How to make a floor slab in the garage. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a cellar in a garage: how to dig, wall decoration and photos

The basement in the garage is convenient, practical and allows you to do professional auto repair. How to block the cellar in the garage and make a reliable reinforced concrete floor yourself.

The choice of floor slab depends on the size of the garage, the properties of the soil and the features of the foundation of the building. The number and weight of cars that are planned to be stored in the garage are important. The ceiling must withstand the expected loads (with a margin).

You can make two options for the ceiling in the cellar of the garage:

flooring of hollow reinforced concrete slabs - for such slabs, the walls of the garage serve as the foundation, which must be strong, since they are loaded both from above and from the side of the soil on the sides;
if the garage has already been built and there is a foundation, then the cellar ceiling is poured separately - this is a more time-consuming process.

To build a cellar in any garage, you need to carry out certain preliminary work.

What you need to do before you start digging a cellar inside the garage:

you need to find out - what kind of soil is on the site - on weak and clay soils, which are characterized by high heaving, the walls of the cellar need to be additionally reinforced to prevent soil pressure;
it is necessary to find out if there are any deep communications (electricity, plumbing) at the site of the cellar;
if the site has high humidity and the garage is in the way of seasonal Wastewater, then before laying heavy floor slabs, it is necessary to make a reliable circular drainage system to prevent subsidence of the slabs and large shrinkage of the foundation;
it is necessary to find out at what height lie ground water, since in spring and autumn there can be knee-deep water in the cellar. With a high passage of groundwater, it is necessary to arrange internal and external drainage.

When all the preliminary work on the removal of groundwater and seasonal water has been completed and the walls and floor of the cellar are reliably waterproofed, you can proceed with the installation of the ceiling, which will also be the floor of our garage.

Floor slab - how to choose the right size and install

The garage floor slab can be made of concrete or reinforced concrete. Reinforced concrete slabs are produced solid and hollow. The mass of a full-bodied slab is much higher, so the loads on the cellar walls are very high. For floors in the garage, it is better to choose hollow reinforced concrete slabs, they are cheaper than monolithic ones.

Hollow slabs, due to the air that is inside the slab, provide better thermal insulation floors in the garage and basement.

Reinforced concrete beams can also be used as ceilings for a garage, but in this case it will be necessary to carefully seal and strengthen the joints (concreting) - the floor slab above the basement is more reliable.

There is no need to choose ribbed slabs for the garage, since, firstly, all these products standard length and it is difficult to choose the material according to the dimensions, as well as the ribs at the edges will cause problems with finishing the floor in the garage.

Rigidity and resistance to high loads of the floor slab depends on the used reinforcement and brand concrete mix. When choosing a material, it must be remembered that for a brick basement wall, the width of the support for overlapping must be at least 15 cm, and for concrete - 10 cm.

The mass of the reinforced concrete slab is large, so you need to immediately find out the capabilities of the hired lifting equipment. Will the hired crane be able to withstand the given weight of the load with the boom lowered.

It is obligatory to calculate the loads on the basement walls. Since the total load on the slab is up to 3 tons (walls, car, coating, roof), it is additionally necessary to install welded I-beams or rails as a holding frame for a heavy slab.

Installation of reinforced concrete slabs

Rules for laying reinforced concrete floors:

floor slabs are laid on the already erected basement walls with a truck crane;
installation is carried out on a cement mortar of medium density. The setting time of such a solution is approximately 20 minutes. It is possible to level the plate and install it evenly and correctly;
the floor slab should extend at least 15 cm onto the walls.

Important. After mounting the plates on the walls, the ends must be sealed to prevent freezing of the wall.

How to insulate and isolate the ends of the plates from moisture:

fill all the voids at the ends of the reinforced concrete panels with a layer of mineral wool - the thickness of such a layer inward is 30 cm;
cement concrete mortar- the depth of laying the solution is 20 - 30 cm;
you can additionally insulate the voids from the ends with broken bricks and cement them.

Plate ends - weakness, through which the ceiling can constantly freeze and ice. With a heated garage, the dew point in an uninsulated joint shifts inward, and the floor slab begins to “sweat” - the humidity in the basement and in the garage increases.

If such a problem with the floor slab already exists, then it can be corrected. It is necessary to drill holes in the places where condensation forms in the slab, as close to the wall as possible. Now, in these holes, you need to insert the tubes directed outward and pump into them mounting foam. This is how a cork is obtained, which protects the plate from freezing.

The ends of the floor slab must be insulated both from the inside and outside - this will exclude moisture in the cellar and in the garage. Often garage owners are faced with the problem of humidity in the basement precisely because of the end joints of the plates, which were not insulated and insulated, hence the constant humidity in the cellar.

How to cut a hole in a reinforced concrete slab

Standard hollow core slabs from the M200 cement brand have a strength of 800 kg / m2, but the dimensions of the hole for the hatch must correspond to the length and width of the slab, so as not to reduce its strength.

For slabs with a width of 1.2 m - a hatch measuring 90 x 90 cm, no more.

How to punch a hole in a reinforced concrete panel for a cellar hatch:

we cut the plates only at the junction, counting so that two plates have the same dimensions in width and length. For example, with a hole size of 90 x 90 cm, 45 x 90 cm on one plate and 45 x 90 cm on the other. Thus, we evenly distribute the load on each floor;
horizontally, you need to make a cut along the line of voids;
it is impossible to cut the reinforcement vertically with a grinder. Since the reinforcement bar is firmly fixed in concrete, the circle of the grinder can simply jam. First, the bar must be filed, and then broken with a crowbar or hammer.

After installing the plates, you can make a beautiful metal carcass from the corner, hiding all the uneven trimming.

Be sure the joints between the slabs (rusts) must be concreted in order to give the entire structure rigidity and securely fasten the slabs.

Floor slabs in the garage significantly speed up all construction processes, but such materials are not cheap, plus you need to rent lifting equipment. Therefore, many pour the floor slab on their own - it is much cheaper.

How to make a floor slab in the garage

How to pour a monolithic base over the basement in the garage:

according to the size of the basement, we make formwork from old boards or plywood. We fix such a formwork from below uprights or on the side with horizontal rails or a channel, a meter step, one and a half;
the slab of such an overlap should be 20 cm wider than the perimeter of the basement on each side;
We seal the formwork joints so that the concrete seizes securely and the cement milk does not flow out.

on the laid out formwork we expose reinforcing cage(rebar diameter 10-12 mm). Frame grid spacing - 15 cm;
be sure to tie all fittings with wire;
along the perimeter of the hatch, you must immediately weld the frame from the corner (45x45 mm);
for such an overlap, it is more reliable to use concrete grade M500;
the thickness of the concrete layer is not less than 20 cm;
when arranging such an overlap over the basement in the garage, when pouring concrete, it is necessary to pour the screed with vibration so that the mixture is distributed as evenly as possible and fills all the voids.

Important. It is possible to load such a screed only after the concrete has completely solidified - not earlier than after 20 days.

If you use ready-made concrete with anti-frost and reinforcing additives, you can be sure of the reliability and strength of the floor slab.

Floor slab repair

Most often, the deformation of the floors occurs due to shrinkage of the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the place of subsidence of the soil and raise the slab using the technology of lifting and repairing reinforced concrete foundations.

Small cracks and chips in the slabs just need to be cleaned and cemented. If the crack is large, then horizontal reinforcement is performed and poured over it concrete screed.

Wooden floors - advantages and disadvantages

This is the most inexpensive version of the ceiling device in the cellar of the garage, which you can do yourself. If the loads on the floor in the garage are small, then you can set the floor frame from wooden beams.

Work sequence:

we put the beams on the walls of the basement, a step of 70 cm - 1 meter, depending on the selected diameter of the beam. It is necessary to expose the load-bearing beams of the wooden floor of the floor not in the length of the room, but across. How less step between wooden beams, the more reliable the base of the garage floor;
be sure to treat the wooden beams with antiseptic and moisture-proof impregnation before installation, wrap the ends of the wooden beams with two layers of roofing material or tar.

Compared with a reinforced concrete screed, such a ceiling in the cellar, if it is arranged in a garage, is less reliable and durable, since the bearing capacity of the coating is much lower.

Warming and waterproofing

Insulation of the ceiling in the basement is carried out from below along a wooden or metal crate or from above, on top cement screed. As a heater from budget materials, mineral wool or foam boards are suitable.

Be sure, in addition to insulation, you need to pay attention to reliable waterproofing of the basement. The most common cellar waterproofing options:

resin coating in two layers of upper floor slabs;
covering with several layers of roofing material;
application of water-repellent mastic on all joints of floors.

It is important not to forget about the insulation of the floor in the cellar. Such insulation can be done using quite affordable materials:

a pillow of sand and gravel, on it a layer of expanded clay or broken red brick, then a cement screed;
warming with a layer of clay mixed with sawdust (layer thickness of at least 20 cm), but only on soils where there is no high humidity;
insulation with ordinary sheet polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool should not be used as a heater for the cellar floor - when wet, this material completely loses all its thermal insulation characteristics, so high-quality expensive waterproofing will be needed.

Most reliable option insulation + waterproofing - sprayed polyurethane foam. The material creates a reliable and durable waterproof film that maintains an ideal microclimate in the cellar.

The easiest option is the annual lime whitewash.

No amount of insulation and waterproofing will help get rid of dampness in the basement if it is not arranged high-quality ventilation premises.

basement ventilation in garage

Natural ventilation is inexpensive, but depends on many weather factors, so it does not differ in reliability. If you plan to store vegetables in the cellar of the garage, then it is better to make forced ventilation.

Important rules for ventilation in the basement of the garage:

one end of the supply pipe natural ventilation mounted 20 - 50 cm from the level of the cellar floor, and the second - 30 cm above the ground level;
be sure to close the outer opening of the pipe with a protective mesh and top cover so that water does not enter the cellar;
the second outlet pipe is installed half a meter above the roof of the garage and at a level of 10 cm from the level of the cellar ceiling;
forced ventilation is easy to do - just install a household fan in the outlet pipe, which can be turned on as needed.

Basically, basement ventilation is necessary in summer, when there is the sharpest temperature drop.

How and with what to block the cellar?

The cellar is an indispensable building for owners of private houses, ensuring the safety of food for a long time. It is a room located below the zero mark and does not take up additional space on the site. The cellar overlap, made in accordance with building codes, will ensure structural strength, maintain a stable temperature throughout all year round and will not allow dampness to form.

Storage for food, conservation, vegetables, despite its apparent simplicity, will meet the purpose, if you responsibly approach the work and close the cellar correctly.

Do-it-yourself work to cover the basement and cellar can be done on your own

Preparatory activities

In order for the room to fully fulfill the assigned functions, before you start building a cellar with your own hands, pay attention to the following points:

Implementation earthworks preceded by the development of the layout of the room, which is thought out to the smallest detail. This, in the future, will help to avoid unforeseen situations.
Assess the level of groundwater at the construction site. Perfect option if they are low. When positioning the vault floor below a water-saturated formation, take care that water does not penetrate through the floor and walls.

Only after reliable protection from moisture, you can equip the ceiling for the cellar. The task of waterproofing a building is one of the main ones, as it determines the comfortable mode of the room. How to do it right?

Moisture protection

Reliable waterproofing in the cellar makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate and is carried out as follows:

apply a layer of plaster with the addition of liquid glass to the side surfaces of the basement;
stick 2-3 layers of roofing material on a wet cement mortar;
erect brickwork, with which to press the waterproofing to the walls.

Before pouring concrete to create a basement floor, it is necessary to mount reinforcement and formwork

Floor protection is carried out in a similar way, it provides for the preparation of a "cushion" 20 cm thick from a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

When the box is prepared (walls, floor are concreted and waterproofed), a ceiling is built in the basement. It is necessary to determine what is better to make a ceiling from? After answering this serious question, you can calculate the need for materials and begin work.

It is convenient when the basement is located in the room where the vehicle is stored. Having done all the work in the garage with your own hands, you can save financial resources, as you will not involve professional builders. To reduce costs, determine in advance the necessary materials, find out the prices at which they can be purchased. This will allow you to estimate the overall level of spending.

What types of ceilings can be installed on the cellar?

Types of floors

To ensure the tightness of basements are used various designs that use:

solid reinforced concrete slabs;
reinforced concrete monolithic prefabricated elements;

The quality of the pouring is improved by pouring with vibration

wooden structures;
bearing beams.

Let us consider in more detail their differences, the specifics of the arrangement.

Features of installing a monolithic block

If you are thinking about how to make the ceiling of the cellar so that it is practical and reliable, then we recommend a common option - monolithic reinforced concrete block, which is a reinforcing cage filled with concrete.

The process of creating a solid reinforced base requires the following recommendations:

It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the monolithic block and prepare the formwork.
Install strong supports to support the formwork, which, when pouring mortar and during curing, will ensure the integrity of the array.
Check the tightness of the formwork boards.
Reinforce with mesh and knit the frame after the installation of the formwork. Build a reinforcement mesh, provide an interval between the bars of 20 cm and protrude the steel frame beyond the edges of the slab by 4 cm.
Cellar scheme with insulation and water drainage
When the formwork and frame are ready, you can start pouring the solution.
Concrete continuously, evenly applying the composition until the formation of the array is complete.
Remove air from the internal cavities of the liquid mixture using internal vibrators or conventional fittings.

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Remember that a single-layer reinforcing cage provides strength, but to increase reliability, it is desirable to perform reinforcement in two layers.

After completing the pouring of concrete, allow the composition to acquire the necessary hardness and dry, which will take 30 days. The high strength of the monolithic structure allows it to be used as a basis for the construction of various buildings.

Such an overlap of the cellar in the garage, which is planned, is very practical. Indeed, thanks to a solid monolithic base, it can be used as a foundation in the construction of a vehicle storage room.

The specifics of the installation of precast-monolithic slabs

The ceiling in the cellar can be formed using prefabricated monolithic slabs. To carry out construction activities, order special lifting equipment, which will significantly speed up the work.

Precast-monolithic slabs are blocks that are laid between steel beams and then poured with a small layer of concrete.

There are a number of difficulties associated with increased tolerances for the length and width of the plates. They may simply not match the actual storage sizes. Considering that the length of the slabs is from 9 to 12 meters, before installation, they should be compared with the dimensions of the building. If it is planned to use monolithic-prefabricated slabs, it is advisable to take this into account at the design stage. The size of the basement room in width must correspond to the parameters of the installed plate.

According to the dimensions of the plates basement installation is carried out with a crane. Perform activities in the following sequence:

connect structural elements using steel profiles;
fill the cavities in the joints with a heat-insulating composition;
fill the joint planes with concrete mortar;
lay the roofing material on the surface using bituminous mastic.

Are you having difficulty how to make the ceiling of the cellar? Use a prefabricated structure made of solid reinforced concrete slabs, which are characterized by a low price and can reduce construction time.

Use of wood

Are you planning to equip the cellar with your own hands? Apply wooden bars– proven in practice, easily processed material.

If you are building a house out of wood, you can cover the basement with wooden beams.

Perform activities in the following order:

Treat all parts of the wood structure with an antiseptic.
Wrap the supporting surfaces of the beams with two layers of roofing material.
Install wooden beams on the top surface of the cellar walls.
Fix the end of the bars with small planks, providing the basis for the roll boards.
Lay the boardwalk, secure it using self-tapping screws.
Form a heat-insulating contour, coat with mastic, cover with roofing felt or roofing felt.
Backfill the structure with earth if no structure is planned to be built above the structure.

Pay attention to the presence of grooves in the walls of the basement, necessary for the installation of load-bearing bars.

The use of rolled metal

Deciding how to cover your basement? It is possible to use conventional rails. The I-beam is used as load-bearing beams and is highly durable.

Installation of railway profiles is carried out in special grooves provided in the walls of the building. This allows you to securely fix the structural elements. The length of the beams must correspond to the dimensions of the basement, the walls of which are the base for them.

Form the bearing surface according to the following algorithm: put the bars of steel reinforcement between the beams, fix them with wire;

mount a wooden formwork, lay a waterproofing coating on it;
install under formwork power frame to maintain the concrete mass;
fill the structure with a solution, observing the uniformity of the layer and the continuity of work;
lay the ruberoid on the surface.

Insulation works

The climatic parameters of the basement depend on the effectiveness of the insulation. Use mixture as insulation sawdust With cement mortar, which is evenly applied to the surface with a layer 4 cm thick. Carry out finishing measures after the composition has dried. It is advisable to use foam, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.

Do not forget about the need for ventilation of the room. This will prevent condensation from forming.

Conclusion

How to make a cellar ceiling, we found out. We recommend using high-quality raw materials, choosing proven solutions, and the room will serve you for decades.

On the site: Author and editor of articles on the site site
Education and work experience: Higher technical education. Experience on various industries and construction sites - 12 years, of which 8 years - abroad.
Other skills and abilities: Has the 4th group of the admission on electrical safety. Performing calculations using large data arrays.

The basement in the garage has a number of advantages. This is an additional place to store the necessary things, homemade products, etc. If you try and ensure the right microclimate, you can even store vegetables and fruits here. Today it is quite a popular addition to the garage. It is best, of course, to think over the cellar and indicate it in the drawings at the construction stage of the garage. Let's look at this question of how to dig and build a basement in more detail.

Advantages of placing a basement in a garage

The financial side of building a garage is a very important part. Naturally, during its construction with a cellar, cash costs increase significantly. Indeed, in order to equip the latter, additional costs for building materials are required. Yes, it takes a lot more time to build. But the sheepskin is worth the candle. In the construction of a garage with a cellar, there is whole line advantages that far outweigh the disadvantages.

The cellar in the garage is an additional place where you can store winter preparations. Many are engaged in rolling up pickles, jams, compotes. Some have own dacha and vegetable garden, and some buy ingredients from the market. Basement - optimal and comfortable spot for their safety, because there you can create certain temperature conditions for this.
Own workshop - the place of almost every motorist. The basement might be a great place for her equipment. Indeed, directly in the garage itself there is not always a lot of space for full-fledged repair work. Lack of space causes a lot of inconvenience. But in the basement enough places to place all the tools and equip your workplace.
In the basement of the garage, you can leave things that you do not always use, but from time to time. For example, seasonal items, such as a children's sled that you only use in the winter, or a bicycle that you only need in the summer. In order not to litter the balcony or pantry, you can leave it all in the basement.
If you are going to sell the garage, then the presence of a basement in it will significantly increase its value. The same goes for renting it out.

How to build a capital cellar - instructions

The basement is also a kind of building that requires advance planning. The diagram must clearly indicate the dimensions of each element: height, thickness, width of the floor, ceiling, walls, etc. You need to clearly calculate how much thermal insulation you need, how many bricks, concrete, materials for interior cladding, etc.

Be sure to check before starting construction works whether it is possible to build a basement in the place of your choice. And suddenly it is here that they pass underground communications(gas or water).

If you are building a cellar at the stage of building a garage, then it would be preferable to choose a strip base for the structure. Thus, the walls of the base will become parts of the walls of the cellar, and the basement will play the role of the ceiling of the underground room.

In the case of a close location of groundwater to the surface, give preference to monolithic concrete slabs for the construction of a garage basement. If you are lucky and your soil is dry and not heaving, then you can use lightweight materials for building walls. For example, asbestos cement sheets slate for roofing, which must be laid out in several layers (usually from two to four) and fastened to wooden crate. Between themselves, the sheets are glued using bituminous mastic or a mixture of casein glue and cement no worse than M400.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future basement. Step back from the walls of the garage inward by 300 millimeters so that the garage does not sit in the basement.
Dig up the right sizes pit (250–350 centimeters).
The walls and bottom of the pit must be made as even as possible.
Cover the bottom with sheets of roofing material with an overlap of 150 millimeters on top of each other and crawling onto the walls of the pit by 200 millimeters. To strengthen the waterproofing, you can lay the roofing material in two layers. In this case, the joints of the lower layer should not overlap with the joints of the upper layer.
The next stage is a concrete screed with reinforcement.
Then the basement walls are erected. To do this, you can use bricks, asbestos sheets, concrete or another material that suits you. Leave a small gap between the ground and the outer part of the wall, where the outer waterproofing will be laid. To do this, use bituminous or other special mastic. It is applied with a roller or spatula, put on a long handle. If the gap is large enough, then roll insulation can be additionally glued to the mastic.
Naturally, it is impossible to use a ready-made concrete slab for flooring, because the height and width of the garage is not enough to install it (of course, if it is a regular garage for one car). Therefore, you can make an overlap from the boards. They are laid close horizontally and a hole is left for the hatch. Lay on the boards waterproofing material, make a frame of reinforcement and formwork, fill everything with cement mortar with a layer of 300-400 millimeters. A smaller thickness of concrete may not be able to cope with the weight of the car.

Building the floor

In order for the floor of the garage cellar to be dry and as warm as possible, it is important to think carefully about its arrangement at the planning stage.

When you dig a pit, you need to increase its depth by 300-400 millimeters in order to build a drainage cushion. The bottom of the pit is well leveled and compacted. A layer of sand of 150 millimeters is poured on top. The sand must be moistened with water and compacted well. Then a layer of gravel of 150 millimeters is poured. This is done so that groundwater cannot get too close to the waterproofing material and spoil it. In addition, sedimentary water will be able to quickly leave through a layer of gravel and sand. Thus, the liquid will not linger in the basement.

After the crushed stone layer is laid and rammed, it is necessary to lay the rolled waterproofing material in several layers. Alternatively, liquid bitumen can be used.

Then a concrete screed with reinforcement is constructed, the thickness of which should be 200-300 millimeters. After its final hardening, it is advised to treat the concrete with a deep penetration waterproofing primer.

This type of flooring is the best.

You can make a clay floor, if the groundwater level allows it. To do this, clay is laid in two layers, and a layer of roofing is placed between them. The first layer of clay should be 250 millimeters, and the second 400-600 millimeters. On the clay, you can lay the flooring of the boards.

Building basement walls

Depending on the physical characteristics of the soil at the construction site, it is necessary to choose best option material for building walls. If the soil is dry and not heaving, then a full-bodied red brick can be used. For other soils, the use of reliable and strong reinforced concrete is more suitable. Brick walls after erection are covered with plaster from a concrete mix.

If the walls are made of concrete, then first of all there is the construction of sectional plank formwork. One section in height should be from 350 to 400 millimeters. Reinforcing bars are installed in the formwork and concrete is poured there with a layer of 300 millimeters. After it dries, the formwork section is set higher and the same is done. So, section by section, all the walls of the room are lined up. Fasten the extended sections with each other using rails and nails.

To enhance the waterproofing properties, treat the walls with a special hydrophobic primer with deep penetration.

Waterproofing works - how to get rid of water

Many of its factors depend on the correct construction of the garage basement, such as its durability, food storage conditions and others.

Very important! The issue of waterproofing the basement of the garage must be approached with great responsibility. The cellar is a room located underground. That is why very high demands are placed on its protection.

At the construction stage, when a foundation pit is dug under the cellar of the garage, as soon as groundwater is discovered, they must be repaired with greasy clay 500 millimeters deep.
The same clay closes up the empty space that forms between the basement wall and the soil. The thickness of this layer should be at least 150 millimeters. Brick cladding must be laid out flush with the floor beams. After that, the upper part of the cellar must be covered reinforced concrete floor with hatch.
If the soil at the basement construction site is low-moisture and inactive, i.e., the groundwater is deep enough, then for external waterproofing work it is sufficient to treat the walls with hot bitumen. Otherwise, if the soil is wet, then it is necessary to do waterproofing using roofing material, which is based on bituminous mastic.
If the groundwater level is above the cellar floor, then it is necessary to make underground waterproofing. For this, multi-layer carpets made of roofing material are used. In addition, it is best in this case to make the base of the floor using greasy clay or gravel soaked in bitumen.
To prevent dampness and mold from appearing in the cellar of the garage, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation in the room. To make it, you need to build special holes in the basement walls. To maintain an average temperature in the room, you can lay a film, clay, clay straw or roofing felt over the entire floor area. The layer thickness should be 200 millimeters. A layer of earth of 300 millimeters must be poured on it.

Before placing vegetables, seamings and other products in the cellar, it is necessary to get rid of moisture and dry the room. To do this, cover the walls with lime and burn 12 tablets of dry fuel indoors. Such actions, in addition to drying the basement, relieve and prevent the appearance of putrefactive bacteria.

We make ventilation (hood) - table

A good ventilation system (hood), as mentioned earlier, is the key to high-quality storage of vegetables, fruits and other food products in the garage cellar. Ventilation planning takes place at the very beginning of the construction work on the construction of the garage. If this is not done, then the amount of air may not be enough.

Way to create ventilation	Detailed description
Cellar natural ventilation	Refers to the most simple ways air circulation in the basement of the garage. To do this, use 2 pipes. The first works to draw air out of the room, and the second draws in fresh air. Mount the first one under the ceiling. It rises through the entire garage and exits 50 centimeters above the roof. This allows warm air to escape from the garage cellar to the outside. The second pipe responsible for the inflow fresh air, is installed 50 millimeters above the level of the basement floor. She is taken outside. It should be located 30 centimeters above ground level from the side of the street. In order to prevent pests from entering the cellar through the pipe, it must be protected with a special mesh. In order to regulate the levels of incoming and outgoing air, it is necessary to build caps or flaps of small sizes on the pipes. A significant disadvantage of such ventilation is that in cold winter time year, it may malfunction due to the fact that the pipes are clogged with frost. But thermal insulation and periodic cleaning of pipes from snow solves this problem. To make it easier to take care of the ventilation pipes, experts advise making the upper element of the pipe removable. During the summer period, the temperature conditions of the street and the basement are almost identical and the ventilation stops functioning.
Forced cellar ventilation	This is a way to ventilate the basement that can be controlled. It is achieved using electric ventilation systems. Such ventilation is done using the same pipes as in the previous case or using a double-leaf pipe through which air is exchanged. This system works regardless of weather conditions. That is why she is more attractive than, natural way ventilation.
Cellar mechanized ventilation	The most modern and expensive method of ventilation of basements. A monoblock, which is controlled by software, is responsible for attracting and extracting air.

How to properly insulate a basement from the inside

This process is also very important in the construction of the basement.

If the basement is not thermally insulated or the process is approached in bad faith, then the cellar will not function properly and all the work done will go down the drain.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as a heat-insulating material. It does not rot, waterproof and durable. Attach it with outer side basement when you insulate the foundation of the garage.
The thickness of expanded polystyrene should be 50 millimeters and grade PSB-S-25. Such thermal insulation material perfectly maintains a stable basement temperature. Internal thermal insulation leads to condensation at the joints.
Thermal insulation of the cellar ceiling is also a very important stage in the construction of this room. Otherwise, warm air will cool sharply from the cold surface of the ceiling, which will cause condensation to form.
If the floor of the garage is made of reinforced concrete slab, which cannot be heated, the installation of a false ceiling in the basement, which is filled with heat-insulating material, saves.

Ceiling and roof insulation

To insulate the ceiling and basement cover, you must adhere to the following scheme:

Fix pipes with a diameter of 2.5 centimeters under the ceiling of the garage cellar. They should be located 150 millimeters from the ceiling surface and installed at a distance of 600 millimeters from each other. You can fix them both to the ceiling and to the walls from inside the basement.
To pipes with an angle of 90 °, it is necessary to install reinforcement rods. Their diameter should be no more than 0.1 centimeter and there should be a distance of 300 millimeters between them. Then you need to form a single soft metal mesh.
Paint everything with waterproof paint.
In the empty space between the ceiling and the pipes, place plastic bags filled with straw and moss. The ends of the bags are sealed and stacked tightly to each other so that there is not a single gap.
At the last stage, it is necessary to make drains for condensate using umbrellas made of galvanized iron, polyethylene or moisture resistant plywood. The condensate must drain into a previously prepared container.

Responsibly approach the arrangement of the basement so that its functionality is not impaired, and you can leave food in it with peace of mind. Even minimal errors in work can ruin all the work done.

How to dig a cellar in an already finished garage?

Mark the perimeter of the future garage cellar.
Dismantle flooring and dig a pit of the right size.
The walls and floor are made according to the principle described above.
Then comes the manufacture of supports for the ceiling.
Planked and reinforcing frame formwork is being constructed.
The floor of the garage is again poured with concrete.
Redo the manhole, install a hatch and a ladder.

We do finishing and lighting

To make it comfortable in the basement of the garage, it needs to be finished with something and lighting should be done. The latter will not cause any special difficulties with the condition that there is lighting and electrical wiring directly in the garage room. You will just need to create the wiring from the electrical panel, which is located in the garage. The formation of lighting and the placement of sockets and switches is a matter of technology.

At the final stage, it is necessary to make the lining of the bare concrete walls of the basement, which do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

The easiest way to finish is plastering. Thus, the design will look monolithic. To do this, attach a metal mesh to the walls without covering it. ventilation holes. If you plan to further finish the walls with ceramic tiles, then the layer of plaster should only cover the network minimally so that there is room for tile adhesive. The material is applied with a trowel and smoothed out using a trowel.

You can, of course, resort to more complex and expensive cladding options, for example, tiles. But practice shows that garage cellars most often get by with simple plastering.

This is followed by the arrangement of various shelves and racks in order to conveniently store homemade blanks or tools. Making it complete appearance the basement is formed by all the little things in the aggregate. At this stage, you are already free to manage your own needs. Each owner equips the basement for himself individually.

Video: basement arrangement

Video: do-it-yourself cellar under the garage

Now you can independently build a basement in your garage and equip there with an additional roomy enough place for anything. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the process of work. But each stage is very important and should be treated very seriously and responsibly. Good luck!

I recently bought myself a house. The former owner turned out to be a decent person and immediately warned me that the boards from which the floor above the basement was made had rotted from time and dampness and required urgent replacement. He was probably afraid that one day I might fall into it. The basement itself was located in the house under the kitchen and had the following dimensions: width - 2.4 m, length - 2.3 m. From the inside it was lined with brick and covered with a layer of clay.
The floor above it lay on two wooden beams and consisted of boards and chipboard boards laid on top of them. It was made crooked and deteriorated to such an extent that it was really dangerous to walk on it. All the wood was beaten by carpenter beetles, and some chipboard boards were damp and became loose.
At first, I expected to simply replace the boards on it, but then, after thinking it over slowly, I decided to make a metal frame and fill it with concrete. Firstly, there will always be dampness in the basement, whatever one may say, which means that new boards, given the current quality of the forest, will definitely not be enough for a long time, and secondly, if you do it, then it will be reliable, once and for all, and what could be stronger than concrete?

Dismantling the old floor
The first step was to remove the chipboard, and then the boards. With the help of a nail puller, a hammer and a crowbar, I managed to do it in three hours. There were no problems with the plates, but it took more time to disassemble the boards: they were nailed to the beams with huge nails, so they came off with great difficulty. After wood flooring the floor was completely removed, I had to remove a decent layer of earth (one bayonet) around the entire perimeter near the walls with a shovel in order to remove all existing irregularities and plan the surface. This case took up the rest of the day. The next morning was welding work.

Frame manufacturing
I did not regret the metal for the manufacture of the frame. Perhaps he used it even more than necessary, but only in order not to put additional pillars inside the cellar, reducing its free space. The basis of the design was thick-walled pipes(? 61 mm, wall thickness 5 mm), which I did not even have to buy. The fact is that earlier heating was made from them in the house. It looked terrible, cumbersome, so it was only natural that I removed all this iron from the rooms, replacing it with modern ones. heating appliances. And the pipes, as you can see, were useful for the basement.

First, I evenly distributed four powerful three-meter pipes, which are load-bearing beams, over the cellar pit (after 80 cm). Then, setting them exactly on the level, he began to weld them together. To do this, I needed smaller diameter pipes (? 32 mm - 12 m) and thick fittings (? 12 mm - 40 m). First of all, I welded 15 lintels between the beams, after which I tightened the entire structure with reinforcing bars welded to them from below. The result is a very durable metal frame.

Separately, I would like to dwell on the manufacture of a frame framing the entrance to the basement. I made it from profile pipe 40/20 mm in the shape of a rectangle (length - 70 cm, width - 50 cm). What is there to pay attention to? Firstly, all corners of the frame must be perfectly straight, the dimensions of the sides must be strictly maintained, otherwise the lid will not fit tightly into it, and it will begin to see through from the cellar. Secondly, it should be welded in such a way that it is at the same height as the pipe-beams, which are also beacons.

The cover itself was also made by me from a profile pipe (40/20 mm) and a thick piece of plywood, securely connected to its metal base with self-tapping screws. The limiter for the lid, excluding the possibility of its falling into the basement, served as a corner welded to the underside of the framing frame. On that day, I worked with welding from the bottom of my heart: from early morning until late at night, but still finished the job. I burned almost two packs of some electrodes, and inhaled caustic smoke - horror! (the pipes were covered in paint).

Formwork installation
The metal frame was ready, but now I had to solve a new problem - to mount the formwork over the cellar. Were considered different variants its manufacture, but in the end my choice fell on chipboard, which were removed from the old floor. Why? Firstly, it was easier and faster to close a large space above the pit with them, and secondly, thanks to the slabs, there were practically no cracks where liquid concrete could spill. I fastened them to the frame from the underside with a thick knitting wire: first I drilled with a drill into Chipboard holes, then he threaded the wire into them, after which he screwed it tightly to the armature with pliers. It turned out reliably, but, given the severity of the concrete, just in case, I put a few temporary props from below.

Concrete work is a serious challenge, especially if you need to concrete 12 m in one day? with a layer thickness of 10 cm. For this reason, I called a friend for help, having previously prepared everything necessary for this business: gravel screening, cement, a mixing trough, shovels, buckets, a rule. We distributed as follows: together we kneaded the concrete (in a ratio of 1/5), then one brought it in buckets to the place of pouring and poured it out, and the other leveled the finished mixture with a three-meter rule, pressing it tightly against the lighthouses and making frequent oscillatory movements to the sides.

The two worked on the hunt. Having started work at eight o'clock in the morning, by lunchtime we had already finished pouring. The result pleased. The floor came out smooth, and the whole room immediately changed. Two days later, when it was already possible to walk on concrete, I took the old car disc and, making circular movements with it on the surface of the floor, removed small irregularities from it. Now all that was left was to wait for the concrete to dry completely.

final chord
A week passed, and I started the final work. First of all, I richly painted the dried concrete surface primer. But not for beauty, no, but to reduce the amount of dust that inevitably forms when walking. When the paint is dry, put it on the floor waterproofing film, preventing the penetration of moisture from concrete into linoleum. After that, as you may have guessed, linoleum was laid, but not simple, but thick, insulated, with an abrasion-resistant surface that is not even afraid of being dragged over it. An expensive pleasure (the price of a linear meter is about 2 thousand rubles), but, believe me, it is worth the money spent.

I trimmed the entrance to the basement and the lid itself with a decorative metal corner. It turned out neat and beautiful: under the corner, it was possible to hide the unevenly cut edges of the linoleum, besides, he pressed them tightly to the surface. I made the handle for the lid not ordinary, but removable so that it does not interfere with walking. To do this, I drilled a cover in the center, screwed it on the back side metal plate, to which a regular nut was spot-welded. Under it, he made a special key, which is a small twig with a thread and a knob at the end.

You may well make a cellar in the garage with your own hands to store a variety of jams and pickles in it. Garage basement - very useful utility room, so it makes sense to deal with its construction and competent arrangement.

Types of cellars - what are they?

Basements in garages differ from each other in terms of their penetration into the ground. The most common option is considered to be a cellar with a depth of 1.6 to 3 m. This type of "garage pit" is called completely buried. It can store any stocks prepared for the winter by zealous housewives.

Semi-buried basements are built a little less often. They are deepened into the ground no more than a meter. If you wish, you can also make a so-called ground cellar - dig a small hole on the floor of the garage and place some kind of plastic container in it.

When choosing the type of garage basement, one should take into account the depth of soil water in a particular area. Experts advise building cellars, the bases of which are at least 0.5 m away from the source of moisture.

Buried storages are usually built under capital garages with relatively large areas. The dimensions of such basements, in principle, can be any. In practice, pits are dug no more than 2.5 m wide and about 2 m deep. All work is carried out according to a pre-drawn plan (building drawings, thermal and waterproofing schemes, a set of materials used, and so on).

Buried basements are best done simultaneously with the construction of the garage itself. But it is quite possible to build a cellar in a finished structure - the technology for performing construction activities will be the same. It’s just that in an already operated garage it will not be possible to use special equipment for digging a pit. The work will have to be done with a shovel and other tools, not relying on the help of machines.

A few important tips to help you build a basement in a garage with your own hands:

If the soil is on your land plot very wet or groundwater rises high, the pit needs to be built from monolithic concrete, which has a high density and moisture resistance.
When building a garage and a basement at the same time, it is best to do strip foundation- it will become a "replacement" of part of the walls of the cellar.
In dry soils, the construction of lightweight basement walls from roofing asbestos-cement slate is allowed.

The principles of arranging the floor base in the garage basement

After the pit is dug, it is necessary to carefully level its bottom and then tamp it down. The bottom level is always taken 25–30 cm less than the mark at which the future flooring will be located.

A pillow is laid on the rammed floor. Several layers are made in such a way that the thickness of the sand layer is at least 20 cm. Each part of the pillow should be rammed, using water if necessary. Professionals, in addition, recommend equipping an additional gravel layer of the same thickness.

After that, we select the type of floor that we want to build. It can be concrete, soil or clay. When laying concrete base be sure to use reinforcing bars. Metal products will provide surfaces with high strength. Floors with reinforcement are practically not afraid of soil shifts. The bars are poured with concrete, the surface thickness should be about 7.5 cm.

Then the waterproofing of the concrete layer is carried out using roofing material (it is desirable to make two-layer products by gluing two sheets of material with molten bitumen). The insulation is made so that the edges of the roofing material protrude beyond the foundation by 12–14 centimeters.

Instead of a concrete solution, when arranging the bottom of the cellar, it is allowed to use finished slabs from reinforced concrete. In this case, you have to very accurately level the base of the pit using a laser or a regular building level. The slabs are installed on a 15 cm layer of crushed stone and 5 cm of sand.

Soil foundations are not recommended. It is reasonable to lean towards this option only when the soil water on the site is at a low level. Soil bases are settled on a gravel-sand cushion. They must be protected from moisture.

The most economical and at the same time environmentally friendly is the clay base. It is made from two layers. First, one layer of clay is laid (it must be thick enough), then - roofing material, which will act as a waterproofing agent, and again a clay layer on it. In most cases, wooden boards are subsequently mounted on such a base. Their installation is carried out after the complete drying of the clay.

Basement walls - how to make them reliable?

For the construction of wall surfaces in the cellar, it is forbidden to use light Construction Materials- Chipboard, plywood sheets and so on. It is necessary to use strong and reliable products. Walls can be built from concrete, well-burnt solid red brick, or from foam blocks that are popular today.

When using a brick, you will have to spend a lot of money. This material is quite expensive. After the installation of brick walls, their surface, in addition, will need to be well plastered. Working with concrete products is much easier. Their advantage is the absence of the need to carry out measures for waterproofing the surfaces obtained.

Most often, the walls of the cellar are made of concrete. Step by step, this process looks like this:

Overlay reinforcing mesh on the walls. It is made from scraps of pipes that have served their purpose or from thick metal rods, which are fastened together with annealed wire. Reinforcement cannot be welded, as concrete will crack during temperature fluctuations.
We build formwork from pieces of plywood, slats of large thickness or other wood material. The formwork is equipped with separate (40 cm in height) sections, which are filled in layers with concrete mortar. Individual elements structures are connected with ordinary nails.
We knead concrete (it is recommended to use material marked M400) and pour it in layers of 25–30 cm into the formwork.

As you can see, the instructions for building concrete walls for the basement are simple. There are no special tricks in it. Any home craftsman can cope with such work. Please note that it is undesirable to dry the finished concrete walls with hair dryers and other thermal devices. It will be right to wait until they dry naturally.

Overlapping the ceiling is a truly important stage of work

If you decide to make a very small basement, it is quite acceptable to make its ceiling from wooden planks. It is only necessary to insulate it from the inside, using improvised materials. In other cases, the overlap should be made reliable and massive. Do not forget that it will have to withstand the weight of your car in the garage.

A solid floor is usually made from a concrete slab. In this case, it is necessary to use a special reinforcing "skeleton" for it. Equipped with a hatch with a double cover. It is not difficult to purchase such a hatch of any required size. With a strong desire, you can do it yourself. The hatch is installed in a hole to be made in concrete slab. In this place you will have the entrance to the cellar. Choose your own sizes.

The overlap on the inside is always treated with hot bitumen and insulated after the bitumen mixture has cooled. Glass wool or more expensive (but, note, more effective) polystyrene foam in plates is usually used as an insulating material. Its marking is PSB-S-25. With such expanded polystyrene, it is possible to insulate not only the ceiling, but also the walls and the outer parts of the basement foundation.

Fresh air for the cellar - we equip ventilation

The preservation of fruits and vegetables in the basement for a long time is ensured by the competent organization of its ventilation system. It can be made natural or forced.

The natural supply of fresh air is arranged simply:

One pipe (it is called a supply pipe) is mounted from the cellar floor at a height of about 25 cm and brought out into the street. The outer part of the supply pipe is protected by a metal cap.
The second pipe (exhaust) is installed 25 cm lower from the cellar ceiling, where the most humid and warm air masses are always present, which must be constantly removed to ensure the required microclimate in the basement. It is brought out above the roof of the garage by about 50 cm.

The efficiency of natural ventilation is low. In summer, it often simply does not function (the air in the street and in the basement has the same temperature), and in winter the system can become clogged with frost and snow, from which the ventilation must be constantly cleaned.

Forced air exchange systems are many times more modern and efficient. But their installation requires financial costs for the purchase of special fans powered by household power. These devices are mounted in ventilation pipes, which are installed in the same way as in the organization of natural ventilation. A scheme using one double-leaf pipe is also possible.

Forced systems are almost independent of climatic conditions. They guarantee optimal microclimate in the cellar. If you want to create the most reliable ventilation in your basement, buy a special monoblock controlled by a mini-computer. Such a technique will itself calculate the required amount of fresh air supplied to the cellar, as well as extract from it the required volume of moist and warm streams.

And don't forget to make stairs to your garage cellar. It can be the simplest - attached, and stationary, made of metal, durable wood or concrete.