How to plaster penoplex outside. Secrets of plastering foam technology and applicable mixtures. Reinforcement of foam insulation

The heat-insulating material penoplex has sufficiently high characteristics and has a number of advantages over many other heat insulators, as a result of which it received in recent times wide use. However, its use for external insulation of housing is associated with some difficulties and has a number of important nuances.

Therefore, in this article, I decided to tell you in detail how to properly insulate a house from the outside with foam plastic and avoid the mistakes that beginners often make.

A few words about extruded polystyrene foam

Before proceeding to the technology of external insulation of the house, let's consider what a penoplex is. I must say right away that it is more correct to call this material extruded polystyrene foam, since Penoplex is the name of the manufacturing company this insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foam is made from regular expanded polystyrene (styrofoam). As a result of a special heat treatment, it acquires higher, and with them, properties that affect the installation technology and the scope of the material.

These properties primarily include:

low level of moisture absorption;
smooth structure.

On the one hand, this allows the material to be used in adverse operating conditions, in particular, it can be used for facade insulation. But, on the other hand, penoplex has poor adhesion. Therefore, it is not even a material, and even more so it is not intended for a “wet” finish.

The most common mistake of beginners is that when insulating the facade, they work with foam plastic in the same way as with ordinary polystyrene foam. Some building resources “help” in this, for which unfortunate specialists write articles. The result of this approach is clearly visible in the photo below.

However, this does not mean that the insulation of the facade in a “wet” way using foam plastic will have to be abandoned. The technology, which I will discuss below, will allow you to perform a reliable and durable finish on top of this insulation.

For beginners, the question probably arises, why use foam plastic if it can be replaced with foam plastic, which is cheaper and has good adhesion?

The fact is that extruded polystyrene foam has several important advantages over polystyrene foam:

has a higher strength, respectively, the facade finish is more durable;
is a vapor-permeable material;
thermal conductivity is lower than that of foam.

Therefore, it makes sense to use penoplex for a “wet” facade finish. As for the "dry" insulation, which is used for hinged facade, then this procedure practically does not contain any features.

Below I will tell you in detail how to insulate the walls from the outside with foam plastic in both ways.

Wet facade installation

First of all, we will consider how to perform foam insulation using the “wet facade” technology, since it is it that causes the most questions and disputes. The advantage of this technology is that it can be used not only for thermal insulation of houses, but also for apartments (for this, you need to obtain the appropriate permit).

In addition, this solution allows you to give the building a respectable appearance. The only thing I note is that for a number of reasons this technology should not be used for thermal insulation. wooden houses.

The warming process consists of several stages:

Preparation of materials

First of all, you need to prepare the materials. At this stage, it is extremely important to choose the right foam adhesive. I recommend using a special foam adhesive for these purposes, for example, FastFix from the same Penoplex.

In addition to glue, you also need to prepare some other materials:

Ceresit CT83 glue, which will be used for plastering;
fiberglass reinforcing mesh for outdoor work;
perforated corners;
facade decorative plaster;
facade paint;
adhesive primer;
deep penetration primer.

The thickness of the foam for facade insulation should be at least 5 cm. But, it is advisable to lay the plates in two layers so that the thickness of the insulation is 10 cm.

After preparing all these materials, you can get to work.

Wall preparation

So, before you sheathe the walls with foam, you need to prepare them.

This work is carried out as follows:

dismantle from the walls all elements that may interfere with the finish - visors, antennas, etc .;
further, it is necessary to provide a reliable foundation, i.e. if you notice, for example, flaking areas old plaster, you need to get rid of them;
after that, wipe the facade with a damp cloth or vacuum it so that there is no dust on the surface;
now the surface of the walls needs to be primed with a deep penetration facade primer. It is most convenient to carry out this work with a paint roller, you can also use a brush.

The primer must be applied in a uniform thin layer. After drying the walls, be sure to repeat the procedure..

This completes the preparation process.

Gluing foam

Now you can start pasting the facade with foam.

The instructions for doing this work look like this:

first of all, it is desirable to fix the starting profile from below along the perimeter of the facade, which will allow you to align the bottom row of insulation. The installation of the profile is carried out using dowel nails. Wherein it is extremely important to correctly position the profile, therefore, in the process, use the level;

after that, the adhesive foam is applied to the foam around the perimeter and center of the plate, as shown in the photo above. Moreover, in the center it is desirable to apply even a few strips of foam;
now you need to glue the plate to the wall. Work starts from the corner - insert the plate into the guide profile and lightly press it against the wall. Be sure to check the position of the heater with a level;
then, according to this principle, the entire first row is glued. Try to place the plates as close to each other as possible so that there are no gaps;
then the second row is glued. It must be mounted with an offset, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern, and with dressing of corners;

after all the walls are covered with insulation from top to bottom, it is necessary to install the foam on the slopes. To do this, cut the slabs into panels of the required width and paste them over the window openings and;
now it is necessary to additionally fix the plates of extruded polystyrene foam with special dowels, which are popularly called "umbrellas" or "fungi". To install the dowel, it is necessary to drill a hole in the wall directly through the insulation. The hole should correspond to the dowel in diameter, while the length should be 5-10 mm longer.

As for the location of the dowels, it is advisable to install them in the corners at the joints so that one hat fixes several plates at once, in addition, one or two dowels should be placed in the center. Keep in mind that the hats must be recessed.

As for the slopes, it is not necessary to fix them with dowels.

For full-fledged external insulation of the house, it is desirable to perform thermal insulation of the foundation. The technology is quite simple - the foundation is excavated, cleaned of dirt, then pasted over with foam plastic (can be glued on the bridge), and then buried.

This completes the process of pasting the facade.

Surface preparation

Now it is extremely important with your own hands to properly prepare the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam for further finishing.

This operation is performed as follows:

first of all, it is necessary to make the surface of the penoplex rough. To do this, rub it with a metal brush, jointer with sandpaper or a special foam grater. It is also possible to treat the surface with a spiked roller;
after the surface of the insulation becomes rough, the facade should be treated with an adhesive primer, which is applied according to the scheme described above;

then it is necessary to fill the gaps between the plates with the same foam with which the foam was glued to the wall;
further, perforated aluminum corners must be glued to all external corners, including slopes, using Ceresit CT 83 glue or its equivalent. When installing the corners, be sure to use a level so that the corners are strictly horizontal or vertical.

After such preparation, you can proceed to reinforcement.

Reinforcement

Finishing foam from the outside begins with reinforcement, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

start reinforcing with slopes. To do this, first cut the grid according to the size of the slopes so that it is located with a twist at the corners;
dilute Ceresit CT 83 glue in water;
then apply glue 4-5 mm thick on the slope;
on the surface treated with glue, swipe with a notched trowel;
then a mesh should be attached to the slope and drawn over its surface with a spatula. As a result, the canvas should be completely immersed in the glue;
the walls of the facade are reinforced in the same way. Do not forget that the canvases should overlap each other by 10 cm;
after the surface dries, apply another layer of glue, while trying to level the walls as much as possible.

This completes the surface reinforcement.

decorative trim

Now you can start decorative trim, which is carried out as follows:

treat the facade with a primer according to the scheme described above;
then the surface is covered with decorative plaster. The composition is diluted in water according to the instructions on the package and applied in an even thin layer;

after 5-7 minutes, when the decorative plaster begins to set, its surface is rubbed with a plaster grinder. To do this, you should make reciprocating or circular movements;
after the decorative plaster has dried, the facade must be painted using a paint roller. Let me remind you that the paint is applied in two layers. In order for the coating to look neat, each layer must be applied evenly and without streaks.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of installing a wet facade.

hinged facade

An equally common technology for insulating houses with foam plastic is a hinged facade.

It has some important advantages over the "wet facade":

missing during installation wet work, so you can engage in warming at any time of the year;
available big choice facade finishing materials;
finish is stronger and more durable.

As mentioned above, a “wet facade” using foam plastic is not suitable for wooden houses. This raises the question - is it possible to insulate wooden house penoplex? I must say right away that such a finish is allowed, however, it also has its own subtleties, which we will discuss below.

The technology for arranging a hinged facade also consists of several stages:

Preparation of materials

To insulate a house in this way, you will need the following materials:

wooden slats or metal profiles and brackets;
vapor barrier film;
glue foam;
protective impregnation for wood;
finishing material - lining, vinyl siding, etc.

Wall preparation

If the walls of the house are made of bricks, blocks or other similar materials preparation is carried out according to the scheme described above.

If the walls are wooden, built of timber or logs, the preparation is carried out as follows:

the walls must be wiped from dust and dirt, and then treated with a protective impregnation;
then it is necessary to insulate interventional gaps by filling them with any suitable heat-insulating material .

Now the walls are ready for insulation.

Frame installation and wall insulation

There are several ways to build a frame.

As an example, I will tell you how to make a structure on brackets:

first of all, you need to mark the location of the racks in the form of vertical lines. Optimal distance between them is 50 cm;
then, on the marked lines, brackets are also attached to the wall with a vertical step of 50 cm. To fix them, you can use self-tapping screws or dowel-nails;

after that, we sheathe the walls with penoplex, which is strung on brackets, as in the photo above. I must say that it is not necessary to use glue in this case, the only thing is that it is advisable to grab each plate with at least one dowel;
if there is insulation wooden house foam, it is not necessary to fill the gaps with foam, as this will improve the vapor permeability of the insulation, which is important for wooden walls. If the walls are brick or other material, the gaps should be filled with foam;
if the house is wooden, the surface of the insulation must be closed vapor barrier film so that moisture does not enter the walls through the cracks. You can grab the vapor barrier with dowels-umbrellas;

further in the brackets are fixed metal racks or wooden bars. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that they are all installed in the same vertical plane..

This completes the insulation and installation of the frame. I must say that in the case of insulating a wooden house, you can first sheathe the walls with extruded polystyrene foam, and then attach the laths of the crate to them with self-tapping screws directly through the insulation.

Finishing

The final stage is the finish, which does not contain any features, so let's briefly consider this procedure using the example of installing vinyl siding:

along the perimeter of the house, a starting profile is installed in a horizontal position;
then corner profiles are installed on the outer and inner corners;
then the first row of vinyl siding is mounted, which is connected with a hook from the bottom to the hook of the starting profile, and from above is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws;

the second row from below clings to the hook of the first row, and from above it is fixed in the same way with self-tapping screws. According to this principle, the entire frame is sheathed;
before installation last row the installation of the finishing profile is carried out, after which the top row is connected to the penultimate one and refueled into the profile;
at the end of the work, additional elements are installed - slopes, ebbs, etc.

The sheathing of the frame and clapboard will be done in approximately the same way, the only thing is that the boards are interconnected using a spike / groove locking connection. In addition, the corner plates are installed after the sheathing of the frame, and not before, as is the case with vinyl siding and other similar materials.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that foam plastic is not a facade heat-insulating material, it can be used to insulate walls with high quality even in a “wet” way. However, for this it is necessary to observe all the subtleties of this work, which I described above. Otherwise, you will waste your time, money and your own strength.

I recommend watching the video in this article, which clearly shows how the facade is insulated with foam plastic. If any of your questions remain unanswered, feel free to ask questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

Since plaster is still one of the most popular ways finishing walls and ceilings, then and application this method applying a decorative and protective layer on a reinforced foam plastic is quite justified. Despite a certain roughness of the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam boards, for a more reliable fixation of the layer of hardened building mix- a mesh is used for plastering foam. A properly reinforced mesh for foam plastic allows you to provide protection to the heat-insulating material and a reliable lining layer for finishing plaster.

Why is foam reinforcement needed?

A well-reinforced layer of foam insulation, made in compliance with all installation rules, without the use of metal fasteners, creates reliable thermal protection of a building or structure. But the same insulation itself needs protection from the destructive effects of a number natural factors. No, he is not afraid of cold or rain. But the long-term impact sun rays can destroy thermal protection in one season.

The use of plastering the surface of foam plastic, followed by strengthening the protective finishing layer (siding, for example) is quite justified, but significantly increases the cost of work. The created reinforced mesh for foam plastic plastering reliably performs protective functions, preventing premature destruction of the foamed polystyrene obtained by extrusion. How can it protect against all-penetrating ultraviolet rays?

This task is perfectly handled by a reinforced layer, which is carried out over the entire outer surface of the reinforced insulation. This layer consists of a special adhesive and a facade mesh embedded in it. It withstands the stresses that occur on the insulated surface when the temperature changes.

The device of the reinforcing layer on the fixed foam has its own characteristics:

mesh strips are overlapped (up to 10 cm) with horizontal and vertical connection;
the strip should be completely immersed in the adhesive layer, but not more than half of its thickness;
the reinforced layer made on the reinforced insulating material should not be thicker than 3 mm.

For reliable protection structural elements subjected to the greatest mechanical loads (basement and walls of the first floor, balconies and terraces) - it is recommended to strengthen them with a double layer. When strengthening the reinforcing element at the corners of the house, it wraps around the corner of the building (by 15 cm).

Reinforcement of foam insulation

A completely natural question arises: “Having fixed the penoplex on the wall - how to fix the mesh?” Based on the basic requirement of thermal insulation systems, the use of metal fasteners is categorically contraindicated, since the “cold bridges” created in this case will turn all efforts into a simple waste of money, time and effort. What to do? How is the mesh fastened to the foam, if the metal is contraindicated?

In the event that the thermal protection layer is mounted on a surface where structural movements are not expected, the mesh for foam plastic plaster is fastened with an adhesive mixture (it is embedded in the adhesive layer, and if necessary, a second layer is made). If the foam mesh is attached to the insulating material in those places where movement is expected, plastic dowels (fungi) cannot be dispensed with, or thermal panels with a ready-made polymer-cement coating must be used.

An approximate technology for creating a reinforced layer for the subsequent application of plaster is as follows:

On the surface of foam plex with a width of 1 meter (standard width of the facade mesh) smooth side trowel is applied, which is distributed evenly with a notched trowel.
The reinforcing element is applied to a fresh layer of glue and pressed into the adhesive layer with a smooth spatula (grater).
Plastering is carried out only after the final drying of the reinforced layer.

In the process of work, the question may arise: “If foam plastic was used to insulate the external slopes, how to fix the mesh and how to achieve a flat vertical surface for the subsequent application of plaster?”. Insulation of window slopes and doorways is done as follows:

Before fixing the insulation on the opening, it is necessary to stick the facade mesh, wrapping it on the wall by 15 cm.
Penoplex is attached to the glued mesh so that it protrudes from the wall by the thickness of the insulation plus 3 mm (the thickness of the reinforced layer).
They are laid under the foam wooden planks creating an expansion joint.
The mesh for subsequent plastering is glued to the insulation (be sure to wrap and glue at least 15 cm to the wall).
Before plastering - the corners are ground sandpaper or a special grater, which allows you to create an even layer of plaster.

Thermal panels with polymer cement plaster

It would seem that what is easier, having strengthened the penoplex - plastering on the grid can be performed at any free time. Unfortunately, the creation of a high-quality and reliable reinforced layer requires a certain temperature, since complete drying of the adhesive mixture is necessary. But do not stop the work in the cold season, especially since the installation of penoplex can be performed at any time of the year. It is for these purposes that the manufacturer created thermopanels with a polymer-cement coating (foam with a reinforced mesh, which is already plastered with a special polymer-cement composition).

Such building panels, having all the characteristics of a high-quality insulation, allow you to quickly install foam plastic with a plaster mesh, regardless of the weather. This significantly reduces the time of work, and applying the final layer of plaster is not difficult, since there is a prepared surface. In addition, factory-prepared panel data is used to create decorative columns, arches and other finishing works. Thermal panels offered by PENOPLEX SPb LLC are of high quality and reliable.

Penoplex refers to a new formation of a heat insulator, presented in the form of a plate of extruded polystyrene foam. Its main difference from conventional PPS is its higher density, strength and fire resistance. Its excellent thermal insulation properties can significantly save on space heating. In this article we will talk in more detail about the decoration of walls with foam plaster.

Pros and cons of facade insulation with foam plastic

The main advantages of the material:

low thermal conductivity (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.03 W/mºK)
resistance to compression and the ability to withstand mechanical loads, due to the homogeneous structure of the material, where evenly spaced pores increase the strength of the heat insulator;
low water absorption (0.2 - 0.4% of the volume in 24 hours when fully immersed);
withstands a wide temperature range: from -50 to +75 degrees;
resistance to mold and decay;
resistance to fire;
good soundproofing qualities;
light weight of the material - easy transportation;
ease of installation, installation of plates is possible independently by one person. Standard sizes foam plastic: width 600 mm, length 1200 mm, thickness from 20 to 100 mm;
versatility, the ability to insulate any building elements: walls, basement, foundation, roof, floor;
safe, does not emit toxic substances;
long service life, subject to correct use not less than 50 years old.

The disadvantages of the material include:

low vapor permeability (0.007-0.008 mg/m h Pa). When using the material indoors, ensure good ventilation to prevent condensation and mold. It is also impossible to insulate aerated concrete without internal vapor barrier of the walls.
high price - about twice as expensive as foam plastic and mineral wool.

Due to its heat-saving qualities and ease of installation, foam plastic has become widespread and is increasingly being used to insulate buildings, replacing conventional foam.

Can it be plastered?

Despite its moisture resistance, penoplex must be closed from atmospheric precipitation. In addition, it is necessary to create an attractive appearance building. Indoors, PVC and MDF panels are suitable for finishing this insulation. Outside the house, you can organize a ventilated facade of siding or wall panels.

It is possible to plaster penoplex both indoors and outdoors. This will be a universal finishing option. How to do this, and what is required for work, we will consider below.

Which mixture is best?

When choosing a plaster, one should take into account its features and climate conditions. Since the plaster must protect the insulation from mechanical, chemical and climatic factors, guarantee fire safety, increase heat and sound insulation characteristics, smooth out the unevenness of the base, giving the room an impeccable appearance.

There are such types of plaster mixes:

Mineral. A mixture based on cement, sand, as well as plasticizers and adhesive additives. This is a good choice for use as a base coat for painting or decorative plaster . The solution is easy to apply, resistant to fire, moisture and mold. At the same time, it is inexpensive.
Acrylic. Presented as a solution based on acrylic resins with mineral additives and dyes. Main advantages: a rich range of colors and textures, elasticity, strength, resistance to precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. Creates a dense moisture-proof film.
Silicone. Differs in high elasticity and durability. A versatile, high performance mix with a rich color palette and available as a ready-to-use mortar. The disadvantage is the high cost of the material.
silicate mixture based on liquid glass, protects well from frost, winds, humidity and temperature extremes. The composition has good vapor permeability, therefore it maintains a comfortable indoor climate. In work, it requires efficiency, because it quickly seizes.
Silicate-silicone plaster contains a water-repellent additive, mineral fillers and coloring pigments. To technical specifications includes increased mechanical resistance and elasticity, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and good adhesion to the surface.

Plastering foam

Let's summarize which of the plasters is better. To create protection against mechanical damage and for additional thermal insulation of the building, cement-sand-based plaster is suitable. But the plastered surface will be unattractive. Therefore, it will be necessary to additionally paint the facade or apply a layer of decorative plastering.

Of the above compositions, silicone will be the most durable, but also the most expensive. When choosing textures and colors crucial will only have the opinion of the customer, which finish is closer to him: “bark beetle”, “fur coat”, stone imitation or other types.

How to plaster outside and inside the room: a step-by-step instruction

The plastering process is not particularly difficult, but must be carried out in compliance with the technology.

To work, you will need tools:

In this case, when painting, do not use paints with solvents. They will corrode the styrofoam. Acrylic or water-based formulations are well suited.

Let's summarize. Plastering foam plastic does not require much experience or special skills. But you need to remember about the use of reinforcing mesh and adhesive plaster solutions. simple technology gives great opportunities for decorating walls and allows you to create a unique look for warm facades .

We hope this article was helpful to you. Leave your feedback and questions in the comments below.

Facade Technology of facade plastering on expanded polystyrene: we close the reinforced insulation with an adhesive mixture and cement mortar

The most popular thermal insulation material is foam. It has many advantages: strength and high density. In addition, it absorbs moisture well.

Used for wall and floor insulation country houses. The material has high properties. In this article, we will tell you about the benefits and how to plaster penoplex.

Penoplex is effective material, which is used for warming rooms, attics and balconies.

Required fixtures and materials

In order to make foam plastering, you will need putty and plaster mix. When working, you will use a spatula, a grater (wooden or plastic), special scissors, a reinforcing mesh, a bucket, gloves, a roller and a sponge.

Where to begin?

Any building process starts with preparation.

Cleaning and leveling walls.
Penoplex fasteners
Mesh installation.
Preparation of the reinforcement layer.
Grout.
Primer
Fine finishing with decorative plaster.

Penoplex not only has the properties of thermal insulation, but also suppresses noise. This photo shows material that has not yet been plastered.

Solution preparation

For its application to penoplex, professionals advise using special mixtures. For wall decoration, the consumption is approximately 6 kg per square meter and 4 kg for gluing the mesh. When kneading, be sure to follow the instructions printed on the package.

There is one important point: for sticking plaster mesh it is necessary to create a consistency slightly thinner than indicated by the manufacturer. To level the layer, it is necessary to dilute the mixture as much as possible so that it literally flows off the spatula.

Penoplex is a fairly effective material that provides not only thermal insulation, but does not transmit noise. Among its main advantages is easy installation, which you can do yourself. First, the foam must be fixed with glue, and then secured with additional fasteners.

In the case of poor-quality work, the material may be deformed as a result of temperature changes.

Sticking plaster mesh

In order for the plaster to adhere tightly to the foam, it is necessary to install a special mesh for facade works. Its density is from 140 to 170 g/m2.

The denser the mesh, the smoother the plaster layer will be.

It should be noted that work begins with slopes, corners and doorways. First you need to cut the strip along the length of the slope. Then bend in the middle so that when removed, a “rib” remains on it. Spatula should be applied universal mix to the surface, and then smooth it from the corner down. After you completely glue the corners with a special mesh, you need to start processing the walls. To do this, it is necessary to cut the mesh one meter and apply with a spatula. Then smooth from top to bottom from the center.

It should be noted that the mesh must completely enter the mixture. Add a little more mixture to close the grid. After you need to wipe the grid. This can be done with a plastic grater. Grouting is carried out when the mixture is completely dry. This will take several hours. If it's cloudy outside, wait about a day.

How to plaster penoplex: level the surface

You can level the surface with a conventional spatula. The mixture must be applied to the joints. Next, you need to grout the leveling layer. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the work should be carried out until the maximum effect is obtained, since you will apply textured or decorative plaster on this surface.

Primer layer. It is necessary in order for the final finish to hold firmly. You can use a primer with the addition of quartz grains. After processing, decorative plaster must be applied to the penoplex. After that, you can proceed to the final finishing of the insulated cottage.

final touch

After the work done, it is necessary to proceed to the final finishing. To do this, you need decorative plaster. base layer should be applied evenly over the entire area of the wall. The thickness directly depends on the impurities (mineral grains) in the plaster. It should be remembered that the larger they are, the thicker the layer will be.

After the work done, it is necessary to apply another layer and sand the surface. After processing with plaster, it is necessary to allow the layer to dry thoroughly and cover with a protective layer.

Plastering foam plastic is not a complicated process that you can do yourself. The main thing is to properly fix the material, otherwise the structure may be deformed. It is best to ask a professional for help on initial stage work, and then act alone.

This is how the foam finish looks from the outside. The process does not take much time, and the result is effective.

Decor

Do you want to beautifully decorate the wall after you have learned how to plaster penoplex? There are many on the market today variety of materials designed for wall decoration, creating a relief texture or mosaic.

Four main types should be noted:

Paint with the addition of artificial latex. After the walls are dry, light scuffs will appear on them. It looks very nice and creates an antique effect.
A crumb that is applied to the glue. The cover is called flock.
Imitation marble. For the production of such plaster, marble flour is used. She looks amazing.
Structural plaster. It is based on small wood fibers, granules and small lumps. After drying, it becomes granular.

You can choose any option to your taste. Artistic plaster There are three varieties: polymer, silicone and mineral. Moisture-resistant coatings are used mainly in indoor pools and bathrooms. It is very important to choose the right foam plaster materials. To do this, you must first study the technique of applying plaster and familiarize yourself with its composition.

Penoplex is suitable for finishing cottages and houses inside and out. Here you see a fully finished country house.

Everyone who decides to insulate the house with penoplex will face the question: what to do next? How and how to treat the surface of the insulation, so that it is beautiful, reliable, and durable. not produced every year.

The answer is as simple as the question: the surface of the foam must be plastered. This type of coating is simple to perform and closes the insulation from the outside from atmospheric influences. The plastering technique in no way depends on what types of foam were used to insulate the walls.

Plastering technology

Consider the stages of applying plaster:

Choice of plaster. The main condition for choosing a plaster will be its specialization for application to polystyrene surfaces.

Note: all mixtures and substances (starting, finishing, decorative, adhesives, primers, paints) must be from one manufacturer, and it is better to choose a universal plaster. She can also glue a sheet of foam plastic to the wall, and make protective covering top of the heater.

Mesh selection. After you have decided on the choice of plaster mixture, you need to purchase a reinforcing mesh. It must be resistant to alkalis (since the predominant amount of plaster is cement) and have high density. But here is a double-edged sword: the stiffer the mesh, the better it will reinforce the plaster, but it will be more difficult to adjust it in the corners.
Mesh attachment. The solution of the plaster mixture is prepared strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
The mesh begins to be fixed from the corners, door and window slopes 30-cm strips, which are first folded in the middle, and then applied with a fold line to an already plastered (2-3 mm thick) face and smoothed with a spatula to the sides. The ends of the mesh remain unglued.

When all corners and slopes are reinforced and lightly plastered, they begin to fasten the mesh to the wall in strips no wider than one meter, since the plaster solution dries very quickly.
As well as when reinforcing corners, first a layer of the mixture is applied up to 3 mm thick on the wall, then the mesh is pressed a little with a spatula into the plaster layer, and the top is slightly covered with mortar.
The joints are fastened with an overlap. At the end of the strip, the mesh is not attached, leaving it to connect with the next run.

Grid grout. The grid is fixed. The plaster surface is dry. This is required, depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, from several hours to one day. Now it must be rubbed in a circular motion with a plastic float with an emery cloth.
Wall alignment. Used universal plaster. With a wide spatula, on which the mixture is applied, a solution is applied to the wall with a layer of about 3 mm. This is not difficult, the main thing is that the joints of the leveling layer do not coincide with the joints of the grid.

This work is carried out a day later, but not later than 4 days after alignment. The technique is the same as when grouting the mesh, but more responsible, since after it there will be only a thin finishing layer.
Surface priming. This type of work will have nuances depending on what type of finish is planned. If the final layer is paint, then it will be necessary to prime with such a liquid, after which the surface will be smooth and not have smudges.
If the decorative layer is plaster (such as bark beetle or other design), then the primer should have quartz grains. It is from this component that the durability of the decor will depend.

Finishing (decorative) plaster. If all the previous stages of work are performed with high quality, then applying the finishing layer will not be difficult.
Finishing begins with the application of a layer of plaster with a spatula (than larger size mineral grain in the mixture, the thicker the layer can be laid). Then a pattern is made. To do this, use a large-pored sponge, special spatula or a special grater, depending on what pattern you want to get.
After the finish coat has dried, it can be painted or treated with a transparent protective agent.