Water pump assembly. We make a water pump with our own hands. Construction # 8 - a device from a washing machine

There are times in life when, without spending a large number of resources, a problem needs to be solved.

If you have the ingenuity and skillful hands, then you can create with your own hands many original and useful designs. So you can make at home and a water pump.

The design of the future pump

Photos of the pump, which are presented on the Internet, are mainly purchased products, but you can also create such a useful attribute at home, you just need to try a little.

The question of how to make a pump with your own hands is asked by many summer residents and just people who have their own garden or garden.

Overflow pump

The first version of the pump that you can create with your own hands is a liquid overflow pump. It is the simplest and most familiar design, and it does not take a lot of money and effort to make it.

But the materials needed for its implementation are:

Plain plastic bottle with cork;
The same bottle, but without cork;
A piece of plastic pipe of the required dimensions;
AND key moment- the drain hose itself.

The first step is to make a reed valve for hand pump. To do this, remove the gasket from under the cap of the plastic bottle.

In the center of the bottle cap we close up a hole of 8 mm. After inserting the gasket there, we screw the neck of the bottle. This design is a ready-made valve into which a plastic pipe must be inserted.

And in the meantime, cut off the top of the second bottle. It turns out an element that looks like a regular funnel. This funnel should be fixed over the pipe. Connect the other end of the pipe to the drain hose. Thus, the simplest do-it-yourself water pump contraction is ready.

Vacuum pump

But pumps are also different. So, you can create a vacuum pump at home. Such pumps already have a wide functionality, and are designed to solve deeper domestic and industrial problems.

Most often they are used for pumping gas or steam from an enclosed space.

It is more difficult to make such a pump at home than the most common one. Therefore, it is recommended to find clear instructions on the Internet, and act strictly according to the points prescribed in the instructions.

Submersible pump

The next type is a submersible pump. This is also one of the economical options for making a pump house.

The materials that will be required in the work are: a washer motor from a car, an inexpensive auto sealant, a silicone tube, a two-wire wire, a soldering iron and, of course, free time to work.

In total, all these materials will cost you 200 rubles, no more, but buy new pump- not such a cheap pleasure.

Pump repair

In addition to the fact that the pump can be made at home, the repair of the pump can also be done independently. And then many turn to special repair services, and spend a lot of money on all this.

Note!

The main thing is to know where the pump failed and find out the course of action.

Submersible pumps are the most susceptible to failure because they function well in various conditions. Faced with a minor breakdown, you can fix everything yourself, without the intervention of expensive specialists.

The first thing to know is the location of the fault. By the way, pump repair involves not only the replacement of broken elements, but also their additional adjustment so that they can continue to function properly.

For example, after replacing a valve in a pump, all valves should be adjusted so that the failure does not affect the pump's power.

There are elements that are sold only in stores that exclude a quick breakdown of the pump, thanks to them the pump will last for a long time and with high quality.

Note!

If you do not know anything and do not understand the repair of pumps, then it is better not to approach this matter on your own.

It will be good to invite a friend or acquaintance who understands this. After all, intervening in this matter, you can be left without a pump or cause unnecessary damage and defects to it.

DIY pump photo

Despite the democratic cost and a wide range of modern pumping equipment, some primitive models can be made independently. And the point here is not only in acquiring technical skills, but also in a kind of relaxation, exercise for the body and mind. After reading this article, you will learn how toDIY water pump.

On the feasibility of hand-made production

The main disadvantage of factory water pumps is the need to connect to power lines. We must agree that many suburban areas, especially at the beginning of construction, electricity is a rarity.

Moreover, electricity tariffs are constantly growing, and the owners of summer cottages know about the cases of its shutdown like no one else. It is for this reason that every self-respecting owner should have at his disposal "spare" equipment for pumping water. Such equipment is useful not only when watering the garden and vegetable garden - it can also be used at critical moments.

Note! It is recommended to make a piston water pump (or pump pump, as it is also called), because this the simplest option water intake equipment. This requires only minimal technical skills and a small set of tools.

The principle of operation of the pumping pump

The housing contains a cylinder with a piston moving inside it. The cylinder itself has an inlet and an outlet equipped with valves. To facilitate pitching, a spring is installed between the bottom valve and the piston - it will attract the piston.

The air in the cylinder is rarefied during the movement of the piston, as a result of which the inlet opens and water is drawn in. Further, when the piston moves to reverse side, the valve closes and water leaves the cylinder through the outlet. The only engine here is the applied muscular effort, and the performance of the device depends not only on them, but also on the volume of the cylinder.

Note! A piston pump is unlikely to be able to provide a full-fledged water supply to the site, but in emergency cases it can be used to pump some water, for example, to water the beds.

In most cases, pumping pumps are equipped with wells of shallow depth - Abyssinian wells.

Piston pump manufacturing technology

There is nothing complicated in creating a pumping pump, the main thing is to prepare everything you need and follow the instructions below.

Stage 1. First, a cylinder is formed. This will require a metal pipe ø10 cm and a length of 1 m. To ensure unhindered movement of the piston, the inner surface of the pipe must be processed sandpaper(for convenience, the latter is planted on a wooden stick).

Note! It is not necessary to use a pipe with round section, the configuration can be very diverse - from a square to a hexagon.

Stage 2. Brackets are welded to the cylinder, with which the pump lever will be attached. They must be installed so that the lever enters between them freely. For the manufacture of brackets, metal corners are used.

Stage 3. A hole is drilled in the upper part of the cylinder for the drain pipe. The branch pipe itself can be placed both opposite the brackets and to the side of them.

Stage 4. Next, you need to make a cover that would cover the bottom end of the case. In the presence of welding machine butt is welded metal plate, but you should know that the lid can also be made from improvised materials. It can be, for example, moisture-resistant larch, the strength of which only increases when it comes into contact with water.

Step 5. The top cover is optional, but it is better to install it in order to increase the efficiency of the device. The lid will prevent splashing of the collected water. There are no special requirements regarding strength, therefore, both wood and plastic are used in the manufacture, the main thing is to make a hole for the stem.

Note! The hole must be slit-like because the stem will move parallel to the lever.

a metal disk 3-4 cm thick, which creates a difference in pressure;
a piece of rubber of the appropriate size 5 cm thick.

Several holes ø1 cm are made in the piston, after which it is covered with an elastic band. Then a through hole is made in the center of the connected parts to fix the stem.

piston pump
1 - filter; 2 - a column of water pipes; 3 - branch; 4 - check valve; 5 - disc valve; b - pump cylinder; 7 - pump piston; 8 - piston valve; 9 - piston rod; 10 - water intake tank; 11 - balancer

Video - How a piston pump works

Stage 7. After that, you can begin to manufacture the stem. For this, a metal rod ø1-1.5 cm is used - one end is inserted into the center of the piston and screwed on from below with a nut, the second is attached to the lever.

Step 8. To make the lever, you will need an iron pipe ø3 cm, in the center of which a long bolt is attached. Once installed, this bolt will go between the two brackets. One end of the pipe is flattened and a bolt hole is drilled in it, with which the stem will be fixed. The other end of the lever, which the person will hold on to with his hands, is wrapped with electrical tape or a thick cord.

Stage 9. The inlet valve is a piece of dense rubber (its shape must match the section of the cylinder). The valve diameter should be smaller than the body diameter, but larger than the borehole tip diameter. A guide is attached to the center of the valve, which will return it to the body after each cycle. In this case, the length of the guide must be greater than the distance between the drain hole and the lower end of the housing.

Stage 10. The pump body is mounted on the pipe. At the same time, it is desirable to cut a thread on the inlet of the cylinder and the head of the well - so there will be no problems when connecting.

Note! To increase the strength of the device, you can use additional supports welded to the body and fixed to a metal frame lying on the ground.

A rod leading from the inlet valve is lowered into the hole made in the lower end of the housing, after which the piston is inserted. The pump lever is bolted to the brackets and attached to the rod. Everything, the piston pump is ready for operation.

Note that the pumping pump can be installed not only on a shallow well, but also pump water from a nearby reservoir with its help. For this purpose, not the head of the Abassinian well is connected to the inlet valve, but a hose that must be thrown into the reservoir. In this case, the pump will not create pressure, which is why it will not be able to raise water above the level of the sewn neck. It is advisable to put a large barrel next to the pump and fill it - this will allow you to use water as needed.

If the farm has old automobile brake chambers lying around, then they can also be used to create a water pump. The sequence of actions in this case should be as follows.

Stage 1. The brake chamber is disassembled, all holes in the housing are carefully sealed.

Stage 2. Inlet and outlet valves are installed in the lower part of the body, and a hole for the stem is made in the upper part.

Stage 3. Rubber is used as a piston - it is clamped between the lid and the bottom of the chamber. The piston is connected to the rod with bolts (preferably through gaskets).

Stage 4. A bracket is installed on the side to fix the lever.

Stage 5. The lever is connected to the bracket, and one of its ends is connected to the stem.

The principle of operation of this pump is practically no different from the design described above: after each pressing of the lever, an increased / decreased pressure is created in the lower part of the housing, which leads to the opening of the valve at the inlet / outlet.

A little-known design that functions from the power of fire. For manufacturing, you need an airtight iron barrel with a capacity of at least 200 liters.

Stage 1. First, a furnace is built to heat the structure. The best option- small brick oven with grate.

Stage 2. Then, an outlet cock is equipped in the lower part of the body.

Stage 3. A rubber hose is inserted into the hole on the top cover (it should sit as tightly as possible). A mesh filter is installed on the outer end of the hose, after which the hose is immersed in a lake or river.

Stage 4. Several liters of water are poured into the barrel, after which the stove is ignited. The outlet valve must be closed. The heated air, expanding, goes into the reservoir. Further, the fire is extinguished, and the air, having cooled and, accordingly, having contracted, will draw the water into the barrel.

If desired, fire can be replaced by solar energy. To build such a pump, you need to perform the following steps.

Stage 1. A lattice is made of metal tubes, while there should be one exit. Next, the finished grille is covered with black paint.

Stage 2. The inlet is brought to the aluminum can.

Stage 3. The lid of the can is equipped with inlet and outlet valves. Nipples from old car tires are ideal for this.

Stage 4. A small rubber container, for example, a car camera, is connected to the outlet of the grate inside the can.

Stage 5. The outlet on the cover is connected to a hose leading to a reservoir or well. The other end of the hose is removed from the reservoir, equipped with a tip from a watering can and installed above the grate.

This pump works as follows. The grate heats up, and the air in it expands and inflates the rubber container. As a result, the air is forced out of the can and enters the reservoir, where, rising, it entails water. A small amount of water enters the watering can to cool the grate, after which the cycle is repeated.

Note! Such a pump can be somewhat modernized by pumping propane-butane into the grate instead of air.

As you can see, with the help of skill and a minimum set of tools, you can make a water pump out of almost everything. To get acquainted with other technologies, we recommend watching a thematic video.

Video - Making a water pump

A centralized water supply system in small summer cottages is a great luxury. That is why the problem of organizing water supply sooner or later falls on the shoulders of their owners.

With a limited budget, most in a rational way The solution to the problem is considered and the installation of a hand pump. We will understand all the intricacies of the operation of such equipment, as well as its manufacture with our own hands.

1 Operational features of hand pumps

A water hand pump for a well is a special device for pumping fluid to the surface under pressure. Equipment of this type is driven by human efforts by pressing a special lever mechanism.

The operation of manual installations requires the use of physical force, so it is rational to use them in areas with a low need for water.

Of course, the speed of work and the volume of liquid raised by the pump are incomparable with automatic systems, but the lack of an uninterrupted source of electricity is forcing summer residents to increasingly introduce this particular format of devices.

1.1 Advantages and disadvantages

The manual method of raising water from a well has a number of advantages and disadvantages. TO positive moments can be attributed:

The simplicity of the equipment was the reason for its quick installation.
Installation of the system is possible in almost any conditions.
Saving resources - the pump is driven by human effort, without requiring an electrical connection.
The device consists of unified components and parts, which, if necessary, are subject to replacement - this feature allows you to maximize the life of the installation.
A hand pump is much cheaper than its counterparts.
You save money on putting the equipment into operation, because the process is so simple that it does not require the involvement of a specialist.

1.2 Classification of hand pumps

Pumps for pumping water from an Abyssinian or other well perform the same function, but their design and principle of operation are somewhat different from each other. Depending on the specified criteria, equipment with manual mechanism classified into two categories:

piston pumps;
rod pumps.

Manual piston pumps are used in cases where the water at the site is located at a shallow depth - up to 10 m.

The principle of operation of the equipment is quite simple. The device is a metal cylinder, inside of which a piston is placed. Under the influence of physical force, it alternately moves up and down. Raising the lever by a person leads to the displacement of liquid through the inlet, and lowering it leads to filling the above-piston space with water.

It will not be difficult to build such a simple device with your own hands and mount it in your summer cottage.

A manual deep-well rod pump is a more complex mechanism that is designed to pump water from an Abyssinian well or any other depth of 10-30 m. Its design consists of a cylinder, a piston and a very long rod, which, under the action of a lever, starts the entire system. The rod pump is located directly in, while its rod is immersed in the water layer to a depth of about 1 m.

To figure out which type of product is right for your environment, you will have to study the basic criteria for choosing equipment.

2 Hand pump selection

The choice of a manual fluid transfer pump will depend on a number of factors:

Well depth.

The most important criterion when buying equipment or making it yourself. To lift water from a shallow depth (up to 10 m), you can use simple mechanisms with a piston system. If you have to pump liquid from an Abyssinian well with a depth of 10-30 m, you will have to choose a device with a rod system.

Well diameter.

Mounting method.

When selecting a device, you need to think in advance whether there is a need for its further movement to another object. Such a need often arises when, for household needs, liquid is taken from the river, and for drinking - from.

period of use.

The main element of a hand pump is a piston in a pipe

On sale there are models designed for year-round use, as well as inexpensive options with a plastic case for use in the summer.

By considering every detail in advance, you can be sure that the hand pump for pumping water will meet the user's expectations.

2.1 Stages of manufacturing and connecting a hand pump

Assembling a hand pump with your own hands from improvised means is a feasible task for every man. The main thing is to strictly follow the indicated instructions:

We make the body.

For the body of a homemade pump, you will need a metal cylinder - it can be a piece of an old pipe or an unnecessary sleeve from a diesel engine. The length of the segment should be about 60-80 cm, and the diameter should be over 8 cm.

To ensure the high-quality operation of future equipment, it is necessary to machine the inner surface of the pipe on the machine. By ridding the metal of unevenness, you will ease the effort that will be required to pump water.

Cut out the lid.

For its manufacture, you can use metal or plastic. In the cover, be sure to make a hole for the stem. When the design is ready, the piston is placed inside. After that, the bottom is closed with exactly the same lid with a valve. A pipe for water supply is welded on the side.

Piston installation.

The piston can be made of wood, plastic or metal, the main rule is that it must be sealed with a rubber ring. When installing this structural element, it is necessary to leave a minimum gap between the walls of the housing, then water will not seep through.

Connecting the inlet pipe to the well.

The inlet pipe that supplies water to the inside of the device must be strong and durable. To ensure these characteristics, select reinforced hoses, rigid plastic elements or.

Valve installation.

Check valves are special holes that are created in the piston body and the bottom cover of the metal cylinder. They determine the performance of the entire system. Valves prevent fluid from returning back to the inlet pipe.

To create them, you can use thick rubber, which is fixed on the hole with rivets.

Decorative work.

A homemade hand pump should have a comfortable handle. Its shape can be any, the main thing is to securely attach the element to the stem. In addition, the pump itself must be fixed on the prepared site using a flange.

Having carried out the whole complex of works of the above works, you will ensure an uninterrupted supply of water on your own site.

2.2 Stages of creating a pump (video)

Not every Russian Vacation home equipped with the same water supply as urban dwellings, and therefore in our villages a hand pump for water (columns or wells), supplying artesian water, is still popular. Consider what types of them are, and also find out if it is possible to make such a device with your own hands.

Types of pumps for water from a well

Progress does not stand still, and along with manual pumps, there are also electric pumps. They are also very popular with people living outside the city, but the simple device, driven by muscle power, has not yet lost ground. What is the secret of such popularity and longevity? Most likely in a low price and energy savings. This can be added to the independence from external water supply networks, the absence of any payment for the maintenance of the pipeline.

Types or wells are divided according to the principles that underlie their work:

piston;
rod;
deep.

The essence of the piston device

Manual is indirectly familiar, probably to anyone since childhood. It is these devices that are used to inflate bicycle tires. Pumps that create the highest outlet pressure are unlikely to be suitable for supplying water to a well reservoir from deep wells. Maximum occurrence ground water, at which it is possible to use a manual piston device is 8 m, and the height of the column itself, installed on the surface, is usually 70–100 cm.

The principle of a manual piston pump is as follows:

At rest, the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder, the disc valve is closed, and another valve located on the piston itself keeps fluid from flowing from the upper chamber to lower part pump.
As soon as the lever is pressed, the rod begins to pull the piston. A vacuum space is formed between it, the walls and the bottom of the cylinder, into which water begins to flow through the hole that opened after the disk valve was raised.
During the upward movement of the piston, the valve located on it is closed, due to which the water that was in the upper part of the column rises to the level of the outlet valve and pours out through it.
When the piston has reached the top point, the resulting vacuum begins to pull it down. This opens a piston valve that allows water to enter the top of the cylinder.
Under pressure from above, the piston continues to move down, and the disc valve closes, preventing the outflow of incoming water into the well.

The peculiarity of such a pump is that the inlet hose must be rigid, and the column itself is installed directly above the well. You yourself understand that for the owners of the house this entails certain inconveniences: it is not a very great pleasure to walk with a bucket through the entire site if the occurrence of groundwater is not found near the house.

How do boom units work?

This hand pump for a well or well, although it contains the principles of a piston device, is slightly improved. And this opens up the possibility of pumping liquid from a depth of a maximum of 30 m. The peculiarity lies in the special design of the piston, equipped with a special rod (and the name just comes from this modification).

As always, the complication of the design leads to a decrease in strength. The main disadvantage is the frequent breakdown of these same rods. Here, however, it all depends on the manufacturer, which is responsible for the selection quality materials and careful assembly. The second negative point is that the design of the pump itself is rather cumbersome, and this causes certain difficulties during installation.

This unit works in exactly the same way as a piston unit, and the difference is that not a pipeline is introduced into the well through which water enters, but the entire pump housing to the level of artesian waters. That is, the reservoir holds much more fluid than a simple piston pump, and water can be drawn from a greater depth. Hence, the presence harmful impurities falling into the water at shallower depths is excluded.

Feature of the deep pump

This hand pump for a well or well differs little in appearance from piston pumps: the shape, piston and principle of operation are exactly the same. The only peculiarity is that the exhaust pipe and the rod connected to the piston have a length significantly exceeding the same parts for the above models. If necessary, the stem size can be increased by more than 30 m.

The most inconvenient thing is that the piston will have to be raised and lowered only due to muscular strength. The vacuum created to suck water from the well is only enough to raise the water to a certain height. Further movement is made only by additional external efforts. So despite the unlimited possibilities of water intake from any depth, this kind of popularity is not.

How to make your own pump?

Every man who is at least a little familiar with the tool has the opportunity to save money and not purchase a commercial version of the pump, and in any household there are components for the simplest device. At first, drawings can cause difficulty, it will be easier to make them if we figure out in what order we will assemble a home-made unit.

How to make a hand pump for water from a well with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Building the Case

For the base, you will need a piece of metal pipe, the diameter of which should be at least 8 cm, and the length - 60–80 cm. In this case, the thickness of the cylinder walls can be any. The main condition is the smoothness of the inner surface and the absence of corrosion on it. It is best to do the processing on the machine. The presence of the slightest unevenness will affect the operation of the piston and its wear.

Step 2: Building the lids

The cylinder must be closed on both sides. To do this, it is necessary to cut out two "round pieces" from plastic or metal that can tightly cover the diameter of the pipe. Considering what to exploit homemade pump you will be in the winter, it is preferable to use metal in order to avoid tearing the cover when icing. Absolutely ideal solution the presence of at least one (upper) threaded cover can be considered. This will greatly facilitate the operation of the pump in case of possible breakdowns. Holes must be made in the middle of the covers. At the top - for the stem, at the bottom - for the disc valve.

Step 3: Additional parts on the body

At a distance of about 20 cm from the upper edge of the cylinder, a drain "spout" should be made. It is usually made from a small piece of pipe, the diameter and length of which can be chosen independently at your discretion. It would also be useful to attach to the bottom of the flange, thanks to which it is possible to fix the assembled structure to the surface.

Step 4: Piston Assembly

The material for the manufacture of this part can be any. Wood, plastic, metal - it all depends on how the master himself sees the conditions for its operation. Just do not forget about the winter, as well as the properties of some materials to expand and swell when wet. Also, do not miss the need to make a hole for the piston valve. The next condition is that the piston diameter must be such that it adjoins the edges as tightly as possible to inner walls corps. Be that as it may, it is necessary to additionally provide this part with one or two rubber rings that exclude this gap.

If such a decision is considered reasonable by the designer of the device, grooves supporting the seals can be machined on the piston itself.

Step 5: Installing the valves

The production of these parts is possible both from rubber, silicone, and from metal and plastic. It all depends on the imagination of the designer. The main thing is to observe the principle of movement "in one direction". So, a valve fixed at the bottom of the pump must freely let in water drawn from a well or well and at the same time reliably close the inlet and withstand the pressure of a piston moving down. And vice versa: the piston valve must work flawlessly, letting fluid into the top of the pump when the piston is lowered and reliably close the hole when it tends to the top position. A little hint: devices resembling riveting in shape do an excellent job with similar functions.

So we have almost assembled a water pump with our own hands. You need a comfortable handle, it is fixed on a bracket rigidly fixed to the outside corps. The main thing is that the lever arm should be such that it is possible to raise the piston without much effort. The place that you have to take with your hand can be provided with a rubber or silicone pad. The rod must be securely fastened to the piston inside, and its outer end - with a hinge with the end of a long handle. Now it will be easy and convenient to operate your homemade pump.

The choice of pumping equipment to create autonomous system water supply of a private house or suburban area- Extremely wide. Modern electrified installations are capable of lifting water from great depths, supply it from shallow wells or wells, organize a fence from natural reservoirs. Pumps can either be surface mounted, be a completely autonomous unit with their own automation system, or be an integral part of a single water supply station. The operational capabilities of such equipment, that is, the generated pressure, productivity, power consumption, and others, also lie in a wide range, for a variety of use cases. In short, the range is able to satisfy the requirements of even the most discerning consumer.

It would seem - what else is needed? But only all these devices have one weak point - their operation is possible only if there is a power source. Power outages can paralyze the water supply at home, and, you see, in summer cottages or in “pioneer” territories where development for private construction has just begun, the instability of power networks, alas, is not a rare occurrence. So you often have to rely on the good old assistant - on the manual one, which definitely will not let you down in any situation.

A good host will not fail to install it in any case. It does not take up much space, the price is affordable, and installation on a well specially drilled for a hand pump will provide another backup source of clean water.

Manual water pumps have been used by man since ancient times, and what is interesting is that their fundamental structure has not changed much. Those who are older probably remember the usual landscape of small towns and villages, when, before the arrival of running water in every house, the main source of water was just such column pumps that served a group of buildings or even a whole block.

Widespread electrical engineering such pumps began to disappear from sight, but in the conditions of a private house or summer cottage they still remain in great demand, due to the simplicity of the device and operation, independence from the energy source and high reliability.

There are several varieties of hand pumps for water, differing in their design features. But in all types, a mandatory, one might say - the main element of the scheme, is the valve system, since with the help of muscular strength it is simply impossible to create a long-term stable pressure that can lift water from a considerable depth.

Piston hand pumps

All piston pumps have a similar layout, although outwardly they can vary greatly in their design - from simple smooth cylinders to artistic cast iron.

Of the visible parts and assemblies, one can immediately note a cylindrical body (sleeve) made of cast iron, of stainless steel, and sometimes even a polymer outlet pipe (spout), a rocker handle hinged on an axis and connected to a vertical rod that goes inside the pump.

Now let's look inside the pump and understand the principle of its operation:

So, the case-sleeve, which has already been mentioned (pos. 1). It contains a piston (pos. 2), which, along its circumference, has seals that fit snugly against the inner walls of the sleeve. The piston from above is rigidly connected to the rod (pos. 3), which, in turn, is connected to the lever of the pump rocker handle.

An outlet pipe (item 4) is cut into the body from above, or there is simply a hole (a window for the free exit of the pumped water into a pipe, gutter, etc., from where it is disassembled for consumption.

From below, a pipe from the well (pos. 5) approaches the pump, that is, a suction pipeline. Required condition– a non-return valve (pos. 6) must be installed in this pipeline before the pump. Some commercially available manual piston pumps already have a built-in valve of this kind.

On the piston itself, channels are made for the passage of water, but they are closed by a valve (valves) that exclude the flow of water from top to bottom.

Now consider the three main phases of the pump.

The left fragment of the diagram is the pump in a calm state.

After the previous use, as a rule, the chamber remains filled with water. The valves on the piston are closed, and do not allow water to go down. In addition, the non-return valve on the suction pipe is also in the closed position. (For clarity, a ball check valve is shown, although poppet type devices are more commonly used.)

The central fragment of the scheme - the user pressed the lever down.

The lever-rocker transmits the translational movement of the piston in the upper direction through the rod. Moving along the cylinder, the piston displaces the water located above it into the outlet pipe, and it merges into a container placed under the column.

The valves on the piston are closed, and the flow of displaced water down is excluded.

Below, under the piston, a rarefaction zone is simultaneously created. But "nature does not like emptiness", and this rarefaction ensures the suction of water from the well pipe into the cavity of the working cylinder. The pressure created raises the ball check valve (or compresses the poppet spring), and water fills the internal volume of the pump without interference.

The right fragment of the picture - the piston goes down.

The cavity under the piston is filled with water pumped from the well, and in it, when it is lowered, overpressure. This leads to the closing of the check valve - there is no way for the water to go down. At the same time, such pressure opens the bypass valves on the piston itself, and water flows upwards, filling the over-piston cavity of the working cylinder. The end of this phase is a return to position #1, and then the cycle repeats exactly.

The scheme is very simple and trouble-free, and its only weak point can be considered a fairly rapid wear of the seals on the piston, and sometimes valve devices, especially if you have to pump water with small solids that create an increased abrasive effect on rubber or plastic parts.

By the way, ship pumps, which were used in the sailing fleet for pumping water from holds, and fire pumps, for supplying water from reservoirs or wells, were assembled exactly according to the same principle. The difference was that usually in such pumps two working cylinders were used, acting in antiphase - the productivity from this doubled.

Sometimes some changes were made to the design of the pump that did not change its operation in principle. So, for example, you can still find models that have a wheel instead of a rocker handle. The rotational movement of the wheel through the gearbox and crank mechanism is converted into a reciprocating movement of the piston, and otherwise the pump operates exactly as described above.

Performance piston pumps directly depends on the diameter of the working cylinder and the height of the piston stroke, and for various models it can be in the range from 0.5 to 1.5÷2 liters per cycle. The height of the water rise usually does not exceed 10 meters.

Pumps are produced in various design options - from strict discreet columns to products with decoratively executed cast iron bodies and bizarrely shaped handles - such models can become a real decoration of a site designed in a certain style.

Rod (rod) pumps

If the aquifer lies at a depth of more than 10 - 12 meters, then the piston pump may no longer be able to cope with the water supply to the top - the possibilities of the suction circuit are not unlimited. For such cases, there is a special variety - rod or rod pumps.

The working body of such pumps is the same cylinder with a piston, that is, the process of pumping water is carried out approximately according to the same scheme. but there is also a fundamental difference - the pump part itself is located at a depth, directly in the thickness of the aquifer. An example circuit is shown in the figure below:

A minimum of 4 in. (100 mm) casing (key 1) is required to install these pumps. The working cylinder (pos. 2) should be located in the thickness of the aquifer, usually so that the intake hole is at least 1 meter below the water table. The cylinder is connected to the top of the pump by a pressure pipe (item 3). Inside of which there is a long rod-rod (pos. 4), which ensures the transmission of reciprocating movements to the piston. Otherwise, everything is the same: the piston has its own valve apparatus (pos. 5), and there is a check valve on the cylinder intake pipe.

It is obvious that the water supply to the top in this case does not occur due to its absorption from the depth. The cylinder below creates a column, and each working cycle this column is “supported” by a new volume of pumped water, providing its outlet to the outlet spout. This allows you to raise water from considerable depths - up to 30 meters.

Naturally, such a pump requires a greater application of force, so the working lever-rocker is usually made long, providing maximum piston stroke with minimal muscular effort.

Of course, such pumps are much more difficult both to install and to carry out maintenance and repair work. However, their productivity is much higher. However, if the aquifer is located at a great depth in the area, then such a device becomes the only possible option from all mechanical ones.

All the mentioned piston pumps have a common drawback - the water does not move continuously, but cyclically.

Other types of hand water pumps

Much less often, but still sometimes, other types of hand pumps are used to pump water from the household.

vane pump

Vane pumps are more compact and are often used for technical purposes, in production or warehouse bases. But they can also be installed on a shallow well, about 5÷7 meters.

All pumps of this type have approximately the same layout, as shown in the illustration:

The principle of operation of such a pump is shown in the diagram:

The metal case (pos. 1) has two branch pipes with a flange or socket connection - a suction one (pos. 2), through which water flows from the well, and a pressure one (pos. 3), connected to the disassembly point.

Instead of a piston, the impeller plays the main role in this case - two oppositely located wings moving radially in a certain range relative to the central axis. The movement is carried out due to the application of human muscular efforts to the handle (pos. 5), which is rigidly connected to the wings by a central rod-axis.

Below is a jumper (pos. 6), which divides the lower cavity in two. Valves (pos. 7) are installed on the wings, and similar ones, but working in opposition to them, are at the entrance to the lower chamber (pos. 8).

Thus, the impeller and the lower jumper divide the pump cavity into three compartments. Upper ("A") - pressure, and it has a constant volume in any position of the impeller. Lower ("B" and "C") - suction. Moving the handle and, accordingly, the impeller, alternately changes their volume and, accordingly, creates an alternation of areas of rarefaction and high pressure. The valve system is configured in such a way that it ensures the movement of water in only one direction - from the intake (suction) pipe to the outlet (pressure). Any movement of the operating handle corresponds to a certain volume of pumped liquid.

Such pumps can be used even for pumping quite viscous liquids, but do not like contaminated water. For a clean, shallow well, this is a completely acceptable option, especially if the well is equipped, say, in a basement, where the compactness requirements of pumping equipment may come to the fore. Dignity - water flows in an almost continuous stream, regardless of the direction of movement of the working handle. The disadvantage is that such pumps, as a rule, have a very low efficiency.

Diaphragm hand pump

Another type that can be found in conditions household for drawing water from a well diaphragm pump. All products of this type are also distinguished by their characteristic shape - a round body with a working handle located above it.

They can be made of metal (cast iron) or even plastic. Many models are designed to be placed on the wall - they are equipped with a support platform with lugs for fasteners.

The principle of operation of such a pump is simple, and is well understood from the diagram below.

The pump housing (pos. 1) consists of two halves, which are fastened with a special screw connection (pos. 2). An elastic membrane (pos. 3) is installed between the two halves of the housing.

The membrane divides the internal cavity of the pump into two chambers - air (pos. "A"), which, in principle, does not participate in the operation of the pump and is not sealed, and water (pos. "B").

In the center, the membrane is connected to the stem (pos. 4), which, in turn, is connected to the working lever handle (pos. 5).

In the lower water chamber "B" there are two valves operating in antiphase. One of them, the inlet (pos. 6), is on the suction pipe, the second, the outlet (pos. 7), is on the pressure pipe.

Moving the handle down causes the rod to rise, which pulls the elastic membrane along with it. Under it, a rarefaction area is formed, and water fills the cavity of the chamber "B" through the opening inlet valve. The outlet valve is closed in this phase.

When the handle is raised, the stem is lowered, and an increased pressure is created in the working cavity of the pump. The inlet valve closes, and the water has only one way out - through the opening outlet valve into the pressure pipe.

Pumps of this type allow creating a suction vacuum to lift water from a depth of at best up to 6 meters - you can’t expect more from them. Weak point there is always a membrane - it wears out quickly, may lose elasticity over time, and any, even a small gust of it, leads to a loss of performance, water flow through the housing, and then to a complete failure of the pump. True, the maintainability of such pumps is very good. If there is a spare membrane, then replacing it will not be difficult.

However, such pumps have not received much distribution specifically for water supply purposes. They are more widely used for technical purposes, for example, for pumping fuels and lubricants or other liquid products from one container to another.

What to look for when choosing a hand pump?

If there is an urgent need for a hand pump, then you should know how to properly approach the choice of the optimal model.

First of all, the parameters of the well (the depth of the aquifer) and the parameters of the pumps offered for sale are compared. As already mentioned, most handheld models are able to work with sources located at a depth of at least 6 ÷ 8, rarely - 10 meters. If the occurrence is deeper, then there is no alternative: it will be necessary to provide for the installation of only a rod pump.
It is important to know the performance of the pump - how much water it is able to pump per cycle (or per unit of time - a minute, with heavy load))
The next parameter of the planned (or existing) well is the diameter of the casing, which also affects the choice of the pump. If the pipe has a nominal bore of 4 inches (100 mm) or more, there are no problems, and any pump can be purchased. But in the case when the casing is narrower, the rod pump may no longer be suitable - it will simply be impossible to lower its working pump assembly into the water column.
It is necessary to know the degree from the well - usually the passport characteristics of the pump indicate the permissible level with which the equipment is able to work.
Probably, it will be useful to evaluate the convenience of working with the pump. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that among the users there may be people of respectable age or children - will their efforts be enough to collect at least a small amount of water.
It is necessary to consider how the pump will be installed - what mounting platforms or mounting holes are available for a particular model, brackets or lugs, etc. It is also important to know the mass of the purchased device in order to foresee possible ways of its installation - whether it will be a metal welded frame, a concreted area, flange connection to the casing pipe coming out of the ground, wall mount or just some kind of lightweight option for seasonal use.

Based on the expected operating conditions, it is possible to determine the design features of the product. So, for installation only for the summer period, you can purchase a lightweight plastic version. If a permanent installation is expected, then the choice is made in favor of cast iron or stainless steel. In addition, for temporary use, you should purchase a model that is easy to quickly install and dismantle on your own.
Finally, for many owners, the external decorative effect of the pump is also a determining factor - this has already been mentioned in the article. Of course, the purchase of a pump that can decorate the site will entail much more serious cash costs.

The value of the pressure created by the pump is very often not evaluated - such devices, as a rule, are not designed for pumping water through external pipelines. Water from them is most often collected in substituted containers.

Brief overview of models of hand pumps for wells

The table below shows the characteristics of several popular models that can be found in the range of our stores.

Model name	Brief description of the model	average price
Hand pump "Dachny"	A very popular model among owners of their own sites. piston type. Stainless steel body. Height with fully raised stem - 750 mm. The height of the spout above the mounting level is 330 mm. The outer diameter of the cylinder is 125 mm. Provides lifting of water from wells and boreholes with the location of the mirror at a depth of up to 8 meters. Support platform with 10 mm mounting holes. The suction pipe diameter is 1 inch. Productivity for 1 cycle - 1.25 liters. Guaranteed service life of the piston seal is 3 years. Weight - 5.9 kg.	5900 rub.
Pump for wells "NR-3M"	Inexpensive hand pump with average performance. The cylinder and piston are impact-resistant polymer. Valves and seals - rubber. The rest of the parts are primed steel. Productivity for a full cycle - 1.5 liters. Provides lifting from a depth of 2 meters, and when installed at the lower end of the suction pipe, a check valve - up to 5 meters. The diameter of the connecting pipes, inlet and outlet - G 3/4, or, in another version - fittings for a 20 mm hose. Pump dimensions - height - 350 mm, external diameter cylinder - 150 mm. Weight - 4.6 kg.	2500 rub.
Pump for wells "RN-01 NZH"	Hand pump in stainless steel housing. Handle and lever holder - primed and painted steel. Check valve - brass. Allows you to raise water from a depth of up to 5÷6 meters, and with the installation of a check valve at the end of the suction pipe - up to 9 m. Productivity - 1.0 liter per working cycle. The nozzle diameter is G1. A flanged connection to the suction pipe is possible from below. Height - 1000 mm, outer diameter of the cylinder - 150 mm. Weight - 8 kg. Spare piston ring included.	6500 rub.
Borehole hand pump type "BSD"	Manual borehole pump in cast iron. A characteristic feature is an open spout in the form of a gutter. The height of the water rise is up to 6 meters, and with the installation of a check valve at the bottom of the suction pipeline - up to 9 meters. Productivity - 0.5 liters per working cycle. The installation platform has a side window, which allows the suction pipe to be brought in from the side. Suction pipe connection - G1¼ . Pump dimensions - 390 × 240 × 200 mm. The spout height above the installation plane is 200 mm. The diameter of the mounting holes is 7 mm. Weight - 7 kg.	3200 rub
Hand pump type "BSB-75"	Cast iron borehole piston pump, consisting of, in fact, the pump, and the base, which allows you to place the working bodies at a convenient height. The height of the water rise is 6 meters, and with a check valve at the end of the suction pipe - up to 9 meters. The height of the pump assembled with the base is 1320 mm, with the height of the spout above the mounting plane - 930 mm. Weight - 31 kg.	6800 rub.
Hand pump for wells type "BSK"	Cast iron pump with decorative design artistic relief casting. It becomes not only a source of water, but also a decoration of the site. Lifting height - 6 / 9 (with check valve) meters. Productivity - up to 30 liters per minute. The connecting size of the soaking-up branch pipe - G1¼. Pump dimensions - 600×240×160 mm. The spout height above the installation plane is 230 mm. The diameter of the mounting holes is 10 mm. Pump weight - 15 kg.	6400 rub.
Hand pump type "BSM"	The largest of the samples of manual borehole piston pumps on sale has an additional cast-iron base. Fastening to the prepared site - a support flange with 10 mm holes. The connecting size of the soaking-up branch pipe - G1¼. Water lifting height - 6 or 9 m (with non-return valve). Productivity - 0.8 liters per working cycle. Height in the assembled state - 1560 mm. The spout height above the base is 1010 mm. The weight of the assembled pump is 33 kg. Comfortable ergonomic handle. Artistic casting of the case.	14800 rub.
Manual rod pump "NR-4-16"	Hand pump for wells, allowing you to raise water from a depth of up to 16 meters. Minimum Diameter casing pipe - 100 mm. The set includes 8 pieces of two-meter connecting pipes and rods for increasing the depth of immersion. The pump capacity is 1 liter per working cycle. General dimensions - 17560 × 230 × 1430 mm. Complete weight - 127 kg. Fastening - to the head of the well with a diameter of 150 or 160 mm, with fixation on bolts.	27600 rub.
Hand pump "RK-2"	Vane type hand pump. Cast iron body, steel handle. The maximum water lifting height is up to 7 meters using a non-return valve on the suction pipe. Productivity - 0.4 liters per double stroke of the handle. Accession - coupling or flange, 1 inch. Dimensions (including the handle) - 210 × 210 × 500 mm. Weight - 8.5 kg. There are eyelets for wall placement.	5500 rub.
Manual Diaphragm Pump "D40"	Diaphragm pump, self-priming. The maximum water lifting height is up to 6 meters. Productivity - up to 50 liters per minute. The body and branch pipes are cast iron, the diaphragm and valve parts are oil and petrol resistant rubber. Ball valves resistant to wear and self-cleaning. The operating position of the pump is vertical, with the handle down. Eyelets on the body are provided for fastening to vertical surfaces. Dimensions - 250×250×650 mm. Weight - 13.5 kg. It is recommended that you immediately purchase an additional replacement membrane and valves when buying.	7200 rub. Replaceable membrane - 1500 rubles. Ball valve assembly - 500 rubles.

How to equip a well for a hand pump

It would be logical to complete this publication by considering the question on which well hand pumps for water are most often installed.

A very common situation is when a plot received for private construction does not yet have any communications, and a natural reservoir is too far away to be able to organize the supply of water from it. But water is needed not only for drinking or washing - it is still quite possible to take a small supply for these purposes with you. But after all, water is, in a certain sense of the word, also a “building material”, since many construction operations intended to be used in one way or another.

The most reasonable solution is to try to organize an "Abyssinian" well on your site. If this succeeds, then the problem of water will be completely removed - a good "Abyssinian" will satisfy construction, and then, after settlement, many household or agrotechnical needs.

What is its meaning? If you look at the diagrams of the section of soil layers, you can often see the following picture:

under the layer fertile soil usually there is a clay layer. "One floor below" - sandy loam, and under it a layer of sand saturated with water - perched water. This is the first water horizon, but it is unsuitable for useful use. Firstly, the water here is highly saturated with organic matter and other contaminants that fall on the soil, and secondly, this layer is extremely unstable, and strongly depends on the season and on the settled weather.

Below, under it, there is a water-resistant clay layer, but if you go through it, then there is a high probability of falling into the water-bearing sand horizon, located at a depth of about 5 - 8 meters .. The water in it has already passed high-quality natural filtration, and, as a rule, suitable for a wide variety of applications.

If this layer is thick enough, well saturated with water, then a thin pipe with perforated walls covered with a filter mesh can be immersed in it so that the channel does not become clogged with sand. Water will penetrate into the cavity of the pipe, and from there it can already be pumped out with the same manual borehole pump.

The main element of the "Abyssinian" well is the so-called "needle". This is a piece of pipe with a length of about 1200 mm, with holes drilled in the walls, which are closed with a thin metal stack (galvanized or stainless steel). At the end of the needle, a cone-shaped tip, machined from durable metal, is welded - it is necessary to drive the needle into a drilled well.

The driven-in needle is gradually increased by “packing” pipe sections of the same diameter on top and hammered to the required depth. From above, to the protruding part of the pipe, after carrying out the necessary "commissioning" operations, you can connect a pump - manual or even surface electric.

On sale you can find kits for "Abyssinian" wells, various overall lengths, with a diameter of 1, 1 ¼ or 1 ½ inches.

The probability of getting onto a high-quality shallow sandy aquifer is extremely high. By the way, this technology even got its name because expeditionary forces in Abyssinia (Ethiopia) were supplied with water by a similar method. And this is in a hot, almost semi-desert climate!

How to find the best place for a well or well?
To help in the search for the aquifer come special folk omens and methods, analysis of obvious and hidden signs of close occurrence of water. You can learn more about this by reading our portal article on.

The scheme for creating an "Abyssinian" well, in principle, is simple and proven, but the main snag is to drill a well and get to the aquifer sandy horizon. Without special equipment doing so is almost impossible. It is better not to undertake such a thing on your own, but to invite a team of craftsmen who have a special compact drilling rig and have relevant work experience. Moreover, when drilling, it is necessary, by certain signs, to make sure that a full-fledged aquifer has been caught, and without practice in this matter, it is not surprising to make a mistake and ruin the acquired set.

For example, the process of creating an "Abyssinian well":

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	A typical picture is a territory for building, without any "benefits of civilization". Someday there will be a lively village, but for now there is no water or electricity. It is difficult to build without water, so it was decided to equip the "Abyssinian" well.
	The usual equipment of the brigade is a compact drilling rig. The design may vary somewhat, but usually it is a bed with two vertical guides along which a caliper with an electric drive and a gearbox moves. A drill 1 meter long is inserted into the gearbox and fixed with a pin - and drilling begins. Power is provided by a mobile gasoline generator.
	The drill gradually "bites" into the ground.
	According to the rock raised up by the auger, one can judge the passage of soil layers. First, fertile soil
	The drill went down almost a meter. Passes through a layer of loam and clay.
	The drill has almost completely sunk into the ground, and it's time to build it up. First, a pin is knocked out that fixes the drill in the gearbox coupling.
	The support of the installation rises, and a new section is inserted into the lower drill.
	The connection is provided by a special clamp-bracket.
	Then the caliper is gently lowered so that the gearbox clutch is put on the installed drill. The connection is fixed with a pin.
	Further, the drilling process continues. All links have a standard length of 1 meter, and this is very convenient from the point of view that you can clearly see how deep the drilling has reached.
	Accumulating selectable rock is regularly cleared aside
	Drilling continues in the same order - with a gradual increase in the total length of the drill. As it deepens, the first signs of water will begin to appear. At first, they will be almost invisible - only lumps of slightly moistened clay.
	At a depth of about 5 meters, the signs become more pronounced - liquefied light clay begins to come up.
	The deeper - the thinner, and soon the already selected liquid rock has to be scooped out with a ladle
	Another meter - and the slurry is already literally flowing in a stream: this is clearly the beginning of the aquifer.
	The master at this time constantly checks the outgoing pulp to the touch. It is important to catch when there are no signs of clay left in it, but pure fine sand will go.
	Finally, the master is satisfied with the result. The number of drills used for sinking tells him exactly the depth of the well - this will be necessary for further operations. In the meantime, you need to carefully remove the drills from the well. An electric drive with a gearbox is removed from the caliper. Now moving up along the guides will be used to gradually extend the drill. The drill is stopped with a special bracket, and by moving the caliper up, it is pulled out by one section.
	The section is separated from the one below - and removed to the side.
	The caliper goes down, the next section is hooked - and so on, until everything is removed, up to the lowest drill.
	Here it is, a well, however, so far it is only a hole in the ground. The drilling rig is carefully removed to the side - it has already fulfilled its role.
	You can move on to planting. To begin with, the “needle” is being prepared.
	It is carefully "packed" with pipes, using couplings. To ensure the reliability of the connection, it is better to use linen tow and Unipac paste. You can immediately assemble a "column" of a needle and 5 ÷ 6 meters of pipe. As a rule, such a section enters the well “with a whistle”, without much effort. The only difficulty is to give it a vertical position at first, but in several hands - this is doable.
	Here it is, the end of the casing protruding from the surface. But along the depth of the well, the pipe must be lowered by about one and a half meters.
	Another one and a half meter piece of pipe is packed from above.
	As far as possible, he sinks down by the effort of the workers.
	The last section of deepening always has to be driven in by force, using a headstock or other devices - the masters have their own methods for this. When clogging, the tip of the needle will enter the dense soil and securely fix the casing in the well.
	When clogging, it is very important not to damage the threaded section of the pipe at the end. Are used various devices, and in this case, a special coupling was screwed onto the end, which took the blows on itself, leaving the thread intact. In fact - here it is, a finished well. But so far it is still of little use - it is necessary to “breathe life into the well, that is, pump it, having achieved a steady supply of water upward.
	This is best done with a self-priming surface pump. A pressure hose is screwed onto the pipe - at this stage it will be attached to the pressure pipe of the pump.
	The second suction hose of the pump is lowered into a bucket, which is filled with water.
	Now the task is to pump a good portion of water into the well, so that when it is pumped out, it will cause the needle to self-fill with water from the surrounding aquifer. Water from the bucket (depending on the depth - more may be required) is completely pumped into the well.
	Next up is switching hoses. The suction one is screwed onto the head of the pipe, and the pressure one is temporarily sent to the bucket. The pump is turned on, and at first clean water comes out of the hose. It's too early to rejoice - it's just pumped out previously flooded water.
	As a rule, after this there comes a painful pause: the pump works, but nothing comes out of the hose. "Moment of Truth" - will it work or not? Must earn! After a few “spits”, water begins to come out of the hose - at first it is cloudy and dirty.
	It is advisable at this stage to switch the pump from a short delivery hose to a long hose. It will take quite a long time to pump the well, and there is no need to dilute the mud around it - better water drain away. At first, the flow of water looks, I must say, somewhat frightening - it is so muddy.
	But the well works - and this is the main thing. Gradually, the dirt around the needle is washed up, and the flow of water begins to brighten. Just wait - and it will generally become clean, that is, the well is ready for further use.
	Victory! An uninterrupted source of clean ox on the site has been received!

Now it's quite simple. It remains only to attach the borehole hand pump to the threaded pipe head, not forgetting to put a check valve between them. If there is an urgent need for water, then you can install the pump on hastily, directly attached to the pipe and placed on temporary props or a welded stand.

In time, of course, a good host will carefully consider stationary installation pump, with full fixation of the protruding section of the pipe, with a beautiful and reliable pedestal. And it is best at this stage to immediately provide a branch for the surface electric pump ().

Now the most will be achieved optimal solution: the main water supply to the residential building will be carried out. Well, for gardening, chores, or in cases of problems with the supply of electricity - it will be quite possible to get by with the capabilities of a manual borehole pump.

And at the end of the publication, for those who are always trying to make everything on their own, we offer an interesting video in which House master shares his experience in making a hand pump for a well.

Video: the experience of self-manufacturing a borehole hand pump