Do-it-yourself balcony glazing step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself balcony glazing: tips and recommendations for preparation, step-by-step installation instructions Do-it-yourself balcony glazing
Do-it-yourself balcony glazing - instructions from the master
Repair in full swing and it came to ennoblement of the balcony? Certainly, modern variety in the service market makes it tense. Everyone wants quality and cheap. How about do-it-yourself balcony glazing? Let's figure it out together.
The first stage is preparation.
You can't do without it. It is important that the balcony does not collapse under the weight of the structure, the windows do not fly out at the first wind, and the sheathing does not come off as quickly as it is being installed.
Technical analysis is one of the components of the initial actions. An assessment of the design features, the percentage of dilapidation (accident) of the dwelling - these parameters will allow us to conclude whether the design of the house is designed for the fact that there will be an additional load in the form of glazing on the balcony.
After making sure that all this will definitely not collapse, we proceed to the additional strengthening of the parapet. Depending on the future load, reinforcement is carried out by means of foam concrete blocks or metal.
What material to choose? The answer depends on your goals and technical capabilities Houses. Universal, suitable even for extremely dilapidated balconies, will be metal.
How to do this is detailed in the diagram. We only note that strong metal structure"Ties" the parapet and is able to take on the main load of the glazing system.
If your balcony is strong and wide, then you can use foam blocks. This material also serves as excellent thermal insulation. But such a design requires reinforcement with reinforcement. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be.
After the preparatory work is completed, you can without fear deal directly with what, in fact, everything was started.
Stage two - the choice of design.
Of course, the process itself is not so complicated, given that almost every man, to one degree or another, has little knowledge in the field of construction.
But, when glazing without the help of specialists, you must be prepared that not only “dirty” work is done with your own hands, but also other related work. One of which is the choice of design.
It makes no sense to say that there are standard and non-standard double-glazed windows. This is clear to everyone. But the expected result from the design matters. Traditionally, the division into warm and cold glazing. What is the difference?
Having dealt with the functional load, we will solve issues with the material. Wood, aluminum, PVC. For today, that's all possible options balcony finishes:
- Wooden euro windows have a long service life, so you should not worry that they will rot or dry out under the influence of external factors.
- Aluminum frames are cheap, lightweight and are most often used for cold glazing.
- If we take PVC, then they have a wide range in the field of additional functions - noise insulation, thermal insulation, imitation of a certain style in architecture, etc. Of course, they are heavier than aluminum and are used for warm glazing.
How is the lighting in the room? In addition to frames, it is worth paying attention to glass. You have a sunny side, but on the balcony you want to do game room? To prevent baby's delicate skin from being affected ultraviolet rays, sun protection glasses are used, which by means of special technology covered with film.
How energy saving glass works
Such glass absorbs almost 99.9% of radiation. Or maybe the balcony is the future greenhouse? To do this, tinted glass is used, which prevents the sun's rays from penetrating through the glass and creating a "magnifying glass" effect.
Colored glass, stained-glass windows are ideas for specific styles of both interior and exterior. Well, and finally energy saving windows. At the factory, a thin layer of metal is applied to the surface of the glass, which retains heat inside the room.
Glass, construction, strengthening - all the preparatory issues are covered, the decision is made. It remains only to understand how it can be glazed at all. To do this, we move on to the next step.
Video - what is and what are the possibilities of energy-saving glass:
Stage three - the choice of glazing method.
The diversity is amazing, just look at the neighboring house. What you will not see there, but we focus on the ways.
a) With removal. The internal space becomes wider due to the removal of the window profile (relative to the main fence). The increase is insignificant - 20-25 cm. A window sill can be placed on such a frame.
b) Frameless. In fact, it turns out a panoramic window without vertical frames and horizontal partitions. Lots of light is a plus. The problem with care (for example, washing) is a minus. The design is quite durable, so you should not worry about bad weather.
c) Art decoration. This method is relevant when, for example, we install stained glass windows. It's hard to do without an artist-designer (unless, of course, you have a talent for drawing). Also read the article: interesting loggia designs.
Stage four - installation of the visor.
This should be done before the glazing system is installed, so that later you don’t have to think about how to stick it there so that it doesn’t come off. With the help of ordinary dowel-nails we fasten it to the ceiling.
After the visor is fixed, you can start glazing, but first, anchor plates should be fixed on all sides except the bottom.
Video - installation of a loggia with a visor:
Stage five - step by step instructions for glazing.
Of course, the balcony should be freed from everything that used to be there: chairs, flowers, linoleum, tiles, old trash, and so on. The issue of strengthening was touched upon earlier, so we will omit the description of this procedure.
Installation of wooden windows.
Correct installation according to GOST
Frame installation. The bars that serve as the basis are pre-treated with a sealant (but only the mounting surface). Further, a wooden structure is constructed along the perimeter using mounting dowels.
Window installation. Frames must be glazed, as glass can simply break. Installation is carried out in the following sequence: frontal structure - side elements.
After - sealing of seams is obligatory with the help of sealant and polyurethane foam. When everything hardens (at least a day), you can glaze. But first, all grooves must be treated with silicone sealant. The glazing beads, with which the glass is fixed, must firmly press it to the frame.
Video - how to glaze a balcony with wooden windows:
Installation of an aluminum frame.
Video - how to install an aluminum frame with your own hands:
Installation of PVC windows.
The installation scheme is similar to the previous one, with some exceptions.
- To pull out the window, you just need to remove the plastic glazing beads.
- Installation is carried out using mounting plates that are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- All gaps are also eliminated with mounting foam.
The final stage is bringing the balcony into an appropriate aesthetic state: installation of siding.
outdoor installation requires certain efforts, such as: the construction of fastening belts. There are two of them - upper and lower.
Such structures are built along the perimeter, which are attached to the walls using corners or liquid nails. The bars are connected to each other metal corners. The lower belt should go along the base of the balcony.
The fastening of the siding itself starts from the sides. The screws should not be overtightened, they are located exactly in the middle of the technological opening of the panel. The installation of platbands that hide all the screws completes the glazing process. He simply puts on a strip of siding until a characteristic click.
Thus, carefully examining the technical characteristics of your premises and strictly following the instructions, it is possible to glaze without resorting to the help of specialized companies and saving your own money.
Do-it-yourself balcony glazing - step by step instructions
A couple of years ago I decided to glaze my balcony. I wanted to give it a cozy look, put a chair, coffee table. But without glazing, this was impossible. I decided right away that I would carry out all the installation work myself, because I have little experience, and glazing the balcony with my own hands is a time-consuming process, but quite real.
A couple of decades ago, all apartments had only wooden windows, but nowadays in the modern world there are several options for glazing residential premises. They have different characteristics, composition, and each has its own pricing policy. Therefore, everyone can choose the most suitable option.
Do-it-yourself balcony glazing
Choosing a material
Since I wanted to give my balcony a cozy feel, main task For me it was insulation. Therefore, I immediately stopped my choice on the “warm” version of the glazing. But I will write about each more precisely.
So, there are three types of balconies glazing:
French balcony glazing with transparent mirrored windows.
It remains to choose the option of glazing for your balcony.
The most popular today is the option of glazing with PVC windows, but there are also:
- Aluminum profile
- Wooden windows
Aluminum profile glazing belongs to cold balconies
The option of glazing with an aluminum profile immediately became impossible for me. This type of glazing refers to cold balconies. The material is not heat-insulating - it is used on those balconies that do not need to maintain room temperature. The aluminum profile serves to protect the premises from wind, rain and snow.
However, this form has its advantages:
- Light weight of materials used
- Low cost
- Parallel sliding doors
Balcony glazing - wooden frames
Wooden windows are made from two types of materials. If homogeneous wood is used, then the cost of windows is relatively low. If the material is glued laminated timber, then the price automatically rises and already becomes on average 60-80% higher than the cost of similar PVC windows.
For me, the option with wooden windows did not fit because of the price. Although it is beautiful, but still the financial side of the issue interested me no less. My choice was on PVC windows. A good price / quality ratio, heat and sound insulation properties brought this material to the first places in demand.
siding
In addition to glazing the balcony, I was interested in the option of the outer skin of the balcony. And for this I chose siding. Such material is the most optimal, it is durable, consists of PVC and is not afraid of sun rays, atmospheric precipitation. In addition, it enhances the thermal insulation on the balcony. Siding has a large range of colors, and the manufacturer claims a service life of at least 50 years.
Do-it-yourself balcony siding
Advice! For those who decide to do all the work on the glazing of the balcony on their own, you need to know that it is better to complete the outer skin of the balcony before glazing. This will save time and money. Indeed, after glazing the balcony, it is not so convenient to carry out external skins, and calling the masters who will do all the work with the help of climbing equipment will cost a lot of money.
It is quite possible to do siding work yourself, but if you are confident in your abilities and have skills in such work.
Otherwise, it is better to entrust all work on covering the balcony with siding in apartments to qualified specialists who have professional equipment.
Balcony siding
The instructions for sheathing are described by me below:
- First you need to build fastening belts from wooden beams - upper and lower. In the future, siding will be attached to them.
- We fasten the bars to the wall using liquid nails. They are connected to each other with the help of iron corners.
- We proceed to the installation of siding - you should start from the sides. We do not overtighten the screws, they should be left in the middle of the hole.
- Upon completion of the installation of the siding, we hide all the heads of the screws with the help of platbands
Balcony siding
Balcony glazing
After all the work on the outer skin of the balcony was completed, I proceeded directly to the glazing of my balcony.
Next, I will write a step-by-step instruction with which everyone can try to do the glazing of the balcony with their own hands.
Advice! Start glazing with the installation of a visor - then you won’t have to guess: where to attach this visor so that it doesn’t fall off with the first strong wind. It will be enough to fasten it to the ceiling using dowel-nails.
Glazing of balconies with plastic windows
Installation of low tide and window sill on the balcony
At the end I set the tide with outer side balcony, and installed a window sill inside.
Although I spent quite a lot of time doing all the work, and then cleaning the entire room from construction dirt, I was satisfied. Self-glazing the balcony allows you to save a decent amount of money. In addition, I gained valuable experience and new skills in construction work, and the outer cladding of the balcony with siding pleases doubly. Now the balcony looks perfect from the outside, and this is not only the merit of the siding manufacturer, but also mine.
Technologies and types of balconies cladding from the outside 
How to sheathe a balcony with siding: installation instructions 
Phased construction of a frame for cladding a balcony 
Do-it-yourself balcony in Khrushchev: step by step instructions 
Analysis and types of repairs of balcony slabs
Do-it-yourself balcony glazing instructions
Living in a big city in apartments is associated with a number of problems, the main of which is considered to be the lack of living space. Many owners use the balcony to store various things in order to free up some space in the rooms where they spend most of their time. However, wind, rain and cold do not always allow this. Decide this problem, at least partially, do-it-yourself glazing of the balcony will help.
Types of balcony glazing
The simplest type of construction is the so-called cold glazing. In this case, we are talking about the use of thin single-layer frames, which is why the balcony can only be fully used in the warm season. Such structures can reliably protect against dust, wind, birds and insects (this is subject to correct installation), but they will not help in thermal insulation.
The main advantage of cold glazing is low cost.
A more expensive option is warm glazing. For this procedure, full-fledged frames with double-glazed windows for 2-3 chambers are used. In this case, we can already talk about a full-fledged additional room, in which you can equip a seating area, a small office, a greenhouse and so on. In some cases, the balcony is even attached to the living room after this procedure.
Warm glazing involves the use of full-fledged frames, therefore it is a more expensive option
Also, different frames can be used for glazing:
Wooden frames - classic version for balcony glazing
It is best to entrust the installation of metal-plastic structures to professionals.
Installing frameless windows allows you to create a panoramic view, but requires professional equipment
Important! Before you choose the final version of the glazing, you need to soberly weigh your strengths and capabilities. If there is at least some doubt, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists.
Installation of wooden frames
This procedure consists of the following steps:
Wooden frame glazing
Do-it-yourself glazing of a loggia requires the following tools and materials:
- Hammer, nails and glazing beads.
- Rubber spatula, putty or putty.
- Drying oil and paint brush.
When installing glass in wooden frames, one problem very often arises - the impossibility of installing glazing beads with reverse side blind window on the floors above the first. If the frames are small, then it is better to first put glass in them, and then carry out the installation. But if we are talking about large massive structures, then putting them on a base with glass is not only difficult, but also dangerous. Therefore, installation will have to be carried out from the inside.
One of the main problems of installing glass in wooden frames is the installation of glazing beads on the reverse side.
Installation Guide:
- First you need to moisten the brush in drying oil and process the window openings with it. It should be applied in one layer, but without gaps. After the material has dried (the time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), you can start painting.
- To do this, they also use a brush, which is carefully painted over all the openings, and left to dry.
- After that, putty or a special putty is applied to the folds of the opening, which will close the gaps between the glass and the frame, preventing water from entering and drafts.
- Next, the cut glass is installed in the frame and pressed against the putty.
- Then another layer of putty is applied, but already on the glass itself closer to the frame.
- A glazing bead is placed on the putty strip and gently nailed with small carnations.
Putty performs the main function when fixing glasses
On a note! Carnations must be hammered strictly vertically or horizontally, because driving them at an angle can damage the glass.
Alternatives
Instead of putty, you can also use a silicone tube, which is cut and laid in the same way as putty, after which it is pressed with glass. In addition, you can do without driving nails. To do this, a thick layer of putty is applied to the glass, after which it is carefully leveled.
You can also use sealant. Some people think that it will firmly fix the glass in the frame and it will be impossible to replace it. But there is one secret: before applying the sealant, the glass must be treated with soapy water.
Installation of metal-plastic frames
To remove the double-glazed window from the plastic frame, you must first remove the glazing bead
Important! Even small distortions are unacceptable, since they will subsequently lead to breakage of the entire structure.
Installation of double-glazed windows
Gaskets must be laid in the lower and side inner parts of the frame installed in the opening. It is necessary to lay so that the weight of the double-glazed window is evenly distributed over the frame. One of the edges of the gasket should extend slightly beyond the boundaries of the frame so that cracks do not form on the glass after driving the glazing bead. After that, take two suction cups, press them to the surface of the glass and carefully place it in the window frame. At the end, the glazing beads are hammered wooden mallet, on this do-it-yourself glazing can be considered complete.
To fix the double-glazed window in the frame, it is necessary to hammer in the glazing beads using a mallet
Installing frames and glasses is a rather complicated process that requires experience and certain skills, so if you are not completely confident in your abilities, then it is better to call specialists right away.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 4 minutes
The modest dimensions of most apartments force their owners to use each square as rationally as possible. The most attractive option for increasing the useful space of a home is glazing a balcony. In the process of upgrading it, you can get comfortable spot for a summer vacation or a full-fledged living space, year-round available for comfortable use. Do-it-yourself glazing of a balcony is quite realistic if you have at least elementary building skills.
Glazing types
On the initial stage it is necessary to determine the nature and scope of the work being carried out. Depending on the time range in which it is planned to use the balcony, you can choose a cold or warm option for glazing the loggia.
- With a cold version, the balcony can be glazed using frames with a single glass. In this case, you can create a comfortable room for use in the warm season at minimal cost.
- With warm glazing, window frames include at least two panes of glass. This option also involves warming everything for year-round use. In some cases, the balcony becomes part of the adjoining room, not even separated by a door. There is no need to clarify that glazing a balcony with such an expansion of space should be of the highest quality.
By profile type
Balcony windows may differ, which serves as the frame of the entire structure. They can be:
- Wooden. This type of glazing is the most familiar, affordable both in price and in complexity for doing it on your own. The main disadvantages of this type are that the frames must be periodically painted to protect them from rotting. With warm glazing, it is problematic to wipe the double frames twisted together.
- Made of aluminum profile. Lightweight, durable, reliable, unaffected by the external environment. Cons - you can only glaze the room rectangular shape. With warm glazing, special thermal inserts will be required, since the aluminum profile conducts cold and heat well.
- Plastic. The most popular type of balcony glazing at present. With high-quality insulation of the entire loggia, it allows you to create comfortable conditions there at any time of the year. Metal-plastic windows are easy to operate and maintain, have good indicators of durability, tightness and sound insulation. Among the shortcomings, in addition to the high cost, can be called a solid weight, which will require serious calculations in the design and, if necessary, strengthening the design of the parapet and the entire balcony as a whole.
Frameless glazing
Aluminum profiles, which play the role of a frame in this design, are practically invisible. These frames are very easy to use. But there are also enough shortcomings: very high cost, do-it-yourself installation is almost impossible due to the complexity of the work, poor thermal insulation. In addition, over time, the glass in the structure begins to rattle due to a decrease in the rigidity of the frame.
can be classified as a separate species remote glazing balcony, in which the usable area is increased due to the removal of window blocks beyond the plane of the parapet. Naturally, such glazing requires major changes in the design of the entire balcony.
When choosing an option, one should take into account the design of the parapet: if it is made of brick or concrete, then all glazing methods are available. A simple metal balcony railing will have to be reinforced if installation is planned. plastic double-glazed windows. If the glass is from floor to ceiling, then the parapet is removed.
Do I need to get permission?
Before you start glazing the balcony with your own hands, you need to take care of obtaining permission for these works. Installing windows on a balcony is not considered redevelopment, but is equated to it. Therefore, complications after changes made to the design of the loggia are inevitable. At a minimum, in the absence of the necessary approvals and permits, it will not be possible to sell the apartment. For unauthorized glazing, a fine threatens, after which it will be necessary to legitimize the changes made or to dismantle them.
In addition, an increase in the total weight of the loggia can provoke its complete or partial collapse, which will lead to much more unfortunate consequences. So take care of permission and approval, as well as instructions for upgrading your balcony better in advance. This is quite long and tedious, but necessary.
Stages of balcony glazing
To begin with, let's highlight the general points that will be relevant for glazing a balcony of any configuration with any type of frame:
- The balcony is freed from all unnecessary items. All coatings are removed, up to concrete, dust and dirt are removed.
- In the design of the loggia are made necessary changes. It could be base reinforcement metal frame followed by leveling with a screed. If necessary, the metal parapet is additionally reinforced with corners or wooden beams. And when glazing with metal-plastic windows - even aerated concrete blocks or brick. If a remote structure is planned, then a frame made of metal triangles welded to the parapet serves as a support for it. In any case, one should take into account the loads that the loggia will experience after the changes made, including wind effects.
- Carefully measured window frames. If the frames are made to order with or frameless glazing, then all necessary calculations produced by the manufacturer's gauges. You can only make wooden frames for cold glazing yourself, or limit yourself to buying ready-made ones.
All work on leveling the surface must be carried out before mounting the frames. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to produce them, there is a chance to damage the windows during operation.
It is better to postpone insulation and final finishing until the moment when the balcony is glazed. Delivery and installation of frames may take a certain period of time. Moisture that has entered the balcony at this time will spoil the interior finish and worsen the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation.
Step-by-step instructions for installing wooden windows
Since wooden windows are most often installed with your own hands from beginning to end, we offer you instructions for glazing a balcony using a wooden frame.
Do-it-yourself balcony glazing is one of the works that even a very skilled home master cannot be recommended to do alone. The point is primarily in the strength of the balcony slab: it may simply not withstand the weight of additional structures. Therefore, before glazing a balcony, it is necessary to consult the DEZ, BTI, or, better, call a specialist from a glazing company for advice, and in accordance with his verdict, and make further plans.
The only exception is the glazing of the balcony with the Provedal aluminum profile - it is very light and practically does not give any additional load. But Provedal does not have thermal insulation properties: you will not get additional living space. In addition, you will have to buy a profile for yourself at a retail price, and the installation cost is only 8-10% of the cost. professional work. Considering also that the pros will prepare the mounting elements on special equipment, it will most likely turn out that a home-made balcony-visited will come out more expensive and worse than a custom one.
The glazing of the loggia does not require such careful measurements and strength calculations - its sidewalls transfer the load well to bearing wall. If the house itself is in a satisfactory condition, the loggia can be glazed using any of the methods described below.
But in all cases, at least one assistant is needed - an assistant insurer. Although the described glazing methods do not require steeplejack work (i.e., it will not be necessary to hang from the outside), you still have to bend over and hang over the parapet. So, in addition to construction tool, for glazing the balcony you will need safety equipment.
Precautionary measures
All work on the glazing of the balcony must be carried out with a safety belt. It is better to use a sports one - it is lighter and cheaper than an industrial one. The industrial one is more reliable and durable, but you don’t systematically do steeplejack work.
The halyard of the belt should be about 2.5 m long. Too short a halyard will complicate the work, and if it is too long, if you suddenly fall off, the jerk can be dangerously injured. The halyard carabiner, and the entire belt as a whole, must withstand a load of 400 kg. If the value of the load is not indicated in the certificate for the belt, or there is no certificate at all, such a belt should not be taken.
The safety line must be securely fastened. To do this, for the duration of the work, drive an anchor rod with a metal collet into the main wall by at least 150 mm. The head of the stud is in the form of a ring with a forming thickness of at least 8 mm; stud body diameter - from 16 mm.
It is necessary to screw the stud into the collet until it stops and tightly by inserting a powerful screwdriver or pry bar into the ring. At the end of the work, the head of the stud, so as not to interfere, is cut off with a grinder flush with the wall.
Cold and warm glazing
Cold glazing is made with single panes in lightweight frames. Such a balcony in the summer is suitable for gatherings, and in the winter - under the pantry for food. However, it is impossible to save on a supporting frame for a cold balcony: the windage of the glazing does not decrease, and the glazing frame carries mainly the wind load.
For warm glazing the dew point must not be allowed to shift inside the balcony. Otherwise, the resulting condensate will negate all your efforts to expand the living space, and may cause the entire apartment to become damp. Also, the penetration of the dew point into the space between the panes is unacceptable; on a balcony outside the contour of the building, it is doubly difficult to ensure this. In order to drive the dew point out for sure, four conditions must be met:
- Make good heat and waterproofing of the parapet and floor. Any gap or thermal path from outside to inside will cause condensation to form.
- Use window frames with double sealing and double glazing. If wooden frames of traditional construction are to be used, provide a rubber double seal for the hinged ones, and carefully close the gaps with putty or liquid nails in the deaf.
- It is imperative to provide for adjustable natural ventilation: use metal-plastic windows with a ventilation damper, and with wooden ones in the parapet, arrange a ventilation valve to the outside.
- Provide air circulation between the living room and the balcony: in the window overlooking the balcony, install exhaust fan, and below balcony door make a ventilation grill.
Glazing types
Panorama
made in residential buildings of the elite class. Often glazed from top to bottom. Such glazing is frameless. Along the top and bottom, guides are let in, into which glass enters on special fasteners. Sections of a glazing can be sliding, oar and folding.
The seeming "airiness" of such glazing is actually very heavy: the glass is placed especially strong and thick, with a transparent or tinted coating that reflects infrared (thermal) radiation. Work on panoramic windows balcony requires the highest professionalism with a serious production base and cannot be done independently.
Aluminum profile
Glazing on a special Provedal profile is also often called panoramic: it gives an overview not much worse than frameless. Promedal glazing allows you to make both hinged and sliding windows. Glazing sections are also assembled on the upper and lower rails: first, they are installed vertical racks, and then the frame is inserted into the resulting opening with locks and latches.
The weight of Provedal glazing is no more than 20 kg per linear meter, depending on the height of the section and the thickness of the glass. Therefore, it is possible to glaze hanging balconies with Provedal without preliminary calculation of strength. This is especially important if offset glazing is required, see below. The cost of Provedal on a balcony without distortion turns out to be 5 times lower than metal-plastic glazing with insulation.
Provedal glazing requires exact horizontality and parallelism of the upper surface of the parapet and the lower - the upper floor. Although the latch locks are adjustable, the adjustment travel is only 15mm. Taking into account the increase in skew during adjustment, a deviation from the horizontal and non-parallelism of the supporting surfaces is not more than 5 mm per linear meter. If it is larger, then in terms of labor and money spent on alignment, Provedal loses all its advantages, especially since the glazing is cold.
metal-plastic
Balcony glazing with plastic windows in terms of weight per linear meter - up to 40 kg - is average between an aluminum profile and a supporting frame. In most cases, it can be done on hanging balconies. Windows can be hinged / folding and sliding. Glazing is possible both warm and cold.
Installation of metal-plastic glazing is carried out on the parapet before installing the window sill:
- End, corner and intermediate racks are installed from a 60 mm wooden beam or a special metal-plastic profile. Racks from a bar are attached to the parapet and the upper ceiling with corners on self-tapping screws. Their outer surface can be sewn up with a PVC strip.
- Double-glazed windows are taken out of the windows, otherwise they are easy to split when removing frames. To do this, prying with a narrow screwdriver, pull out the glazing beads - their ends are made protruding before the final installation. When removing the double-glazed window, you need to carefully assemble its clamps.
- The sashes are removed, for which the pin of the upper loop is squeezed out and pulled out with pliers; after that, lifting the sash, remove it from the lower hinge.
- A dummy profile is attached to the bottom of the frame.
- Complete anchor plates are inserted into the grooves of the frame.
- Frames are inserted into the openings, checked for skew. If necessary, level with wedges.
- The frames are fixed with self-tapping screws into the mounting holes of the anchors.
- Insert double-glazed windows and sashes back, mount mechanisms, check operability.
- The grooves are foamed, the window sill is installed, and the final finishing is done.
However, the wind resistance of metal-plastic glazing leaves much to be desired. In addition, a visor has to be made above a balcony hanging at least one corner without an upper ceiling. In this case, the labor intensity of metal-plastic approaches that for glazing on a supporting frame, but without it, the glazing does not perceive the vertical load and may be too heavy. If the parapet of the balcony is also weak, then it must be removed and a new one laid out in half a brick, which further increases the cost, labor intensity, and weight.
Extended glazing is well suited for narrow balconies and for balconies - greenhouses or conservatories. But for such glazing, a strong parapet is required, and with ordinary glazing, work on the installation of a durable visor is also required in addition to the upper ceiling. Therefore, it is better to glaze a balcony with a takeaway with Provedal.
Glazing on a supporting frame
This "Soviet" glazing is very laborious and weighs a lot, up to 80 kg per linear meter. The pipes with corners used for it in the old days quickly rusted and did not look very new either. But now interest in frame glazing is reviving:
- A welded steel frame is relatively cheap, but very strong and durable.
- Her painting acrylic enamel for bathtubs gives the frame a look no worse than that of PVC and reliably protects against corrosion.
- The connection of the frame with a visor or upper ceiling in one piece allows you to distribute the weight load, so that such glazing can load a balcony slab even less than metal-plastic.
- Windows of any type can be inserted into the frames, from Old Testament wooden ones to the same Provedal or solid glass.
- Windows can be made very wide; they only bear the wind load.
- The problem of a weak parapet is eliminated. It is cut off, and the supporting frames are made composite of their upper and lower parts, and the lower one can be made lower than the previous parapet, and such a balcony will look no worse than a panoramic one. The lower opening is easily insulated with plywood or drywall with a foam layer - complex work for insulation on a double crate disappear.
In general, if you have two strong and intelligent assistants, and you are used to working with your hands, glazing on a supporting frame may be the best option: in the end, you will get a full-fledged additional living space for at least 20 years.
The design of frame glazing is clear from the drawings. The drawing at the bottom right (vertical section) illustrates a case where an existing balcony railing is being used. This is possible if the length of the balcony does not exceed 3 m, the fencing bars are straight, with a section of at least 16x16 mm, in increments of up to 160 mm, with upper and lower longitudinal ties and sit firmly in the slab. Otherwise, it is better to cut off the old fence, and make the supporting frames in two parts, as described.
We glaze with our own hands
Sequence of work
If an old lattice fence is used, then its insulation outside and inside and external decorative trim must be done before glazing. Interior decoration with the installation of a window sill is carried out after the installation of window frames. The top of the former fence must be horizontal; otherwise, it is also better to cut it off - alignment will cost more than the lower frames.
If the glazing is placed on a concrete or brick parapet, then its upper surface is leveled to the horizontal cement mortar and make exterior decoration. Insulate and trim from the inside after installing the window sill.
Support frames, tube posts and outside corners
Pipe racks (highlighted in red in the figure) are necessary if the balcony is hanging and without a top ceiling. In this case, they will perceive most of the weight load from the glazing and transfer it to the visor. If the length of the balcony is more than 4 m, then another intermediate pipe rack is needed in the middle of its long side.
The outer corners of the glazing are filled with mounting foam, its excess is cut off and sewn up with strips of galvanized or roofing sheet, on self-tapping screws or welding. Welds are smoothed with a grinder, and the corners are painted with bath enamel, like the entire frame.
Bearing frames are made of steel angle 40-60 mm by welding. The seams are smoothed, the frames are painted with the same acrylic enamel. Paint after stripping with degreasing, like a bath.
The lower frames are made taking into account the skew of the balcony slab; the junction of the upper and lower frames must be horizontal. The top side of the side frames must be horizontal. If the upper ceiling is also skewed, the upper side frames are made according to the shape of the opening, but an additional corner is welded at the top so that the window opening comes out rectangular. The resulting wedge is sutured with any suitable material- plywood, drywall, galvanized.
With a small, up to 20 mm, blockage of the walls, it is better to deepen the sides of the frames adjacent to them into the strobe. If the blockage is larger, work on the balcony should be postponed and the building should be inspected - perhaps it is emergency, and nothing can be done on the balcony.
Visor
A visor for a hanging balcony is a simple design (see fig.), but the most time-consuming and responsible. The canopy should protrude beyond the glazing by 150 mm on all free sides, based on this, its dimensions in the plan are determined. Height - 400 mm. The size of the corner is 40 mm.
Do not try to assemble the visor right away: it is too heavy and bulky. Even if there are three or four of you and you can lift it, you will have to work at the risk of not only your own life, but also the lives of passers-by below.
The visor is mounted as follows:
- The rear frame is welded, and mounting holes for 10-12 mm anchor bolts are immediately drilled in it. The pitch of the holes in the upper crossbar is 400-600 mm. At the bottom, the step can be increased to a meter - the lower crossbar is pressed against the wall, and does not seek to break away from it. But there must be at least 4 holes along the length.
- The rear frame is applied to the wall, set in height and horizontally with a level. Places for bolts are marked on the wall and beaten off upper edge frames. This work must be done by at least three people.
- Mounting holes are drilled in the wall, anchor collets are installed in them. Exactly along the upper edge of the frame, a grinder with a circle 6 mm thick, a strobe 20 mm deep is selected.
- The frame is attached to the wall.
- Slopes and crossbars are cut along the length of the workpiece, their ends are cut to the required angle.
- The slopes and crossbars are welded into the frame, then the outer crossbar is welded to them. When welding, it is necessary to control the horizontalness of the lower surface and the perpendicularity of the crossbars. Crossbars are welded first; their outer ends are supported with a piece of timber with plywood spacers.
- The roof decking of the canopy is being prepared from galvanized or roofing sheet and blanks for sheathing the sidewalls. The seams of the flooring are ordinary roofing. The width of the flooring is with a margin of 20 mm.
- The roof deck is installed; its upper edge is inserted into the strobe. The flooring is attached to the frame by welding along the contour. You need to cook with a 2 mm electrode at a current of about 60 A. Then the sidewalls are also welded.
- The gate is sealed with cement mortar.
Note: the inner edge of the roof deck, placed in a strobe, guarantees against leakage along the wall for the entire life of the deck. When painting with bath enamel, it is more than 10 years.
Pipe racks
Pipe racks are needed if a welded visor is installed above the balcony. If there is an upper balcony above concrete floor you can do without them. Material - steel pipe the same outer diameter as the corner: 40-60 mm.
From above, the ends of the pipes are attached to the visor by welding; for the lower ones in the balcony slab, holes with a depth of 15-20 mm and a diameter of 10-15 mm more than the diameter of the pipe are selected with a core drill. The pipes are finally adjusted to the size in place, with a grinder with a circle for metal. The pipe, tilted, is inserted into the hole and brought to the place by hand; perhaps a little tapping with a mallet. The pipe should not go tight into the thrust - hammering the pipe and pushing it, resting with all your might, is life-threatening! The groove around the end of the pipe in the hole is cemented.
Bearing frames
The upper load-bearing frames are made welded to the size of the window frames with a margin of 10-15 mm in width, and in height - with the same plus the thickness of the window sill. Maximum size for frames made of 40 mm corner - 1100x1500 mm. From a 60 mm corner, you can make frames 1300x1700 mm, but the weight of the entire frame will almost double.
The lower frames, if the old parapet is removed, are made for the remainder of the height, taking into account the skew of the balcony slab for the side ones. Between themselves, with a visor and pipe racks, the frames are connected by welding; with concrete surfaces - self-tapping screws 8-10x150 mm in dowels.
The pitch of holes for fasteners is 200-300 mm. More often it is not necessary to fasten: the concentration of stresses in the middle of the gaps between the screws can weaken the structure.
Note: it makes no sense to use expensive aluminum for TIG welding or self-tapping screws for the frame: the strength drops, and 3/4 of the weight of the glazing is given by windows and insulation.
Exterior finish
External corners, as indicated above, are foamed and sewn up with strips sheet metal. Without foaming, condensate will settle in the resulting cavity, which will lead to corrosion of the frame.
The lower frames from the outside can be pre-sheathed with a metal sheet by welding. In this case, the influx of welding seams is removed with a grinder with a cleaning wheel before installing the frames. The second option for the lower frames is embedding from the inside with plywood or drywall. In terms of strength and reliability, both methods are equivalent.
First, the lower frames are mounted; ebb (teardrop) is laid on their upper surface. The upper frames are first attached from above and from the sides, and only after that they are welded to the lower ones. If you get a gap of more than 3 mm, a strip of sheet metal is inserted into it before welding. Welding is carried out outside. This has to be done leaning over, so insurance is a must. The shelves of the frame protruding inward are welded with tacks, it is possible along the entire length.
Before installing window frames, the entire frame, including the visor, is painted inside and out with acrylic enamel. Before painting, the frame must be cleaned with a drill with a metal brush and degreased with a nitro solvent. Kerosene and solvent for degreasing before painting with bath enamel are not suitable! You need to paint in clear, calm weather to avoid dust settling on the frame.
window installation
Before installing the windows, you need to put in place and attach 6 mm screws to the corners of the window sill. Grooves are cut out under the frame shelves protruding inward in the window sill. Three fixing points are enough for one window section for a window sill: from above, the window sill will be additionally pressed by the window, and from below it will be supported by an internal insulation crate.
Windows in the supporting frame can be installed of any type. Anchor plates for window frames are not needed: window frames are mounted on 6 mm self-tapping screws through the frame to the corners. Fastening step - 250-300 mm. The frames of metal-plastic windows are installed immediately assembled, only by removing the double-glazed windows. Alignment of window frames with wedges when installed in a supporting frame, as a rule, is not required.
After installing the window frames, the grooves between them are foamed and proceed to. As options, you can consider either.
Conclusion
- Two novice masters will cope with the glazing of the balcony with an aluminum profile in 3-4 hours with smoke breaks. The cost of money is the least possible. But such glazing will protect only from wind, rain, dust and leaves.
- Glazing with metal-plastic windows will cost 5-7 times more, and it can be installed over the weekend. On such a balcony with insulation in winter during daylight hours, it will be possible to stay for an hour or two in home clothes.
- For glazing on a supporting frame, two skilled craftsmen with one or two helpers will have to kill half a vacation. You can install it far from every balcony, and at a cost it will hardly come out cheaper than metal-plastic. But in the end, you get a room in which you can live and work for decades all year round. (No ratings yet)
Glazing and insulating the loggia is the best solution for increasing usable area. The question of how to glaze a balcony on your own is solved by several of the most accessible ways: equip the room with sliding wooden or metal-plastic shutters, install double-glazed windows, which will perfectly keep the heat in the room.
The choice of double-glazed windows must be taken responsibly, because. through them, approximately 80% of the heat loss of the glazed loggia space occurs.
The most common methods for protecting the loggia from wind, dust and precipitation are:
- wooden structure;
- plastic installation;
- frameless design.
Glazing the balcony with your own hands using a wooden structure will allow you to isolate the room from noise and increase the temperature in the glazed room.
If the choice fell on an eco-friendly wooden structure, then it is necessary to prepare tools and materials:
- glass of the required amount with a thickness of 3 mm;
- small nails;
- hammer;
- brush:
- platbands;
- polished triangular profile rails with a side of 7 mm;
- timber 50x50mm;
- protective compounds for wooden structures (lacquer, pinoteks or others).
To make a better and more reliable design, it is better to install an additional galvanized visor on the loggia of the required size, which will protect the windows from moisture leakage and add attractiveness to external aesthetics.
Stages of design and glazing with a wooden structure
Initially, it is recommended to get rid of all external coatings to the concrete itself. The surface should be cleaned from dust and other contaminants. After the preparatory work, the first step to follow is the accurate measurement of the opening, the manufacture and installation of a wooden box with a minimum clearance, which will serve as the basis for the frames. This structure is made of a beam, which is fixed at the level of the balcony railing and the top beam, which is mounted to the ceiling and side beams with brackets. The side bars, in turn, are mounted with brackets to the side surface.
The next step is to install the crate of the entire room for sheathing with the selected material. Only after the ceiling, walls and floor are sheathed with their own design (under wooden frames fit wooden panels or lining), you should proceed with the installation of frames with glass. In this case, the glazing method itself can be divided into several types:
- euroglazing;
- simple;
- combined.
Each of the methods has its own characteristics. For the installation of wooden frames, the most common glazing is suitable. It is important to remember that before glazing the balcony, glass must already be installed in the frames. Balcony frames can be purchased at ready-made standard sizes, ordered according to individual sizes or made independently from a profiled wooden beam, into the grooves of which glass is inserted and pressed by nailing with trihedral slats.
The final step will be the careful filling of the cracks with tow or other insulating materials. Then platbands are installed. To protect wooden structures loggias from moisture, a protective layer should be applied 5-6 times.
Installation of a metal-plastic structure
Frames made of metal-plastic appearance reminiscent of a layer cake: plastic, metal, air chambers. Water flows through drainage holes, therefore, freezing of the structure itself and the room as a whole are excluded. Balcony glazing by this method is quite simple. You will need the following tools and materials:
- perforator or drill (with a carbide drill, 8 mm in diameter);
- construction pistol (preferably);
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- putty knife;
- foaming gun;
- mounting foam;
- dowels or screws.
For self-assembly and glazing profile, you must be based on the instructions. When measuring the balcony frame, you should not make large tolerances. The first step is to determine the accuracy of proportions. In order to check the symmetry of the opening, both diagonals are measured, and the difference should not exceed 5 mm. If it was possible to achieve this ratio of diagonals, therefore, the angles should be exactly 90 degrees. Then, when measuring, the technological gap is taken into account (on both sides 15 mm).
It should be remembered that it is not recommended to raise the frame to the upper floor with double-glazed windows already installed, in order to avoid distortions and damage. During installation, it is impossible to leave protruding embedded wedges, since later it is necessary to cut down the protruding ends, which is extremely inconvenient. Spacer wedges during installation are made along the width of the frame.
https://youtu.be/xuQrjJXqx_g
The metal-plastic frame is mounted on expansion wedges, screws with dowels, mounting foam, additional fastening of windows with metal brackets is also provided. Additional fasteners will help to fix the frame with maximum accuracy until complete alignment. After the structure is blown with foam, it must be left closed for 8 hours until completely dry, in order to avoid deformation of the frame.
Frameless way of glazing loggias
This new way, which in a short period of time has become widespread among the consumer. Tempered glass is a very durable material that can withstand heavy loads. The thickness of the glass depends on the dimensions. If the height exceeds 2 m, then glass with a thickness of 8 mm is used. The width of the sash maneuvers from 60 to 80 cm. If desired, tinted glass can also be ordered.
The opening process is very simple. First, the outermost sash is opened with the upper lock (it resembles a floor lamp switch), pulling it, the sash slides out of the upper and lower frames. The sashes are open, then the lower lock, or rather the plastic handle, comes into play.
What is frameless glazing made of?
- glass;
- top and bottom profile;
- upper and lower overlay on glass;
- floor lock;
- lock handle;
- retainer;
- rubber compressor;
- fixing tape.
The fixing tape is necessary for fastening the sashes so that they do not sway and do not beat against each other. It is mounted on the extreme leaf of the lower aluminum profile. The structure is mounted (assembled) extremely simply. Aluminum linings are glued to the glass doors from the top and bottom. Carrying wheels (hinges with rollers) are installed to them. These hinges cling to the glass guide profiles (upper and lower). This type of design is very similar to a closet and consists of the following elements:
- glass, 6-8 mm thick;
- bearing wheels with ball bearing device;
- upper and lower aluminum profile;
- platband;
- sliding device and latch;
- pad;
- bottom latch;
- molding with plastic coating.
As in other designs, upon completion installation work it is necessary to carry out sealing of cracks between the wings. Acrylic seals are put on the edge of the glass, like a cover for skates. They are easily dismantled, then ventilation gaps up to 3 mm are obtained. Rubber seals are laid on the outside between the glass doors and the aluminum profile, reliably protecting the structure from moisture penetration. The gaps between the sashes and the walls of the balcony are filled with sealant to match the color of the profile. The structure itself is fastened together with special glue, without nails and screws. And the most attractive is the hidden fittings.
Almost every apartment has its own balcony. And this room serves for everyone for different purposes: often some make it a warehouse for all the things that are unnecessary in the house that did not fit into the closet or simply interfere in the house, while others store vegetables there in winter and autumn, others do not use it at all . Nevertheless, such use of additional space in the apartment cannot be called rational. After all, the balcony has a fairly large space, why not make it your own office where you can concentrate and work calmly, a small winter garden, a workshop, a playroom for children or just a comfortable place where you can relax. But in order to realize all these fantasies, you need to take care of good glazing and insulation of the balcony. However, easier said than done. Further in the article you can learn how to glaze the balcony with your own hands. To install windows efficiently and quickly, you need to follow some rules and little things. Let's look at everything in more detail.
How to glaze a balcony
In order to glaze your balcony, you first need to decide how to glaze it and in what way. After all, today there are many options. Let's look at them, then you can choose the one that suits you both in price and purpose.
Balcony glazing methods:
- Cold glazing.
- Panoramic glazing.
Cold glazing has been used for many years, but has not lost its popularity even now. Single glass is inserted into the lightweight frame. This is the most cheap option, since you can only protect the balcony from the external environment, but do not insulate it in any way in order to make an office or a place to relax out of the room. The main purpose of cold glazing is to protect the balcony from rain, wind, dust, dirt and debris. To some extent, you can protect yourself from street noise, but not completely. To glaze a balcony in this way, wooden frames and aluminum profiles are most often used.
Advantages:
- the cheapest glazing option;
- creating a cozy space, protected from the external environment, where you can have a good time, especially in summer.
Flaws:
- lack of heat, which is felt in the winter and autumn seasons;
- if you make a frame out of wood, over time it can rot and collapse.
Panoramic balcony glazing is very attractive and spectacular and is often done in elite class houses. In this case, the glass railing is mounted from the ceiling to the floor itself, without the use of frames. Bottom and top guides are installed into which glass is inserted on special attachment points. Thanks to this, it seems to you that there is no glass on the balcony at all, and you are standing in an open space. To make such glazing, you need to use special durable glass, it is stronger and thicker than usual, they are not so easy to break with a simple blow, and they will not crack in severe frosts. By choosing this type of glazing, you can provide good sound insulation. However, it is impossible to perform such glazing on your own, since such work requires professionalism. Glazing sections can be hinged, hinged or sliding.
Advantages:
- beautiful view and attractiveness of the balcony;
- long service life of the entire structure;
- perfectly protects from external factors;
- more light enters the room.
Flaws:
- cannot be done by yourself;
- correspondingly high cost;
- in hot summer time, the balcony will be exposed to direct sunlight even more, due to the lack of a parapet and frames, so the room will be hot.
Sliding glazing is used when the balcony occupies a small space, so it is more appropriate to complete it. Thanks to special roller mechanisms, you can simply move the sashes away, which do not take up much space.
Advantages:
- well protects the balcony from wind, precipitation, dust and insects;
- saves space if you live in Khrushchev and your balcony is very small.
Flaws:
- poor thermal insulation, as the structure is often made of an aluminum profile with one glass, which cannot completely retain heat.
Main materials used for glazing
To perform the glazing of the balcony, the following materials are used:
- Aluminum.
- Tree.
Plastic is the most common material for work, since it is plastic frames with single-chamber and double-glazed windows that are installed to provide heat and sound insulation on the balcony. This material is inexpensive and performs well for the function for which it is intended. Your room will be warm and comfortable. Of the advantages of plastic products, it should be noted the strength of double-glazed windows, good thermal insulation and tightness. By glazing the balcony with plastic windows, you will also save yourself from the need for frequent painting and complex maintenance. Moreover, such a balcony will look quite dignified and beautiful.
Aluminum glazing is performed using aluminum profiles - they are much lighter and thinner than plastic ones. This is its advantage over other materials. Due to their low weight, such glazing frames can be installed on balconies that have a weak structure that is unable to withstand heavy loads. Most often, aluminum is used for cold glazing of a balcony using single glass.
The most budget option for glazing a balcony can be called wooden frames with single glass. Usually cheap wood does not have soundproofing characteristics and can let the cold into the room. However, this can be said about budget option. If you do not save money, you can buy modern frames that are much more expensive, but have excellent soundproofing and heat-insulating characteristics. Moreover, such glazing looks natural and gives the balcony a solid look.
So, having considered all the options for glazing, having learned about the materials that can be used for this purpose, you can weigh the pros and cons in order to choose the option that will suit you both in terms of material and for the implementation of your goals. Now let's find out how to properly glaze the balcony with your own hands.
Some moments
If you live in Khrushchev, then it should be noted that you will not be able to simply glaze the balcony, as you will encounter a number of difficulties. The first of them - when the houses were originally designed, no one imagined that the balconies would subsequently be glazed. Therefore, the balcony was an additional concrete slab, protruding from the wall of the facade of the house, which is simply surrounded by a lattice-fencing on three sides. Frames with glass or other devices that would separate the interior space were absent in such a balcony. That is why, when you decide to glaze the balcony with your own hands, it is important to consider that first you need to install a single structure that would include a frame, opening mechanisms, and a balcony parapet that needs to be sheathed.
All these additional elements Naturally, they will make the entire structure heavier, which, in turn, will put an additional load on the balcony and supports. All this can lead to the collapse of the supports.
Please note that if you live in top floor, then during the implementation of the glazing, work on the construction of the roof awaits you. Such work will significantly increase the complexity of the process itself, and will also affect the weight of the entire structure.
If you have already done all this, or your balcony is glazed with wooden frames that have already outlived their usefulness and have become unsuitable for further use, then they just need to be replaced with new ones. Let's find out more about how this can be done.
Operation Precautions
Before starting work, it is important to take care of your safety. It is good when the balcony is on the second floor, where the height is small. But when you live on the 5th floor or higher, the distance to the ground is rather big. And since the work will be carried out on an open balcony, the wind or gravity can play a trick on you. Therefore, all work must be carried out with a safety belt.
You can buy a regular sports belt, which is both cheaper and lighter than an industrial one. It is clear that the industrial belt is more reliable and durable, but for glazing work there will be enough sports belt, you are not into climbing. When choosing, pay attention to the length of the halyard, which should be a minimum of 2.5 m to ensure comfortable work. A belt with a short halyard will only complicate the work, and if it is very long, then if you fall, you can be injured. It is important that the belt as a whole and the carabiner can withstand a load of about 400 kg. The load value should be indicated in the certificate, but if there is none, do not buy this belt.
Now, after the purchase, you need to provide secure fastening for a safety line. Therefore, for the duration of the glazing work in the main wall, it is necessary to fix the anchor stud with a metal collet, driving it no less than 15 cm deep. A safety halyard will be attached to it. By following basic safety measures, you can protect yourself from serious injury and even death, so be especially careful!
How to glaze a balcony with plastic windows
First of all, your task is to complete all necessary calculations and measurements. Old glazing must be removed: frames and all fastening structures are dismantled. Then take a tape measure and measure the distance from the ceiling to the parapet. Write down the data on paper. Then measure the distance from one wall to another, write everything down. Take the building level and, by attaching it to the parapet, check its horizontalness. Everything should be even.
Now, having all the data, you need to contact a specialized company that sells plastic windows to place an order. If you just want to protect yourself from wind and rain, while there is no particular desire to use the balcony as a room, you can order single-chamber double-glazed window which is cheaper. If the goal is to insulate the balcony so that you can relax or work there, then pay attention to double-glazed windows or even three-chamber ones.
To make the balcony warm, windows alone are not enough. You will have to insulate the entire structure: floor, walls and roof. Only then, in a complex, you will be able to ensure that your balcony becomes a warm place, part of your warm apartment.
The process for installing windows is as follows:
To bring everything to the desired "condition" and give the balcony a more attractive look, you need to make slopes. Please note that all work must be carried out slowly. Follow all the rules and follow the sequence of work. In fact, there is nothing complicated, if you understand and understand what and how to do. By doing all the work yourself, you can save a lot of money.
Video
This video shows in detail how to make a balcony glazing with a takeaway, from the dismantling of old frames and finishing to the installation of new structures:
This video shows the installation of plastic windows on a balcony with a roof device:
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