Repair Design Furniture

How to strengthen wooden floors. How to strengthen a wooden floor so that it does not creak: causes of creaking and ways to strengthen the floor with your own hands. We strengthen the floor by reinforcing wooden structures with overlays

Most wooden houses the construction of floors is used, in the manufacture of which wood is also used. Beams are made from this material. Given the significant load that they must withstand, it is often necessary to strengthen the floor logs in wooden house. This is quite simple to do if you know the features of these structures and the basic methods for performing such work.

Wooden logs - description and benefits of use

Logs made of wood are beams that are installed on bottom harness log house or on load-bearing wall structures. For manufacturing, a solid bar is almost always used, which has a square or round section. In some cases, in order to save wood, the owners of the building decide to build them from spliced ​​boards installed on the edge.

Usage wooden lag in the design of the ceiling and floor immediately provides a number of significant advantages:

  • features of wood allow you to get much more lightweight construction at equal height, for example, with reinforced concrete floor slabs;
  • jogged floor structure provides ventilation, which is essential for efficient use thermal insulation material and durability of the wood itself;
  • between the beams it is easy and convenient to lay any internal communications;
  • the design of the ceiling using beams allows for additional heat and sound insulation;
  • using lags various heights, you can easily even out even serious differences that have arisen due to errors in the construction of the log house;
  • the design of the floors allows, if necessary, to carry out any repair work without serious problems and large labor costs.

Given the number of advantages listed, it is quite logical that floors using wooden beams are the most common design solution today. This design is used for most houses made of logs or timber.

The need to reinforce wooden floor joists

Quite often it is required to strengthen the floor log in a wooden house. This is explained by the desire of the owner to play it safe, making the important supporting structure as reliable as possible and able to withstand any load. Other, less pleasant reasons for doing beam reinforcement work can be:

  • during operation, the load on the floor increased, exceeding the design parameter taken into account during construction;
  • load-bearing wooden structures partially lost strength characteristics due to decay, the appearance of fungus or microorganisms;
  • when designing the building, mistakes were made, as a result of which the cross section of the beams turned out to be insufficient for the normal operation of the building.

In each of these cases, deflections of the lag or the floor as a whole, as well as other types of deformations, can be observed. Of course, in such a situation, it is necessary to strengthen the floor beams in a wooden house as soon as possible. Otherwise, its operation will simply become unsafe for the inhabitants of the building.

Ways to reinforce wooden floor beams

When deciding to reinforce floor beams, two things should be taken into account: important moments. Firstly, possible options performance of work. Obviously, it is extremely important to produce them in such a way as to obtain the desired load-bearing capacity of the structure, while spending minimal amount money and time.

Secondly, you need to understand that to strengthen the lags of the second floor wooden house and basement beams are far from the same thing. Therefore, the choice of work method should be based on the location of structures in the building.

Strengthening the lag with overlays

One of the simplest and at the same time quite reliable methods of strengthening beams is the use of wooden or metal overlays. Before performing work, it is necessary to unload the floors. For this, temporary racks are installed, which can be built from timber, logs or jacks. The longer the lag, the more often you need to mount the supports. If the ceiling is bent, with the help of racks it is required to return it to a horizontal position.

Then linings are made, the section of which is selected based on the load exerted on the logs. When reinforcing the floor, they are usually made of timber, and when working to strengthen the floors, it is allowed to use steel strips having a thickness of at least 10 mm and a width. The width in this case is selected somewhat smaller than that of the lags. The overlay is attached to one or both sides of the beam, after which it is securely fixed with bolts with steel linings.

V Lately special carbon fiber was used to reinforce the beams. This material is effective when cracks appear in the structure. It is wrapped around the log and fixed using epoxy glue. After completion of the strengthening work, the temporary supports must be dismantled.

Strengthening floor beams with the use of prostheses

In this case, a prosthesis in construction means a small steel truss, which can be installed instead of the damaged area wooden beam. For its manufacture, metal bars are used or, which is even more efficient and reliable, a channel. Before performing work, the beams must be supported with racks, completely unloading.

After that, the defective area is dismantled, and a prosthesis is installed in its place. Then it is framed with wooden overlays in order to obtain a structure. desired thickness. It is recommended to perform such work with the invitation of professional builders, as they require careful calculation and accuracy.

Strengthening the lag of the interfloor overlap

One of the most simple options to strengthen the ceiling in a wooden house is the installation of supports that can unload the load-bearing structures of the floor. Of course, this method can hardly be called the best, since it creates certain inconveniences and takes away part of the useful internal space. A variation of this method is the installation of intermediate beams, devoid of these deficiencies.

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A board of suitable size is adjusted to the place intended for it, for which:

If the board is too thick, mark the positions of the log on it and choose grooves for them with a chisel;

If the board is very wide, cut the edges, beveling them a little down;

If the board is thin, thick cardboard or plywood is placed on the logs before it is fastened.

If old board sawn off next to the lag, a support bar is attached to the latter with screws for new board. (In the future, when replacing the board, the screws will be easier to remove.)

SOLVING LAGS PROBLEMS

A lot of warped places, sagging floors, cracked or damaged boards are signs of a bad state of the lag. Problems with lags most often occur on the first floors, where there is a high probability of moisture. But in any case, if you have to lift more than two boards, you need to check the state of the lag.

Rot and woodworms are immediately visible, and the logs affected by them must be repaired immediately. Darkening or the presence of areas with soft wood on the logs indicate the beginning of decay due to increased dampness. Lags can be saved if you take action in time.

The reasons for the sagging of the floor with serviceable lags can be:

Weakening of the lag due to selections for pipes and cables;

Insufficient initial strength of the lag or the material from which they are made.

These defects can be eliminated by reinforcing the joists with overlays or increasing their rigidity by inserting spacers between the joists. But for such repairs, a significant part of the floorboards will have to be removed.

If the board is sawn off near the log, a bar is fastened to the side of the latter with screws to support the new board.

On the floor of the first floor, you can reinforce the sagging log with an overlay resting on the nearest floor beams.

In a too thick floorboard, grooves are selected above the lags. Under a thin board, thick cardboard or plywood is placed on the logs.

criss-cross struts made of 50x50 mm bars. They are fixed in increments of 600 mm between the defective log and adjacent logs.

not less than 900 mm. Bolts are installed in increments of 300 mm. Between the lining and the lag, star washers are laid.

52 Professional Tips #3" 11


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How to strengthen beams and logs for floors. Wooden basement and attic ceilings and floors. Calculation of the reinforcement of the overlap.

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Wooden floors are simple and not required for installation lifting mechanisms, so they are predominantly used in individual construction.

Covers are:

    basement

    mansard

    interfloor

    attic

They differ in designs, but are carried out according to the same principle: boardwalk on wooden beams.

load-bearing elements- beams or logs, usually made of wood ( conifers), the humidity of which corresponds to air drying (at least 2-3 months of open drying). The bar for the beam can be replaced with two boards with overall cross section equal to the cross section of the beam. Boards are knocked down with nails in a checkerboard pattern. With more frequent laying, boards placed on edge can be used instead of beams.

Basement

When installing a basement above the cold underground cranial bars with a section of 40 × 40 mm are nailed to the lower part of the beams, on which scraps of slabs or uncut low-grade black floor boards are laid. Insulation is laid on the black floor, and a layer of glassine or roofing is laid on it. After that, a clean floor is laid from planed boards.

In houses with panel and frame walls the beams rest on the lower (basement) trim, and if it is not wider than the thickness of the walls, then on the protruding part of the foundation. If the foundation is narrow, concrete or brick pillars are installed to support the beams.

With long spans (for example, more than 3 m), it is more reliable and cheaper to install intermediate supports under the beams than to make them with a large section. beams covered with antiseptic, and in places of contact with the supports, two layers of roofing felt or roofing material are laid.

Attic floor (if the attic is not heated)

The design of the attic floor under the unheated attic is similar to the considered basement. But if the ceiling is not hemmed, then it is necessary to lay not a slab on the cranial bars, but planed boards, preferably with a quarter, as they will be the ceiling of the room. If the ceiling is hemmed, then the subfloor can be done, as in the basement.

Reliable and an easier option attic and attic floors, obtained when planed boards (lining) are nailed not to the cranial bars, but to the bottom of the beams. In this case, you immediately get a clean ceiling. Construction paper, glassine, old drawing paper or even two layers of newspapers are laid on top of it, and insulation, glassine and the floor along the beams are laid over them.

Attic floor (if the attic is heated)

When arranging an overlap between heated rooms insulation can not be installed in general or arrange it for soundproofing purposes. If the insulation is made to fill, from slag wool or fiberglass, then glassine, construction paper, cardboard, etc. must be laid under it.

In the attic floor, a layer of glassine is placed on the flooring boards or filing, and a heater is placed on top. Running boards are laid over the insulation (you can use a slab) or generally left open.

The device of floor beams

The ends of the beams of interfloor and attic floors in wooden buildings cut into the upper crowns for the entire thickness of the wall. In panel and stone houses, beams are placed on walls or led into nests specially left for them.

To prevent decay, a space of 30-50 mm is left between the ends of the beams and the walls, so the nests intended for laying the beams make several large sizes. Because the bottoms of all the jacks should be on the same level, they need to be aligned concrete mortar and lay 2-3 layers of roofing material or roofing on top.

Nest depth in stone walls usually is 200-250 mm, the ends of the beams are laid at a length of at least 150 mm. When preparing the ends, they are covered by 700-800 mm with an antiseptic, dried, tarred for the length of the bookmark, wrapped with two layers of roofing material (roofing). The ends of the beams are not closed and not tarred.

After laying in the nest, the side and upper sides of the beam are sealed with cement gravel mortar. Beams are located no closer than 400 mm from the inner surface of the chimney.

Warming

The thermal conductivity and sound conductivity of the house depends on a properly executed overlap. Ceilings, especially attic ones, are best insulated with ready-made mineral wool boards. You can also make fire-resistant slabs of sawdust concrete.

The density of such plates is 500-600 kg/cu.m., i.e. 1 sq.m. plates with a thickness of 10 mm weighs 5-6 kg. They are made from various materials: sawdust, clay dough, cement, water (1: 4: 0.3: 2) or sawdust, lime dough, cement, water (1: 1.5: 0.3: 2). Dry the plates under a canopy. They are laid on a preliminary coating of roofing. The seams are covered with clay or lime paste.

When organizing floors made of wood, they often use cross beam, especially for the premises located on the 1st floor. They can be made from wood, composite material made of concrete and steel, metal, etc.

What are wood logs

Cross beams are logs that are mounted on bricks or reinforced concrete base. They are made from a single bar made of square or round section. To save money, some owners perform them from spliced ​​boards installed on the edge.

Floors organized on wooden blocks

Advantages of using flooring on wooden bars

  • With the same lifting height, floors organized with the help of transverse beams have a much lower weight of the structure, for example, when compared with monolithic concrete.
  • The floor, organized in a similar way, is perfectly ventilated.
  • Between the bars of the flooring, you can put communications of a hidden type.
  • The floor, which has an undivided space under the flooring, can be additionally thermally insulated and soundproofed.
  • Floors of this type can be leveled even if they have a large difference in height.
  • The floor, which has a similar design, can be easily dismantled for reconstruction.

In order for the floors to be reliable and serve for a long time, the cross section of the beams must be correctly calculated. To do this, you can use specialized tables.

Beam section calculation table

However, there are similar situations when the floors need to be strengthened. This happens in the following ways:

  • the load on the floor increases, for example, due to the conversion of the attic floor into an attic;
  • damage to the load-bearing elements of wood, from which the floor was made, by fungal diseases or due to damage by rodents;
  • excess bearing capacity, for which the floor was originally calculated;
  • the first erroneous calculation of the section of wood elements, etc.

Attention! The floor is allowed to have a deflection of 1:300. In other words, if the beam is 3 meters long and the deflection is 10 mm, then this is an acceptable value, and no reinforcement is required.

There are several options for reinforcing the cross beams. Let's take a look at some of them.

We strengthen the floor by reinforcing wooden structures with overlays

It is done if cracks are found in wood structures or the floor begins to bend strongly.

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to unload the floors, and it may also be necessary to dismantle the coating. Unloading the structure is done by installing non-permanent racks of logs, timber or jacks. The number of racks and their cross section depend on the length of the span of the structure and the load.

If the cross beams are made of a solid log, it is allowed to install a single post at the deflection point. If the structures are composite, then several racks must be installed. In the place where the floors sag, a jack is installed, and with its help they bring the system to a horizontal position.

If the floor is bent due to the fact that from the very beginning a beam with a smaller diameter than required is used, then, using the table, calculate the required diameter. Further, the diameter of the beam is subtracted from the required value. The resulting value will give us a small lining thickness, which is used to build up the beam.

The overlay is placed on one or both sides and stitched to the outdated system using bolts with iron linings. They are necessary in order to eliminate the destruction of the tree under load at the attachment point.

To improve the floor, replace wood overlays iron can be used. In this variant, strips of metal 10 mm thick and 10–20% less than the width of the transverse beam are used. As in case wood overlays, iron are mounted on one or 2 sides of the structural element, only the number of fasteners is increased by approximately 25%. Metal before installation is finished with anti-corrosion compounds.

If gain is done when the timber is damaged, then a support should be installed, the damaged area removed, and this place should be treated with antifungal compounds. The pads themselves are also treated with an antifungal compound.

Gain beams using wood overlays

Gain can be done with carbon fiber, which is used, for example, if the beam is not damaged by a fungus, but cracks have formed in it.

In this version, the damaged part is wrapped with carbon fiber, which is attached using a specialized adhesive compound made from epoxy-based resin. similar material allows you to improve the design without increasing the thickness of the reinforced element. A layer of carbon fiber 1–5 mm is wound where it is necessary, depending on the planned load and the condition of the beam.

As soon as the repair work is completed, the supports are removed.

Gain wooden beams with prostheses

If the beam is damaged by a fungus or insects, then the floors can be repaired by reinforcing the structure with prostheses. The prosthesis is a specialized small iron farm, which is put in place of the damaged area.

Prostheses are made from a channel or welded with iron rods. For repair work on their own in this variant, it is better to use a channel, since it is of standard size, and you only need to choose a suitable prosthesis. Due to its shape, the channel perfectly resists existing floor loads.

Attention! For the production of a prosthesis from iron rods, it is necessary to make a rather complicated strength calculation, and therefore it is recommended to entrust this matter to a professional.

To improve the floors, use prostheses made from a channel or a metal rod.

Often, damage occurs in that part of the beam that rests on the wall surface, because it is here that the transverse beams are prone to exposure to sharp temperature fluctuations and are very high humidity. If damaged this part constructions, so that fix floors, use a system of wood and iron prostheses.

at the beginning of the work to strengthen the structure, the damaged component is supported by supports. The damaged area is cut out. The cut is finished with antibacterial compounds.

Next, wood linings are selected so that the total thickness of the structure is slightly larger than the thickness of the original structure. An insert is placed between the linings. The liner is attached to the lining with nails.

Gain structures with wood prosthesis

Reinforcing floors between floors

To fix floors, which are located between floors, can be from below install auxiliary supports, which will take away part of the load on themselves. In this embodiment, the floors will be able to carry a high load.

  • install auxiliary intermediate beams. This will also enable fix floors.
  • If possible, you can install auxiliary intermediate cross beams.

If it is not possible to improve the timber in the ways listed above, then it is possible to unload the structures by redistributing the load on additionally installed parts.

Currently, there are a huge number of different construction aids (" We build a house with our own hands", "How to build good house", etc.). They offer various materials and technology.

If we talk about family living, then the most the best option counts two-storey wooden house. Wood is an environmentally friendly material that is safe for health and easy to process. It is used not only for building walls. Wood is a popular flooring material. We will talk about them in the article.

lags

In a wooden house use beams or logs for flooring. However, the latter are more popular. This is due to the fact that the floor logs are much lighter than beams and more mobile.

Beams after installation are extremely difficult to move, and repairs will be very costly. Floor logs are easy to mount, dismantle and repair.

Specifications

If we we build a house with our own hands, you need to know some technical subtleties. First of all, you should choose the right material in size. The table below shows the parameters (in millimeters) that should be followed:

Board thickness

Step between lags

Span of the room

Section lag

To better understand the calculations, consider an example. Let's say the length of the room is 10 m, and batten has a thickness of 30 mm.

In accordance with the data in the table, for such a thickness it should be 50 cm. 20 lags are needed for a room of a given length. At the same time, the distance from the wall should not be more than 30 cm. Accordingly, you need to add 1 more lag to 20. The distance between the rest will be 45 cm.

Important point

When calculating, rounding should be done in the direction of decreasing. This will provide an extra margin of safety.

There is no need to calculate distances to the nearest millimeter. As a rule, centimeters are used in calculations.

Foundations

Before how to make wood floor, it is necessary to assess the condition of the base.

Logs can be laid on concrete, wood or earth. Each option has its technological features which should be taken into account when performing work. In general, the technology of flooring practically does not change.

Wooden base: preparatory stage

OSB boards or Under the future can act as it wood flooring you can lay a heater with steam and waterproofing. Styrofoam or mineral wool is used.

Before how to make wood floor, it is necessary to remove the dimensions of the room. The calculation of the amount of material is carried out taking into account the parameters given in the table above. Next, materials and tools are prepared, marking is done.

At this stage, the main thing is not to rush. Mistakes made during preparation are extremely problematic to correct later.

Installation

Wooden logs begin to be installed from the wall (extreme). If the room already has a subfloor, then you can attach it directly to it. Fixation should be carried out using metal corners with perforation. These fasteners greatly facilitate the work and ensure the stability of the log.

According to the mark, given the size of the board that will be used later, you should make a log. Do not tighten the screws immediately to the stop. Subsequent adjustment may be required.

After installing the wall elements, you can proceed with the installation of intermediate ones. The step between them will depend on the thickness of the board. As a rule, the distance is 70 cm.

alignment

Between the wall lags it is necessary to pull the rope. At this level, the rest of the intermediate elements are installed. The accuracy should be ± 1-2 mm.

It makes no sense to align with greater accuracy, since it will take quite a long time. The height difference can be removed later when finishing the front of the wooden deck.

Ventilated floors

They are mounted on As a rule, this option is used in non-residential rooms.

When installing such floors, special accuracy is not needed. Alignment is done directly by the lags. Fastening is carried out on nails or self-tapping screws from the side of the beams. The scheme of actions does not differ from that described above.

Ventilation is carried out through special holes in the foundation. Between the floor and the ground should maintain a distance of at least half a meter. If it is less, the shortness of air exchange will not meet the required parameters. This, in turn, will negatively affect the wooden structures.

concrete base

The device of the floor on it is associated with a number of difficulties. First of all, it is necessary to reliably protect the wood from decay. For this, various impregnations are used. Meanwhile, impregnated special formulations structures can hardly be considered environmentally friendly, and it is precisely because of this indicator that many people use wood in building.

If it is planned to install a log on the entire area, between them in without fail waterproofing is installed.

For fastening elements, all the same metal corners. They provide a gap between the concrete and the lag. Of course, the bearing properties of the base will deteriorate somewhat.

Work progress

By concrete screed marking is done. A drill with a drill bit should make holes for the corners. The distance will depend on the size of the lag.

Two opposite ends of the wooden element are set according to the level and marks, then they are baited on the corners. Used to check the position building level. Other lags should also be set on it.

This installation option has a number of undeniable advantages. First of all, direct contact between wood and concrete is completely excluded. Secondly, with the help of corners, you can remove irregularities up to several centimeters. Accordingly, before installation, a final screed can be omitted.

You can, of course, lay the logs directly on the concrete. In this case, a material based on modified bitumen is used as insulation.

Ground mounting

This method of laying logs is usually used in outbuildings, baths, gazebos, etc. Wood must be treated with antiseptics without fail. If you need to make durable strip foundation, then ventilation must be provided in advance. Usually a columnar base is used.

Before laying the logs, it is necessary to remove the fertile soil layer. Next is the marking of the columns. They can be made concrete, prefabricated, block. The size of the supports is approximately 40x40 cm, the depth of occurrence is 30 cm. Sand is poured onto the bottom with a layer of approximately 10 cm and compacted.

The next stage is the pouring of the supports with concrete. The mixture is prepared from a ratio of 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand and 2 parts of crushed stone. Formwork in the ground is optional. Formwork from OSB scraps or boards is fixed above the ground. With its device, a level is required. Formwork edges must be vertical.

The easiest way to make columns is from blocks. Horizontally, they are aligned with a rope. After installing the extreme posts on the hydraulic level, you should stretch the rope between them. It is necessary to ensure that the deviations are not more than ± 1 cm. This difference can then be eliminated when installing the log.

Installation Features

Laying also begins with the extreme lag. Accurate horizontal alignment can be done using spacers. It is not recommended to use wooden wedges as them, as they will dry out over time, wobbles will appear: while walking, the floor will creak.

Between wooden elements and concrete surfaces ruberoid is laid in 2 layers. This will provide reliable protection from moisture.

After mounting the extreme lag, the installation of the rest begins. Alignment is carried out on a rope. Fixation is made on metal corners and dowels with self-tapping screws. You can increase stability by installing fasteners on both sides.

Boards can be laid directly on the logs or on the subfloor.

Coniferous wood is considered the best option.

You need to select logs with a margin of safety. This is especially true if it is planned to install an interfloor wooden floor. In such cases, the elements will carry an increased bending load.

It must be remembered that the mistakes that were made on preparatory stages, it is much more difficult to fix later: you will have to spend not only time, but also money. Therefore, it is better to choose quality materials and follow the recommendations.

When choosing a lag, it is necessary to assess their condition. On the wood there should be no traces of decay, through cracks, knots.

Consequences of mistakes

As mentioned above, non-compliance with the technology can lead to wobbles of the boards. And if it is still possible to correct such errors on the ground floor, albeit with monetary costs, then repairs second floor ceilings- a real problem.

In many houses, especially old ones, you can see the deflection of the ceiling with the naked eye. This situation is associated with an incorrect calculation of the bearing capacity of structures or exceeding the maximum load.

The amount of lag deflection depends on various factors:

  • The quality of the material.
  • wood moisture level.
  • Insufficient thickness of metal elements.

This, of course, is not all the reasons. In some cases, it fits under load.

It should be said that in any case, the sagging of the ceiling can have the most Negative consequences. Incorrect load calculation can lead not only to deflection wooden elements, but also to the complete collapse of the second floor in a wooden house. And this happens, as a rule, when no one expected it.

When should you take action?

Which one needs to be carried out preparatory work, before how to strengthen the lags of the second floor? Can reinforce the ceiling if a clear sagging of the ceiling is found. In this case, the first thing to do is to take measurements, assess the condition of structural elements, and determine the static load indicator. According to these parameters, the amount of sagging is determined.

Any overlap under the influence of its weight, the static load of objects and structures installed on it, sags over time. A sagging value of 1:300 is considered acceptable. For example, if a beam 3 m long is bent by 10 cm, there is nothing to worry about yet. However, if the value is larger, you need to reinforcement of structures and get rid of distortion. Let's take a look at a few ways to fix the problem.

How can I strengthen the lags of the second floor?

Ways to strengthen wooden structures vary depending on the condition of the elements. Everything, it is quite possible to find in hardware stores.

First, pretty in a simple way the use of overlays from a bar is considered. The beam width is subtracted from the log section value. The elements are fastened with bolts with metal plates, which prevent the destruction of wood in the connection area.

The sagging lag rises to required level, after that, the overlay from the timber is fixed to it.

metal strips

Their thickness should be 10 mm, and the width should be 10-20% less than the height of the log.

Bolts should be used for fastening. At the same time, to increase the strength of the structure and prevent deformation of the strip, it is advisable to increase their number.

Overlays can be installed on one or both sides at once. This will depend on the load on the bearing parts of the floor.

Other metal products

How can I strengthen the lags of the second floor if they are damaged by putrefactive bacteria or insects?

To strengthen the elements, "prostheses" are used, welded from a bar in the form of a spatial truss or using a channel.

In the first case, a rather complicated calculation of the strength index is required. It can only be carried out by a qualified specialist. The channel can be selected from standard rolled metal products.

Additionally

Gain interfloor structures can be made by installing additional logs. However, such work will require the addition of holes in the load-bearing walls. In some cases, making them is very problematic.

When using metal elements to strengthen the lag, it is necessary to provide for the installation of elements to which the boards will be attached. They must be reliable and durable, excluding reeling. This is especially true for floors with destroyed parts.

Use of carbon fiber

It's comparatively new way gain lag. Carbon fiber is glued in several layers until the necessary rigidity of the log is reached.

This material is presented on the market in the form of fabric, threads, plates, tapes, sheets. Carbon fiber (carbon fiber) is very convenient to use. One of its advantages is its low weight.

Installation of a bar "prosthesis"

For the manufacture of this element, two paired trusses are used. They, in turn, are made from scraps of reinforcement, with a section of 10-25 mm. The length of the product must exceed the double length of the damaged end of the log by 10%, but at the same time be no more than 1.2 m.

Installation is carried out as follows:

  • Temporary supports are installed in increments of 1-1.5 meters from bearing wall. Supports are racks with runs.
  • The damaged section of the log is cut off.
  • The "prosthesis" blank is wound vertically into interfloor overlap, flips horizontally. First, it is pushed onto the log, then into reverse side and slide into the niche of the wall.
  • The sliding bar is shifted to the required distance and fixed.

Other Solutions

Before how to strengthen the lags of the second floor, you can check if it is possible to unload them, that is, to distribute the load on other elements.

For example, you can use supports or install additional logs. The first option, however, is not always feasible. The fact is that the supports will take up space and can create inconvenience when moving around the room. But some craftsmen turn them into decorative element interior.

As for the installation of additional lags, then, as mentioned above, this is not always possible due to design features building. If conditions allow, then it is better to add several elements to this. This is especially true in the case when the existing lags are not damaged. At the same time, the ends of the new elements must be protected with roofing material before installation.

Alternative material

At the very beginning of the article, it was said that it is more expedient to use logs for the construction of floors due to their mobility and lightness. This recommendation can be used if the expected load on the structure is small.

But what if the load indicator is high? You can deal with the problem using wooden I-beams. Outwardly, they look like rails.

Scope of use

Wooden I-beams used in private construction. In low-rise buildings, these elements are used as load-bearing structures in interfloor floors.

I-beams perfectly replace boards, metal profiles, reinforced concrete slabs. They are able to increase the rigidity of the walls by more than three times. As a result, the structure becomes more stable without a significant increase in weight.

Specifications

For the manufacture of I-beams wooden glued timber and chipboard are used. The photo above shows the design features.

Among the features of the I-beam, the following can be distinguished:

  • The plywood used for the side posts is moisture resistant. The thickness of the plate can be different: from 24 to 27 mm. The composition of the double-tee contains wooden shelf treated with an antiseptic.
  • Rack insert from particle board carried out with the help of special technological grooves.
  • The parts are fixed to each other with water-resistant glue.
  • Outside, the I-beam is coated with water-repellent paint.

The following dimensions are considered the most common: dimensions - 200x80 mm, jumper thickness - 27 mm.

Advantages

First of all, a successful combination of materials should be noted: wood - slab - wood. There are no disadvantages inherent in natural wood in the design.

The I-section acts as a kind of amplifier: due to it, the strength of the jumper increases several times. These features make it possible to put the I-beam on a par with concrete and metal ceilings. At the same time, the beams significantly outperform the latter, since they are completely not subject to corrosion.

When installed in compliance with the technology, the floor will not creak. does not bend, unlike log and other wooden materials.

Despite the operational power, the weight of the jumper is relatively small. Installation of structures can be completely done with your own hands. Installation of I-beams can be carried out by 2-3 workers. The weight of the product with a length of 6.5 meters does not exceed an average of 40 kg. Accordingly, the foundation of the building will not be under high load.

I-beams are not subject to drying out. Due High Quality manufacturing, the deformation of the beam is practically excluded. In addition, the elements do not shrink, do not swell, do not twist under the influence of climatic factors.

Equally important is the ability to retain heat. Beams are characterized by low thermal conductivity, which helps to reduce cold bridges.

For the manufacture of I-beams is used latest equipment and advanced technologies. Products fully comply with international and national quality standards. At the factory, the beams are treated not only with an antiseptic, but also with a fire-fighting composition.

I-beams can be used in low-rise buildings of any type, including frame, block houses. Mounting can be done with any accessible ways. As a rule, metal fasteners, self-tapping screws, bolts, corners, brackets are used.

As you can see, beams are a great alternative to joists. By installing them, the owner of the house will not worry about sagging ceilings and creaking floors.