Build a bath from a bar with their own hands. Bath from a bar with their own hands: how to build a good bath without a single nail. Construction of Bruz Bath: Benefits of Material and Firing Stages

According to its aesthetic, the quality and durability of the bath from a wooden bar is not much different from the built-in log built, but the process of its construction is much easier, faster and does not require a special level of skill. And the bathhouse itself can be safely called a truly Russian building - because in Russia there was absolutely all the houses were built without a single nail, but very good and for centuries. So, we build a bath from a bar - with the portal site

And for a start - a familiarization video:

How to choose a bar for construction?

The most responsible stage in the construction of a bar from a bar is your own hands - this is the choice of the wood itself. After all, this will directly depend on the operational characteristics of the steam room. The first thing to pay attention to the purchase is the complete absence of cracks in the finished logs. After all, even the smallest, minor of them will definitely give a defect in the shrinkage, constantly expanding in the future and even after becoming the cause of the rotting of the wood.

Secondly, there should be no light blue spots on the surface of BRUSEV - this is evidence that the process of rotting is already in full swing, possibly provoked by fungi - it is no longer a bath, nor house from such a material. Also, the bar for the construction of the bath is considered defective if the worms are visible or traces of eating bugs.

But a good, high-quality bar will look smooth and perfectly smooth. If some distortions or defects are visible - all this will affect the cladding of the crowns, and the construction of a bar from the bar is growing up indefinitely.

The bar is profiled and solid. The profiled is available in the presence of spikes and the weft grooves along the entire length that are additionally polished. Such elements are easier to combine each other. And the most important plus is that in such walls, precipitation and moisture almost do not penetrate. But from the flaws, we highlight the fact that this material is bad endurance and low fire prevention properties. We will have to be treated additionally propylents. Use for construction and solid timber. But it looks usually not too aesthetic and you will need to close it by siding or block house.

But how much do you need a bar on a bath and how to calculate it? It all depends on the project. Any experienced master will be able to attribute the required amount of material on the eye, and if the contract is about the delivery of wood to conclude with some supplier, he will only calculate independently, and will only bring it a strictly necessary number of elements - no longer.

And, if it happened that among the brown bars one or two turned out to be defective, it is not necessary for firewood - they can be opened - they can be cutting and good parts for the manufacture of smaller construction elements: rails, door and window frames, and even floor boards. But the discarded material will definitely need to burn - to prevent the infection of high-quality wood. That is why even at the stage of the contract with the company, how much bar need to be on the bath for the selected project, it is better to overpay a little and order "spare" - those that can be subsequently cut and replace damaged, if any (two-three will be enough).

How to prepare and process the Bar yourself?

But how to build a bath from a bar, if there is no possibility to order the material itself? In this case, it can be prepared independently. Do it better during the cold season.

As soon as the tree is spoiled, it is advisable for him to leave for at least a month, after which all the logs need to look good and go through: it is possible to leave for the construction of the bath only the highest-quality, and the damaged and bad it is better to rear.

Now you can proceed to the processing of the future building material. So, to start a log, it is necessary to clean from the bark, and so that it does not crack, it is necessary to leave it from both sides. About 15 cm width. After such procedures, you can put logs for storage: at least 20 cm from the ground, carefully folding them. Packages or stacks, be sure to keep between 5 to 10 cm between them.

By the way, two or three lower crowns are desirable to lay out of a deciduous bar, and all subsequent - from pine, spruce or cedar. This is due to the fact that the larch always retains its properties, even in an intensely wet environment, and much is less susceptible to rotting, becoming all the harder and harder over time. But build the whole bath from this material - the pleasure is very expensive, but the first three such crowns can allow themselves every already. Yes, and pine and spruce walls of the baths are still a little better by hydraulic and thermal insulation properties.

How to make a project of a future bath?

It's easier and more logical to choose ready. But first, decide exactly how your baths will look like and what structural items in it are required.

Bath with mansard

So, one of the most popular options is a bath with an attic roof and an attached veranda. A summer bedroom is equipped from above, where it will be convenient to spend the night after bath procedures or leave friends for the night, and the veranda is a wonderful place for evening herbal tea.

If you want to look at the projects of baths with a mansard, we advise you to get acquainted with the article

Bath with terrace

If in the yard you plan to build a barbecue, then build a bath with an open-sided terrace. On her, by the way, you can put the furnace itself. And in time, make an artificial pond before the bath.

Bath with a veranda

A simple sauna with a wide veranda is one of the most simple buildings. The veranda is better glazed to make a summer bedroom in it, a kitchen or put a billiard table. Options - Mass!

On how to build a bath with a veranda, described in the article

Bath with a porch

If you are an adherent of a real Russian steam room, build it with a traditional wide porch:

This is not only beautiful, but also practical. Table, samovar and fragrance of nature around - what else is needed?

Bath with a veranda and a wide roof

In such a bath, there is a big advantage from the bar - and the veranda is covered, and the attic has a huge useful area, at least two bedrooms do, and the foundation turned out to be compact.

Chose the project? Then we turn to the subtleties of the construction of a bath from a bar!

Construction of a foundation for a brusal bath

A strong and massive bath from a bar can be built on one of two types of foundation: ribbon and column.

To make a ribbon, all over the perimeter need to build formworks and pour them with concrete - exactly to the depth of the primer of the soil. The height of the foundation itself should be at least half the meter above the surface of the Earth: only so it is possible to protect the lower crowns from the bars from excessive dampness. But within the perimeter of the foundation you will need to pour the strip from rubble or sand. And after two or three weeks, as soon as concrete freezes, you can start laying the first rows of a log.

To make a columnar foundation under the log cabin, you will have to set brick poles around the perimeter, corners and future places of inner bearing walls. Under each of the columns you need to make a concrete "pillow" to avoid their sediment. The distance between such supports should be 1.5 m, and in rare cases - 2 m.

But whatever the foundation is chosen, it is necessary to strengthen the reinforcement - for the strength and fastening of the crowns. And, of course, ensure reliable waterproofing between the basement and the first crown. To do this, a layer of molten bitumen is applied to the horizontal surface of the foundation, which is covered with a solid layer of rubberoid. And after the frozen, his whole procedure must be done again.

Bookmark the first wandes of the future bath

So, the bath assembly from the bar is quite simple - whether it is on a marked project, or improvised. The main thing is not to be lazy to use the construction and do not rush to fix the crowns.

The first thing to do before the start of the construction of the walls of the bath is to check the horizontal surface of the bar at evenness. But not on the eye - it will take a level for this. And on how much the first crown is ideal in this plan, the correctness of the entire design of the bath is depeted.

You need to choose the bars for the first row of the cut, you need the pupils of all subsequent, because all the severity and walls and roofs will fall on them. That is why experienced masters usually advise you to select the first burs with a cross section of 20x20 cm, and all subsequent - 15x15 cm. Only the length of the BRUSEV should be the same.

The laying of the first crowns of the church should begin with the placement of thin wooden rails throughout the basement basement (only before they need to be treated with antiseptic). The thickness of the plates should be no more than 15 mm, and the distance must be observed between them about 25-30 cm. Why is it necessary? So that the lower rows of BRUSIV were well protected from dampness and rotting, which will significantly increase the service life of the entire bath, and the space between the slats is desirable to fill in with the mounting foam or insulation.

Stopping too tightly log bath no need - in the future the whole design itself will give a shrinkage. The lower bar, which places the foundation, does not need any fixation - the pressure of the upper rows and will provide the necessary strength. Yes, and replace once the whole first row will be much easier, because it is not necessary to disassemble the entire bath.

In addition, the bars of the first row itself must be processed from all sides (especially carefully the part that adjies to the foundation). You can use a modern antiseptic for this, and you can take traditional machine oil.

Methods of construction of walls

Before the bars make a bath, it is important to firmly understand the following: such walls are built in a strictly prescribed manner. So, first the crowns are stacked, aligned and fasten with each other with wooden brazings or metal pins. It is necessary to drive them into specially done holes, the diameter of which perfectly coincides with the diameter of the fastening pins themselves. And the holes are drilled at a distance of 1-1.5 m, and the drill even passes and through the upper bar, and half of the one that lies below. After that, the bottom timber is cleaned, the holes are rotated with a length of the height of two bars, and the layer of insulation is stacked. And the upper beam is placed in place.

This is how all the crowns are stacked, up to two tops. By the way, the top fasten is not needed. Because At the last stage, the construction of the baths will have to be temporarily taken to install ceiling beams.

In addition to this method, there are a few more, how to bore the bars among themselves.

So, if nevertheless will be used nails, then only without hats - those that drown in the wood, puzzled. After all, ordinary rust and spoil wood.

It is possible to fasten the timber between and wooden ducts - the square bars of 18x18 mm, the length of which varies from the size of the Bursa, but can not be greater than 25 cm. For their insertion, you need to make a hole drill 21 mm with a diameter, after which it is to drive them into the waders. And the waders themselves must be arranged in a checker order. By the way, drilling the burs should be through.

And finally, it is good to mount the bars with a spring node "force", which looks like a screw with the built-in compression spring inside. Thanks to this fastening system, there will be no gaps between the details - because the bars will be with all the power to go to each other. Although this method and expensive, but the cracks and deformations of the whole design can be happily avoided.

If you decide to build a good-quality bathhouse, then you will definitely get an accurate professional project, because the work will have to be difficult:

Konopka slot

Maybe moss, a pacle and jute are all equally perfectly coped with their heat insulating functions. But it is most convenient to work with Jute, which is unwinding gradually, during styling on top of Bruusyev, and is attached to them with the most common nails stapler.

It is not necessary to careen after applying jute. But if a panel or moss was used, at the end of the shrinkage of the bath, it is necessary to corporate absolutely all the gaps between the crowns - a hammer, cacopat and a wooden blade will go to the move. The process itself looks like: the package is clogged in the slot after shrinkage.

Roof construction

So, now we go to the construction of the roof. The easiest option is to build, under which to organize a warmed attic with good ventilation. But, usually in the bath always lacks the excess premises to organize a room for guests, a bedroom, a billiard room or home cinema - why lose valuable meters?

It is only important to inspire it correctly:

Installation of door and window openings

About where they will be located in the bathhouse and windows, you need to take care in advance. To do this, during the construction of walls in the right places, it is necessary to leave a small gap, and already after the log house gives the final shrinkage, the planned openings are made in the planned places of the chainsaw:

Natural shrinkage and internal work

The final stage of construction of a bath bar is preparation of a church to a semi-annual shrinkage period. For this, as soon as all works are completed, a number of boards are stacked on the upper crowns, 40-50 mm thick, and it is covered with a slate or rubberoid. So the bath must be overwhelmed. And only at the end of the shrinkage period you can start finishing work.

That's all! It remains now only to protect the lower bars of the baths from damp, creating a high-quality job around:

And you can proceed to internal work:

Today, as before, for many and many people, the bath is an integral part of life. Many dream of having her on their own plot, but they do not decide to start construction, considering it too complex. However, with a detailed consideration of each construction step, it can be understood that there are practically no subtleties and nuances.

So how to build a bath from a bar with your own hands? For such construction, you will need to perform several consecutive stages.

All stages of construction

If the construction of the bath begins from the very beginning, you will have to perform the following steps:

Preparation of the terrain and purchase of all materials;
Marking of the area;
Fundament device;
Construction of walls from timber;
Floor laying;
Installation of the furnace;
Ceiling and roofing device;
Interior decoration;
Exterior finish.

As can be seen, there are a lot of work, but making it consistently, gradually understanding all the details, becomes clear how to build a bath from a bar with your own hands.

Preparation of terrain and purchase of materials

All construction begins if the project is ready, with the preparation of the area. From here, everything is superfluous, that is, various plantings, some extraneous items are the usual cleaning of the terrain.

As for the purchase of materials for, then you should know what exactly necessary.

So, for the construction of the bath, the following material will be required:

Profiled timing of 20 per 20 cm in size or more on the first crown;
Profiled timber size 15 to 15 for walls and partitions;
Moss or panel for insulation bath (laying between bars);
Wooden or metal brazers;
Staples made of fittings for fixing two perpendicular logs.

Tip! Brous batch must be prepared in advance, for example, a year before the start of construction. This is due to the fact that the products must be completely sucked, since, the raw wood is subsequently dissipated, which leads to undesirable consequences.

Marking of the terrain and the construction of the foundation

Marking is to mark the location of the future bath. For this, pegs and rope will be perfectly. In this case, you need to create a flat line, because it is that way to get a smooth trench for the foundation.

And for the construction of the foundation, the following materials will be required:

Concrete;
Sand;
Crushed stone;
Formwork boards;
Ruberoid;
Insulating material.

Calculator calculating the composition of concrete will help you keep all the proportions.

Bath with their own hands from a timber - a multi-stage process that requires compliance with the conditions of fire safety, as well as the competent selection of materials. Those who want to build a solid bathroom in their indention, you need to know the stages of the construction of the room, the competent implementation of hydro-and-thermal insulation, the proper treatment of the lumber.

Before, how to start the construction of a bath from a bar with your own hands, it is important to competently approach the selection of lumber, which should meet all the requirements, differ in quality and natural purity.

The bar, as an option for the construction of a bath, has its own characteristics and distinctive properties. Why do many builders choose this particular material? All ingenious is simple: this wood material is the most universal, safe and price for it is absolutely indulgent.

Good thermal insulation data.
High hygiene.
Environmental superiority.
Ease of installation.
Attraction appearance.

Of course, a better room will be made from natural logs, but not everyone can afford such pleasure, because the prices of these two material options are significantly different. But it would be wrong to argue that the log is much better than timber, as both applicants are carriers of approximately the same properties and performance characteristics. Therefore, the only difference here will be external data and the price.

From how rationally, the material is chosen correctly, the final result of construction depends, in particular the working characteristics of the steam, which is perhaps the main culprit of the celebration at the festival of the bath.

When buying a bar, you need to focus on the integrity of the surface of the material. The bar will be unsuitable if there are cracks and defects of the structure. Of course, it can also be used, but the bath from such a bar will last long, since it will be spoiled and hesitated. And it is also not necessary to choose a material having unpleasant dark traces, which usually appear as a result of natural rotation processes from the inside of wood.

Having come to the store, do not hurry to rush at a low price, as this is a very low quality indicator. Perhaps such wood has already been pretty koroed. In conclusion, when choosing a bar, pay due attention to the fact that individual elements should be. Since this sawn timber is made in various dimensional variations, in this matter you need to rely on the planned parameters of the room.

The correct calculation of the material will allow not only to fill the work with quality, but also accelerate the entire technological process of installation. First of all, it is necessary to consult what thickness should have every wood element in accordance with the planned quadrature and the area of \u200b\u200bthe plot. Secondly, as construction practice shows, it is necessary to buy material for the bath with the accounting that some part will go to the pit in connection with the marriage.

To calculate the number of timber on 1 cubic meter, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the room. The resulting result is multiplied by the number of height and the thickness of one bar.

We produce action by the formula V \u003d H * B * L, where H is the height indicator, B - width, L - length.
So, V \u003d 0.15 * 0.15 * 6; The result obtained will be the number 0.135 m3

Now we consider how much bar need to be purchased for one cube meter: 1 / 0,135 \u003d 7.40 pcs.

Mandatory in the construction of the baths are calculations of how many units of the material will take place on the inner finish. Take the conventional digits of the width of 5 meters, the length is 10 meters and height is 3 meters. We define the conditional size of one unit of the sawn timber, take 1.5 cm * 1.5 cm.

Perimeter Baths: (5 + 10) * 2 \u003d 30 meters.

Wall area: 30 * 3 (height) \u003d 90 sq. M. meters.

For a box of timber: 90 * 0.15 \u003d 13.5 cube meters.

The result obtained, namely the number of 13.5 will be the amount of timber used in cubic meters.

In order for each construction stage to ensure the correctness of the execution, it is necessary to comply with the procedure for mounting the structure.

Build a foundation.
Installation of the roof.
Construction of windows, openings and partitions.
Interior finishing works.

In order to build a design, you need to dig up inlent ones in the plane of the entire perimeter. After it is important to prepare cushions made of concrete in the corners for mounting brick columns. Display carrier poles with 1.5 meters increments.

The second stage of the construction of the foundation under the bath includes:

Formwork construction by 50 cm above the plane of the Earth.
Inside the fundamental frame to make flooring with a sand with a rubble.
All perimeter pour a concrete tie.
After drying the concrete, perform waterproofing by the bitumen and layer of rubberoid.

Before building the walls of a bar from a bar, you need to remember the main thing: separate elements of the lumber can not be customized to each other jacking jack, as the tree in terms of its distinctive features has the property to expand or shrink under the influence of changed humidity and temperature indicators. In order to comply with such conditions, the joints and gaps between the bars were tight for sealed, you can use jute, fully satisfying the requirements for wood structures. It is not recommended as a seal to use the mounting foam, since it will be not only inappropriate here, but also unsuitable for ensuring the structural fortress. Moreover, it is very badly experiencing increased moisture and exposure to sunlight.

The first version of the mounting of the bar for the beast of the walls. Such a solution implies a sequence of steps:

Capping lumber elements laying on mounting area.
With a step of 150 cm, the holes are drilled along the top, and the pione of half the thickness.
The upper timber is driven into the lower bent two meters of height.
The installation of the sealer throughout the perimeter is made.
The upper timber is completely seated by combining holes and copilyons.
Repetition of the above-described actions with raising the remaining rows.

There is a second version of the mounting of the bars, which requires the connection of the elements of fastener (nails) with cut-off caps. Processed in this way, nails are much less and slower than the corrosion.

According to the third method, you can also easily connect the details of the walls for the walls. In this case, the drums are used as a fastener. The bar is drilled through, and each item is connected by the dock of the driver in the order of checkered location.

And finally, the final, no less convenient method of executive using the system under the battered clamps. This method can pour into a penny, but its main advantage is the ability to leave the gaps and joints, as well as the incredible strength of the connection of bars.

An important detail in the distortion of the walls is observing the rules for processing door or window boxes. Putting wooden rows over the processes must necessarily leave a reserve, approximately equal to 6 cm, in case of wood shrinkage.

Natural shrinkage bath

After the surveillance of the walls, the bath needs to create conditions in which it will be able to purchase its final form. Without this stage, the internal finish will be an error and will not lead to due results.

For a natural shrinkage of the room, it should be prepared, namely, to put the boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm. Installation of the roof is made using slate. After such construction manipulations, the bath must be left to "relax" for six months. Natural shrinkage building will allow you to save the finishing materials from damage and deformation.

To completely build a bath from a bar with your own hands, you need to correctly perform the following steps. It is necessary to comply with them at the stage of distillation of the walls. So, while the ranks of Bruusyev are stacked, some are made gaps for window and doorways. Already after a natural shrinkage, you need to cut them with chainsaws.

Of course, you can go and other way: to purchase special grooves and elements of a bar with an end word. This method is less relevant and acceptable, as it reserves the possibility of deformation of windows and doors after shrinkage.

The roof is the main element after the walls. The most inexpensive and not troublesome option is the installation of a single design. Such a structure consists of transversely located lags collected together under a certain angle of inclination. The main advantage of a single-piece roof is that the dropped rains will not settle on its surface, and safely flush down the perimeter of the roof.

It has the right to exist and a two-scale deciding installation of roofing design. This option is especially good in those buildings, the layout of which implies the arrangement of the attic. To make such a roof, you need to install rafters and flooring out of the roasters on Earth. The resulting design is irked to the bathhouse. The roof will be metal tile, ondulin or rubberoid.

If you contact the help of specialists, the internal decoration of the built bath will be released at a price greater than the sum of all costs for its construction. Therefore, if you could carry out the installation of such a hard-up design, then facing work will not be much difficult.

In this case, the main knowledge of the technology, as well as the correct selection of the material.

For all regulations, a real bath, like a sauna, requires good thermal insulation and waterproofing. These actions at the maximum will extend the service life of the structure and will retain the heated surface of the walls of ignition.

When choosing finishing material, it is also necessary to take into account its environmental purity and hestructal. So, some species of wood, when heated, begin to carry evaporation, which are beneficial to the human body, while fulfilling their decorative purpose.

All bath finishes must have the following properties:

Hygienicity.
Fire safety.
Hypoallergenicity.
Wear resistance.
Strength.
Durability.
Aesthetic appeal.

The most suitable under these qualities material is perhaps a tree.
But the success of the interior decoration depends not only because it is made of natural raw materials. The performance characteristics of the lining itself are also important. It must be extremely high quality and not defective. If such a material is purchased over and not to give him the opportunity to get used to the climate of the bath, then during the finishing work, it will certainly begin to change its structure and remove.

Perhaps the most important room of this kind of premises is a steam room. Therefore, its inner cladding should be carried out at a high level. Since this room is an epicenter of the maximum temperature, then for its finishes it is necessary to apply such materials that under the influence of heat will not begin to evaporate the harmful products of chemistry. Traditional elements of the frame of the walls of the steam are deciduous species of wood. It can be birching luminous, lime or aspen. The main advantage of these candidates is the inability under the action of high temperature to highlight the resin. Also, deciduous options are not incandes and quickly dry, which will not allow fungus and mold on the surface of the walls.

The finish is a clear - no less worthy solution, since this type of wood has incredible strength and external attractiveness. Another old-Russian carpentry was erected by solid baths from such wood. The ash was valued with his durability and invulnerability before the processes of rotting.

And also acceptable inner lining of walls by foam block and other olhov material. Such a solution will provide the bath strength, invulnerability and the absence of extraneous odors. Moreover, the wood of this type has a pleasant bright shade with an admixture of pink, it is smooth in its structure and is often used by European builders in the Sun trim.

In this decision favorably use coniferous wood. Because of the high heating threshold, the facing material is perfect for pre-tribia and relaxation rooms. Moreover, the needles at a moderate temperature mode, not a resin, but a pleasant smell of wood. By the way, for the manufacture of furniture for such premises, shops or tables, for example, these breeds are still favorable and universal.

Natural evaporation from facing repeatedly has a healthy effect on the nervous system and respiratory tract, which has a beneficial effect on human well-being, and the phytoncides contained in the needle increase and strengthen the immune system. Experienced builders love to use a firboard in the trim walls, as it has moisture-repellent properties and has a beautiful, with a yellowish color.

With internal work in the bath it is allowed to use not only such a type of material. So, the walls of the washer can be seduced by applying gypsum-fiber products, drywall, wooden pebbles, tiles and even plastic plates. When using HCL sheets, you need to choose a material painted in a green color. Such a designation speaks of moisture resistance of drywall.

For this kind of premises, important quality is comfort, beauty and hygienicity. The material of the lining of pine is the most popular solution taken by many builder joiners. In addition, the purchase of such a board will not be expensive due to its economy.

Pine lining is produced in various color variations, from a slightly yellowish to a red shade. Among its main advantages are the quality of the strength, lightness of installation and availability, and the resins that are distinguished from the tree under the influence of heat and steam are now practical benefit, thus preventing the processes of rotting. As a variant of the facing of the pre-banner walls, the pine lining is also good because it can be repainted at any time or subjected to subsequent decorative trim. Although, because of an attractive drawing, few people agree to the change in the natural color of the pine.

Among the coniferous rocks suitable for plating the walls of the rest room in the bath, no less popular is spruce. It is the same attractive and affordable. Having a pleasant smelling evaporation, the spruce board is circling the head of the bathhouse. Like each building material, it has its own negative features. This is a small resin content, difficulty in processing, less moisture resistance.

As you can see, the construction of the bath does not require special knowledge in construction. So, armed with several pairs of hand-helpers, you can quickly quickly install the design. At the same time, the construction does not imply the use of any hard-to-reach instruments and materials. The only snag is that an extra time is required to shrink the walls and roofs. But without it, do not come to a positive result, and the bath will lose the possibility of faithfully to serve its owners.

(No ratings no)

Those who intend to build a sauna or a bath from a bar, and even from scratch, you need to gradually solve quite a few tasks. Select the project and material, explore the video and tips on the construction of a church with your own hands. Detailed instructions are in this article.

Bath bar: how to choose

Defined with what to build a bath, many owners are not accidental preferring to Brus. In his favor, such characteristics testify:

the ability to keep warmly well;
aesthetics;
minimum shrinkage;
environmental friendliness;
ease of installation.

As in the log, in a bar from a bar smells like a tree, resins - as if in an old Russian steam room. This has a beneficial effect on the health of those who accept bath procedures. At the same time, it is cheaper to build such a building cheaper and more quickly than its analogue from the logs: the log cabin can be installed immediately on the foundation, and the finish should be carried out without waiting for a long shrinkage.

Perhaps the most significant flaws from the bar are only two: a tendency to rot and high fire hazard.

Council. The bar can be gluing and profiled. The first is more expensive, but it is distinguished by strength and is not deformed. The profiled timber is, in fact, the log that attached a certain form. Due to the presence of spikes and grooves it is easier to connect. But the shrinkage of such log cabins can occur for quite a long time.

The choice of material is more than responsible task. It is believed that the construction is most suitable for the construction, which spilled from December to March. For all the rules, it is stored on the substrate and dries about a month under natural ventilation. By buying a bar or getting it out of our own stocks, pay attention to such nuances:

The presence of cracks is a serious defect. Even small gaps will expand over time, becoming the cause of wood rotting.
Little holes - a sign that bugs settled in the bar.
Blue stains say that the material began to refuse. Naturally, it is not suitable for construction.

Design and fill foundation

What a sauna should be - depends only on the preferences of its owner. Convenient if after the steam room you like gatherings with a kebab in the fresh air. In a bath with an attic, you can equip an extra room and accommodate guests there. But the glazed veranda is a great place for summer kitchen or billiard room.

If you are planning to build a two-story building, make a durable tape foundation. Otherwise, you can do the simplest columnar. The ribbon is laid at a depth of at least 0.5 m.

Technology:

I dug the ditch, on its bottom, embark on sand or gravel (layer thickness - 15 cm).
Make a wooden formwork.
Inside, equip the frame from the reinforcement.
Make the fill with concrete.

For columnar foundation:

Around the perimeter, as well as in the corners of the future bath, dig a pits to 40 cm deep. The distance between them should be about 1.5 m.
In each of the channels, make a 15-centimeter sand pillow.
Install the brick columns in the pits. Their height is about 0.5 m.
When bookmarking the foundation for greater strength, reinforce the poles.

Attention! In any case, do not forget about waterproofing. To do this, on the surface of the foundation, apply a softened bitumen and cover it with a layer of rubberoid. When everything freezes, repeat the same again.

Walling. Bruz connect in corners: ways

For the first row (crown) of the bath, experienced masters are recommended to take a bar having a section 20 x 20. For all other crowns, the material is suitable with parameters 15 x 15. The main thing is that the length of all instances is the same. Construction of walls consists of such steps:

Laying on the foundation of the rail at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. This is an additional insulation for timber. Reiki must have a thickness of no more than 0.15 cm and be treated with an antiseptic.
Location of the first row of Bruusyev. Previously, they should be treated with special antiseptic solution or conventional machine oil. Before the connection, make sure that the surface is strictly horizontal. Use for this level.
3. The wedding of the first row bars and filling the space between the rails of the mounting foam.

Council. For the first crown (sruba series), take the timber from larch or oak. These breeds are well tolerated humidity.

Laying over the first crown of the insulation layer, for example, from a pacular or moss. This is relevant for all subsequent rows of Bruusyev.
Location and consolidation of the second crown. For connection, use wooden brazers or metal pins. For them, holes must be drilled in advance. If you take nails - it is better that you can "drown" in the wood, because on the surface of the hats rust and the cause of the rotting of the bar.
Laying the remaining rows. You do not need to customize them. The last two crowns are better not to connect, because you have to remove them during the roof mounting.

Brussia can be connected to each other longitudinally, as well as in the corners. The first option is used when instances are shortened in order to put them in full length of the wall (for example, a 4-meter bar is used for a bath 6 x 6). In other cases, you can resort to the angular connection. It happens with the residue when the speakers of the bar remain in the corners, and without it.

The first method is considered more reliable and much more attractive from a designer point of view. It has 3 mount options:

1-bit;
2-bit;
4-bit.

The number indicates the number of grooves that are cut into the bar. The optimal compound is obtained as a result of a 4-sided clutch, although this work is the most time consuming. Fastening without a residue, which makes a jack, on the keys or spikes, is considered less reliable for the bath, so it is better not to use it.

How to make windows and doors in the bath. Roof construction

Placeing the bars, you can make a small gap in the ranks - where windows and doors are planned. After the log house is ready and takes place for shrinkage, you should cut the openings with chainsaws. But there is another option: to make windows and the door immediately, in the construction process. For this, they will need special grooves and instances of bars with an endless word. The second method requires more time, and as a result of the shrinkage, the finished windows and doors can be deformed.

The roof on the bath can be a single - quick and inexpensive. It is mounted from transverse lags that are harvested at an angle. In this case, the precipitate will not linger on the roof. Diva roof is a good option, if you need to equip a attic or a rest room under it. Installation of rafters and coatings from Oberesatin is more convenient to do on Earth, and then put the finished design on the log house. It can be covered with metal tile, rubberoid or ondulin.

Council. Different materials for the roof are optimal for different angles of inclination. For example, 5 ° is suitable for runneroid, and for ondulina - 30 °. Take this feature when choosing a coating.

Bath from a bar do it yourself: video

Construction Baths from Bruus: Photo

We offer to build the most simple and cheap, but quite comfortable small bath, the size of which make it possible to place it anywhere in the site, and the available technology and low price allows everyone if you wish to have such a bathhouse. The size of the structure is only 3 × 3 meters, height is 2 meters, the bath has a combined steam room and a washing plate and a lounge. All construction work should be made based on the requirements.

For a small baths, choose cheap, but in quality quite satisfactory materials. What do you need to prepare?

Table of building materials

Materials	number	Illustration
Cement M400.	150 kg
Sawn ram 150 × 150 mm	3.5 m3
	0.3 m3.
	25 m / p.
	0.5 m3
	0.3 m3.
	500 pcs.
	10 m2.
	30 pcs.

Nails and self-tapping screws of various sizes, metal corners for the rafter system, construction fittings, windows and doors. Windows and doors can be made independently (cheap, but for a long time, and quite difficult) or buy already ready (quickly and in the end will cost cheaper). The insulation will be required, electrical cables and fittings.

All materials we specifically gave with a margin. First, with each construction without unproductive waste, it is not necessary. Secondly, sawn timber and hardware will always be useful in the farm. There is an opportunity and desire - can make water, plums. There is no desire or possibilities - the bath and so will "function", only water will have to be in the boiler installed in the furnace (for hot) and in the barrel (for cold) buckets. We choose the easiest option - we will not engage in engineering plumbing systems.

Stages of construction baths

For simplicity of understanding of technology, we break the entire process of building a cut into several stages:

foundation;
logboard;
roof;
floors;
window and doorways;
electric wiring;
outer and interior walls.

Foundation

We choose the column concrete.

Step, Nos.	Description
	We do markup on the ground. In terms of the sizes of a bath 3 × 3 meters, the distance between the columns is 1.5 meters. The septum between the rooms is not carrying, the foundation is not necessary under it. Around the perimeter to drive the pegs and pull the rope between them. By ropes, mark the position of intermediate columns.
Step 2.	Drop the pits with a depth of 50 ÷ 60 cm, a width of approximately 40 cm, at the bottom, make a sandy pillow with a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 cm.
Step 3.	If the ground is clay - the formwork does not need to do, pour concrete right into the pits. Give concrete time to set up for about two weeks.
Step 4.	You will place the location of the furnace, on our project it will be located between the combined steam room with a wax and recreation room - this location will allow you to warm up two rooms at once. Under the furnace you need to make the foundation of the dealer, it is desirable to the depth of freezing of the soil. But if the furnace is not very complex and massive, then sufficiently depth 1 m, the sand pillow make a thickness of 25 ÷ 30 cm. If you are still afraid that in the winter the foundation can "undergo" - put the foam plates with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 cm in the perimeter. They will perceive the swelling efforts, the foundation will remain fixed under any climatic conditions. How to put the stove is a big and interesting topic, for its consideration you need a separate article.
Step 4.	We recommend not to pour them, but to mule from concrete blocks with dimensions of 20 × 30 × 60 mm. First, focus a little concrete at the base, use a hydroelectric and cement-sandy solution for this. Next, put the extreme column, with the help of cement-sandy solution, align in height and place intermediate columns. At the same time, "Tighten" the foundation for the furnace, it should be higher than the columns on the height of the bars, the beams of the floor and the genital board.

Foundation columnal (with the first crown)

Cutting and logberry

There are many different options for connecting BRUSEV (see photo), we will use the simplest: in the corners in the paw, and end connections in Polterev without a residue.

Step 1. Once again, check the distance between the columns, if there are problems - they hang a little.

Step 2.. It is very desirable to process the first crown (and better and two) antiseptic means. We put them on two or three layers of rubberoid. Place the position of window and doorways on the first crown. We put the first row, in the corners, be sure to be bonded, it is advisable to put and intermediate braided.

In the photo - waterproof columns and laid first crown

Prices for rubberoid

ruberoid

Step 3. Put the beams of the lower overlap, the distance between them is 1.2 ÷ 1.5 meters, the connection in the Poltera without a residue. Take a very carefully to this stage, correct the mistakes will be very difficult, and often impossible. You will have to disassemble and do everything from the beginning. Corners can not be styled, for a small bathing it is optional, just the ends of the bar in these places place in a chess order.

Step 4. For interventional insulation, modern belt insulation or traditional passage can be used. With ribbon, of course, work easier and faster. Each crown must be checked in spatial position.

Step 5. Through a series, we set wooden or metal brazening, the distance between them is about a meter. In the corners of the window and doorways, they must be made at the removal of no more than 20 cm from the edge.

Agel - Photo

It is very important - a hole under the heel drill strictly vertically, the bell must enter it with a gap. Otherwise, during a natural shrinkage and sweeping, the ranks of the bath can be saved. The brace must hold 1 ÷ 2 row of a log.

Step 6.. Install the ceiling beams. It is necessary to put them, not reaching two rows until the end of the church. The approximate height of the bath is two meters, but if you get a little more or a little less - there is nothing terrible, it is not critical. The ceiling beams are flooded in a pollese without a residue, for our small bath it is enough to install two ceiling bars.

Step 7. Put two top rows of timber.

IMPORTANT - they need to be fixed with the brackets very firmly, should be copied to the holes with the effort. This is done so that the rafter system does not "moved" the crowns - the last row will perform the function of Mauerlat.

Step 8.. Severe the temporary ceiling, use for this any boards, grab them only in several places, after performing work on the roof they are removed.

Video - Bath from Brous

Video - Brous Connections

The main task in the construction of any building from the bar is as quickly as possible to bring it under the roof, all subsequent works can be performed in slower. In this way, go and we.

Roof

There are two options: double or single pick-up. For a bath size of 3 × 3, you can use the easiest option - a single-way inclined.

If you stopped at this option, then the ceiling must be done immediately. For the bath it needs to be insulated, you can choose mineral wool (much more and more complicated) or foam (it will cost cheaper and faster). Let's focus on a simple version - foam insulation. It is not afraid of moisture, there is no need to apply various vapor and hydroboirers for him.

Prices for foam insulation

pSB polyfoam insulation

Installing insulation is needed in several stages:

scroll down the cutting boards to the ceiling beams, the thickness is enough 20 mm;
place foam plates on them. Place them as close as possible, do not allow gaps. Polyfoam perfectly cuts out a special carpentry knife for a ruler. During the markup period, provide for the size of 1 ÷ 1.5 cm more - the foam during the stacking will be squeaked, the insulation will become hermetic;
save on top on the beams any boards, it can be different segments, a hill, etc. The main requirement for them is to withstand the weight of people during the roof arrangement. After the completion of roofing works on the roof no one will no longer walk.

If the roof is double, then make a temporary ceiling, and the insulation can be made later. Is everything prepared? Excellent, we build a roof.

№№	Illustration	Description and explanations
Step 1.		Check the vertical position and size of the upper crown. The dimensions are normal - excellent, there are significant deviations horizontally - not a problem, align the horizontal rafters.
Step 2.		Determine the angle of inclination. We recommend an inclination angle of about 20 °. Another important point - in which direction rainwater will die, consider the features of the site, the location of the entrance doors and the features of already standing buildings.
Step 3.		Make the stop for the rafter at the calculated height. To make it easy - install vertical supports from the bars of the specified height, put a horizontal bar on them. The distance between the supports is approximately 1.5 meters. The design can be collected without stamps, it is enough to use metal corners and screws. In order for the emphasis to withstand the angular efforts to secure it with the help of corner boards to overlapping beams.
Step 4.		Measure the length of the rafter with departure. For our case, 3.2 meters is enough. For a rafted, use 50 × 100 mm boards, a 3 × 3 meter bath is enough 6 pieces.
Step 5.		Set the extreme rafters, pull the rope between them and put all the others. For fixing to beams, there are more reliably to make scubons, you have no desire or skill - use metal corners.
Step 6.		As a roof cover, we chose Ondulin - one of the cheapest and quite quality materials. Use various advertised hydroborals is not worth it. First, if you correctly place the roofing material - there will be no leaks. Secondly, if they are, then no barriers will help: they will be saved under the severity and will be bored with time.
Step 7.		Obsek. Ontulin is in many ways similar to the ordinary asbestos slate, the difference is less physical characteristics for the perception of vertical effort. This means that the crate should be placed more often, each sheet of ondulina must rely on four rails. The distance between the rails is 35 ÷ 40 cm. It is possible to use narrow unedged boards instead of the rails, according to the cost, they almost do not differ, but during the navigation of the ondulin, it is less likely that the nail "goes nowhere".
Step 8.		Carefully align the first row, do not hurry to immediately arrive sheets, it is advisable to lay out the whole range and check its position, and only then take the hammer and nails. Ontulin can be attached to ordinary slate nails, fixation is performed in the upper wave. The lower the angle of the slope, the greater there should be overlap of sheets. In our case, sheets should be overlapped at about ten centimeters. Be careful not to overdo the scoring effort, do not damage the wave. There is a desire - set the drainage system.
Step 9.		Drink spaces of space between the rafters and the wall of the bath from the elevation of the skate, install the wind boards.

All, urgent works are made, the log house can be left for the winter. During this time, the bath will give shrinkage, relative humidity stabilizes to natural values. If there is a desire to quickly wash in your own bath - continue construction work.

For a small bath lags, it is not necessary to establish. The distance between the floor overlap beams within one meter, take the boards to the thirty, they will not be fed.

Important note - do not press with a lot of effort the floorboards, during wetting they can take.

It is extremely desirable to make a small floor clone towards the rain racks for water drain. You can install the grille in this place, and you can leave and so - the water will still find the slot and leave. There are no special taps of water. First, the columnar foundations will allow water to absorb without any problems. Secondly, a small bath means a small water consumption. For the tilt of the floor, it should be put on the beams of overlapping wooden lining, the tilt of the floor do small, arrange 2 ÷ 3 °.

Video - How to make the floor with insulation in the bath

Wiring

The main requirement is strictly performing PUE positions (rules for installing electrical equipment). Let's give several practical advice.

Video - Wiring Bath

Video - Lighting in the bath

It is difficult to make the windows and the doors to make the windows, you need not only to have experience, but also special equipment and machines. It is more convenient to buy ready-made products, including metal-plastic. To install them, you need to perform several consecutive operations.

Step 1. It is necessary to align existing openings in size, no one embedded each bar during the masonry of the cut. Mark the linear dimensions and gasoline or electric saw on the wall or a electric saw protrusion protruding outside the dimensions of the ends of Bruusyev.

Step 2. 50 × 150 mm boards make boxes for windows and doors. It is not necessary to collect them in the spike, it is enough to drive ordinary nails along the ends. It is very important - leave the distance of 3 ÷ 4 centimeters between the top bar and the box on the shrink shrink. No longer needed, the bath has a small height.

Step 3.. Insert the prepared boxes in the openings and nails or self-stakes to fix them. The slot at the top of the box will be warm, you can use a pass or mounting foam.

Video - Features of the preparation of openings in the house from the bar before installation of windows / doors

Video - Planning, Okosyanka window openings in a wooden house

Windows and doors are inserted by an ordinary method. Now you can proceed to the trim in the inner and external walls.

Let's start with the internal. For wage and washing, it is necessary to apply only natural lining, you can use any other materials from plywood or osp to plastic lining. Test technology Consider on the example of lining, with all other materials it is easier to work.

This is an important operation, requires great care. For the frame, use 20 × 50 mm rails, pre-mark up. The wall should be smooth, all large bulges must be eliminated.

Step 1. Speak at the corners of extreme rail levels, pull the rope between them and install the remaining rails, the distance between them is 40 ÷ 50 cm.

Step 2.. Check the distance between the floor and the boat corners. If there is a difference - eliminate it with the first and last rows of lining. Leave small slots (1 ÷ 2 cm) between the clapboard, floor and ceiling. The gaps will be closed by plinths. Ceiling plinths (baguettes) are nailed to the clap, and not to the ceiling, otherwise, during oscillations of the wall dimensions, the trim deformation is possible.

Step 3.. For fixing the lining, use nails with a length of 1.5 ÷ 2 cm, you need to drive them into the lining groove.

Fastening lining kleimer

For external sheat, you can use any materials, the stages of the work of the usual. If the bath is small and cheap - choose inexpensive materials. Modern building technologies allow them to do beautiful and with good quality. Windows and doors are trimmed with platbands.

Finishing direction	Illustration	Basic information
Vertical		The vertical mount of the panels has a big drawback - at the length of the board, it is unevenly warmed up, which is negatively reflected on the service life. Vertical covering is optimally suitable for paired, operated mainly under conditions of high temperature and low air humidity, i.e. In the sauna mode. To ensure more efficient air circulation in the space between the insulation and the clapboard, several holes are usually drilled in the trim.
		In the case of horizontal location, the temperature deformations of the material manufacturing material will be much less noticeable. Horizontally oriented finish allows you to visually expand a small pair. With horizontal mounting of the panels behind them, more efficient air circulation will be provided - in such a situation, the covering will be attached to a vertically-oriented frame, as a result of which the gap will also be vertical. In addition, with such an orientation of the rodent frame, it will be much more difficult to get into the space behind the trim. Horizontal lining is attached noticeably faster and easier than vertical. Important! If you decide to orient the finishing panels horizontally, control the groove "watched" down.