Insulation of a log house from the outside: technology, materials. How to insulate a house from a bar outside - the best methods and materials Insulation for a log house for metal siding

Warming the house outside for siding is a mandatory stage of such finishing works... Despite the fact that a house made of wood is already warm enough, because for its construction, a bar or rounded log with a thickness of about 18-20 cm is usually used; for the most economical fuel consumption, natural thermal insulation properties are not enough. And that is why it is recommended to additionally insulate the structure. Siding used for decoration wooden house outside, it is best combined with thermal insulation in the construction of a ventilated facade. It is not difficult to understand what is outside. The choice in this case is rather narrow. You can use polystyrene, ecowool and mineral wool.

What to look for when choosing a heater?

Before insulating wooden house outside, you need to understand the basic functions of thermal insulation. The main task any insulation is to reduce heat loss by lowering heat transfer around the perimeter of a wooden house. A building can lose up to 80% of its heat through the walls. Thus, the higher the available heat loss, the lower the thermal conductivity of the used insulation.

Quite often, materials based on mineral wool are used to insulate a wooden house for siding. Unlike foam, this thermal insulation additionally provides good protection from the noise. If it will be done with foam, it is recommended to arrange additional sound insulation.

In addition, the foam tolerates moisture well. And mineral wool loses its properties even with insignificant wetting.

If thermal insulation based on mineral wool is used, it is imperative to use special moisture-proof membranes.

When choosing foam for insulating a wooden house, you need to pay attention to the existing markings. If the material is marked with G1, this means that it almost does not support combustion on its own. When buying polystyrene, be sure to check its integrity, because these sheets are quite fragile.

When choosing a material for insulating a wooden house from the outside, pay attention to the following main characteristics:

Thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the less heat will go through the walls.
Water absorption - the higher it is, the more moisture the insulation can absorb without losing its original characteristics.
Density - the higher it is, the better.
The degree of flammability - indicates the fire hazard of the insulation.

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Features of home insulation under foam siding

One of the main advantages that many homeowners choose for outdoor insulation under siding is the ease of installation. The material is characterized by a fairly high rigidity and low weight. It can be glued or attached to the wall with disc dowels.

This is where the advantages of foam as a material for external insulation under siding end. Especially when you consider that in recent times Styrofoam began to cost almost as much as mineral wool. There are many different opinions about the durability of this insulation. Objectively, he is not able to serve for more than 12-15 years, because ages and breaks down quickly, like other polymers.

Polyfoam is characterized by low vapor permeability. By using it for, you will get rid of natural air exchange and conclude with your own hands own house in an impenetrable thermos. As a result, excess moisture can only be removed using mechanical ventilation or airing. However, this option is not entirely acceptable, since warmth will leave the house.

Do not believe the stories that foam plastic has very good sound insulation properties. There is nothing supernatural about it. And even more, with certain conditions on the contrary, it amplifies the noise, because falls into the resonant frequency of sound vibrations.

In view of all of the above, it is better to abandon the use of foam as a material for external wall insulation. It is well suited for insulation concrete screed, sewerage, water supply and other engineering communications... It is in these cases that he will be able to fully manifest such qualities as minimal thermal conductivity and low water absorption.

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Mineral wool insulation is the best solution

The optimal material for external insulation of a wooden house for siding is mineral wool and its derivatives. It goes well with both metal and plastic siding.

When insulating under siding, not rolled, but semi-rigid mineral wool folded in the form of slabs is used. The slabs are 100x50 cm in size. Rolled cotton wool is more difficult to install. In addition, after a while it slides down and exposes individual pieces of the wall.

Before cladding with siding mineral wool need to cover vapor barrier film... This material will not only prevent the insulation from spraying, but will also prevent water vapor from passing from the walls of the house into the ventilation gap.

If the issue of environmental friendliness is not for you last place, then it is better to use not mineral wool, but more safe material called ecowool. This insulation is made from cellulose with additives ( boric acid and brown), preventing rotting and increasing fire-fighting properties.

When installing ecowool, some difficulties may arise, because it is not yet produced in the format of rigid panels, which can be fixed with disc dowels or glue. To fix such a heater, you will need special equipment.

In terms of sound and heat-shielding characteristics, ecowool practically does not differ from mineral wool. The fibrous, loose structure of both materials perfectly absorbs all kinds of noise.

When comparatively calculating the cost of insulation with ecowool, mineral wool and polystyrene, it is necessary to take into account that the cost of its application is taken into account for the first type of insulation.

If you do not take into account the cost of applying ecowool, then it is the most inexpensive insulation of those that can be used to insulate walls for siding. The second place is occupied by mineral wool, and the most expensive material is the facade foam.

It is important for every person that his home is comfortable and warm, especially taking into account the fact that our climate is rather harsh. When building a house from a bar, you should mandatory insulate outside. This is the only way to achieve a good microclimate at a time when frost is raging outside the window. In this case, you can use a beam, the thickness of which will be less than 40 cm.

However, you will have to spend a little here, because the problem of thermal insulation by sealing cracks and caulking cannot be solved. In severe frost, the timber can freeze directly. As a result, it becomes necessary to insulate the house from a bar outside, since this is the most effective one.

Advantages of house insulation outside

What needs to be considered when insulating the walls of a log house

First of all, use the correct insulation;
be able to correctly estimate the thickness of the thermal insulation material;
laying should be carried out strictly according to technology;
it is necessary to carry out all necessary actions for waterproofing;
to ensure the protection of the log house from the factor ultraviolet radiation etc.

External insulation can be equipped in several options:

with the help of a hinged ventilated facade;
using polyurethane spraying.
with the help of foam insulation.

No. 1 - Hinged ventilated facade

Warming using this method is one of the best options because he has whole line merits:

fairly quick installation;
various choice of material for cladding, including a rack profile, lining, siding, wooden facade board, porcelain stoneware and so on.
excellent heat and sound insulation;
the service life is approaching 50 years;
finishing materials can have a wide variety of colors;
significant reduction in heating costs;
the facade is resistant to atmospheric agents;
the dew point is displaced beyond the outer wall.

Scheme of a hinged ventilated facade

Insulation technology

A layer of insulation is attached to the outer walls, after which it is closed with decorative trim.

No. 2 - Laying insulation under siding

Attention! If mineral wool is used as a heater, a diffusion membrane should be used to protect it from moisture. It is a perforated film that is capable of letting vapor outward, but does not allow atmospheric moisture to be absorbed into the insulation. If fiberglass or polystyrene is used, then they will not need moisture protection.

No. 3 - Polyurethane foam spraying method

This method has the following advantages:

This method is used for thermal insulation of the foundation, walls and basement of the house. It is quite popular when insulating the outer walls of houses from a bar.

Finishing wall cladding

Sheathing log house plastic siding

To sheathe a house from a bar outside, it is advisable to use wooden boards, the thickness of which will be at least 25 mm. Also, that they are made of larch, pine or oak. In this case, important parameter, in which both the cladding and the walls will breathe better.

Finishing wooden planks lets the walls breathe

Important! During the installation of the cladding on the lower and top edges the facade should create special slots for ventilation. To prevent rain or snow from falling behind the facade, special visors can be mounted on the cracks.

In the next article, we will consider - which insulation is best for this type?

Thermal insulation of vertical enclosing structures of a log house is usually performed at the construction stage: cracks and gaps between the crowns are caulked with moss, tape tow or hemp. With time natural insulation can be damaged by moths, birds and rodents and lose heat-shielding properties.

Such a structure must be insulated anew, improving at the same time with the help of cladding with modern finishing materials. appearance... Thermal insulation of a log house is performed in two ways, from the inside and outside.

The most effective is considered external thermal insulation walls of a wooden blockhouse.

External thermal insulation of a wooden building facade

For thermal protection of the facade of a building from a bar, the following materials are most often used:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
Styrofoam.

When choosing any of these insulation building materials and creating a thermal insulation system for a wooden house, you will definitely need to install the lathing and wall cladding on top of this material. For the installation of the lathing, you will need a timber measuring 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 60 mm (depending on the thickness of the insulation). First, the bars are mounted at the corners of the building, on the sides of doors and windows, connecting them together cross bars... Then, an internal lattice is built from wooden planks, which are fixed at intervals of 4-6 cm. For a log house, it will be necessary to stuff an additional lath, which forms a ventilation gap between the insulation and the cladding. If the walls are insulated outside with mineral wool, then a waterproofing layer and a vapor barrier are mounted. For the device of waterproofing, canvases are inserted into the compartments of the frame plastic film or foil, the edges of which should go over the ends of the timber. Diffuse membranes are used as a vapor barrier.

The membrane is spread over the top of the frame by 15 cm, carefully sealing the joints. Mineral wool mats are placed in the compartments between the layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier building materials, thus protected from moisture. Mineral wool slabs are additionally attached to the walls with dowels or nails with a wide head, placing them in the corners of the slabs and in the middle of it. Most cheap stuff for cladding - siding, which is attached from the outside of the insulation cake to the slats of the lattice frame.

Thermal insulation with bulk insulation

Insulation with inexpensive bulk building material (ecowool) of horizontal elements of a wooden structure is carried out as follows:

the concrete ceiling from the attic side is cleaned of debris, dust and covered with bitumen mastic
install logs from a bar with a thickness of 5 cm
ecowool is pre-fluffed in a separate container and placed between the logs, filling all the gaps and voids between the logs
mount topcoat from OSB - slabs or grooved floorboards

Protection against floor heat loss can be done with your own hands from the side of the basement with expanded clay. From the beginning, the existing flooring is dismantled, the soil is leveled and compacted. Then a sandy - crushed stone pillow is poured, which is covered on top waterproofing material... Dry expanded clay is poured into the subfloor by 50 - 60 cm and spilled with cement milk. Finishing stage - recovery wood covering... Thermal insulation of the floor can also be done from inside the room.

Roof thermal insulation

When insulating the roof from the inside, roll mineral wool is used. It is laid on top of a layer of waterproofing between the rafters of the rafters. Waterproofing film should go to the ends rafter legs... Outside the mineral wool mats, a diffuse membrane is attached in a continuous layer. This is followed by finishing with fiberboard plates and boards.

For proper thermal insulation, all elements of the frame made of wood, the roof truss system and the facade timber construction impregnated with fire retardant and antibacterial compounds.

Strict adherence to all the rules of the insulation technology guarantees the durability of the log dwelling.

All proposals of manufacturers of thermal insulation materials should be studied in advance.

You need to choose the insulation for the walls of a wooden house that best meets the basic requirements for such products. The main requirements are as follows:

Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, the material should be light, porous and, due to this, well insulating;
Safety of use, for example, it is resistance to combustion, the release of toxic gases when heated;
Low hygroscopicity, insulation for siding for a wooden house should not absorb moisture. Most heaters do not fit this requirement, but for a house made of a bar outside, due to its rapid decay when moisture gets on it, this requirement becomes one of the main ones;
Long service life, which is important, in view of the fact that insulation work is carried out once and for long term;
And last but not least, the cost of the material, although for some owners wooden houses this is not the last requirement and a good result is not the main thing for them.

So, what do manufacturers of materials for insulating wooden houses offer today, what kind of thermal insulation is? We will try to decide which insulation is better.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Thermal insulation of a wooden house using foam spraying has been rapidly gaining popularity in recent years.

There are several reasons for this:

The material is applied seamlessly and is excellent insulation;
Due to the fact that when spraying, polyurethane foam increases several times in volume, it penetrates altogether, even the smallest cracks and reliably seals them;
The insulation is hygroscopic and well protects the wooden structure from moisture penetration, which allows you to insulate a house from a bar and not worry about the fact that under a layer of insulation it will quickly become unusable;
If there are defects on the log house of a wooden house, thanks to the use of polyurethane foam, it is possible to significantly increase the service life of the log by cleaning it and processing it with foam;
The thickness of the foam is chosen by the customer and it can start from 1 cm;
Polyurethane foam does not require careful preparation for installation; for its application, it is enough to clean the walls from dirt and dust and slightly moisten with water to accelerate the polymerization process;

Thus, insulating an old wooden house from the outside under siding with polyurethane foam, even despite its rather high cost, is one of the best options.
Next, consider a budget option insulation for a wooden house - expanded polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene, or popularly known to everyone as polystyrene, is the cheapest, but not the worst option to insulate a log house from the outside. Its thermal characteristics are high, hygroscopicity indicators are low, which allows it to protect the wooden structure from moisture penetration.
The main disadvantage of polystyrene is that rodents simply adore it. Due to the fact that the material crumbles easily, mice very often make their nests in foam. Thus, the insulation gradually deteriorates and the thermal characteristics of the house decrease. To combat this phenomenon, during the installation process, you can use special impregnating materials that scare off rodents, but as practice shows, this is an ineffective way of protection.
Any available fasteners can be used to fasten the material to the walls of a wooden house. It can be nails, screws, various adhesives.

The next modern material is a derivative of polystyrene foam called extruded polystyrene foam, or it can also be called extruded polystyrene foam. Many manufacturers offer it under their own brand names, for example, penoplex or greenplex. In fact, these are all the same material, which differs only by the manufacturer.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The material came to us from the United States and almost immediately gained popularity when carrying out work on the insulation of both wooden houses and brick, concrete and other structures. Such insulation is used not only to insulate the walls of houses, but also to create warm foundations, insulation of roofs, balconies and other places that need additional insulation.
The main characteristics of the material are slightly better than that of polystyrene, but its relative disadvantage is its high cost. It is quite simple to install the insulation and carry out the insulation with the help of it, maybe even a person who does not have any skills in construction.
Next, consider roll insulation.

Mineral wool

Average in price and with high characteristics of thermal protection material, it is. The material retains the warmth of a wooden house quite well, but it does not resist moisture well. To be more precise, if the installation is carried out incorrectly, mineral wool is able to absorb moisture, while losing its ability to retain heat, which is the main negative factor of its use.
For this reason, it is necessary to use steam and waterproofing together, which complicates the installation process and leads to additional costs. But in practice, mineral wool is used quite often, due to its low cost.

Tools required for correct installation

When starting to insulate a wooden house, it is necessary to prepare in advance all the tools that may be required during the work. Namely:
A screwdriver, you cannot do without it for any type of work related to insulation and;

Building level or plumb line;
The rule is at least two meters long;
Angle grinder (grinder);
Stationery knife;
Construction lace or nylon rope for marking;
Metal scissors;
Stepladder;
Extension;
Hammer;
Pliers.

Correct insulation algorithm

Let's take a closer look at the algorithm of how to properly insulate your wooden house outside for siding, using for this sheet insulation for example, extruded polystyrene foam.

Preparation

The first thing to start work with, before sheathing the house, is to free the walls as much as possible, which are planned to be insulated and then decorate the house with siding with your own hands. To do this, you will need to dismantle the ebb and slopes from the windows. Remove elements that protect the corners of the house if the house is chopped into a paw. And also it is necessary to carefully inspect the walls for the presence of logs that have defects. If such elements are available, they must be processed using any available antiseptic solution, after which the damaged areas can be foamed. polyurethane foam.
Further, the work can be carried out in two ways:

Proceed with the installation of insulation, and then install the crate and sew it up with siding;
Install the frame and only then insulate the walls.

Advice: as practice shows, it is much more convenient to use the first method and the insulation carried out in this way is much more effective, since the material is mounted as tightly as possible, and then it is additionally pressed against the wall using suspended elements of the frame structure.

Insulation installation

As a fastening of insulation sheets, it is convenient to use self-tapping screws designed for screwing into a tree, at least 70-80 mm long. Or you can use regular metal nails. In order to press and not drive the self-tapping screw inside the insulation, it is convenient to use suspensions designed for fastening a metal profile. To do this, you need to cut them into small pieces.

Installation of insulation starts from the bottom and gradually moves up.

Tip: for maximum effect, the joints between the sheets extruded polystyrene foam, can be foamed with polyurethane foam. It will turn the structure into a monolith and prevent cold penetration through the joints.

Layout and installation of the frame

The next step is markup. The markup is necessary in order to determine exactly where you need to install the suspension elements, which will further hold the frame elements.
When marking up, you need to know the basic rules for installing a frame for siding. Namely:

The first elements of the frame are installed at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the corners of the house;
It is also necessary to install along the edges of windows and doors metallic profile;
The lathing step must be at least 40 cm and no more than 60;
Each frame profile must be supported by at least three hangers.

After the crate is exposed, you can start assembling the frame. The profiles that make up the basis of the siding lathing must be located strictly vertically. To control the location, a level is used, and in some cases a plumb line. The end elements are installed first, then the control lace is pulled and the rest are mounted with its help.

Fastening siding

After making the frame, you can start attaching the siding. To do this, you will need to have sharp self-tapping screws PSh 13 mm.

Important: stripes finishing material are mounted strictly horizontally and any deviations from this rule can lead to the fact that the plates above the windows may simply not come together and the work will need to start anew.

After the siding is fixed, it is necessary to install slopes and ebb tides on the windows, as well as close the inner and outer corners each of the walls, using pre-made or purchased corners for this.

Thus, work on proper insulation at home with the use of extruded polystyrene foam as insulation is over.

Now we will consider the main differences between insulation with polyurethane foam and the installation of extruded polystyrene foam.

Differences in polyurethane foam insulation

The most basic difference is that polyurethane foam does not need any type of attachment, since when it is applied to the surface, it adheres tightly and after passing through the polymerization process, it can only be removed mechanically.

The second difference is the application stage. As a rule, polyurethane foam is applied after the profile fixing suspensions are installed, this is done immediately after the preparation and marking has been carried out. After the foam is sprayed, it takes a little time to finish internal processes and gaining strength, and after that you can continue to work on further finishing the house.

Video

Below you can watch a video on how to properly sheathe a house with insulated siding. The video shows how to do this, what materials are used. Also on the video, you can see what exactly the master does before starting the insulation of the walls.

Output

The correct insulation of a wooden house depends not only on how the installation was carried out directly, but also on the right choice material. Some modern materials, are not only insulation, but also can additionally protect wooden structure from moisture and decay processes.

The dimensions of the timber used for the construction of walls are limited by the diameter of the tree. In regions where subzero temperature in winter it sometimes reaches -40 ° С, for such a house, heating costs significantly increase. Insulating the walls of the house and covering them with clapboard or siding partly solves the problem without detracting from the advantages of wood.

The choice of insulation

The purpose of thermal insulation is to prevent the penetration of cold or warm air. The resistance to heat transfer of materials is mainly due to the presence a large number closed pores filled with air. The thermal conductivity of air is very low and amounts to 0.02 W / (m · 0 С).

Only air in a standing state does not conduct heat or cold. In the air flow, its thermal conductivity increases. Consequently, the smaller the pores in the material, the lower its thermal conductivity. Also, the thinner the layer of solid between the pores, the lower the heat absorption rate.

Cellular insulation - expanded polystyrene

In terms of structure, heat insulators of fibrous (glass, eco- or mineral wool) and cellular (polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene) origin are used to insulate walls from a bar. In shape, given the vertical installation of the material, these can be rolls or slabs.

Roll fiber insulation - glass wool

The porous structure of the heat insulator is created:

foaming the starting material;
the introduction of gas-forming additives;
the connection of individual particles or fibers during heating, gluing or other action.

When many thermal insulation materials get wet, their conductivity increases significantly. The indicator characterizing the resistance to heat transfer is 25 times higher for water than for air. That is why most heat insulators need moisture protection.

It is also necessary to take into account such an indicator thermal insulation material as breathability, which is important when working with wood structures. Cellular types of heat insulator, having closed pores in their structure, do not have the ability to let air through, so the wood is not ventilated.

Most often applicable insulation for wooden walls one can name basalt slabs with a thermal conductivity of 0.032-0.048 W / (m ∙ K). Receive basalt wool by blowing up the igneous rock of basalt.

For exterior decoration of the facade, the undoubted advantages are the following properties of this material:

high rates of sound and heat insulation;
fire safety;
resistance to biocorrosion;
environmental Safety;
frost and heat resistance;
breathability;
optimal ratio of material costs and high thermal insulation performance.

Installation of lathing

Before installing the frame for finishing with siding or clapboard, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the wall. If an operating house is sheathed, all protruding elements of the facade (platbands, decor details, etc.) must be removed.

The damaged parts of the wall are best replaced or repaired. The cracks in the joints of the timber are caulked natural materials(jute, linseed tow, felt) or synthetic wood sealant. The walls of a house made of timber must be antiseptic before starting work.

Wooden lathing elements are made of conifers trees, which also need to be treated with an antiseptic. The moisture content of the wood should not exceed 15%. To save material and ease of installation, it is advisable to make a drawing of the layout of the bars, according to which to prepare all the elements of the frame. The thickness of the bars is taken from 30 mm, the height depends on the thickness of the insulation.

The installation of the frame begins with framing the facade and openings. The distance between the lathing bars is determined from the conditions for the installation of the cladding (the size of the siding panel, the length of the lining board and the width of the insulation) from 400 to 1000 mm.

Important with the help building level check the verticality and horizontalness of the surface for finishing. The direction of the battens should be perpendicular to the direction cladding panels or boards.

For the convenience of installation of intermediate elements of the battens, ropes are pulled from the corner bars from the bottom and top of the facade. You can mark all the elements on the wall with chalk.

Fasteners for the installation of the battens are selected with an anti-corrosion coating or from corrosion-resistant steel. Its quantity is taken at the rate of 1 screw (nail) per 40 cm of the length of the bar. The depth of pinching of the nail when connecting the elements is allowed at least 25 mm.

Thermal and vapor barrier device

The external enclosing structures of the walls in terms of thermal insulation must have the following properties:

It is good enough to resist the passage of heat through them. The thermal conductivity coefficient is taken in the range of 0.04-0.06 W / (m ∙ K).
The inner surface should have a temperature that is little different from temperature regime premises.
Be resistant to unexpected fluctuations in ambient temperature.
The structure of the wall should not be saturated with moisture, as this significantly reduces its thermal properties and reduces its durability.
Have a density of no more than 250 kg / m 3 in order not to significantly load bearing structures walls.
The compressive strength for the heat insulator should be above 20 kPa at 10% deformation.

External insulation of wooden walls with an air gap and exterior decoration siding or clapboard can be produced both during the construction of a new building and during its reconstruction. The cladding screen protects the insulation from mechanical damage, wind loads, exposure to precipitation and sunlight.

The creation of a ventilated gap prevents the accumulation of moisture in the wall structure, reduces its heat conduction, and prolongs the service life of the entire building. For a permeable finishing layer of the wall, according to the results of calculations of the humidity regime by specialists, in structures with an air gap, additional vapor barrier between the wall and the heat insulator is not required.

Insulation rolls or slabs are placed between the frame bars. The width of the heat insulator is taken 2 cm wider in order to create a small spacer without increasing the density of the material. It can be fastened to the wall using facade anchors, dowels, even nails, using an insulation holder or simple washers.

WITH outside a heat-insulating layer requires a wind-vapor barrier device. To ensure a wooden structure under normal operating conditions, air access to its surface is required. That is why the use of dense airtight films as vapor barrier is undesirable.

The most effective moisture insulating material with the ability to "breathe" is diffuse membranes. They are produced one-, two-sided and three-layer (they accumulate moisture in the inner layer, then evaporate it). For the option of wall insulation with an air gap, it is sufficient to use a one-sided membrane. Its vapor-retaining surface is located outside.

Docking of the insulating material is carried out with the overlap of the canvases by 15 cm at least. It is better to fix the membrane with adhesive tape. On top of the vapor barrier layer, slats with a thickness of 20 to 50 mm are mounted on the lathing bars for the device of a ventilated gap. Everything wooden structures must be protected with an antiseptic coating.