How to make wooden scaffolding. DIY scaffolding - how to make from pipes and wood? Basic design requirements

All photos from the article

Are there any regulatory requirements for scaffolding used for wall masonry and facade decoration? In this article, we will get acquainted with the documents governing their construction, as well as find out how to correctly assemble homemade woods from wood.

Regulations

The requirements for forests are mentioned in passing in countless OSH manuals; however, only two documents give any serious attention to their design:

GOST 24258-88 describes the use of paving means in construction;
SNiP 12-03-99 is devoted to labor safety in construction; scaffolds are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.

Let's clarify: the section is devoted not only to forests, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization and auxiliary devices in general.

Let's dive deeper into the requirements.

GOST 24258-88

First of all, GOST standardizes the design load on the scaffolding, depending on their type and the height of the site above the ground level.

During the construction or finishing of the house, you cannot do without scaffolding. For their construction, it is not necessary to contact the professionals, you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second can be used a large number of times. Next, we will consider how to properly build both those and other forests with our own hands.

What does the structure consist of?

Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly define what elements they consist of. So, the structure includes:

various braces that give rigidity to the structure;

cross members for the floor;

boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;

supports that will give stability;

fences;

ladder for climbing the floors of the building.

Homemade construction - isn't it dangerous?

Making scaffolding with your own hands is very simple, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable structure, but a rather voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if you disassemble it, the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. Well, if the house can be heated with wood, then they can come in handy, and if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - it will be possible to lease them, but again, if there is a demand for them.

It is also worth noting that the use of self-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. Scaffolding, especially of wood, at higher heights can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, then is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction. It may be easier to rent it. After evaluating all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings, where not only the appearance of the structure should be drawn, but also the amount of material required.

Installation of a wooden structure

In order to create a structure made of wood, it will be necessary to prepare the following materials:

wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;

boards for the floor and crossbars with a thickness of 5 centimeters;

wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;

In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order to walk on it safely, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need:

using braces to fasten four racks together;

fasten the crossbars at the required height;

fix the floorboards on the crossbars;

attach boards that will play the role of a fence;

carry out the installation of supports;

fix the ladder in the right place;

check the drawings.

All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with nails and a hammer (see video).

Metal construction

A structure made of a shaped pipe is more reliable than a structure made of boards. When building a structure, it must be borne in mind that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:

pipe for supports with a cross section of 3x3 centimeters and a length of 1.5 meters;

pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;

pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;

a floor of planks about 5 centimeters thick and about 2 meters long;

So, in order to create a structure from a profile pipe, you must:

cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;

cut two-meter braces from each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;

connect two supports each with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be about 30 centimeters;

fix the connecting elements;

drill holes for bolts on braces and supports;

assemble a structure from a shaped pipe to the end;

clean the structure and paint it;

check the available drawings.

How can we do without forests?

It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this has not happened, what is the right thing to do? If the work on the construction or finishing of the building will be carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every brigade should have such structures. If the chance of their independent construction is lost or no more work is planned where they might be needed, the structure can be easily rented.

But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, all finishing work must be carried out immediately with the highest quality. For example, it is better to use facing bricks or other similar materials as materials for finishing, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, summer cottage or country cottage, then do not rush to give money for the finished product. In our material, we will share the best instructions on how to make a structure yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the most general sense, scaffolding is a frame device created from components and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to secure the activities of workers who work on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Varieties of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made of metal and wood. Now let's figure out what modifications are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are irreplaceable when using massive materials and knots. This means that you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant advantage is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. As the name suggests, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Framed. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest by a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with nodal fasteners with diagonal and horizontal racks. The cost won't hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at facilities of increased importance. Produced in accordance with the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each of the types of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

lintels for flooring;
spacers;
enclosing element;
stops;
plank flooring;
racks;
stepladder (ladder).

2. Do-it-yourself installation rules for wooden and metal scaffolding

The first step begins with a well-written drawing. Heed the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the posts is in the range of two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of the jumpers for the initial deck is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one - mounts at an elevation from 180 to 200 cm.And finally, for the third one, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

DIY scaffolding from boards implies the following materials:

boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or a bar with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed to process thrust braces and racks;
edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, ties and spacers;
screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling tall scaffolds, and the latter - at a break and for compact products.

Step # 1. Four racks are cut according to the height of the scaffolding. On a site cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step # 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step # 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen with ties (horizontal and diagonal).

Step # 4. We prepare a solid flooring from bars. Then we mount it securely on horizontal lintels.

Step # 5. Now comes the turn with direct manipulation of the forests. They are connected on two side abutments.

Step No 6. And only after that the railings and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Products from a profile pipe: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of forest is collected in a similar way. However, keep in mind some of the nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

Bolts with nuts and washers (ten of them). They are very easy to fix diagonal braces and then fix to the scaffold base posts.
Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25 × 25 mm or 35 × 35 mm. Provide an additional piece for the installation of the handrail. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
Purchase four plates for the heel pads. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10 × 10 cm.
For the racks and jumpers, take eight segments: equally equal to 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
Diagonal screeds must be formed from four sections (the optimal length is about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get down to work

The first thing to start assembling scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure rack to the OSB sheet, which is the assembly board. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
Next, the jumpers (horizontal) are securely attached to the racks, and only then the adapters (from parts of the pipes) are fixed to the upper ends of the racks (the optimal indentation is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
After that, the finished device (tandem of jumpers with racks) is first detached from the assembly board for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: the clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as the correct processing of thin-walled pipes (for diagonal braces). For our purposes, we hammer the ends and the middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get the spans for the bolts.
Very carefully (in the center) screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
We join the racks with ties with nuts and bolts.
Now we will deal with the handrails and posts separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
Foot pads (plates) are fastened to pieces of pipes. For this we use a welding machine.
At the final stage, the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
We make high-quality and solid flooring from an ordinary edged board, which is placed over the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "forty" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decided to assemble scaffolding on their own should know:

If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey the following logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent struts.
When you attach the screeds, then follow the alternation: on the scaffolds they are mounted on different sidewalls.
Not always, but during major repairs or large-scale construction, you may be faced with the need to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you cannot do without a profile pipe of a persistent cut, which serves for the stability of the forests. Action: Create holes in the posts.
Metal corners (3 * 3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted in the area of contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves dismantling the structure from top to bottom in the reverse sequence to installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations it is necessary:

inspect scaffolding flooring for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc .;
fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
make sure that the tools are in working order;
a safety belt is required if the structure has not been used for a long time and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of products are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Pay special attention to wall mounts, which are disassembled in a similar way: remove the hooks that are located above the tier subjected to manipulation. Craftsmen advise, when dismantling almost all scaffolding (except for the clamp variety), remove the component parts of the tier and lay it on the ground.

So let's get started.

First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fasteners above the deck of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
Secondly, let's move on to the deck board. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one in question.
Thirdly, the railings are removed from the stairwells, then the racks. And then - boards of platforms and stairs. And finally, it is the turn of the tier frame: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
Wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are overwritten with a special compound.

Throughout the entire process, you cannot do without ropes and pulleys - reliable lifting devices. Items received after dismantling must be inspected and packaged in order to store or transport the scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of installing scaffolding, it's time to put the knowledge gained into practice. And if you are seriously thinking about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order high-quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.

When building your home, you can't do without scaffolding. They are needed both when laying walls and when decorating them, they will be useful for roofing work and installing a drain. Reliability is the main requirement for scaffolding, because the safety of builders depends on it.

If possible, it is worth renting industrial scaffolding. But if the construction site takes a long time, or the finances are very limited, the forests can be made with your own hands. Their design is simple, because private construction rarely requires scaffolding more than two stories high.

It's not worth heavily loading home-made forests, the maximum number of people working on them is two.

Types of scaffolding and their features

Scaffolding can be entirely wooden or made of metal pipes and planks. The former are cheaper and easier to assemble, but withstand less weight. The latter will require a large investment of money and time for construction, but can be used longer, disassembled and rebuilt if necessary. There are 4 types of scaffolding, depending on the design and the fastenings used.

Clamps are the most difficult to assemble, but can be configured in a variety of ways to suit a wide variety of buildings.
Wedge scaffolding is capable of supporting more weight.
Pin scaffolds are quickly disassembled and assembled.
Frame scaffolding is economical in construction and light weight, they are able to withstand a weight of up to 200 kg per square meter of their surface. Maximum height - 50 m. Most suitable for self-assembly and use in individual construction.

Design features and materials

Frame scaffolding is built from steel posts and frames, the flooring is made of wood. Aluminum structures are lighter, but they are also able to withstand less load. Recommended parameters for one section:

height - 150 cm,
width - 100 cm,
length - 165-200 cm.

The number of sections depends on the height of the house and the length of its walls.

To work, you need to stock up on materials. You will need:

profile with a square section 3 * 3 cm, 150 cm long for vertical posts,
pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for diagonal and horizontal struts,
profile with a square section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm for connecting inserts on which the flooring will rest, and fences,
boards 4-5 cm thick and 2-2.5 m long for flooring,
for lifting (ready-made can be used, or can be assembled from a profile between the side posts).
Bolts with washers and nuts for connecting elements, self-tapping screws for fixing boards.

From the tools you need a hacksaw for metal or a grinder, a drill with a drill for metal, a welding machine. Connections can also be made using special threaded fasteners.

We build scaffolding from pipes and boards

The preparatory stage before assembling the scaffolding is that the plot of land where they will stand is well compacted. So the whole structure will stand more securely. If construction work is carried out in a rainy season, then a drainage system can be provided so that the land under the forests does not erode. Planks are placed in the locations of the supports for greater stability.

Important! Even a slight backlash in the connections or insufficiently screwed-on threads can lead to the destruction of the scaffolding and injuries.

The first step is to cut the profile and pipes. The pipe is cut into pieces of 200 cm for diagonal struts and 96 for horizontal ones, which will connect the sides. They are cut from the ends by 7-8 cm and flattened. In these places, they will then be connected to the profile.

The vertical posts are tied with profile segments, making sure that they are located strictly horizontally. Then the horizontal sections of the scaffolding are connected with ties, on which the boards will lie, welding them every 30 cm. Holes for bolts are drilled on the racks and spacers. Set the racks in level and attach spacers to them.

To connect several sections of scaffolding, adapters are used. You can make them yourself. Cut off 8-10 cm of a profile with a section of 3 * 3 cm, thread sections of a profile with a section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm into it and connect them by welding.

Boards are laid on horizontal screeds and fixed with self-tapping screws. For scaffolding you can paint.

Greetings to all my readers. I want to write how to make scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe. I represent homemade forests, a drawing, a simple diagram. I will fully describe the entire assembly process, I will list,. I will give some advice on this topic, I will tell you a little about painting, the sequence of dismantling.

Scaffolding is a temporary structure. They should be easy to disassemble and assemble, be durable and reliable. The quality of the connecting lock is very important, which are divided into several types.

Wedge

This name was given to the forest because of the lock, which can use a metal wedge, finger or bolt. They are considered the most reliable and versatile. They can be used for the repair of high-rise buildings, as well as in aircraft and shipbuilding. Such forests reach a height of 80 m.

Framed

These scaffoldings consist of prefabricated frame structures. A frame with a ladder is used as side parts, and a walk-through frame is used in the middle. Among various manufacturers, the standard clearance is 950 mm. This allows the use of frames from different manufacturers in the same scaffold design. Scaffolding of the LRSP-60 brand, for example, is harvested up to 60 m in height. Self-made ones are made according to standard sizes, so that they can complement the factory ones.

The design of the lock for these types of building bridges consists of a tube fixed on the supporting vertical posts, and a pin, which is located on the horizontals. Scaffolding of this type is produced according to standards with a permissible load of 0.5 tons per m². Collect them to a height of 80 m.

Clamp

Clamp scaffolding is used to repair complex forms of facades. The lock in the form of two can be fixed anywhere, on a different section of the pipe. This allows you to create spans of unequal size and establish contours at different heights. In other types of forests, this is not always possible.

From planks

They are most often collected directly on site. They are the cheapest, but non-collapsible. Re-use of the material is undesirable. They come in several varieties:

Armenian. The easiest to make and use, the easiest way to make them yourself. The building wall is used as one of the supports. Height is regulated by retaining lags.
Goats. Triangular or trapezoidal structures on which the decks are supported. Their disadvantage is the complexity of height adjustment. But it is easy to rearrange them with your own hands.
Full-fledged construction bridges. They consist of support posts and crossbeams, on which the flooring of the boards is laid. To prevent the racks from skewing, diagonal crossbars are used. When climbing the scaffolding, an applied ladder or a specially constructed ladder can be used; it is also advisable to use a scaffold. To increase safety from the outside, a boarding fence is used.

Advantages and disadvantages of scaffolding from a professional pipe

Scaffolding from a professional pipe has high strength, but at the same time it is light, since the pipe is hollow inside. Compared to round pipes, the walls of the profile ones have a larger support area. This prevents deformation of the profile pipes under heavy loads.

Scaffolding from a profile pipe has such an advantage as ease of assembly at a relatively low cost. This allows you to save on the manufacture of building footbridges. Protruba is compactly packed during storage and transportation.

And if the main disadvantage of products from a profile pipe is, then in our case it is rather an advantage.

Is it advisable to make forests with your own hands?

Even the rental of construction bridges will not be cheap, especially the purchase of them. Making scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe, take into account all the necessary features, for example, specific dimensions. When there is no need, they can be rented out or sold, thus returning part of the money spent.

Of course, factory-made ones can also be sold after use, but the price for them drops immediately after purchase. And if you make it yourself, you can save money.

How old are the metal walkways

The term of use depends on the conditions of storage, operation, transportation, unloading, loading. The quality of the paint, its layer on critical areas, locks also affects. The minimum shelf life for metal scaffolds in some passport data is 5 years.

But if we consider that the painted profile material, according to the assurances of the manufacturers, can be stored for more than 30 years, then the products from it, respectively, are the same. If, before storage, the profile material is treated with anti-corrosion agents and tinted, and the damaged parts are repaired, then this period will double or triple.

Frame construction rules

First, prepare the soil on which the scaffolds will stand. Then they begin to mount the scaffolding from a profile pipe.

Preparing for installation

It is necessary to compact the soil well, where the support racks of the scaffolding will be installed, to make a drainage in case of rainy weather. It is better to prevent water from flowing under all the support elements so that the soil under them does not erode.

Mounting

The procedure for installing walkways from a profile pipe is as follows:

Collect vertical ladder racks. For this, horizontal rungs are mounted to the supports to obtain a ladder.
Next, intermediate racks are assembled. They differ from staircases only in the absence of steps. They have the same only horizontal bars.
The uprights are secured with side struts.
After installation and installation of the stairs, horizontal supports are mounted, the flooring is laid on them.
Then, in the same sequence, they assemble the details of the second floor, third, etc.

When assembling scaffolding with your own hands, be guided by the drawing.

How to choose a professional pipe, how many pipes you need

For vertical posts, it is advisable to use profile pipes with a side of at least 40 mm. These can be pipes 40 × 40, 40 × 60 or 40 × 80 mm. For horizontal bars, you can use a 40 × 40, 40 × 30, 40 × 20 or, in extreme cases, 30 × 30 mm.

Some people suggest using a profile pipe with a side of 20 mm. I do not recommend doing this, since a thin profile pipe has a small fastening area, and the lateral horizontal supports, together with the flooring on which workers and building materials are located, are fixed with only four joints.

The rungs of the stair posts are made from a profile of the same size. If they are thin, then it will be extremely inconvenient to bring the building material onto the flooring.

If the size 40 × 20 is chosen for the steps, then it is better to fix them flat, with the wide side parallel to the ground. But the profile pipe for lateral horizontal supports, on the contrary, with the narrow side to the ground so that it does not bend. By the way, this is the advantage of a profile pipe, in comparison with a round one - it is more resistant to bending.

For side braces or side diagonal braces, a 20 × 20 mm profile tube is sufficient. The amount of material depends on the height for which the walkways will be designed, the number of intermediate struts and the span length used - 2 or 2.5 m.The standard width is 950 mm for a flooring of 1 m.

For the option described below, you will need 10 m of a profile pipe 80 × 40 mm, 4 pieces of 2.5 m each. For horizontal beams, you need 8.65 m, 4 pieces of 2.16 m of a profile pipe 40 × 20. Diagonal beam 2, 85 m is the same size as horizontal, but it can be thinner.

The steps are made of a 40 × 20 mm profile pipe, they will need 12 pcs. 1 m long. In order for the distance between the supports to be 950 mm, they must be recessed into the square holes of the racks. For metal flooring, a sheet of 2 × 0.95 m with a thickness of at least 4 mm is required.

How to assemble metal scaffolding with your own hands

To repeat with your own hands a convenient and compact design, I propose an option with a rack height of a profile pipe of 2.5 m.They are suitable even for internal construction work, where the ceiling height is more than 2.5 m.When used outdoors, these walkways are suitable for almost any one-story house. They are easy to mount or dismantle with your own hands, move to another place. They are shown in the photo above.

Required tools and materials

To mount the scaffold from a profile pipe, it is better to use an autogen or a semiautomatic device, because it is almost impossible to make a high-quality connection with a simple inverter. Horizontal beams, as I wrote above, are subject to heavy loads. Therefore, you need to burn holes where the rungs or steps will be inserted.

The connection is then scalded until a secure attachment is obtained. For this, it is better to use gas welding or a semiautomatic device. But it is even better to make square holes using a drill and a punch. This option is preferable.

You will need a grinder, tape measure, metal marker. Made of material - 10 m of profile pipe 80 × 40 mm and 23.5 m - 40 × 20 mm, metal sheet 4 mm thick and 2 × 0.95 m in size.Can be made of 2 pieces 1 × 1 m by cutting or bending the edges do it yourself.

Drawings and diagrams

The scaffolding, the diagram of which is shown in the drawing, is made of profile pipes 80 × 40 mm and 40 × 20 mm.

A crossbar with a metal profile deck is shown in the figure below. Plates are welded at the edges - they will prevent the sheet from sliding off the supports.

Preparing struts

It is better to flatten the ends of the spacers. This can be done with a vice. So that the flattened side is not wide, the small side of the shaped pipe is cut to the length of the deformation.

For the manufacture of scaffolding with your own hands, according to the described drawing, a bolt is used in the fastening of the spacer. It is inserted into a hole made in the narrow sides of the pipe. And since the load falls on it, it is better to use a bolt with a thickness of at least 12 mm. Its length is at least 90 mm; instead of a nut, it is better to use a wing. You need 2 such bolts, they are inserted into the holes on both sides of the diagonal crossbar.

Manufacturing of adapters

If you need scaffolding from several floors, then adapters will be needed for stair and walk-through racks. They can be made by hand from a smaller profile pipe. If adapters for support pipes 80 × 40 mm are needed, then 2 pieces of pipe 35 × 35 mm are inserted into an 8 cm long piece of such a pipe. Then the joints are scalded and grinded with a grinder, as shown in the figure.

For a square profile pipe with sides of 40 mm, 1 tube of 35 mm is inserted.

Assembling the frame

The difference between ladder and intermediate supports is only in the presence of steps in the former. In the structure described above, intermediate ones are not used, but they can be made if long scaffolding is needed.

When installing the frame, steps and crossbars are recessed into the support post, so the holes must be the same shape as the parts to be connected.

For square or rectangular holes, it is best to use a drill with drills and an appropriately shaped punch, sharpened on one side. The shape of the punch should be the same or slightly larger than the shape of steps and rungs.

A hole is drilled first. If the profile pipe is square, one is enough, if it is rectangular, then 2-3 are needed so that they communicate with each other. Then a rectangular hole is formed with a punch. This is better than burning a hole with a welder, which can be uneven and the step or crossbar will not fit snugly into it.

Section installation

The supports installed vertically and parallel to each other at a distance of 2 meters are fastened first with side struts, then with a diagonal crossbar. The last section is set with the flooring to the required height. It should have fixing plates at the edges of the profile of the lateral horizontal supports.

Floor making

The described flooring is metal. It is made from a sheet of 2 × 1 m or 2 sheets of 1 × 1 m. Since the length of the flooring is 950 mm, the edges can be folded or cut. Although they will not interfere without it. The flooring itself is fastened by welding, bolts or a rivet gun.

Painting forests

It is needed not so much for beauty as to prevent metal corrosion. Therefore, I recommend using acrylic or alkyd paint. Before painting, it is advisable to treat the product with an anti-corrosion solution, wash off the dirt with a solvent, wipe the scaffolding with a rag. It is advisable to paint all welded parts in 2 layers.

If you paint it with light paint, then any elements of corrosion will be clearly visible. Therefore, they can be noticed in a timely manner and re-processed: painted or repaired with a welding tool.

Universal scaffolding dismantling scheme

Scaffolds are dismantled in reverse order. First, the top floor is dismantled. The sequence is as follows:

flooring and lateral horizontal supports;
spacers;
racks.

If a profiled sheet is used as a flooring, then heavy elements are lowered using halyards. Details can be found in the video reviews.