Ruberoid or slate. Battle of roofing materials. Laying the wave slate with your own hands: the order of preparatory and installation work on slate laying in several ways is better to put under the slate on the roof

A couple of dozen years ago, many houses had roofs from slate. He was chosen for the cheaper and relative simplicity of laying, while many of these roofs still serve. However, it is often necessary to insulate the roof under the slate, and how to do it, they know very few. In addition, there are many problems associated with the peculiarities of such a roofing material as slate with the creation of the heat insulating layer.

Slate has a wavy shape and put the insulation close to its surface will not work. This is the bottom of the main problems, since creating a dense heat insulating layer in this case will be difficult, especially when using fibrous insulation materials. It will be necessary to mount a special system of cranial bars and crates so that the insulation is to rest in the installation.

The second complexity is waterproofing the material that retains the heat. The slate waves go along the entire plane of the roof and wet air freely falls in them, which is capable of bringing any insulation from the discharge of fibrous - moisture and the efficiency of the material can be accumulated in them. Therefore, it is necessary to provide high-quality waterproofing.

Ruberoid, nailed directly to the roof shade, was used as an insulator from water before laying slate. However, over time, it very quickly comes into disrepair and serve as a full-fledged protection against water. You will have to fix on the rafters another layer of waterproofing materials. It can even be a simple polyethylene film.

However, there will immediately arise with the discharge of excessive moisture from the insulation layer. It is necessary to fix the vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane so that small ventilation channels are preserved between it and the roofs, according to which the wet air will go out. Moreover, do it, it is necessary to accurately carefully so as not to damage the protective film.

Selection of insulation

Having understood with the protection of the material maintaining the heat, it is necessary to go to one of the most important issues - the choice of insulation. It needs to be chosen in accordance with the requirements that are presented to it. At the same time, in different cases it will be different requirements.

For houses, accommodation in which is not constantly, quite a thin layer of material - from 50 millimeters. It will save heat at the time while the house is heated and quickly will give it to him after the heaters will be turned off or goes out.
Permanent housing requires a different approach - it is necessary to maintain heat as efficient and the layer of the insulation must be 100 millimeters at least.

These data are true for the mineral wool layer - the most sought-after and popular insulation. However, there are other options for insulation materials. For example - polystyrene foam. It is easy, convenient in the installation and well will retain heat. But, he has enough disadvantages that will block advantages in the form of low cost and ease. This is a very combustible and burning substances material in melting and burning. In addition, many people are allergic to the smell of polystyrene foam. So, for technical structures, it is suitable, and it is better not to use it for housing.

The ideal solution for slate roofs can be sprayed polyurethane foam. This is essentially sprayed insulation, covering the entire treated surface with a dense layer, without cracks and gaps. When using it, it will be necessary to ensure only the absence of end-to-end slots and holes in the roof and from the frontal side. The only drawback is the absence of air exchange between the external environment and the processed room. We will have to think about good ventilation.

Another option of how to insulate the slate roof from the inside can be the use of bulk insulation type of claympsite, which are stacked on the external surface of the overlap. Such a decision will not allow you to make a warm attic, but, the insulation of residential premises will be very effective. The most modern material of this category will be an eco-friendly, which can be simply scattered over the surface of the overlap and cover with waterproofing film outside.

Today, this issue is asked more and more developers. The fact is that the cold roofing system allows you to build a residential building for relatively small money, when a warmed roof requires tremendous costs as financially, so in terms of forces and time. Using that such a system in a sense is better, many developers wondered, and whether vapor barrier is under the cold roof?

Cold roof construction in a residential building

Many developers who wish to save some part of the money on construction, seek to acquire the cheapest materials, but that the quality of the whole building does not suffer from it. This is possible if you use primitive two skate as a rafter system, as a coating professional flooring, and the roof is cold.

The design features of such a roof can be listed on the fingers, since there is no need to lay the thermal insulation material, a vapor insulation layer and other components that are often found on insulated roofs. If you are all doubtful in savings, you can say with confidence that the cold version will be at a cost of 50-60% less, insulated design. In addition, work can be carried out independently, therefore, the savings will increase even more.

Cold roof pie, in most cases, includes the following products:

Stropile legs
Waterproofing material
Controvershet
Okeekhet
Profiled metallic sheet

Is it necessary for waterproofing under the metal tile of a cold roof?

It is worth noting that all metal surfaces have one similar feature, they collect condensate. Waterproofing, which is part of the roofing cake with a cold roof, fix this problem and protects the room from the incoming moisture both outside and from the inside. Many developers in the construction of a warmed roof are advised by their familiar not to lay a vapor insulation layer if they will build a building with a cold roof type. They think that the cold will remove the condensate, which is visible on metal products, but is very mistaken.

Condensate appears due to the temperature difference between the roofing room and the external environment. Naturally, when the attic is not heated and not insulated, then the difference will be small, but still it is sufficient, in order to provoke the selection of moisture from the air. As you can see condensate, it will be formed regardless of the type of roof, therefore, the question in the question at the beginning of the item can be answered uniquely: yes, you need.

As an example, the economic buildings can be given, the owners of which are not very careful about their service life. In such buildings, roofing cake is most primitive and even violates the construction standards and rules. Most often, roofing pie consists of rafters, discharged crate and roofing. All layers of vapor insulation and waterproofing were simply thrown into. Despite this fact, this building can simultane significantly a long period, and may be the opposite, fall apart after a couple of years. Here already as lucky, but why risk if you can do everything in a qualitative way?

In residential buildings, it is impossible to risk, as someone's life can depend on this. I do not exaggerate, because if the condensate will affect the rafter system and other elements of the roof for a long time, then it simply destroys them, which can lead to the fall of the entire roofing cake.

IMPORTANT: If at the beginning of construction, you decided to build a cold roof, but in the future, after a certain period, you will warm it up, then the microporphic film will be advisable as a waterproofing product. Its properties are practically no different, but on the price tag it is much lower membranes.

Waterproofing and ventilation of the cold roof

If you are placing a microporphorized product, then such a layer will block access from the outside, but at the same time water vapor can easily undergo this site. It can be said that laying of vapor insulation products on roofing rods in this case is optional. After penetrating the pair inward, it turns out to be a waterproofing material and a metal coating, where it is removed by natural ventilation.

Important: When a dense waterproofing film is used, delaying water vapor, this leads to a significant increase in air humidity and, as a rule, in the room.

With increased air humidity, condensation processes begin, thus moisture accumulates on the reverse side of the film penetrates all the roofing materials. In connection with this fact, for the construction of a cold roof it is not recommended to use such materials as: polyethylene and polypropylene, rubberoid, as well as pergamine.

The ventilation system of cold roof is quite simple. To create it, gaps are left, which, as a rule, are along the cornese swell. Air masses pass through them, collect all the moistened air and remove it through a cold triangle, located in the ridge of the roof.

The counterclate is a design to provide additional ventilation. Most often it can be found on complex roofing systems, where products with a high degree of waterproofing are used as a cover, for example, metal, bitumen tiles and others. The gap, which is created using the installation of the Contract Tank allows fresh air to dry the roofing pie on both sides, so the designs with such a pie serve significantly longer than the rest.

Cold roof. Does waterproofing needed on economic buildings?

First of all it is worth noting that economic buildings differ significantly from residential buildings both by their structure and volume. The vast majority of developers try to save on the construction of secondary structures, so the question of waterproofing is relevant than ever. Before answering the question, let's deal with the coating. To date, professional flooring is one of the cheapest materials, so I will talk about buildings covered by it.

Manufacturers of different countries seek to take into the world such products, so that she began to use the whole world. If you are a fan of professional flooring, then today, such is a metal sheet with anti-condensate coating.

In its appearance, it is practically no different from his analogues. From the inside the synthetic composition is applied, it is like felt. Due to the large number of pores, this material is capable of detaining in a square meter to 1 liter of water. After the surface has appropriate moisture, ventilation takes into business and if it is completed according to all the rules and standards, the drying process does not take much time.

Thanks to the installation of such a "cunning" coating, the need to lay a vapor insulating and waterproofing layer is removed, but it should be understood that the weight of such a coating will vary depending on weather conditions. Making the necessary calculations is very important to take into account these parameters and use them in the calculations. It is worth noting that the finished roof will be much cheaper, because it will not be almost half of the roofing cake.

Installation of waterproofing for a cold roof

So, based on the information obtained above, you realized that the waterproofing material is laid regardless of the type of roof and the functional purpose of the construction. However, if you wish to save, you can use roofing with an anti-condensate layer, but not all people love metal coatings, so I will now tell you the general principle of laying waterproofing.

First of all, an inexperienced roofer should repeat the safety technique and the principle of operation at height. After that, it dresses in special uniforms, which should include the following: personal protective equipment, good shoes with non-slip soles and mounting belt.
After the rafter legs fastened in their places, you can start laying a vapor barrier layer. It is attached to the rafters with a construction stapler and pressed the crate. With a small scope of the material strips are placed across the skate, and on the highly spontaneous rods along. To improve the quality of laying this layer, the joints are missing bitumen or are sampled by double tape.

Important: Before the device, the crates is very important to process its elements with special protective solutions, which will increase the degree of fire fire and secure it from rotting.

The following is the counterclaim. It creates the necessary air layer, which will remove moisture from roofing pie.
The waterproofing material is placed on top of the conservalet.
After that, they start the installation of sheets of professional flooring.

Most developers seek to overlap as much as possible with one strip of the proflist. This is justified by the fact that there is a smaller amount of joints, therefore, the waterproofing qualities of the whole roof increase significantly. You can make all the work on your own, but to increase efficiency it is better to invite 1-2 partners.

During the construction or repair of a private house, the roof improvement is one of the most important stages. If it is incorrectly designing, the precipitates will accumulate on it, which will be an excessive load and will contribute to damaging the roofing material. If it is incorrect to put the roof, then moisture will fall into the seams and over time it will go to the house, and if you do not insulate the roof from the inside, the cold air will quickly get into the room and will not give it to hardly warm it with any means, that is, live in such conditions The year will be impossible.

Physical factors: Impact

Any house that is used under housing must meet certain requirements in order to live in it, it was cozy and comfortable. It is important to properly lay the foundation so that the house does not give a shrinkage and did not crack, insulate it and build a roof. The selection of the coating is very important, since it depends on it, which applies to the house, time to perform work on overlapping and cost. Among all this, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the inner side of the roof so that the construction of the house remains as reliable as possible, and the tenants felt comfortable at any time of the year.

In different climatic conditions, a variety of factors affect the construction.

For our latitudes will be characteristic:

rain precipitation;
snow, cereals and similar phenomena;
hail;
roof icing;
active sun;
strong wind.

To withstand all these negative factors, the roof must be covered with sufficiently dense materials, which will be able to securely protect the house for many years.

A private house is a design that consists of the main floor and the attic. If the roof is not insulated, then the ceiling takes up to 15% of the heat from the room in the cold time, which causes the need to raise the rooms. In addition, having a warmed attic, this space, if you wish, you can make a residential and use as a certain destination room. In a large family, this is the perfect option.

Processes inside

In order to properly warm the private house and make the roof with a full-fledged protective mechanism for both the main premises and for the attic, you need to be able to correctly choose a material for insulation. Typically, the selection occurs based on the physical processes occurring inside, under the roof.

Most important include several.

Heat exchangewhich occurs as a result of different temperatures in the house and beyond. If the roof is not insulated, then part of the heat leaves through the roof, and the insulation prevents this process and retains the optimal indices indoor indicators.
Moisture exchangewhich arises from the person himself, his breathing, evaporation from body temperature to cooking processes, when the pairs rise to the ceiling, carrying moisture particles that are derived through the roof. If the roof is insulated, the level of humidity remains optimal, and unnecessary smells can be removed using ventilation.

When the roof insulation can be removed from the temperature drops inside the room, because the insulation has its own temperature, which is often slightly higher than that on the street, and does not give the heat of the building to outward, which will relieve the need for additional heating, which requires reserve financial resources.

The insulating layer helps to avoid condensatewhich is formed when hot and cold air contacts, because styling it together with the insulation will help preserve its appearance and efficiency. Properly performed works increase the service life of the construction almost twice and minimize the need for repair work every year.

Necessity or whim?

A private house often has a scope roof that forms an attic space on top of the main residential floor. If there is no insulation, then living in such conditions will be very uncomfortable due to the lack of heat in the cold season. If the attic is made in the form of a residential floor - the same attic, then the process of insulation should be mandatory.

Any roofing material will not be able to protect the way the foam, mineral wool or other type of coatings. In addition to the insulation itself, it is important to use a vapor barrier film that can cope with all sorts of evaporation.

If you ignore the installation of the insulating coating, except the cold in the house, problems with a rapid roof system will very soon begin, which will vote and the risk of collapse. The same effect can be observed with incorrect installation technology or inaccurate selection of insulation. If it is incorrect to choose the thickness of the insulation, then instead of protection there will be an opposite effect. Under normal conditions, the temperature difference is carried out from condensate, heat output, which makes it possible to feel comfortable in any weather.

If the thickness is broken and the thin insulation is selected, then it will form an excessively large amount of condensate, which will contribute to rapid rafters and disruption of the microclimate of the room.

Failure to comply with the norms are dangerous and for health, and for safetySince the roof design can collapse. The choice of material that needs to be insulated depends on the most diverse factors that it is important to take into account in order to be able to independently install what you need. If difficulties arise with the choice of insulation or its installation, it is better to contact professionals and get comprehensive consultation and installation assistance.

"Pie" roof: what is he?

Properly designed roof involves a large number of layers of various materials, which are superimposed on each other, which resembles a pie - from here and such a name. The basis of the construction "cake" is rafters that are already laying all the other layers.

To put all the layers correctly, it is important to know their correct sequence that looks like this:

Roof.
The lamp on which the installation of finishing materials will be made. Locked may be skidding or with gaps.
Controlling in the form of bars, which serves to ventilate the space under the roof itself.
Film for waterproofing.
Materials for thermal insulation.
Layer of material for vapor barrier.
Creating a crate where insulating materials and internal lining are mounted.
Material for internal sheat.

If you put "pie" correctly, you can avoid the loss of heat from the residential premises in the cold season, and it will also help with overheating space in a strong heat. The waterproofing layer will contribute to the protection of the insulation from the moisture coming from the outside, and the vaporizolation layer will protect against various types of evaporation.

Scope roof - a fairly common typeTherefore, it will not be difficult for her to choose all the necessary materials. The positive point of high attics is the convenience of work on their insulation and the ability to equip a full living space.

Without additional work, it will be extremely unpleasant in it - in winter it is very cold, and in the summer too hot.

Requirements for materials and their functions

For quality work, it is necessary to choose the correct materials. It is from them that will depend on how accurately it will work out to make comfortable conditions for living and protect the roof support. The choice will depend on the region of the arrangement of the construction, its values, appointments, as well as funds that are on the purchase of materials.

There are four main methods of insulation.

Use of mineral woolWhat is the most frequently used material due to its properties. It is best to acquire a basalt variety. In the store it is advisable to get a quality certificate to know exactly what products are safe and meets all standards and standards. There are varieties having a lighter weight, they are suitable for working in the conditions of independent insulation of the room. The positive qualities of the wool can be considered a non-combustible composition and repulsion of moisture, which corresponds to the main task of this layer. In addition, it does not like rodents, and therefore it is possible to not worry that someone can get into the house, especially on the roof.

Of the minuses, it can be noted quite high cost, but it is completely compensated by positive parties.

Application glass gambles. Some time ago, this material was considered the main for the insulation of the roof, but because of some dangerous properties, she very soon found more secure analogs. The heat insulation is not bad glass gamble, and efficiency is very high. While working with such material it is very important to comply with all safety rules, namely to use a protective suit, gloves, glasses. It is important to close the nasopharynx and eyes so that they do not get pieces of glass dust.

People with allergies will not be able to live in such a house, so you need to be able to correctly choose the type of inner insulation.

Polymeric roof insulation- These are special tiles of foam and expanded polystyrene. They have both advantages and disadvantages. This is an inexpensive version, therefore, it can afford anyone, but if you understand in the minuses, it is worth thinking about the acquisition of such insulation. These materials are very easily ignited, and when burning, a large amount of smoke comes from them, which is very dangerous for a person.

Usually it is resorted to such a type in the case when other options cannot be used.

Warming with clay. This material is very often used for floor insulation and has good thermal insulation properties, but it is very difficult to apply it for the roof due to severe installation. Usually, only experienced workers can cope with it to make the inner warming of the ceiling in the house.

If we consider alternative options, they allocate polyurethane foam, which can be used in two states - in the form of plates and foam. Plates for the arrangement of the ceiling is preferably not taken, because it is inconvenient to work with them and they have a very high cost. At the same time, liquid or foamed polyurethane is easy to apply and has several advantages. With it, you can fill out the voids of any forms and dimensions, the slots and lines of the openings are very well clogged. If the rest of the materials need to cut and seek the maximum fit, then in this case the foam itself falls, the main thing is to distribute it correctly and smoothly.

Very convenient to use foam for roofing from slate or broken structuresWhen there are many different differences on the roof and the framework has significant differences. Another significant advantage can be considered autonomy from hydro and thermal insulation, which are not needed for polyurethane foam. In addition, the material has excellent performance in combating flammability, which ensures the safety of the house.

How to choose?

When choosing material for insulation, it is important to understand what exactly is worth paying attention to which indicators will play a decisive role in the selection of one or another type.

The main criteria are:

Material mass. The heavy insulation will serve as an additional mass on the house itself, which will affect both the roof rafters, and on the construction as a whole. If the house is built from high-quality brick or foam blocks, then enhanced insulation can be allowed, but in this case you need to make rafters more powerful so that they can withstand a lot of weight.
The thermal conductivity indicator. The lower the numbers, the better for the roofing material. If the indicator is approximately 0.04 W / m * C, it will be the best option.
An indicator of resistance to the effects of adverse environmental factors.
The density of the material that affects the heat transfer of the material. If the density is low, the insulation porosity increases, which reduces thermal conductivity and leads to an increase in thermal insulation properties.

Ability to absorb moisture. In order to push moisture, any insulation can be treated with a hydrophobic substance. Some materials are already sold with such impregnation.
Flavoring indicators, which is an essential factor for the arrangement of the roof.
The ability to oppose the low temperature level.
Resistance to the effects of chemical elements.
Ecology material.

Having considered all these indicators, the most optimal option will be the use of mineral and glass gamble. Sold glass and mineral wool in the form of rolls or plates. Minvata insulation is safer, because it is more resistant to ignition.

If we consider modern insulation, the most progressive technology will be the cover of the roof by a fooflex. This is a durable and easy unit that can be easily installed on any surface, be it wall or ceiling. Cut the desired piece can be conventional knife.

In addition, the distinctive are the conditions for storing a foam, which can be on the street at any temperature, but it is better that it was packaging.

It is convenient to use polystyrene, which is also called penplex, in rooms with unfavorable conditions, because it is not afraid of them, it will also begin to develop a variety of microorganisms. A very important feature is the environmental friendliness of this insulation. It does not distinguish any harmful odors and evaporation and is completely harmless for both adults and children.

Preparation

For insulation procedures, it is important to clearly understand what the roof will have to work. Correctly determining the order of work, you can quickly and efficient the roof warming. It is worth considering the materials that will be at hand while working. It is important to understand clearly for yourself what exactly to work and what to do.

If the process of insulation has become fully understood, it is possible to cope with absolutely with any roof, be something from a rural house or a large villa by the sea. In order to carry out insulating work, it is important to prepare the roof itself to this.

For this there is a certain procedure that includes:

inspection of the rafter system so that you can reveal the spoiled boards in time and replace them;
processing of wooden structures by antiseptic;
checking communications if they are located under the roof. It concerns the pipeline and wiring.

As soon as the roof is ready, you need to check the availability of all materials, with which insulation will be insulated, prepare tools, and only after that you can work. The workflow has its own rules and patterns that you need to know not to make mistakes and get a good and qualitative result.

Step-by-step process: how to make?

So that work passed quickly and efficiently, it is important to prepare well, read articles on the topic, watch videos to visually see what and why it is done in the process of work on the inner warming of the roof.

The work algorithm is reduced to four points.

Mounting the waterproofing layer. This task should be performed at the moment of coating with roofing material. Waterproofing is mounted on the rafters so that there is a small sagging. A slate house involves laying this material immediately to isolation. It is important to properly put waterproofing - its smooth side must be top. Strips of the material need to be sealed with the help of tape so that the slots are not formed over time. Only then after that, the castlers are stuffed to the rafters, which will be installed by the crate. On ready-made boards and need to lay roofing material.
Installation of thermal insulation. It is important to choose the heat insulating mat with the necessary thickness, and put it between the rafters. The material is placed in the strut or on the black binder, which is made of small widths, fishing line and ropes that are attached with nails to rafters. Thermal insulation mats occupy free space, and extra pieces are cut.

If you need to warm up the room as much as possible, the mats fit, shifting every side towards.

Placing a vapor insulating layer.This material consists of a smooth side, which is placed to the insulation, and more rough, which is directed to the building itself and performs the fence of steam discharge from the room. Laying such a film is an important point for its full-fledged work. The installation process occurs with a stapler. In this case, you can do without a counterclaim, but all the joints are important to cry with the help of a scotch.
The process of installing profiles and guide bars.These materials serve as the basis for mounting decorative elements and ventilation, which is necessary for proper insulation.

The technology of work will be similar, whether it is a cottage, where there is a flat overlap in the house, or a large country house, where the row roof is built. The right choice of materials and installation in the desired sequence will give the necessary result.

Cearsal overlaps

Choosing insulation for the attic overlap, it is necessary to take into account its heat shield, strength and sustainable qualities with respect to adverse events of the external environment. It is important to take into account the type of overlap, the material from which it is done. Concrete with wood has its own features.

The process of installing the insulation depends on the materialIf this is mineral wool, it is better to use thick layers (about 20 cm), but if there is a desire to create increased thermal insulation, you can increase the thickness of up to 30 cm. Wool laying occurs only after vaporizolation was placed. It is best to be flat under the overlap of the board or timber, so that they do not absorb moisture and not rot. If it was not possible to put a solid piece of vapor barrier, it should be glued to scotch.

After that, work begins with the insulation, which is placed in a wooden frame so as to fill all the free places. As soon as mineral wool was placed, the waterproofing is underway from above, which does not allow you to absorb extra cotton. It is especially important to do that if the next step is to fill concrete when 2 floor is planned in the construction. Instead of concrete, you can make flooring from OSB-plates. That is how the attic can be insulated and, if you wish to make it a residential room.

It is possible to insulate the skates in various ways, the choice of which depends on the construction of the rafter, their heights and the skills of the one who will work with the surface.

There are only three options as you can insulate a scope roof:

with thermal insulation, which is located between the rafters, the frame must be closed with insulation;
with thermal insulation between and above rafters, the framework wrap from all sides by insulation;
with thermal insulation between and under rafyles, the frame is not insulated.

The insulation of the pitched roof is best carried out with the help of matte from mineral wool or with the base of fiberglass. The roof mounting can be made both from the inside and outside. Only layers and their laying order will differ. In the internal works, the roof is insulated using the waterproofing layer, to which the insulation material itself is already stacked, and after that a vapor barrier tape is tensioned.

The broken roof is a special design that you want to be able to warm correctly, especially if the whole procedure is performed with your own hands. Knowing the technology and the correct location of the layers, you can get a qualitatively performed roofing coating, which will protect the house from the loss of heat and penetration of moisture and will help create inside a comfortable microclimate.

Flat Roof: Work Features

If there is a need to warm the flat roof, then the installation of the appropriate materials is often produced after the roof is installed. Work is carried out inside the premises, and after their completion, the height of the ceilings is significantly reduced, which is a tangible disadvantage with all other advantages.

Before starting work, it is important to think about the attic room will be covered.

Warm flat roof by stinging bars over the entire length of the roomAfter which they need to be divided into squares, in which the heat-insulating material will be placed. It is possible to hold it in cells with a cord or gluing to the surface, which is less desirable. The cord can be removed when all the gaps are closed by foam, which will hold the insulation in place.

The first layer should always be the thermal insulation layer, and the last - vapor insulation, which in the amount will give the necessary result of the dry and warm roof. If you do not use protective layers, then the insulation is very soon to come into disrepair and stop performing its functions.

When work with insulation is over, you need to pay attention to the wiring. If it is present there, only after that, proceed to the installation of lamps and decorative decoration.

Useful advice

If the attic is represented as a large and cold room, you can use the insulation of various kinds, after which it will be possible to live in this room. You can lay thermal insulation material as during the construction of the roof and after that. If the roof is already covered with slate or other material, then work is made from the inside, which changes the location of the layers during laying insulation.

When working with glass, it is necessary to use protective equipmentso that the particles of glass do not get into the eyes or nose. The choice of modern materials is not always the most acceptable at least due to their high costs.

The correct procedure for laying all the layers will allow you to insulate the premises to any person, even a non-professional.

More advice on the warming of the roof from the inside, see the following video.

Under the cold roof, vapor insulation do not need. In this article, we will consider in detail why there is no need.

Why vaporizolation is not needed for a cold roof

The cold roof is a rafter system for which the waterproofing material is placed. It will prevent moisture from entering the underpants and protect the soling system from premature destruction. Then the counterclaim is mounted to provide natural ventilation: the air flow falls under the roof and removes excessive moisture. Typically, a bar 50 * 50 mm is used.

Since the substantial temperature drops in the roofing "pie" does not occur, the dew point will be shifted to the latter floor insulation (the warm air will be condensed in the insulation before the attic), so variazolation in the cold roof is not neededBut it will be needed in front of the insulation on the top floor, before the attic.

Does the waterproofing of a cold roof

Yes, necessarily need. No matter what the perfect roof is, no one is insured against water in the microcrack or the minimum clearance. From such a gap in the future there may be great troubles, especially if access to the inner surface is hidden: something is drunk somewhere, and where is unclear. Waterproofing in such cases is needed, even if there is no insulation.

If the roof is metallic, the waterproofing will protect against premature corrosion. Since the thermal conductivity of the metal is higher than that of slate, ondulin or bituminous tiles, then the condensate will form more often.

Laying the waterproofing film is carried out with a small sagging (about 20-25 mm) so that condensate freely glasses on the cornice bar, and from it - in the drain tray. Also, the carrying roof design will in this case will be protected, and for effective evaporation of moisture, the ventilation gap is provided.

Ontutis Films for Cold Roof Waterproofing

Hydroeploying films ONDUTIS D (RV) are designed to carry out waterproofing of a cold roof.

The film is a gray tissue with the addition of a protective layer and a UV stabilizer. Such a film is used for waterproofing in cold or insulated roofs with a metal coating. It delays moisture and protects the underfloor space from the harmful effects of condensate and cold air on the inside of the roof.

Ontutis Smart D (RV) is produced with adhesive tape applied to the base, which simplifies the installation and securely isolates the joints and adhesion.

Conclusion

If you install vaporizolation in cold roofs, it is not necessary at all, then high-quality waterproofing is a pledge of a long and reliable service of the whole roof.

Slate has long been used as roofing material, it did not lose its popularity and now, especially since with the work on the roof, everyone can cope with independently, if you know how to cover the roof of slate.

The main advantages and disadvantages of slate

The benefits of this roofing material include:

non-hatching
easy installation,
strength and low cost,
long service life (35-40 years).

The roof of the slate comes up to any design of buildings, looks beautiful and serves a long time.

Disadvantages:

relatively high weight: more powerful rafter structures should be made,
fragility: with careless transportation or negligent circulation can break.

Types and sizes of wave slate sheets for roofing

Slate sheets produce 6, 7 and 8-wave. The standard length of sheets is 1750 mm, the width depends on the number of the waves and is shown in the figure, thickness from 5.8 to 7.5 mm, a wave step 150 or 200 mm.

The height of the ridge (waves) is 40 mm for 7 and 8-wave and 54 mm for a 6-wave leaf.

Features of the rafting systems for roofs from slate

Enhanced doom

The slate fastening on the roof is made by the doomer, for which the 60x60 mm bar is used, the rafting boards with a thickness of 60 mm and more. This is due to the increased load of the roofing material on the rafter system. The distance between the brucks of the roasters make such that the slate sheet lay at least two of them with a 14 cm reserve on each side.

The smaller the angle of the skate, the stronger the lamb

For roofs of slate, the angle of inclination of at least 22 oh is recommended. For single and duct roofs, tilt corners may be less, but a reinforced doomb is required. The gain principle for different angles of the slope is shown in the figure. Under the slate lay vaporizolation, especially if the roof insulation is planned.

Important! Before the slate coat, all wooden structures are required by 1-2 times to handle the antiseptic with flame retardant properties. It will protect them from rotting, ignition and will extend the service life

How to determine the number of slate for the roof

When planning the performance of work with your own hands, it is important to correctly calculate the number of slate on the roof so that the material is enough, and there was no extra spending. For a person familiar with the basics of geometry, such calculations will not differ. For the roof with one or two slopes, you will need to measure the width and length of the house, the angle of inclination.

More up to calculate slate in the size of the roof , It is done like this:

the size of the roof on the eaves is determined, the resulting distance is divided into the size of the sheet width and add 10%, the number of sheets in one row are obtained;
the distance from the skate to the eaves to the cornice is measured on the skate and divide it to the height of the slate sheet, the number of rows are obtained, increase the resulting result by 13% per fallen;
the obtained numbers of the series and sheets in one row are prolonged and obtained the number of slate sheets for one slope. If the roof is double, the result obtained is doubled.

For four-paced roofs, the area of \u200b\u200bthe skates are calculated geometrically (the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangle and the area of \u200b\u200bthe trapezium, as shown in the figure), is divided into a slate sheet area and add 15%.

Important! Buying slate, you should pay attention to its integrity. Slate sheets must be transferred to paper or film. Store sheets need on a flat horizontal surface, protecting against moisture and sun rays.

Preparatory work when installing the roof

Before proceeding to work on the roof device from slate, prepare all the necessary tools and a flat platform, on which you will cut sheets and drill holes in them. The site should be such that to the leaf you can come from either side.

Tools and equipment

To mount the roof of the slate, you will need: hammer, slate nails, or screw screws, drill, bulgaria or cutting metal, respirator, paint for staining of sections, stair-ladder, staircase-ladder, ropes, metal hooks.

How to raise slate on the roof

Those who plan to make roofs do their own, often the question arises how to raise the slate on the roof. It is done with the help of a rope and two hooks. The sheet is cling to the bottom with two hooks, which are tied by a rope. The rope together with the slate sheet is pulling on the roof. You can feed sheets with hands using a ladder-ladder if two or three people are performed.

Preparation of slate sheets

Before you lay slate on the roof of unpainted sheets, if necessary, can be soaked with water-repellent composition, paint acrylic, water-dispersion or alkyd paint. The paint closes the microcrack, makes slate smoother, snow in winter it is rolled easier from it.

Slate, depending on the ambient temperature, is prone to deformations, so there should be a small gap between the nail and asbette. Make it, drill holes in a slate crest for 2-3 mm of larger diameter than a nail. You can drill these holes and places to lay sheets, if it is more convenient.

Laying slate on the roof, how to do it right

The drains are installed before the start of roofing works. Slate sheets start laying from the bottom row.

How to put slate on the roof

In order for the sheets to lie down exactly, the cord is stretched along the eaves at a distance of 15 cm from the edge and the sheets are flushed over the cord;
putting the roofing material by the rotor with a flystone by 1-2 sheets of the sheet on the sheet, 15-20 cm row on the row (size depends on the angle of inclination). The order of laying is as follows: First, the lower 3-4 canvases, then above them 2-3 seconds, over the second next - 1-2 web of the third row, then to each row, starting from the bottom, add one cannon;
the overlap waves of the slate should be on the prevailing direction of the wind so that the wind does not blow under the slate and did not seek to raise it.

Sheets are cut with a hacksaw or a grinder. The cuts paint paint so asbestos do not crumble.

Attention! Keeping and sawing slate sheets in the respirator, especially if you use a drill and a grinder. The place of cutting is recommended to pre-wet. Asbicated dust is harmful to health.

How and how to mount the slate on the roof

The fastening of roofing material to the shell is an important stage, which depends on both the strength of the roof and the integrity of the slate itself during operation. It should be borne by seasonal deformations and movement of rafting systems and slate, elevated roof loads in winter.

Nails for slate and selflessness

The slate mounting on the roof to the doom is performed by slate steel nails with a hat with a diameter of 14 mm or self-draws. Hat nail and slate separated metal washer and gasket from rubber or other elastic material.

How to nail slate sheets

Slate is naked by a conventional hammer. Nails are inserted into the resulting in advance of the hole and are not clogged until it stops, and so that slate did not move. 8-wave slate is clogged into the 2nd and 6th wave of the joint, 7-wave - in the 2nd and 5th, respectively. The vertical sheet is naked in two places to the doom. The distance from the nail to the edge of the canvas is at least 15 cm. So moves to the skate.

Important! Bend nails from the side of the root, if they are long, not recommended. It is better to cut them up to the desired length.

Device adjoints to chimney

If there is a furnace in the house, the roof is required to arrange an oven for the chimney. For the chimney on the roof of the roof, the adjoining is suitable in different ways depending on whether there is waterproofing or not. In the presence of waterproofing, the adjoining from the steel sheet is installed under slate and film, and when it is not made in such a way that the top edge of the steel sheet is under slate, and the bottom on the slope is above it. The diagram of the adjoining device is shown in the figure.

The device of the ridge of the roof

The skate device is the finishing stage of the roof mounting. Konok protects the roof from water ingress, provides ventilation, is a decorative element of the roof.

The roof of the roof from slate is made of galvanized steel or finished skate elements for the color of the sheets. A galvanized sheet has become the desired width and bent on a leaf bending machine or hands so that the bend angle is slightly smaller than the angle between the sheets of the skates. For fastening the skate use the same nails. How to install a horse, shown in the picture.

How much is the roof cover with slate

The installation of a slate roof is simple, it is under the power to be familiar with the hammer and hacksaw, has enough time to work. Wave slate costs 170-260 rubles. For a sheet, which ranges from 90 to 135 rubles / m 2. On average, taking into account the fasteners and waterproofing, the roof price will cost approximately 200 rubles per 200 rubles / m 2.

When the time to cover the roof of the slate with your own hands is not enough, you can hire a brigade. The cost of work on slate laying will be from 150 to 300 rubles / m 2. If you need to install a truck system, heat, steam, waterproofing, lay slate, then work will cost from 700 to 800 rubles per m 2.

Under the condition of consistent and thorough execution of work, the slate roof will serve for a long time and reliably.

Slate is a popular material, which is inexpensive, but possessing high reliability and durability. If you paint it, then on decorativeness he will be able to boldly compete with modern roofing novelties. Therefore, the scield area is almost unlimited: asbestos-cement roofs can be found on modest country buildings, and on luxurious cottages.

The spread of the material contributes to the fact that the slate laying on the roof - the work is not complicated, under the power of anyone who wants. But so that the coating has served, as it should be relying, at least half a century, it will be necessary to learn all the nuances of this simple, but responsible event.

Many believe that slate is a universal roofing material. This is not true. So that the atmospheric precipitates do not learn under the slate, it is recommended to be placed only on one or duplex roofs with a slope of at least 15 °. If you want to use a more common roof as a base, you will have to build a serious waterproofing from several layers of rubberoid or membranes, as well as an increase in the navel of the adjacent sheets up to 300 mm.

Slate laying methods

To get roofing, slate is fixed on the crate of horizontal rows, moving from the bottom up (from the cornice). Each subsequent sheet in a row is applied to the previous 1-2 waves. Each subsequent row is also shifted to the previous one, as a rule, 120-200 mm.

There are two ways to lay slate:

Missor - When slate sheets of one horizontal row are mounted with a shift of 1-4 waves relative to the sheets of the next row. The docking line is done step. Such a technology is recommended for roofing rods, wide in the transverse direction (horizontally), but narrow on the slope.
Without offset - When slate sheets are assembled with the same, smooth rows, without a shift. The joints of all rows form one line. Since when laying is not allowed to arrange a double reheat (that is, combining at one point more than 2 layers of slate), the edges of the sheets are cut at an angle of 30 ° -60 °. This method is most rational to cover the skates, wide on the slope, but small in the diameter.

As a rule, the wave slate is placed by the rotor. This option is less labor-intensive, since it is not associated with a large amount of trimming. Mount the slate without displacement is much more complicated, since almost every sheet has to be trimmed in the corners. But this technology has a significant advantage - it saves material.

Consider a step-by-step process of roofing slate, focusing on the difference in two layout schemes.

Slate styling technology

The first thing for fastening slate is necessary to prepare the base - the crate, which is fixed directly on the rafters. The lamp is solid and rarefied.

A solid suit is a flooring from an osp, plywood or boards. Such a base is usually applied if you need to cover the roof with a slate with a non-standard small thickness.

For a typical slate with a thickness of GOST, a sparse nest tank is recommended - a design from bars installed with a certain step over rafted. Suitable crate cross section - 40-70 mm. Too thin bars do not use, due to their possible damage at external load (for example, under the influence of dropped snow). Too thick bars - also bad. When warming, they can cause the gap of asbestos-cement fibers and the formation of cracks on slate.

As part of the frame of the crates, it is recommended to use bars of different heights. Private bars usually have a cross section of 60x60 mm, they are fixed in odd rows. The even rows are made up of elements whose height is slightly higher - half the thickness of the slate used. For example, if the slate thickness is 6 mm, then the height of the "even" bars is 63 mm. Another height is 66 mm - has the first (carnome) bar, which should rise above ordinary on the thickness of the slate sheet. For the same type, another scheme is often used: the rails of one height are used - 60x60 mm but, in even rows and near the eaves, they increase them with a liner with a thickness of 3 mm.

The crate is fixed on rafters, at a right angle, using nails or self-tapping screws. Since slate refers to durable, non-bending materials, it is enough to install each sheet 3 supporting bar. The pitch of the crates from bars depends on the length of the sheet. The standard length is 1750 mm, respectively, the shadow step is 700-750 mm.

At the skate, the 1-2 frauds of the crate (on each scatter) are installed for the subsequent fastening of skate parts on them. The height of bars are selected in place, in fact.

Additionally perform the crate around the chimney. For this, ordinary bars are fixed around the perimeter of the pipe barrel at a distance of at least 130 mm from it (to ensure fire safety).

Stage # 2. Calculation of the number of slate

The correct count of the number of slate is another important stage that will save the roofer from the need at the last moment to purchase 1-2 missing sheet and order transportation for this.

It should be understood that not the entire surface of the material goes to the immediate coating of the roof. Part of the area (over the perimeter of the sheet) is lost under the overlap.

Therefore, the calculation of the number of slate is carried out as follows:

1. Determine the number of slate in the transverse (horizontal) row (P) by the formula:

N \u003d (L + 2C) / (B 2 - in 1),

L. - width of the skate;
FROM - removal of the sweep on the frontones;
B 2. - width of the sheet;
IN 1 - Width of the sheet under the overweight.

2. Determine the number of slate in the longitudinal row (N) using the formula:

n \u003d (L O + C 1) / (L 2 - L 1),

L O. - Length of the skate;
C 1 - the size of the sink from the cornice (approximately 100 mm);
L 2. \u003d - length of sheet;
L 1. - The size of the longitudinal bowel sheet.

3. The figures obtained are rounded up to the whole number, prolonged and receive the total number of sheets on 1 roofing rod. If the roof is a double, then the calculated number of sheets (+ 10% - on battle and marriage) is purchased in two-time quantities.

Stage # 3. Cutting slate sheets

Before lifting slate sheets on the roof, it is necessary to sort them and, in accordance with the selected laying scheme, cut out.

Cutting slate with several tools:

bulgarian;
hacking on wood or foam concrete;
electric bison;
with the help of a drill or slate nail and hammer.

It is easier and faster than just performing a slate with a barrage with a disk on stone (concrete) or a diamond disk.

Cutting process:

the slate sheet is placed on the walkways from the boards so that the place of the cut is raised above the ground;
make the markup of the line of the cut with a smooth wooden rail;
the cutting place is watered with water to avoid overheating of the disc, making slate softer and militant, as well as to precipitate the stitching asbestos-cement dust;
perform cut, constantly wasting the cut line and the bladler disk (watering them with water from the bottle).

Similarly, they cut the sheets with a hacksaw or an electrolovka, however, when using these tools, you need to be extremely careful not to break them.

Methods of cutting with a drill or slate nail deserve special attention.

When using a drill, a 2 mm drill is done along the cut-through holes in 0.5 cm increments. At the end of drilling, a sheet with one edge is placed on the support (table, for example), and on the other edges are pressed, after which the slate splits on the intended line.

Instead of drill drill to get through holes, you can use a sharpened nail and a hammer. To do this, the nail on the planned line is set and hit the hammer on the hat. Blows must be neat, strong enough, but not sharp. Thus, multiple point holes break through a small distance from each other. After that, the sheet is split into two parts.

The technology of cutting a slate leaf of the grinder is shown in the video plot:

Stage # 4. Laying slate sheets

Slate stacking starts on the side opposite to the direction of prevailing winds. That is, the installation of sheets start on the left side, if strong winds blow on the right, and vice versa. This will avoid the bloody rain and snow in the places of overhearsow sheets.

Along the cornice stretch the cord at a distance of the back of the sink to level the slate rows on it. Instead of a cord, you can use a flat wooden slaughter.

The sequence of work in the scenario.

1. The first horizontal row begins to compose from whole slate sheets. Each subsequent sheet overlaps 1-2 waves of the previous one (as a rule, there are 1 wave on the overweight). The mount is performed using roofing nails or self-tapping screws with soft (rubber) gaskets.

2. In the second row, the first sheet is cut into some amounts of waves, depending on the desired displacement value. Then they are placed, continued, products. Sheets overlap the underlying row, forming a total of 200 mm - with a slope of a slide at 15-20 °, 150 mm - with a slope of more than 20 °. That is, the more bias, the smaller the permissible pass.

3. The third and all subsequent ranks begin with sheets cut into a doubled waves cut off at the first sheet of the underlying row. For example, if the first sheet of the second row was shortened by 1 wave, then the first sheet of the third row will have to trim on 2 waves, then - by 3 waves, etc. It is more convenient to carry out a 1/2 width of slate. In this case, only sheets in each even row will have to cut half. Odd rows are made up of whole sheets.

4. The latter is laid by the skate row, making it up from cut across sheets.

When slapping without offset:

1. The first sheet is placed entire, not circumcised. Align it in the cord, fix with nails or self-drawing. The subsequent sheets of the first row are mounted at the angle of the upper right corner (if the installation starts on the right side of the skate).

2. At the first sheet of the second row, the left lower angle is cut off, after which it is joined with a cut corner of the second sheet in the first row. The subsequent sheets are mounted in two corners - in the upper right and lower left (are located diagonally). The last sheet of the second row (located on the left) cuts off only the upper right corner.

3. The elements of the upper row (under the skate) are cut along the lower left corner and height in fact. The last leaf of the corners are not cut. Such a scheme of the formation of the corners is reliable only when laying the sheets to the right left. If the direction of installation goes from left to right, the trimming is performed in opposite angles (instead of the left corners - right and vice versa).

Stage # 5. Installing challenges

After overlapping the roof of the slate, the finishing stage begins - setting the challenges. To overlap the skate, it is desirable to take advantage of special skate parts from asbestos cement. Each such an element consists of two parts connected to hinges. As an alternative to the factory part, you can use a galvanized sheet, bent on a leafybobochene or own.

Collars of flue pipes, hearing windows and places of adjacent to the walls are made with the help of angular parts from asbestoscertic or collars from galvania. They are fixed over slate sheets with the help of self-tapping screws passed through the ridges of the waves. The upper edge of the apron is attached to the wall and sealed. The bottom edge overlap at least 1 wave of an ordinary sheet.

Unders are covered with galvanized or asbestos-cement trays, setting them upwards. At the same time, the longitudinal walls of the tray must overlap with slate sheets at least by 150 mm.

Upon completion of the fastening of good items, it is possible to lay the laying of a slate roofing finished.

Features of the slate fastening on the roof

An important nuance, which should be stated separately - this is the selection of fasteners and their use in the process of fastening the slate on the roof.

You can use as fasteners:

Slate (roofing) nails. Produced from durable steel, their main feature is an enlarged hat reaching 14 mm in diameter. To exclude the appearance of rust, the caps are performed from galvanized or metals coated with anti-corrosion composition. Length of slate nails should be directly proportional to the height of the slate wave. That is, the higher the slate waves, the longer nails driven into them. According to the recommendations of the specialists, the length of the nails should be 10 mm more than the total value of the slate wave (where the fastening element) and the thickness of the crate (bar or board) will be driven. Excess rod is not needed.
Self-tapping screws. These fasteners are more expensive than nails, but also more comfortable in their work. Self-samples may have three versions: for a wrench (hexagonal form), under a flat screwdriver (with a straight slot), under a cross-shaped screwdriver (with a cross-shaped slot). Under the Hat is a sealing washer with a rubber gasket. Some manufacturers stain heads and washers in different colors (most often - based on RAL).

The fasteners are mounted in two ways (to choose):

In the pre-drilled hole drill in slate. Their diameter should be 2-3 mm wider rods of fasteners. The resulting gap will allow you to protect the slate from cracking in the windows of the wooden crate, but it can cause water under the roof. That this does not happen, a rubber gasket is put on the fastening elements, which seals the slate roof. Self-tapping screws are equipped with such a gasket constructively, in contrast to roofing nails. Therefore, under the nails, the waterproofing washer will have to be purchased separately or cut independently - from rubber, rubberoid or toli. Then it is put on the rod, under the Hat.
Without pre-drilled holes (This method recommends most of the "experienced" masters). In this case, only roofing nails without gaskets use to attach the slate on the roof. The nail is driven into the coating with light blows of the hammer so that the asbestos-cement layer crumbled from shocks, and not crack. Otherwise, slate can burst. However, even with proper cutting technology of nails directly into slate, it often happens. This is due to the poor quality of the material, which, unfortunately, is common and nearby.

An important feature of the fastening: when installing the nail or self-tapping screw is not pulled to the limit to the slate leaf, but leave a small gap in 2-3 mm - to compensate for temperature extensions. If you neglect by this advice, then soon the slate roof will go cracks.

The fasteners are installed only in the upward parts of the wave (in the comb), where slate is in contact with the crate (for connecting the roofing sheet with the material of the crate). Fastening lead at a distance of 80-100 mm from the edges of the sheets.

for 5 wave slate - fastening in the 2nd and 4th waves;
for 6 wave slate - fastening in the 2nd and 5th waves;
for 8 wave slate - fastening in the 2nd and 6th waves.

Since usually slate relies on 3 brush of the crate, and the mount is performed at the points of contact of 2 waves with a crate, the total number of nails (self-tapping) for each sheet is 6 pieces.

Some additional nuances of how to cover the roof by slate, you can learn from the video clip:

Conclusions - Is it really possible to do everything yourself?

Technology device of the slate roof is very simple. It will not require you from the special cost of time, labor and cash. Despite this, the roof will turn out beautiful (especially if you get acquainted with paint for slate!), Reliable and durable.

Roof can be made like flatand wave slate. Flat slate is recommended for roofs with a large tilt angle.

But anyway should consider the geographical location Region.

The surface of the slate sheet on both sides is different. On the one hand, more corrugated, on the other hand smooth. When laying slate on the roof, the smooth side must be top.

It is needed to snow in winter With ease, rushed from the roof and did not create the congestion, which can lead to water flow through Farms.

Calculate the number of slate sheets of the necessary For the coating, you need to take into account the flaw, both in horizontal and vertical row.

Start laying slate need from the opposite to the prevailing winds In this region.

With ordinary laying On each sheet of slate, except extreme, are cut off two angle located diagonally in order to reduce the thickness of the flaw.

When laying with offset, when the next horizontal range shifts half the width of the slate sheet, you do not need to do this.

How to insulate the roof under slate?

The main thing in the warming of the roof begins with the installation of slate. To do this, under the slate laid waterproofing, as a rule, it is runner. But you can use other materials intended for this.

Roof should be insulated from the inside. on the side of the attic or attic. For insulation uses various materials, such as mineral wool and foam.

Using mineral wool in a roll need to fasten it between rafters One or two layers using metal brackets. It is better to use special blocks from mineral wool, they are more convenient when installing.

Parezolation stacked over mineral wools or blocks. This is a special material that misses moisture. One way and does not pass to another, so you need to follow the correctness of the styling.

Side which does not miss moisture should be outside. Vaporizoation interrupts directly to the rafters. This membrane does not need to tightly press to the insulation, it must lie a little.

From below and above near the skate should remain holes for ventilation.

Over this vaporizolation need to make an additional crate. Fill bars along the rafters, and across the rails. They can be consolidated by the inner trim: Faneru, chipboard, etc.

Insulation polystyrene foam occurs by the same scheme seams between the slabs you need to fill in by mounting foam.

Dismantling of the roof from slate

For to dismantle the slate need to have a nail, Wooden bar, rope with tied hooks, two guide boards or timber for safe leaf shutters.

Remove the slate roof in the reverse order of installation. The first is removed a number near the skate. Nails should be removed by a nail, pre-put the wooden bar under it so as not to damage the slate sheet.

Also see:

Interesting information on how to trim the slate when laying

Comparison of slate with metal tile, ondulin chaff houseworks of the master here

How to replace slate on metal tile and professional flooring - expert advice here

You need to lower the sheet by guides, hooking it at the bottom with two hooks with ropes. It will be better if for a hook to make a special hole on slate nail.

And also see the video about the waterproofing of a slate roof:

Do not know how to cover the roof? The installation process is quite lightweight, so it can be done independently. It is advisable to carry out certain types of preparatory work, characteristic of a slate roof. They must provide additional reliability of the design.

Preparation

From the very beginning it is required to make a solid foundation - the crate. For this, the unedged boards are well suitable, which are installed at right angles on the rafyled. The attachment uses self-tapping screws or nails, while the mounting distance should be observed - no less than 40 cm, up to 75 cm. If there is a chimney pipe on the roof - the lamp is done and around it.

Unedged boards are very bad with each other, in any case, the distance between their untreated edges remains. Considering this, you need to have them freely, not in bulk. The task of such a crate is the basis, and not a solid surface. The distance between the boards is allowed to 10-12 cm.

Consider also the drainage tube should be put in advance.

The main stages of the coating by slate

Waterproofing

1. Under slate, it is usually placed on a tol, rubberoid or a number of modern rolled roofing waterproofing materials on a bitumen basis ("hydroisol", "Rubext" and the like). Roll roll horizontally, starting from the bottom row. If you wish, you can spend welding of rolled sheets with each other. At the same time, the technology specified for this material should be guided by how much overwhelming which side to lay as welding.

The cooler of the roof (bias), the less the need to weld waterproofing among themselves.

2. The fastening of the runneroid and it does not make sense with it, since the slate sheets are subsequently attached to the crate, capturing and waterproofing. It is necessary to follow when laying the regteroid sheets only practical meaning: so that the sifter waterproofing does not fly away from the wind gusts or under the weight of its own weight on a steep roof.

Cover

1. Laying slate is carried out from the lower rows. Installation must be started from the lower first, usually from three slate sheets. Fall is produced on one wave, regardless of the amount of waves and their size (length). The slate is mounted with special slate nails with a wide hat. One sheet of slate breaks through four or six places depending on its length.

The mount is made in the second wave, in the first one - it is impossible! In the place of the allen, slate through two sheets does not break through! For slate with eight waves, such nails are clogged along even - the second and sixth wave, having them on the ridge, and at the seven-wave - in the 2nd and fifth. Nails need to score at the top of the waves, and not into the lower part.

2. Then strengthens two slate sheet in the next row, and another sheet is added to the first row, and then put the top. Thus provide free access to all sheets. Laying slate on the roof is carried out until the final closing of the entire roofing surface is.

Supplements

For inexperienced, which conduct slate stacking with their own hands for the first time: drill a place for nails is necessary before you score, otherwise you can, hit by a hammer, split the surface. The sizes of the holes must exceed the diameter of the nail size of approximately two millimeters, so you should think about their sealing and insulation from water penetration. In one case, you can use the rubber gasket, a plastic washer or a roof of the runnerdoor, or in another - after clogging under the Hat pour hermetic tool. Nails are not so much so much, there must be a small gap between the surface and hack. The right thing is the nail, the hat of which ultimately relates to slate slightly.
Nails can be changed on screws specially intended for such technologies. Holes, if convenient, you can do a drill.
Modern fasteners for slate can be equipped with rubber pads under a hat - then it is not necessary to seal the holes.
Improving the quality of the roof coverage contributes to the laying of a vaporizolation membrane.
All irregularities on the slate cut is recommended to be trimmed with a grinder, the power of which will be enough to one kW, the diameter of the disk to 1.8 cm and the thickness of up to 1.6 mm is the optimal solution; If you apply a thick abrasive disk, then you can get bogged down in slate, and the thin, on the contrary, will not be able to cut it at all. Pruning is very neatly, smoothly and not in a hurry to omit, so as not to provoke the formation of cracks and chips along the edges. As a result, such trimming is formed by slate dust containing asbestos, harmful to health, in this case it is required to treat acrylic water-based acrylic paint. Work in the respirator.

To extend the service life of the roof, it will be good to carry out the surface treatment with an antiseptic - it will protect the moss from swelling and reproduction, and if you apply paint to the laid slate, then you can protect against various atmospheric influences and precipitation.

In the case of laying a flat slate, the dog must be made solid, and before it is installed, it is proposed to draw a grid, by cells of which will be laid in such sheets. Flat sheets can be laid on the surface that has a slope of a little more than twenty degrees, according to the same technology like a wave.

The roofing device from slate ends with the establishment of the grooves, which is required to be built up the runneroid. Further make a drainage system, put on an apron of iron to the chimney and the ventilation pipe.

Summary

With self-laying, it is possible to save significantly without attracting professional professionals. And do not forget to make the stock of slate sheets, although they are heavy and dense, but differ in brittleness, which can lead to a random and unaccounted damage roofing material.

Almost every residential premises need vapor barrier. What it is? What type of material is best suited for a vapor barrier? And what side to put it to the insulation? These and other issues relating to vapor barrier and its installation are answering our specialists in this article.

What functions perform a vapor barrier? The fact is that the insulation is usually customary to be installed on the inside of the room, and it can be covered with water droplets on the inside with warm air. Where does the moisture come from? Explanation Simple: Steam settles on the walls of the room and when cooled, moves from a vapor state into liquid. To prevent such a situation, you need to install vaporizolation.

Experts allocate several basic functions of a vapor barrier:

an increase in the life of thermal insulation materials;
protection of the room from excessive humidity.

Selection of material

The roof of the slate uses unchanged popularity in the construction of cottages, cottages, country houses, garages and other buildings.

This is quite an inexpensive material: one square meter of the roof, taking into account waterproofing and fastening systems, will cost you about 250 - 300 rubles when laying slate with your own hands.

If you resort to the services of professional installers, the cost of the roof will increase somewhat, but still will remain quite acceptable.

Schifer service life with proper installation is more than 50 years. At the same time, the material reliably protects the room from the penetration of moisture, no precipitation and sun rays are afraid, fire-resistant.

The size and thickness of the slate sheets are regulated by GOSTs: a standard sheet of 6 to 8 waves should be 1.75 m in length.

The width varies from 5.8 mm to 7.5 mm depending on the type of sheet. Asbestos cement, the main material for the production of slate, - gray or light gray.

To give the material other coloring, a special technology is used with the use of pigments, so you can easily choose an option that harmoniously fit into the architecture of the building.

Single roof can have a smaller angle of inclination, but before covering the roof with slate, you should install a more dense crate and a reliable waterproofing layer.

Stop sheets on more flat roofs will have to with a strong overlay, up to 30 cm.

Calculation of the required number of sheets

Before you begin on self-laying slate, you need to calculate how many sheets you need for construction work.

You need to accurately measure the size of the roof with a roulette or use the drawings if the roof is not yet erected.

Materials worth buying with a small margin so that at the last moment I did not have to go to the store for additional materials and organize delivery.

The length of the roof is measured on the cornice sink, then divided by the width of one sheet.

10% add to the figure is added - this is a stock for laying slate sheets. Round the resulting digit - so many full sheets will be required for one horizontal range.

Then measure the roof length from the edge of the cornese swelling to the skate, add 15 to 20% and roundate again.

Exercise the resulting digit to the length of one sheet - so you will learn how much horizontal series will need to completely cover the roof.

The product of the two results obtained is the total number of sheets that will be required.

Choosing a slate in the store, carefully check the integrity of each sheet, since it is a fragile material on which chips and cracks are easily formed.

Be sure to make sure that the material is well packaged for transportation: there are several layers of paper between sheets so that they do not be damaged during transportation.

Before ordering a slate in the store Prepare a place to store it: Choose a large smooth space and shut it with a waterproof film.

Slate is very heavy (the weight of one sheet can reach 30 - 35 kg), so it is necessary to store it in an easily accessible place where the workers will be convenient to approach.

Preparation of the rafter system to laying

Before starting to lay slate, it is necessary to prepare a reliable solry system.

Since slate is heavier than most modern materials, the rafter system should be very durable and withstand large physical exertion.

The doom will serve as a good base for laying.

Before covering the roof of the slate with their own hands, pay attention to several important details:

stropile legs should be made from upscale, well-dried materials. The minimum thickness of the cross section of the board 60 is 150 mm, optimal - 100 by 150 mm. Preference give the bars without harsh or unedged boards;
the minimum size of bars for the crate - 6 cm by 6 cm, preferred better coniferous rocks. The more flat roof you are going to independently cover with slate, the stronger should be a doom;
slate weight is a large load even for a solid crate, so it is important to uniformly distribute the load. The optimal support for the sheet will be able to provide 3-4 BROs, located not closer to 15-16 cm from the edge of the sheet;
to ensure a more reliable support in the crate, it is better to use bars of different diameters. In even rows, as a rule, block bars of standard size, and in odd - by 2-3 mm above. The cornice bar must be 2-3 mm above. The easiest way to increase the size of the bars is to increase them with the help of special linings.

Installing the crate near the chimney requires compliance with the rules of fire safety. The minimum distance from the pipe to BRUSEV - 13 cm.

Slicer cutting technology

To independently put slate, you must first prepare, sort and cut the sheets. For cutting, you will need hacksaw, Bulgarian or jigsaw.

Slate slate on special wooden wets, so that the cutting line is raised above the ground. The cut line is tagged using a long line or flat rack.

If you are going to clean the slate yourself using a jigsaw or hacksaw, then weanly moisten the cutting line with water - this will make it possible to soften the material, prevent overheating, and be asked asbestos dust.

In the process of cutting, the slate itself is constantly watering, and the tool with water.

Cut the slate using sharpened nails or drills.

Through the cutting line, the holes are made with a diameter of 5 mm in approximately half a half meter.

Then the material must be put on the table or other reliable support and gently split.

Asbestos dust can cause serious harm to health, so cutting the slate is necessary in a special respiratory mask, abundantly moistened with water.

Now let's talk about how to lay slate right on your own, without the involvement of specialists.

Instructions for laying material with your own hands

Laying slate on the roof begins with work planning. Pay attention to the direction of the wind: stack the material from the leeward side - so even with a strong wind or thunderstorm the roof will not leak on the joints.

To put rows exactly, pull along the rope or cord along the cornice.

The roofing device from the slate is two types: the rotor (horizontal rows are somewhat shifted relative to each other so that the joints do not coincide) or without a displacement (in the places of crossing the seams, each sheet corners are a little).

The proper styling of slate is the key to the durability and reliability of the roof. Read the instructions to the end before putting slate, pay attention to how to switch to slate.

Laying the rotary

Before lining the roof with slate, cut all the necessary sheets. Sheets laid with a small overlay to provide more reliable waterproofing, horizontal rows.

The main task: to shift each subsequent row relative to the previous one so that the joints of the joints do not coincide. This is how slate stacking with your own hands.

The first row can be put out of one-piece sheets so that they overlap each other slightly. Horizontal rows should cover each other a little.

Fastening is made using special nails or self-tapping screws, and be sure to put a soft gasket under the hat, for example, from rubber.

The first sheet of the second horizontal row must be slit a bit along, on one or two waves, so that the joints of the second row shifted and did not coincide with the joints of the first. Further, starting from the second, you can put entire sheets.

Just like the sheets themselves, horizontal rows should slide each other a little. When the slope of a 5-degree slot, the slate can be treated with an allen at 14 - 17 cm, with a stealing slope, it is necessary to increase the backstage of up to 20 - 22 cm to ensure reliable waterproofing.

The first sheet of the third row is cut down even more to ensure further displacement, relative to the second row, and so on - each laid row should be slightly displaced.

So, if you are the first sheet of the second row, cut into one wave, then in the third row you will have to cut two or three waves, in the fourth - by three or four, etc.

To avoid a lot of material loss, use the displacement of half the width of the sheet, alternating the location of entire sheets and half in even and odd rows.

Mounting slate should be carried out carefully. Before you hit the slate, do the holes slightly larger diameter, do not bring the nails close.

A small gap will allow you to compensate for various climatic changes and roof shifts.

When the temperature drops, the volume of slate changes, so if you score nails too tight, then the material can crack or split.

Styling technology without displacement do it yourself

To properly put slate without offset, it is necessary to pre-prepare sheets.

With this method of installation of the sheets, the angle is cut off, which puts the brass with the already laid sheet.

Stying begins with the right or left lower edge of the roof - the first sheet is the first sheet.

If you started working on the right side, all other sheets of the first row must be cut off the upper right corner. If you started laying on the left side, the upper left corner is cut off.

Sheets for the second and all subsequent rows In addition to the latter, it is necessary to prepare in advance, cutting corners in all places of intersection.

Since the first sheet of each row comes into contact with other sheets with only one edge, it is necessary to cut only the lower angle, right or left, depending on which side you started working.

At the last sheet you need to cut only the upper angle with the appropriate side.

The remaining sheets in the row are cut off the upper and lower corners in the places of intersection with the neighboring side. The latter is laid another one-piece sheet.

Now you know how to properly cover the roof of the slate with your own hands, how to sharpen and how to mount the slate on the roof.

Roofing from slate with your own hands is reliable and inexpensive, and put your work in the creation of heat and comfort in the house is also always nice.

Hello, Vadim!

At first glance, the question is simple - how to cover the roof in the country? But it is impossible to give an unequivocal answer on it, since there is a huge number of roofing materials. You are interested in what is better - rubberoid or slate. To begin with, it is worth considering the technical characteristics and features of these materials.

Ruberoid

In the people, this material is called soft heat insulator. Ruberoid made from cardboard. It is processed by bitumen. In a free sale you can find it in rolls with different widths. Building stores offer the following types of Ruberoid:

Rowarest. It is similar to the usual rubberoid on manufacturing technology. The difference is that there is more soft bitumen on the bottom of the rubble. This allows the material to be elastic. Before use, it is heated by gas burners and laid onto the roof.
Gymelockeroid. In terms of its characteristics, the material is similar to the previous one, only in the composition there is fiberglass.
Tol. Such material in our time is difficult to find in the store. The roofing material consists of cardboard and a coal mixture with mineral sprinkling.
EuroRuberoid. This innovative rubberoid, which includes fiberglass and polyester. All this is covered by bitumen and polymer additives. In contrast to the standard runner, this material will serve you longer in time.

Application

Now that you have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe types of Ruberoid, it is worth talking about its use. Basically, this material is used to insulate roofs of houses. Now, when there is a large range of roofing materials, rubberoids are used on temporary buildings. The material is considered environmentally friendly. The only reason why it is not recommended to use it is a high fire hazard. Ruberoid is easily flammable, and the fire will quickly capture the summer building. And in other cases, the roofing material will satisfy all your wishes, for example:

withstands any temperature difference;
can serve 10 - 15 years;
low cost;
it is convenient to use in work.

Slate

This roofing material is no less popular than rubberoid. Use it often in construction. In modern construction stores you can find slate of the following types:

Natural shale. If you want to give your cottage home the original appearance, then boldly prefer this view. There is such slate with small slices of slate, which have a different size. It can be used in various climatic conditions. If you decide to buy such a material, be prepared for the fact that it has a high cost, and its high weight and fragility make it difficult to use.
Ordinary wavy. These are profiled sheets that are made from asbestos. It is necessary to immediately clarify that such a slate is not safe in terms of environmental material. It will serve on your roof about 40 years. A large selection of color solutions, the strength of such slate and low cost makes it a "folk goods". When erecting such a roof, you will encounter the fragility of the material and the high weight.
Euroshorter. This group includes all the well-known "Ondulin", "Aqualine" and many others. For the mid-price you will receive a service life of about 20 years, material strength and ease of installation. Remember that such slate is poorly tolerates the strong sun and frost.
Plastic. Such material is not suitable for the house, but for indoor pools, greenhouses and arbors. It is made of polymers who have a different shade.
Rubber. This is manufactured by such slate from fiberglass. Suitable for low-rise buildings and household buildings.

Ruberoid or slate?

What to choose to decide, only to you. The list of characteristics of the slate and runner will help to determine in such a complex choice. But if you want to live in a safe house, it is better to choose a slate. You can find a variant that will satisfy you with your price, quality and security.

Sincerely, Christina.