Instructions for laying metal tiles step by step - two proven options. Step-by-step instructions on the installation of metal tile on special technology from A to Z how to put 1 sheet metal

Installation of a metal tire roof is better to produce a team of three or four people. At the preparatory stage, preceding the direct laying of metal tile sheets, should take care of solving such issues:

1. Place of warehousing sheets.

As a rule, metal tile sheets are placed on the ground in the form of a stack laid by wooden slats. To lay the sheets one to another without any gasket is not recommended, because at the same time their protective coating may be damaged. If the roof has a large area or is too high, as well as with an insufficient number of installers on the roof, the rack for temporary storage of roofing sheets is built.

2. Installation of guides to deliver sheets upstairs.

To the place of installation Sheets metal tiles are tightened by the pre-installed guide (lags). Lagas can serve:

wooden bars;
metal pipes;
steel corner.

3. Rules for moving on the roof.

During the laying, metal tile of installers have to go through it. In order to avoid damage to the roof, it follows in shoes with a soft sole, putting the legs only in those places where the pebble is. When walking along the skate, the foot should be put on the wave deflection, when moving across - on the profile fold.

Laying metal tile

1. Installation of metal tiles start from the place where the roof does not form cuts or beeps and where the sheet can be laid entirely, without cutting.

2. Between the laying directions to the right to left and left to the right there is no difference, the installer can choose any option in accordance with its preferences. The main rule: the capillary groove of each sheet should be covered with a neighboring sheet. The capillary groove serves to remove the water that flies during the rain between the tiles sheets in the forefrenched zone due to the capillary effect. Depending on the manufacturer, it can be placed on the right or on the left side of the sheet. If the capillary groove is located on the left, then when the installation is directed to the right left, each subsequent sheet covers the previous one with the allen in one wave; When moving from left to right - each subsequent sheet is led by the previous one with the same adhesive. If the capillary groove is located on the right side, the laying of sheets are made on the contrary: in the first case, the sheet is put in, in the second - impose.

3. Landmark for laying metal tile is the line of the cornice. Sheets should be filled for it strictly at a distance of 50 mm.

4. Sheets are placed by blocks at the following order:

A) The first sheet after laying is screwed to the crate with one self-tapping screw located in the center.

C) The block thus obtained is finally aligned along the cornice line, after which all sheets, in addition to the latter, completely fasten to the crate.

D) The last sheet is screwed to the clamp elements only after the next block is assembled and aligned.

5. When the roof is laid on the triangular shapes, the first sheet is placed so that its axis coincides with the axis of the skate.

6. It is not allowed for cutting sheets to apply angular grinders (grinder), since such a tool burns their protective coating. In addition, it suffers from sticking chips. Cutting the metal tile should be with a wooden metal or scissors (manual or electrical cutting).

7. When fastening a leaf, the screws are screwed into the flap between the crests of the waves, while the rubber gasket should only be slightly fit.

8. Self-tapping screws, fastening sheets of the lower row to the first bruster of the crates, twist over the step through one wave.

9. For other bars, metal tank clamps are attached from below, if possible, closer to the step.

10. For the side where the end board is placed, the self-tapping screws are screwed into each wave.

11. Roofing sheets are screwed to each brush of the crates.

12. In the zone of the vertical adolescence, the sheets are fasten with each other 5.5x19 self-testers, which are screwed into the wave decline.

13. For one square. M coatings from metal tiles on average 6-8 roofing screws are used. When installing accessories, consumption is 3 self-pressing on one meter mandon on each side.

14. When fixing accessories, the fasteners are screwed into each transverse wave in a step of 35 cm or into the crest of each second longitudinal wave.

15. Damaged areas of the polymer coating metal tiles should be mastered the paint. Often it is provided with a producer for free, otherwise it should be taken care of its acquisition.

Detailed video instruction laying metal tile on the roof

The roof for the house, laid out of the metal tile, it turns out reliable and durable. The process is simple even for a beginner roofer, since this material is convenient in the installation and has a small weight. Before laying the metal tile on the roof of the house, the safety and nuances of the work should be studied.

Preparation of tools and building materials

To mount the metal tile, you need such a tool:

electro saw with carbide teeth;
a hammer;
nippers having a bend by 40 °;
kiyanka;
screwdriver plus nozzles for working with self-draws;
scissors for vapor barrier material;
building stapler plus brackets to it;
lever and spacing scissors;
marker and measuring equipment;
soft brush;
enamel.

From the materials you need to prepare:

metal tile, having a sheet size of 1180x3000 millimeters, and a thickness of 0.5 millimeters;
boards 50x100 and 32x100 millimeters;
wooden bars 50x50 millimeters;
construction 10-centimeter nails;
dobly elements;
vapor insulation membrane;
special tape for cloaking jacks.

When the metal tile installation and installation is made, it is necessary to ensure the safety of work. The easiest way to use a durable rope, which is thrown through the horse. One end to its end is attached downstairs, and the second is tied up around the installer's body. It is better to use professional safety inventory, such as a special belt.

Installation of metal tileage

There are two ways to build a roofing system. It is slightly different. If a warm roof is created, the thermal insulation material is placed in the space existing between rapid legs. When a cold system device, insulation is placed on the overlap.

The technology of laying the roofing of metal tiles provides for work in several main stages:

Preparatory activities.
Installation of waterproofing.
Arrangement of the crate.
Installing elements of endanda.
Fastening adjacent elements.
Installation of the cornice bar.
Installation of tiles.

Preparatory activities

Before laying metal tile step step by step:

Checked rectangles of skates. It is desirable that the difference between the lengths between the diagonals does not exceed 2 centimeters. If this value is larger, then there is a slot skew, and this circumstance will complicate the installation.
Antiseptic processing is performed. Special impregnations and antipirens cover elements from wood, of which the lines of the rafter system consists. After the end of laying the roof material it will become impossible.

Laying waterproofing

Work is done in such a sequence:

First, the vapor barrier membrane is stacked. After drying all the elements of wood, the roll rolls and they are fixed in the corners formed in the places of adjoining adjacent rocks. The waterproofing material is located horizontally along the rafters. The membrane canvases are placed so that the upper strip is above the bottom with a minimum of a 10-centimeter adhesive. The joints of the joints are sized with a ribbon. In order for the membrane in the process, it could not shift, it is fixed with brackets.
The fastening of vapor barrier material using wooden bars, navigating them with nails on top of the membrane to the legs of the rafter.

Arrangement of the crate

The workflow involves the following actions:

Membranes are attached to the edge of the cornice. To do this, along the eaves, one on the other 2 boards of 50x100 millimeters are naked and removed on their surface the edge of the vaporizolation material.
Cuts a doom. To ensure the same gap between the boards, use the temporary pattern made by the template, for example, from the screaming of the board. Over the previously nailed bars, create a clamp made of 32 × 100 millimeters with an interval of no more than 30 centimeters.
Studging cladding is completed. At the skate with each of the side of the skate, they are additionally naked on one piece of the crate.

How to put elements of endanda

At this stage, it is necessary to observe a specific sequence:

Mounted bottom plank. At the inner breakdown of the roofing system at the site of the row attachment the lower bar, which is needed to ensure the drainage of precipitation from the adjacent tile. When installing sections, the minimum of a 10-centimeter nest is observed. The work starts from the bottom section so that then impose on it the upper section.
Installed top plank. After laying the main part of the sheets of metal tiles over the bottom plank, the upper bar is mounted using self-drawing for fixation. The main thing is not to drag them - for this they leave the gap between the material sheet and the bar.

Fastening adjacent elements step by step

Mount Such elements:

Lower Planck. It is attached to the crate with a begging on the bottom end of the pipe.
"Tie". Metal sheet having flames on the edges of precipitation, boat under the bar. This element is directed or up to the eaves to the waterproof system, or to the end, when the slope is large.
Side butt. They are mounted with a society on the bottom of the planks.
Upper Planck. To install it, make a procee on the side planks.
Tile. Around the mounted adjoining layers of the material, moving upwards.
Exterior finish. After completing the tile installation, the external planks are fixed on the screw. Make work in the same sequence as in the case of inner straps. The place where they are adjacent to the pipe are isolated using a bitumen tape.

So that there are no leaks in the future, you need to correctly mount the layers of the adjoining:

First placement is made. The bar is placed on the pipe and the marker is carried out line.
Sliced \u200b\u200bshtroba. According to the marking of the grinder or strokesis, the stroke is cut. Brushed dust from it.
Planks are installed. In the stroke put the drum edge. Another end is fixed to the crate every 25 centimeters with self-draws.
Sealing the place of adjustment of the bar to the pipe. To do this, use bitumen or roofing silicone sealant. After its drying, the adjoining zone is sized with a bituminous ribbon.

The laying of metal tile on the broken roof is associated with some additional difficulties, they are explained by the presence of internal junctions between adjacent rods, so in this case, to ensure tightness, adjoining walls and ventilation channels are performed, an internal apron is made.

Installation of the cornice plank

Before putting metal tile on the roof:

Mount the holders. Fastening for drainage gutters mounting the lower handwheel. Sometimes the cornice bar is installed without them, for which short holders use. They are not mounted on the crate, but on the windshield.
Installed cornice planet. Her lower edge is fixed so that he captures the attachment of the holders. The upper end of the plank is fixed by self-pressing on the first of the shell boards at a distance of 30 millimeters from its longitudinal edge. The cornice bar is mounted on top of the holders.
Playproofing is placed. The edge of the plank is sampled by connecting tape SP-1. The vaporizolation membrane is removed on the edge and attach to it.

How to put the roof on the roof of solid sheets

In order for the roof for a long time, you need to know how the metal tile on the skat is located, for which you can use the detailed instructions.

The process of installation of a solid leaf of the size of the skate to the cornisic strip involves the following type of work:

Material is prepared. The sheet is placed on a flat surface and with the help of the marker is scheduled to the cut line. With the help of hand scissors, and better power tools, the sheet is cut according to the markup.
Coloring shingles color. Material is necessary to protect the maximum from corrosion processes.
Talking and attached the first sheet. You need to know correctly. It needs to be lifted to the crate and align relatively skate and edges of the skate. When the task is solved, how to set the first sheet of metal tiles, the material is fixed on the crate with self-drawers using EPDM gasket. Fix the roof covering in a place where the wave is omitted and adjacent to the crate as much as possible. Self-tapping screws in a chess through the wave.
The rest of the lists are attached. After the first sheet, the installation of the rest of the material is proceeded. The second and the subsequent sheet are placed in such a way that the Metal tile moves are observed - their edges must be found under the fragment laid earlier. Thus, the previous sheet is over the next after it.

In addition to solid sheets, they often use their pieces. First, the first row is mounted, and then the second row is placed on top, observing the 15-centimeter science. It is only necessary to know, in this case, so as not to spoil the material.

Safety technique

When laying a metal coating for roofs, it is necessary to comply with all safety requirements:

Roofing sheets raise height exclusively by inclined guides. It is impossible for a person to be at this time under them, since this zone is dangerous for life.
Moving tiles using a cable hooking is prohibited for an object whose height exceeds one floor. Perhaps the uncontrolled swinging of sheets in the event of a wind gust.
Working with metal tile is allowed in gloves to not be injured with sharp edges.
Installation and climbing tiles can not be done alone. The master should help 1 - 2 people.
The roofer when working at the height you need to use the safety belt and the cable.
Before laying metal tile on the roof, it is necessary to make sure that the roofing lamp is fulfilled.
The installation of roofing is carried out in windless weather.
It is necessary to move on the tiles sheets when making the installation is necessary above the clamp carefully, putting soft shoes and advancing the wave deflection.

Errors when laying metal tile

Beginner roofers most often allow the following errors:

Mounting snowstores self-drawers for mounting metal tiles. A similar error leads to the fact that under the weight of the snowy mass, snow feet tears. Usually, the set to these items at the rate of each section includes about a dozen self-tapping screws M8 × 50. Fasteners with a smaller diameter used to lay tiles should not be used. In the event that the roofing material sets the wired team of installers, the owner of the house needs to check the work done. The fact is that often workers for fixing snow-holders involve roofing screws, since they do not want to change the nozzle on the screwdriver.
In places of adjustment of roofing to chimney, the gap remains. This lack of development leads to the penetration of moisture inside the roofing cake. By walking around the pipe, it is necessary that the wall profile and sealant are on the same level with an external apron, which must be made as tightly adjacent to the surface of the chimney structure. With incorrectly completed installation, for example, in the case of using bitumen scotch, the elimination of the problem will be temporary. Similar sealants as a result of a constant temperature drop over time will be departed, and the gap will arise.
The presence of gaps at the site of the tile adjuncing to Endow. As in the previous case, the appearance of large slots is the result of a negligence attitude towards its work of roofers. Such errors lead to the mandatory sediment penetration inside the roofing pie, which significantly reduces the service life of the roofing structure.
The occurrence of corrosion processes on the cut line. The reason for the appearance of this disadvantage is cutting metal tile with a cut-off disk for metal work. This error is most often allowed beginner roofers who do not want to acquire a special tool. The process associated with a sharp metal using a disc rotating with a significant speed is completed with overheating of the polymer coating that protects the tile from corrosion. As a result, the sheet in the place of the cut begins to rust, while the coating gradually disappears.
The curvature of roofing material as a result of storage. If the tile was purchased in advance and laid in the stacking wrong, the sheets can be twisted. As a result, with styling and leveling, metal tiles will have difficulty. This work will need to spend a lot of time, and perhaps the material will have to acquire anew. So that the tile is not exposed to deformation, the height of the stack for its storage should not be more than 70 centimeters. If the material is stored for more than one month, the stacks disassemble and shift them in the reverse order.
The self-tapping screws were pulled or not mety. A similar error is usually allowed novice installers who have no appropriate experience. When the self-tapping screw is not screwed, the water and the corrosive process will not be able to penetrate into the hole. If the fastener is pulled, the protective coating will be damaged and corrosion of metal will occur in this place.

After the construction of the entire rafter system, the question arises how to put metal tile on the roof? First of all, you need to make a control damage of roofing. After determining their rectangle, it is necessary to correct all defects or errors by hanging the rods. You can also hide the errors in goodbye elements.

The roof sheet length can be determined by the height of the skate and the size of the sink. When the slot length is more than 7 meters, then the leaf will be better in the best way to a couple of pieces. We produce laying, using a total of 15 cm. The use of long sheets will almost exclude joints, but they are harder to mount. The width depends on the type of tiles used.

Permanent temperature changes produce condensate on metal tile. Couples rising from the premises, also becomes water. Because of what is happening, the thermal insulation layer is wet, and its quality is lost. Increased moisture will bring only the harm of the entire design of the roof. Because of it begins to rot the tree, the roof freezes.

In order to avoid such cases, it is necessary to put the heat insulation of the waterproofing film to top, and from the attic side, such a function is performed by a layer of vaporizolation.

Also in order not to be excessive moisturizing of all design elements need to make a natural roof ventilation. The air should freely go under the roof from the cornice to the skate. For such purposes, the gap between waterproofing and metal tile is organized.

In this article

Working tools and materials

For the work of the roof of the metal tile, you will need the following items:

Screwdriver and electric drill.
Roulette for measurements.
Hacksaw and scissors for metal.
Electric power supply.
Eaves and wind strap.
Endow Planck.
Konk.
Metal tile.
Ventilation passages.
Hydro and vapor insulation films.
Sealers.

Hydrotherproofsolation

For waterproofing, a special membrane film is used. It acts so that the moisture from the roof does not fall through it, and the pairs from the premises passes freely through the membrane. Its laying is produced on rafters and under counterball. Logs or galvanized nails are used as the attachment.

Out of the room lays the waterproofing film with an absorbent coating. She will not give to appear moisture at the bottom of the metal roof. Bowl of waterproofing is available in roll materials, which makes it easier to install.

For heat insulation between the rafters lay the layer of insulation. His attachments are made using brackets and construction stapler.

Okeekhet

For a reliable roof from metal tile, the facility will be required. It is performed from a bar with a cross section of 50x50 or a cutting board of 30x100 mm.

The lamp is erected by the following plan:

The layer of waterproofing to the rafters is attached by bars a counterbalax. And the doom itself directly to them.
Fastening 1 timber is made from the cornice. It should be 10 mm thicker from others.
300 mm Normal distance to middle 2 bar.
The step of the following bars is up to 40 cm.
If attic windows or chimney are present in the design, there is a solid doomer around them.
Skate bar need from 2 sides to hide a skate bar.
The end planka always rises to the height of the wave.

Nuances fasteners

Molding metal tile is produced by special Samores 4.8x28 mm. In order for fasteners to be sealed, you need to put the rubber gasket under the self-sufficiency. Making twisting is best perpendicular. This is performed so that the gasket is compressed evenly. After all, with a versatile twin screw insulation, there will be no waterproofing.

When fastening sheets of tiles, you need to drive the screw between the waves in the middle. With the proper layout of the crate, screw the screws in any place.

For such purposes, there is a steps of a shave, in which there are plaques of the same thickness and widths, the distance between them is also the same. It equals the step of metal tile.

Device Plank Cornise and Lower End

Plank cornice performs important protective features. Perform it from galvanized steel and begin to mount from the front board. First, the hooks for the drainage are installed on the eaves, and the plank is attached on top of the screws.

From moisture, the space under the roof protects the Lower Endow. Its installation is produced on negative corners in the joints of the skate joint. It is done before the metal tile filling on a solid crate.

Laying Metal Accounts, Methods

The main thing when installing the tile is the beginning. After laying the first sheet, you can move in a comfortable side. It is good when the length of the scope of the broken roof is covered with only 1 sheet. With this variant there are no joints and difficulties with them. But the long sheet is well suited for a double roof, and in other options there will be more waste. Since metal tile has a drawing with a direction.

Also, when using long sheets, it is mainly necessary to maintain their integrity. After all, when transporting or when it is approaching the roof, they can be easily damaged, and this will not lead to anything good. Each sheet lies on the wave of the previous one and at the same time the parallelism of the cornice line is observed. First, the sheet is leveled with already laid, and then fastens with it. When installing 4 sheets, the entire block is leveling and attached to the crate.

The presence in the block of more than 4 sheets will add difficulties in alignment and fasteners. Fastening is made in a checker order.

The service life of the roof depends on the quality of the screws and their gaskets. For this, most manufacturers are offered with sheets and selflessness. So you can safely acquire these elements.

When making screwing, you need to use the adjusted screwdriver. Always pay attention to the power of compression so as not to damage the material or gasket waterproofing.

When you cut roofing material, it is not recommended to use a machine with a cutting circle. Because when using it, you smear a special coating of roofing material, which will result in corrosion and a small service life. In such cases, it is better to use scissors for metal, hacking or an electric bike. The edge of the sliced \u200b\u200bsheet is necessary to lubricate the paint to also prevent the appearance of corrosion.

Top Endov and other elements

After all, the upper endow is attached using self-tapping screws. You need to start at the bottom and continuing all the flashes. Its presence will give a normal type of joints.

The final stage is the fastening of additional elements. On the end board, the end plank is attached at a distance of 60 cm. There must also be a leaf of at least 10 cm. At the skate from the end they put the plugs, and the horse itself is fixed with self-drawing into the upper comb.

When complying with all nuances of installation and installation of the roof will serve for an indefinite period.

Watch the video on how to properly put metal tile on the roof.

Metal tile has long become one of the most sought-after roofing materials. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals will be able to put it. In fact, the situation is different - with due diligence, any neat person will cope with this work.

Where to begin?

Installation of metal tiles begins with careful preparation for work. The first thing is counting on the exact need in the material and repel from this, of course, from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as closely as possible. The cutting of the material on the necessary fragments is made by an angular grinding machine, but without an abrasive circle - it damages the tiles too easily. Former roofing pie should be removed without a balance, because the rafters are not designed immediately into two coatings; On this preparation for laying as a whole ends, except for tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

To put metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them off according to the exact sizes using metal scissors. Sizes lifting and comparison with them requires the use of roulette. To climb the roof, it is extremely important to use a strong staircase or a swirling. The mount is performed using an electric drill and a screwdriver. From hand tools you need a hammer, a black stationery marker, a wooden rack of a long length. When working, mittens and glasses from durable plastic are used.

You also need to stock such components as:

boards guides;
slats for the roof;
waterproofing material;
tile itself;

aeroorolics;
end and skate slats;
decorative lining;
self-tapping screws with washers;
board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

Types of roofing and elements

Its features are the calculation of the necessary elements for a bone roof. Suppose its dimensions are 8x5 m (by rope). The counting of the required number of sheets is determined by dividing the length of the unit slope to the width of the sheet. Here is meant the working width along with the allen, and not the one that is obtained when measuring tape measure. It is recommended to round the resulting misuse of always in the most side and take into account that one of the sheets can share equally and apply on two slopes immediately.

The simpler roofing (especially the configuration of the skates), the less the tiles will go into waste.By increasing the length of the sheets, you can cut the magnitude of the overlaps. But it turns into a complication of work and heavier transportation for which a lot will have to pay. Judging by the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 p. M, it is desirable to divide the sheet into parts. The overheet of at least 0.15 m, if the slope is steeper 25 degrees, and not less than 0.2 m, it will be if the roof is more common.

Laying of tiles on a warmed roof meant:

waterproofing film;
one or more ventilation gaps;
vapor barrier.

Special brackets are used for fastening films; The layer itself, protecting moisture, can be permeable or impermeable for steam. The passage of water vapors is obligatory if there is a cold attic at the bottom, but for heated residential attic it is no longer so significant. But the ventilation under the layer of the roof should be ensured. If you do not mount it, the condensate inevitably appears at the bottom, and the preservation of the house designs cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as well as under the metal layer on the roof, the joint venture

Such membranes are one-sided, and the party that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to perform work on the improvement of ventilation and antenna exit in a close bundle among themselves. Usually the upper part of the antenna outputs are cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the size of the racks. In the passing elements, the output of the ventilation pipe is output, which should be kept with self-draws. To bind the outdoor part of the drawing with the air duct in the house, a corrugated pipe is useful; To fix this pipe in a predetermined position and sealing the connection, adhesive tape is used.

All these measures will enhance the quality of the insulation, but it is necessary to deal with its suitable type.

One of the best options is the mineral wool, since it is:

does not burn;
good extinguishes the steps and blows of the rain drops on the roof;
mechanically durable;
stably maintains valuable qualities for decades;
mounted with your own hands without any problems.

From the side of warm rooms, cotton insulation must be thoroughly protected by a vapor barrier layer, because their permeability for water vapors is high.

Having understood with insulation, you need to figure out the details of the Endament device. All the berthings are laid below the insulation layer, and to keep the cut sheets, they will need screws. No less significant than Endow, pass through the roof of steel pipes and chimneys. If the smoke tube goes through a warmed roof, it will be necessary to put a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roofing isolation, create a ceiling lamp.

Qualified professionals allow this problem, building a special box surrounding the pipe output to the top. The box itself necessarily hides from direct contact with the chimney. For insulation, mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass is used. What geometric form will be this node is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round or square. Metal and cement make mainly design in the form of a circle.

It is forbidden to bring the pipe to the outside through Undov, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their compound.

Any chimney pipes are necessarily supplied with protective umbrellas.

When forming an external apron, waterproofing materials resistant to high temperatures are used. Ceiling openings around the steel chimney will be needed to close the insulating barrier or a box, this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs. Instead of a flush to protect the main array of material from overheating, vermiculite or clamzit is sometimes used. But the traditional way using basalt wool is more practical and safe.

When withdrawing any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary transverse beams are put. Withdrawing the pipe in the already created roof, the connections are processed by sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and take condensate, a gutter for drainage is useful. Optionally buy it, such a thing can be done with your own hands. Round chimneys are mounted with steel brackets, while there are always gaps for thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tile, but also the practicality of the use of the roof, its properties depends on this. The slope changes - and immediately the other becomes the susceptibility of the house to precipitation and the wind, changes the life of the structure. You can calculate the necessary slope in size, if you use the formula of the form x \u003d h / (1 / 2L). The height here is the interval between the overlap and the skate, that is, the growth of the rafter, and under the length is meant the width of the house.

In order to recalculate the bias of the roof into interest, the result will remain only multiplied by 100. The elementary trigonometry (Arctangent) will help to translate the calculated digit to the degrees. According to this scheme, you can find out the necessary parameters for the roofs with one slope, but then you need to consider the entire length of the span. When the skates are uneven with each other, the distance is counted from the projection of the skate to the overlap, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

If the device is very complicated, there are many drops and relief parts in it, impose amendment relative to horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) bias can be used only in an ideal situation when the impact of snow and rain is obviously excluded. The level of load from the wind transmitting the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not go down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most manufacturers of metal tiles, the normal operation of the roof in winter conditions is guaranteed only when there is no less than 14 degrees.

Owning the parameters calculated or indicated in the accompanying materials are not recommended, because it will lead to an increase in the cost of material, increasing the sailiness of the roof created and drainage difficulties.

But the maximum flat roof has its own minuses.

After all, a small tilt does not avoid seeping water through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so you will need to take additional measures.

In winter, there will be more problems with cleaning the roof from snow - If this is not done or not enough, it may fail. At small angles, the inclination is a heavy case, attach to it the details will be more difficult. And one more disadvantage - it will not work out the attic or the attic of a large area.

If you consider pointed roofs, other difficulties are detected here. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will crawl down. But heavy metal tile can repeat the same maneuver and have to strengthen the mount, attach each element to the crate as much as possible. Extreme converge - both insufficient and with excessive steepness it will be necessary to put more sheets. Therefore, the angles at 11 and a 70 degrees are rather theoretically possible than realizable in practice.

For a single-table roof, the most practical value is a corridor from 20 to 30 degrees, and for a bartal second digit can reach 45 degrees.

When the outer circuit is selected and the form, it is time to deal with the sling nodes.As a Mauerlalate, a ram from coniferous wood in the form of a square is usually taken, its side is 10 or 15 cm. The Lenzne cross section must be exactly the same, this item is placed at a right angle to the bearing walls. A triangular roofing design is assembled from the rafting legs, which takes on the main blow of the weather element, so its creation needs to be paid special attention. Additionally prepare racks directed by vertical designs, thanks to which the compression from the skate is evenly divorced by the carrier walls.

The length of the ribs at the racks are not determined by standard standards, but performing special calculations.

In addition to them, the tightening is equipped - these are horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs to move arbitrarily under various loads. But tightenings are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have a solid support, there is no need for this element at all. The redistribution of bending loads from the skate assemblies is carried out by the pump. As for the crate, it is made from wooden boards, timber placed at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the harrow feet, and enhances the overall rigidity of the roof.

In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

horse (the right junction between the skates);
svez - a detail that extends to the contour of the bearing walls by 40 cm and interferes with moisture to penetrate their surface;
falkets - replace Sve, if the ends of the rafter do not allow it to do.

As for the choice of the number of skates, it should be done not only by aesthetic considerations.

So, single-sided roofs apply only where the attic will not be on small houses, above the porches and extensions, over the economic structures.

Tent differ from the usual bounces that the frontones seem to be cut under the tilt over the entire height.The semi-walled roof is similar to the tent, equipped with the same four slots in the form of a triangle, but the frontones are closed only partially. If the main part of the construction is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as cones, two-piece and so on, there are much less frequently than double and single-sided roofs.

Calculations

When looking at the roof of metal tile, it is found that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, with lines directed perpendicular to the slant plane). The gap from one row to the other among the roofers got the name of the wave. When the tile sheet is 350 mm and six waves, it is called the module. Typical proposals of the Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. You can choose individual dimensions, but then the total cost will be much higher.

It is important to remember that for technical reasons, the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and is 700 cm longer, and all the waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble on the skate.

Considering the desired number of modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be spent on the roof of one roof. In addition to the main material, the steel stripes will need (each 200 cm long) and the sheets of steel 200х125 cm, painted in the same way as the tile. The minimum angle of inclination is 11 degrees, and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the supplied planks are designed to roof with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value is different, they are customized according to individual requirements defined in the scheme.

Installation methods

Select the appropriate type of roof and carefully calculate its parameters - only half of the solution. It is important to find out how best to put metal tile. This is a reliable material, but if an error is allowed when laying, after a few months it will be necessary to redo all the work. There are two time-tested installation options: one row and several rows simultaneously. Regardless of the selected path, 2.3 or 4 sheets are collected in the block, attaching each other for short screws.

Then they attach them to the crate, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to twist the block around the central screws, aligning the laying of sheets for their optimal exhibition. If the installation is selected by one row, the very first sheet becomes the guide for the entire band. It is aligned on the eaves and ends of the skates, and for greater amenities they will be attached to the selfsel need from the skate. The second sheet is required to put on the left in the first one.

Then these were joined together with a screw:it is introduced on top of the wave under all transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks from a pair or two pairs of sheets. To note: the final sheet is not attached to the base, until the next package of metal tiles is crushed. Installation in several rows is significantly different - work on the right left, but still the first sheet is flattering, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second fragment of the metal tile must block the first, and they are attached to the overall self-tapping screw in the middle of the sheet.

The joint between parts of the coating is clamping with screws that are introduced into the vertex of the wave. The third sheet of the row is set to the left of the first. To cover the roof it was more convenient and easier, it is worth starting from the side where there are no squeezes and sections, other roof details that would require cut the sheet. We put the material, moving towards oblique skates or to the separating rods of Undova. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are associated with short self-drawing, but they do not bond to the crate (after all, it will be necessary to adjust the geometry of the laid out block).

Detailed work guide

Briefly familiarized with the device roofing from metal tile and with the installation of it, it's time to find out how all the work should be performed in stages. The design of the roofing pie is different depending on whether the insulated or cold roof is separated.

Chernovo finish

Apart from the most facing layer, over the warm attic consistently (from top to bottom):

clamp;
counterclaim;
driving water membrane;
layer of fire-resistant insulation;
steam barrier;
substrate.

For cold attics, the device is easier - there is no need for insulation and restricting the movement of steam.

The lamp is made from a bar of 5x5 cm, an alternative to him is the boards 3.2x10 cm.In both embodiments, the designs are joined by Brusseckeetes held by the rafters. Thanks to the counterclaim, the mechanical connectivity of pie parts of the cake is not only ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. And therefore, the risk decreases with the accumulation of condensate.

Making a monolithic flooring from a tree under metal tile is impractically, because parts of the crates are mounted through the gaps of 35-40 cm. The exact value is determined by the wave step. Where the suspension and eaves are located, the milking flooring is made of 14-15 cm wide. Previously, any piece of wood should be impregnated with antiseptics and protection against fire. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or the film that the pairs should miss, not to collapse under the action of ultraviolet and serve for a long time.

Waterproofing is mounted exclusively in dry weather. If it rains, it is better to postpone this matter to a more convenient point.

Rolls rolled over each part of the roof, put it with a mustache, moving across rafters. Staying in the cornice begins, and ends on the skate. Low blades of waterproofing are summarized to frontal boards of eaves. The exact filament of the film is determined by the angle of the skate, but the minimum value of its minimum is 70 mm. To make joints hermetically applied scotch and dispersion materials.

A common mistake is to use flammable insulation, hoping for special flame prescription impregnations.

Only those materials that themselves are not ignited without additional processing should be applied. The thickness of the insulation is chosen by conducting a special heat engineering calculation under the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation, it is from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to slab heaters from leading manufacturers, they are most reliable and safe.

Laying the plates is made inside the rafter into the spacer, their fixation is performed without additional fasteners, because such designs are elastic. The choice of vaporizolation is also responsible, and the focus is on density and the level of permeability for water vapor. The inner cover is made from the boards or GLCs, this work is embarked after the end of the installation of other layers.

The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 square meter. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and building rafters.

Both cold and warm roof from metal tile is equipped with noise insulating material - it is put on the crate or solid layer, or in places where the facial coating will be attached.

If the bias of the roof ranges from 14 to 20 degrees, the rails can be placed relatively rarely.And when a steel thin strand is placed on top, it is prepared in an inseparable cutting of edged boards. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step decreases to 1 cm. Hook the rails for a counterbalable to the rafter feet required with galvanized nails. They are driven every 30 cm. Prepare waterproofing, it is necessary to use membranes, effectively overwhelming condensate occurrence, safe in fire and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

To attach water-protecting membranes to the legs, construction staplers are used. Over the waterproofing, layers of crates and counterclaims are placed. From fibrous thermal insulation materials to a layer of waterproofing, leaving the gap filled with only air. To form it, on the edge of the rafted 1 cm from the waterproofing, driven nails and stretch the grid, to make the best of the cord. Help the walls withstand the mass of the roof and additional load (wind, snowy, ice) can be a concrete screed. When the upper floor is great, it is done on all carrier walls, not limited to external planes.

An additional strengthening of structures is achieved at the expense of concrete columns derived from the foundation, as well as at the expense of backups for beams holding rafters.

The planes of the slopes are perfectly exactly, and if defects are detected in them, they should be placed by the plane. Strong damaged items should be changed. Working with rafters is required after each manipulation (especially when the diagonal of the skate is displayed) to check their geometry with a construction level. Noticing the breakdown, it is cleaned with the help of additional elements.

It happens that the skate (between the skate beam and the eaves) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and the docking of them is carried out. The old coating from the rafter is removed completely, and graduating disassembly, the rafters themselves and the crate are checked very carefully so that everything is whole.

When preparing for any roofing work and in the process of the very layout of the metal tile, it is impossible to facade, close the fronton and perform other works.

Such "time saving" is irrational and turns on only additional losses.

The gap between the bars of the crates should be done in accordance with the instructions of manufacturers, but not less than 0.6 and not more than 0.9 m. Before work, carefully assess the coincidence between boards or bar, because the blocks differ in size and configuration may damage the roof covering . Putting a cornice, you should put the extreme board of the boards so that it does not speak for it. You can not use the details thinner 150 mm to ensure the strength of the rafter and compensate for the uneven planes. The membrane film put on top of the crates is unacceptable to attach with nails or self-tapping screws, only tapes apply.

Having finished with cornice planets, they are engaged in drainage. It is best to buy a special system from a supplier metal tile to avoid compatibility issues. The first step in the installation will be fixing brackets that hold the gutter. Immediately engage in the installation of ventilation grilles on the eaves. As soon as this is done, the preparatory stage of the work can be safely considered over.

Laying final material

The technology of fastening metal tile is much easier than any preparatory work. But it has its important subtleties, nuances. Work from the lower corners of each slope. If during the stacking process there is a need to adjust sheets, they are simply cut to the desired value.

The junction between the sheets should be the opposite of the line on which water will be drained. If you do otherwise, the rainflows will join inside.

The first row of coating is closed, carefully following the protrusions - it should be output 4 cm further eaves. It is not necessary to measure this distance to measure this distance, the error in several millimeters will worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are lighter and faster, but will again concentrate when it comes to the fragments placed on the horse. It should be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and the preparatory work is carried out at height, and this makes special requirements for the organization of labor.

Be sure to use special belts and safety cables. Before lifting the roof, shoes with embossed rubber soles are worn.

at twilight and in the dark (even with good electrical lighting);
during the rain and until the surface dry;
in the fog;
with the wind, it is stronger than 15 m / s (even if these are separate impulses).

It is necessary to raise up the top of the material and tools as needed to work in the next 1-2 hours.

It is better to spend more time on lifts and descents than to face problems because of the zoom of space. Of course, you can never work on iced roof. Garbage, defective and spoiled parts of the material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else descend from the roof only on the stairs. It is unacceptable to dump them down.

The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools and extended wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone and did not turn out under their feet. Any mechanisms, especially electrical, are checked in advance on Earth, and not only before starting work as a whole, but also at the beginning of each working day. Carefully check the integrity and availability of insulation. Before lifting the top of large sheets, you need to make sure there are no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tile, even unpacking, must be performed in mittens and overalls, because the edges of any sheet metal is extremely sharp, and sometimes serrated.

Any instruction for professional builders invariably reminds that this material is slippery, and walk on it should be extremely careful, only with a security belt. If the rise of metal tile is produced using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start. You can not walk and stand under the lift site and in some radius from it (the stronger the wind within the limits of allowed, thedes of this radius). Unloading packets, they always raise, but do not pull out of laying.

A typical technological card requires not to raise a long shaped sheet by the edges, they should be kept only from the sides. If pollution is detected on metal tile, they are required to remove them with household detergents, and with the most gentle as possible. Powerful mixtures can damage the coating. It is not always possible to apply all the delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how their storage is organized. It is impossible to leave metal tile in the factory dense packaging, it is folded on the inclined bars, as it allows you to leave and evaporate the rain drops.

Metal tile, covered with plastic, should be stored (both in packaging, and without it) maximum 14 days. If it is required to leave it for more time, storage material as well as galvanized type.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material implies preliminary training:

additional support boards;
brucks for end-to-end (firefighter or observation hatch);
stairs on the roof;
wall stairs to be partially on the roof;
snowstovers;
roofing bridges.

Cutting the metal tile to the desired size is recommended by saws and scissors for metal, manual electric saws with solid alloys. Bulgarian with abrasive discs is not simply harmful when cutting the material, it can not work closer than 10 m from the sheet, as the flying sparks can damage the tile. Going to mounting the coating, its surface need to be released from chips, fastening elements and rivets. The mounted metal tile is painted with appropriate paints with the karnis themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the edges and all accidentally emerged scratches.

The feature of the 1/1025 sheets is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary transverse bend that simplifies the installation and blocking the spreading of the material. On the roof of a complex configuration, such a coating can be put only after thorough measurements, while the needs of the sheets must calculate the professionals.

Working on the tent roof, the cut blocks will not be able to put on opposite rocks, as they have a transverse picture.

If you have to step on the laid sheets of metal tile, it is desirable to walk along the places where the lamp is delivered.

Properly cover the roof of this material, if you do not check whether transverse folds are qualitatively docked after installing each block.

0.48x5;
0.48x6.5;
0.48х8 cm.

A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are needed that attaching a coating in the lower parts of the waves, in the eaves, in the naval. They are also recommended to consolidate the planks. Not all fasteners are certainly suitable for work, in this case it is recommended to use screws with a sealing layer from EPDM rubber. To note: use nails are categorically incorrect, since they are less reliable than screws.

A big mistake is tightening fasteners until it stops - in this case, the surface can be covered with dents.

Screwing screws is manually impractical and tedious.A electrical drill helps to simplify the work that has functions of smooth adjustment of revolutions and can act in reverse mode. The shaped sheets are under the tilt of 1: 4, and the trapezoids need to be installed at an angle of 1: 7. Part of the manufacturers refuses to be liable if the profile is placed on the roof with a smaller slope. For a folding roof of a classic type, you need to make a minimum 1: 12 slope.

Fronton planks are attached from the sides to the frontal boards, and at the top they attach them to metal tile. Fastenings put 80 cm apart from each other, the mutual backrest of the front plan - 10 cm. Before mounting the skiing shaped plank, it is assumed to fix the end cover rivets. The backstage makes 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five skate slats, they associate in a single block with the help of screws and put in the course of the skate.

Next seal the joints between the bar and the profile sheet. The skate elements themselves punch with screws through seals to sheets at the top of the waves (go through one wave). Cut, adjacent to the skate, it is better to do this: the ends are cut under the scat and mounted tightly under the sheet.

To compact the shaped skate elements, it is recommended to take a self-adhesive connection of the type "Top Roll".

There is nothing complicated in all these works. It is only necessary to be attentive and neat.

Even having a complete picture of the standard work technology, you can allow major errors or skip a convenient case to reduce costs and simplify work.

According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under the roof of the metal tile satisfies the three requirements:

ensured a gap from waterproofing to the metal;
through the cornice, the air goes freely;
to pass through a plot under the skate does not interfere with anything.

Only by completing these conditions, you can guarantee a stable insulation of a attic or attic.

Before work, check the timber and boards. It should not have signs of mechanical destruction or influence of insects.

Do not take a material with deep cracks or poorly dried tree. All nails must be made of stainless steel stainless steel. The necessary length will be recognized by doubling the thickness of the crate.

If you have to stick the boards with each other, it is required to bring the border to rafters with any possibility.

Neighboring horizontal rows are put so that the joints are mutually shifted. Self-tapping screws that screw metal sheets are screwed at a minimum of 6-8 pieces per 1 square meter. m, because the coating is heavy and it needs to be thoroughly pressed against the support. Making a tiled roof for a warm attic, it is advisable to install the windows of the residential room to the crate held with the rapid beams. If the windows are very big, it is better to attach them directly to the rafters.

Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and the anti-condensate film should be put in a certain period. Between the two adjacent rafters, the film can rush a maximum of 20 mm (with a largest distance of 120 cm). If the lamp is made of wood, you need to put an anti-condensate film for a counterbalax. This will optimize ventilation in the interval from the sheet of coating to the film. When the drain is created, the installation of the cornice is preceded by placing the holders of the gutter. And the eaves itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter coming from the wall.

Connect the cornice with the crate leaning self-drilling screws with a flat top.Two cornices are needed with a 5-10 cm raid. Sew the roofs of the roof itself can be a professional, metal siding or facade panels.

Strumbering is forbidden to fix metal tile into the upper wave deflection, as well as the applied hammer to fix the screws.

The fastening of the lower end is made on the beammers, and from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of it should remain at least 10 cm.

The upper endow is mounted after the metal tile layout is completed. To do this, they use roofing screws, driven in the top of the waves in a step of 20 ... 30 cm. At the same time, it is unacceptable to disturb the bottom end. When fastening the fronttones, they try to cover the upper breaks of the waves. The horse and metal tile are separated using polyurethane foam, and the ends of the skate element need to be overlapped with a decorative plug. The joints are necessarily processed by sealants.

Waiting profiles are necessarily used where the roof is suitable not only for the walls, but also to various pipes and auditory windows.

They are imposed on metal tile and attach to problem elements. At the level of the cornice after the second lane of the crates, various fences are mounted. The form of them and the specific execution are determined by the bias of the roof and the tile type. It is recommended to use self-conversion bolts with an outer zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 by wood).

It is unacceptable to fix the fence only to one metal tile.

To bind the enclosing structures between themselves, bolts are used. In the deflection of the waves, the elements delaying snow are put, they are fixed through the tile and sealing gasket to the crate itself. In the places provided for this, the seed profiles are made in advance with 12 cm increments (they are counted over the axes of profiles).

Snowmobiles must be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use their pairs.

Mounting process Metal tile can be viewed in the video below.

Metal tile firmly entered our lives. It is this option that the increasing number of people chooses to cover the roof. He has a lot of benefits, and one of the main is considered a long life and reliability. But that these advantages really worked, installation should be done correctly. And what technology laying metal tile on the roof? What difficulties may arise on the implementation of this task? This will be discussed in the article.

How much material need and how to choose it

Laying of metal tiles do it yourself - this is a fully implemented task. But before it proceeds, the material itself should be purchased, and in the desired quantity. In order to determine how many sheets of metal tile are needed, you should do the following:

Calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. If the roof is twin, then it will be easy. Difficulties with calculations will arise with a more complex configuration of the roof. For a four-tight, broken or other option, the area of \u200b\u200beach slope should be calculated separately.
After that, you can decide on the desired amount of metal tile. But then difficulties may arise. First, laying the material on the roof is carried out with the allen. Secondly, it is necessary to follow the correctness of the drawing.
To the calculated number of metal tiles should be added 10-15 percent. To lay the material without trimming, especially on the root with a complex configuration you will not work.

After calculating the desired amount of metal tile for laying on the roof of your new home, you can go to the construction store. But the purchase itself should be done carefully in order not to purchase low-quality products. So that it does not happen, it is worth paying attention to some features.

First, the protective polymer layer of metal tiles should not have chips and cracks. Secondly, the sheets themselves must be smooth, without dents and beggars. In addition, require the sellers documentation on the material. There must be indicated that the metal tile is manufactured by the existing GOST.

Another advice is to buy it directly from a major manufacturer. In this case, the value of metal tile may be less than a thirty percent. And why is the major? The fact is that many entrepreneurs buy metal machines for the production of metal tiles. But not all of them, the quality of products at the desired level. Large producers are more "reverent" refer to their reputation.

Preparation of the base for metal tile

Laying Metal tile on the roof is made using the crate. You can make it with your own hands. To do this, prepare the material. As a rule, wooden boards or bars are used for the crate, but the chipboard sheet can be put. The last option in the case of metal tile is rarely applied. For this type of roofing material, the lamp is discharged.

Used boards or bars must meet the following requirements:

Material moisture no more than 10-12 percent.
All boards should be the same size, it usually concerns their thickness.
It is impossible to use material with "flaws", for example, with cracks or places subject to rotting.

For most often used boards with dimensions of 25 per 100 millimeters. If the roof has a complex configuration, then it is better to apply thicker bars.

It is very important to decide on the shaft step. It all depends on. The laying step should be equal to the distance between the waves. But this applies not to all sections of the roof. The eaves have a step between the shell boards should be less than 2-3 centimeters.

The shell laying technology of the roof shafts under metal tile is simple. Start work follows from the cornice. The first board is mounted on the edge. Next, an indent of 23-28 centimeters is made and the following is attached. After that, the boards are laid in a step equal to the metal tile wave.

It is possible to mount with the help of wood screws or using nails. The first option is considered the most reliable. The mount is made directly to the rafters, two points.

Before installation, it is very important to handle all the boards with special impregnations. Wood is "capricious" material. He is "afraid of" moisture, fire and biological impact, if the boards are not treated with impregnations, they quickly rotate.

Do not forget about waterproofing. Of course, if you put the metal tile correctly, there will be no roof. But without an additional layer of waterproofing it is impossible to do. The fact is that when the temperatures drops under the roofing material, condensate begins to form. If the moisture falls on the wooden elements of the rafting system, they will start rot.

Various materials can be used as waterproofing. You can lay a thick polyethylene film or a special membrane. Ruberoid can be used as an inexpensive option, but here you should be careful. If the bitumen falls on the polymer layer of metal tile, the latter can begin to "deter".

What do you need to lay the material

Put the metal tile with your own hands on the roof of the house - this is a simple task. But so that everything goes quickly and without checking, you should prepare for work. First of all, you need to get all the tools and adaptations.

Laying the metal tile on the roof is carried out with their own hands using the following:

The necessary materials should also be prepared. In addition to the self-tapping screws and the metal tile, it is necessary to "stock" in good kinds. Any roof of the house does not cost without a cornese and end plank, skate and other details. They should be purchased from the same manufacturer who had a metal tile.

Instructions for laying

Now it is worth considering such a question as styling metal tile step by step. The technology of this process is as follows:

The first thing should be consolidated by the eaves and the overtakers. These challenges play an important role, they protect the roof of the house. Before mounting the cornice bar, nourish the windshield. Brackets for drainage are fixed on it. After that, installation of the cornice bar is carried out.
If the roof has negative angles, then the next step will be the installation of the Undo. This element must be put on a solid crate.
Next, it is possible to lay the metal tile. It is necessary to do it from the cornice. Which side of the roof, with the right or left, start - this is the case of the master. This is not fundamentally. The first sheet must be putting in a cornese and edge of the roof. The next laid on the right or left.
Stacking simple. Initially, the bottom row is mounted. Next, the next and so to the skate. The most optimal option is if the skate length coincides. In this case, the styling will be carried out faster, and the roof itself will be reliable (there will be little joints). But if the roof is broken or has a complex configuration, then do not turn out.
Metal tile sheets to the clamp do not need to fix the sheets. Initially, the layout of one row is made. Next, all the sheets relative to each other and roof edges should be aligned. After that is carried out. At the same time, one square meter should be at least eight sams.
Fastening locations should be strictly over the shell boards. Installation instructions indicate that self-tapping screws are screwed onto a centimeter below the metal tile stacking line. At the same time, it is impossible to cry hard. The hat should tightly press the metal tile to the base, while without damaging it.
Instructions for laying metal tiles indicates the next step - this is the fastening of the upper end. Its styling is carried out on top of the roofing material. At the same time, it is necessary to use special products that improve the tightness of the joints. Endow is the most dangerous place of any roof. It is here, most often leaks are observed.
Next, by, there is laying of good products. It is a horse, end stripes and so on. It is best that they are from the same manufacturer. In this case, the stying will be held without much difficulties. In addition, it will provide a more attractive appearance and significantly improve the roof protection of the house.
When laying, voluntary materials should also be carefully related to waterproofing and other "add-ons". Especially it concerns the skate. Here, in addition to the sealer to improve protection against the flow, other devices should be used to ensure the presence of a ventilation gap. Without such a "slit", condensate, formed under metal tile when changing temperatures, can quickly output the solo system.