Built-in wardrobe according to your own project and with your own hands. How to make a sliding wardrobe for a bedroom yourself How to make a sliding wardrobe yourself correctly

The layout of Russian apartments is such that sometimes you can find niches in them, where a closet just begs. Such spaces are located in corridors, kitchens or bedrooms. You can't put a sofa or armchairs, it's a painfully detached corner, but it would be optimal solution... Often, the owners have an idea to make a built-in wardrobe with their own hands, and this decision is quite justified. Thanks to this design, you can effectively use the niche space, and a beautiful facade and false panels can not only revive a room, but even visually make it larger, for example, if you make the doors of the wardrobe compartment mirrored. So, where to start, if the desire to personally lay hands on the improvement of the apartment burns in the soul. We propose to consider all stages of work point by point.

Before you start work yourself, first you need to decide what material you plan to make a built-in wardrobe from, it depends on:

how to build blueprints;
what tools are needed for installation;
what assembly scheme to use in order to build the cabinet in the place allotted to it.

Depending on the specifics of the material, the process of arranging cabinets in niches can differ dramatically.

Material	Compliance with the task	Justification	Solution
Wood	Not very suitable for built-in cabinet type.	The air humidity in the niche is higher relative to the room as a whole. Wooden parts can swell, warp. The reason is humidity drops from a blank wall towards the doors. When the cabinet is opened, the humidity changes dramatically, which triggers negative processes.	Take straight-grained wood, without knots, twists, cracks. The tree should be matured and saturated with water-polymer emulsion or hot drying oil as much as possible.
Lining	Limited fit.	Due to the fact that the sash frames will need to be made of wood, which is sensitive to moisture.	Use only when the interior solution requires it.
Gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard)	Unsuitable as a basis, although it has wide potential.	Heavy, fragile and low strength material. Not suitable for the manufacture of supporting structures. Can bend under its own weight. At vertical installation deformed.	Used for decoration only. The shelves are made in the form of a box-shaped spatial structure based on a frame. Putty and decorative finish required. Only standard C and U profiles with standard fasteners are suitable for the frame.
Laminate, MDF, fiberboard	Great choice.	Simple fabrication of the structure. Minimum costs. The materials are not sensitive to moisture changes.	Fiberboard - medium high density... A thin bar inside a niche will quickly lead.

Wooden lining

Drywall

You will also need to purchase:

self-tapping screws with dowels;
guides and mechanism for sliding wardrobe doors;
double sided tape;
alcohol wipes for degreasing surfaces;
friezes to guides;
mounting corners;
racks hung;
rod holders.

Before installing, collect all the tools necessary for the installation of the cabinets:

electronic rangefinder or tape measure;
level;
electric jigsaw for cutting;
screwdriver;
screwdriver;
electric drill for holes in the wall;
hammer.

Before starting work, it is useful to look at the installation instructions for built-in wardrobes.

Rollers and fasteners

Materials (edit)

Development of design and drawing

Before taking on the drawings of the cabinet, you need to understand how to make measurements correctly. The niche in which it is planned to install the wardrobe will not always have the correct geometric shape... That is why measurements in a niche must be carried out according to the rules:

first, measurements are taken along the back wall: at the top, at the middle level, at the bottom;
then we also measure the "frontal part" with an indent;
height measurement also takes place in three positions from the "rear" and from the "front".

Installing a built-in wardrobe without such measurements can lead to the fact that a case made without taking into account errors and differences will either not enter, or when trying to assemble the structure, serious gaps will be found. It will be a shame if the cut shelf turns out to be less than the required size and simply fails. Before embedding, carefully calculate all the errors in order to leave an allowance for installation. Sometimes it happens that as a result, the drawing of the shelves resembles a trapezoid, and not the expected rectangle. It all depends on the quality of the walls, the density of the plaster on inner corners niches.

Next, go to the drawing. If you do not have drawing skills, it is better to contact the designer. Based on your data and wishes regarding the material, you will be made a drawing of the future wardrobe in a niche. In such work, one must not forget to take into account the thickness of the material, the edges, if you want to thoroughly close the cutting points, and the margin for the mechanism of the compartment itself, on which it is also necessary to lay about 10 cm.

Having detailed diagrams on hand, you can be sure that the manufacture of cabinet parts will be more accurate. The allowances left when taking into account the errors of the walls will make the embedding more accurate.

Now, with regard to the design of the future cabinet: not having a lot of experience in drawing up drawings and installation, give up complex radial structures of the facade. Here you need not just skills, but good professional experience in order to calculate and then correctly assemble such a structure. Limit more simple option cabinet, which is guaranteed to be able to control during assembly. Order all decorative elements strictly in accordance with the drawing.

Sawing and fittings

Having decided to independently assemble the built-in wardrobe, leave the sawing to a professional furniture shop... Building a high-quality drawing is half the battle, another question is whether you have enough skills to cut out all the necessary parts and how long it will take you. The involvement of assistants in this situation is more than justified:

furniture makers buy materials at a wholesale price, you will have to do the same at a retail price, and this is an overpayment of at least 20 percent;
According to your drawings, specialists with the help of computerized equipment will cut parts - quickly and with fewer defects. Cutting on the machine is of better quality than doing it manually, even with the best saw;
you will have the edges trimmed. This will help protect the built-in cabinet parts from moisture and excessive material swelling. For details that will be visible, this will give an additional decorative effect. The edge can be simple or thickened with chamfers.

If you take laminate or MDF for the product, then for the case the thickness should be at least 16 mm, and for the doors - 25 mm.

As for the fittings, they can be purchased at specialized furniture stores... Before proceeding with the installation, make sure that you have everything you need.

Preparation of parts

Cabinet details

Fastening the frame

Before proceeding with the installation of the case, it is useful to watch a step-by-step video of the built-in wardrobe with your own hands. Even professionals periodically watch tutorials. If you have basic experience, then this will help build a sequential algorithm of actions. Detailed description procedures will indicate the important nuances that built-in furniture implies. The installation instructions will allow you to keep the order installation works and get a functional result.

Built-in wardrobes differ in that in fact they do not have their own frame. The floor, walls and ceiling of the cabinet are created in the niche itself. In this case, the frame will mean a false panel to which the compartment guides are attached.

When attaching such a frame, it is very important to compensate for unevenness if the ceiling, floor or walls slope. If this is not done, the coupé door track will roll and movement of the doors may not be possible.

To compensate for the existing gaps, inlays from MDF or laminate are used. The frame is leveled and fixed with self-tapping screws to the walls along with the tabs. The decoration of the slots is carried out using friezes - decorative strips that are attached to double-sided tape or glued. The frieze is pre-cut from chipboard of the same tone with the rest of the cabinet parts with allowances that are cut directly during the installation work.

Measurements and drawing up a drawing

Installation of frame frames

Fastening the frame

Preparing doors

For built-in furniture, the doors are the façade. The most common coupe configuration is doors with internal guides. The drive rollers can be located both at the top (suspended) and at the bottom (thrust). Floor option characterized by noiselessness and greater reliability, but require maintenance. Owners will need to regularly clean the grooves from dust. Top construction built-in rollers is less reliable than the first, but does not require special supervision, since the grooves are not clogged.

We assemble the door, depending on your choice, the rollers are fastened directly to the canvas or using special frames. It can be attached to the canvas only when wood or chipboard is used. The facade can be made of plastic, glass, slabs, mirrors. Some boast a wardrobe with a prefabricated front.

Most often, doors are installed along two or three parallel guides. Having collected the rails in this way, you will receive several doors, which, in the process of using the cabinet, will move overlapping each other. The minimum overlap with such an installation in a closed form will be 2 cm.

If the number of door leaves is even, then they are distributed in a checkerboard pattern along the guides, and if the number is even, then they can be left joining. The disadvantage of the coupe system is considered by many to be the inability to access the entire built-in structure at once. If, according to the description, the cabinet has doors different sizes, there is a high probability of hard-to-reach dead zones.

Another option for mounting the guides is external. It is used much less often, since not often there is room for built-in wardrobes to lay guides along the wall. Such an installation is suitable for samples built into a niche, otherwise the door leaves will sag. With this installation, dead zones are excluded, but it is required to leave free space for doors. If you want the doors to be removed, it will be necessary to mount a special box. It makes sense to be puzzled by such an idea when planning a major overhaul.

Coupe door scheme

Shelf fixing

The installation of the cabinet shelves is carried out before the doors are fixed. When you have assembled the trim panels of the frame, proceed with the marking of the inner space to secure the mounting angles. It is recommended to use a level so that the shelves of the cabinet are installed strictly horizontally. Directly during installation, thanks to the allowances left, the parts canvases are adjusted to the inner space of the cabinet. This is a normal procedure, but you should act carefully so as not to cut down too much:

if the shelf is more than 800 mm long, be sure to install additional fasteners in the center area. The fact is that such a length under load contributes to the deflection of the material, so the structure should be strengthened;
if you plan to install honeycomb shelves (lattice), use furniture clips;
for the installation of cruciform structures when dividing the shelves into sections, dowels with additional fastening to PVA are used.

When assembling corner models of a compartment, the shelves can be fastened by means of a rack in the corner part. This option helps to maximize the use of space in the corner itself and prevent the formation of a dead zone.

Installation of shelves

Shelf mounting option

Painting and installation of doors

If your plans are to paint the cabinet doors, then do the coloring before installing the shelves. Thus, the door leaves will have time to dry while you are assembling the interior of the cabinet. For wardrobes, sliding doors are very good acrylic enamels... They give beautiful colour, a shiny surface and, if necessary, wash perfectly. It will be a practical choice if your closet is intended for storage. outerwear... Some people prefer to cover the structure with linseed oil. It is better to prime the surface before painting, then the paint will lie flat and will hold well.

For painting the interior surfaces of the cabinet, it is also better to choose paint that will be easy to clean and will not leave marks on things. Be sure to choose quality option, otherwise you will have to repaint the cabinet very soon.

After all the details of the cabinet are dry, you can reinstall the doors. If during the installation of the guides there was no skewing, the mechanism will move smoothly, without jamming.

Fastening the guides

Door installation

Light and finishing

After the cabinet structure is fully assembled, you need to take care of the finishing department and the lighting device. Make sure that there are no defects on the internal surfaces of the cabinet structure that could later lead to damage to things. Close all the caps of the self-tapping screws, eliminate cosmetic imperfections.

For large closet lighting is necessary. It is recommended to use LED devices for illumination. They save energy, do not heat up and will not burn things when heated. At the same time, they provide enough light so that you can easily find the right thing inside the cabinet.

Self-production of a sliding wardrobe built into a niche is a good idea for amateurs self assembly structures that will not only be able to make measurements and draw up a drawing, but also read it when they receive it from a specialist. Despite the seeming simplicity, the work still requires certain skills, therefore, to the decision self-arrangement niche wardrobe should be approached responsibly. Sometimes independent work it may come out cheaper than the work of professionals and vice versa. The video will help to make such a built-in wardrobes with your own hands, and the embedding process is not as complicated as it might seem.

A wardrobe is something monumental and unshakable. Along with a mattress, he must be present in any more or less living room. A woman can forgive you for the absence of a TV or a spare towel in the apartment - but there must be a wardrobe. Even on the first visit to your (so far) bachelor den, the femina is already beginning to figure out the location of her own clothes and cosmetics, so that men without closets automatically fall out of her sphere of interests. Prices in furniture stores are focused on gullible hamsters, so here I will explain how to make a cabinet with your own hands.

Such a cabinet is not so difficult to make.

You shouldn't even try to pretend to be a cabinetmaker - everything has already been invented before us. It remains only to fit the box in size and understand the manufacturing technology. For example, I chose a wardrobe that I made for my friend in the children's room. It is easy to assemble and functional.

Cabinet detail

The dimensions below are calculated based on the use of 18mm laminated chipboard and 0.5mm melamine self-adhesive edge. For the facades I used a sliding system of the "Commander" type, which I ordered from the corresponding company, simply dictating the dimensions of the opening in the dispatcher window. The entire facade system cost me 4,200 rubles, including seals and mirrors. The dimensions are as follows: 2284x1164 mm - clean door opening.

I designed the drawers as for myself: on full roll-out rails from good manufacturer... Roller guides for inner drawers are not suitable - they eat up space and do not hold a large load. Considering the question: "how to make a wardrobe?", It is necessary to take into account even those nuances that at first glance seem insignificant - alteration will take a lot of time and nerves.

Based on the existing picture, we call the shelves "left" and "right" - relative to the partition.

In the manufacture of this cabinet, laminated chipboard of two colors was used.

In the photo, the wardrobe is two-tone. Buying two types of laminated chipboard is justified when you make a set of furniture, but when making one cabinet, different trims will remain. Define color range on one's own.

2400x650 mm - 2 pcs. Cabinet sides. I made a selection in advance for the plinth so that the cabinet would stand close to the wall.
2284x550 mm - partition. It is better to immediately mark the left and right sides on it - otherwise you will get lost.
1200x750 mm - top cover. It is rounded and protrudes 100 mm forward relative to the sidewalls - just for beauty.
1164x650 mm - cabinet bottom.
1164x100 mm - 2 pcs. Front and rear plinths.
500x550 mm - 3 pcs. Left shelves from the side of the drawers.
646x550 mm - 3 pcs. Right shelves.
495x200 mm - 2 pcs. Drawer fronts.
500x150 mm - 4 pcs. Drawer sides.
438x150 mm - 4 pcs. Front and back walls of drawers.

Hardboard details:

472x500 mm - 2 pcs. The bottom of the boxes.
2315x1195 mm - back wall cabinet.

Saw off the rods under the hangers from a single round section a rod with a diameter of 22 millimeters, which is sold in furniture fittings stores - at least, I did just that, having bought end fasteners for them there. The length of the rod segments should be one millimeter less than the floor width, that is, 645 and 499 mm, respectively.

Thus, we give clearance for ease of installation. In general, making a cabinet with your own hands implies a certain minimum rudiment of design talent in the performer, so I advise you to realistically evaluate your capabilities.

I entrusted a woman to buy drawer handles for my own peace of mind. I know from experience that the shape of the handles, the color of the car and the upholstery of female sofas are much more important than the structural reliability and practicality of the product or device itself.

Preparing cabinet parts

You will not be able to saw off parts at home with the required accuracy if you do not have a circular saw equipped with a victorious soldered disc at home. If you have it - either it is a disguised mother-in-law, or you are a super professional, you can make a wardrobe yourself and you are reading it in vain. Sawing is best ordered in construction markets selling chipboard and hardboard, or in firms that manufacture custom-made furniture - it is inexpensive.

But it is really possible to save money on gluing the edge, and quite a lot. Professionals charge from ten rubles per running meter of glued edge, and the edge itself can be purchased for two and a half rubles and use the data not for boredom with your hands.

For this purpose I expropriated an old working iron from my wife.

You will also be able to trim parts if you set the iron to three-quarters of its maximum power and follow my example. Attach the edge with the adhesive side to the desired end and run it several times over the top with an iron. Iron the hot edge with a dry cloth to press the edges more tightly and trim off any excess with a dull knife. Blunt - so as not to damage the laminate. Roughness is best treated with fine-grained emery paper wrapped around an old cigarette case or a similar object - you need a "working" plane.

Do-it-yourself cabinet, and even made at home, must be durable, but assembled at an affordable common man fasteners. I preferred confirms (ask in furniture fittings stores) with dimensions of 5x70 mm.

The photographs show which parts need to be drilled into the butt and which ones should be drilled into the plane, so I will just clarify: Drill through holes with a diameter of 8 mm into the plane, and 5 mm into the butt and to a depth of about 60 mm.

The boxes are assembled as follows:

Drawer assembly diagram

I made all the shelves stationary, because the closet was intended for the nursery, and you cannot trust children and women. If you want, you can make a couple of shelves removable by placing them on the shelf racks, but then you have to drill new holes every time your woman moves something in the closet. I do not recommend giving her room for imagination.

Marking the sides and partitions of the cabinet

We mark all the axes for the shelves on top of the sidewalls and partitions, since they coincide exactly on top. As I said, you can play with the height of all the shelves except one.

Attention! The left shelf above the boxes is marked along the axis of confirmations:

From the bottom of the sidewall 537 millimeters.
From the bottom of the partition 419 mm.

You can laugh at my scrupulousness, but I do not advise you to deviate from the given dimensions - you will be branded as curved. Also observe the fastening line of the drawer guides:

From the bottom of the sidewall: 215 and 410 millimeters.
From the bottom of the partition: 97 and 292 mm.

The guides with a length of 500 mm should recede from the rear ends of the sidewall and the partition by 30 mm, since I planned the inner facades of the drawers.

Assembling the cabinet

The first time I learned how to make a wardrobe myself back in pre-perestroika times. The problem immediately ceased to be such for two reasons:

I understood the principle.
I believed in myself.

The third figure shows how to assemble the boxes, and the cabinet, in essence, differs from the box only in size. A hexagonal bit is useful for a screed for confirmations - it is much more convenient to twist it than with a hand wrench.

The boxes are capacious, and the bottom nailed to the nails fell off after two days - I had to screw it with 4x16 screws. Nobody broke the back wall of the cabinet, and it adheres wonderfully to nails.

The guides for the doors are also screwed on with 4x16 mm self-tapping screws, and the distance from the front edge of the sidewalls and the bottom is better to be verified in place. The advantage of the commander's system is not only in the ease of sliding of the doors - they are quite easy to adjust by removing the cracks. This is absolutely necessary because cabinets of this size will inevitably "sag" and "bow" due to uneven floors or uneven loads.

Here I have explained how to make a cabinet quickly enough (the whole assembly took me two and a half hours), but I want to indicate possible "extensions".

Internal or external lighting, door closers and even "chlamos collectors" in the form of Ikeev's mini-commodes are perfectly integrated into such a cabinet. By adding the required number of millimeters to the horizontal dimensions, you can make a three-door wardrobe with additional internal bells and whistles - everything is in your hands.

You may not have been able to find suitable design... Or it didn't work out on budget. Or maybe I just wanted to make something with my own hands, thereby making the family proud of myself. Follow our instructions, put in a little effort - and very soon your hallway, loggia or bedroom will be decorated with a nice and functional wardrobe.

Where to begin?

So, you decided to do a real male (and maybe female) act and assemble the wardrobe with your own hands. The first step is to decide for what purpose you are doing it, how it should look and what functions to perform - in other words, organize the design.

This piece of furniture will serve you long years, therefore, it is worth approaching the preparatory stage with special attention:

Decide in which room you will place new wardrobe... Whether it will be a living room, a loggia or a corridor is important, because cabinets for different rooms, as a rule, differ in materials, fittings, and components. Then choose a place in the room and find out what size the planned product should be.
Calculate the design parameters: width, height and depth, space between shelves, number of shelves, hooks, hanger bars or other accessories.

Decide on the shade and design of the intended piece of furniture.
Traditionally, what will be in the cabinet determines how the interior space will look. There are the following principles: "raw" items are placed aside, the smallest and most useful items are stored at eye level, "dry" items are stored on the upper shelves, and valuable items are stored in drawers. For example, you cannot place a section for outerwear or umbrellas in the middle - dampness from it will spoil things on the right and left. If it is located in the corner, then the moisture will go outside. Drawers or shelves for bed linen should not be placed above the floor - there should be a separation of about forty centimeters from the surface, so that dust and moisture do not enter. Better move them to the top section. The more carefully you think over the placement of the content, the smaller the width is at the shelves, which means that space is saved. It is worth remembering that a successful layout is a guarantor of convenient operation and long service life of a piece of furniture.

Popular models

There are many models of cabinets, which, as a rule, can be made from the same materials, but serve different purposes.

For clothes. Structures of this type are distinguished by the presence of special components. In the closet for storing clothes, there must be a hanger bar (transverse or longitudinal), shelves and hooks. You can also add a mirror to this list, drawers for underwear and a shoe cabinet. Very often, such a piece of furniture is built-in or wall-mounted - it is installed along the wall using an artificial plasterboard niche. A frame is assembled from wood or metal profiles, which is attached to the floor. Then it is sheathed with plasterboard, the structure is putty and sanded. After this stage, the installation of shelves and doors (swing or "compartment").

Shoe. There are two types of shoe storage structure. The first is as an integral part of the closet for storing clothes. The second - as a separate chest of drawers, on the lid of which keys, gloves, hats and other small things can be stored. The shelves do not have to be wooden - it is possible to choose the type of dish drainer. Lattice shelves made of metal combine functionality with an attractive appearance... Be sure to leave the bottom of the cabinet open, otherwise excess water will accumulate inside. The depth of the shelves should match the length of the box from the largest pair of shoes in your apartment.

Book. Models bookcases are divided into open and closed. The latter protect books from dust, moisture and light, but the former look better in the interior. They also distinguish cabinet cabinets (the most common), modular (making it possible to combine elements and change the appearance), built-in (with the system sliding doors), angular. Most often, these pieces of furniture are collected from chipboard or MDF. The classic depth of a bookcase is 400 millimeters, a height of 2 meters and a width of 800 millimeters. Most books and magazines fit comfortably inside at these rates. The shelves can be mounted not on the corners, but cut into the sides of the cabinet. For the aesthetics of furniture, use decorative moldings- overhead convex strips.

Swing. This type is one of the simplest and most familiar for Russian apartments. The design can be very different, and the content includes shelves, drawers, bedside tables or hanger bars. These cabinets are used to store some personal belongings, clothes, dishes, items for hobbies or handicrafts - in general, for anything.
Embedded. In addition, you can assemble a cabinet placed in a niche or under a staircase, if possible. These models allow you to save space and refresh your interior design.

Options for different rooms

The design and internal content of the cabinet depend on the purpose of the room and the required functionality.

If you're looking for a living room storage device small size or narrow corridor, give priority to wardrobes (built-in models) that do not take up much space, but allow you to fit a large number of of things.
If you need to choose a wardrobe for a bedroom, then pay attention to spacious structures that house a variety of shelves, drawers and modules, bedside tables, rods, shelves and hooks. Both sliding wardrobes and conventional swing models are suitable.
Kitchen sets usually consist of hinged cabinets with big amount drawers.

In the children's room, non-standard models look good, for example, modular bookcases, which are distinguished by bright colors.
The simplest swing models with a couple of shelves and mirrored surfaces are suitable for the bathroom.
The hallway is a place for built-in structures, including corner and shoe dressers.
Cabinets on balconies and loggias are equipped with numerous shelves and compartments and represent swing structures... It should be borne in mind that a chipboard cabinet can only be installed on an insulated loggia, otherwise the shields will begin to warp, and the furniture will not serve you for a long time. Natural wood properly treated with water-repellent compounds will last much longer, even in the presence of excess moisture. Open shelves are the simplest option for a balcony cabinet.

What to make of?

The materials for the manufacture of lockers are not very diverse.

Furniture boards or slabs

Chipboard, laminated chipboard and MDF are boards or boards made of pressed shavings, fibers and sawdust. MDF is a fibreboard made from very fine chips by hot pressing. This material is dense, flexible and easy to process. Fasteners inside such plates last much longer, in addition, they do not deform with changes in temperature and humidity. MDF is quite environmentally friendly and highly durable.

Chipboard - chipboard - consists of pressed and glued sawdust and large shavings with the addition of binding resins. Such material is quite fragile and afraid of water, however, it can be achieved with an exceptionally flat surface. Particleboard is usually chosen for bookcases and wardrobes. Plates benefit from cost in comparison with MDF and laminated chipboard.

Chipboard is a laminated chipboard, the surface of which is treated with a special melamine film. In common people it is called "laminate". The material is resistant to moisture and has a wide color palette. Chipboard is much stronger than chipboard due to the fact that the coating is pressed into the very structure of the board.

All three varieties are quite cheap, easy to handle, strong and durable.

Plywood

Plywood is a durable material that does not dry out, is environmentally friendly and does not require additional processing due to its smooth surface. It is sold in solid sheets, so it does not require joining. If you buy processed and varnished plywood, you will save time, due to the fact that the cabinet only needs to be assembled.

Cardboard

Making furniture out of boxes is no longer a fun hobby - it is now a serious direction in interior design. Having picked up high-quality cardboard, you can make not only a wardrobe, but also a chest of drawers, a table and even a bed. Such furniture is environmentally friendly, cheap, mobile and surprisingly durable. The only drawback is that with a long stay in a humid environment, it loses its serviceability. To give strength to cardboard, it is customary to use parquet varnish... You can work with this material by layer-by-layer gluing of sheets, creating frame objects, which are subsequently pasted over with paper, modular structures and even origami. Cardboard furniture should be symmetrical, or with the presence of additional supports, and with the presence of transverse parts. Keep in mind that the thicker the cardboard, the stronger it is, and light cardboard is not as strong as dark cardboard.

When designing furniture, remember that 60 millimeters will be occupied by the decor of the furniture, so this length must be taken into account when drawing up drawings.

Solid boards

Wooden cabinet from pine or spruce will serve you for decades without changing its qualities. In addition, wood furniture always looks elegant and weighty. Their cost depends on size, damage, dryness and breed. Pine and spruce are the most commonly selected, and hardwoods are also popular.

Lining

Wardrobes lined with clapboard can be placed on the balcony or in the closet. This material is cheap, durable and aesthetic. When choosing a material, it is recommended to use hardwood lining, since conifers deteriorate from long exposure to the sun.

Drywall

It is possible to make a drywall cabinet, but still not recommended. This material is rather heavy and fragile, intended for finishing something. Therefore, it is not possible to store any tangible load in a drywall cabinet.

A drywall sheet sags within six months, even if there is nothing on it.

Fittings

Furniture fittings for wardrobes include:

mounts for shelves, hangers and mirrors;
furniture hinges;
roller and ball guides;
handles and decorative fittings;
thrust bearings and legs;
retractable mechanisms.

Everything that is used for fastening to the wall (bolts, ties and other hardware), as well as for opening and closing doors and drawers, must be made of high quality materials.

How to draw up a drawing yourself?

At first glance, assembling a cabinet is a rather troublesome and resource-intensive business, but do not forget about all the possible advantages:

you personally select materials, which means you have the opportunity to save money and buy only the highest quality;
having understood the instructions, you will understand that making a wardrobe with your own hands is not so difficult: they are used ordinary tools, and the materials are easy to handle;
making furniture can turn into a hobby that brings tangible dividends.

After completing the preparatory stage, proceed to create a drawing. The planned model of the cabinet must be transferred in detail to a sheet of A4 paper. First, draw the frame of the future product, indicate the dimensions of the walls, doors and bases. Then transfer the shelves and interior parts to the paper. Again, indicate the length and width on the diagram. Consider the dimensions of the structure and the layout of the apartment, calculate the number of shelves, hooks, rods, the presence of mirrors and their placement in the interior space. Do not forget that the width of ordinary clothes hangers is 40-42 centimeters, and when you hang something on them, it becomes even larger. Use a tape measure, pencil, and piece of paper to complete this step.

Also, drawings can be made in special computer programs: Autocad or "Basis-furniture maker".

When the drawings are ready, you need to start sawing the parts. However, it is quite difficult to do this at home - the machine is very expensive, and the use of a jigsaw leads to the appearance of chips, so hand over the sketches with dimensions for manufacturing to professionals who will do it quickly and efficiently.

When you receive the finished parts, go shopping for the fittings. Mostly you will need confirmations, rivets, guides, corners and holders. Consider design features and your own preferences.

When choosing a system for opening doors, do not forget that they can open sideways, up and down, or represent a "compartment".

How to assemble: step-by-step instructions for assembling a wall cabinet

The first step is to mark up for shelf supports and drawer guides, depending on where you want to see them and in what quantity. Make sure the parts are parallel. Attach the fasteners and, if possible - the cabinet is at the junction of two walls - install the shelves. Secure them with glue and nails if desired. Reinforce the doors with awnings. Also screw on the rails if you are assembling a wardrobe.

Then you should pick up the right drill and symmetrically drill holes for confirmation for butt joints. Do not forget about the holes for rods, shelves and partitions.

Start assembling the frame against the wall: furniture boards, place plywood or solid boards according to the drawings, connect together using nails, screws and glue. Place the frame a few millimeters lower than the ceiling level. Install the side frame first and then the front frame. Leave gaps between cabinet and frames.

Once the frames are connected, align the position with wedges.

If you are using chipboard, add a decorative edge at the seams. Iron it across the towel and then cut extra edge... The iron must be set to three-quarters of the maximum power, and then run over the edge, attached with the glue side to the chipboard. Then iron the hot edge with a dry cloth to press the edges more tightly, and cut off the excess with a knife. If you are using unpainted boards, then it's time to "refine" the cabinet with paints, skin and varnish. Roughness is best treated with fine sandpaper wrapped around an object of suitable size and shape. You can also use special furniture tapes.

Attach the doors to the body using hinges or special hardware.

Fasten the end caps on the confirmations, the color of which should match the color of the entire cabinet. Install door handles and decorative elements: light, mirrors, etc. Cabinets are made of flammable materials, so indoor lights should be powered by low-power 12W halogen lamps. Never use a 220 W permanent eyeliner - this is very dangerous. The light in the cabinet should be powered from an AC / DC adapter plugged into the outlet with double-insulated wires.

Examples and variants

When assembling cabinets different models, there are rules.

Swing

If you are making a swing cabinet, then carefully measure the dimensions of the doors. Vertically, everything should be millimeter to millimeter, otherwise they will not fit, or they will not completely cover the inner space. The width of the flaps should be two to three millimeters less than the opening, since they are attached to special elements that also have their own width.

Shelf mounts and hooks must be installed at the base of the cabinet. Place opposite corners strictly horizontally and check the correct installation using a level. Mounting swing doors produced at the end of the assembly. To the bottom swing cabinet legs are often attached. Kitchen legs represent a good choice since they are different low cost and adjustable height.

Thanks to the legs, all the weight will not go to the bottom, and it will not sag in a short time.

Angular

Start the installation of the corner cabinet by attaching metal corners to the walls and ceiling, which will further relieve the doors from distortion. Then assemble the frame, fit the runners, install the door and the interior “contents”. Corner cabinets are triangular, L-shaped, trapezoidal and five-walled.

There is no need to doubt, you will cope with this task perfectly. The most important thing is to correctly make all the calculations of the parameters of the future cabinet, the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will help you in this. And, of course, where, without diligence and patience, tune in to a positive result - and you will succeed.

Step-by-step instruction

First, decide how you want your new wardrobe to look like. If you have good artistic skills, try to create an image on paper, even better if it is a drawing of future furniture. To make it easier for you, you can use the example indicated in this article. Here the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will be described in detail. The design of the furniture will be such that to create it, you will need a wall niche in your apartment. This type of furniture is very relevant, since the built-in wardrobe is spacious and does not take up extra space in the apartment.

Figure 1. Marking of the vertical plane of the front part of the cabinet.

The material for the future cabinet should be selected in accordance with the length and depth of your niche, and the height of the ceiling is also taken into account. For this example, a particle board with laminated coating... In a shortened version, this construction material known as laminated chipboard. In order to build a cabinet, you need a material that is approximately 16 mm thick. The construction market offers laminated chipboard different sizes, in this case the most suitable 600 x 2440. Material of this size is convenient for the manufacture of all elements of the future cabinet.

What does a built-in wardrobe consist of? First of all, these are doors that represent the facade of the furniture, then - a pair of bearing racks, shelves and basement elements. On this example the simplest option for assembling a cabinet with a solid facade will be described.

In order to make the cabinet yourself, you will need to go through the following stages of work: evaluate a niche, mark the plane of the facade of the future cabinet, mount vertical racks, make and install a roof, shelves, cornices, plinths and doors.

In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:

electric planer;
level;
screwdriwer set;
roulette;
pencil;
drill;
grinder or sandpaper for grinding;
self-tapping screws;
glue;
laminated chipboard sheets.

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Niche and its dimensions

In the example shown in this article, the niche size would be 3000 x 600 x 2650 mm. The length is 3 m, the depth is 0.6 m, the ceiling height is 2.65 m. The size of the niche depth was not chosen by chance, when assembling the cabinet, do not forget that the hanger for your clothes should fit into it freely.

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Cabinet front plane

A very important stage in the assembly of the cabinet is marking the vertical plane of the facade, look carefully at fig. 1. The fact is that the installation of all bearing racks in a vertical position is carried out on the basis of this marking.

When dimensioning the front plane, keep in mind that when installing vertical posts, there should be no gaps along the walls.

Figure 2. Marking of the most distant point (in the upper right corner).

To avoid this, select the slab that is the most suitable size. In this example, a slab 60 cm wide is shown. In this regard, it is necessary to mark the farthest point on the intended plane. In order for you to understand correctly how to proceed, pay attention to the following fig. 2.

In the example shown, the same point is marked on the right side of the upper corner. To all the remaining points, the uprights of the vertical position are sawn and thus reduced in width. In order for the vertical racks to be conveniently mounted, you should draw a projection of the plane of the future cabinet in the form of a straight line. To do this, you can use a pencil or chalk. The niche shown in this example is 3 m long. It is very important that the floor in the room is as flat as possible (in order to make sure of this, you should use the level). The next step is to install the racks.

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Vertical racks and their installation

The installation of the uprights starts from the lowest point on your floor. Use the level to find it. In the case of an imperfectly flat floor and with the lowest point, for example, located on the left side, the installation of the racks must be started from this place. The cabinet shown in this example will have a separate roof from the ceiling, since the length of the base plate is 2440 mm.

Markings should be applied to the floor along which you have to establish verticals. To simplify the task, use the one shown in fig. 3 by drawing.

Here you can choose one of two ways:

calculate the step of the racks, while it is necessary to take into account the width of each door of your future cabinet;
equal distances between the posts in this case should be set "by eye". Then the doors are sawn to the same width. In the example given in this text, the cabinet will not have exactly equal spacing between the uprights.

Figure 3. Installation diagram of vertical racks.

The fact is that you have to install the doors with the help of hinges, and they will make it possible to completely cover the edges of the posts with the door. When installing doors on intermediate posts, you will need to use other hinges that will cover only a third of the vertical post. Thus, the distance between the second and third posts you will get 8 mm more (an example is shown in the previous figure).

According to the example of cabinet assembly given in the text, the next step is to install the upright post from the left edge. The vertical should be placed on the floor; using the leveling method, exclude its protrusion beyond the facade plane. To do this, you should arm yourself with an electric plane and a level. The stand must be aligned on both sides. Next, draw a line on the wall that should correspond to the size of the end of the rack, and then remove the vertical rack for a while. A horizontal line is drawn along the entire length of the niche from the previously drawn line using a level. Thus, you need to adjust each individual cabinet rack, focusing on the original height.

The next stage of work will be the installation of ready-made racks. To do this, you need corners (it is better to use chrome plated ones). For any vertical post, at least 5 elements must be used. With a couple of corners, the vertical is screwed to the floor, the rest will be needed for fastening to the wall. For the correct placement of the corners, mark the locations of the future cabinet shelves. The corners should be screwed to the panels using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16. Installation to the wall is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16, plastic dowels 6 x 35.

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Cabinet roof fabrication and installation

In the example of this text, the upper part of the structure will be made of two elements. The roof has dimensions of 800 x 2958 mm, and additional element will be 200 x 2958 mm in size. Thus, the thickness of the visor will increase. The roof structure of the cabinet shown in fig. 4, as you can see, has an arched visor. Its radius is 12.7 m.

Figure 4. Cabinet roof structure.

In order to cut the arc, you need a jigsaw, all uneven areas of the surface should be carefully sanded. The roof of the cabinet is almost finished, then it should be used as a template in order to make a cover plate. With the help of PVC edges, the edges of the main element and the additional overlay are glued.

The radial edges of the parts should also be glued. To do this, you need a PVC edge and glue (you can use liquid nails glue). The glue should be applied in a strip of about 1 m. The next step is to glue the edge to the end of the panel. In this way, stick on the rest. Using a piece of cotton fabric, the edge is neatly smoothed over the slab. Next, using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 35, you need to pull off the cabinet roof and the additional panel.

After you have completely prepared the roof for installation, proceed with its installation by uprights. To attach the roof to each pillar, you need two corners. In this case, the distance between the edge of the corner and the front edge should not be less than 16 mm.

Increasingly, people are trying to replace ordinary wardrobes with sliding wardrobes in their apartments, houses and even offices. But, what is the reason for the popularity of this type of furniture, what are its pros and cons, what is it made of and is it possible to make it yourself? To deal with these questions and find out how to make a wardrobe with your own hands (the drawings attached at the end will greatly facilitate the task) will help our today's review.

Read in the article

What is a wardrobe and is it really needed in the house

Before proceeding with the analysis of this type of furniture according to the "bones", let us turn a little to history. The first wardrobes, if you could call them that, were in the apartments of Napoleonic officers, which was supposed to hide the storage place for clothes, shoes and other things from prying eyes. In the form we are accustomed to, sliding wardrobes appeared in America in the 20s of the last century and since then their popularity has only grown.

So what is a wardrobe? In a nutshell, this is a box with a back wall, drawers, hanger bars and most importantly:. It is the sliding systems for sliding wardrobes, which save space, that made this furniture so popular. Sliding wardrobes can be installed either separately from other furniture or built into niches.

What are good and bad wardrobes

In general, as we have already mentioned more than once, each device or device has its own advantages and disadvantages. There are also sliding wardrobes.

The advantages include:

ergonomics:
wide range of colors;
diversity interior decoration and functional content;
possibility individual planning and lighting;
the possibility of embedding in niches;
capacity;
fit into almost any;
versatility;

There are fewer drawbacks to sliding wardrobes, but still, they are, namely:

restriction on the sliding and width of the doors;
relatively limited access to the shelves of the cabinet (free-standing structure);
price.

What are the sliding wardrobes

All sliding wardrobes can be conditionally divided into two types: cabinet or free-standing and built-in (usually in niches). Each of these types has its own pros and cons.

Cabinet cabinets

The main advantage of cabinet or free-standing cabinets is their mobility. They consist of the same basic elements as, namely: sides, roof, bottom, shelves and doors. In addition, this design allows you to significantly save space due to sliding doors.

In addition to the straightforward design, you can also do it yourself corner cupboard with a sliding door system. True, there are nuances in its design.

Sawing material and selection of fittings

After the calculation of all the details is done, you need to draw up a cut map, which will reduce the amount of costs. In order not to bother, you can provide a list of parts with dimensions and their quantity to the company where you plan to buy the material. Most of the companies selling laminated chipboard, MDF and provide the service of cutting and sawing material.

As for furniture fittings, the main share of expenses falls on the purchase metal profile, rollers and guides for wardrobes, mesh baskets, tie holders, bars, etc. You also need to purchase drawer guides and handles.

Filling the cabinet

The filling of the cabinet largely depends on the needs and financial capabilities of the owner, since the installation, for example, of pantographs, and shoes, tie holders, etc., will cost a decent amount. Functionality should be thought out by us at the design stage. The closet must have a section for outerwear, a compartment with shelves for light things and bedding, drawers for small things and underwear, as well as a place for shoes and a mezzanine for rarely used and bulky things.

Both longitudinal and transverse pull-out bars can be used to place clothes on hangers. You can also make stationary sloped shelves for shoes or install special movable lattice baskets. The same applies to the shelves for linen. In general, manufacturers annually, if not monthly, offer more and more new and improved garment storage devices.

Everything about doors and sliding systems

Doors for a wardrobe can be the simplest (frameless), which is a piece of chipboard of the required size, equipped with plastic wheels. This is the simplest and most cheap option, which is now practically not used.

There are also more complex and expensive sliding door systems for wardrobes. They consist of upper and lower metal guides, a frame made of steel or aluminum profiles, rollers and filler made of chipboard, MDF, glass or mirror. Such systems are more reliable, durable and have a rather presentable appearance. The most popular are Komondor and Braun systems.

How to choose the right system for sliding doors will help this video:

Assembling the wardrobe

So, the drawing is there, the material has been ordered, sawn and even delivered, as well as the necessary fittings, it remains only to assemble our built-in wardrobe. Yes, they completely forgot about the tools. We need the following:

tape measure, metal ruler and square;
electric drill and;
confirmations;
screws 3.5 × 16 mm, 3.5 × 25 mm;
screwdriver;
confirmation drill with a diameter of 5 mm;
Phillips and hexagonal screwdriver bits;
hammer;
furniture nails for 20 ÷ 25 mm.

We collect the box and boxes

First of all, you need to inspect and mark all the details of the wardrobe. First, mark the sidewalls, placing them with their backs, towards each other. When marking up, be careful and take into account all the nuances. So, for example, the sidewall has a width of 600 mm, and the shelves are 500 mm, and during the marking, some according to the "park" make the same indent of 70 ÷ 80 mm on both sides and the barrel and the shelves. As a result, we get a mismatch of holes and extra holes. To prevent this from happening, when different width parts, the marking should be started from the trailing edge, that is, with a barrel width of 600 mm and a shelf of 500 mm, the holes should be at a distance of 70 and 430 mm.

If there is no experience of assembly for "live", then it is better to drill the holes right away.

The boxes are best assembled as shown in the illustration below. Two sidewalls, in our case, are best done with a length of 450 mm. The height of the sides of two drawers can be 140 mm, and one drawer can be doubled deeper. The guides must match the length of the drums or be shorter. In order to properly install the guides, you can use the template, which, in principle, is in the instructions for the product or search on the Internet.

The assembly is carried out using confirmations, and the facade is first attached to double-sided tape and the sweats are additionally fixed with screws 3.5 × 25 mm. After the boxes are assembled, you need to check the diagonals, nail the bottom of the fiberboard and install the guides.

When calculating the boxes, follow the following formula. Let's say we use 16 mm chipboard, and the width of the upper shelves is 450 mm. This means we subtract 24 mm from 450 mm. on the rails and 32 mm on the sides of the boxes. As a result, the length of the middle sides of the box will be 394 mm. It is very important when calculating openings, shelves, etc. take into account the thickness of the materials. Often newbies make these mistakes, which leads to spoilage of the material.

Important! It is imperative to check the diagonals before filling the bottom of the drawers or the back wall of the cabinet. If this is not done, then the drawers may enter with friction or not completely, and the doors will be skewed and do not fit normally with the sides of the cabinet.

If the upper or lower shelves are divided into several separate sections, but must be on the same line, then they need to be fastened according to the principle of a helicopter. In the lower figure, red dots mark the attachment points for such shelves.

After the box with shelves and drawers is assembled and the back wall is stuffed, you can lift and install the cabinet in the planned place. If there are gaps, then you can close them with false panels made of the same material as the entire structure. Fastening of decorative strips is carried out to the frame of the structure. After that, you can proceed to the manufacture of sliding doors.

To better understand all the processes of making furniture at home, the video "How to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands" will help:

Do-it-yourself compartment doors

In order not to be mistaken and not to spoil an expensive profile, you can use the special Aristo program for calculating compartment doors. Before making facades, you need to decide on their filling, that is, whether they will be glass, mirrored, made of laminated chipboard or combined.

After making the calculations, you can start assembling. First you need to mark to make holes in the side profiles for fasteners. If the filling is glass or mirrored, then we put a silicone gasket on the material and put a long piece of profile on it. Next, we attach the upper and lower blanks, and in the end we "put on" the last element of the frame. After that, you can start tightening the parts together using the screws that come with the kit, only this must be done carefully so as not to pinch or rip off the thread.

We install the guides for the wardrobe on the bottom and the lid and fix them with screws. The doors can now be installed. If you find a loose fit of the facade to the sidewall, then you need to adjust the sliding wardrobe doors.

Rollers for sliding wardrobes

The system of rollers for sliding doors of wardrobes plays a very important role. It is the choice of the system and depends on the comfort of use of the facades, as well as the weight that they can withstand without compromising the work.

So, for example, a roller system for a frameless door can withstand a weight of about 15 kg, and more serious and expensive mechanisms can withstand facades weighing 60 ÷ 100 kg. It is better, of course, to choose expensive systems from a trusted manufacturer, especially if the doors are made of mirrors or glass with a sandblasted pattern.

After the doors are installed on the rollers in the guides, you need to install the slag on their long sides. In fact, it is a bump stop and softens the impacts of facades on the sidewalls, and also prevents dust from entering the cabinet.

In principle, by installing and adjusting sliding doors, the wardrobe is completed. All that remains is to wipe off a marker or pencil, brush off sawdust and wipe it with a furniture care product and you can enjoy the creation of your hands.

The presented video shows the do-it-yourself assembly of the doors of the wardrobe:

Photo gallery of interesting options for sliding wardrobes

We examined what a wardrobe is, what it consists of and is made of. We also found out that you can make such furniture yourself. However, most people still prefer to contact specialized companies that make custom-made kitchens, living rooms, nurseries and wardrobes. Let's see how the manufacturers of cabinet furniture make people happy.

PVC Film Decorative Stickers

The easiest option for decorating facades for wardrobes is to use vinyl stickers. The film can be easily glued on and, if necessary, replaced with a new one. Vinyl films are available in various patterns and different shapes... Anyone can afford such decor.

What you need to consider when choosing a wardrobe

Before you buy or order a wardrobe, you need to consider a few important points, on which in the future the durability of the product, the comfort of use and aesthetic enjoyment of this piece of furniture will depend.

Materials and accessories. It is clear that they must be of high quality, durable and have all quality and safety standards. Best of all, of course, if they come from well-known trusted manufacturers, since furniture is not the same household item that is bought for 1 ÷ 3 years.
Shape and dimensions. When buying a sliding wardrobe, of course, it is best to know in advance the dimensions of the place where it is planned to be installed and to be guided by them accordingly. It is also necessary to take into account the shape of the cabinet. If it will just stand against a wall or in a niche, then you should choose a rectilinear structure, but if you intend to install it in a corner, then purchase corner model, and if there is large room you can order a combined model - angular + rectilinear.
Content or functionality. Here, of course, it largely depends on the needs and the wallet. You hardly need a pantograph, mesh laundry baskets or tie holders in a small closet. The longitudinal bar is enough for outerwear, shelves for linen and drawers for small things.
The quality of sliding door systems. Since sliding facades in a wardrobe make up almost the lion's share of the cost, it is natural to take their quality seriously. The comfort of their use depends on the quality and reliability of sliding systems. It should be said right away that the most simple system, the so-called "Polish" is not very good option- "crashes" literally after a year of use.

Where can you buy or order sliding wardrobes and how much is this pleasure

The sliding wardrobe can be purchased in a store or in a specialized furniture company. It should be said right away that the price of a custom-made wardrobe differs significantly from finished product... But what else affects cost besides individuality?

The cost of the cabinet also depends on the manufacturer. A model from a well-known manufacturer costs, for example, 50,000 ÷ 70,000 rubles. at half the price from copy manufacturers.

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