People who own their own home are rarely indifferent to its appearance. This is especially true for wooden houses. Although a house built of high-quality timber can stand for hundreds of years without any protection, its facades darken over time and the building "grows old" right before our eyes, taking on the appearance of a village hut.

How can these undesirable consequences be prevented? The simplest and most natural option is to decorate the outer walls of the building with a facade board.

In a broad sense, a facade board can be called any molded material used for facing facades.

There are a lot of such materials:

• lining;
• block house;
• imitation of a bar;
• planken;
• WPC composite board;
• vinyl siding;
• metal siding;
• fiber cement siding.

The last three varieties are mainly used for cladding frame houses and they are used not only to give the facade of the house an aesthetic appearance, but also as a means of protecting the insulation (located on the outside of the walls) from the effects of adverse atmospheric factors.

The wood panels listed above will do well with these tasks. To protect log and timber walls that do not need additional insulation, a wooden facade board is most often used. It is a material related to the main material of the walls and, due to its ability to "breathe", does not interfere with their ventilation, which is important for the preservation of any wooden structures.

Therefore, in this article we will consider precisely wooden facade materials.

Lining, block house and imitation of a bar

These are materials from the same line, differing from each other exclusively in cross-sectional shape and thickness.

Lining is a long and well-known type of facade cladding, familiar to almost everyone. It is a 12 - 20 mm thick board planed on one side, depending on the profile and purpose. The lining board is equipped on one side with a groove, and on the other with a spike, which allow to tightly connect adjacent boards, giving the sheathing some kind of tightness.

Modern types of panels of this type can have a different profile and, when cladding, create surfaces from almost smooth to pronouncedly embossed.

A block house is the same lining, only with a rounded front surface, which, when trimmed, creates a very realistic impression that you are facing a wall made of round logs.

Imitation of a bar - this profile is formed by chamfering along the long side of the board, which, when mounted on a surface, creates the appearance of a wall folded from a bar. Double-sided lining is a material planed on both sides and is mainly used not for wall cladding, but for creating thin wooden partitions. The advantages and disadvantages of the lining are determined by the material from which it is made - wood.

The advantages of the material include the following:

• environmental friendliness of the material;
• high heat-insulating and sound-insulating characteristics;
• aesthetic appearance due to woody texture;
• ease of installation;
• the possibility of repeated tinting of the facade in the desired color;
• relatively low cost.

The disadvantages are the same as for the source material:

• high flammability, which is reduced by regular processing of the material with fire retardants;
• low biological resistance - a predisposition to the formation of rot and damage by pests - is leveled by treatment with antiseptics;
• high water absorption, which can be reduced by applying varnish, but this reduces the environmental friendliness of the material and its ability to air exchange;
• dense cladding can warp due to exposure to moisture and temperature changes, which spoils the appearance of the facade.

Currently, ordinary flat paneling is mainly used for sheathing surfaces inside the house - it is here that there are the most favorable conditions for its long-term use.

A big drawback of all grooved materials (including lining) is the impossibility of quickly replacing damaged elements.

In order to remove the defective board, you will have to disassemble a significant part of the cladding.

A fairly new material in our market. It is a wooden board planed from all sides, bevelled at all corners. As a result, the sheathing has rounded edges.

Planken of various types is on sale.

But there are two main varieties:

• straight line - has a rectangular section;
• oblique - has beveled sides of the board.

Fastening of the plank is carried out on the frame and is fundamentally different from the installation of the lining. In this case, adjacent planks are placed at a distance of 2-5 mm from each other. Thus, the linear expansion of one element does not entail any consequences for the neighboring ones. In addition, a damaged board can be easily removed and replaced with a new one.

When using a straight plank, small gaps are formed on the facade, which contribute to good ventilation of the material of the main walls. The slanting plank is also mounted with a gap, but due to the beveled edge of the slots, you cannot see it, although the functionality of such a cladding is no worse.

Planken, like lining, is made from various types of wood, which affects both its appearance and cost.

Optimal for our climatic conditions is larch planken, which resists the adverse effects of the atmosphere well.

It is somewhat more expensive than pine and spruce, but will last longer.

Currently, impregnated planken can be found on sale. It is obtained by impregnating elements in an autoclave. Basically for this they use cheaper pine wood, which has increased permeability and therefore lends itself well to impregnation.

It has advantages over the usual one:

• the cost of the impregnated material is lower than that of larch (not to mention more expensive types of wood);
• it does not require additional treatment with protective impregnations;
• the material does not smell, does not get dirty and is completely safe for people and animals;
• perfectly resists fungus, mold and rot.

As a facade cladding, this material meets the main requirement - an optimal ratio of price and quality. Unlike lining, this material is more convenient to install and operate. In addition, it can be used to give facades a noble look.

It is a product of high technology and is a composition that includes wood flour and thermoplastic polymer in various ratios.

WPC, containing a large amount of wood flour (70% or more), is less resistant to moisture and more fragile. If the polymer contains more than wood, then the product resembles plastic. Therefore, the ratio of 1: 1 is considered the most successful - it provides the product with a natural look and properties of polymers.

WPC is used mainly for finishing objects that are actively exposed to atmospheric influences - moisture, sun, temperature fluctuations.

The material has the following positive qualities:

• high resistance to abrasion, scratches;
• UV resistance - the cladding practically does not fade;
• moisture resistance - the cladding does not absorb moisture. does not shrink, does not change linear dimensions;
• the ability to operate in a wide temperature range: from -50 to +70 degrees;
• not susceptible to pests and mold;
• durable - withstands high loads and is not afraid of blows;
• does not require treatment with antiseptics and special care;
• resistant to aggressive substances;
• high fire resistance, does not support combustion;

• easy to install;
• environmentally friendly;
• in terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to natural wood;
• aesthetic - has many options for texture and color.

A significant drawback of the material is its high cost.

Sometimes sellers offer thermal boards as cladding. In fact, this is not any separate material, but a method of processing wood in order to give it special durability and strength.

Most often, larch wood is used for the manufacture of thermal boards, which is subjected to processing at high temperatures. The texture of the wood is completely preserved.

But at the same time, it acquires previously unusual characteristics:

• high density;
• resistance to moisture;
• lack of thermal expansion and swelling;
• the possibility of using without additional treatment with protective impregnations.

Wood processing takes place in a special chamber with a gradual increase in temperature, which avoids deformation of the wood and ensures its uniform drying. Next, firing is performed, during which the internal stress of the fibers of the material is removed and it solidifies.

Any of the listed types of facade cladding can be made of such material. But it will cost several times more than usual. Therefore, deciding to spend money on such material, buy it in a safe place, otherwise you can purchase the most ordinary cladding (disguised as thermal wood), but for a lot of money.

Thus, if it is necessary to install the exterior cladding of the house, the choice of material must be approached seriously and responsibly. Here, unreasonable savings can result in high costs for maintaining the appearance of facades in decent condition.

Quite often I receive letters from you, my friends, in which you ask a lot of questions, ask for help, advice. Sometimes I ask myself - what's wrong with a blog? Why am I not being asked questions directly in the topics?

Are you shy? Or inconvenient? Or ... or is there something really wrong - only now I don't know about it and don't guess?
Friends, are you comfortable here? cosy? is everything clear? ... otherwise I'm seriously worried ...

The blog is almost 4 years old (there will be a celebration in a month), and it's like my second home ... I come here, make myself comfortable in my big leather armchair, put a cup of tea or coffee ... something delicious and start writing.
And I really want you to be also comfortable here and cozy. And in spite of everything - I love to read your letters.

So why am I all this ... Besides, I was very much asked to tell you about how we sewn our DREAM COTTAGE in Kulemino.

You can read about all our stories about building a dacha with your own hands on the shore of a Karelian lake by the tag: - you are welcome to visit us.

And today I will tell you all about the cladding ...
I want to say right away that I don't have detailed photos of the process - there was no time to make them .. But I tried to draw understandable illustrations :))
BUT! if you have any questions - I'm mulberry! :)))

So let's go ...
As I already said, the 2014 season ended with the cladding of one large wall in the new living room.

By that time we had already left for Moscow, and my dad was making this wall himself. Actually, I can say - HERO. Since 4 meters of the wall is in one hand ... Together is normal, but alone ...
But he did it and even treated it with an antiseptic before winter - which I was incredibly happy about.

The 2015 season is a lot of work to complete the construction of a new room - and of course, we also finished it beautifully from all three sides ...

The 2016 season was under the motto: BEAUTIFULLY WIDE THE WHOLE HOUSE!
No sooner said than done…

How did this idea come to my mind at all? I don't know for sure ... But I clearly knew that I wanted to see this picture :))) from my collection on Pinterest.

And then I often saw in our villages this way of covering houses ... I really liked it.
This is not only beautiful - since you cannot imagine how beautiful the play of light and shadow on the edges of the board is, but also practical - if you just upholster the board with the board just “evenly”, that is, there is a risk that the cracks will still be ... and they will have to be closed with strips ... And this method practically safeguard us from the story with the lambs - that's why he was chosen.

My dad, as usual, with his skeptical attitude, said that it should be done as simple as possible - but I'm stubborn - insisted on my own ... Yes, more boards were used ... (one wall of our house is about 27 boards), but it was worth it!

And it turned out just super ... And in chocolate color, he beautifully blended into the history of the forest.

So ... how did this all come about?

If you remember, our new room is “conditionally frame”. Therefore, on the outside we have a WIND SHIELD ... the whole frame is sheathed with it. According to the rules, there must be some distance between the cladding final layer of the house and the windscreen (the manufacturer advises 5 cm) for the normal functioning of the entire frame system - this is of course understandable ...

In this regard, the work on sheathing the house with the FIRMWOOD plank was as follows:

STEP # 1 - make guides from bars and install them on the frame of the whole house in increments of no more than 1 meter.

STEP number 2 - select the boards that are prepared for this work, polish them well and preferably treat with an antiseptic.

STEP # 3 - carefully do all the house sewing work.


Required tools and materials:

• Chainsaw
• Jigsaw and saws for wood
• Desirable wood sawing machine
• Grinder and a lot of sandpaper
• Roulettes, corner of iron and level!
• Hammers
• Nails
• screwdriver and wood screws
• Antiseptic, brushes, rollers.

And more - a lot of free space for work, so that your workplace is as convenient as possible!

Go…

Step one - bars or lathing.

We did not buy ready-made bars as it was both inconvenient and expensive for us. We have a machine, so we just sawed the bars from the boards that remained from the floor with a section of 4 cm.

On the walls of wood, the bars were simply screwed with large self-tapping screws, on the stone walls the story was more complicated - they required special dowels and dowel-nails to keep everything well.

The guides were fastened with a step of about 1 meter, no more. Somewhere it turned out and 60 cm, and 80 ...
This is also an important point - if the wall is long without windows, there is a temptation to make huge steps of the crate - like you can save nails - but then there is a risk that the board will bend ... And everything will go to pieces - think a hundred times!

STEP # 2 - board:


Our upholstery board was as follows: edged board 125 * 20 * 6000.

From my point of view, this is the most convenient size both in thickness and in width .. well, I will not talk about the length. On the one hand, the longer the better - but it's also harder to work :)

We carefully sanded each board. EVERYONE! And especially the ends. The end that went “inside” under the board - I did not grind it perfectly, but just processed it a little.

In the mind, each board must also be treated with an antiseptic from all sides - I was a lazy person who did not process it on the inside.
But you can't do that :)))!

Here I will make a small clarification from experience: you will not be able to grind the entire board right away - this is completely inconvenient for the whole house as a whole. Divide the work into sections.

How we did:
For example, we decided to make wall A. There are two windows (see picture). The lathing is in place and you can measure everything well.
We measure all areas (under the windows, above the windows, between them) and cut the board into pieces of the required length. Then I grind and we nail them right away ... Everything is fast.

Why cut a board? Believe me, sanding 120 cm or 6 meters is two big differences. For long boards, I made a whole device from clamps and workers' tables.


Why it is necessary to grind: because ... because, firstly, everything will be perfectly evenly beautiful, and secondly, the grinded board will consume much less paint (impregnation, glaze, etc.). And this is a significant savings in money as well. So you are faced with a choice - to buy a sanded board or to go this way yourself. We had no choice - we had to grind ourselves.

The hardest job in this story is grinding. Since it is boring ... and monotonous. Then my hands hurt from the machine very much.
But I did it. And the men helped a lot. Sometimes my dad and I worked in two hands, I polished the board, and he polished its ends - it was very convenient to cooperate in such an artel :)

Now let's move on to the process of creating the "FIRMWOOD".

The most important thing there is to set the first board perfectly exactly. It is installed absolutely straight, hammered into 2 nails in each guide. And the most important thing is to make sure that its level is perfectly even.

The digression is lyrical: when we talk about the evenness of the board, we must understand that it almost does not exist in nature ... Ie. very rarely when they bring you a stack of 5-6 cubes of an ideal even-cut board. And you will be able to provide storage at such a high level that it will not drive it, it will not pick up moisture, it will not start to rot, and so on ...
You will have to face all these difficulties - be prepared for pleasant and not very pleasant surprises.
If you buy a board at once in a large volume - organize the storage space, fold the stack correctly with the crossbars, do not fold the board close to each other, and try to protect it from rain.

How to set exactly the first board? We worked together and did this: we figured out the “beginning” of our wall in a herringbone.

The husband nailed his edge on 1 nail (nails were used 50 and 70ka).
Then he went to the center of the board and set a level, while I was adjusting my edge at his direction. Then, when the level showed "OK", the husband walked away from the house for an impressive distance and looked at the visual evenness, since our long board was not all very perfect.
If everything is OK, then I hammered in my edge and we ended up nailing the board along all the guides.

We take the second board and begin to form that very Christmas tree by superimposing one board on another.

The "overlap" was literally 1-1.5 cm. No more! The sewing process was the same as with the first board - hammered the first nail, checked the level, it is necessary - checked visually and went to nail everything else ...

We tried to make the board fit very tightly to the previous board and we had practically no gaps between them.

The difficulty sometimes arose if the board had a “hump”, then we straightened it right on the spot so that the force of the nail would help us put everything in its place.

If everything goes smoothly, the board is level, and there were no mistakes from the very beginning, then the work is very fast. It took us two or three hours to cover one wall.

This is how, step by step, we sheathed the whole house in two seasons (only one pediment remained - but that's another story).

Make sure your nails are of good quality :)) and not these:

Now about the paint.

After we finished the house, I covered it with a special glaze from "OLYMP":

OLIMP Omicron-Maximum - Wood-protective glazing thixotropic composition with a UV filter.

Why OLYMPUS? It's simple - budget and proven by repeated use at other sites.

I first got acquainted with Olympic impregnations when I was making a balcony in my apartment in Moscow. There we have made a bar from a pine board. And then we covered it with this very impregnation of the color "WALNUT" ... Now almost 8 years have passed ... Only the "convergence" of the paint layer has become noticeable. But - this is the 19th floor of the northern part of Moscow, blown by the most terrible winds and practically this table is always flooded with rains very much.

We have covered the walls in the recreation room of the bathhouse with azure from OLYMPUS, the pediment of the guest room from the side of the street is covered, all the filings of the roof of a large house are covered ... For its long use, while it shows itself from the good side.

Therefore, we did not think for a long time and bought also the glazes from OLYMPUS for the walls. The only difference is that this time we chose not water-based glazes. Therefore, it smelled strongly, was quite thick, it should only be diluted with white spirit, and, accordingly, different care for brushes and rollers.

Planking the house with an overlapping board is an excellent option to decorate the facade of the house, give it a beautiful and individual appearance. At the cost of boarding a house with a board, perhaps the cheapest option for finishing external walls.

As for the durability of such finishing of the external walls of the house, here a lot depends on how the board for covering the house was processed and how well it was protected from various negative external factors.

Before you take on boarding your house with an overlap board yourself, read the information on this topic, ask your friends and watch a video on the Internet on how to properly trim a house with a board. All this will help to avoid mistakes in the process of decorating the house with an overlapping board and will allow the lined surface of the walls of the house to serve as long as possible.

Sheathing the house with an overlap board - instructions

It is probably not worth talking about the fact that the entire board for house cladding must be thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptics before installation. Also, in order to sheathe the house with an overlapping board, you will need to assemble a frame. For its assembly, it is also better to use wood in the form of small bars in cross-section.

From a tool for planking a house with a board you will need:

• A screwdriver, if wood screws will be used to fasten the boards.
• Hacksaw for wood.
• Hammer, nailer and pliers.

First, the frame is assembled for mounting the boards. All work on fixing the frame is carried out according to the pre-made markings. After the frame is assembled, you can cut the prepared board according to the available dimensions in order to sheathe the walls of the house with an overlap.

To do this, an overlap must be marked on each cut board. In this case, the work on cladding the house with an overlap board will be quick and without complications. Before you start cladding a house with a board, you will need to choose one of the available installation methods.

In total, there are several ways to cover a house with a board:

• Sheathing the house with a rustic board or with a beveled tongue;
• Sheathing with a board in a half-crust and with a bevel in a quarter;
• Board cladding in gluing;
• Planking in tongue and groove and straight quarter.

After the completed marking and preparation of the boards, you can proceed to the independent sheathing of the house with an overlap. In the process of performing these works, the masters recommend adhering to the following tips.

First advice: Do not nail boards or screw them with self-tapping screws only from above and below. It is better to do it at random, because in this way it will turn out better, to fix the material. At the same time, during the operation of the wooden facade of the house, the board will not absorb moisture and split.

Second tip: In order to sheathe the house with an overlapping board, it is better to use ordinary steel nails rather than galvanized nails. The galvanized surface of the nail is still peeled off during installation, after which such nails begin to rust very quickly. The ideal option when sheathing a house with an overlapping board is considered to be the use of stainless nails, but such fasteners have a rather high cost.

so when sheathing the house with an overlapping board, it is very important to properly prepare the material, make a crate and choose from the methods of fastening the boards with an overlap, after which you can safely take on this work.

Facade decoration is carried out with various materials. At the same time, the correct use of even boards with raw edges can turn out to be an external decoration for any home. Wood cladding is an environmentally friendly way to protect you from sun, wind, rain and frost.

Preliminary and final processing of materials is of no small importance in ensuring the service life of the external decorative coating. Thanks to her, the cladding of the house with a board will preserve the beautiful appearance of the building for many years.

Some features

In order to cover your house with an overlap board, you need to solve several problems in advance:

• decide on the type of wood;
• select materials for preliminary and finishing;
• assess the need for additional insulation;
• choose fastening materials.

Planking a building is not cheap. However, its huge plus is in the naturalness and natural beauty of such a material.

Choice of wood

The following types of wood can be used for the exterior cladding of a house with an overlap board:

1. Larch... This is the leader of this list in terms of basic characteristics. The wood is moisture resistant. The degree of its warpage is significantly lower than that of other conifers. According to the Brinell scale, its hardness is 109 units, which practically corresponds to this parameter of oak. Easy to process, nails hold well in such a fairly dense rock. The service life is at least 100 years. Such wood is hardly susceptible to insect attack. The only disadvantage is the high price.
2. Spruce... This type of tree is quite well impregnated with resin. The presence of numerous knots is a big plus for decorative design. However, the wood is soft. Therefore, after a few years, cracks form around the knots. Due to these characteristics, spruce board finishing is a rare occurrence.
3. Pine... The hardness of this rock is only 1.6 units. A board made of this type is very warped. Service life no more than 12 years. In this regard, pine is used less frequently for external cladding than larch.
4. Cedar... The material is resistant to decay, but it is susceptible to insect attack, therefore additional processing is required. The material is soft, but its service life is about 20 years.
5. Oak... This material looks very nice, the hardness is 110 units, the service life is at least 100 years. Oak is resistant to moisture and decay, as well as insect attack. The disadvantages include high cost. Driving nails without first drilling the hole will often split the material.

Hardwoods are also very popular. However, the cheapest species are pine and spruce. But when using them, high-quality treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants is required, at the final stage - with varnishes.

After choosing the type of wood, it is necessary to determine the degree of processing of the material:

1. Obapol slab or just a slab when facing a house has rarely been used lately. Such a board is the edge of a log with an oval surface. The disadvantage is the different width.
2. Unedged board. From lumber it is in the greatest demand. On the board, one or both ends are not finished in length.
3. A clear-edged board is processed along its entire length, the width is the same along it.
4. Grooved board. From the ends along the length it has grooves of various shapes.

Now planken is gaining wide popularity as a facing material. Such non-grooved board is in demand, it is made from both larch and pine with beveled edges. Produced with a thickness of no more than 20 mm.

You should pay attention to the board - imitation of a bar. Its thickness is 16–45 mm.

The most convenient width of any board used is 300 mm. At the same time, the thickness of the finishing material can vary from 20 to 30 mm.

It must be remembered that the material for work must be dry. Therefore, it is recommended to keep it outdoors for up to two weeks in the summer, sheltering it from moisture. In this case, the shrinkage of the material after the work is completed will significantly decrease.

Selection of auxiliary materials for pre-treatment and sealing of joints

Exterior finishing of the house implies preliminary preparation. The walls must be protected from dampness and fungus. For this, premium wood pre-impregnation products turn out to be excellent helpers. These are Biofa primers or Woodlife antiseptics. They make walls resistant not only from moisture and fungus, but also from fire.

It is imperative to make sure that the basement is waterproofed correctly. On a stone or concrete foundation, moisture gradually rises to the walls. It should also be taken into account that the board should never come into contact with the ground.

There must be a blind area around the house. It can be done after finishing the finishing work. Do not forget about the presence of a waterproofing layer from the wall of the building.

To seal the joints between the boards along the length, a variety of mastics and other means are used, for example, Perma-Chink acrylic sealant or Energy Seal. They have good adhesion and elasticity, the ability to both compress and stretch. Cracks between the seams are not formed during their application.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the need to warm the house. If the building is made of gas blocks, then it is advisable to perform this event. If mats are used as insulation, then suspensions, used, for example, for drywall, must be provided for fastening the guide bar.

After all such "little things" are provided, finishing work can be started.

Unedged boarding technology

After processing the board with a protective coating and waterproofing the walls, and, if necessary, installing a heater, the cladding material is attached over the insulation to the vertical bars. The house is sheathed from bottom to top with nails.

In the lower part of the vertical bars, it is necessary to nail a horizontally thin strip that sets the angle of inclination (relative to the vertical) of each subsequent board. The next layer is superimposed on the previous one. This "overlap" is 15 to 20 mm. It is necessary to maintain the same inclination of the board relative to the vertical.

When applying each next row, one should not forget about observing the horizontal arrangement of the finishing material. Fastening the board with nails is carried out at the bottom of it.

Upholstery of the house with an unedged board ends with a topcoat. Varnish is often used for this. This coating is produced on a different basis. Borma acrylic varnish or Varathane polyurethane varnish have proven themselves well. They protect wood from moisture, sunlight, temperature changes. At the same time, the natural appearance of the fibers is well preserved.

If there is a desire to sheathe your own house with an overlapping board, then usually they try to solve two main problems.

First of all, this applies to atmospheric influences. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the walls of the building, for example, made with the use of foam concrete. It is necessary to make reliable protection of the laid layers of insulation.

Also, the building will receive a beautiful, original and decorative look.

Planking the house with a board: some features

To make the cladding of a house with a board, you will need finishing materials that must correspond to the solution of these problems. They must make the house beautiful and provide reliable protection.

Horizontal sheathing around the window: a-overlapping sheathing, b - sheathing with overlapping grooved boards, c - half-grooved profiled sheathing, d - grooved profiled sheathing, e - basement casting board, e - without a basement casting board, z - sheathing of the corner of a corner board , and - sheathing corners in the shank.

In most cases, the construction of a fastening frame is required to complete the cladding of a house with a wooden board. Certain exceptions are assembled panel houses. Such houses can be sheathed directly on the mounted load-bearing frame.

The creation of the frame depends on the used material with which the walls will be sheathed.

An important role is played by the types of fastening of the future cladding. The choice of fastening is influenced by the design of the facade. Sometimes his device has no ventilation.

The structural material for cladding the walls of a house is very often a board of two types. It can be cut to a certain size or unedged. It all depends on the design of the frame and the materials used. In some cases, wooden blocks of different sizes are also used.

They make the cladding of the house using other materials, for example, siding. It is installed on factory metal profiles.

However, you will be interested in the external cladding of the building with a wooden edged board or clapboard. Such a block house imitates the surface of the walls, they become like the walls of a log house.

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How is fastening performed

Sheathing the house with a board (clapboard) begins from its bottom. The lower part is level. It is attached to the frame, and the spike should be at the top. The next product is put on it, made in it by a groove.

I must say that in some cases, the elements are placed with difficulty. This is due to manufacturing defects, with the resulting deformation that arose during drying. The length of the system determines its uniform installation on the bottom board.

In order to properly plant the element, gaskets are made, for which a small piece of the same lining is taken. A board is hammered through the gasket in places where a gap has formed.

You often hear the phrase "overlap".

This refers to the overlap of the inner structure with two outer parts.

To sheathe the house, use products 100 mm wide. The overlap is 25 mm on each side. In other words, the best distance from the front board to the inside board is 150 mm.

This dimension must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the sheathing. When covering the floor, so that there are no gaps between the cladding to be laid and the tiled floor, you need to fix an additional board to the tiles and mount the screed. In this case, the cladding of the house will turn into a kind of continuation of the base.

Before sheathing the house with a board begins, it is necessary to decide on the length of the products themselves. Since finishing work will be carried out in the future, there is no need to maintain high accuracy.

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Internal boards, their assembly and installation

The board is installed according to the previously made marks. Fasteners are held in the middle with a metal nail. You should not use a nail gun to install such cladding.

But if the board is fastened with a self-tapping screw, a mechanical screwdriver will provide effective assistance. The elements located in the inner row are fastened with nails (80 mm), the screws should have the same length.

Before installation, the product is measured and cut to a suitable length. When a roof is sheathed that does not have a very large angle of inclination, you can immediately cut off two or three elements.

When installing, do not forget that the boards are installed with the "front" side out. On this side, the veins have an upward bend, very much like a smile.

Fastening the boards can be done with a nail gun. But to use such a tool, you need some experience. A beginner is unlikely to be able to drive nails in a straight line. That is why it will be better to use a mechanical screwdriver.