Do-it-yourself frame scaffolding. Wooden scaffolding. Wedge mobile scaffolding

During the construction, decoration, repair of low-rise buildings, it is possible to confidently perform the work above only on scaffolding, which it is quite possible to do with your own hands from wood.

It is not profitable for the owners to buy metal structures, because they are expensive and are not used so often.

Homemade scaffolding can be made from stock available in home gardens. If there is not enough of this, you can buy boards and beams, and at the end of construction, use them for other needs.

Materials for forests

It is important that the wooden blanks are dry, strong, so the presence of knots, cracks, and other defects on them is unacceptable. If possible, it is advisable to buy materials from spruce, pine usually has more flaws. In principle, you can use any durable wood, the reliability of which needs to be checked on the eve of construction.

To do this, bricks, cinder blocks, and large stones of a suitable shape are placed on two low supports.

You should put a board with a thickness of 30 mm, stand on top of it and jump several times. This should be done by a person with good reaction and coordination in order to safely land on the ground in case of failure. If the board passes the test, it can be used for scaffolding.

To erect a building structure with your own hands, you will also need bars with a square section and a side length of 100 mm, a tape measure, a circular saw will help a lot.

Self-tapping screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are understandable. Nails are easy to hammer and provide strength to the scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The disadvantage is that the building structure is almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this respect, they can be unscrewed without damaging the wooden surfaces, but they are characterized by great fragility. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break on impact or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger; they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works with his own hands on the site and the wood is needed in the most complete form, you can use anodized self-tapping screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Design options

You can make various types of scaffolding with your own hands, the choice of a specific option depends on the specifics of the upcoming work.

Scaffold

If you plan to decorate the house with light materials, then the scaffolds are quite enough, for the manufacture of which less material and time are required. There are two types of attached structures, the diagram of each resembles the letter G.

The location of the building scaffold is different:

in one case, the short horizontal part of the letter G rests on the wall, and its vertical part is slightly recessed under the working load into the ground;
in the scaffolds of the second type, the vertical part of the letter G abuts against the wall. All weight is concentrated on the thrust elements, the upper part of which is driven into a corner - the junction of the two main bars.

The structure is often called Armenian forests, and the vertical part in them can be shortened, then the scaffolds take the form of a triangle, against the base of which the board rests. All the load is concentrated on it.

Despite the fact that the scaffolding does not seem very reliable, in practice their strength and ease of use have been proven many times over. Triangular scaffolds should be located every meter, if possible, they are nailed to the wall, if there is none, then they are fixed with stops. For safety reasons, the place of immersion of persistent bars into the ground is additionally knocked over with wedges.

To make sure that the scaffolding does not move sideways along the wall, the stops are additionally sewn with bars, which increases the rigidity of the structure. All thrust bars, boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm, boards are also placed on the flooring with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The horizontal surface is nailed or fixed with self-tapping screws, otherwise it is dangerous to move on them.

Construction goats

Wooden scaffolding with such an interesting name is known to everyone, because they are often used both at construction sites and in the overhaul of apartments. The convenience of building gantries is that they do not lean on the wall, they allow cladding with siding and many other facing materials.

Standing on the upper part of the construction gantry, you can fix both the upper and lower parts of the panels, then move the structure and continue working on the adjacent section of the wall. Between the racks of such wooden scaffolding, crossbars are stuffed, they strengthen the structure, and at the same time perform the function of a ladder. The racks on one side can be fixed strictly vertically, which will allow you to place the portable scaffolding close to the wall.

Complete scaffolding

The arrangement of traditional wooden scaffolding has not changed over the years. It is well known to everyone from the films of the Soviet years and posters on which charming girls, standing in the forests, life-affirming smiles at enthusiastically working young men.

To make such scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a lot of lumber, the advantage of the design is that it can withstand a heavy load, allows you to carry out work of any degree of complexity.

Before starting to collect scaffolding, you should stock up in advance with boards 50 mm thick, bars for crossbars up to 1 m long. At the first stage, racks are made of long bars or boards connected by crossbars. Scaffolding will be especially stable if the racks are positioned at an angle, rather than strictly vertical.

Depending on the future load on the flooring, the thickness of the boards on it, the racks are placed at a distance of 1.5 to 2.5 m from each other and reinforced with jibs. The number of crossbars and jibs is never superfluous, the more there are, the more stable the forests will be.

Note! If the height of the structure exceeds 3 m, then the vertical beams of the racks are supported with additional jibs resting on the ground.

Last of all, on the bars located along the perimeter of the racks from above, a flooring of boards is laid, which are carefully examined the day before. The surface is laid in such a way that no cracks or gaps are formed at the joints, it turns out a canvas similar to the floor in wooden huts. On such a floor, workers can confidently focus on their immediate responsibilities without fear of failure. At high altitudes, it is quieter to work in the presence of handrails; they must be made of durable material without cracks or other defects.

It is quite possible to make full-fledged construction goats from lumber with your own hands in a short time if you have working skills and a minimum set of tools, preferably with an electrical power system.

Features of metal scaffolding

If you do not find a great desire to make scaffolding made of wood with your own hands, you can purchase a ready-made metal structure. The costs, of course, will be noticeable, but on such scaffolds it is possible to carry out construction work of any degree of complexity with large loads on the supports and decking.

Metal scaffolding is convenient because it can be disassembled with your own hands at the end of construction, folded into a utility room and then used when carrying out repair work in the future.

The industry produces several types of metal structures:

pin;
clamp;
frame;
wedge.

In pin scaffolding, pin-shaped hinges are welded on upright posts, and the crossbeams end with hooks designed for connection. The assembly is simple and quick, it is convenient to work on such scaffolding with buildings of standard shapes, if you have to finish the ledges, curly bay windows, it is better to choose a different base.

Forests with a height of no more than 40 m are made from metal pipes, which are fixed with special clamps. Assembly can be done by hand; if necessary, such scaffolding can be easily moved to a new location. It is not recommended to work with very heavy loads on them, because the clamp mountings have load restrictions.

Often metal scaffolding is produced in the form of modules from frames, which are welded from pipes and reinforced with jibs. The structure can be lengthened and increased in height with the help of additional modules. One section usually has a height of 2 m, a length of one and a half to 3 m, the depth of the horizontal part is usually 1 m.

Wedge scaffolds made of metal have more complex joints, consisting of discs with holes welded to vertical posts, and pipes with special locks, reminiscent of the mouth of predators. The lock is wound on the disk, a wedge is inserted into the matching through hole. Scaffolding can be easily assembled and disassembled with your own hands, transferred wherever required, it is convenient to perform any work on them.

You need to choose the type of scaffolding carefully, taking into account the specifics of the work ahead, the load and financial capabilities. You can buy lumber and make the structure completely with your own hands, or buy ready-made metal products that you just have to assemble.

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore one cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you do not have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They are made of wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Scaffolding design and types

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

support posts;
stairs;
decks and lintels for him;
enclosing railings;
stops;
horizontal and diagonal braces.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together by nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and re-assembly will be less durable, since holes from nails remain in the bars. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

Depending on the fastening methods, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Types of forests	Description
frame	metal structures made of vertical frames, fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install.
wedge	very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pin	rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but are too expensive and put a lot of pressure on the ground
yoke	they are versatile scaffolding, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to collect wood scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring is at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding is a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is made.

For work you will need:

timber 100x100 mm;
boards 30 mm thick;
boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
nails;
a hammer;
level;
roulette;
Circular Saw.

The wood must be firm and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier, moreover, after drying, it can deform. Since scaffolding is required only for the construction or decoration of the house, it is not necessary to treat them with antiseptic compounds and do not need to sand.

Step 1. Making the frame

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and placed on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m and 2 beams of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4-meter ones - along the bottom. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are raised, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with the sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m.Check the location of the sidewalls horizontally with the building level, and if everything is correct, they firmly knock the frame with nails. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls from a bar.

Step 3. Installation of the flooring

The floorboards must be nailed to the upper cross-bars. It is best to fill them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional cross-members are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.

Prices for various types of building boards

Construction boards

Assembling metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Workpieces for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal ones is 96 cm, the diagonal ones are 2 m. After that, 6 cm long cuts are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the studs.

Step 2. Making adapters

To build up the scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces with a length of 30 cm, and blanks with a length of 8 cm are cut from pipes 30x30 mm. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to eliminate shifts.

Step 3. Assembling the frame

Two vertical posts are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The resulting frame is in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates of 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4. Section installation

Two frames are installed vertically opposite one another and diagonal struts are tried on. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all parts to each other and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with the level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to resist on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Decking boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted on the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, reinforced from below with transverse bars from deflection.

To prevent the flooring from moving during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark a line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markings are made from the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the deck is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will prevent the boards from moving.

Step 5. Painting the forests

Metal scaffolds are designed for reusable use, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame is covered with corrosion from dampness, especially in the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolds, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to protect it from moisture and decay.

Prices for poles, shaped pipes

Poles, shaped pipes

Video - DIY scaffolding

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you.

The article will tell you about the requirements for individual elements and construction in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders used for lifting and working at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since work at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on the scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembling / disassembling the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
Economy. The structure must contain the permissible minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolds are professional and expensive products. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffoldings that exactly match the structure of the building.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. You should pay special attention to them.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - are transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (ground). Rack requirements:

Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be broken, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excessive wane or holes.
The board must not be affected by insects.

Particular attention should be paid to the vertical splice assembly. The elements should be connected "end-to-end", not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transmit it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for the racks. One additional requirement: Spliced cross members must not be used without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and staggered are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal ties connecting the posts of different rows. The use of slats, slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install the braces of the maximum length in order to tie the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops supporting the structure to prevent it from deviating from the wall. Usually a board of 25 mm is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe structure. These rules are derived from the safety requirements and the experience of high-altitude craftsmen:

The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the posts is not less than 500 mm.
For each node - at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point mounting - pitch 50–70 mm staggered.
Use heavy-duty self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them on the back side.
Always install the handrails on the inside of the rack.
Use a frontal board (guardrail at the deck).
Racks at the mating point must be trimmed.
The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Assembling scaffolding

To create a wooden scaffold structure, you need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
Putting together an "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90 °. Misalignments can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a brace.
We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a brace at the maximum height so that they stand unsupported.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Slide the floorboard onto the crossbars and fix it. Reinforce the brace.
Fasten the flooring from above with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the rest of the "envelopes" and the flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice the deck between the supports! The joint of the planks or flooring sheets must be on the crossbar!

Install the handrail and frontal board.
Tie the structure to the wall if possible.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

The scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly should be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Accessories for the device of wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device should correspond to the section of the board.

Triangular bracket

This bracket can be wood or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. For the device of the flooring on its basis, several boards for the ladder are sufficient. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installation of anything from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and care is required.

Mason's Express Scaffold

Created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while it is quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Mason's scaffold on video

Whichever type of scaffold or forest you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can turn into unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Wood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive building materials to process. Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. The production of scaffolding will consist of 5 consecutive stages, after completing which you will receive a structure that is completely ready for work. Required tools for work:

It is much cheaper to make wooden scaffolding yourself than to buy it from specialized stores.

screwdriver;
plane;
drill;
hacksaw for wood;
roulette.

Preparation and selection of materials

The construction of the scaffold is such that several types of wood must be used for different parts. In order to prepare the bearing supports, you will need a beam of at least 10x10 cm in size, otherwise you will not be able to perform heavy work from such scaffolding. The platforms themselves are made of fairly thick boards (preferably at least 50 mm thick). Stiffeners are made of boards from 25 mm in thickness. It should be remembered that the wood used must be treated with special agents that protect the material from decay and mold. It is desirable that there are no cracks and knots on the material, then the scaffolding will last longer. For safety reasons, you can also add railings to the structure.

Calculation of frame dimensions and start of collection

Scheme of scaffolding made of wood.

In construction, there are restrictions on the minimum permissible scaffold width, it must be at least 50 cm. The recommended scaffold length is 3-4 m, and the safe height should not exceed 6 m, otherwise the scaffolding may topple over during operation. When selecting material for supports from a bar, one should give preference to a solid, rather than a composite bar, as this will increase the strength of the future product. To increase the stability of the entire structure, it is better to make the end sides at a converging angle.

DIY scaffolding can be assembled from a small amount of materials. At the beginning of the first stage, two six-meter support beams are placed on a horizontal surface. The distance between them is equal to the planned length of the future structure. Two of the same beams are stacked side by side in the same way. In this case, the upper ends of a pair of bars should converge slightly, i.e. if the distance between the lower ends of the pair is 3 m, then the distance between the upper ends should be 2.4 m. This is necessary to increase the stability of the structure. Further, the sidewalls are attached to the support beams, which will serve as a support for the floorings (ordinary self-tapping screws are used for fasteners). The supports should be mounted from the inside. There will be 4 sidewalls from the timber, since it is not recommended to make scaffolding above three "floors" Three sidewalls will be used for decking, and one, the lower one, for reinforcement.

Integration and final assembly

Further, it is necessary to connect the side trapezoids obtained at the previous stage with side crossbars. If you nevertheless decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, then in order to avoid injury and loss of accuracy during docking, this operation should be performed by two or three people. It should be remembered that stable wooden scaffolding should be pyramidal, but the angle of convergence should not be large. The side crossbars are fastened with self-tapping screws, this is justified by the fact that after the end of construction work, the wooden scaffolding can be quite easily disassembled by unscrewing the screws and put for storage.

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, summer cottage or country cottage, then do not rush to give money for the finished product. In our material, we will share the best instructions on how to make a structure yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the most general sense, scaffolding is a frame device created from components and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to secure the activities of workers who work on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Varieties of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made of metal and wood. Now let's figure out what modifications are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are irreplaceable when using massive materials and knots. This means that you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant advantage is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. As the name suggests, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Framed. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest by a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with nodal fasteners with diagonal and horizontal racks. The cost won't hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at objects of increased importance. Produced in accordance with the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each of the types of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

lintels for flooring;
spacers;
enclosing element;
stops;
plank flooring;
racks;
stepladder (ladder).

2. Rules for assembling wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

The first step begins with a well-written drawing. Heed the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the posts is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of the jumpers for the initial deck is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one - mounts at an elevation from 180 to 200 cm.And finally, for the third, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

DIY scaffolding from boards implies the following materials:

boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or a bar with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed to process persistent braces and racks;
edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, ties and spacers;
screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling tall scaffolds, and the latter - at a break and for compact products.

Step # 1. Four racks are cut according to the height of the scaffolding. On a site cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step # 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step # 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen with ties (horizontal and diagonal).

Step # 4. We prepare a solid flooring from bars. Then we mount it securely on horizontal lintels.

Step # 5. Now comes the turn with direct manipulation of the forests. They are connected on two side abutments.

Step No 6. And only after that the railings and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Products from a profile pipe: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of forest is collected in a similar way. However, keep in mind some of the nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

Bolts with nuts and washers (ten of them). They are very easy to fix diagonal braces and then fix to the scaffold base posts.
Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25 × 25 mm or 35 × 35 mm. Provide an additional piece for the installation of the handrail. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
Purchase four plates for the heel pads. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10 × 10 cm.
For the racks and jumpers, take eight segments: equally equal to 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
Diagonal screeds must be formed from four sections (the optimal length is about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get down to work

The first thing to start assembling scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure rack to the OSB sheet, which is the assembly board. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
Next, the jumpers (horizontal) are securely attached to the racks, and only then the adapters (from parts of the pipes) are fixed to the upper ends of the racks (the optimal indentation is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
After that, the finished device (tandem of jumpers with racks) is first detached from the assembly board for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: the clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as the correct processing of thin-walled pipes (for diagonal braces). For our purposes, we hammer the ends and the middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get the spans for the bolts.
Very carefully (in the center) screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
We join the racks with ties with nuts and bolts.
Now we will deal with the handrails and posts separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
Foot pads (plates) are fastened to pieces of pipes. For this we use a welding machine.
At the final stage, the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
We make high-quality and solid flooring from an ordinary edged board, which is placed over the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "forty" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decided to assemble scaffolding on their own should know:

If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey the following logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent struts.
When you attach the screeds, then watch the alternation: on the scaffolds they are mounted on different sidewalls.
Not always, but during major repairs or large-scale construction, you may be faced with the need to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you cannot do without a profile pipe of a persistent cut, which serves for the stability of the forests. Action: Create holes in the posts.
Metal corners (3 * 3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted in the area of contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves dismantling the structure from top to bottom in the reverse sequence to installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations you need to:

inspect scaffolding flooring for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc .;
fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
make sure that the tools are in working order;
a safety belt is required if the structure has not been used for a long time and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of products are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Pay special attention to wall mounts, which are disassembled in a similar way: remove the hooks that are located above the tier subjected to manipulation. Craftsmen advise, when dismantling almost all scaffolding (except for the clamp variety), remove the component parts of the tier and lay it on the ground.

So let's get started.

First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fasteners above the deck of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
Secondly, let's move on to the deck board. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one in question.
Thirdly, the railings are removed from the stairwells, then the racks. And then - boards of platforms and stairs. And finally, it is the turn of the tier frame: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
Wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are overwritten with a special compound.

Throughout the entire process, you cannot do without ropes and pulleys - reliable lifting devices. Items received after dismantling must be inspected and packaged in order to store or transport the scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of installing scaffolding, it's time to put the knowledge gained into practice. And if you are seriously thinking about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order high-quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.