter are needed for drilling holes in the tiles in those areas where it will come into contact with the pipes.

Of the preparatory work, the preparation of a dry adhesive composition will also remain. It is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions in a separate container.

The dry solution is mixed with water using the nozzle of an electric drill - the consistency of the finished mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

Waterproofing

It is most convenient to produce coating materials based on bitumen and latex. They are designed to protect the concrete base from the adverse effects of dampness and to prevent emergencies associated with leaks.

There are three ways to distribute the coating layer:

only along the plane of the floor, going to the walls by 20 cm;
on the floor and areas adjacent to the plumbing;
along the floor and the entire height of the walls.

Sanding and priming walls

After the surfaces are sanded with a machine or sandpaper, it is necessary to carefully remove all residues of dust and debris, and then proceed to the primer.

As a rule, a primer for walls is sold already in the form of a finished liquid. Apply it with a wide fly brush from top to bottom. You need to make sure that the layer is not too thick, otherwise it will simply move away from the base.

Further work can be carried out only after the primer is completely dry. You can check this by running your hand along the wall.

Reference! Water-repellent primers dry in about 2 hours, acrylic primers in about 4 hours, and alkyd primers in up to 16 hours.

Unpacking and layout of tiles according to the drawing

After unpacking, you need to carefully inspect each tile for chips, bumps and other defects. Between themselves, the tiles should be laid evenly, without gaps, gaps and overlays.

It is better to put aside all elements with marriage - they will go to the facing of those areas where cutting is required.

To understand how the drawing will look like, and from which row it is better to start facing, the tiles are laid on a dry surface according to a pre-created drawing. You can do this right on the floor in the adjacent spacious room, or on the wall in the bathroom with an assistant.

Marking the wall vertically and horizontally

To begin with, the surface of the wall is measured - this will determine in which order it is better to lay the tiles in order to reduce the number of cuts.

It is most convenient to make markings using a wooden or metal measuring rail. It marks the position of each tile vertically with allowances for seams and crosses. On the reverse side of the rail mark the horizontal position of the tiles.

The lined rail is first fixed horizontally in level, retreating from the floor to the height of one tile, taking into account the seams. Then, according to the risks applied to the bar, mark the wall.

Vertical marking is carried out in a similar way - the rail is set on a plumb line and nailed. You should be guided by the already applied markings horizontally, starting from any angle.

If a distance slightly less than the width of the tile remains in the opposite corner, the rail is moved to the side so that the masonry looks harmonious.

If you plan to use a decorative border tile, first mark its position, and then proceed to draw the main area of the facing material.

The first stage of laying tiles

Start laying tiles from the second row. The first row will have to be skipped in order to qualitatively complete the floor cladding. For convenience, the lower border of the second row can be reinforced with a rigid metal profile nailed to the wall.

As for the corners, here the lining should be done from the edge that first catches the eye.

Advice! If the room is small, and the whole wall catches your eye, it is recommended to perform cladding from its middle.

The prepared adhesive can be applied both on the tile and directly on the wall. The adhesive layer must be even - distribute the composition with a notched trowel. Then the tile is applied to the designated area and held for several seconds until the composition sets. You can lightly tap the tile with the handle of the spatula so that it firmly takes its place.

Protruding excess glue is immediately removed before they have time to harden. Crosses are installed between the tiles and in the corners for spacers.

Drilling holes for faucets and outlets

Cutouts for sockets and taps are drilled with an electric drill or a hammer drill with diamond nozzles. To prevent the working element from overheating, the surface is drilled at low speeds or using water cooling.

When the holes are ready, the tiles can be lubricated with mortar and glued to the wall. The key point of this stage is the clear marking of the tiles for the functional holes.

Trimming tiles with a manual tile cutter in the corners

When all the whole tiles of the row are laid, you can start facing the corners. To make a straight cut, a line is drawn from the back of the tile and laid on the base of the device. Combine the applied line with the wheel, holding the tile with one hand.

Raise the lever until it touches the surface of the tile and move the handle towards you. The cut element should be easily separated by a simple hand pressure. The resulting workpiece is fixed on the glue in the corner under level control.

Fitting from corner to door

After trimming the tiles, continue facing the wall, moving to the doorway. Periodically, the quality of the masonry geometry should be checked with a level.

If it is impossible to lay a whole tile at the door, use the tile cutter again, carefully measuring the width of the tile element.

Cutting corner pieces near the countertop

Curly cuts in tiles may be needed to finish areas near the countertop, around the lower ledges of the toilet bowl and water taps. The easiest way is to use wire cutters for this purpose - the cuts are uneven, but you can correct the flaws with a grinding stone or sandpaper.

Round holes are obtained with a hole saw with a carbide tip or the so-called ballerina. The resulting blanks are glued to the wall, exposing them with a level in one plane.

Laying the second row of the wall

The second row when laying tiles is considered to be the row that follows the base, laid on top of the metal rail. For its laying, the slats are no longer needed - they can be removed, and the remaining smudges of mortar or glue can be cleaned off with a strong spatula.

The installation of the second row is carried out by analogy with the first. Horizontally, the laid tile is checked for evenness by a level, vertically - by a plumb line.

All holes for sockets and communications are drilled with a puncher, performed with a grinder or wire cutters.

Important! You can remove spacer crosses within an hour after installing the last part of the tile. They should be easy to remove with a knife. If the element is firmly seated inside the seam, it can be cut and removed in parts.

Drilling a hole in a tile joint

Attachments and details of the interior decoration of the bathroom cannot be installed without drilling the tile joints. It is necessary to mark the hole for the drill so that it falls clearly in the middle of the seam and does not touch the edge of the tile.

For this purpose, an electric drill or a corded screwdriver with a minimum rotation speed is suitable.

During the drilling process, you should not press the drill too much, allow the drill to overheat and work in reverse mode.

External corner cladding

A neat outer corner will turn out if you file the edge of the tile, giving it a 45-degree slope on a special machine. If there is no such equipment, a special decorative corner will help. It is attached not only to the extreme vertical, but also to the horizontal rows, making the masonry complete.

The corner is mounted immediately with the installation of tiles, partially held by the surface of the tile and glue.

Making a hole for the hood

A grinder with a special diamond wheel will help to make a hole for the air vent. Preliminary it is necessary to take accurate measurements - the center is marked with a cross, and then diagonal lines are drawn.

The first cuts are made diagonally, after which a circular hole is cut out.

Grouting tile joints

Before grouting tile joints, you need to make sure that the mounting solution (glue) has dried well. Next, the remnants of the solution are carefully removed and the grout mass is prepared according to the instructions. It is applied to the surface of the tile with a trowel or a flexible spatula, without lubricating the seams, but as if pressing the grout between them.

Dry removal of excess can be carried out immediately after grouting, and when the mass is completely dry, proceed to wet removal with a sponge or rags.

Ceiling and bathroom installation

It is best to mount the ceiling at this stage - until the bathroom is installed and the floor is not lined. This reduces the likelihood of damage to the enamel of plumbing or tile coating.

Now you can mount the bath and install a box that will hide its sidewall. If the repair does not involve hidden installation of the bathroom, the container is installed last when the floor is completed.

Marking and laying tiles on the floor

The floor for laying tiles should be flat - this is easy to check with a level. If irregularities and other errors are found on the surface, they must be eliminated with a cement-sand mortar screed.

The marking and laying of tiles is carried out in the direction from the visible corner to the hidden one. If the coating involves a certain pattern, the lining starts from the center. It is recommended to calculate the tile so that whole tiles can be laid at the door.

When facing the floor, the adhesive is applied both to the reverse side of the tile and to the floor surface.

Lubricated blanks are firmly pressed into the floor, separating the elements with crosses. The rest of the work - trimming, roughing and final grouting - is carried out by analogy with the walls. It is best to schedule this on the second day of the repair, when the main part of the tile has set.

Facing the bottom of the walls and drywall under the bathroom

The final stage of the cladding is the installation of the lower layer, which was left without decor at the very beginning. Here you can not do without accurate measurements and cutting tiles under the plane of the floor.

Then, a drywall block is installed under the bathroom container, if necessary, this part is also tiled.

Grouting the rest of the wall and niche

When the remnants of the cladding dry, you can carry out the final finishing. Another portion of the grout mixture is prepared and the remaining seams of the bottom row and the box are processed with a flexible spatula.
After the grout has dried over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe tile on the walls, you can walk with a vacuum cleaner, removing small particles of dust between the seams. Cleaning is carried out with a wet method (sponge), and wiped dry with a rag.

Advice! It is better to choose grout for walls and floors to match the tone of the tiles - this will look more harmonious and help hide small flaws in the finish.

Floor grouting

The inter-seam space of the floor tile is processed at the last stage of repair work.

The same grout is used as for the walls, but one important nuance must be taken into account. Since floor tiles have a more complex texture, building mixtures are easily clogged into them. Therefore, the seams are rubbed very carefully, periodically wiping the surface with a dry and damp cloth.

Completion of work and installation of household appliances

The grouting of the floor joints ends the facing work in the bathroom. Now you can proceed to the installation of plumbing and interior design. If the toilet was not dismantled, it remains to install the sink, bidet (if any) and the washing machine.

The plugs are removed from the pipes and all communications are mounted. Make sure that the pipes do not leak, and that the valves reliably block the flow of water. Already after the installation of household appliances, you can hang mirrors and shelves, attach hangers and hooks, for which holes were previously prepared.

If all the work was carried out carefully, and the cladding technique was carefully observed, in a few days the owners will be able to enjoy the updated bathroom.

Masters recommend inexperienced tilers to fill their hands in a more inconspicuous room, for example, in a pantry. After gaining basic skills in handling ceramics, you can begin to repair the bathroom, where the flaws may be more noticeable.

Overview of ways

Tiling step by step video

This video clearly demonstrates the process of tiling a bathroom with tiles:

The tile has firmly registered in the bathrooms of most apartments in our country. The popularity of this cladding method is due to its high wear resistance in conditions of temperature differences and increased condensation. In most building supply stores, tile comes in a wide variety of appearance designs. The only serious disadvantages of tiles remain in their high cost and the complexity of the installation work. To give you the opportunity to save on the call of the masters, you have prepared instructions on how to properly lay the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

Before starting installation work, you should decide on the choice of tiles. Facing in the bathroom requires the use of a material that has flawlessly smooth surfaces and right angles. Experts recommend doing a simple test of tiles for chips or cracks: stack two pieces of tiles next to each other and flip them face down. Pay attention to the presence of gaps between the tiles - if they are absent, the materials are suitable for use in decoration.

The structure of the tiles should not contain bubbles and minimal cracks, representing a smooth, uniform surface. The number of required sets of tiles will need to be calculated based on the size and geometry of the room. At the same stage, you should decide for yourself what size tiles you want in your bathroom and decide on their color palette. You will need to carry out measuring work with a tape measure, determining the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and determining how many rows you need to lay tiles to fully cover the floor and all walls of the room. Having received the exact figures for the required volumes of tiles, purchase in the store for 10-15% of this amount.

The computational work will not end there and will require you to draw a diagram of all the surfaces of the bathroom, including its corners and walls. Schematically depict a plan for tiling them and keep in mind that a large part of the modules will have to be cut by yourself in order to find a place for them in the row. It is better to decide in advance in which areas the corrected tiles will be placed so as not to be too conspicuous.

The tendency of the tile to beat will certainly cause several damaged modules, it is worth dropping them from a height of human growth. Stocks of tiles will cover the possible shortage of material due to its damage.

Installation work with tiles will require you to use the appropriate equipment. If this is not at hand, add the following equipment to the shopping list at the construction store:

Mixer and several containers, like a bucket. Required for the preparation of adhesive and plaster mixtures.
Spatula with teeth. Depending on the size of the tile, take models with teeth from 4 to 10 mm long.
Rubber spatula. It will be required at the stage of grouting tile joints.
Scraper. It will be required when removing the old finish layer, including glue, foam, paint and other materials.
Shuvalsky bucket. Useful for quick and convenient application of a plaster layer or adhesive mixture.
Rubber mallet. Used to gently strike the tiles to ensure better adhesion to the surface and remove excess air underneath.
roller. It is necessary at the stage of preparatory work and is used in applying a primer layer.
Construction knife. Effective tool for fast cutting of materials and strong packages.
Squares. It is recommended to prepare a small one with a length of 10-15 cm and a large one with 30-40 cm.
Level. It will allow you to determine whether there are surface distortions on the measured area.
aluminum rule. It is used to check the uniform laying of all tile modules on the site.
Bulgarian or tile cutter. It can be used to cut tiles evenly, while fitting them to corners and edges of the surface.

Don't forget to stock up on construction gloves and put on clothes you don't mind getting dirty. If you are laying tiles at a height, such as the top sections of walls, wear a hat to protect your hair from getting glue or plaster.

As an adhesive mixture, it is better to use an epoxy variety, which is distinguished by the presence of organic and polyurethane elements in the composition. Such a solution will provide tiles with excellent adhesive properties even in high humidity conditions.

Before you start laying tiles, the surface must be prepared for installation work. You will be required to clean it from dust and dirt, as well as remove the old finish layer, if any. Use a scraper to remove wallpaper, glue, or plaster residue. Having finished with this, you can proceed to leveling the floors and walls, which is a mandatory step to ensure 100% adhesion of the future tile to the surface.

Inspect walls and floors for cracks, gouges, chips, or humps. Any slight unevenness can cause future deformation of the tiled layer. Therefore, use the rule to study the geometry of the wall or floor surface. If any of the listed flaws are found, they must be eliminated by plastering.

The next step is priming the surface using a moisture-resistant mixture that can retain its properties even in conditions of increased condensation. The primer is an integral stage of preparation in order to provide a perfectly flat surface for future laying without traces of cracks and pits that can cause tile peeling. Please note that the mixture must be matched to the specifics of a particular room in order to ensure maximum adhesion of the tiles.

Preparation of construction adhesive does not require much experience, because. manufacturers of mixtures place detailed instructions for use on the packaging of the compositions. You will need to fill the bucket with the required volumes of water and pour the glue powder into it if you bought a dry variety of the mixture. After that, use a mixer to bring it to a thick but plastic condition.

Important! Do not try to change the composition of the adhesive mixture yourself and experiment with the amount of water. Do not try to mix one glue with another for the best effect.

Not all tiles are installed straight out of the package. Some types of materials require preliminary preparation by soaking in water. In the process of being in it, the tile is significantly strengthened and its properties of adhesion to the surface are improved. Water flushes out any existing air from the tile structure, making it more airtight. In the future, this provides the tile with greater durability and mechanical strength.

As a rule, manufacturers indicate on packages whether their products need pre-wetting in water and for how long it should be placed there. If there is no such information, you can check the reaction of the tile with moisture yourself. Put one module under water for 5-10 minutes and check its condition. If the surface is stained, this indicates the accumulation of moisture under the enamel, which will adversely affect the properties of the material. Such tiles should be laid on a dry surface.

Ceramic tiles are cut using a grinder or a special tile cutter after marking the cut line with a construction marker or pencil. First, a small incision is created on one side, after which the tile is placed on the table so that the part that must be removed protrudes beyond its edge. If the incision is large enough, the tile easily breaks along the contour of the table surface when pressing on the protruding part with a hand.

Before starting the installation of the tiled layer, it is necessary to once again clean the surface from any dust, dirt or sand that may clog under the modules. Then you can proceed with the installation of a steel profile that will support the already installed tiles while you are busy laying other modules. Installation of tiles on the wall always starts from the bottom and gradually goes up in rows. With the reverse order of laying the tiles, there is a risk that the exfoliated modules will begin to fall on your head.

The procedure for installing tiles on the wall begins after installation on the surface of the guide profile. Installation of tiles is carried out in the following order:

Using a notched trowel, the adhesive mixture is evenly applied to the surface, as well as to the bottom of the reverse side of the tile.
Attach the tile to the wall and moderately press it with your hand to adhere the material to the surface. Make sure the adhesive mixture is evenly distributed under the module.
Continue installing tiles in the same way until you have completed the entire row to the end of the wall.

Important! Make sure that there are even gaps of 3-4 mm between them, which compensate for the expansion of the modules during thermal exposure. Failure to comply with this rule may result in to the gradual extrusion of tiles to each other in the future. Use plastic crosses to fix the dimensions of the gaps between the modules.

If the row cannot be completed with a whole tile, install a fragment of the module that was previously processed by the grinder. Try to locate this module in an area that is closed from the eyes of the inhabitants of the bathroom.
The work is completed by grouting the joints using a rubber spatula. Try to choose a grout material whose color matches the color of the tile.

Following this guide will allow you to get a neatly laid tile cladding for your bathroom. At the end of the finishing work, you can start filling the bathroom with plumbing or finishing the ceiling surfaces.

Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing rooms with special operating conditions. Such cladding is not afraid of exposure to high humidity, temperature extremes, abrasion load, in itself is very attractive in appearance, easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms - it’s better not to find it. And what is even more important - it is quite possible to cope with the process of laying it yourself.

Why does it make sense to try to do the cladding with your own hands? It’s just that even if the laying surfaces are perfectly even, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of the master as the material itself costs, and this is even at best. Such expenses can be completely avoided. By getting to know our instruction article how to lay tiles on a wall, the reader will have a clear understanding of all stages of work, from surface preparation and tile selection - to grouting. And for sure he will be convinced that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such a finish.

Preliminary steps

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

It is completely pointless to start facing work on an unprepared wall for this. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that a layer of ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the "ugliness" of the surface, and as a result you will get a straight beautiful wall. They are sorely mistaken!

What does the preparation process include?

It is imperative to get rid of the old wall decoration. Will not, for example, hold adhesive tiles on a painted surface. Or even their small fragments are completely excluded. If previously there was a tile on the wall, then after its dismantling, all sagging and drops of hardened glue should be removed.

Be sure to check the quality of the plaster layer, if any. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area, to identify places of instability, which are also subject to removal. And most often it happens that if an exfoliating area is found in one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.

In no case is it ignored if traces of their biological damage are found on the walls - mold spots, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then you will have to carry out a preliminary “treatment” of the wall

There should be no gaps or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate repair work is carried out to ensure their high-quality sealing.

The wall must be flat, that is, it must be a plane, and not a twisted, littered, protruding or concave surface. On the aligned walls, the tiles fit without problems. Yes, there are methods for leveling walls precisely by installing ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not even all experienced craftsmen like to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer has a "debut", but there is nothing to even think about it. It will be much easier to align - and the finish will definitely turn out to be of high quality.

There are many ways to level, and some of them, for example, using moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber plates - are not so complicated and do not require much time.

Prices for moisture resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

How to independently align the walls for decoration?

Do not be afraid of this task in advance. There are many technologies available that are quickly mastered even by beginners. Moreover, the laying of tiles does not require the ideal smoothness of the surface - the correctness of the geometry is enough. are discussed in detail in a special publication of our portal.

Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, so you should also think about reliable waterproofing. To a greater extent, this applies, of course, to the floor, but it also makes sense to provide for walls waterproofed"belt" at least 100 ÷ 200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is desirable to reinforce with waterproofing sections of the passage through the walls of water and sewer pipes, the area around water outlets.

And in frankly “wet” areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to perform waterproofing solid. Approximate dimensional standards for these sections are shown in the illustration:

Finally, the wall must be carefully primed with a deep penetrating compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface, eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to harden in optimal conditions. Achieve the best adhesion performance. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never become superfluous.

If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting for the first layer to dry completely. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after the completion of the preparatory work. But if for some reason there is a significant time gap between this stage and finishing, then it would be desirable to apply the primer again - a day before the installation of the tile begins. So a quality result will be guaranteed.

Wall primer prices

wall primer

Drawing up a project and choosing the necessary tiles

It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will focus only on some practical aspects.

Planning the location of tiles on the walls

Of course, the owners must already imagine what they want to see in the end. Surely familiar with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, they just have to “fit” the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their premises.

Here "by eye" should not be relied upon. The best option is to draw up a graphic diagram for each of the walls separately. Especially if it is not supposed to be a continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or with division into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites that allow you to optimally place tiles on walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own or in a graphic editor, or simply over paper diagrams.

In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will fall on the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case, the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately figure out which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove this area accurately. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the eye of the incoming, such an arrangement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose such an arrangement to start from the center of the wall - aThenfrom it is laid to the edges with the same trimming on both sides.

It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tiles. It often happens that the alignment seems to be optimal when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then there is a wiring to the sides with, again, symmetrical trimming along the edges.

Undercut edges are easy to hide by laying solid tiles from a corner on an adjacent wall. If two cut edges converge in the inner corner, then this can also be solved by grinding one of them. On the outer corners, a decorative corner copes well with this task. More details will be discussed later.

They also show the necessary "creativity" when planning vertical rows. So, the laying does not look particularly advantageous, which under the ceiling will end in a narrow section. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or stretch ceiling.

But it is quite possible to start a narrow section first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will become completely invisible. visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. To be more precise, then this bottom row is generally recommended to be laid out last, so no problems with precise trimming are foreseen. All this will be shown below.

However, other circumstances may influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. These can be features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, it is always recommended to place tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the rim by 20÷30 mm. This will not violate the aesthetics of the installation, and will bring the vulnerable seam out of the most “wet” area.

When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Let this not seem like a trifle: when using not very large tiles, but on a large wall, the difference is considerable.

Excessively thick seams when laying on the wall are most often not required. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting the joints with a fugue, the visual effect of the thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will appear wider.

It is clear that when drawing up schemes, it takes into account the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements. If a fully-fledged plan for each of the walls is constantly at hand, then there is much less chance of making a mistake during the laying process.

Some nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls

With tiles designed for walls, it is much easier than with floor tiles. The indicators of its strength, abrasive resistance, roughness, etc. fade into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.

We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate issue. But some important points still need to be emphasized.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

There is a wide variety of formats available for sale. But you should not immediately chase large tiles. Firstly, it does not look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it, a lot of waste can remain, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, the installation of such a cladding requires a certain amount of experience, and a novice master may not be able to cope with the task - any mistake will be in sight.

If the first independent laying of tiles is ahead, then it is better to proceed from its average dimensions, for example, up to 300 ÷ 400 mm along the long side.

should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
If you plan to cover walls in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for a material marked with a snowflake pictogram - it is not afraid of freezing.
Without fail, all purchased packs of tiles of the same type are checked for batch matching. The fact is that the same article, but released in different shifts, may slightly differ in tone of color. Visually in the store, this is most often not noticed. But after laying on the surface, even a small difference can spoil the overall look.

Of course, they try to purchase tiles of the highest grade possible. Even at the factories, products are sorted, and products with shape distortions go on sale as second- or even third-rate. With them, you can be exhausted when laying.
Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions of the finished product closer to the declared standard. However, the specificity of ceramic production does not yet allow achieving a unique match in the size of all tiles without exception. On the packaging of the tile, its caliber can be indicated - an alphabetic or numerical designation, and a plate with its decoding can be attached.

It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to her, since unjustified savings can lead to unsuccessful finishing, and in eventually the total costs will be clearly “in the red”.

In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to acquire the missing quantity - the desired batch may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with a competent layout and high-quality cutting of the material, this is enough. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the stock can be increased to 15% - there will be more waste anyway. But we note right away that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal mounting without a good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
Feel free to ask the store to check all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged during transportation. Yes, and explicit marriage sometimes comes across.

Even first-class tiles of the same batch and the most accurate caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for facing the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - push it "to the periphery". And the one with the most significant size distortions or with minor defects should already be used for cutting to fill sections along the corners or the floor.
The number of tiles is usually calculated by the piece. This can be done if a qualitative scheme is drawn up. And even more so, you will have to do this when you plan to use several varieties to create a special decorative interior.

But in the case when it is supposed to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There it will be necessary to indicate the area of \u200b\u200bfinishing, the dimensions of the tile and the width of the tile joint. Reserve 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the layout principle.

Repair in the bathroom is rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if it has already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried and tested tiler in mind and a certain amount (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively even, everything should do without much difficulty. But just before laying the tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

It starts, as usual, with the choice of tiles. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So let's check:

From experience it is worth saying that the ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it outwardly, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you'll be tired of running around the shops. What you should not do is to take a tile “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it. Take only what you hold in your hands.

What is the tile on?

Previously, tiles were laid on a cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do this, but it will be more difficult to work. For more comfortable work, use ready-made compositions, they are also called “tile glue” for the fact that the composition contains adhesive components, therefore it is sometimes said that tiles are “glued” to the walls. Compositions are of two types:

in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
in bags - dry mixes that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixes. If necessary, they can correct an imperfect wall by making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain plasticity longer, which allows you to make adjustments some more time later. They work with mastic on an ideal wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions in which there are additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant, it will come in handy if you put it in an unheated room or on the street. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will not allow fungi and mold to develop, which is in demand in wet rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying the tiles on the wall, a number of preparatory activities are carried out. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is highly undesirable to skip it: not every master, not to mention beginners, can normally lay tiles on uneven unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating is removed from the walls and what can fall off. If there are greasy stains, they are removed, or they simply cut off part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden mallet, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. Therefore, you cover all such places yourself.

A flat bar is applied to the cleaned base and it is estimated how smooth or curved the walls are. If the surface of the wall is strongly convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to the level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively even, only too large indents are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or pits) that are more than 5 mm. The protrusions need to be cut off, the pits should be filled with a plaster mixture, the cracks should be widened, moistened and also covered with plaster.

We prime

It is desirable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. Best suited for these purposes is "Betonokontakt" or another composition with similar characteristics. It penetrates a sufficiently large thickness deep into the wall, binding all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, tile adhesive is very well “molded” to it.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. If it’s quite simple, you can lay out the first row immediately from the corner, I’m guided along the floor line. But the first row will become even and without problems only if the floor is perfectly flat, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will cut the tiles to somehow get vertical seams. As a result of these trimmings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall by finding the "start" points.

Wall marking

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tiles that you have to put in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want the whole tile to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turned out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try to expand from the seam, and vice versa. Should come out better.

With the placement of tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In a bathroom, this is often the edge of an installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, position (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. Thus, you will find how you will need to cut the tiles of the upper and lower rows.

Vertically, you can arrange in another way: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be cut. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay the tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. It usually serves as a starting point. This is where the tiling begins.

start line

According to the results of the layout, you have a line where the first row ends. Here at this height they nail a flat bar. Leaning a tile on it, they put up the starting row, and all subsequent ones on it. The first row is installed last, in which the tile will have to be cut.

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support bar, but a flat dry bar can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). In order for laying tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten it often enough: so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check the horizontal position of its installation. Even the slightest deviation should not be.

How to tile on a wall

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

A few points about the whole process. First, in the marked places on the installed plank, the extreme whole tiles (those that do not need to be cut) are glued. When laying out, you marked their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked by a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the tile geometry is perfect, you can also check the verticality / horizontality at the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, with the help of this bar, they control whether each next tile is correctly set.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology, after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

The thickness of the adhesive on the wall

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, there may be questions about how thick a layer of glue is needed. This value depends on how smooth the walls are. If they are perfect, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively even, the "starting" layer can be 3-4 mm. Further, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. Not always glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some masters apply the composition only to the wall, others only to the tile, someone recommends dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for beginner tilers when the solution is both on the wall and on the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly even base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

With another technique, the consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But it is definitely worth listening to the prescribed dimensions of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles, a manual tile cutter is suitable. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are laid. Overlays are attached to the platform, along which the cutter moves. The cutting torch moves with the help of the handle, ripping up a strong covering. On the same handle, a stop is usually installed, with which the tile is broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. In addition, it will not work to make a perfectly even cut, but it will go in an emergency.

If necessary, round holes are cut out using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, so that there is as little dust as possible, the place of work is constantly watered. The result is a perfect hole, everything looks decent.

If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it on a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disc or rod (for some firms, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

If at the same time the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be leveled a little with a file or sandpaper fixed on a bar.

Corner decoration

If the tile is laid evenly, the inner corners do not cause problems. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they do not interfere or break off the protruding parts. In general, they are joined neatly in the corners, and the seam is finally formed using grout.

There are also profiles for internal corners. They are selected to match the grout, installed in a corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, tiles are supported on them. It turns out a finished corner seam.

Outer corners are more difficult. If you just join the tiles by overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly form the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45 °.

This can be done on a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work as a grinder. The first cut, approximately at the desired angle, is made with a smooth diamond disc. It should not have slots and holes, the spraying should also be even.

It turns out not very smoothly, and the outer edge has a rather large thickness. But this is only preliminary processing. We cut the cut to the desired parameters with a grinding nozzle with the same disk. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to mess around with such a pruning, there is another possibility - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another video on how you can arrange adjunctions and seams when laying tiles.

To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing a kitchen apron with ceramic tiles, the technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The place of "start" is determined by the height of the countertop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Fasten the bar at the required level, align it exactly to the horizon, and you can start.

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on a work wall. If this is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

If it is laid out from a small tile, the undercuts may not be very conspicuous. If you want everything to be symmetrical, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

The assortment of building stores pleases with constantly emerging new products designed for modern home decoration. But be that as it may, ceramic tiles do not lose their popularity at all, and remain one of the most popular materials for facing floors and walls in rooms with specific operating conditions - with high humidity, with direct water on the surface, with a pronounced abrasive load. , with the need for frequent wet cleaning with the use of detergents. According to such criteria, this includes bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens, hallways and corridors, balconies and loggias, entrance groups and some utility rooms.

In a word, in any house or apartment, such a finish will definitely find wide application. Therefore, the question is so relevant - how difficult is laying ceramic tiles with your own hands, is it worth inviting a master, or is it quite possible to manage on your own? We cannot agree with the opinion of the authors of individual articles who claim that tiling is a very simple task. Such a finish requires precise adherence to technology, knowledge of many nuances, a certain skill and increased accuracy. However, it does not seem impossible either - so many homeowners have successfully completed the finishing work on their own. We hope that this article will help the portal visitor to understand the basics of ceramic tile laying technology, to carefully assess their capabilities and make the right decision.