What wiring should be in a wooden house. Wiring in a wooden house - independent arrangement of the power supply system. Wiring in a wooden house with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

Electricity is the most important part of everyday life. Installing wiring in a wooden house personally quite difficult. It is necessary to possess knowledge in the field of electricity and comply with all the rules and regulations. Following the instructions below, you will install your own hands without resorting to the help of professional electricians.

What electrical wiring is suitable for a wooden house?

Wooden housing is one of the most ancient traditions of world architecture. Even today, in the context of a rich selection of various building materials, many owners prefer to build a building in their country site precisely from wood.

Modern housing is impossible to imagine without power supply. Conducting wiring in a wooden house has a number of features, primarily associated with the increased risk of fire and the requirements for laying cables.

Open or closed?

In wooden buildings, the wiring is made open or in a hidden way. The first way implies the external location of the wiring, on the wall or on the ceiling. This can be done as follows:

In addition to open, there is also a hidden way to install wiring. They can be used, if the final premises have not yet been carried out. In this case, the wiring is placed in the metal or metal pipes, the use of plastic is prohibited. The method is quite costly, but the electric conduit will be reliably hidden from prying eyes.

Unambiguously answer the question of which method of installing wiring is suitable for a wooden house, it is impossible. In each case, it is determined individually, given the level of skill of the electrician, the presence or absence of devices and tools for specific work.

Drawing up the scheme

All installation work or change wiring starts with the creation of a general scheme. A competently compiled project will allow the installation of wiring in accordance with the requirements of standards and guests. When drawing up a plan-scheme, a special attention is drawn to the following points:

Necessary components

Before starting the installation, the necessary tools and components are selected. An exemplary set for the arrangement of wiring in a wooden house with their own hands includes:

A set of tools with insulating handles. The kit may include dummy, passage, knife for working with electrical wiring, etc.
Electrical boards. There are devices made of plastic or metal. For wooden buildings, metallic is perfect. The size of the electrical panel depends on the number of cables that will be paved in accordance with the scheme developed.
Electrocabel.
Switches and sockets. The number of such devices depends on the amount of electrical appliances to be powered.
If you plan to make an external wiring, you need to purchase cable channels. For the internal required metal corrugation.
Counter.
Distribution boxes, self-tapping screws, insulating clamps, tape.

Calculation of materials and selection of suitable equipment

To calculate the required number of wire, it is enough to draw a diagram in detail and measure all the walls. During the work, it is very important not to be mistaken and pick up the cable of a suitable thickness.

The voltage of the standard electrical wiring of the residential building is 220 or 380 V. When calculating the load for the nominal one should be taken:

If there are no electric plates in the house - 5.5 kW.
If there are electrical stoves - 8.8 kW and more.

You should pay attention to the living area. The nominal is accepted 60 square meters. m. When exceeding this indicator, the estimated load increases by 1 percent per extra square meter.

Based on the planned power, the cross section of the wires is calculated. Basic data are shown in Table:

Wire thickness, mm.	Wire of media		Wire of aluminum
Wire thickness, mm.	Talk, A.	power, kWt	Talk, A.	power, kWt
0,75	8,0	1,8	-	-
1,0	9,0	2,0	-	-
1,2	-	-	8,0	1,8
1,5	12,0	2,6	-	-
2,0	-	-	12,0	2,6
2,5	20,0	4,4	16,0	3,5
4,0	25,0	5,5	20,0	4,4
6,0	32,0	7,0	25,0	5,5
10,0	50,0	11,0	40,0	8,8
16,0	65,0	14,3	50,0	11,0
25,0	95,0	21,0	70,0	15,4

For a wooden house, a three-core copper cable of the VG is suitable. When it is elected, it is necessary to pay attention to the label. For example, if the brand indicates VG3 * 2.5, the number 3 here means the number of veins, 2.5 - section.

The size of the electrical panel depends on the scheduled number of cables. The standard wiring can include a lightweight cable, a socket, electric stove, a counter (three places) and Uzo (2 places) are required. In this case, you can install a 12-seater shield.

The choice of sockets affects the aesthetic component. For wooden buildings, switches with ceramic base and contact groups of brass or bronze are suitable. Specific models depend on the inner or external electrical wiring.

The electric meter is selected by the accuracy class and the number of tariffs. Modern devices are divided into one idarithic and two tartarifers, which consider energy separately in the daily and night rate. The accuracy class is not less than the second.

Preparatory work

Before carrying out inside the room, you need to pay attention to the entry of the line. For a couple of decades, the number and power of household electrical appliances rose at times, increasing energy consumption, and the old line may not cope. The second reason is in the constant exposure to sunlight and other external factors on the cable outside the house. Metal cores are gradually taken off, which makes the use of electrical wiring less secure.

One of the weak points is to enter the cable to the house, which is often carried out through the wood wall of the attic. At one time it was believed that it is enough to place the wire into the rubber hose to ensure safety. At the same time, it was not taken into account that the rubber is a conductive material, and as it agrees, the appearance of sparking sites and local heating is possible.

To establish a line in a wooden house, you can use one of two ways: underground and air.

The first method is quite expensive. It requires earthworks, the location of the cable at a depth of about a meter, the decoration of the security zone with the corresponding signs. In the passage locations through the foundation and input to the house there are thick-walled metal sleeves. This method is more often used when erecting a new home.

For the airline, an electrical wire with a cross section of 16 millimeters will be required. The so-called SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) is often used, which exceeds 25 years. Connecting an external line to the input is exclusively outside the building. Installation of cable channels and installation of wiring is carried out after the initial shrinkage of the house and drying wood walls. Otherwise, the slightest changes of "geometry" will entail the deformation and destruction of the box.

Mounting work: step-by-step instructions

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house occurs in several stages:

Laying the main cable.
Installing junction boxes.
Installing outlets and switches.
Installation of lighting devices.
Installing the electric boiler.
Mounting the grounding circuit.

Consider each of the listed steps.

Cabling

Wiring is usually placed in cable channels or plinth. This happens in several stages:

Installation of distribution boxes

In each node, where branching on sockets and switches are deployed from the main cable, the junction box is installed. In this dispenser, the cable is divided and sent to the right rooms around the rooms.

Inside the junction box, the cable can be attached in several ways:

Install switches and sockets

Fastening sockets and switches occurs directly to the wall. Pre-stacked layer of isolation. In this capacity, aluminum or asbestos often use.

Wiring goes as soon as possible

Sockets are fastened hard enough. This eliminates further swaying and increasing. If a cable with three wires is suitable for a socket, yellow and green go to the grounding contact, the latter is for meals. The connection circuit is shown in the figure below (L - phase, N - zero, PE - ground).

Installation of lighting devices

In wooden buildings, several groups of lighting devices are usually used:

Built-in
Overhead
Street.

All lamps, sconce and other similar electrical appliances should be equipped with a special metal platform for fastening the product to the ceiling or wall. Such installation of electrical equipment is considered optimal from the point of view of fire safety.

For connecting lamps, a wiring of a yellow-green group is used

The inclusion of the lamps themselves into the main network is performed very simply: with the help of wires of the yellow-green group. The package of each lighting instrument includes contacts for such a connection.

Distribution shield

After entering the house, the main cable without any branches is suitable for a distribution shield. This device consists of several elements:

Installing Ze.

The PE bus that runs the grounding tire is connected to the grounding device.

This device is placed in the ground, next to the wall of the house. Visually it is a few steel rods, usually three or more. Diameter - 1.6 cm, length - about three meters. They are connected using the welded strip 4 * 40 mm. This device is fully accommodated under the ground, the strip 4 * 40 mm is supplied to the wall on the wall.

To connect the device with a bus, an unwitted wire is used, a cross section of which is greater than or equal to the cross section of the introductory cable.

Upon completion of all installation work, the resistance of the memory is measured. For a single-phase network, this indicator should be less than 8 ohms for three-phase - less than 4.

Features of closed wiring

Closed wiring is mounted almost similarly open. For both types, the same cables are suitable for labeling VG.

Hidden wiring is performed before the final walls of the walls. Wires are hiding into the metal pipe, the use of plastic is strictly prohibited. If you need to make a turn, the curved tube is taken. As an option - the usual, and one more is welded to it.

Before the final casing of walls and pipes, it is necessary to organize the output to the outside of all the necessary cables. In pre-defined places, holes for switches, sockets and junction boxes are prepared. A separate hole is required under the distribution shield.

Overhead switches and sockets are attached to the wiring

When drilling holes for branch boxes and sockets, you can use the crowns on the tree. The main requirement is accuracy, otherwise you can damage the cable.

A hole for the distribution shield depends on its type. If it is invoicing, the holes have an arbitrary shape, the edges are hidden under protective material. When installing an embedded shield, the hole in the trim must match its size and forms, taking into account the way the board will hide the edge.

After the walls of the walls and the preparation of the required holes, all boxes and outlets are installed. In most cases, an overhead device applies: drill all holes in a solid wood wall dangerous from the point of view of fire safety.

Following the rules of technology and safety techniques will allow you to independently install wiring in a wooden house. In such buildings, it is especially important to comply with the rules of fire safety.

Despite a number of advantages inherent in wooden houses, they possess a very serious disadvantage - the ability to quickly ignite and burning. Moreover, the ignition can begin not only because of the irregular operation of the furnace and other heating devices, but also because of the wrong installation of the wiring, neglect when laying the PUE rules.

For proper design, settlement and safe installation of electrical wiring, a technical document has been developed - "rules of electrical installations" (abbreviated PUE).

How can not be laid wiring

It is not necessary to excessively hope the quality of cable isolation, because many processes are processed in the designs of cable channels, which is impossible to foresee in advance:

temperature changes;
accumulation of dust;
moisture oscillations;
microd-deformation isolation.

With elevated loads on the network, the probability of a breakdown between extended parallel wires and, in the absence of their pesting from flammable bases, the fire is inevitable.

According to paragraph 7.1.38 of Pue, the hidden wiring in the log house should not be laid on wooden structures, styling of wires in corrugations, plastic boxes are prohibited.

From elevated temperatures when burning hidden wiring, even corrugated sleeves will not save them, since their walls do not have due thickness and are not intended to withstand the effects of high temperatures. The main useful feature inherent in the channels is considered to be their ability to withstand a short circuit without burning in a period of time required for the natural attenuation of the arc.

To the full, such property is inherent only by pipes and boxes made of steel and recommended for the device hidden wiring in the buildings of wood.

Correct installation of wiring

There are many ways to lay the hidden wiring in wooden houses, but only some can be attributed to the correct and relevant to all PUE requirements. Both in the process of design and installation, first of all, it is necessary to follow fire requirements.

Hidden wiring in a rounded log house is arranged in special channels from non-burning materials localizing possible fire inside itself. At the same time, the aesthetic qualities and ideas of the designer, the cost of materials and the production of work must be moved to a secondary plan.

The best material for laying wires hidden in the voids of wooden designs of ceilings and walls is considered steel boxes and metal pipes. When using non-combustible PVC materials (mounting boxes or corrugated rubber), each part it is necessary to provide installation of non-aggravated and non-conductive heat gaskets from:

concrete;
alebaster;
cement plaster.

The thickness of the gasket is calculated based on the required wiring characteristics.

The most reliable method to make the installation of wiring to the appropriate recommendations of the PUE is considered to be its gasket in steel or copper pipes and boxes. Copper pipes are easily bent without using any special fixtures and tools, which is important if necessary device of branched wiring.

The use of steel pipes is a bit difficult and requires high qualifications in workers, especially when replacing the wiring with small segments. The pointed edges of the boxes are capable of deforming the insulation of the wires, because their cutting must be carried out only by a specialized tool.

Selection of the route

The selection and subsequent mark of the wiring line should be strictly in accordance with the PUE requirements. The number of turns and bends must be made minimal, and at points in which, in view of the architectural features of the building, the track laying is difficult, the installation of dispensers is necessary.

When installing the boxes are forbidden to cover them under any decorative elements that make out open access to maintenance during operation, inspection or measurement.

Pipes for wiring are plugged in view of not disturbing the strength and carrier properties of the structural elements of the building. The cross section of the pipes and the thickness of their walls is selected based on the characteristics of the cable. The wire placed in the pipe must occupy less than 40% of the entire internal volume and stretch to all the stretch stretching. When laying in a pipe of several cables at once, their total volume should also be less than 40% of the inner cross section of the pipe.

Before laying the cable, it is necessary to calculate the insulation resistance in advance. This procedure is carried out in order to determine the compliance of the wire with the requirements of the TU, identifying possible deformations of isolation during transportation and storage, the implementation of preparatory work.

Wire selection

After developing the circuit and markup of each node, you should decide on the brand of wire used directly to laying. In wooden buildings, it is recommended to use the cable with the following labeling:

VVGNG (A) orVVGng-P (A);
VOGNGLS, VVGNG-PLS;

The copper all-in-chip wire (containing up to five lived) with the labeling of the VVGNG (A) or VVGN-P (A) is covered with double insulation. Internal insulation is made of PVC, each living, painted in different color, is isolated separately, which greatly facilitates work on the installation of sockets, switches, lighting devices. Outside, the cable is covered with insulation from flexible composite plastic, which allows it to be used in the temperature range from +50 to -50 ° C.

Characteristics of the wires of the brands of VVGG LS, Vggling LS fully correspond to the previous brand, the difference lies in the absence of excretion when heating harmful substances (chloro hydrogen).

The NYM cable is manufactured according to GOST 22483 and has three insulating layers. The veins of the wires first are isolated separately, then the bunch of lived is placed in the composite material, and after it is assembled into the sheath of non-combustible PVC.

Location of outlets and switches

At the points of the future installation of switches and sockets through special equipment, drill the nests, where metal boxes will later be mounted. Such boxes, as well as cutting, are mounted on the relevant technology, which provides for the production of a number of mandatory work, as a result of which the high-quality connection of the box with a pipe should be provided, the reliability of contacts between all the elements should be ensured.

Contact is also important for grounding. If the electrical wiring is secured, the circuit continuity is provided, then the ground is allowed only in the distribution panel.

Of several ways to attach boxes to the pipe with the greatest reliability, welding and soldering are different. These methods allow to ensure maximum reliability of contacts, full protection against corrosion and resistance to the application of mechanical loads.

If copper pipes are used to supply the wire to the outlet, then their open edges, bred in the box, must be collapsed. If steel pipes are installed, the connection to the box is carried out by means of nuts, for which the carving is cut into the tips. Nuts in order to ensure the maximum density of screwing are cleaned of corrosion traces and securely fixed.

Technological and distribution boxes for mounting outlets and switches must comply with the requirements of the IP -54 class, in accordance with which protection is guaranteed from penetration into the open box of dust and moisture.

Posting tests upon completion of the installation

Upon completion of works on the installation of pipes and boxes, it is necessary to measure grounding to determine the reliability of connecting each chain element.

At the end of the verification and elimination of all, even minor, inconsistencies, the requirements of the PUE, the cable is laid.

The cable must be seamless that a small amount of length is created in any out of the boxes, which can later be useful when connecting connections.

When the electrical network device in wooden buildings requires the use of cables with three or five cores with mandatory grounding. The completion of electrical wiring in operation without grounding is strictly prohibited.

Wood is considered an environmentally friendly material for the construction of residential buildings, so it is not surprising that the demand for beautiful and comfortable houses from a bar or a rounded log is not reduced. First of all, the residential building should be safe from the point of view of the electrical installation.

It is important to understand how to carry out an electrician in a wooden house, so as not to harm the health of residents and ensure the safety of the property. In the article, we displayed in detail all aspects of this issue.

The following materials present general requirements for the device for wiring, the method of mainstreaming the mains in the house, the rules for arranging the electrical panel and the ways of installing cables. All electrical work should be carried out in strict accordance with the fire standards that we pointed out in the article.

The main difference between wooden houses from reinforced concrete and brick structures - in a high degree of fire hazard. This means that elevated requirements are applied to the choice of electrical disks, cables and the conditions of their installation.

According to statistics, about 1/2 cases of fires or fires in wooden houses or in houses with wooden finishes occurs due to gross errors of electrical installations.

It is worth incorrectly installing a power outlet, it is not enough to thoroughly connect the wires in the dispenser box, ignore the grounding rules, as the fire may occur, and after it is a fire.

The undemanding owners of a wooden house entrust the work on the electromontation of neighbors, familiar or perform on their own, not knowing the thorough standards of Pue. The sad result of gullibility and non-professionalism - in the photo

Know the basic rules of electrical installation is necessary for two reasons: in order to be able to independently perform part of assembly or repair work and to control the actions of unscrupulous "specialists".

The following requirements should be remember:

The technical characteristics of cables and electrical equipment should maximally correspond to the power consumption of the instruments of each individual group.
Operation of sockets, switches, emergency shutdown devices must be made taking into account the load assigned to them.
Use cables, wires, terminal connections during their regular heating is prohibited.
It is necessary to completely exclude the transition of fire from the cable on the structures of wood or other flammable materials using non-governmental protection.

The wiring must be completely safe for the owners of the house, their families (especially small children) and domestic animals.

Strict requirements are nominated to the fore, while sometimes you have to sacrifice aesthetics. For example, the owners of a wooden cottage need to come to compete with outdoor sockets and enhanced protection of both hidden and open wiring (NPB 246-97)

Material from video reviews and instructions posted on the Internet is very contradictory, so it is not necessary to fully rely on the opinions of people in working overalls. Focus follows on excerpts from regulatory documentation - sections of Pue, SNIPs, guests.

Entry electrolyne

In Russia and some other countries (in contrast, for example, from Europe, where the wires are hidden in the soil), electricity gets to consumers through the overhead power lines - to the final support.

on self-supporting insulated wire (SIP);
underground;
on the cable (it is urgent rarely).

The first option is the most popular.

Together with the machine, the electricity metering devices are monitored. Special shields (SHUE) are designed for this. According to the rules, PHEU can be mounted, and inside the building, then the wiring scheme will change a bit.

From the central highway of the power supply to the support in a private area or straight to the house, the CIP (with a cross section of at least 16 mm), which is fixed with anchors or clamps. Height from land to stretched wire 2.75 m and more

To isolate the wire going along the wooden surface, the non-governmental boxes are used or. The transition through walls and floors is carried out in protective sleeves from metal, plastic analogs are not allowed.

Inside the house Sip do not roll. According to the standards, inside and over combustible structures, it is possible to put an extremely copper wires, therefore, aluminum analogs will also have to be excluded.

Rules for open electrical wiring

Methods of open wire laying should not contradict PUE requirements.

Therefore, for fastening cables to the wooden surface of the walls, partitions or ceiling, the following products can be applied:

ceramic or porcelain insulators;
floor plinths with built-in cable channel;
corrugated and hard PVC pipes;
pVC box;
metal boxes and pipes.

Specific product names indicate in the project documentation, and in relation to wooden structures, they must be accompanied by a fire safety certificate and be marked with NG, as not supporting combustion.

Installation of cable channels and other mounting elements must be thought out in advance, since the protruding parts may interfere with the placement of furniture or solving other interior issues

Wiring Wiring Methods

The main difference in hidden wiring is a restriction on the use of laying methods. According to PUE standards, it is strictly prohibited with a hidden wiring to use metal sleeves, plastic boxes and PVC corrugations. All products must necessarily have localization ability.

There are several reasons for this:

PVC products do not protect the wires from rodents;
even the slightest damage to the insulation during the installation work in the future, with an increase in the load, can trigger the brand of plastic and ignition;
metal worker is a spiral product that does not have localization characteristics, which means that even wood dust can easily penetrate inside the protection.

Fire and electrical safety rules say that only two types of products can be used for hidden wiring - a metal pipe and a box of a similar material specifically designed for these purposes.

From the inside, metal elements should be galvanized or painted so that in the process of operation they are not covered with corrosion.

For a durable compound, there is not enough commercial or similar method, therefore, soldering, electric welding, coupling and threaded connections are used.

The variant of hidden wiring in metal pipes - in the future the ceiling will be closed with a suspended structure. This solution is acceptable to laying the cable in wooden floors, inside the walls and partitions.

The use of metalworks, corrugations and PVHNG boxes are also permissible, but provided with a lining equipment from a material that cannot be combustible: concrete, alabastra, plaster.

The main stages of closed wiring stages:

Marking of the track. It is necessary to calculate the line of lines so that the number of turns and intersections is minimal.
Preparation of walls and overlaps. It includes hollowing the stroke, drill holes.
Laying of metal pipes. The size of the product is selected so that the cable has occupied no more than half of the internal space.
Installation of metal boxes for switches and sockets. Copper pipes are attached to beam boxes, steel - with nuts.
Installation of dispensers. Ideally, they must connect with the pipes with a welded method or soldering to provide 100% ground.
Electrogenation. All metal installation elements must be attached to the REC bus (all of the line without exception must be with a grounding conductor).
Cable broach. To place the wires inside metal pipes, use special long cables.
Installing outlets and switches. When cutting the cable, you need to make a small supply of wires in case of repair or replacement of equipment.

After the electrical installation of hidden wiring is completed, it is necessary to contact the electrolaboratory representatives. Many forget that the technical report on the state of posting and quality of installation is a mandatory document.

Most of the erected houses cannot boast of the environmentally friendly materials used in their structure. For interior decorations, chemistry and synthetics are increasingly used.

Despite the availability and prevalence of artificial materials, more and more owners prefer to build houses from a tree. Such buildings are attractive outside, cozy inside, and most importantly - eco-friendly!

Deciding to build a wooden house, the future owners will inevitably face difficulty: what are the rules for laying wiring in a wooden house?

As you know, wood is easily marked, fire hazardous material. For security purposes, the rules of electrical installations should be adhered to, especially if you are not a professional.

How not to do

Problems often arise due to violations of instructions on how to conduct wiring. All technologies and methods are actual for laying electricity in stone or concrete walls are not suitable for wooden buildings. Mounting unprotected cable on a bar or lining is categorically impossible!

The main highway is not sewn and do not hide under easily flammable elements of the interior. Home mainstream should not be overdress. Protective insulation should be protected from moisture, steam, dust and cable deformation.

The mouse can easily blame the wire, and the wiring damaged inside the walls will inevitably lead to a fire. From practice: Even a small focus of fire is extremely seriously served in handling.

Select the type of wiring

There are the following types of wiring in a wooden house:

Open. This option implies the laying of wires in special protective channels. It has several advantages. Quick access to wiring. Best cooling of laid wires. It is possible to lay a new line. This method is preferred more for smooth walls. Laying such, albeit decorative boxes, on the walls of the bar will be at least not appropriate.

Note! Protective cable channels are available not only in white color, but also in the color of the tree.

On insulators. The principle of installation is quite simple. Initially, ceramic insulators are installed. After installing the wiring itself. Excellent option if planned design under retro.

For retro wiring, you can choose special wires of the desired color and textures. To appreciate the rebirth style again, pay attention to the photo of retro wiring in a wooden house.

Hidden. The advantage of the open way is the possibility of mounting on the completion of finishing works. Hidden wiring is laid at the construction stage.

The wiring is placed in metal corrugated pipes and pipes.

All wiring is hidden. According to its characteristics, it is considered a more reliable option. Among the minuses is a high cost of work and more complex installation.

Two factors affect the choice of type of installation: the price of the question and design.

We make a wiring scheme

By drawing up a wiring scheme in a wooden house, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements of the GOST.

Key points of the circuit - electrical dispensers - counter, sockets, switches and junction boxes. During the circuit drawing up, all of the listed points are placed in quick access. This will simplify further exploitation and repair.

Switches are placed depending on the needs and preferences, there are no strict requirements for the placement of these points. The universal solution is one meter from the floor. Such accommodation is convenient for most people.

Outlets are placed in the maximum proximity to the electrical appliances. So minimizes the need for extension cords. Installation height - from 250 mm to 400 mm from the floor.

The number of outlets indoors are calculated based on the square square. For every 4 square meters - one outlet. In the hallway - 1 socket for every 10 squares. The kitchen set out the outlets more than in other rooms.

The lines of power grids have strictly vertically and horizontally. Allowed upper and lower distribution of networks. Regardless of the selected option, the distance from the floor or the ceiling will be 150 mm. All cables are driven and connected to junction boxes.

Entering power cable

Another important aspect is to enter a power cable. There are two input options.

Underground. A more solid and safe way. The cable is reliably protected from the effect of external influences. Minimum threat of mechanical damage. The depth of laying the power cable into the ground is 800 mm. The ground part labels a warning sign.

The cable passing under the house is reliably protected by a fastened metal sleeve. This method is carried out at the stage of starting construction work.

Air. Apply cable SIP. They are characterized by durable insulation, resistant to weather influences. Cable life - up to 30 years. According to the requirements, the power cable will not start in the house. From the distribution panel to the room, the VVGng cable lasted in the corrugation. At the injection site, the wall is installed in the wall (metallic) to enter the cable.

Choosing materials

Dealting with the question of which wiring to use, you need to consider a number of features of the future at home. Whether there will be enough standard 220V, or it will be necessary to 380V. Electric stove - if electric, it will take at least 8.8 kilowatt power.

To calculate the required wire section, calculated tables are used. In wooden houses, WEGNG, WEGNG-P wires, LS VOGng, Vggling LS and Cables manufactured by German NYM technology are used. These are copper cables with solid veins, and at least double isolation. External insulation refractory, flexible and at the same time durable. Temperature operating mode from -50 to +50 degrees.

The electrical counter is selected by the accuracy class, but not less than the second class. Options are available taking into account different billing. Standard one idar and economical two-tier tariff.

In most cases, the sockets are selected by design and type of wiring. Preferably switches and sockets with ceramic base, bronze and brass contacts.

Installation

Installation of wiring can be made with your own hands. The action plan is as follows:

First stage - Installation of wiring cables. The wires are cut into the number of future sockets and switches with a reserve of 200 mm for each point. Depending on the selected type of wiring, they are placed in cable channels, the internal system of wire laying systems are attached to ceramic insulators, fixed onto the brackets.

Second stage - installation of junction boxes.

Third stage-montage switches, sockets. The outer installation of switches and sockets is carried out through aluminum or asbestos gaskets. Wires are connected to color labeling.

The fourth stage is the installation of chandeliers and lighting plaffones. For the wooden house, chandeliers and plaffones with a metal base are ideal for.

Fifth stage-montage electrical panel. The electric meter is mounted in a plastic or metal shield. It is better to choose a shield with a slight margin of free space. Ground contour: Optimal reinforcement diameter for contour -16 mm per 3000 mm length. The cross-section of the wire marked from the grounding bus must correspond to the cross section of the input cable.

Installation of hidden wiring

A more complex process. The wiring previously hidden in metal sleeves or pipes is laid behind the walls or under the floor.

It is important to minimize the emergence of corrosion in the places of wiring. To avoid this, all structures are scorched by a stack.

Sharp edges of the cutting of pipes and sleeves protecting wiring smoothed. As an option - the use of plastic plugs. If the house does not plan to maintain a constant temperature regime, the pipes are mounted under the slope. This technique allows condensate to drain and evaporate.

Wiring circuit with optional marks can be pasted inside the switchboard - for memory.

Completed according to the rules of electrical wiring, will be a safe and reliable source of energy for many years!

Stock Foto Wiring in a wooden house

In the last article I told you about.

Dear readers, you already know that there are several. Therefore, in today's article, we will talk about open wiring in a wooden house.

I have already described the advantages and disadvantages of hidden and open electrical wiring in my articles. You can read here: and.

In this article, I will not force you to make the choice in one direction or another, but I just want to tell you in detail how to correctly perform the installation of open wiring in a wooden house.

So, proceed.

How to perform the installation of open wiring in a wooden house?

Before making an open electrical wiring in a wooden house, first of all, it is necessary to think about the places in advance where the electric goods will be installed. Electrical workers include: switches (), lamps, lighting shields, power shields, and other electrical equipment.

Second, it is necessary to decide with the method of laying open wiring in your home.

What ways of laying open electrical wiring exist?

Methods for laying open wiring in a wooden house

There are several ways to lay open wiring:

on porcelain rollers or insulators (electrical wiring in old apartments and houses, or wiring in retro style)
on braces
in PVC Corrugation
in PVC pipes
in metal pipes
in a metalworking
in PVC krakhov
in cable channels
on cable trays

I will give a few visual examples. That's what it looks like.

You can read more about each way of laying in my article.

Installation of open wiring in a wooden house

1. Marking of the route

Installation of open wiring must be started with markup. In addition to the markup of the installation places of the electric fir, it is necessary to mark the track of the gasket and wires.

Do not rush when applying markup, think about every step carefully.

Otherwise, you will have to redo the electrical installation.

2. Installing electric firing (sockets, switches, lamps)

At the second stage of the installation of open wiring is necessary.

Attention!!! The base for fastening sockets, switches, lamps, etc. must be metallic.

Cut the metal plate (base) and secure it to the place where we planned the setting of the socket, switch, lamp, and other things.

3. Laying of wires and cables

The third stage of the installation open includes the laying of wires and cables. Wire laying methods and cables we considered slightly higher.

I remind you that the passages of wires and cables through wooden structures (ceilings, floors, walls, partitions) should be carried out only through metal sleeves (pipes).

To install a metal sleeve in a wooden design, you need to make a hole with. In this hole insert the metal sleeve so that its edges on each side perform at a distance 1 (cm) from the wooden structure.

And after all the above, we proceed to laying wires and cable lines.

About how to choose a cross section of cable and wires, read the article as correct and.

Laying open wiring is performed by three-core or by five-housing wires, i.e. by or.

4. Connection

The fourth stage of the installation of open wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment. This is done using the tools (I gave the link to the article about the tools above the text).

5. Completion of work

After completion of the work, you need to refer to the specialists of the electrolaboratory, which will receive acceptance and test measurements and testing electrical wiring:

measurement of Uzo.
and etc.

After measuring and testing, the electrolaboratory specialists will provide you with protocols in which you will write conclusion about the status and serviceability of your newly mounted wiring.

P.S. On this article on the topic of open wiring in a wooden house, I complete. Ask me your questions in the comments or in the form of feedback. Subscribe to new articles.

And how do you have an installation of open wiring in a wooden house ???

101 comments for writing "Open wiring in a wooden house"

I have a centenary wooden house. And the wiring used to be on the rollers. Not otherwise, as centenary too. Dust and fat. Especially in the kitchen. Now we replaced the wiring. And all of it in PVC cases. Just a miracle: neatly, purely. It is convenient to care and clean the house is not scary now)))

THANK YOU. I am just the info on the issue of open and closed electrical wiring in a wooden house. Everything is available and even for me it is clear) the explanations in the pictures are very helpful

About the VVGNG-LS fully agree, many do not pay much attention to this, even PUNP is managed ...

I liked the wiring on the rollers under the antique, it looks beautiful, cool so)))

We just got the wiring at the dacha to change, she is completely ancient, well, now we will do everything according to the rules.

I have two questions:
1. Is it possible to pave openly on a wooden wall (with fixtures of brackets) Cable VVGng-Ls cable with a cross section from 1.5mm2 to 4mm2?
2. It is possible to pave the VVGNG-LS brand cable openly in the metalwork on the wooden walls and the ceilings in the attic (two species of the attic: 1) often visited; 2) Practically no. This is about rodents hinting).
Thanks in advance!
P.S. And in general, a huge respect for your articles. In the books while you will find the answer - forget the question ...

Sergey, answer your first question. Yes, you can. On the second issue, I wanted to write a separate article - wiring in the attic. There are special requirements for it.

Thanks for your work!
I will wait.

Hello, please tell me if any new way appears to connect to aluminum wires from the post to the house on the insulators? Previously, the wire (aluminum) around the feeder was twisted, then the nuts were used, then the nuts were banned, then the twist seems to be too. So how to connect correctly? In the first case, if you connect copper and the second case if aluminum. Pictures of course it would be nice to look ... these contacts are very important, there were cases and not rare when the threat of fire was in these contacts. Installation in the house is high-quality and competent, and because of bad contacts at the entrance, heating and sparking occurred. The introductory automaton did not work out not on heat not by uh protection.

Konstantin, Currently, to enter the supply voltage to the house, I recommend using a SIP. Where did you get that "nuts" canceled - this type of wire connection is allowed in PUE.

I accidentally met the farm with the theorist from Energonadzor and he was smaller about the archers, that from the wind, the wire suits the house shakes and from the temperature on the street copper expands and narrows and that the bot coil on the nut is breaking down and the contact is disrupted and the contact is disappearing ... I did not and just in case I first make a twist on the feed cable, and then wearing a nut on a twist. I have heard. What else connections appeared in the substitution of nuts, even saw them, black with a bolt for 10, when twisting, clamping and the incoming wire and the same to which contact is. I wanted to ask-someone worked with such clips? And the SIP loan to the house (self-supporting insulated wire) mine is so deciphered. And I need from the shield inside the house through the metallic tube it is picked up to the wires from the insulators on the house outside. I will be more suitable AVVG 2x10 (I think) and the section should be enough for a small house wooden ...

If I find the appropriate clamp, so that copper with the aluminum to connect correctly, of course, copper will start 2x6 or 2x10 too, the LS VNGN

On site a few words: Of course, thanks that you are and the site is very affordable and very necessary. Only one would like to be a wooden house the base of the sockets can be metalic (as you write) and it is absolutely correct, and in the photo on the site - as an example of mounting the sockets and switches of the Etude under the tree (if I'm not mistaken with the brand) , And the etude never did a metal base in no sockets in the switches. As if someone without reading the fully described the description of the wiring in the photo ... I never saw that the metal plate was specifically cut on the socket and the photo does not see it.

If the manufacturer of switches and sockets does not release them with a metal base, it must be performed independently. So we did on one of the objects (bath) when installing. In the photo it is not visible, because I believe that aesthetics should be present in the work and make a metal plate more dimensions of the rosette itself or the switch is impractical.

Walnut consists of three plates, so there is no direct copper contact with aluminum, their contact occurs through a steel plate. What we need. So with a calm conscience you can use nuts in your case.

Clamp about which you say is special clamps for sip wires. About them I will soon write a detailed article.

so if the wire feeds to the shield I will choose a SIP, can I connect to aluminum from the insulators to be connected by such clips? Or are they only sip to sip ??? There's just when the bolt twisted the contacts inside the clamp and sufficiently sharp ... as if all the insulators do not eat allums to them.

Good day!
Tell me, please, are there any special requirements for connecting electrical convectors (floor and wall-mounted) in a wooden house with a new (2009) open, copper, trothing wiring?

Tatiana, hello !!! First of all, it is necessary that the cable to the convector is the corresponding section. The cross section is selected according to its installed capacity (by passport). It is advisable to power it through the UZO or the diffaptat of the corresponding nominal value. In principle, all. If difficulties arise, write me the power of your convector - I will choose to you electrical equipment.

Good toast!
I want to ask the localization ability. With the wiring closed, this question pays special attention. When open it turns out that almost no one is paid! If with a hidden wiring you need to put the wiring from all sides by the non-flammable material, then with an open wiring, in my opinion, is at least from the sides of the adjoining to combustible surfaces! Isn't it logical?
Quote: "ATTENTION !!! The walls of the corrugations of PVC and plastic boxes (channels) during short circuit - burn out that when using them in a hidden wiring in a wooden house will lead to a fire. "
Question: Did when wiring in PVC corrugation or a plastic box, there are no such danger directly on wooden surfaces? Somehow strange, isn't it?

PUE, PTEEP, a slope is of course laws for electricians there are no anywhere.
Therefore, the most like it seems to be correct, laying the wiring in metal pipes. However, I believe, to fulfill it even by professionals without digging from the norms is almost impossible. I'm not talking about the cost. The output is still in the gasket of the outer wiring.
In my opinion, a large myth of eating the wiring of rodents and other animals (maybe the electricians themselves and invented?) And all short circuits occur against network overload, the unsatisfactory state of the network and other Bardaka.
With a properly developed project, the choice of permissible load and, accordingly, the cross section of the wires, protection, RCD and, respectively, high-quality installation, plus periodic tests of electrical wiring and equipment 100 years nothing will happen.

Regarding the myth about rodents: I witnessed such a 'sabotage'. Just replacing the wire (old) to a new in the void of the interior partition, the insulation was carefully removed from both cores. On both bare wires were visible traces of touching each other. The old wooden before the fire was One step. After this, all the transitions across the walls were urgently checked and the metal tubes are clogged. So it is not a myth.

And what silent the chef?

Good day.

I have in a wooden house on the second floor on the sides of the room there are unheated sinuses, for which you can crawl freely. Is it possible to pave a cable in the metalwork in them?

Igor, it is possible if the wiring will be laid open and there will be access to it. But if it is a attic, then special requirements are presented to the wiring in attics.

Igor, metal pipes are only no longer allowed. Ground them and go.

Constantine, metal pipes with hidden wiring - agree. But Igor did not clarify about the room and the method of laying wiring.

How to connect a switch with a power outlet. Speak the circuit.

Evgeny, at this time there is no such scheme.

And how it is right and at what height to mount the counter on the street on the wall of the house. And what hooks to put for eyeliner from the pillar?

Is an obligatory grounding organization in a wooden house when connected to a single-phase 220V-6KW?

Nikolay, be sure.

Good afternoon! Thanks for the answer. But if you figure it out in fact: I have room without increased danger, there are no water pipes or heating, neither iron cabinets, etc., but if I spend the grounding chain and earth, for example, microwave oven, then appears The ability to be under the blow while simultaneously touching the phase wire, by chance, and the grounded device.

Nikolai, in such situations a Uzo is set, which will turn off the power during current leakage

Hello everyone, I live in an old wooden house, the wiring is so old as the house, in the same room made a repair and, accordingly, changed the wiring to the new, copper on 2,5kv.mm. (as I thought), but it turned out (after a small reading on this site) by 1,7kv.m., thanks to the admin that explains such things, we are simple death, far from electricity, for example, when I bought a wire for wiring knew that I need a cross section of 2,5kv.mm. And I bought it, and he turned out to be PUNP, so now everything is changed in a new one? In contact of copper with aluminum, heating occurs when the microwave is turned on, for example, the microwave, now I want to spend a separate line on the light, sockets and instruments such as microwave, and how to contact with aluminum (the clermina set, but still some kind of nonsense) To the meter or before traffic, how to be, there is aluminum, again will be heated anything? Unclear! A clermin melted, and if you lay down to traffic jams, it will start melting in traffic jams ??? Thank you!

Oleg, you just need to make a high-quality copper connection with aluminum - that's all allowed. And leave the PUNP if it is the corresponding section, then operate if the cross section is understated, then load it a little less.

I did in the country the wiring in a wooden house on your own. I read the article. Thanks for valuable information. It turned out to be correctly done that the wiring was performed in an open method in PVC boxes. But as it turned out, a number of violations were allowed. In the passage locations through the wooden walls laid the wires in PVC corrugation, which is a serious violation. In addition, sockets and switches have a plastic base that are attached to a wooden wall. With such a wiring, he lived for five years during warm periods. First of all this year, under all sockets and switches, install a metal base, and in places of passage through wooden walls installed metal sleeves. And the electrical stroke, in which there are automata and should be metallic, and not plastic? Or can plastic but necessarily a metal base for a shield? The connection point of electricity to the Wl is not made in the house, but in a separate household, but from the Hozblock goes to the house a cable that lies on a metal cable.

Hello, there are a number of questions.
1. Let's say that I launch a new wiring of three-tier VG. It turns out that I must bring my line to each outlet from the counter (panel), since the re conductor can only be connected to the GZSH, but to connect it to the distribution. boxes can not?
2. Why the metal base under the electric power? Do you need to ground?

Stepan, good afternoon.

1. Connect re-conductors in junction boxes
2. Do you want to attach a socket right on a wooden surface? But what about fire safety - suddenly you will overload a power outlet, will it start to warm up and melt? It is not necessary to ground the base.

It is clear, why then in general the main grounding tire, if you can make just branches from one re conductor?

Hello Stepan.
Connect the re wire according to the rules necessary without breaking. T. K. RE Wire is one of the main ways to protect against elimination of email. It cannot be connected to the current "into the loop". It is necessary without a cut to clean the core of the insulation, screw 2-3 threads of the same wire, which lived, enhance and suck this place. All this is performed in the opposition.
The second way, use the "Vago" clamp, while the lived can be cut. Such a method allows the Energonadzor as an exception. But the main method is a soldering without a cut.

Good day!
Tell me, please, what should be the thickness of the metal plate installed under the socket and switches? For example, the usual food foil will suit or need something more serious? Thank you.

But this logic offered to PUE is really not clear. Those. Categorical prohibition using cable channel, PVC corrugation, metalworking, etc. With a closed method of installing wiring for combustible materials (which, after all, no matter how difficult it is in practice, it is clear and reasonable) and at the same time allow you to use the same cable channel, PVC corrugation, etc. With the way open. Is it not all possible: will the cable under the wooden cladding or on it, if it and in the other case directly contacts the tree? Is it just allowed only because it means that an open wiring is always in sight and if something happens to her, it will be visible. Well, somehow it is very weak - for such a regulatory document as PUE relying in such a responsible business, like fireproof, for such assumptions. Well, it is impossible to realize that all the premises in the house (which can be quite a lot) are located at the same time under the auditory control of the owner. Or what, he should constantly run around the house and watch, no matter how where the cable canal or the mouse did not bother the PVC corrugation, laid in the open way?! And if you need to leave home, but leaving any load (for Heating, for example)? !!! It is generally scary to think !!! In general, to put it mildly, a strange logic !!! Absolutely agree with Ilya (comment-Question from 05/18/2013 at 21:13)
What do you think about this, Dmitry? The fact that these are the rules and not you invented them - this is understandable. But if you still abstract from PUE. Is your "private opinion"?
And I would also like to know this:
Is there in principle on sale already ready-made sleeves for the passage of the walls? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas producing pipes and do it yourself. And it was not more correct to do the length of the pipe-sleeve such that on each side of the wall remained at about 10 mm. Then on the ends of cutting the thread and from two sides this sleeve to pull the thin nuts with the washers?

Regarding metal plates for installation between switches. What should be the thickness of this plate?

I have in a wooden house the sections of the wires passing through the walls simply turned around with a thick metal foil (in several layers, without strong tension). The installation is simplified, the wires themselves are not damaged, and there is no direct contact of the wire and wooden surfaces - as well as when using metal sleeves. The same foil (2-3 layers) put and under switches with sockets. The foil is the most common - food.

Of course I agree, the wiring in a wooden house is a special case (independently, it is open or hidden) and neglected fire safety here is not worth it. On the contrary, you need more thoroughly approach to this issue. But the rules are rules, and I reported to you their requirements. I can only assume and guess why the requirements are somewhat softened to open wiring. Most likely because open wiring is always available for inspection, and with a short circuit there will be a visually visible location (traces of soot, melting), the smell of gary will appear faster, rather than the CW will occur in the in-depth places inside the wooden partitions with hidden wiring.

All passing sleeves, bushings and adapters can be found in stores, though more often under the order. Well, or do it yourself - it will be much cheaper. Requirements for the thickness of the metal plate are similar to both metal pipes for wiring, i.e. When the feed cable is reduced to 2.5 square meters, the thickness is not normalized, and at 4 sq.m. mm - 2.8 (mm).

Hello!

I am grateful to everyone for akin and intelligent information.

Not being a specialist, I will try to assume:
- Such strict requirements for hidden wiring in wooden houses are explained by the fact that houses from logs or timber over time (dozens of years) are susceptible to rotting and, accordingly, vertical shrinkage and horizontal displacement (swinging huts).
I myself live in such a curve, is the maximum shift from the vertical (between the lower part of the wall and the upper part) is 180 mm with a wall height of 2.5 m.
It seems that the hidden wiring (without steel pipes) would not carry such a skew and arranged a fire.

Apparently, PUU is written on the basis of sorrowful experience, like traffic rules.
Thought: Well, it would be good to read comments with pictures) to PUE like existing expansion comments to traffic rules.

Good day!
Tell me, there are articles on the Internet where it is said that in a wooden house for each outlet, a separate cable from the electrical tailor is required. What do you think it is worth performing electrical wiring in a similar way.

Sayan, these requirements are acceptable not only in a wooden house, but also in an ordinary apartment. Here everything solves the owner. If you want the maximum reliability of power supply, while spent a decent amount on materials, then please. Personally, I am "for" such a way, but it all depends on the budget and the appropriateness of this decision in a particular case.

Good day to everyone!
Tell me if I am rightly mistaken with my new wiring in a wooden house.
The walls are trimmed with drywall (clearance from a wall of 5-10 cm. Campering boxes are in plaster plastic, twist, I think it can put clamps. Open wiring on the walls in the cable of channels, the Cable of the WG HP HP 2.5 mm.
I want to stretch the ceiling. On the ceiling will be heading in the corrugation, and the highway of the Fire-resistant plasterboard 12.5.
Introductory automaton 25A.UZo 40 A, 30 mA, and two 16-room automaton on the room.
What flaws allowed?
I go to this question very seriously, I do not want to put on.

Good day.

They promised to tell about wiring in the attic - it is of course interesting.
But for example, I am interested in what requirements are presented to the wiring in the basement (especially considering that there are wooden sheds in the basement for the storage of various tenants and wooden lari for potatoes) and how to put the wiring there, or rather, say so much to replace all the wiring, and make it Turning to your Saraika and make the light and the outlet there?

Yes, and at the same time, how do you feel about the laying method on the combustible designs or next to them in the metroplastic pipe (of course the PVC plastic)?, Some practiced.

1). Indo-steel pipe when laying on combustable structures (SC) can be used aluminum tube / in diameter 16mm, the wall thickness is about 1.5 mm? (It seems to be in PUE not specified the type of metal or specified?)

2). In the quality of the lining on the SK under the socket / switch / dispense box, you can use non-steel sheet, but an aluminum thickness of about 1mm?

3). If there is no ground, is it necessary to land a metal pipe (aluminum) in which the wire is going on the SK if it is known that no one will touches this pipe? , And is it possible to put a UZO / Diff-automatic if there is no land and turn off the Uzo / Diff. Automatic If there is a closure of the phase or zero of the wire on the metal pipe, but no one will touch for it. There will be no leak through a person? - Again, if the Uzo / Diff. Automatic is not connected to the ground due to its absence.

Metal worker is prohibited for laying in wooden houses without additional fire fighting measures, since it does not have a localization ability. Localization ability is the ability of the steel solid pipe to withstand the flash of a short circuit. Take the PUE carefully. It has all the answers to the questions. Or hire a competent specialist if you do not want to read.

Amend! I did not add clarification! Metal worker is prohibited for hidden gasket! From myself I will add my way: in the open, providing a distance from a sporable surface of at least 10 mm and using a diffex for a similar line. Metal worker need to ground and check the resistance.

And if not land, and this sleeve is used as a simple thermal and mechanically protecting screen? Or or land, what will be in the case of the use of wire / cables with double insulation?

If you do not ground, then you will lose an important component of a set of safety measures-on your conscience. These are the default metal sections of the Metal worker, and what is so complex in this task? Financially, it is lifting, just in time costs.

Hello! I want to replace input in my private house and put an introductory machine, whether I need to invite electrical electricians from El.Seti to make sure that I didn't violate anything in the wiring, or to invite them after all I do it so that they delivered me And led to the wire meter ??? Thank you!

Novel:
08/02/2015 at 09:43.
You need to notify an energy sales organization, whose representatives break the electric meter

Good day!

Please explain what you meant when recommended to put a metal plate for a socket or switch with an open wiring along the combed surfaces. Is this the requirement of PUE? But then, in the idea, the plate should simply be not a combustible - fiberglass or getinax or any other non-combustible material of the corresponding thickness. And whether it should perform 10 mm from the outlet - as if the laying on the combustible surface is the wire in combustion insulation. And this requirement relates to all external sockets or only to those who are not protected from the opposite side? And if they are in hermetic execution (IP54) - the plate is also needed? The requirement for the distance of the wire from the combustible surface of 10 mm is performed automatically?

Good day!!! Tell me how to choose how to choose a channel cable size for a certain number of outgoing lines ????

Good time day!
What do you think a piece of ski stick is suitable for the role of a metal pipe for passage through the wall? Or, probably, the diameter is not suitable ...

Are you for security, or for pro forma?

for security
and dofigue ski sticks ...

i decided to replace aluminum for copper, paved the entire duplicate scheme, and how to join the insulators, I do not know, does not show the indicator where the phase wire is such a matter

Hello, there have been a few questions on wiring in a wooden house:

1. The article says that you can make wiring on brackets. But Pue 2.1.37 says that unprotected wires must be conducted on the surfaces from the combustible materials or through something non-burning or with a 0mmm gap. The definition wire determination states that it is a wire that, in addition to insulation, has a metallic or other shell on top of electrical insulation to protect against mechanical damage. If you make wiring on the WDGN, then its overall outer insulation is considered to be a shell from the fur. Damage? Or the WGNN is not protected by definition, and then you can not do with the wiring brackets. I confused something, because Half articles on the Internet on this topic at all do not consider the option of open wiring on brackets.
2. How are the sleeves for the passage of the walls? Cable peaks? Need to come to arrive and buy. Or do not sell them and need to cut the pipes and supply plastic tips to prevent damage to the wire edge of the pipe? In this case, on what tags to look for these tips on the Internet? Or need them again, do independently?.
3. Sockets, switches, etc. need to be put on the met. Basis. PUE somehow regulate their thickness?
4. Whether the cable laying is allowed, installing switches and sockets on the outside walls of the house (from the inner side, of course).
5. Is it possible to use the same penetration and the same boxes for power cables and low-speed?
Thanks in advance!

Gregory:
05/05/2016 at 18:20
1. Turn the logic .. The cable (cable, and not the wire) must be isolated from a fuel surface or a layer of air, or a stucco. So, we need: or non-combustible insulators, which will move the cable at a distance of at least 10 mm, or layer of plaster, not less than 10 mm. What other brackets, in fact .. how will your cable fit your cable? To burn better?) Forget.
2. Buy in Lerua steel pipe 3 \\ 4. Disposable so that the pipe spoke in both sides above the surface by 2 cm. Book the pipe with an electrical diameter of 25 mm. It is placed inwards inside 3 \\ 4. Spile it down on cm more than metal pipe. Conferences Take a tape with a tape, so as not to fall out of Met.Truby. All, ready.
3. It regulates, IMHO. I launch a cable in a tray 0.7mm thick. There is a lot to burn. Take 0.7 mm and ground. Double control.
Did not understand - write the mail, I will send a photo.

Gregory.
4. The question is not clear. Topic theme.
5. The weakness is different. It is better not to risk and slightly throwing separately (against mice) in Metal worker PVC.

recently diluted the wiring on the sheds, also did it on the brackets because of different articles about the brackets was read, WEGNGP / WGN 2 * 1.5 2 * 2.5
Here I will soon put it in the corrugation consulted then with electricians / firefighters. The general conclusion is such that the brackets can be beloved for yourself, but if the firefighters will come to check, it will be silent and can turn off the house before elimination. Yes, and again your home here ..
PUE read already. But then I as a specialist, some subtleties require consultations.

regarding the pipe in Lerua - better in plumbing stores. Cheaper in Lerua tube imported, currently costs almost 800 rubles in two meters
In Santekhmagaz, 260 rubles are Russian for two meters.

The author of the site, please answer the next previously asked questions (and it is better to duplicate the answer in the article itself):
1. And the electrical stroke, in which there are automata, should also be metallic, and not plastic? Or can plastic but necessarily a metal base for a shield?
2. Is there in principle on sale already ready-made sleeves for the passage of the walls? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas producing pipes and do it yourself. And it was not more correct to do the length of the pipe-sleeve such that on each side of the wall remained at about 10 mm. Then on the ends of cutting the thread and from two sides this sleeve to pull the thin nuts with the washers?
And then, where to take bushings that are inserted into the pipe from two sides to not damage the cable? If you again do it yourself, then you do not advise what and how?
3. How to choose how to choose a channel cable for a certain number of exhaust lines? (You can do about it in general a separate article to do, because there are many combinations, at least for cables with a cross section of 1.5 and 2.5 mm and their different amounts in different, most popular combinations)

Please tell me, started changing the wiring in a wooden house. In the cable, the Channel 3x6 Flat cable was paved. Then he saw that this cable is round and apparently with the aggregate. The question arose: is it allowed to use a flat cable? Can replace on a round?

Do not change anything. The operational properties of them are the same. The aggregate just gives the round VNG round shape.

Specifically, there is no error on the issue, PUE does not regulate, flat or round cable. If this is really a WEGNGLS, then everything is in order. The plain is more convenient to close in the cable of the canal, has a round bend radius.
The second point, which device does this cable feed on and with which denominer is the machine to protect this line? On the outlet, this is too much cross-section. There is a bigger on the introductory cable for the main shield.

Thanks to everyone for the help.
The cable comes from the drawer with a counter to the distribution shield. Automatic has 32a.

Any owner of the house or apartment wants the wiring to be high quality and reliable in his dwelling. If experience and knowledge allows, the wiring is quite possible to make it yourself, both in a panel and wooden house.

At first glance, if we make the laying of electrical wiring in a wooden house according to the requirements of SNiP, PEU, there will be no problems. Nevertheless, the fireproof electrical wiring gasket in a wooden house The event is actually done, while you can choose what to use wiring.

Why is the WGN cable to lay on the wall in the corrugation or cable channel? After all, the WDGN is made in non-combustible insulation, and corrugated pipes and cable channels are made from conventional plastic. Or need to take metal corrugated and cable channels? Something I have not seen such anyone at the cottage ...

i want to enter the gentle, the photo shows that the cable is all in the cable channel on a wooden wall, without a cable and even sniffs with the wall, I have in the house in the corrugation on the brackets and the wall itself is sewn into the gypsum and now I do not see the difference of the one that My wiring is made and what is shown here as an outdoor. What should I do everything or leave?

Alexey, if the cable was spent on a wooden wall, and then the wall is sewn with plasterboard by profile, then it is a hidden wiring, not open.
SP 256.1325800.2016 "Electric wiring in cavities over disastrous suspended ceilings and inside the prefabricated partitions are considered hidden". If there is a fuel-type fuel, this is a combustible class G4, with all cable laying in metal pipes.
But in PUE 7 cable can be laid in the mock of plaster.
Safety compromise - you must first have been a strip of drywall 9.5mm. Machine, making a non-flammable gasket between the cable and a wooden surface, close the second one strip from above, enclosing the cable into a non-flammable shell, and then sew the wall on the profile of plasterboard.

Something is incomprehensible in a wooden house, it turns out the laying methods that can not be used with hidden wiring allowed when open? What is the meaning of this? According to began, thought that the authors had different articles.

Good day. Everywhere it is written that the passage through the wall should be made of a metal pipe, but if the cable is heated, everything is transmitted to the combed surface, especially if the pipe is thin. Why is Nelza apply a plastic non-flammable pipe? What is she inferior to? It is also interesting to such a question: can I do the break in the box if it is allowed?

SP 31-105-2002 Paragraph 13.5 I would very much like to hear your opinion on this system of regulatory documents in construction.

good afternoon! I have such a problem. I have a circuit breaker when it turns off the switch sprout and the counter makes a crack!

And what do you turn off such that sparks, the usual light bulb? In general, the switch cannot but sneak, it is its direct work, close contacts in the power circuit counter / fuse (automatic) / switch / lamp / counter.

Good afternoon.
Where is it indicated that the outlets and switches should be attached through non-aggravated (metal) peavering on a wooden surface?
What rules can I refer to prove to leadership?

Arkady Petrovich, a clear point of rules does not exist, where it would be said about the use of metal plates. The socket may have PVC base, but only you need to know exactly what the base is made of non-flammable material. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. You can not even imagine how much the sockets and corrugated pipes are in the market with the NG index, and in fact they are quite actively supporting the burning. That is why I recommend still installing metal plates, if there is no confidence as the plastic used products used. By the way, some series of sockets have a ready-made metal base, just the same for installation on wooden and other combustible surfaces, and in this case you do not need to make these same plates yourself.

SP 256.1325800.2016, paragraph 15.5 in buildings with construction structures made of combustible materials of groups G2 and (or) G3, allowed: an open laying of single cables and wires in a protective shell with copper cores with a cross section of no more than 6 square meters in PVC isolation performed according to GOST 31565 without lining; Hidden gasket under the coating of cables and wires in a protective sheath with copper cores with a cross section of no more than 6 sq. Mm in execution that does not extend the burning, according to GOST 31565 by fitting plaster.

Good day!
To the question of the previously predetermined - is it necessary to put something between the plastic distribution shield and the wooden wall (lining) of the frame house? Thank you!

Dima. This is something - a non-combustible spacer. Metal leaf, CML or DSP leaf. Asbestos is prohibited. Metal sheet between the wall and hand to attach to the main grounding bus. One hundred percent NG base is metal, stone. Plastic, which is not melted at all, not used in sockets and switches. And if you still add imagination, you can imagine a drop overheated by self-refining plastic sockets on a perfectly spreading burning carpet (with a magnificent poisonous smoke in addition).
The bosses will be enough certificate about NG plastic, so as not to plan, if that).
Oleg.
The pipe is also for the cable passing through it, during the wall deformation, it was damaged. Soft.
Spacking. It is necessary to have it so that it is in access and it can be seen not only to the author of the wiring. The cable is usually primarily heated / burns in places of bad connections. If the plaque is located in the tray \\ cable channel, in the beam of transit and terminal cables \\ wires, during an emergency it will entail damage to the entire beam. It is necessary to maintain the performance of the rest of the system by carrying out a dangerous area outside the main beam, in a decay. With an accident, the repair will be easier, and the damage is less severe.

He took a pair of universal boxes KOPOS LKM45 for the open set of a series of hidden installation, costs one dollar thing. Self-fighting PVC 850 ° C, inside the markup from three sides to a channel up to 40 × 20 mm, when installing directly to the G4, the manufacturer recommends thermal insulating grocery. They are not metallic at the copos, I don't know from what, but without asbestos. Box size 98 × 98 × 45 mm.
Next, on the pictures of the frame 80 × 80 mm and 90 × 90 mm.

Hello. I worry in the full sense of the word: I found that the builders in the steam room started at the lighting of the PVA cable. Urgently suspended the operation of the bathhouse. Bought a Wire RKGM 1x1.5. Now the question is: can these wires (RKGM) be laid in the steam room not mediocre on the lining between the ceiling and the wall and cover the plinth? Sales consultants say that it is possible because the wire is hot-supply up to 180 degrees. There are, of course, and another option - to bring the walls on the outside and start directly into the steam room to the lamps.

Vladimir, the second option is better.
And if you cover the plinth, at least in the corrugation, if it allows the place .... And do not forget about the UZO