Smart metal rabbit cage. Required tools and materials. Video "German Rabbit Houses"

In order for your small rabbit breeding farm to flourish, you need to take care not only of breed selection and pet care, but also of such an important detail as a house for rabbits. In fact, a lot depends on how you organize your rabbits. Therefore, studying the issue of assembling a cage for rabbits with your own hands is of paramount importance.

The question of how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands sooner or later arises for every farmer, and we will try to give a detailed and competent answer to it. If you are wondering how to make a rabbit cage, do not rush to take up the tools. First, you need to make a number of preparatory measures, and then build cages for rabbits.

Rabbit cage designs come in many varieties and vary by breed and farm size. That is, saying simple language, cages for rabbits, the drawings of which are suitable for a dwarf individual, are not the best choice for breeding large breeds. Find useful information on this issue not difficult, especially considering the fact that drawings of rabbit cages are provided absolutely free. In particular, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with such a book as drawings of cages for Mikhailov's rabbits, as it contains a lot of useful information.

Before you start building a cage for rabbits, you need to decide on its territorial location, as this will affect the efficiency of the process in the future. Choose a location surrounded by trees as this will help protect the rabbits from the cold in winter period.

Of course, you can buy cages for rabbits in specialized stores, but as practice shows, they are far from always different. good quality... Often, the design of purchased cages is not created taking into account the specifics of breeding, and such products are more decorative than effective. That is why most rabbit breeders choose to assemble a cage for rabbits with their own hands, as this allows you to take into account all the necessary nuances.

Keep in mind that a rabbit cage is not easy wooden box rather complex structure- in which feeders and drinkers are implemented. Also an important detail is such a factor as the location of the cell. That is, the content of rabbits on the street under a canopy, and the location of the cage in the room, suggest different types buildings.

DIY rabbit cage construction

And so you have decided on the location, and it's time to talk about the first cage that you will build for your pets. The first stage of construction will be the choice of materials, since their quality is of great importance. For the manufacture of walls, it is recommended to choose thick boards or plywood. The frame of the rabbit cage and the supports are made of wooden blocks. The mesh from which you will make the floor should have small cells, approximately 1.7 × 1.7 centimeters. For decoration, as a rule, wooden or plastic slats are used, no more than three centimeters wide.

* All material chosen for the construction of the rabbit cage must be perfectly smooth and even, and in no case contain traumatic irregularities.

Speaking about the size of the cage, it does not make sense to name any specific sizes, since they depend on a specific breed of rabbits, and may vary. However, there is a standard below which a rabbit cage should not be built under any circumstances. It is fifty centimeters high, seventy centimeters wide, and one and a half meters long.

When building a cage for rabbits with your own hands, it makes sense to immediately take care of the compartment, into which you can later insert a house for females ready for rounding. It is quite simple to make such a compartment, and in fact it is enough to simply assemble a box without a lid, with an approximate size of 35 by 35 centimeters. A height of 20 centimeters in this case will be quite sufficient. The floor should be of a uniform whole sheet.

Do-it-yourself necessary elements for building a rabbit cage

1.WALLS
The walls of the cage must be made of wood or plywood.

2.FLOOR
For the manufacture of the floor, wooden slats or mesh are used, but do not forget that some breeds have an intolerance to the mesh floor.

3.ROOF
If the location of the rabbit cage is outside, the roof must be tiled. In the room, an element such as tiles is optional.

4. DRINKERS AND FEEDERS
It is best to make feeders and drinkers for rabbits retractable, located outside, so that the pets do not contaminate their contents.

The first stage in the construction of a cage for rabbits with your own hands is the assembly of the frame. The height from the ground to the beginning of the structure is seventy centimeters, the front part is fifty-five centimeters, and the back is thirty-five centimeters.

After assembling the frame, it must be sheathed with plywood or board. Do not forget that it is necessary to make a nest in the rabbit cage, while the floor itself is made solid, and only on top of it is the flooring made of mesh. The compartments are fenced off from each other with a special partition, in which a hole must be made to provide passage for rabbits. As a rule, the roof is made on hinges so that it can be folded back if necessary.

Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, subsistence farming does not lose its relevance to this day. The most profitable and cost-effective way of livestock raising is rabbit breeding. But, like any living creature, the rabbit must have its own comfortable living corner. These animals are kept in special cages placed in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a rabbit cage.

Arrangement of the cell

Such a process will not seem time-consuming, if all the conditions for the premises for breeding rabbits are maintained. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, it is first necessary to determine the size of the cages for the rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one crate will not be enough for all. You need to plan at least three pieces. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.

Space required for 1 head

A detailed drawing showing even the smallest design details will provide you with a reliable building.

There are many ways of constructing how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort to the animals, others are convenient for the owner in terms of financial costs. Each breeder chooses the best option based on their capabilities. But, nevertheless, they often make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any building supermarket, or you can rummage among your old stocks. Consider the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands.

Reticulated rabbitry

There are many varieties of such stands; the following structures have proven themselves best of all:

unsupported cage with supporting struts;
frame cells.

Homemade galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire will serve for the manufacture of such structures. The tops and side sections of the cells will be sufficient with a mesh with links of 25x50 mm. The lower part provides for the use of small cells - in order to avoid slipping of the paws of fluffy animals. Once you have determined the dimensions, you can start building.

In our case, the cage will represent an externally mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.

Step by step manufacturing

The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you need to cut out certain details of the sides, based on the size.

A pre-made template will help you create the same size front and back, which are neatly cut from the web of the mesh roll. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching along their perimeter.

The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a mesh with a fine mesh will serve as the base of the floor.
Initially, the walls are formed by the fasteners.
Next, the base of the cell is established. At the same time, the netting of the front part of the very first cell is removed. A tray for animal waste will be located here.
Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several of them.
The doors are also made using a mesh and are fastened with fasteners.
A mesh ceiling is laid on top of the resulting box.
The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the dimensional drawings are accurate and exceed the cage itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.

Step-by-step photo instructions

The main work is done, now you need to attach ready-made structures to the wall with metal parts and put restraints to prevent the cage from wobbling when the animals are moving. The sides and back are closed plywood sheets, which are cut out in relation to the dimensions of the frame, and not the dimensions of the mesh formations. Now it remains to fill the place of detention with the accessories necessary for the life of the rabbits: feeders, drinkers, a pallet, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a rabbit cage with a netting method.

The rabbitry of Mikhailov

Making cages for rabbits should be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such a development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a well-known rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have an accessible and understandable guide to the stages of building their own at home.

Mikhailov's cage is made according to the already developed drawing projects.

The essence of his technique consists in dividing the cell into three parts: top, bottom and support section, each of which has its own functional accessory. So, the upper part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored until they are removed. The base frame is at the same time the fixing base. And the compartments of Mikhailov's cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and feed, move out a little.

Thanks to this scheme of the place of detention, Mikhailov's rabbitry requires minimal care - about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outdoors all year round.

The housings are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of such rooms for rabbits, differing in appearance, therefore, we highlight the main features of the ratio of cage sizes according to the Mikhailov method:

the total area of one section, accommodating a couple of animals, fluctuates within 1.4 sq. m .;
the height of the cage is 2.1 m, the width is 2.4 m;
each section of the cell is constructed with a width of 0.6 m and a height of 0.7 m;
mother liquors are 0.4 m long, 0.35 m wide, the waste collection cone can be of any size.

The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. supporting structure fixing elements. This achieves the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.

Rabbit farm Zolotukhin

One of the most popular today are cages for rabbits Zolotukhin N.I., a person who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions for keeping animals at home closer to natural features their vital functions. This is how Zolotukhin's cage, economical and fairly simple to create, appeared.

This design saves space, does not require daily cleaning, making it easier for breeders to care.

Let's highlight the main features of N. Zolotukhin's design option:

By using flat slate or a sheet of plywood, the floor is made. The net is only fixed in the floor of the back cover. The pallet is not provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. Most of the feces are collected there. The rest of the feces are scattered by the rabbits on the floor.
The building has a complex structure, including six compartments located on floors. Each higher floor is displaced relative to the floor adjacent to the bottom, equal to the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side connecting the floors is a kind of slope.
The uterus is completely absent. In cold weather, a special shelter is additionally placed for the rabbit and rabbits.

Cleaning is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.

2-tier rabbit cage

Usage multi-storey structures for rabbits at home to this day is the most compact and convenient option breeding rabbits. There is nothing easier how to build do-it-yourself cages for rabbits in 2 tiers.

Assembly diagram

Experienced owners have developed a special instruction, the manual of which contains the following provisions:

wooden blocks are connected, forming four rectangular bases;
using a mesh with small cells, make the floor, then install the side walls;
since the first floor contains trays for feces, for the convenience of their removal, the floor is made pitched;
trays for domestic rabbits are prepared using a bar. The second floor under its base must have a solid plywood sheet to prevent contamination from entering the first floor;
the ceiling is made at the last moment using waterproof materials.

To support two floors, a reliable frame is designed. In order to correctly carry out such a design of a rabbit cage, the drawings must always be kept close at hand. Two-tier cages for rabbits have a "P"-shaped structure planning rule, represented by standard blocks fastened to each other with self-tapping screws.

With such simple techniques, you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which, in terms of their reliability and comfort, will not be inferior to factory designs.

Breeding rabbits on suburban area or a summer residence requires a lot of knowledge about the lifestyle and habits of these animals. Much attention is paid to their diet and diet. At the same time, rabbit houses should not be forgotten, since clean and comfortable housing is the key to the health and well-being of furry pets. There are many designs of rabbit cages made from variety of materials do it yourself. The wooden structures offered to your attention can simplify the care of the animals and will decorate the economic zone.

Simple design rabbit cage

Due to the simplicity of the design, such a cage can be made with minimal experience with carpentry tools. For its manufacture, you will need wooden slats and bars, plywood, metal mesh, bituminous shingles and plexiglass. Despite the fact that this type of cage is not particularly difficult, it looks beautiful and interesting, which will be appreciated by all members of your family.

Assembling the frame of the rabbit cage

To facilitate the process of feeding the animals, the cage is installed on an elevation, constructing an additional stand. The height is chosen so that both adults and children can take care of the animals. In order to have feed and hay on hand, and also not to look for additional storage space for food, the frame is equipped with a spacious shelf.

Rabbit cages blueprints

For the support racks, the cage will need wooden bar with a section of at least 60 × 60 mm and a height of 850 mm.

When cutting wood, do not forget process the edges of the laths... This will avoid splinters and improve the aesthetics of the rabbit cage.

The base frame and shelf support are attached to the main posts. For this, four boards are screwed on with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the frame and at a distance of 372 mm from the floor. It is important to correctly mark and follow the geometry of the structure using a carpenter's square and a level. You should get a flat, stable structure without distortions and curved corners.

To make a cage with an additional compartment, a neat curly cutout is made in the front board of the upper frame. The cut out part is attached to the old place using a piano loop. A narrow reclining part will provide access to the inside of the cage in the future.

On the inner side of the upper and lower frame, they are mounted as spacers additional slats... They eliminate the instability of the structure and serve as a support for the flooring, therefore, they require particularly careful adjustment.

DIY rabbit cage step-by-step instruction... Photo

In the corners of wooden boards or boards used as a shelf and the base of the cage, a cut is made for the support legs. The shields are installed in their places, after which they consider the work at this stage completed.

Main compartment assembly

A rabbit cage should delight the owner not only with its strength and reliability, but also with its attractive appearance. They begin to assemble a cage for rabbits from the front, and step-by-step instructions will help you to understand in detail all the nuances of work with your own hands.

Rabbit cages blueprints

At the first stage, they collect box under the door... To do this, a rectangular frame is assembled from the rails with the help of furniture dowels and self-tapping screws. A groove is cut for vertical movement of the door. A frame of a sliding partition is made with a size slightly larger than the height of the box. Dowels are installed from the outer surface, after which the door is installed in place by inserting the dowels into the prepared slots on the side jambs.

From wooden slats the compartments are mounted on both sides of the opening. Collect the back of the structure, as well as the side walls.

How to make a rabbit cage. Photo

Eight slats, from which the roof rafters will be made, are cut at an acute angle. The rafters are assembled by fastening the pointed elements in pairs, and then finally fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the brackets are removed and the rafters are attached to the base of the roof.

Triangular elements are cut out of a sheet of plywood, which block access from the doorway to the roof. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the central rafters in accordance with the attached diagram.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

The roof is sheathed plywood sheets by cutting them according to the drawing. The back slope is made with a cutout mounted on a piano loop. The fold-down roof section will facilitate access to the interior of the cage.To dock the central part of the front roof slope with the side elements, small sections are cut in its corners.

After the assembly of the base of the rabbit cage with your own hands is completed, the structure is treated with linseed oil, dried, and then painted with one or two layers oil paint... Despite the longer drying period, it will reliably protect the wood from moisture.

How to sheathe the walls and roof

Rabbit cages blueprints

The inner side of all walls, as well as the door of the rabbit cage, are sheathed with their own hands using a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a metal mesh with a cell size of no more than 25 × 25 mm.

First, the ends of the cage are sewn up, and then the front wall is mounted above the doorway.

In order for the design to be convenient to transport, from the sides of the support frame of the frame, the folding handles are screwed.

On the front board of the upper support frame, install gate valve for fixing the narrow reclining part.

The latch is also installed on the cage door.

Decorate the design can be made with the figure of a rabbit cut from plywood. It is painted and then glued or fixed with self-tapping screws on the front wall of the roof.

Protect the piano loop, which provides the mobility of the folding roof part, can be done with a multipurpose adhesive tape. Glued over metal, it will prevent rust and provide reliable operation details.

Using a stapler and metal staples from 8 mm in size, they are attached to the roof sheathing of the rabbit house bituminous shingles.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions. Photo

Using special glue for soft roof, from a long, narrow piece of bituminous canvas, equip roof ridge.

Cut out plexiglass by the size of one of the side walls, after which a latch is mounted in its upper part. If necessary, this element will be able to protect animals from drafts and rain. Plexiglas is installed on the frame, fixing it in the lower part with furniture dowels, and at the top - fixing the latch bolt in a pre-drilled hole.

Small ladders and an inner house are collected for animals. After impregnation with linseed oil, the parts are stained and placed inside the cell.

After the paint is completely dry, the cage is transferred to permanent place, prepare provisions and move the rabbits into their new home.

Despite the fact that rabbits are not particularly demanding animals, it is still better to rely on the opinion of experienced people in the manufacture and placement of the cage.

The main criterion for choosing a place for installing a rabbitry is the absence drafts... In addition, in the summer, animals are better off in the shade, so you will have to equip a shed or place cages in the shed.

We must not forget that when breeding rabbits, you will have to move out young animals, keep pregnant females and males separately, etc., so you will not be able to get by with one cage. It is better that there is always a free room at hand, and the cages themselves should have areas for walking.

Listen to the advice of experienced breeders, and you will not have to correct your own mistakes and miscalculations.

Floor The rabbitry is best made from a net or slats placed 1.5 cm apart. When operating the cage outdoors, they also equip the lower, reclining tier of the floor from the boards.

The roof the cages installed indoors are made of the same material as the walls. On the street, the rabbitry is covered with a waterproof roofing material... It is better not to use tin for this.

On the street, houses for animals are placed on pillars height from 0.5 to 1 m. It is best if there is also a house with a cut-out in the form of a "hole" inside the cage.

The cells are divided into several branches, providing a manhole for animals from one part to another, as well as hinged covers for cleaning individual "rooms".

The dimensions of the rabbitry, in which it is planned to keep the males, make it sufficient for their free range. It must be remembered that males who lead a sedentary lifestyle can become infertile.

For every 3-4 females do separate spacious cage.

Rabbits kept in the same room with a nursing rabbit. At the same time, they keep one cage free nearby, placing the mother there with the smallest animals for additional feeding.

The best material for the rabbitry is wood - boards, slats, plywood, glued panels. They make a power frame and a roof. Depending on the climate and place of installation, the walls of the cages are made of mesh, plywood, slats or boards. In the process of work, special attention is removed finishing materials so that animals cannot be injured by splinters, sharp parts of the net or protruding edges of nails and screws.

Rabbit cage sizes

The dimensions of the cages for breeding rabbits vary widely depending on the size of the animals, the breed, the purpose of the cage (for males, females with children, rabbits, etc.).

For lactating rabbits the size of the cages should be at least 1.70 - 1.85 m in length, 1 m in width and 0.6 - 0.7 from the floor to the lid. The cages are placed at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from the ground on trestles or supports. Animals weighing from 5 kg require rabbitries 1.3-1.5 m long and up to 0.7 m wide. back wall should be 0.4-0.45 m, and the front should be 10-15 cm higher.

Young growth rabbits are placed in group rabbitries, where they contain from 8 to 20 individuals. From 3 to 5 pups that are under 3 months old are moved into individual cages. Older animals are placed no more than 2 - 3 animals per cage. In this case, one individual should have at least 0.5 sq. m area, and the height of the rabbitry should be more than 35 cm.In group cages, one rabbit should have at least 0.2 sq. m, which must be taken into account when making a rabbitry and placing animals.

The sizes of the cage for rabbits. Photo

An adult requires placement minimum size 1 × 0.6 m, 0.6 m high, but it is better to increase these dimensions by 20 - 30%.

The cells are placed in one or two tiers (the so-called shed). Depending on the size of the animals, the width of the shed is made no more than 2 m, and the depth - up to 1 m, setting the cages at a height of about half a meter.

For okrol, a double rabbitry with a mother house is used - a removable feed compartment for keeping animals up to 1 month. The cage is divided into compartments wooden partition with a manhole 17x20 cm.

The main thing is that animals in captivity feel comfortable, therefore it is recommended to follow all the tips for their placement and maintenance.

Rabbit cage designs

The portable bunny house makes it easy to care for and feed the rabbits. It is enough from time to time to rearrange the structure to a place with dense grass - and the animals are provided with food and a clean place for walking.

Photo cages for decorative rabbits

The wooden structure, on the roof of which is equipped with a low box with a moisture-proof bottom, will allow growing seedlings or greens on the roof of the rabbitry. This solution is not only highly practical, but also looks impressive on the site.

Rabbit cage. Photo

A "two-room" animal house with a common feeding area makes it easier to care for the animals and allows you to increase the area intended for them to walk.

Large rabbit cage. Photo

Designs of cages for rabbits, in which animals have access for walking on the ground, are beneficial not only from the point of view of keeping animals, but also from the economic point of view. With a sufficiently large cell volume, its production does not require large material costs.

A triangular hut with an open-air cage is easy to make. For a day, a similar structure is placed in place with thick grass, and at night the cage is removed to a stationary elevation.

The spacious rabbitry, designed for two places, has a presentable appearance due to its spacious design, flexible roof and staining in light colors. Black metal elements complete the picture. door hinges and gate valves.

Big summer house for breeding rabbits allows you to keep up to ten individuals. The high door of the structure allows you to enter inside for feeding, cleaning and examining the animals.

The increased depth cage, divided into two rooms, allows several individuals to be kept in each half. The enlarged patio provides comfort while walking and feeding the animals. Contrast coloration and copper fittings of the cell add elegance and presentability to it.

Cage for decorative rabbits. Photo

Rabbit cages, installed at a height, are often performed in the same building as the aviary. Common roof saves material during construction of the rabbit cage and provides comfortable and spacious housing.

Rabbit house of rectangular type with shed roof very easy to manufacture and provides all the convenience for animals and their care. A simple rabbit cage can be made from wooden blocks and battens, planks, and wooden lining, and cover the roof with slate or soft roof.

Diy Zolotukhin cells

Cages designed by the Russian rabbit breeder Zolotukhina gained immense popularity due to their simplicity, low cost and ease of caring for the animals.

The benefits of this type of cell include:

sloped slate or plywood floor with mesh near the back wall;
three-tiered construction of six cells. The shift of the cages to the width of the mesh in the floor makes cleaning easier;
the possibility of arranging a mother liquor in an ordinary cage;
a specially designed feeder that does not require opening the door when dispensing food;
low cost.

Improvements made by an experienced rabbit breeder bring rabbits closer to the conditions in which they are in their natural habitat.

Design features

To make a cage for Zolotukhin rabbits, you can use wooden planks and slats, slate sheets, sheet metal, polycarbonate panels, metal mesh.

The frame of the structure and partitions are made of wood, and the floor and roof are made of flat slate. The doors and a small part of the floor at the rear wall are upholstered with a net. Wooden elements structures are sheathed with tin so that the rabbits do not gnaw them.

Rabbit cage size:

cage width - 2000 mm;
the height of the three-tier structure is 1500 mm;
depth - from 700 to 800 mm;
doors - 400 × 400 mm;
floor mesh width - 150-200 mm;
the difference in the level of the front and rear parts of the floor is from 50 to 70 mm.

Drawings of Zolotukhin's cells. Photo

Each of the three levels consists of two cells, separated by two plank partitions, between which hay is stored. The floor, aka the roof for the lower tier, is made of slate. The back of the floor is made of mesh for a width of up to 200 mm. Each upper cell is advanced by the same amount relative to the lower one so that feces are removed to the floor or soil. The back wall is made of polycarbonate and is installed in an inclined manner.

The exact dimensions for the manufacture of cages are not needed, the scheme given by the rabbit breeder is sufficient. This structure is a construction with a mother liquor, therefore, for the usual keeping of rabbits, the wall with an opening will need to be replaced with a solid wooden shield.

The door of the mother liquor is not made from the grid, since the nest needs darkening and shelter from the draft. To prevent the young from falling out when cleaning or feeding, a board 10 centimeters wide is nailed in the front of the shelter.

The design with a fenced-off queen cell makes it easy to expand the space for growing rabbits. To do this, it is enough to remove the plank partition.

V winter time Zolotukhin sets in a cage mother-hole... It is a wooden box with an increased rear wall height. This allows you to create the necessary expansion in the depths of the rabbit hole. The opening of the mother liquor is cut in such a way that there is no sill between the box and the floor of the cage.

Sizes of the winter mother liquor of the Zolotukhin cage for rabbits:

upper and Bottom part- from 300 × 300 to 400 × 400 mm;
front wall - 160 mm;
back wall - 260 mm;
opening height - 150 mm.

The feeder is a long tray that takes up 2/3 of the cage's length. Its front wall is doubled in comparison with the back wall, and the bottom slopes into the cage at an angle of up to 35 °. The feeder is mounted on a rod hinge, which allows the tray to be installed in the door. This eliminates the need to open the cage when feeding and makes it easier to clean the pan of feed residues.

DIY rabbit cages. Video

As you can see, making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is quite simple. At the same time, it is important to ensure the convenience and safety of pets, as well as provide for ease of feeding and cleaning.

As you probably know, rabbit breeding is quite a lucrative activity - in recent times quite a few people are interested in rabbit breeding. But any breeder needs to start somewhere. When there is a certain "basic" knowledge on this topic, then the obvious question arises: where to get a cage for your future pets?

Rabbits are not among the animals for which it is necessary to create any exceptional conditions. Therefore, it is easier to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands than to buy from someone already used and sold as unnecessary, or to order its manufacture. Homemade cage will take into account all the features of its location and will save a lot of money. And the marriage of the manufacturer can be avoided - after all, for himself, any person will try to do it efficiently.

Choosing a place and material for the cage

You need to start by choosing a place for the rabbitry. The main criterion when choosing such a place is its protection from wind and drafts.

In addition, it must be borne in mind that cages are needed for breeding rabbits. different types... Some will contain pregnant females, others - rabbits. There should be separate cages for males. Therefore, it turns out that a whole "residential complex" will have to be built. In addition, cages can be both outdoors and indoors. The cages themselves can have room for "walking", although they can be built without it.

Before starting construction, you need to choose a material for building cells. The use of iron is not recommended. All parts subject to stress (frame, supports) must be assembled from wooden blocks. For walls, either boards, or plywood, or mesh are used. It depends both on the climate and on the location of the rabbitry - on the street or in the house.

The mesh should be chosen with small cells. Finishing strips are used from wood or plastic. It is necessary to carefully process all the wooden parts of the cage, literally "polish", otherwise such a dwelling for rabbits will become traumatic.

The floor is best made from mesh or slats. In the latter case, they should be laid so that there is about 1.5 cm between them. If the cage is on the street, then a double floor is made. First, the boards are laid, and then from above, at a certain height, the mesh or slats are fixed. This is necessary so that animal waste does not accumulate on the floor.

The roof of the house is made of the same material as the walls. But if the cage is in the open air, then the grid is naturally excluded. For "street" cells, the roof must be additionally covered (slate,). Metallic coating should not be used, as the iron will heat up under the sun, and the rabbits will become uncomfortable.

Exists different breeds these fluffy animals, therefore, there is no single standard for the dimensions of the dwelling. You should focus on the minimum minimum for the size of the cage: 150 × 70x70 (in cm). If it is decided to place the cages outdoors, then they should be installed "at a height" (on supports). So it is more convenient to care for rabbits, and there will be a guarantee against penetration of rodents into the cage. The cages that are supposed to be placed in the room should be made in the form of houses. Wild relatives of domestic rabbits live in burrows, so this “call of the ancestors” must be taken into account.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbits should be provided in such a way that the animals cannot contaminate them. If they are installed inside (permanently), then they must be equipped with covers. Can be made and retractable, suspended.

Now, with this knowledge, you can start building cells. Here are the dimensions for medium-sized animals. If the back wall is 70 × 50 cm, then the front should be slightly larger (for example, 80 × 55). The whole cage is partitioned into compartments, between which there should be a rabbit manhole. The lid needs to be made hinged. This will make it much easier to care for the animals and clean their homes.

it general recommendations for building cells. As already mentioned, more and the design depends on many factors: conditions of detention (house, outdoors), climatic conditions, the number of animals and much more. However, there are rules that must be followed regardless of the characteristics of the rabbitry:

the size of the cage for males should be such that the animals have enough room to move. If the rabbits are cramped, then they will simply "shake off". It can go so far that there will be no offspring from them;
for 3 - 4 rabbits, you need to make a separate cage, and a spacious one. When breeding rabbits, small rabbits are kept with mothers who feed them;
one cell must be free. The fact is that some rabbits do not reach the desired weight during the period of being together with their mother. Therefore, they are then fed separately while their mother prepares for the next round.

Building cages for rabbits involves certain questions: how many and what breed of rabbits you will breed, whether you will be breeding. After that, we already choose the type of aviary and start work. We use the most affordable materials - plywood or wood, mesh and slate. Since the rabbits will gnaw the cells from the inside, we do not use in our work what can harm their health: chemical antiseptics, materials with metal shavings.

The main types of aviaries - what are they in common and how are they different?

Rabbits are capricious animals. The aviary can be located both indoors and on outdoors... But street cages suitable only for the southern regions, otherwise the eared ones will freeze in winter. The optimum temperature for keeping rabbits is from 10 to 20 degrees. Drafts should be avoided in aviaries, direct sun rays and humidity above 75%. Considering all this, find the most optimal place and start choosing the type of aviary.

There are several types of cages for rabbits:

simple cells, with or without a queen cell; with or without an open-air cage;
cells of I. N. Mikhailov;
cells of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Regardless of the type of enclosure, it is placed at a height of at least 70 cm from the ground in one or more tiers. This can be done using high legs or wall mounts... Thus, rabbits will be protected from rodents and other animals, and the air in the premises will be better circulated. The size of a rabbit's house depends on breed, gender and age.

Simple cells - advantages and disadvantages

To make aviaries with their own hands, they try to take natural materials eg boards. Since rabbits chew on everything they come across, chipboard should not be used. It is both harmful to animals and will quickly crumble. Often the inside of the rabbit shelter is protected from the teeth of animals. iron cladding... But this can be done only if the temperature of the content is stable both in winter and in summer. Otherwise, the iron will be very hot from the sun or cool in winter.

Particular attention is paid to the floor of the aviary. Rabbit urine is very caustic and therefore corrodes wood. Most often, the floor is made of mesh. Sometimes a lattice of wooden slats is stuffed. This will allow all stool to flow downward. It will be much easier to clean the cages, which means that rabbits are less likely to get sick.

When making cages for decorative rabbits, they do not use a net, because due to the lack of pads on their legs, they simply cannot sit on such a floor for a long time.

Attach the mother house to the enclosures if you plan to breed rabbits. It is in the mother liquor that the female gives birth and nurses the rabbits. Only when they get stronger does she move to the main room. The quality and quantity of offspring is affected by the attached open-air cage, since the high mobility of individuals contributes to their reproduction.

Mikhailov's cages - rabbit mini-farm

Mikhailov's design is more complex aviaries suitable for large households. They are often used in industry, helping to significantly reduce labor costs. The construction of such an enclosure is patented, has automatic cleaning and feeding, heated queen cells. Most often it is a three-level house with a middle floor for feeding and an upper floor for walking. It is quite difficult to build it yourself, it takes a good construction experience and significant financial costs.

Zolotukhin cells - saving space and building material

Zolotukhin cells are easier to manufacture. Their main distinctive feature the fact that the floor is made with a slope. For it, not the usual mesh is used, but plywood or slate. The mesh is installed only at the very wall of the cell. According to research, rabbits in 90% of cases relieve themselves at the walls. Zolotukhin's design takes up little space, the cells in it are arranged in three rows of two each. This saves both space and material to work with. Such aviaries are well suited for keeping a large number rabbits, it is impractical to use them for several individuals.

Making an ordinary cage

To save material and space, the cages are made at least paired. For the base, a board with a length of 3 m by 0.7 m is taken.This way you can fit two compartments of 1.5 meters long. These cage sizes are suitable for young animals or males. For females, a smaller size is enough. First of all, you need to prepare dimensional drawings based on advice and illustrations.

To manufacture the specified structure, you will need:

2 sheets of plywood (1.5 x 1.5 meters);
10 three-meter bars (30 by 50 mm);
3 m mesh with 15 mm meshes;
screws and tools for work.

The mesh size in the used mesh should not exceed 20 mm, otherwise the rabbits will get stuck in them.

Before making a homemade aviary, many farmers advise treating the tree with antibacterial impregnations. It is worth choosing the safest formulations, since otherwise you can poison the animal. First of all, a frame with a height of 1.2 in the front and 1 meter in the back is made from the bars.

Then the floor is hemmed with a net. It is not necessary to reach the edges with the net, the queen cells will be located there, and the floor in them is made without holes. The back wall is made of plywood, fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars. On the edges, mother liquors are also made of plywood. The ceiling in them is slightly lowered so that they look more like a hole. A small hole is made in the side wall, with a diameter of 16 centimeters. Such a mother cell can be made removable if desired.

A feeder is made in the center. It is more convenient to divide it into two parts: for feed and for hay. The first is a tall box with a bowl base. And the second is a trapezoidal mesh box.

The roof is made of plywood with gaps of 5-10 centimeters. You can make it in two parts, leaving a gap in the middle. It will be convenient to fill the feeders in it. Then the doors are made using bars and mesh.

Following the same step-by-step instructions, you can make a cage in two or three floors. But in this case, the roof is covered with some kind of protective material. For example, upholstered with sheet iron or polycarbonate. Then your rabbit house will last longer.

Making a cage Zolotukhin

Making an aviary using the Zolotukhin method with your own hands is not much more difficult than building an ordinary cage. To do this, you will need:

wooden beams;
net;
boards;
sheet metal;
polycarbonate;
slate.

An open-air cage of the following dimensions will be built: 2 m wide, 1.5 m high, 80 cm deep. The floor slope is 5 centimeters, a 20-centimeter strip of mesh will be located at the back wall.

First, we build a similar frame for the aviary. We leave a place for the sennik in the middle. But the floor, unlike a regular cage, is not lined with mesh, but with durable slate. Do not forget to indent 20 centimeters from the back wall.

The rear walls are made of polycarbonate. They need to be fixed at an angle so that the upper part of the wall joins the slate edge of the floor of the next floor. And at the very top tier, it is straight. This pattern allows the rabbit droppings to roll down the walls.

On the sides of the structure, closed queen cells are made in the same way as for a normal cage. All other walls and doors of the enclosure are made of mesh.

The feeder in the Zolotukhin model is also not simple. It is inserted directly into the door and is held in place by hinged nails. This allows you to add feed and clean the trough without opening the door. It takes up about 2/3 of the door width. The outer wall of the trough is twice as high as the inner one.

It is not for nothing that Zolotukhin's cells have long been very popular: they are simple to manufacture and convenient to maintain.

It is best to start building enclosures from the very simple option... Later, given the experience gained, you can move on to more complex structures, including to Mikhailov's mini-farm.