Construction of wooden scaffolding and scaffolding. DIY scaffolding. If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only

All photos from the article

When conducting various works at height - from laying walls to cladding the facade or applying plaster, the construction of structures is required that will allow you to perform work comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.

Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a prefabricated modular systems who may have the most different size, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards, it is this option that we will consider in the article.

What is required for work

Before you build scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:

Racks	For them, either a board with a size of 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will carry the main load and hold the entire structure, therefore, only high-quality lumber without large knots, damage by woodworms and rot should be used, this is very important to ensure safety
Flooring and lintels	For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used, it is important that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary)
Spacers	Elements that give rigidity and maintain the geometry of the structure being erected are made of a board 30-32 mm thick, it is also used to create fences, which are essential to ensure a safe work process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or stumble on the scaffolding
fasteners	Either nails or self-tapping screws of large thickness are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all connections. Can also be used modern version- mounting angles and plates, with their help, the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, besides, the price of these elements is low

Important!
Do not forget about the tool, as it will require cutting wood, hammering nails or screwing screws, as well as taking measurements, for this it is easiest to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.

The working process

The instruction on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards is quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, it is with them that we will begin to consider the issue.

Basic design requirements

There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the scaffolding you collect and ensures the highest safety:

The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with a longer span, the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
Decking width to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, as the stability of the system will suffer;
The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the same amount is maximum length lumber, and it is not recommended to build up elements.

Stages of work

The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a certain sequence:

First you need to connect the first 4 racks, for this, the long side is first fastened, this is done with the help of diagonal struts, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected using all the same struts, then the resulting structure must be put up and checked for stability, if necessary, reinforcement is made using additional jumpers and perforated corners;

Next you need to fix the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be carried out. It is important to calculate everything correctly in order to ensure the convenience of the process, if two rows of flooring are used, two rows of jumpers are made accordingly, they will also serve as elements that provide rigidity, it makes sense to mount on corners with stiffeners to further strengthen the support;
The flooring is arranged on fixed jumpers, for its device, only a reliable board is taken without cracks and damage, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the desired length so that the extra parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fixed with self-tapping screws, since the wood cracks much less from them, and fixation is obtained much better;

Next, you need to attach the elements of the fence, their location directly depends on the location of the flooring. The general rule is that the elements should be at least waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail two rows of board for even more security. Here lumber is used with a thickness of at least 30 mm, so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
The next step is the installation of supporting elements, their number and configuration depends on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the forests and the reliability of the soil around the house. It is important to learn one simple rule here - as many supports are installed as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well on the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;

Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: the bar is fixed at one end on the rack and the other on the wall.

Hello dear Semenych! I have been building the house for 3 years, finally it came to siding. There was a problem in the scaffolding. Question: What is the more rational, profitable way to act? Rent scaffolding? Chop - how exactly?

Eugene, Gorno-Altaisk.

Hello, Eugene from Gorno-Altaisk!

Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my giblets three times. In order not to please your colleagues to do the same with you, take scaffolding seriously.

When installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, we use both scaffolding and just stairs with our construction teams (changing almost annually, including due to natural attrition).

Ladders are preferably aluminum folding and retractable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor and up to 18 meters. At least, I have not seen a longer length on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to not push through the siding when they rest on it. True, traces of metal on light siding remain and then they have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.

Wooden stairs with their lengths of more than 6 meters are heavy, you are tormented to move, and even when they are leaning on the mounted siding, and this happens, they can push through it.

In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs are usually not used. Yes and aluminum stairs do not at all contribute to productive work, since one often has to go down to the sinful earth for the required material. Even if there are assistants on it, feeding sheets of siding.

When it is not possible to have your own forests (nowhere to store, or they were stolen bad people directly from the facility under construction), then you have to borrow them from colleagues for a while or rent them from organizations that do business on this.

In our area one day rental minimum quantity scaffolding, sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding, costs from 800 - 1000 rubles per day.

Most popular scaffolding- this is an old Soviet production from steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3 - 4 meters (racks) and a diameter of about 60 millimeters. Advantage - in their reliability and durability. The downside is the heaviness.

Now steel ones are more in use, but already with a diameter of about 40 millimeters and somewhat less often - aluminum counterparts. Various lengths and ways of fastening. Advantage - light, quickly mounted. The disadvantage is less reliability than Soviet-made ones.

Even less common are aluminum scaffolding with two ten-meter racks-sets and with a six-meter platform (half a meter wide) that rises with the help of manual winch. You sit on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.

About five years ago, with the help of such forests, installation work in one research institute.

Crowds of designers with undisguised interest looked at original design. However, such forests are unlikely to be able to rent.

With sufficient experience in the installation of siding, and it is acquired in the process, two or three people cottage with dimensions of 6/6 meters and with attic gables, they are sheathed in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.

It is best to work with three people, when two people mount all the elements of the siding, and one person cuts the plastic to size with a grinder and feeds it.

To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction gantry scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, put the stairs on them with an emphasis on stuffed bars. For insurance, we screw them with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver (a great thing! I recommend). Or attach with wire / rope /.

We knock together goats from 1 to 2 meters high, no more, otherwise the whole town will tremble.

Sometimes we act as follows - we mount siding from stairs to the entire possible permissible height (and goats / emphasis on the first syllable! Or else you think ... /). And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made for a shorter period.

But more often we take scaffolding from familiar colleagues, today they give us, and tomorrow we help them with something.

One of my acquaintances, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon who does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him scaffolding for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.

To hammer together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding, in my opinion, is not rational. Especially if you put them on the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You will kill a lot of time, and you need a lot of material. Well, if then this material can be used elsewhere. And because of the bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the house around the perimeter. Less, but rather more is needed, as four peasants are indispensable. Will have to be partially dismantled.

Although the taste and color ... No later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden, who alone fenced himself out of 6 meter boards similar. True, he builds his house exactly twice as long as you, and there is no end in sight. One is building.

In any case, if you decide this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their top with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that fasteners in addition will interfere with the installation of siding when you get to this fastener.

Wooden scaffolding of this type is made from vertical 6-meter racks. You are unlikely to get a longer length - not a standard. Racks are a cut board with a section of at least 40/100 millimeters.

On the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, such boards are laid, fastened together with transverse bars-boards of the same section. They are overlapped, fastened with three or four "hundred" nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).

The crossbars are located from each other at an approximate distance of one and a half meters and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.

Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will sheathe with siding. The rack should not lean against the wall, but should be about 15 centimeters away from it. In order not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.

Place pieces of edged board under the racks so that they do not sag into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with an additional lining of such boards.

After one set is installed, it is temporarily fixed in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half - 2 meters, they put the second such set. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets, boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and the other in opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from collapsing and collapsing.

Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.

After two sets are already standing, they make a third, install in the same way.

Then put on the crossbars edged boards, usually "30" or "40" (these bend less), on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.

You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move to work higher, they are also shifted higher to the next crossbars.

It is better to climb these temporary sites using a ladder, which is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence forests above 6 meters, since measured standard boards just such a length and building them up without additional strengthening is a tricky business.

When you get to the height of 8 meters (6 meters of forest plus your height), then this will be your roof fad.

Scaffolding is a temporary engineering structure, designed for access to the facility under construction, placement of building material, auxiliary equipment and tools. After completion of work at the facility, these structures must be dismantled.

Structurally, scaffolding is usually carried out in the form of multi-tiered buildings, consisting of levels built up in stages with connecting stairs and special fences. In addition, scaffolding can be used for major repairs and finishing works v low-rise construction in conditions where the involvement of special high-altitude equipment is impractical.

As an example, we can cite cases of using scaffolding when laying and plastering the walls of a small country house, which ensures that all safety requirements stipulated by the regulations are met.

Scaffolding used during construction activities may differ markedly in their design. And if you are wondering how to make scaffolding yourself, then you should first of all familiarize yourself with some of the most common designs today. The forests in general case there are:

pin;
wedge;
frame;
collar.

The following can be said about the advantages and disadvantages of one or another type of forest.

Pin type forests are characterized by very high speed assembly and disassembly. Wedge scaffolding guarantee builders the ability to "hold" large workloads. Frame type scaffolding is unique because of its low weight. Clamp scaffolding is not entirely practical and is used, as a rule, only when working on fairly complex objects and often have an individual character.

The practice of renting scaffolding from specialized companies with subsequent self-delivery and installation on site (included, by the way, in the cost of the order) is quite reasonable, since it significantly simplifies all procedures for the installation and dismantling of this building structure.

The reasonableness of this method of organizing construction work is also explained by the fact that the time savings from this event are very sensitive. And in a certain situation it can have crucial to complete the work on time.

If you decide to build scaffolding with your own hands, then you need to know that the constructed on your own scaffolding must be manufactured in accordance with current regulations or the instructions of their manufacturers.

The fact is that the apparent simplicity of scaffolding design is outwardly very deceptive, and the slightest deviation from the normalized indicators can lead to a loss of their rigidity and stability. As an example, it can be noted that a small "understatement" threaded connections or the presence of a slight play in the joint, as well as an insufficiently tight fit of the surfaces at the points of contact, can to a certain extent affect the stability of the entire structure as a whole.

Despite the importance and responsibility of the working procedures for the construction of scaffolds, they are nevertheless not considered very complex structures. In case you decide to build your own Vacation home- the option of making scaffolding on your own is quite suitable for you. According to the current building regulations, the construction of scaffolding from timber and boards for your own construction is allowed if it has no more than two tiers (two meters high).

In this case, the sequence of operations for one of the known options for assembling scaffolding usually looks like this.

For the manufacture of vertical racks is taken construction timber 10x10cm; moreover, to increase stability, these racks should converge slightly from above.
Crossbars from a 4 cm board are attached to the racks, forming support platforms dispersed around the perimeter of the square, on which the flooring is subsequently laid.
The flat "floors" of each of the tiers, as well as the crosses that increase the overall rigidity of the structure, are usually made of slabs, which always remain after the dismantling of the foundation formwork.
In the end part of the structure, you can place steps mounted on screws or long self-tapping screws.

Such a design is not designed for a large load - that's why you should not allow more than 2 people to such makeshift scaffolding and load them with too heavy material (bags of cement and bricks).

With large construction loads, it is best to use special scaffolding constructed on the basis of metal pipes and assembled by the type of the constructor (although it will take you a lot of time to assemble them).

Another version of the scaffolding design involves the use of the same racks, but already made of a 50x100mm board, and the distance between the racks, depending on the size of the object, can be from 2 to 2.5 meters. Such forests are designed for a total width of at least 1 meter, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work on them. Vertical racks are connected to each other "cross to cross" using thinner boards (25-30mm). The fastening of the structure is carried out using nails measuring 100-120mm.

At the height you need, jumpers from the "fifty" are attached, and already the flooring from the same boards is laid on the latter and firmly nailed to them. WITH outside scaffolding, it is necessary to install a board that plays the role of a fence. If necessary, a second tier is constructed, located above the first flooring and equipped with the same fencing board.

Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of stops, with the help of which the entire structure is fixed (pressed) to the building being erected towards the wall. This is achieved through reliable fastening racks to the walls of the structure under construction with the help of additional boards or the installation of special inclined stops.

If all these conditions are met, you can safely carry out any construction and repair work in your area.

During the construction, repair and maintenance of a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at a height. With the help of a ladder, not everything can be done, and it is not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wood scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often they are made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all that is needed is a saw, nails / screws, a hammer / screwdriver / screwdriver. The set of tools is uncomplicated, which any owner can find, and if there is nothing, then a lot of money is not required to purchase. Metal in this regard is more difficult. It requires at least some handling skill, the presence welding machine and at least some idea of how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made of wood.

What to do

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short time. But you need to use construction wood for their manufacture. good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some masters advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and almost do not affect the strength of the board.

But spruce boards are rarely available, but pine is usually enough. From pine boards scaffolding can also be done, but each of them must be checked (in any case, which go to the racks and flooring). To do this, two columns are added (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. A board is placed on the posts, standing in the middle, they jump on it a couple of times. If there's weak spots board will break or crack. Withstood - can be used.

It is necessary to speak specifically about the thickness of the board, being tied to the design scaffolding, the distances between the racks and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that for racks and flooring, a board with a thickness of 40 mm or 50 mm is most often used, for jibs - 25-30 mm. Such a board can be used in the most detailed construction work, if it is possible not to damage it when dismantling the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

There is always a dispute about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at height, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view better nails. They are made of soft metal and under load, they bend, but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, and it is brittle and breaks in the presence of shock or variable loads. For scaffolding, this is critical - there were cases when they fell apart. But this we are talking about the "black" screws. If still anodized - yellowish green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not loved due to the fact that it will not work to disassemble the connection quickly and without loss - most often the wood is damaged.

At self-manufacturing scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything on anodized self-tapping screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each joint. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails; whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used for an extended span. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types works use different construction scaffolding and scaffolding. Too big for light materials load bearing capacity need not. In such cases, add-on scaffolds or scaffolds-envelope are made.

For work on gables or when outdoor decoration low one-story house construction goats are used, on the rungs of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - for all these works, full-fledged scaffolding is required.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Let's take a closer look at each of these structures.

Side scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply lean against. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter "G", only deployed in different directions.

In the figure on the right, a simple and robust construction scaffolding. Their only drawback is that they are not adjustable in height. Convenient, if necessary, for example, to hem roof overhangs, mount or clean a drain, all those works that have a small variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (beams). It is convenient to roll up or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11 meter log and three people Construction scaffolding- simple design

In the picture on the left, an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. Attractive in that it requires a minimum building materials, you can assemble / disassemble / move them in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting it to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

For the manufacture of triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - for it it is convenient to raise the scaffold to a given height. The upper crossbar is made with a length of 80-100 cm, flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

In the manufacture of corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this node, you can use metal lining in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed with the help of three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the facade allows, they are nailed; if not, they manage only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other - on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from a bar, a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, a pipe of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or a section (for a profiled pipe at least 50 * 40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed by driving in wedges.

To exclude the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. Here for these jibs you can use unedged board if it is, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If it becomes necessary to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed more than 6 meters long), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, removing part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these side scaffolding. It is made from wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is desirable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is highly desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the job does not involve the presence of heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to lean the scaffolding on the wall - any ventilated facade or sandwich wall- and you will not be able to put a similar design. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their construction is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their device, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They must be made on the basis that the minimum more or less comfortable flooring width is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability racks can be made tapering upwards.

Racks are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding is.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling, they are propped up with boards / beams, one end of which is nailed to the racks (nails), the other is buried in the ground

The crossbeams prevent sideways folding, but there is still the possibility that loose scaffolding could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffold is 2.5-3 meters, this may not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If the work will be carried out at high altitude, it is advisable to make a railing. They can be made from a not very thick board, but there should be no knots, as well as cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights feel more confident at the top.

Up to the floor level of the second floor, a standard molding is enough - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - what is on the farm

Construction goats

There is still a way to make light mobile scaffolding - to build the same construction goats, stuffing the crossbars with a certain step, which will be both a ladder and a support for the floorboards.

This version of scaffolding is good, for example, when sheathing a house with siding. Sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix against the wall. Therefore, this option for such a case is the best.

Construction goats - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilt. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases, this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventive treatment.

Types and units of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone, building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the most cheap look building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put into action - used in further construction. And the metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them from time to time: the log house requires maintenance, so once every two or three years, forests are needed. In this case, metal ones are more practical than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding have the same shape − vertical racks connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

Stud forests. They are called so due to the fact that the crossbars with the racks are connected using pins. Pipe sections or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. Such a system is assembled very simply, withstands heavy loads. It is very easy to implement pin scaffolding for buildings of a simple form, bypassing bay windows and ledges is much more difficult.
Clamp. Pipes are used for racks and crossbars round section, which are fastened together with the help of clamps of a special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and mobile, you can easily bypass any curvilinear facades. Minus - limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick assembly/dismantling
Frame. from round or rectangular pipe frames of the same size are welded. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They are modular and can be easily extended both in height and length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 / 3 meters, one section is usually 2 meters in height, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels - for easier movement along flat surface. The connection of elements of the flag type - pins with a slot are welded on the frame, into which the flag is inserted. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on the pin, fixed with a flag. Sections are built up with connecting pipes smaller diameter, welded to the racks of the frames on one side. With this method, it is important to perfectly match the dimensions of the pipes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
Wedge. With a general similarity, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. On the jumpers at both ends special locks of the "wolf's mouth" type are welded. The locks are fixed on the disc with a wedge of a special shape. Such scaffolds connect and disconnect quickly, have high mobility, and can be used on facades. complex shapes.

With self-manufacturing of metal scaffolding, pin scaffolding is most often made. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are good only on rectangular facades, to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

Sooner or later, construction comes to finishing the facade. And here there is a need to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, you need to “hem” the gables, and mount the siding, and paint the elements of the facade, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to put up scaffolding or a tower-tour. But industrial building construction expensive, and the price of a tower-tour with a working height of 8-10 meters bites a lot. You can rent them, but if the work stretches over time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of the members of the forum suggests that to build metal constructions economically feasible only if there is "free" iron. If you buy metal fasteners, to engage in welding work, then such structures will eventually cost more than factory and, especially, wooden ones.

If the scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into "business", then the metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility block. Experienced builders will say that well-made scaffolding or tower can then be rented out. But few of the private developers will want to mess with this. Therefore, most members of the forum still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their manufacture.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is better to build from high-quality lumber. quality board, Unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after its use, can be used in a new construction site.

Scaffolding for the house with their own hands.

How to make scaffolding from planks

Before you start homemade wooden structures, it is necessary to determine the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for filing gables, sheathing with siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

Length - 5 m;
Width - 1 m;
Height (thickness) - 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters of board 150x50mm.

Buryat FORUMHOUSE member

They are called "scaffolding - an envelope."

Do-it-yourself scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as the basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - a support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed from the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed to each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The power load is carried by a retaining board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - with a pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then the attached scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be spoiled, then they lean against the wall, and the retaining board bears the main load.

When choosing the size of the "envelopes" should adhere to the following requirements. If the platform is too narrow, then it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the separation of the “envelope” from the wall is not excluded. Optimal size platforms - 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that they do not require a lot of lumber for their manufacture.

Buryat FORUMHOUSE member

The retaining board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests against the corner between the wall and the blind area, which is attached at the other end to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at first glance at such designs you doubt their reliability - it's scary to look at! Let's turn to practical experience users of our site.

Zark FORUMHOUSE member

We call such forests "Armenian". When I first saw such a design, I was surprised - how does it hold up at all. I tried it, climbed onto the floor - quite reliably. He himself used attached scaffolding more than once both on wooden and on brick house. They are comfortable, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian construction scaffolding.

Drosha FORUMHOUSE member

Forests of this type are quite safe. There is no need to fasten the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed to the supports with screws (I didn’t knock it down with nails, so that I could quickly disassemble it later).

How to erect scaffolding for heavy work

But such "Armenian" scaffolds are not suitable for all work - mainly for light ones. They are good as scaffolding for house painting etc. For "heavy" work that requires working with tools, mortars, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more robust design should be used.

The build is done like this:

A six-meter board (150/200x50) is taken and placed vertically against the wall;
Parallel to it, a second board is placed;
Between themselves, they are fixed with horizontal bars. Further, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional bracing boards that rest against the ground;
As necessary, scaffolding is increased in height by fixing additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

Wooden scaffolding with their own hands.

diews FORUMHOUSE Member

We did some scaffolding last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They put up only one wall, and then they moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How best to make scaffolding: graise against self-tapping screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of the members of the forum were divided: some believe that it can be assembled on self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only on nails.

The main argument of the opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. Self-tapping screw does not work well under shock load and shear. The result - the hat flies off, the structure loses its strength, up to self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for sheathing a house.

Igor Kokhanov FORUMHOUSE member

I recommend fixing everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bending of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no screws! I will tell you such a case. Familiar builders did the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result - the structures dispersed, all four flew from a five-meter height. The result - one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second is a severe leg injury. But they still got off lightly, if the height were greater, everything could have ended much more deplorably.

That's why it happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load, it bends, but does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little, and then break. Moreover, the so-called "black" self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, hexagon head bolts (under the washer) with a diameter of 8 mm or more and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of the opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been hammered into nails, and part of a good board will have to be thrown out or put on draft work. And the structural elements from shear will be kept by a large friction force that occurs between the boards, if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to compromise - use self-tapping screws to collect scaffolding "on black". In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding, they can be quickly dismantled and rebuilt. And only then, in addition, everything should be hammered together with nails.