Do-it-yourself corner cabinet: secrets, tips, diagrams, assembly steps. How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands? Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a corner cabinet Corner cabinet dimensions drawings

It is quite difficult to make a corner cabinet for the kitchen on your own, but the result obtained will meet all expectations. The creation of furniture for kitchens of non-standard dimensions depends on the layout of the room. Stores don't always offer corner cupboards that can save space in a small kitchen.

It is quite difficult to make a corner cabinet for the kitchen on your own, but the result will meet all expectations.

Sometimes you may only need a base cabinet, but the conditions of a small kitchen do not allow you to put it indoors. It will be cheaper to make it yourself than to spend money on ordering custom-sized furniture. Having thought over the design at the beginning, you should start developing a drawing indicating all dimensions. The purchase of the necessary materials is made on the basis of the calculations made.

On sale for creating pieces of furniture there is always chipboard and MDF. These types of materials are in high demand. Specialists who sell them can immediately process the edges of the workpieces after cutting. If you order the drilling of holes in advance, this will allow you to connect the parts using dowels.

You can make not only small floor cabinets, but also furniture sets. They are necessary for storing utensils, dishes, household kitchen appliances, food. Before creating such a project, a kitchen plan is drawn up, where the location of the stove, sink, pipes, hoods, etc. is noted. Wall cabinets allow you to disguise the gas meter and wiring. Inside them, shelves are provided where the dishes should be stored.

If the kitchen is already furnished, then the plan can help to increase its functionality. When compiling it, you need to make sure that the new furniture will fit between the already installed objects. It may be necessary to make kitchen boxes, the exact measurements of which are of great importance. Furniture doors should swing open and swing open, and drawers should slide out. When making measurements in the kitchen, it should be borne in mind that its corners may not be perfectly straight.

It is important that the corner cabinet can fit tightly between adjacent pieces of furniture. The curvature of the corners and walls leads to the fact that neighboring cabinets have walls spaced 1 cm or more from each other in one place, and in another - such a gap disappears. This leads to a lack of space for new furniture. If you make the corner structure yourself, you can always make it smaller.

How to make a corner kitchen cabinet (video)

Materials for DIY furniture creation

A kitchen equipped with furniture should have a uniform decor. If there are pieces of furniture in the kitchen, the appearance of which is outdated, you can replace their facades. This will require the purchase of new materials. For this purpose, the decoupage technique is also suitable. Furniture made from the same types of materials can be decorated in this style.

The choice of material can begin after determining the place where the cabinet for the kitchen will be located. It can be angular or wall-mounted, which is determined in advance. Measurements are made first, and then sawing is ordered.

You can make not only small floor cabinets, but also furniture sets

The material used for the manufacture of kitchen furniture must meet the following requirements:

resistance to high humidity and hot steam;
strength;
ease of care, etc.

Laminated chipboard, which has increased moisture resistance and density, is considered ideal. The size of the thickness of this material can be 16-18 mm. From above it is covered with a layer of artificial veneer. To make a cabinet for the kitchen, you can use the following types of materials:

MDF boards;
multiplex;
wood massif.

In order to save materials, it will be necessary to plan the manufacture of small pieces of furniture. For example, a narrow cupboard does not take up much space in the kitchen.

A wall cabinet for the kitchen, made of MDF boards, will withstand any adverse influences. The cost of this material is more expensive than chipboard, so the product will be of higher quality. The surface of MDF boards can be matte or glossy, painted or laminated.

The kitchen, furnished with multiplex furniture, is resistant to mechanical stress. This material is considered moisture resistant, it is made from thick veneer. A polyurethane varnish is used to cover the surface. If curved panels are made to order, then you can make a corner sideboard with a radius facade out of this material.

Solid wood is the most expensive material that requires special impregnation, as well as processing with a protective varnish. From such a canvas, you can make an elite sideboard for the kitchen by combining it with other types of materials. For example, it can be frames for facades.

DIY corner kitchen (video)

Preparing to Build the Model

The kitchen is a place for cooking, therefore, safety requirements must be observed in this room: the distance between cabinets and a sink, table or stove must be made acceptable. Corner cabinet design includes left and right sides, symmetrical to each other. The dimensions of the roof and bottom are usually exactly the same. Some models may have a heel counter.

The height of a kitchen cabinet is usually related to the height of the table, stove or sink. If the kitchen has a high ceiling, then you can make a pencil case with your own hands. The worktop, which is the cabinet lid, should protrude beyond the facade. The depth of the inner shelves is less than the lid and bottom, otherwise the product door will not close. Hanging cabinets sometimes reach the ceiling, especially in small kitchens.

Kitchen furnished with multiplex furniture is resistant to mechanical stress

In addition to the basic materials, auxiliary elements will be required:

fittings (door hinges);
lifting mechanism with a lock when the door is hinged;
corners for hanging wall cabinets;
shelf supports;
dowels, pins, euroscrews for screed elements;
pens, etc.

Of the tools you will need:

jigsaw;
iron;
drill;
screwdriver;
milling cutter;
stapler, etc.

After cutting the material, you can start assembling. It is carried out in the following sequence:

Drill holes in the sides for the shelf supports. Connect them with jumpers that are horizontal.
Secure the roof and bottom.
Attach the drawer runners to the body.
Mount the backdrop and reinforce the back bar.
Reinforce the false panel to the roof, sidewall and bottom.
Hang the doors, having previously reinforced the hinges.

The wardrobe, invented in the USA, began to be widely used as the main type of storage for household items and clothes. In our country, this type of furniture appeared only in the middle of the last century. This is surprising because many of us have lived in small apartments in which its benefits are evident.

Domestic craftsmen were in no hurry to make a wardrobe with their own hands. The reason is that the case version, apart from sliding doors instead of swing doors, has no other advantages over the wardrobe we are used to.

It is much easier to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. To make it, much less material is required, and even an inexperienced carpenter can make such a compartment on his own. With a smaller occupied area of the room, such a storage option will have a larger volume than a hull one.

Sliding wardrobe device: distinctive features

The sliding doors of the first wardrobes produced by our industry did not have rollers for movement. There was a longitudinal spike at the bottom, along which the door moved, which had a groove along the lower end.

This simple design was quite reliable. Its disadvantage was that it was necessary to apply great efforts to move the doors, because the cabinet itself and the doors were made of heavy material, such as chipboard at that time.

You can make a sliding wardrobe with your own hands built-in or in a conventional mobile version. The corner cabinet can also be made built-in or cabinet on your own.

A do-it-yourself corner wardrobe must be made with reference to a specific place.

In terms of it, it can have the shape of a triangle, a trapezoid, be L or U-shaped. From other types, a five-wall can be distinguished. This design has the shape of a pentagon with 3 straight and 2 obtuse corners.

This diversity is the versatility that the corner wardrobe has. If everything is clear with other forms, then the five-wall requires clarity. This version of the sliding wardrobe, occupying a slightly larger area, is much more spacious than, for example, a triangular analogue.

Stages of preparation for the manufacture of a five-wall

When making a wardrobe with your own hands, do not try to saw at home the sheet material from which the side walls and doors will be made. It is almost impossible to manually achieve the required dimensional accuracy, especially for a corner wardrobe. Having decided on the dimensions of its sides and doors, it is advisable to use the services of a workshop, where it is possible to provide the required cutting accuracy. It is also desirable to process the ends there, which will be visible from the outside. The elements located inside the cabinet can be made by yourself.

Before making a corner coupe with your own hands, check the installation site. This is especially important for the inline version. Any unevenness in the floor or ceiling where the doors will move must be repaired. Otherwise, there will be problems with the installation of guides for moving the doors.

Make sure that there are no electrical outlets and other elements that may affect the installation of the wardrobe with your own hands. Take into account the dimensions of the skirting boards and, if available, the moldings on the walls under the ceiling.

It is impractical to save on the sliding door system. More expensive Italian or German designs will pay off due to their reliability and long-term operation.

It makes no sense to show the specific design of the carriages. There are a lot of them, and each of them has its own characteristics during installation. First you need to figure out how to mount: the dimensions of the cabinet elements will depend on this. More reliable is the option of doors with an upper running carriage. At the bottom of the door there will be a roller moving along a guide.

Before you start making a wardrobe with your own hands, you should have an appropriate tool. In the manufacture of the built-in version, a perforator drill is required. You will need a power tool to screw in the screws. It is advisable to have a hand-held circular saw with a fence. A hand saw will also work.

You will need an angle clamp, a tape measure, a stapler, a soft and hard hammer, a drill with a set of drills, a hex wrench for screwing in confirmations. Confirmation drills are required to drill holes for confirmations to the specified depth. For simple drills, a stop can be used.

It is necessary to purchase dowels, shelf supports and screws.

Drilling holes in chipboard is the main operation when assembling furniture

Confirmates are used to fasten panels made of chipboard for furniture. Usually, confirmations with a size of D × L = 6.4 × 50 mm are used for furniture. This mount has d = 4.4 mm. The hole diameter for it should be in the range of 4.5-5 mm. With a larger diameter, the fastening will not be reliable, with a smaller diameter, the confirmation can destroy the fiberboard material.

For drilling holes, special drills are used, which are drilled to a depth of L and provide appropriate dimensions in the upper part of the confirmation (H and h). After countersink the surface of the plate under the cap. The confirmat is screwed in, without applying great effort, with a special hex wrench.

3 drilling options:

full thickness drilling;
drilling at the end;
drilling in 2 pieces at the same time.

Another, the most difficult option is drilling for dowels. A common condition for all types of drilling is the perpendicular position of the drill to the surface.

Let's consider the drilling option in 2 details. The parts are applied to each other and secured with an angle clamp or other device. After that, markup and drilling are performed. This option is the fastest and most accurate. To determine the mark by the thickness of the chipboard, it is advisable to make a template out of wood or aluminum corner. If the chipboard thickness is 16 mm, then the center of the hole in the template should be exactly in the middle.

If the parts are connected so that the holes are drilled separately, then the strength of the fastening depends on the accuracy of the marking. So you have to drill when connecting parts to dowels. For example, to install the cabinet lid on the dowels, holes are first made in it with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm with a stop that does not allow drilling through it. Holes from the edge of the cover are drilled taking into account the indentation of the sidewalls, if provided. With the same drill, holes are made in the sidewalls to a depth of 20 mm. It depends on the accuracy of the marking whether the dowels will fall into the holes. The dowels are put on the glue at the ends. When assembling, the masters do not recommend pouring glue into the holes on the lid, you may have to disassemble the cabinet.

It is especially easy to assemble a built-in wardrobe, which will have only 2 sides fixed perpendicular to the wall. These parts are securely attached to the ceiling, floor and wall using corners. The corner is fixed to the base using plastic dowels and self-tapping screws or screws. The sidewall is attached to the corners with self-tapping screws. Between these elements it is necessary to fix the door movement system.

With proper preparation, problems with the assembly of the cabinet should not arise.

The sliding wardrobe saves space by itself, and if it is made in the corner, then this is the most successful option. It does not attract too much attention to itself, leaves a lot of free space in the apartment, and how much you can put in it! It is quite possible to make a comfortable corner wardrobe with your own hands.

Design features

Unlike its usual counterparts, the corner wardrobe is always designed as a stationary one. It is created according to the dimensions of a specific corner and does not imply its movement.

First you need to decide which corner cabinet you need. Basic types of construction:

triangular;
trapezoidal;
L-shaped;
"Five-wall".

In addition, cabinets can be built-in and cabinet. A built-in wardrobe is essentially a small pantry. The shelves in it are mounted directly on the walls, and the space is fenced off with a door. The cabinet cabinet has a plinth, a top cover and a back wall, at least made of thin fiberboard sheets.

The most "economical" for space is a triangular cabinet: it has no side walls. Its depth will be determined only by the width of the walls, which you are ready to "give up". The rest of the cabinets are a little more difficult to manufacture and will have additional depth.

If you decide to make a corner wardrobe with your own hands, it makes sense to use the entire space from floor to ceiling to ensure maximum capacity.

It is very important to take into account the peculiarities of the corner itself. If there are irregularities on the floor or walls, they must be leveled, because they can affect the operation of the sliding door mechanism. In addition, experts recommend making all preliminary measurements only after leveling the walls and floor! Pay attention to the skirting board near the floor or under the ceiling - will it allow you to mount a cabinet?

Today, the manufacture of a radius cabinet is popular, the facade of which is made in the form of a semicircle or a wave. Such furniture fits harmoniously into a variety of interiors. Such a wardrobe is especially good for a large hallway and bedroom. For the kitchen, the corner version made of plasterboard is very popular - it is simple to perform and takes up very little space.

When you make drawings of the interior of such a cabinet, you need to take into account its purpose. If it is a closet for a hallway, it should have a bar for outerwear, shelves for shoes (possibly high for boots), shelves for hats and accessories, a place for umbrellas, gloves, etc. In the living room, a wardrobe can serve as a storage for books, documents, blankets and bedspreads, beautiful dishes. Accordingly, the main thing in it is the shelves. A small safe can also be envisaged. A wardrobe for a bedroom usually contains clothes, linen, bedding. A bar, and drawers, and shelves, and cells are appropriate in it.

Step-by-step instruction

After the diagrams and sketches of the cabinet are created and approved by your household, you can start making the cabinet. You will need the following materials and tools (sample list):

furniture board;
metal profile and roller mechanism for doors;
fiberboard sheets for the back wall (if it is supposed);
boxes, doors, rods, hooks;
fittings;
bezels (if required);
puncher;
screwdriver;
"Hexagon";
"Level" (to assess the evenness of the shelves);
glue, ruler, tape measure, pencil;
triangle;
screwdrivers, hammer;
fasteners (bolts, confirmations, shelf supports, etc.)

According to the experience of many men who have already created cabinets with their own hands, it is best to entrust the sawing of boards and their external edging to professionals: send the material to a workshop where there is a special tool for precise cutting. They can also make original milling on the facades. You can independently "cut" shelves and parts for drawers - ie. internal filling of the cabinet.

If your closet is built-in, first of all you need to mark the boundaries on the floor where the doors will be. The same lines need to be applied to the ceiling. Then shelves and rods are screwed to the walls using a punch and other tools. The final touch is the installation of the guides for the doors and the doors themselves.

For cabinets with rear panels and a bottom, the base / plinth or podium of the cabinet is first assembled and installed. Then a long and responsible process begins - drilling holes. You must first carefully mark all the attachment points. Then you can drill. If the hole is made on a plane, an 8mm drill is required. For end holes - 5 mm, and its depth should not exceed 60 mm.

Each do-it-yourself cabinet is unique, so it's impossible to make a universal description that would suit everyone. But there are some general principles for assembling this type of furniture.

First, the cabinet frame is assembled - that is, its vertical walls and partitions, which are fastened together by horizontals - a plinth, top cover, etc. Then shelves and rods are screwed to the side walls. Drawer carriages are attached. A metal sliding door mechanism is attached at the top and bottom. After that, the back wall is attached (usually it consists of several sheets of fiberboard, cut to fit the sections of the cabinet). Then - drawers and doors are installed.

Ideally, the cabinet should be assembled “lying down” - that is, spreading the details on the floor. This makes the assembly more likely to be accurate. But this is not always possible due to limited space. In addition, a tall cabinet that almost reaches the ceiling can be very difficult to lift. The main rule of "standing" assembly is to collect all the parts from the bottom up - the base, side walls and partitions, then - the shelves, etc.

A carefully thought-out sketch, a good layout, a little patience and precision - and your own corner cabinet will delight you for many years!

Modern furniture has a high cost, and various materials can be used for its manufacture, moreover, the models differ in size, shape, appearance and content. A perfect solution for a living room, bedroom or other room would be a corner wardrobe that does not take up much space, is distinguished by its high capacity and an interesting appearance. Creating a corner cabinet with your own hands is simple, if you carefully understand this process.

Immediately before the process of creating a structure, you should decide on the dimensions, materials and tools that will be used, as well as think over the purpose of the cabinet. Initially, a project is formed, for which drawings are created, according to which parts are prepared that are firmly connected to each other. A decision is made whether the corner cabinet will be triangular or L-shaped, trapezoidal or five-walled.

If you decide to assemble furniture yourself, you should prepare for this process and purchase the necessary materials and tools:

direct material for creating a cabinet, and the formation of a structure from plasterboard is considered relevant, which is distinguished by an affordable price, ease of use, environmental friendliness and durability;
profiles from which the frame will be formed;
suspensions;
screws and glue;
mirrors, if you plan to decorate a wardrobe with them;
fittings that ensure ease of use of the structure;
rollers and guides, if compartment doors are made;
lining material for the cabinet;
drill, screwdriver, grinder, sharp knife for cutting drywall, level and other small tools.

Working with drywall is considered so simple that no specific tools are usually required.

Tools

Drywall Sheets

Preparation of parts

A do-it-yourself drywall cabinet is made only after the preliminary creation of the circuit. Initially, you should decide on the dimensions of the structure, for which the dimensions of the corner where you plan to install the furniture are taken into account.

It is necessary to decide what parts the corner cabinet will consist of. Usually one large section is made for things that are located on the hangers. The other compartment is narrow and divided into several smaller compartments, which are separated by shelves. Often, in addition, an open pencil case is formed on either side. The standard sizes of such elements are:

the height of the cabinet itself can vary from 180 to 220 cm;
the width of two different elements of the corner cabinet can be from 45 to 80 cm;
it is advisable to leave a distance between the shelves within the range of 30 to 35 cm;
boxes and shelves are usually 40 to 45 cm wide;
it is advisable to make boxes with a depth of 25 to 30 cm.

It is considered optimal that there are two large sections on top, called mezzanines, which are used to store large and rarely used products and things, and a narrow compartment for shoes is organized at the bottom.

After determining the dimensions and compartments of the structure, you need to perform the following steps yourself:

determine the angle where the cabinet will be located;
depending on its parameters, determine the exact dimensions of the cabinet;
create a sketch that allows you to calculate the base, cover and plinth;
divide the entire internal space of the cabinet into separate sections, for which vertical and horizontal partitions are used;
calculate the doors of the structure;
calculate the required number of ends covered with end tape.

Based on the resulting diagram, you can prepare the main parts of the cabinet. For this, in accordance with the sketches, the main elements of the frame are made. Metal profiles are cut with a grinder, and the cuts are cleaned. Further, on the basis of pre-made drawings, parts of drywall are formed, and it is advisable to use a thin and sharp knife to cut this material. All elements must be of the same thickness.

Materials (edit)

Site selection and markup

It is advisable to decide on the place of installation of the cabinet in advance, since the structure itself is made for the available parameters of this angle. It is usually installed in the living room, but it can be intended for a bedroom or a children's room. The content and dimensions depend on the number of items that will be stored in the furniture.

After determining the installation location, marking begins, which allows you to determine where the main elements of the cabinet will be located. Since the product will be created from drywall, all the elements of the frame will have to be attached to the wall, therefore the fastening areas are outlined. You will have to navigate along them during fastening and creating a frame.

Surface preparation and marking

Frame installation

How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands using drywall? To do this, you first need to deal with the installation and fastening of the frame. The whole process is divided into stages:

if it is planned to have lamps in the cabinet, then the areas where they will be fixed are marked, after which electrical wiring is connected to this place;
shock-absorbing rubber insulation is glued to the guide profile, and it is important to place it from the part that will be laid further on the base of the furniture;
all guides are fixed along the lines of the previously applied markings, and dowel nails are used to secure them;
then straight suspensions are fixed on the wall, and for this you need to constantly focus on the markup;
fasteners for fixing the suspensions depends on what material was used to create the base, since if it is concrete or brick, then it is advisable to use a dowel with nails, and if the base is wooden, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete, then strong screws or nails are suitable, and it is also allowed use special dowels equipped with spacers and notches;
vertical racks are inserted into the fixed guides, after which they are fixed with hangers, and for this it is advisable to use short self-tapping screws equipped with a press washer;
strong and reliable stiffeners are installed between the rack profiles, and the more these elements are used, the more stable the structure will be, and there should be especially many of them in areas where heavy objects are planned to be stored.

It is allowed to use not only metal profiles, but also wooden slats to create a frame, but this solution is used extremely rarely, since wood can absorb moisture or dry out, therefore the dimensions of the cabinet will change, which will lead to distortions or increased fragility.

Pasting profiles with damper tape

The metal profile is easy to cut

Finished frame

Frame sheathing

A corner cabinet made of plasterboard is quite simple to create, since after the formation of a high-quality, durable and stable frame, you can start covering it with plasterboard elements. For this, the following steps are performed:

workpieces are made from drywall, for which, in accordance with the drawings, parts are cut, and it is recommended to use a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw for this purpose;
it is advisable to choose a durable wall drywall to create a cabinet, the thickness of which will be at least 1.25 cm;
all edges are processed with an edge plane;
ready-made drywall elements are inserted into the corresponding sections of the frame, after which they are screwed in with special self-tapping screws for metal;
the sheets are finally fixed, for which it is important to calculate the number of screws so that there is a distance of 20 cm between them;
all screw caps are recessed by 1 mm;
furniture corners are installed in the areas where the shelves will be located;
rods and lamps are mounted;
according to the available dimensions, the creation of doors begins, which can be ordered ready-made.

After the completed work, a full-fledged wardrobe will be received, but in order for it to have an attractive appearance, you should take care of the use of finishing materials.

Drywall markings

Drywall cut

Fastening drywall panels

Driving screws with a screwdriver

Finished wall

Finishing

Finishing involves the following stages:

all surfaces outside and inside are covered with a high-quality primer;
joints are filled with gypsum plaster;
then the serpyanka is glued;
painting corners are mounted on the corners;
putty is applied, which is sanded after hardening;
it is advisable to make two layers of putty;
then the primer is applied again;
after that, the final finishing materials are applied, which can be represented by decorative panels, tiles or other materials.

It is advisable to use a mirror during finishing to increase the comfort of using the structure.

Perforated corner for corner processing

Cabinet finishing

Drawings and diagrams

The most important thing during the creation of a corner cabinet is the construction of a correct and accurate diagram and drawings. If there are any errors in them, then it will not work to build a full-fledged, durable and stable structure.

Drawings and diagrams can be obtained in different ways:

independent creation, and the process can be performed manually or using special programs for a computer;
an order from specialists, which will require significant financial investments;
search for ready-made drawings, but you should only use them if you are sure that they are correct and accurate.

Corner cabinets are considered to be the perfect solution for different rooms. They can be created from different materials, but the most optimal is the use of drywall, with which the frame is sheathed from metal profiles. Such a cabinet does not require significant investment, and is also easy to create. During independent work, their own wishes and the available dimensions of the selected corner are taken into account, so the design will be ideal for the installation site.

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is easier than a table or chair, but somewhat more difficult than a stool or nightstand. If you have a good idea of how these pieces of furniture are made, then you can take on the closet. There are 3 options for organizing work:

A simple, unassuming wardrobe in the utility rooms. It is preferable to start with it for beginners: there will be benefits, flaws are out of sight, and the acquired skills will be useful in the future;
A cabinet cabinet "like everyone else's" in living rooms, but with significantly, 2-2.5 times less money costs. At the cost of your own labor and skill, of course;
At a cost comparable to or even less than for an ordinary purchased wardrobe, it is possible to make a wardrobe very solid and durable, which are sold as extra or luxury.

Sliding wardrobes are especially popular now: they save a lot of living space, and fittings and door sliding mechanisms are affordable for them. It is more difficult to make a wardrobe with your own hands than a swing wardrobe, but it is still possible for a novice furniture maker. And, as will be discussed below, it is possible to save a lot on fairly expensive door profiles.

The built-in wardrobe gives even greater material savings, see fig. But it is definitely worth taking on it only if the apartment has a ready-made niche or a solid floor is laid on an equalizer. Otherwise, floor leveling work will more than eat up all the savings. The ceiling may also need to be trimmed, but not so accurately and the work is easier.

In any home there is also a restless corner in which only garbage is collected. A corner cabinet will usefully fill it. Structurally, it is more complicated than usual, and the savings in making it yourself will be less. But this will pay off with convenience, especially in small-sized apartments: typical "corners" in them do not add much ergonomics, and non-standard custom-made will cost a lot.

However, the main purpose of this article is not how to snatch here and bite there. There are plenty of manuals for the manufacture and self-assembly of cabinets in RuNet. Up to instructions like: "We take the drill by hand ...". If not with teeth, then it would be necessary to clarify: which one - right or left? Because a person's hands are functionally different. However, the existing publications are written quite conscientiously - each about a separate specific product. There are also very general reviews. But something like a summary of how to design and make a cabinet for your own conditions and requests is not visible. A wardrobe is not a table or an armchair, it requires a lot of space and stands on it for a long time or forever. And besides, it is an aesthetically defining piece of the interior.

In this publication we will deal with how to develop and assemble a wardrobe on our own specifically for our home; it is this approach that will give the greatest savings in both money and labor. Where the cabinet should stand, how much space is there and what will be in it, you decide for yourself, here precise recommendations from the outside are impossible. For the rest, so to speak, home cabinetry is carried out in stages as follows:

Determining the size of the cabinet;
The choice of the type of construction based on your requests and available capabilities;
The choice of the type of doors - swing, sliding (wardrobe) or folding;
Selection of material and assembly technology suitable for it;
Selection of filling installation methods (shelves, drawers, hanger bars);
Cabinet design;
Preparing a place for a cabinet, if it is built-in;
Preparation of body parts;
Assembly of the case;
Manufacturing and hanging of doors;
Manufacturing (purchase) of filling modules;
Filling the cabinet.

Dimensions and layout

The general layout of a conventional cabinet cabinet is shown in Fig. on right. Some of the modules, based on the available floor area and ceiling height, may not exist, or it will be, say, not 2, but single-leaf. Nevertheless, the dimensions of the cabinet within certain limits and the principles of its layout must be observed:

Transverse depth (width) - 450-650 mm. Less - the product will turn out to be unstable; more - uncomfortable.
The height of the wardrobe (pay compartment, right wardrobe in the figure) is 1550-1850 mm.
The height of the chest of drawers is 700-750 mm.
The width of the drawers and shelves is 400-450 mm.
The depth of the boxes is 250-300 mm.
The distance between the shelves is 300-350 mm.
Vertical layout: drawers below, shelves above them, and niches above all.

The dimensions of the drawers and shelves should be kept within the specified limits. With smaller cabinet capacity, it drops sharply with the same overall dimensions, which complicates it and increases its cost. With large ones with boxes, it is difficult to wield and keep order in them.

Do you need mezzanines?

Mezzanines add a lot to the complexity and cost of the cabinet. But to assemble a cabinet without a mezzanine, you need at least 7 cm between its roof and ceiling, if you use a special tool, and the usual one - from 12 cm. and 10-12 mm. Now let's estimate: a small, 1.6x0.6 m in plan, wardrobe. Take 7 cm to the ceiling, this will come out a little over 67 cubic meters. dm. That is, the capacity of a pair of bedside tables or a children's playhouse, or shoe cabinets, which are also needed in the house. In general, it is better not to be lazy and make a wardrobe with mezzanines.

Design

The general layout of the cabinet allows many options for technical implementation; just look at the trade catalogs. In living rooms, as you know, wardrobes are most often placed, pos. 1 in fig. A classic wardrobe with a mirror, pos. 2. In the nursery, office or bachelor's room - pencil case, pos. 3. If the apartment has a shallow niche, this is the place for the built-in wardrobe, pos. 4. It is especially useful for household items in public areas, pos. 5: there is always a tech, and the riser is changed, or at least the inspection hatch in it is not opened every year or even every decade.

About walk-through cabinets

About corner cabinets, pos. 6 and 7, we will talk in more detail below, but for now we will linger on the walk-through cabinets, pos. 8. Actually, a real walk-through closet is something like a walk-through wardrobe: doors are in front from behind, and the contents are placed on the sides of the aisle. Once upon a time, for the sake of saving space, they were made in hallways, but with the advent of reliable and affordable sliding doors, they began to consider a wardrobe-wall with a mezzanine above the door as a walk-through.

A walk-through cabinet will not only be appropriate in a long narrow room. It can be a key element in the overall layout of your home. Let's say you are sketching a sketch of a future new building. And remember that the size of the house in the plan depends not only on construction costs, but also on real estate tax and utility payments in the future. Accordingly, the premises for purely personal use - the kitchen, the bedroom, the office - are planned according to the residual principle, as a result of which they go out in tunnels that are extremely small for living rooms width. This is where the walk-through closet will help out: it will give the room (s) the necessary comfort, and even, perhaps, it will be possible to fence off the dressing room, closet or a small workshop; a wardrobe deeper than 65 cm is not needed.

About corner cabinets

Cabinet, close-fitting outer corner, pos. 1 in the figure, is no different: these are 2 wall cabinets with a stand at the corner. The rack is designed and subsequently assembled last. Structurally, it does not connect with the side sections-wings, as well as the wings with each other.

It's different with the cabinets in the inner corner. If they are not single, then the corner section is designed and then assembled in the first place, and already in it the wings are adapted, and the last - the side post, if any.

Triangular (not necessarily isosceles) cabinet in the corner, pos. 2, this is most often a simple household locker in that very restless corner, in the bathroom or on the balcony. We will get acquainted with a couple of constructions of this kind later.

In living rooms, L-shaped corner cabinets are most often placed, pos. 3, or five-walled cabinets, pos. 4. The L-shaped cabinet is slightly more complicated than usual: there is no corner section as such, and the wings are also connected by an L-shaped rack in section, pos. 4a. However, the L-cabinet is not very convenient and aesthetic, and the ratio of its capacity to the occupied area is even less than that of a straight wall cabinet.

The five-walled wardrobe is the most spacious of all, especially since very bulky things can be stored in the corner section, practically without taking away excess usable space. It is durable and stable, because its frame is a rigid spatial structure, pos. 4a. The wings of a corner cabinet, without compromising its stability, can be of different depths, therefore, both along the front and in area, it can take up one and a half times less space than a wall cabinet of the same capacity, pos. 4b. And if a five-walled wardrobe in the bedroom, then in one corner only 2 pencil cases are placed with everything necessary in this case, pos. 4c.

However, a five-walled cabinet, firstly, is more laborious and requires more precise cutting of parts, which is especially important when making them independently. Secondly, when designing it (see below), you need to take into account some nuances regarding the doors of the central section.

Take a closer look at how the doors of any cabinet open on hidden hinges. When the door is half open, its edge in the hinge extends a few mm beyond the clearance, and the plane of the fully open door again becomes flush with the side wall of the cabinet. If, instead of empty space, there is a wing facade next to it, then the door may rest against it and not open completely. To avoid this, the angle between the facades of the central section and the wing adjacent to the hinges of its door should be at least 135 degrees. Therefore, if you are designing a five-wall with wings of unequal depth, the corner door should open towards the deeper wing. And if the depth of the wings is the same, or the angle with 2 doors, then the corner section should be equal.

Finally, occasionally trapezoidal cabinets are made, pos. 5. They are complex, material and labor-intensive, and their capacity relative to the occupied area is record low. Trapezium cabinets are made only when the passage behind the cabinet turns out to be unacceptably narrow and needs to be somehow expanded.

Note: special case - radius cabinets, see fig. on right. They are not only original and elegant in a modern way, but also durable, roomy and less obstructing the aisles. But their design is not for an amateur and not even for every mid-level salon.

Plinth or legs?

How to put the cabinet - directly on the floor, on the plinth or on the heels (legs)? On the floor is the easiest, but it must be perfectly flat and strong, for example, laid on a flowing leveler with a laminate on a backing without lags. The plinth is quite laborious and requires extra boards, but it gives the cabinet strength. The bottom of the cabinet on the heels, so that it does not sag, must be thick and durable, which can cost more than the material on the base. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cupboard on thrust bearings only in the kitchen, grocery pantry, etc. premises where, as they used to say in the old days, mundane backbones - cockroaches, mice - can start. It is very difficult to survive them from under the base.

What are the doors

If the room where the wardrobe will go is spacious enough, then the best option for its doors is swing doors. They are simpler, cheaper and more reliable than sliding ones. There is only one subtlety: take hidden hinges not mortise, as in factory cabinets, but overhead, see fig. In production, they are less technological and cost-effective, because a backing block is required, but it is much stronger than mortise and it is not necessary to select a hole in the side walls with a cutter.

However, not everyone lives in mansions, therefore sliding doors for a closet are most common. In general, they open less often than interroom ones, they do not slam drafts, and only a bump with a little bump go through the closet into the wall, which does not care what kind of doors there are or whether they exist at all. Therefore, cabinet doors can be made lighter, and the presence of a threshold does not affect the convenience of using the cabinet.

There are dozens of manufacturers of sliding door mechanisms, each produces several systems and is trying to bring something new to the product so that it can be more elbowed in the market. In the assembly instructions they write what exactly this product is good for, and, as a rule, they do not lie. But comments, they say, our product is more suitable there and that, but if there, then it is better to contact the competitors, of course, do not wait. Nevertheless, simple general rules for choosing a cabinet door mechanism can be drawn up, especially since there are no cardinal differences in quality between them.

First of all, for a wardrobe door, you do not need to take expensive mechanisms with a free bottom edge of the door sliding in a shoe or along a ridge, see fig. These suspension systems are designed for heavy interior doors and require ceiling alignment. In addition, the bottom of the door leaf in the first case is abraded; in the second, it is prone to breakdowns. Protective pads / gutters are sold as an option and the prices are, to put it mildly, strange. Other mechanisms are suitable for the cabinet, and here the choice depends on the door.

Just doors

If the doors are solid wood or made of laminated chipboard, and the cabinet is on a plinth, then the sliding mechanism is more suitable frameless, because it is cheaper and easier to install doors with it. The cheapest of these is with an upper suspension (upper travel, upper rail) pos. And in fig. Until recently, they were considered unreliable: from the push, the doors on the upper passage fell inward. But literally over the past 2-3 years, the upper course has been seriously improved and the most flimsy of the current ones can withstand a blow on the facade from 45 kgf. This is stronger than the plop of a street bully or the push of the butt of an overweight, tipsy guest.

For the same doors in a built-in closet, a system with a lower support (lower rail), pos. B. Here, first, it is better to take a system with separate guides (tracks), pos. B1. Paired tracks require assembly precision that is difficult to achieve at home and are designed for boards of strictly defined thickness. This makes it difficult to design the cabinet and the overspending on material may be greater than the savings due to paired tracks.

Further, frameless doors at 4 points of power (tight) contact with the tracks are prone to jamming, therefore, the carriages of the upper rollers (rollers) must be installed quadruple self-aligning, pos. B2. But not any for any door.

Threaded fasteners in wood sits tighter when wrapped around the fibers rather than across them. In laminated chipboard, on the contrary, self-tapping screws / confirmations are more securely wrapped in a layer, and not in an end. Therefore, wooden doors are hung on end rollers, as in pos. B2. If the doors are made of laminated chipboard, then the rollers need to be taken on pins, i.e. L- or U-shaped brackets, like the lower rollers in pos. A.

Note: for a door on end rollers, a decorative strip covering the rollers and the top track is desirable. But in the hallway, it can be superfluous - the slot at the top will provide ventilation for the closet with damp outerwear.

And, finally, the lower rollers should be, firstly, adjustable in height, taking into account not only the unevenness of the floor, but also the drying out of the door leaf. Secondly, the lower rollers, especially if the cabinet goes into the hallway, are needed with a 2-coordinate support-stop surface, i.e. with a flange, like a railway wheel, pos. B3, and steel rubberized; in extreme cases - propylene. Why? Flanged rollers push the dirt out of the track groove by themselves.

Glass-mirror

For a glass / mirror door, the only option well tested in practice is a frame door with a bottom rail made of special profiles, pos. B. How to collect it is described in detail in the company instructions and runet, but something else needs to be paid attention to.

First, make sure that the profile you like is among the recommended ones in the mechanics specification. As a rule, there are no problems here, the production of fittings for glass doors is well developed.

Second, the installation of the mirror / glass, pos. IN 1. It is necessary to use only and only glass of the recommended thickness with complete seals. It enters them rather tightly, but if it got up easily, then it will not be difficult for it to fall out later. To facilitate the framing of the glass (the profiles are put on it) you need:

Work on a flat, smooth surface covered with a dense, clean cloth without scars / seams or with newspaper in several layers. Pros frame mirrors on foam backboards.
Mirror / glass to order with rounding (licking) of the edges. You can also "lick" the ribs with the most abundantly moistened emery bar, having previously drawn a wet cloth along the edge of the glass. You do not need to rub until a visible chamfer appears; it is enough to "shirk" 2-3 times with light pressure so that the rib does not bite the seal.
Before installing the profile, run along the edges of the glass with a clean cloth slightly moistened with any gel detergent for dishes. Soapy solution is slightly worse, dries quickly.
It is necessary to set (push) the profile onto the glass, evenly tapping it along the length with a rubber mallet. It is unacceptable to shove, as they say, using the navel resting against it.

Third, installation and fine-tuning of the upper rollers ("Asymmetric roller" in the figure). That the asymmetry should be on the canvas in one direction, and for the outer and inner flaps in different directions, it is clear. But, pay attention to the inset at the top right: the same screw holds both the frame sections and the roller. Moreover, the screw is self-tapping, it is screwed in once. Assembling the frame "to empty" without a mirror, and its bulkhead after fitting is a gross mistake of amateurs. So:

The upper assembly screws are initially under-turned by 3-4 mm.
The installation whiskers of the rollers are inserted under the screw heads and the screws are tightened tightly, but not tightly: if the roller is pulled outward with force, it should "crawl" out from under the screw.
They put the door, check the movement, adjust the lower rollers.
In place, the screws of the upper rollers reach failure.

Glass tree

See what is there on the left in fig. And on the right - how it was done. Not bad, right? This door has not been tested on a suspension, but judging by what it has endured in more than 27 years of operation, it will withstand. With acrylic glass, which was then a rare expensive curiosity, it will hold up for sure. The depth of the groove for the glass is from 3 thicknesses.

The secret, firstly, is in the aquarium silicone. It is much more expensive than construction, but 20 ml was enough for a couple of doors. But its strength is simply monstrous. Take a look at at least a 200-liter aquarium and imagine how much pressure there is from the inside. And the glasses are glued just to the end. Secondly, here the long edges of the glass are reliably covered. It is not so easy to break glass with a direct blow.

Note: before installing the cabinet doors, of course, you need to check and set the rectangularity of the opening. It is inconvenient to use a tape measure, because this is not a basement cast-off open from all sides. A pair of rails with pointed ends, fastened with elastic bands, will help out, see fig. At the first measurement, they make a risk with a pencil (pos. 1), and the divergence of its halves on the second will accurately show the difference in diagonals (pos. 2).

Finally, at pos. G - wardrobe with book doors. The bottom line is that the area withdrawn for opening the doors in terms of the totality of ergonomic indicators depends on the removal of the open door nonlinearly. Therefore, a fold-out door will take up only 1/4 of the floor area in comparison with a swing door of the same width, and its hardware is cheaper than for a sliding door, and never sticks.

Material

What to make a wardrobe of? There are 3 options here: laminated chipboard, solid wood (finished furniture boards) and measured sawn timber, i.e. just boards. Let's compare them in terms of cost, complexity and work, strength, durability and aesthetics. We will take into account that the total strength of wood is less than that of laminated chipboard, therefore, we take the thickness of wooden parts not 16, but from 24 mm, and non-planed blanks - from 30 mm; 3 mm from each face will be spent on planing.

Chipboard

About edges

Cabinet parts made of chipboard must be trimmed (edged). Since they do not crawl along their edges with elbows, the cabinets are cut with a flat melamine self-adhesive edge, 2-mm front edges and 0.4 mm are invisible, see fig. on right. Melamine is a heat-resistant material, and you can shred it at home with a hot iron through a clean thin cloth or, better, a fluoroplastic film. But first you need to find out what will be cheaper: edging along with cutting in a furniture company or an independent edge, purchased at retail in small quantities.

Payment

Chipboard "lives" up to 25-30 years. Then the binder begins to disintegrate, swell, and the ends of the parts take on the form of what is shown in Fig. left. A laminated chipboard sheet 2750x1850x16 mm (5 sq. M and 0.08 cubic meters) of the 1st grade glossy will cost from 4000 rubles; 2-leaf cabinet requires 2 sheets. Textured chipboard without gloss of the 2nd grade can be found from 1100 rubles / sheet, but its phenol emission class will be from E2, which is unacceptable for residential premises.

Cutting sheets according to a drawing will cost about 500 rubles, and about 1000 more for edging parts. We don't count the fittings, they are the same for any cabinet. Total for laminated chipboard for a cabinet for 20 years "like everyone else", about 9500 rubles. Let's add another 200 (this is very godly) for confirms with stubs, since for laminated chipboard, this is the only acceptable option for assembly, see below. In total, about 10 thousand.

Array

Finished furniture boards will need the same 5 sq. m, since they are produced planed with a thickness of 18 mm. Approximate prices for a square of a 600 mm wide board:

Gnarled pine 28 mm (after varnishing with tinted varnish, very beautiful furniture is obtained from it) - approx. 1850 RUB / sq. m, i.e. OK. RUB 9250 on the closet.

Straight-grained pine - 1950 rubles / sq. m and 9,750 rubles. accordingly.

An oak of the same dimensions, 20 mm thick (admittedly, it is durable) - 7500 rubles / sq. m and 37,500 rubles. acc.

The fasteners will take up to 200 rubles, it is wooden, see below. Another approx. RUB 1,500 - for varnish and glue. And the same amount as for laminated chipboard - for cutting, because the material is expensive and it is expensive to learn from it.

It can already be concluded that a do-it-yourself wardrobe should only be made of pine: an array of larch and birch is not much cheaper than oak, and beech, ash, walnut and maple are more expensive. Nevertheless, pine cabinets made of solid wood serve for 100-200 years or more.

Board

Edged boards on the cabinet will go approximately (30/16) x0.08 = 0.15 cubic meters. m. Let's give another supply for amateur processing and take 0.25 cubic meters. m. Pine will cost approx. 5000 rubles / cubic meter m; oak and beech - approx. 24,000 rubles / cubic meter m. per cabinet - approx. 1250 and 6000 rubles. respectively; for fasteners, varnish and glue - as before. case.

There is one more argument in favor of natural wood. Take a look at fig. It is possible to make such doors from laminated chipboard and self-adhesive only in a thermal vacuum chamber, i.e. in production. And from wood it is difficult, but it is possible at home, using a hand router with a shaped cutter, there is a stop. The curves are drawn by applying a template to the corresponding edge of the workpiece. You can also practice cutting / simple carving by buying an extra board, not ruinous. To practice working skills, cheap pine or any wood trimmings will go.

However, making a homemade wardrobe made of boards takes a long time and is difficult. First, the purchased lumber must be aged outdoors under a canopy from autumn to summer. This will be a complete analogue of industrial preparation by steaming up to 100% moisture, followed by drying with superheated steam. Further, the boards will need to be dried in a warm, dry room again until autumn: the cabinet is not a stool, the moisture content of the wood is needed up to 6%.

Then the boards will need to be rallied from the boards, like the tabletop of a dining table, using a homemade edging. They rally on a smooth joint, but not plywood, but of the same tree, or on dowels, see below.

Note: furniture boards need to be purchased absolutely sound, without the slightest traces of rot and mold. Boards bleached with wood reducing agents are not suitable.

Total by material

In general, if you want to make at least some kind of wardrobe in a couple or two days off until you have enough money for good purchased furniture, then the uncontested option is laminated chipboard at confirmations. If you intend to pass on the memory of yourself to your children and grandchildren in the form of homemade furniture (which by that time may become valuable antiques), then you should also consider the option of a wooden cabinet. Moreover, a boardwalk made of valuable species of wood will not cost more than a quick homemade chipboard made of chipboard.

Connections

How to connect cabinet parts? Eccentrics, pos. 1 in Fig., Sweep aside immediately. These are connections of inexpensive quick-assembly / dismountable furniture; simply - consumer goods: they brought in, blinded / inserted, twisted, took the money, washed away.

Thread profile and head configuration of confirmations, pos. 2, specially designed for laminated chipboard; wood on confirmations holds up worse, and laminated chipboard on wood-to-wood joints, see below, is generally very bad. Please note only that, in addition to furniture confirmations with a hex head, there are plumbing, for plastic, with a cross recess. They are not interchangeable!

A special drill is needed under the confirmations, below in pos. 2, for each standard size of these hardware - its own. The holes for the confirmations must be drilled along the conductor, pos. 3, otherwise the likelihood of splitting some of the boards during assembly is very high. The conductor is expensive, for a one-time job it is better to rent it.

It is also advisable to drill dowel holes along the conductor, pos. 4 is the best way to assemble wood furniture. The fact is that the lignin of dowels and boards is gradually welded into a single mass, and the connection on the dowels gains strength over time. Furniture restorers are familiar with this phenomenon.

Note: if the furniture is of this kind that can immediately experience extreme loads (say, a bed), then the dowels are placed with wedging. But we will leave the description of this technology until a suitable occasion.

Ready-made dowels and blanks for them in different sizes are on sale and are inexpensive. They need to be taken of the same kind as the boards to be joined, but harder: for pine - larch dowels, for hardwood furniture, oak. Oak is harvested on oak dowels.

Also, a wide range of dowels (lamellas) are sold for rallying shields from boards, pos. 5. The rules for choosing dowels are the same as for dowels. As for the box connection pos. 6, then you need to learn how to do it if you have conceived a real wooden cabinet for centuries. In other cases, you can get by more easily, see below about filling, especially since the boxes are removable modules, and you can then remake them.

About drywall cabinets

Drywall (GKL) is widely used in construction. But this is a finishing material, not a structural one. Therefore, thinking about the cabinet from the gypsum board, keep in mind:

It will need a complex frame made of special C- and U-profiles, pos. 1 in the figure, and a lot of fasteners.

You will not be able to move this cabinet.

To hinge the doors, you will have to make a wooden frame on the facade, because in the profiles the hinges do not hold and the entire frame immediately leads from using the doors.

Drywall is easily scratched and crumbled, so heavy, hard and sharp objects should not be placed on the shelves.

In fact, a drywall cabinet is used in 2 cases. The first is a radius rack in a room with curved walls, pos. 2, because it is quite possible to make parts bent in one plane from gypsum plasterboard at home. What, however, cannot be said about radius doors, without which a wardrobe is not a wardrobe.

The second is a simple corner cabinet for household goods, pos. 3. For this, the scraps of the gypsum board remaining from the suspended ceiling, etc. will do. With the indicated dimensions, a complex frame is not needed, but if there are doors, then the front frame is still required.

Filling

Boxes

The "real" drawer of the cabinet is arranged, as in the nightstand, see fig., Only the dimensions are different. But at first, so as not to drag out the work, it is better to collect boxes of boxes on confirmations from chipboard, plain polished, without texture, and paint. The decorative façade can then be rearranged to a “correct” drawer of the same size. Or maybe leave it as it is: the thick, strong bottom will allow the use of lower guides with a high bearing capacity.

Cabinet drawers are always used more intensively and are loaded more than in the nightstand; they often put / look for something in the depths. Therefore, you should not put them on homemade wooden guides. By the way, the first attempts to make full removal guides for cabinet drawers belong neither more nor less ... to the 15th century. This is how the seizures and distortions got the furniture makers even then.

Drawer guides are divided into bottom and side, depending on the way they are attached to the drawer. But this division is very arbitrary, since both ultimately hold onto the walls / partitions of the cabinet, which determines the strength of the suspension as a whole. When choosing guides, more attention should be paid to the technological gaps on the sides and between the drawers: the space "eaten" by them significantly affects the capacity and cost of the product.

For the drawers of the kitchen cabinet, which, however, requires a separate discussion, lower guides such as metabox or their analogs are needed. The weakest of them are kept at full range from 20 kg, and there are models for 50-70, even if you dump a bag of potatoes into a box. But metaboxes are by no means cheap, but by default they are supplied with closers, i.e. the extended drawer slides back by itself from a slight push by the hand.

For ordinary boxes, the usual lower roller guides will fit, as, say, for the keyboard board of a computer desk, at the top in Fig. Their closer works quite roughly and a heavy box does not always bring it completely, but they are cheap and hold up to 12-15 kg when fully extended, including the weight of the box.

Boxes for books, tools, etc. it is better to put on Kulkov's ball guides, at the bottom in the same place. They are relatively inexpensive, practically eternal (no plastic parts), do not require technical clearances at the top and bottom, and hold up to 20 kg when fully extended. There is only one drawback: there is no closer.

Shelves

You can't say much about the shelves: the board is like a board. Thickness from 16 mm for laminated chipboard, from 24 mm pine, from 18 mm oak. Chipboard is closed “on the face” with a 2-mm edge, and on the sides and back - 0.4 mm, which must be taken into account when designing. It is not necessary to neglect the edging so that the board does not crumble and dust. But, depending on the general tone of the finish, you can take polished chipboard instead of edging, prime and paint.

There are also only 3 tricks in the shelf holders. First, do not take metal from aluminum-magnesium alloy, but plastic from PVC or polyethylene. The former are fragile, the latter are weak. The second - take it with self-tapping screws. Plug-in on smooth pins will break out of the sockets over time. And the third - for an unpretentious utility cabinet, very strong and reliable shelf holders are obtained from skirting boards, see fig.

Barbell

Now the so-called. end hanger bars, see fig. But, frankly, they are for avid neat people: summer blouses are here, shirts are there, and skirt pants are there and nowhere else. The end rods do not increase the capacity of the cabinet, only it is seen worse where that hangs. And take the usual longitudinal rods whatever you like and your pocket, there are no unusable ones on sale.

Project

Independent design of a wardrobe and furniture in general is not very difficult these days: there are convenient computer programs. Of the Russian-speaking people, PRO100 and Basis-Mebelshchik are popular in free distribution. Both are quite powerful and functional, but the first is more suitable for virtual furniture arrangement in the interior, and the second for detailed design of individual products.

For both softwares there are training videos, they are available in the Russian Internet and separately. But, as with any new software, general ambiguities can arise among experienced users. Namely: where to start, how where to go and where to come. No one has yet invented a uniquely linear system of bookmarks with tools / options. And this is hardly possible for creatures with an intelligence higher than that of a fire pump. For Basis-Mebelshchik, the general wardrobe design instructions look like this:

We enter the overall dimensions of the cabinet according to the measurements on site, this is the most crucial stage;

We set the dimensions of the base, bottom and roof;

We compose the back wall (fiberboard by default) with stiffening ribs (tsars, by default laminated chipboard);

We compose internal partitions, vertical and horizontal, according to the division of the cabinet into sections. What and how much is up to you, not the program;

We make filling with boxes. Shelves, bars, baskets Basis-Furniture-maker does not automatically install, because they are mounted in a ready-made cabinet on site;

We enter the dimensions of the cabinet doors, but they need to be designed separately;

Optionally add mezzanines and open side racks;

We carry edges and accessories to places;

We send for printing drawings and specifications with the exact dimensions of the parts: they are what we need to purchase, order, saw, drill, cut.

Assembly

The production of individual modules has been discussed above in the course of the presentation, so let's go straight to how to put it all together. The assembly of a cabinet from laminated chipboard on confirmations is not technologically difficult and is carried out in the following order:

The bottom and sidewalls are tried on in place: was there an error when measuring the dimensions, pos. 1 in fig.;

Collect the box of the base and put the internal partitions, tk. they are attached through the bottom, pos. 2;

In place (transfer the workpiece carefully!), Put the sidewalls so that the base falls exactly on the floor, pos. 3;

They put a roof on;

They move the cabinet aside, it is already strong enough, and the back wall is sewn up;

Slide the cabinet back into place and assemble the filling;

They take out boxes, shelves, a bar (if it is in pockets, and not fixed tightly), baskets, etc.

Doors are mounted;

Collect and put mezzanines with racks, if any.

Assembling a wooden cabinet on dowels differs in that the internal partitions are placed after the sidewalls, because otherwise, they may break off when the workpiece is moved. And also by the fact that there is enough technical stock under the ceiling for a cabinet without mezzanines: dowel protrusion + roof thickness + (10-12) mm.

Special cases

The first is the entrance hall. The wardrobe is needed, firstly, it is small in width; English halls are not in use here. It is also desirable to combine it with a hanger, then a sliding single-leaf cabinet will be required, see fig. on the right, because clothes will sometimes be hung in it damp and in a deaf box it will soper. You also need more shelves for gloves, hats, scarves, summer clothes, and, of course, shoe. But the boxes may not exist at all.

Schemes of wardrobes in the hallway, swing and sliding, are shown in Fig. The first one is designed for a family of 2-3 people; the second is a bachelor. The depth of the first is determined based on the minimum permissible passage width of 900 mm. If you want to make it sliding, you need to add 170-220 mm to it, depending on the selected door suspension system.

The second is a balcony. It is not worth putting a cabinet there, arranged in a room: it will block a lot of light and dust collectors are formed, see Fig. On the balcony, you need a wardrobe mainly of horizontal modules, or an unequal corner.

A drawing of a cabinet, suitable for extremely narrow balconies of Khrushchev, is shown on the left in Fig., And a corner one - on the right in the same place. The latter will not block the evacuation hatch yet, because is placed in the gap between the fire escape and the wall, which otherwise uselessly takes up space.

Finally

Let's hope that this publication has at least a little clarified for you in detail how to make a wardrobe yourself. And as an example of the general progress of work on the manufacture of a wardrobe, we offer a video. For the rest - good luck, patience, ingenuity, accuracy!

Video: DIY wardrobe assembly