Reducing the heat loss of the apartment. How to calculate heat loss at home: features, recommendations and a program How to remove heat loss from the foundation

It is generally accepted that for middle lane In Russia, the power of heating systems should be calculated based on the ratio of 1 kW per 10 m 2 of heated area. What does SNiP say and what are the real calculated heat loss houses built from different materials?

SNiP indicates which house can be considered, let's say, correct. We will borrow from it building codes for the Moscow region and compare them with typical houses, built of timber, logs, foam concrete, aerated concrete, brick and frame technologies.

How it should be according to the rules (SNiP)

However, the values we have taken of 5400 degree-days for the Moscow region are borderline to the value 6000, according to which, in accordance with SNiP, the heat transfer resistance of walls and roofs should be 3.5 and 4.6 m 2 ° C / W, respectively, which is equivalent to 130 and 170 mm of mineral wool with a thermal conductivity coefficient λА = 0.038 W / (m · ° K).

As in reality

Often people build "frame houses", log, log and stone houses based on available materials and technology. For example, in order to comply with SNiP, the diameter of the logs of a log house must be more than 70 cm, but this is absurd! Therefore, most often they build it as it is more convenient or as you like.

For comparative calculations, we will use a convenient heat loss calculator, which is located on the website of its author. To simplify calculations, let's take a one-story rectangular room with sides of 10 x 10 meters. One wall is blank, the rest have two small windows with double-glazed windows, plus one insulated door. The roof and ceiling are insulated 150 mm stone wool, as the most typical option.

In addition to heat loss through walls, there is also the concept of infiltration - air penetration through the walls, as well as the concept of household heat release (from the kitchen, appliances, etc.), which, according to SNiP, is equal to 21 W per m2. But we will not take this into account now. As well as ventilation losses, because this requires a completely separate discussion. The temperature difference was taken as 26 degrees (22 in the room and -4 outside - as averaged over the heating season in the Moscow region).

So here is the final comparison chart of heat loss of houses made of different materials:

Peak heat losses are calculated for an outdoor temperature of -25 ° C. They show what maximum power the heating system should be. "House according to SNiP (3.5, 4.6, 0.6)" is a calculation based on the stricter SNiP requirements for the thermal resistance of walls, roofs and floors, which is applicable to houses in slightly more northern regions than the Moscow region ... Although, often, they can be applied to it.

The main conclusion is that if during construction you are guided by SNiP, then the heating power should not be laid on 1 kW per 10 m 2, as is commonly believed, but 25-30% less. And this is without taking into account household heat. However, it is not always possible to comply with the norms, and a detailed calculation heating system it is better to entrust qualified engineers.

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Conditionally, the heat loss of a private house can be divided into two groups:

Natural - heat loss through walls, windows or the roof of the building. These are losses that cannot be completely eliminated, but they can be minimized.
“Heat leaks” are additional heat losses that can most often be avoided. These are various visually imperceptible errors: hidden defects, installation errors, etc., which cannot be detected visually. For this, a thermal imager is used.

Below we bring to your attention 15 examples of such "leaks". it real problems, which are most often found in private homes. You will see what problems may be present in your home and what you should pay attention to.

Poor wall insulation

Insulation is not working as efficiently as it could. The thermogram shows that the temperature on the wall surface is unevenly distributed. That is, some sections of the wall heat up more than others (than brighter color, the higher the temperature). And this means that the heat loss is no stronger, which is wrong for an insulated wall.

In this case, bright areas are an example of ineffective insulation performance. It is likely that the foam in these places is damaged, poorly mounted or absent altogether. Therefore, after the building is insulated, it is important to make sure that the work is done efficiently and the insulation works effectively.

Poor roof insulation

The joint between wooden beam and mineral wool insufficiently compacted. Because of this, the insulation does not work effectively enough and provides additional heat loss through the roof that could have been avoided.

The radiator is clogged and gives off little heat

One of the reasons why it is cold in the house is that some sections of the radiator do not heat up. This can be due to several reasons: construction garbage, air accumulation or factory defects. But the result is the same - the radiator operates at half of its heating capacity and does not heat the room enough.

The radiator "warms" the street

Another example of inefficient radiator operation.

A radiator is installed inside the room, which heats up the wall very much. As a result, some of the heat generated by it goes to the street. In fact, the heat is used to heat the street.

Close installation of warm floors to the wall

The underfloor heating pipe is laid close to outside wall... The coolant in the system is cooled more intensively and has to be heated more often. The result is an increase in heating costs.

The influx of cold through the cracks in the windows

Often there are gaps in the windows that appear due to:

insufficient pressing of the window to the window frame;
wear of sealing gum;
poor-quality window installation.

Cold air constantly enters the room through the cracks, due to which drafts harmful to health are formed and the heat loss of the building increases.

The influx of cold through the cracks in the doors

Also, gaps appear in the balcony and entrance doors.

Cold bridges

Cold bridges are areas of a building with a lower thermal resistance in relation to other areas. That is, they let in more heat. For example, these are corners, concrete lintels over windows, junctions building structures etc.

What are the harmful bridges of cold:

Increase the heat loss of the building. Some bridges lose more heat, others less. It all depends on the characteristics of the building.
At certain conditions condensation falls out in them and a fungus appears. Such potentially hazardous areas must be prevented and eliminated in advance.

Room cooling through ventilation

Ventilation works "in reverse". Instead of removing air from the room to the outside, cold street air is drawn from the street into the room. This, as in the example with windows, creates drafts and cools the room. In the given example, the temperature of the air that enters the room is -2.5 degrees, at a room temperature of ~ 20-22 degrees.

Cold influx through the sunroof

And in this case, the cold enters the room through the hatch to the attic.

Cold supply through the air conditioner mounting hole

Cooling inflow into the room through the mounting hole of the air conditioner.

Heat loss through walls

The thermogram shows "heat bridges" associated with the use of materials with weaker resistance to heat transfer in the construction of the wall.

Heat loss through the foundation

Often when insulating the wall of a building, they forget about another important area - the foundation. Heat is also lost through the foundation of the building, especially if the building has basement or underfloor heating is installed inside.

Cold wall due to masonry joints

Masonry joints between bricks are numerous cold bridges and increase heat loss through walls. The example shows that the difference between the minimum temperature (masonry joint) and the maximum (brick) is almost 2 degrees. The thermal resistance of the wall is reduced.

Air leaks

Cold bridge and air flow under the ceiling. It occurs due to insufficient sealing and insulation of the joints between the roof, wall and floor slab. As a result, the room is additionally cooled and drafts appear.

Conclusion

All this typical mistakes, which are found in most private houses. Many of them can be easily removed and can significantly improve the energy condition of the building.

Let's list them again:

Heat leaks through walls;
Ineffective work of thermal insulation of walls and roof - hidden defects, poor-quality installation, damage, etc .;
Inflows of cold through the mounting holes of the air conditioner, cracks in windows and doors, ventilation;
Inefficient operation of radiators;
Cold bridges;
Influence of masonry joints.

15 hidden heat leaks in a private home you never knew existed

Warming and energy efficiency at home. Feasibility issues.

How to insulate a house is one of the main issues in construction.
Thinking about it is necessary when designing a future home.

First of all, you need the initial data:
1. The area of the planned house
2. Area and type of windows
3. Facade area
4. The area of the basement and the area of the surfaces of the basement floor.
5. Height of ceilings or internal volume of the house.
6. Type of ventilation in the house (natural, forced).

Let's take a house with an area of 170 m2 as a basis. with a ceiling height of 3 m, a glazing area of 30 m2 and an area of enclosing structures of 400 m2.

After receiving the initial data, you can proceed.

The main heat losses in the house I have divided into 3 categories:
1. Loss through windows.
2. Losses through enclosing structures (roof, walls, foundation).
3. Losses through ventilation.

When designing a house, it is necessary to strive for these three categories of heat losses to be approximately equal to each other, that is, the amount of heat power losses was equal for each category - 33.3%.
Why is that?
In this case, we will achieve a balance of heat losses and a further decrease in heat losses in any of the categories will be associated with high costs that do not lead to a noticeable effect.

1. Heat loss through windows.

Let us take losses through windows as a basis, since this category of heat losses is the most difficult. Losses through windows are very difficult to mitigate. The difference between various modern double-glazed windows is rather insignificant and ranges from 70 to 100 W / m2 with a delta (difference between indoor and outdoor air) of 50 gr.

Thus, knowing the area of the windows, we can find the maximum heat loss through them.
Suppose the area of the windows is 30 m2, then with an average glass unit (losses of 100 W / m2) the heat losses through the windows will be 3000 W.

Now we know what to strive for when designing thermal insulation of building envelopes and ventilation. To a loss of 3000 watts. And if we cope with this task, we will get the maximum heat loss at home - 3000 * 3 = 9000 W and build the most balanced house.

2. Heat losses through the building envelope

Heat losses through enclosing structures are equal to the sum of losses through the foundation, walls, roof.
For ease of calculation and comparison, we need to determine the heat loss through 1m2 of each of the enclosing structures and multiply by the corresponding area of the structure.
In technical documentation, they often talk about a parameter - resistance to heat transfer. Measured in ° С m2 / W.
Indicates the quantity square meters structure through which 1 W of power is lost with a difference between the internal and outside temperature in 1 gr.
According to modern standards, the resistance to heat transfer through the walls should not be less than 3.13 ° C · m2 / W, which corresponds to heat loss with a delta of 50 g.
50/3.13=15.97 W / m2.
Note how much the required wall loss is less than the window loss.
We can determine the maximum heat loss we need by dividing the heat loss through the windows by the area of the structures. In our case, 3000 W / 400 m2 = 7.5 W / m2.
Well, we will determine the required resistance to heat transfer 50 / 7.5 = 6.67 ° С m2 / W.
Based on this value, we must choose the thickness of the insulation of the enclosing structures.
Now it is no longer surprising that in search of a balance of heat losses, large developers multi-storey buildings a 150 mm thick insulation is used in combination with a 250 mm thick foam block wall.
Perhaps in your project you will not be able to equalize heat losses through windows with heat losses through enclosing structures, but you must strive for this.

3. Losses through ventilation.

Fresh air is necessary for the house and its owners no less than pure water and heat, therefore ventilation losses constitute a significant part of all heat losses in the house.
According to modern standards, it is necessary that the air in the living room is replaced at least once an hour, i.e. the amount of air to be replaced should be equal to the internal volume of the house. We will calculate the volume by multiplying the area of the premises by the height of the ceilings.
In our case, the house needs 500 m3 / hour of fresh outdoor air.
Heat losses with displaced air at a delta of 50 gr. can be found by the formula:
16.7 * V, where V is the amount of m3 of air per hour.
If we provide an inflow of cold air according to the necessary standards and thus displace warm air from the room, then we will receive heat losses equal to 16.7 * 500 = 8350 W, which does not fit into our balance.
We have 2 exits left. Either reduce air exchange, thus not meeting modern standards and forget about fresh and clean air, or somehow reduce heat losses.
Modern compulsory systems supply and exhaust ventilation are equipped with a recuperator (a device with which the heat of the air leaving the outside is transferred to the incoming air), thus increasing the ventilation efficiency.
The efficiency of recuperators is 70-80%.
Thus, by installing a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system with a recuperator in our house, we will be able to reduce heat losses to 2500 W.

Conclusions.
Calculation of the balance of heat losses is very important for the construction of an energy efficient modern home.
Heat loss in the house is mainly determined by the glazing area.
Without a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system with a recuperator, it is impossible to achieve a balance of heat losses in the house.

Any construction of a house begins with drawing up a project for a house. Already at this stage, you should think about insulating your home, because there are no buildings and houses with zero heat loss, which we pay for in the cold winter, during the heating season. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out insulation of the house outside and inside, taking into account the recommendations of the designers.

What and why to insulate?

During the construction of houses, many do not know, and do not even realize that in a built private house, during the heating season, up to 70% of the heat will go to heating the street.

Asking the question of savings family budget and the problem of home insulation, many are asking the question: what and how to insulate ?

This question is very easy to answer. It is enough to look at the thermal imager screen in winter, and you will immediately notice through which structural elements heat is emitted into the atmosphere.

If you do not have such a device, then it does not matter, below we will describe the statistical data that show where and in what percentage the heat leaves the house, as well as post a video of the thermal imager from a real project.

When insulating a house it is important to understand that heat escapes not only through ceilings and roofs, walls and foundations, but also through old windows and doors that will need to be replaced or insulated in the cold season.

Distribution of heat losses in the house

All experts recommend exercising insulation of private houses , apartments and industrial premises, not only outside, but also inside. If this is not done, then the "dear" to us warmth, in the cold season, will simply quickly disappear into nowhere.

Based on statistics and data from specialists, according to which, if the main heat leaks are identified and eliminated, then it will already be possible to save on heating in winter from 30% or more percent.

So, let's analyze in what directions, and in what percentage our heat leaves the house.

The biggest heat losses occur through:

Heat loss through the roof and ceilings

As you know, warm air always rises to the top, so it heats the non-insulated roof of the house and the ceilings, through which 25% of our heat escapes.

To produce house roof insulation and reduce heat loss to a minimum, you need to use insulation for the roof with a total thickness of 200mm to 400mm. The roof insulation technology of the house can be seen by enlarging the picture on the right.

Heat loss through walls

Many people will probably ask themselves the question: why is heat loss through the non-insulated walls of the house (about 35%), more than through the non-insulated roof of the house, because all the warm air rises to the top?

Everything is very simple. Firstly, the area of the walls is much larger than the area of the roof, and secondly, different materials have different thermal conductivity. Therefore, during construction country houses, first of all you need to take care of insulation of the walls of the house... For this, insulation materials for walls with a total thickness of 100 to 200 mm are suitable.

For correct insulation the walls of the house must have knowledge of technology and a special tool. Wall insulation technology brick house can be seen by enlarging the picture on the right.

Heat loss through floors

Oddly enough, non-insulated floors in the house take from 10 to 15% of the heat (the figure may be higher if your house is built on stilts). This is due to ventilation under the house in cold period winter.

To minimize heat loss through insulated floors in the house, you can use insulation for floors with a thickness of 50 to 100mm. This will be enough to walk barefoot on the floor in the cold winter season. The technology of warming the floors of the house can be seen by enlarging the picture on the right.

Heat loss through windows

Window- perhaps this is the very element that is almost impossible to insulate, because then the house will be like a dungeon. The only thing that can be done to reduce heat loss by up to 10% is to reduce the number of windows during design, insulate the slopes and install at least double-glazed windows.

Heat loss through doors

The last element in the structure of the house, through which up to 15% of the heat escapes, is the doors. This is due to the constant discovery entrance doors through which heat is constantly emitted. For reduction of heat loss through doors to a minimum, it is recommended to install double doors, seal them sealing rubber and install thermal curtains.

Advantages of an insulated house

Cost recovery in the first heating season
Savings on air conditioning and heating at home
Coolness indoors in summer
Excellent additional sound insulation of walls and ceilings of the ceiling and floor
Protection of house structures from destruction
Increased indoor living comfort
It will be possible to turn on the heating much later

The results of the insulation of a private house

It is very profitable to insulate the house , and in most cases it is even necessary, because this is due big amount advantages over non-insulated houses, and allows you to save your family budget.

Having carried out external and internal insulation at home, your private house will become like a thermos. Heat in winter and heat in summer will not escape from it, and all costs for complete insulation of the facade and roof, basement and foundation will pay off within one heating season.

For optimal choice insulation for the house , we recommend that you read our article: The main types of heaters for the house, which discusses in detail the main types of heaters used when insulating a private house outside and inside, their pros and cons.

Video: Real project - where does the heat go in the house

Good afternoon to all forum participants!

We recently acquired our first home. Apartment in panel house, 5th floor (last), not corner. The roof of the house was made a couple of years ago (slate). It's warm at the entrance, on the first floor even the battery hangs, always warm. The apartment now has very old windows, the cracks are partially taped with tape former owners... The balcony (in the only room) is "glazed" (in quotation marks because the shutter is missing).

We don't live in the apartment yet, but when we arrive there, in principle, it's warm, we want to take off the jacket right away. The walls are all dry, the ceiling is dry, the joints too. The thickness of the outer walls is approximately 35 cm, the outside is lined with rectangular yellow tiles. Electric heating is planned in the apartment, plastic windows.

This is the prehistory, the conditions, so to speak. And now a few questions for people who understand insulation. I would like to minimize heating costs, what is the best way to do this initially, so that later you do not regret the effort, time and money spent, or, if you ask this question differently: what needs to be done to reduce the heat loss of the apartment?

From what I read here, I realized that there is no need to take risks with the insulation of the apartment from the inside. However, here, basically, it comes about the lightening of the outer walls, which, by all means, are in contact with the street.

Here are my thoughts, again from what I read and knew before:

Because warm air goes up, and cold air goes down:
- insulate the floor. Possible variant: a primer, then a film (vapor barrier), then a thin roll of foam and svehu OSB boards;
- make the ceiling from the roof side. The only question is how and what?
Because I want to keep the room warm for longer:
- glue the wall that is adjacent to my neighbors with the same thin roll foam (I do not know the gluing technology, so if it can be done at all, indicate / give a link / poke your nose what and how);
- how to insulate the wall in the bathroom (in contact with the neighbor's bathroom) and the wall that goes into the entrance? As for the bathroom, I do not have my own options at all, tk. there will be a tile on top and I don't know how to do it. As for the wall in the entrance - I have the same foam.
The old balcony will be removed completely, so here I also want to hear recommendations for rebuilding it. I plan an iron frame, the bottom (facade) is made of ondulin (well, I like it very, very much))). But inside - here the question is, how to make sure that vegetables can be stored there (in terms of temperature and humidity), etc.?

There are several wishes, so to speak, additional conditions:

Take away as little as possible an already small area;
It is possible to improve sound insulation: it will be easier for neighbors, and the music will sound better;
I have no skills in such work, but I think that my hands still grow from my shoulders, so I want to do it myself.

I am waiting for advice knowledgeable people... Thanks in advance.