750 rbl

1 150 rub

1 250 rub

2,000 rubles

2 200 rubles

RUB 1,800

RUB 6,000

260 rbl

1 140 rub

1 500 rub 1 900 rub

The technology, new for many of our compatriots, makes it possible to significantly reduce the time for arranging floor coverings. Like any technology, apart from its advantages, it also has rather “problematic” characteristics. But this is the professionalism of the builders, in order to be able to choose the one that will be optimal in this particular case among the numerous options for the flooring device.

Finishing floor coverings are installed on wooden joists (in the case of using floorboards) or on a solid base of plywood or OSB sheets (in the case of laminate or soft flooring).

A very important point during the construction of any floors - the bearing surface must be located in a strictly horizontal position.

It is very difficult to achieve such a result using fixed logs; you often have to use various wedges or pads to align the spatial position. These wedges can fall out due to improper fixation or for other reasons, the floors begin to sag and creak. It is impossible to eliminate such problems without dismantling some of the coatings, and dismantling is associated with large losses of time and money.

DIY adjustable floors - a diagram of one of the possible options

Adjustable floors allow you to perfectly level surfaces on all uneven substrates. In addition, the leveling mechanism makes it possible to adjust the gap between the floor and the supporting base, and this makes it possible to place various engineering networks in these places.

Adjustable floors consist of plastic stud bolts or metal studs, floor joists or plywood sheets. Many modifications of regulation systems are made, but there are no fundamental differences between them. By rotation threaded connection there is a smooth lowering / raising of structural elements, in this way you can accurately set the base of the floors in the desired position.

There are several types of adjustable floors, you should familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

Adjustable floor. Kinds

Table. Types and brief characteristics of adjustable floors

Both logs and plates can be adjusted. The second option is used only for soft flooring or laminate flooring, the first option can be used for all types of floor finish.

If you wish, you can make the adjustable floors yourself; this option has its undeniable advantages. The main ones are significantly lower cost and the ability to select lag parameters depending on the specific features of operation. If desired, the adjustable floor system allows the floor to be insulated, which is very important in an environment of high energy prices.

Mounting technology for factory adjustable lags on plastic bolts

Initial data. The supporting base is concrete or cement-sand screed, a set of factory-made adjustable logs is used. Let's say right away that this is the most expensive option for adjustable floors.

Step 1. Take measurements of the room to determine the amount of lag. The floors in the bath do not have a heavy load, the distance between the logs can be increased up to 45 centimeters.

Step 2... Beat off the distance between the lags on the tie. To do this, use a rope with blue, with its help, the work will be done quickly and efficiently.

Step 3. Cut the logs to the required length. The length of the sold factory lags in most cases is four meters. Think carefully about how you need to mark the logs to minimize waste. The distance from the cutting line to the nearest adjusting bolt must be at least ten centimeters. If the end is closer, then there are risks of cracking under load.

Step 4. Lay out the logs around the marked lines. For installation, you will need a small drill with a perforator, a special wrench for screwing in the bolts, an extension for fixing the dowels, a screwdriver, a chisel and a hammer.

Step 5. Establish the first lag in a vertical position, screw plastic bolts into the threaded hole. Place the lower ends of the bolts in line and drill a dowel hole in the concrete base. The depth of the holes for the dowels should be 2 ÷ 3 centimeters longer than its length. This is due to the fact that a certain amount of concrete always remains in the hole, if you do not make a margin in length, then it will prevent you from driving the dowel completely.

Step 6. Install the dowels, but do not drive them all the way in. The dowel should not impede the rotation of the plastic bolts. Use a long vial to set correct position lag. If the lag is installed, firmly fix the dowel. Continue to install the lags in turn in the marked places, constantly control their position with a level.

Such an installation algorithm is offered by manufacturers, this is what many builders do, who receive an hourly salary, not from production. The one who works with the development does differently. How? They take the water level and beat off the zero lag level on two opposite walls. Then, nails or dowels are driven in these places (depending on the material of the walls) and the ropes are pulled. The ropes are pulled in such a way that they are at the ends of the logs. If the length of the room is not more than the length of the log, then you will need two ropes. If the lags had to be connected, then three. The rope is pulled only after the lags have already been placed in the places of fixation.

Then everything is simple and fast. Each log is installed along the rope, it should not touch it, you need to check that the gap between the rope and the log is minimal. That's all, in this way you will be able not only to significantly increase the speed of installation of the adjustable floor, but also to significantly improve its quality.

There is a direct relationship between accuracy and the number of planes measured. What is meant? It is highly likely that the position of the first lag has deviated from the desired level by one millimeter. It's a little bit, everything is fine. But the fact is that the following checks will be made taking into account this deviation, again there is a probability of an error in a millimeter, and so on increasing. It is for this purpose that a template is made, if it is necessary to cut off a large number of identical parts, and dimensions are not removed from each finished part in turn. In this case, the rope acts as a template.

Step 7... Cut off the protruding part of the plastic bolt with a wide chisel.

Floor on plastic bolts - check

Plastic bolt prices

plastic bolts

Video - Installation technology of adjustable floors

The main advantage of such floors is that the stability of the fastening is significantly increased due to the increase in the area of ​​the lower stop. The disadvantage is that the terms increase, the inability to do the work on your own.

The lags are fixed to the U-shaped plates using self-tapping screws, the height of the lag is adjusted using a series of vertically positioned holes on both sides of the plate.

Step 1. Using a rope with blue, mark the locations of the genital lags. Calculate required amount material and additional structures.

Step 2... Determine the floor level, make marks on the walls. Arrange along the lines metal plates and lags. The width of the plates should correspond to the lag bus. The distance between the plates depends on the parameters of the lag; forty centimeters are enough for a bath.

Step 3... Fix the plates to the concrete base with dowels. Immediately drive the dowels all the way, then it is very difficult to pull them up - there is a lag on top and prevents access to it. If the metal plates move a little during fixation, it's okay. When installing the logs, slightly bend their side parts in the desired direction.

Fixing the bracket

Step 4. Take the first lag, put its ends in the desired position. In this position, attach the log to the side surfaces of the U-shaped plates; use wood screws to fix it. Now you can fix the plates located in the middle of the log. But for this, constantly check the horizontal position, the lag bends a little under its own weight. If you want to do the work faster and better, then use the ropes for displaying horizontal level... How this is done is described above. Make sure that the self-tapping screws do not split the logs, choose them by size, screw them in at a slight downward slope.

Step 5. After installing all the lags, you need to cut off the protruding parts of the plates with a grinder. This is rather inconvenient to do. But, despite the "difficult" cutting conditions, try to minimize damage with the disc wooden logs.

Installation of lags on metal studs

Adjustable floors of this type can be made independently, we will tell you about this option. Select the dimensions of the lags taking into account the characteristics of the floor and the maximum loads. Metal studs with zinc coating, recommended diameter 6 ÷ 8 mm. To assemble the structure, you will need studs, nuts and washers.

Step 1. Beat off parallel lines on the supporting base at a distance of 30 ÷ 50 cm. The greater the distance, the more powerful the logs need to be selected.

Step 2. Calculate the number of lags, studs, washers and nuts. The recommended distance between the pins is 30 ÷ 40 centimeters. Prepare all materials, accessories and tools for the production of work.

Step 3... Mark the holes in the lags for the studs, they should all lie on the line of symmetry. In the designated places, first drill a through hole Ø6 mm for the pin (if the diameter of the pin is different, then the hole must be drilled accordingly). From the front side of the log, drill a hole for the diameter of the washer with a feather drill. The hole depth should be a few millimeters greater than the sum of the nut height and the washer thickness.

Step 4. Place each lag in turn on the broken parallel lines on the concrete screed. Very carefully, in turn, for each lag, mark the future installation locations of the anchor threaded elements. Make sure the lag does not move. Use a drill or pencil for marks. For a drill, you need to take a drill with a victorious soldering. The places are marked - subtract the log and drill holes in the concrete. The hole dimensions must match the dimensions of the anchors.

There is a second way of marking holes for anchor, it takes more time, but completely eliminates the possibility of errors. This is how it is done. First, you need to mark only the two extreme holes for the anchor, screw the studs into them on two nuts to fix the lag in the desired position. Now, during further marking, the lag will not move anywhere. In this position, you can immediately drill the holes for the anchor to the full depth. The work is done - the lag is removed, all the pins are screwed into place. This procedure will have to be performed with each lag, labor productivity is halved. But you yourself must make the final decision on the method of marking, taking into account the condition of the concrete base of the floor and your experience in performing this kind of work.

Step 5. On each stud, tighten a nut and place a washer. It is advisable to immediately approximately determine their location in height, this will speed up the work. Tighten the studs into the anchors firmly. To do this, you can use a special locksmith tool or other simple methods... You can purchase studs that have holes at the end for an insert barbed or a hexagon for open-end wrench, but they are much more expensive than ordinary ones.

Video - How to twist the studs

Step 6... Put the logs on the studs in turn, align the position of the logs with a wrench of the appropriate size by turning the lower nut left / right. We have already described how this is done. Keep in mind that the thread pitch of metal nuts is much smaller than that of plastic nuts. In some cases, it will take a long time to twist, which is tedious. Moreover, the position will be uncomfortable: you have to sit on your knees, and the key is brought from below the lags.

Step 7. Lags are exposed - you can start fixing them. Use a washer and nut, insert them into the top hole.

Important! Tighten the top nut vigorously, even slight loosening can cause very unpleasant squeaks when walking on the floor.

Step 8. Cut off the protruding ends of the studs with a grinder. Be careful with the logs, do not damage the integrity of the lumber with the saw blade.

Installing floors with leveling plywood

This sub-floor is only suitable for laminate or soft flooring. For installation, you need to buy a set of factory-made elements, the work is more difficult to perform.

Step 1. Mark on a sheet of plywood where the bushings will be installed, drill holes of the specified diameter. The sleeves should be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the sheet, the distance between them should not be more than thirty centimeters. Drill the holes vertically, if the edges are inclined, you will have to re-drill them. This takes time and significantly increases the installation time of the adjustable floor.

Photo - drilling a hole in plywood

Step 2... Insert the threaded bushings into the holes on the bottom side, fix them with small self-tapping screws, they should not turn when adjusting the floor height. Manufacturers provide four places for fixing the bushings, so much is not needed, it is enough to fix it with two self-tapping screws.

Step 3... Make markings on the floor, try not to cut the sheets into small pieces. Layout is a plan for cutting sheets. It is advisable to draw it on paper, think over several options, and only then it will be possible to choose the best one from them.

Step 4. Screw in all the plastic bolts, turn the plywood sheet to the desired position. Tighten the bolts the same number of turns. After installing the first sheet of plywood, pay attention to the level at which the bolts are located. In the next sheet of plywood, try to screw the bolts in the same position.

Step 5. Using a special wrench, screw in / unscrew the bolts until the plywood sheet is in a strictly horizontal position at the required height. Constantly check its position with a level on several planes. Very important! All bolts must be slightly stressed, otherwise the plywood will bend. The work is quite complex, do not make the plywood sheets large. You have to reach for every bolt with concrete floor... It is very difficult to adjust the position of the plywood sheet and at the same time to be on it.

Keep in mind that the fasteners to the concrete base are not fixed, the floor is "floating". This factor should be taken into account when deciding on the arrangement of floor coverings in each particular room.

Step 6. After installing the last plywood sheet, check the sub-floor position again. Remember that the adjustment parameters do not exceed 2 ÷ 3 centimeters. If the concrete base has too large irregularities, then you will have to pre-level it. Plywood should only be waterproof.

Do not use chipboard, OSB or other materials instead of reinforced plywood, although some manufacturers give such recommendations. Pressed materials react very poorly to multidirectional point forces; in these places they quickly lose their initial bearing capacity. Namely, such loads are present in the places where the plates are adjusted. Although plywood is much more expensive, its price will pay off during the operation of the floor.

Prices for anchors for sheet materials

anchors for sheet materials

1. Do not forget to leave 1 ÷ 2 centimeters wide gaps around the perimeter of the room near the walls for natural ventilation and to compensate for the expansion of wooden structures. These gaps are then closed with skirting boards and become invisible.

   

2. For lag, choose only high-quality lumber with minimum amount knots. Large cracks visible fungal diseases and mold damage is not allowed.

   

3. Do not drill holes for pins on knots, it is better to move them a few centimeters. The fact is that wood, in the event of a violation of the integrity of a healthy knot, significantly loses its strength. The device of adjustable floors presupposes the presence of efforts not over the entire area of ​​the log, but only at several points. This feature requires increased strength indicators from wood. This remark also applies to the bearing base of the floor, point forces also act on it, the load per square millimeter increases significantly. Accordingly, the concrete must be strong, it is not allowed to deviate from the existing building standards during its manufacture. Any deviations in strength will lead to the destruction of the base under the stops over time, the floors will begin to sag and, as a result, it is very unpleasant to creak. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds without dismantling the entire structure.

   

4. The higher the level of the adjustable floor above the slab, the more it “sounds”. To reduce the noise level, it is recommended to use pressed mineral wool. At the same time, it will insulate the floor.

   

And the main advice in conclusion. Use adjustable floor options only as a last resort. Practice shows that the number of disadvantages of such structures exceeds the number of advantages. The cost of only regulated lags can exceed the total cost of flooring made by ordinary the traditional way... Decide what to do faster: put several logs at once or drill dozens of holes in them and then "screw" in the sweat of your brow with bolts and nuts.

Video - How to make an adjustable floor

Floor slabs with adjustable posts
Disadvantages of adjustable floors
Characteristics of regulated soil on logs
Choice of adjustable soil
Floor types with adjustable brackets
Floor construction with adjustable flags
Floor coverings with adjustable feet
Tips for installing adjustable foot structures

Contemporary flooring options include adjustable floors in the latest design.

The day system, mounted on mobile brackets, makes the floor surface completely flat with minimal physical effort.

Manufacturers produce several versions of the so-called "adjustable floors", depending on the purpose of a particular space, the estimated height of the floor covering and the condition in which the substrate is located.

If it is necessary to raise the level of the floor to the desired height in order to accommodate the various utilities below the surface, a DNT structure with adjustable footrests can be installed. They not only ensure perfect uniformity of the flooring of all materials, but also allow the installation of the frame when the floors between the floors in the house are wooden elements.

The top mold is capable of lifting the cover to a height of 5 centimeters or more, depending on the cross-section of the logs and the dimensions of the polymer screws. The system can be attached to wood or cement floors or other type of foundations.

When it is necessary to solve the problem of leveling rough ground without losing the height of the space, the adjustable bottom structure on the plates can be adjusted.

It is used to prepare the substrate for installation, such as laminated or parquet panels, provided that the difference in height does not exceed 2 mm with 2 linear meters. The maximum amount of lifting of the floor covering in this case does not exceed 5 centimeters, which corresponds to the thickness of a standard concrete screed.

The parameters of DNT adjustable structures allow for a short time to create a strong and durable floor, characterized by excellent thermal and sound insulation of the room. In this case, there is no need to deal with dusty and wet processes, as in the case of installing cement sand. The cost of the DNT system does not exceed the cost of traditional leveling options such as semi-dry or concrete screeds and Knauff flooring.

If the soil rises 5 centimeters or more, you can save a lot when preparing a rough substrate for finishing.

Disadvantages of adjustable floors

As for the disadvantages of this design, they can arise if the requirements for proper operation were not met during installation.

DNT adjustable floors with high quality installation become a reliable and durable base for everyone finished materials for the floor. This will not only be an opportunity to move on foot, but also to travel by car.

Failure to assemble the DNT system or the wrong type of fasteners for the adjustable flag will render the soil unusable for a short period of time.

Characteristics of regulated soil on logs

The structural solution of such floors has the following characteristics:

1. It is possible to create adjustable floors on logs with your own hands without experienced craftsmen.

   How to make adjustable floors

   You just need to buy quality materials and supplies of some tools.

2. The floors will not exceed one or two days. In exchange for dry concrete, it will take about a month.
3. The adaptive design allows, if necessary, to install engineering communications in a technologically free space.

   This saves space and, at the same time, impervious floor coverings.

4. With the help of an adjustable system, it is possible to significantly increase the sound insulation in the room, which is why in recent years such floors have been installed not only in residential buildings, but also in recording studios and concert halls.
5. Just weigh similar structures to use them successfully in areas where they are poorly covered, such as in private homes or on balconies.
6. There are almost no dust and dirt jobs when adjusting the leveling floors.

   That is why this option is the ideal solution for areas where cleanliness is required.

7. As shown in the picture, the adjustable floor system is capable of carrying a load of about 2.5 tonnes per square meter, which means that it can be installed in offices for various purposes - office, residential, warehouse, commercial.

Choice of adjustable soil

While regulated structures have many benefits, many property owners are hesitant to install them during refurbishment.

• if the rough ground is difficult or impossible to settle, because it has great differences and disadvantages;
• when leveling the substrate, for many technical reasons, you cannot use materials with a high weight;
• If the floor covering must be created with different heights;
• when engineering communications must be placed underground;
• if there is a need for additional noise and thermal insulation.

Floor types with adjustable brackets

In the modern market, consumers are offered two types of flooring:

• A structure containing adjustable floor coverings;
• floor systems with adjustable brackets.

The main difference between these varieties is the difference in height.

When installing systems on logs, the amount of lift is 5 centimeters or more. As for the adjustable plate structure, it can be lifted up to a maximum of 3 centimeters.

Installation work related to the installation of adjustable systems on logs and boards is carried out using a similar technology that allows you to do it yourself.

Floor construction with adjustable flags

The seals for them are made from the plane rays.

The size of wooden elements usually does not exceed 50 × 50 centimeters. First, you need to prepare your tools and building materials.

To install the floor, you need:

• lags behind the rods;
• level;
• polymer screws;
• nails with dowels;
• hammer;
• drilling.

At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out:

1. Clean the base.

   Build utilities if necessary.

2. Tighten the wood screws. If there are threaded holes in the rods, the screw is screwed into the support for adjustable logs.

   Otherwise, they must be performed independently. At a distance of 2 meters, at least 5 holes must be made. This simple operation is accomplished by drilling with a flared top. For rigidity of the installation, it is necessary to drill a little less than the diameter of the bolt.

3. After manually tightening the screws, tighten the screws with a drill and a special nozzle.

During the installation phase, the following steps are taken:

1. Wooden sticks are scattered on the ground.

   In this case, the difference between them depends on the type of floor area. When the floor plan is covered with linoleum or slab, the distance between the joists should be up to 30 centimeters. Leave at least one centimeter between flags and walls to allow adequate ventilation.

2. When the adjustment of the adjustable logs is complete, proceed to firmly fasten the screws to the rough surface. Take a solid drill bit and make a hole about 4 centimeters long through the pin in the concrete.
3. Then the spindle was fixed in it and driven by a hammer, fixing the bolt to the bottom of the floor.

   The hole must be securely fastened so that the structure is not movable.

In the process of smoothing the surface:

1. When the adjustable full clamps are installed around the perimeter of the space and securely fastened, they begin to repair them.

   This applies the rule and key that needs to be adapted.

2. Let's break down to a height that shouldn't exceed 1-2 millimeters. Using a wrench and focusing on the measurements, we begin to raise or lower the screws that aim for perfect alignment.

On the the final stage complete the following tasks:

1. When the adjustable flags are flattened by hand, the nails are finally secured with a hammer.
2. On racks that are cut with a knife or other tools to cut out unnecessary residue.
3. Where necessary, sound or thermal insulation materials are placed between the logs.
4. On the logs, or better on top, fix the floor.

   The choice of materials depends on the purchased flooring. Typically, the floor is made of slabs made of plywood, rarely using DSP or GVL slabs, on top of which is linoleum or laminate flooring.

5. Directly on the floor for adjustable installation floor finish.

Floor coverings with adjustable feet

This option is used if the height of the floor surface does not exceed 3 centimeters.

In such a narrow space, it is hardly possible to hide the connection, but telephone cable and Internet wiring will be available. This type of installation technology is similar to the installation of adjustable floors on logs.

It is necessary to prepare a set of adjustable plate presses, consisting of sheets of plywood (other building material), posts, bushes, self-tapping screws.

You will also need: hammer, drill, level (water or laser).

The work begins with the preparatory stage:

1. Prepare work surface, remove debris, dust, pollution. Then separate the messages to be removed underground, remembering that the height of the floor surface should not exceed 3 cm.
2. The leaves are located around the perimeter of the space at a distance of 2-3 centimeters on each side.
3. Mark the points for drilling holes.

   If it has a sheet of 1.5 x 1.5 meters, it should be approximately 9. One of the holes should be placed in the middle of the plywood or other material. Four holes rotate in each corner and 4 in the middle of the sheet. For this reason, it is possible to provide reliable connection plywood.

The panels must be installed in the following order:

1. After marking the holes on the plates, they start drilling.

   Use a special extended tip drill.

2. In the holes already prepared, there are screws with gaskets, and on the underside they attach the bushings with self-tapping screws.
3. When screws are inserted into each of the holes and secured, the sheet is reversed and placed on the structure.
4. Using the screw holes in the hole, drill the holes and insert the dowels into them.

   They lead them halfway.

At the adaptation stage, the following measures are taken:

1. When installed adjustable support, the sheets are aligned. This work is done using a level and a special key.
2. After finishing, carefully cut off additional centimeters.
3. Inch nails are completely driven into the base.

Move on to the final stage:

1. If there is a need to improve the noise and thermal insulation of the soil, suitable materials are placed on the top of the sheet.
2. After the sheets are assembled, the selected deck is installed.

Tips for installing adjustable foot structures

To successfully install this type of floorstanding system, you need:

1. When the adjustment of the adjustable braces is complete, you need to clean the base before laying the floor.

   The fact that uncleaned debris, plastic cutouts, sawdust from the last floor covering can cause pulleys and noise.

2. All fasteners to the floor structure should be tapped and tightened carefully, as this depends on the strength and reliability of the system.
3. Experts recommend mounting like fastener and anchor for an adjustable floor.

   This is the same dowel, but stronger. Anchors provide a secure and permanent anchor. They not only hold the stick in place, but at the same time pull it to the ground, which, in addition to rigidity, also conveys rigidity.

4. When the high floor is set up the best solution is to place your wrists made of soundproof materials.

   There was no noise during the operation of the coating.

5. You don't have to maintain product quality if you want to create a regulated structure. From the financial point of view, it will be more profitable to buy an expensive component right away than to process all the work again.

If you need to relocate a link after the installation is complete, multiple strips of coverage can be removed and then returned.

Adjustable floors

Often, floors on logs cause people to associate with something old, creaky, rotting and obsolete.

Of course, at present there are many advanced technologies for floors that allow you to insulate, waterproof and raise the floor level to a great height, if the idea requires it. However, old, good logs should not be ruled out - the solution is simple and, with high-quality installation, will eliminate the disadvantages typical of such floors.

Benefits of adjustable lags

The most indisputable advantages of adjustable floors are the ability to raise the floor level to a greater height without increasing the overall weight of the structure and the speed of installation, in comparison with various screeds and self-leveling floors.

The big advantage is the absence of wet processes and therefore no need for drying. Insulation of such floors also does not cause any problems - polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, all of these materials are acceptable. In comparison with self-leveling, floating screeds, high requirements for the density of the insulation are not imposed on the insulation and it is possible to choose a budget material.

When pouring a screed up to 5-10 centimeters thick, the advantages of a lag are not relevant, however, situations often occur when the floor level needs to be raised by 15 or more centimeters. Such heights may be required with a large difference in floor slabs, with a partial renovation of an apartment, where you have to dock with the old floor on the logs.

Of course, there are screeds with the addition of expanded clay, various floating screeds that allow you to raise the floor level and at the same time insulate.

As a rule, the cost of materials and work increases, and if a 5 cm screed is 1.5-2 times cheaper than an adjustable floor, then with layers of more than 10 centimeters, the cost of the lag remains the same, which cannot be said about wet screeds.

Flaws

The disadvantages of floors on logs include the risk that the floor will creak; in an aggressive, humid environment, the tree is not so durable. The question with a creak is practically reduced to zero when choosing high-quality, dried logs and the right fasteners.

Many are confused by the possibility of laying tiles such floors - this problem can be solved, the logs are exposed in enough in order to exclude significant deflections in the canvas, gypsum fiber is laid over the canvas.

Gypsum fiber serves as a damper, with a large fluctuation in the size of the canvas from changes in humidity, the gypsum fiber board is quite stable and does not provoke the tile to snap off.

The material of the canvas laid on the logs is quite diverse: from the most budgetary chipboard and ending with plywood in two layers. Sliced ​​boards, lining and OSB - you must agree, there is a very wide choice for the floor on the logs.

How to make a flat floor on adjustable logs with your own hands

Outcomes

Let's summarize: in repairs, where standard screeds and self-leveling floors do not cause high loads on the floor and the layers are thin enough - adjustable joists are not relevant.

Where it is necessary to raise the floor level by 10+ centimeters, logs become a very practical solution. High-quality installation is important, it will prevent creaking, subsidence and other inherent wood floors Problems.

Self-assembly of adjustable lags

Regulated flooring companies overestimate their professionalism and the uniqueness of their technology too. I will try to dispel some myths, because I have worked in this area for several years.

Consider important points in installation.

Anchors, fasteners

Anchors are needed to attach the lags to the concrete base, plastic dowels are not able to cope with the loads that the lags are subjected to.

The so-called plastic sleeves, which are screwed into the log and attached to concrete, are very inconvenient to install, they can only be bought from those who are professionally engaged in floor installation. Naturally very expensive. In addition, they have dubious reliability, the sleeve is attached to the concrete base with a dowel-nail.

The most reliable fasteners can be assembled on their own, despite the cunning marketing of "sex companies". At the same time, the components for the rack are usually available in most stores.

So, homemade fasteners for adjustable lags... The base is a expansion anchor (driven), it firmly holds in concrete and is easy to install, it can be steel or brass, the anchor expands due to a screwed bolt.

Brass is preferred. A product is suitable for M10 or M8 threads, in fact other components are selected based on the selected diameter. The next element is a bolt, suitable diameter to the anchor and the corresponding length, the higher the logs need to be raised, the longer. Instead of a bolt, you can take long studs and cut them into the desired length, however, a special tool is needed to screw in the studs.

Two nuts with washers (preferably reinforced) are screwed onto the bolt, in fact, a lag is clamped between these nuts / washers.

The resulting fastener is very reliable and easy to use.

It does not pull out even if the lags were out raw wood, the log leads when dry, and the anchor holds.

Lags

Usually a block of 50 x 40 mm is used, but if the height allows, you can take a block thicker. In thicker blocks, fasteners to the base can be used less frequently.

As a standard, a 3-meter log is attached to 7 anchors. Lags are set with a step of 30-40 cm, depending on the material of the cover sheets.

Lags should be chosen dry and without too much kinks and screws. The worse the lag is dried, the more likely it will squeak in the future. Ideally dry planed bars, planed after drying, but finding such is not always easy. Usually in the stores are sold planed on "raw" and then naturally dried bars, they have a bent shape. You can use them, but you should carefully choose those that are smoother.

Note that the logs do not have to be planed and smooth, the priority is straight and not "screw". You should also avoid knots if the hole with the anchor falls on a knot - the lag will significantly lose its strength.

The prepared logs can be treated with an antifungal agent; this will not interfere in potentially damp rooms.

How to cover the lags

Materials can be varied, from rough to finishing. For the subsequent final finishing, you can lay the usual edged board- this option is more suitable for a private house.

Sheet materials are suitable for both a private and an apartment building. It can be plywood, chipboard, OSB. All these materials are considered rough, with the subsequent laying of linoleum, laminate and parquet boards... With additional plasterboard flooring, tiles are laid.

TO topcoat refers batten, lining.

Further finishing consists of sanding and painting (although it is often useful to do this before installation).

Of the sheet material, I would like to note plywood - it is strong, durable and tolerates moisture well. Due to the different orientation of the veneer layers, plywood is less prone to "walking" in size.

There is, however, one not pleasant drawback: in most cases, the thickness of the sheets may differ slightly by 1-2 mm, and the difference may be present at different ends of the same sheet. Because of this difference, for linoleum flooring, for example, you will have to putty the seams. However, despite this, plywood is considered the most the best material for adjustable floors - 10 mm plywood in two layers is the most durable solution.

Plywood not thinner than 18 mm is placed in one layer.

Preparation of the base

A concrete base is required to securely anchor the anchors. Usually, in commercials, the lag fasteners are installed in a perfectly aligned cement-sand screed(DSP). But the reality is that for real work, leveling the base is not required this time, moreover, usually the screed does not have sufficient strength to reliably hold the anchor.

If, in your case, the installation will be carried out for some reason at the DSP, then you should drill into the concrete. Or check the strength of your screed by tightening a test anchor.

Preparation consists in cleaning, foaming and covering up various cracks in order to avoid drafts. You should also mark the location of future lags, this is done on the walls, where the middle of the lag will be. When marking, one should take into account the centimeter gaps of the sheets from the walls so that the seams clearly fall into the middle of the log.

The easiest way to do the markup is: from the beginning, the logs are marked on which the joints of the sheets will be, and only then the remaining logs are distributed between the seams so that the distance between them does not exceed 30-40 cm.

I want to note: usually all the logs are made parallel, on the seams perpendicular to the logs, additional logs are not required, more on that later. Of course, the lags can be set as you like, there can be both longitudinal and transverse, the point is that you do not need to make extra crosshairs.

Installation lag

From my own experience, I was convinced: it is more convenient to drill holes for bolts and nuts for nuts in place. If you make holes with sweeps in advance, the possibility of moving the fasteners is excluded, this may be required when the fasteners fall on weakness in concrete, in a smeared void and so on.

This is my personal opinion, you can certainly drill holes in the logs in advance. I will describe my method, and it's up to you how it is more convenient and practical. This method is not relevant with ready-made fasteners purchased from online stores - there, to fix the anchor, you need to tighten the lowest nut.

The lag is laid on the marked place, with a puncher, a hole is drilled right through the lag in the concrete base. After drilling, the anchor is immediately inserted without washers and nuts. This will prevent the lag from moving during further drilling. I want to note that in panel and monolithic houses in most cases, the thickness of the overlap is no more than 10 centimeters, so it is highly undesirable to drill more than 5 cm, be careful! After drilling, you need to clean the hole with the same perforator in the drilling mode so that all the crumb gets out.

Thus, all the logs are drilled, the bolts are tightened in the anchors. The fasteners are securely fixed in the concrete, but the joists have a free play up and down.

After tightening the anchors, the bolt heads are cut off, the lags are pulled off.

One nut is screwed onto each protruding stud and one washer is put on. It is not easy to screw a nut onto a sawn-off bolt, so it is useful to have a small file at hand, adjusting the sawed edges of the nut is easier to screw on. Further, in the logs, they drill pots for the upper nuts, put them back in their places, adjust the position of the logs with the lower nuts and pull them from above with a second nut and washer.

It is most convenient to adjust the lag using a laser level. A tubular wrench is convenient for tightening the upper nuts, an open-end wrench for adjusting the lower ones.

After all the adjustments, the studs sticking out above the lag are cut off. The installation of the lag is completed. If insulation was conceived, the insulation is laid and foamed. The excess foam is trimmed off and the floor is ready to be laid.

Flooring

The most important thing in flooring is to align the sheets so that the seams fall into the middle of the logs. It may happen that the seams will be significantly displaced, if the sheet does not go to the lag by at least a centimeter, you will have to change the layout of the sheets or do additional seams, twisting the lag is much more problematic. Seams running across the lag are pulled together from below with a bar or the same sheet material.

It is important to leave a 5-15 mm gap from the walls, the canvas will expand where if something happens, this will in some cases avoid the floor creak.

When laying plywood, an unpleasant phenomenon may occur: self-tapping screws may not sink into the canvas and burst, it turns out not a tight attraction and a creak may appear in this place.

In the place of the burst self-tapping screw, you need to tighten a new one, stepping back a few centimeters. If the screws burst too often, there are two ways out: take instead of 3mm screws thicker, for example 6mm, or, before tightening, do a pot with a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the cap.

That's all, like, I hope I gave you comprehensive information.

Return to the section "Apartment renovation"

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Design: ® Creative workshop of Fyodor Rashpil.

Wood floors are the warmest, greenest and most beautiful of all types of floors because:

• wood has a fibrous structure, it has, at the same time, strength and flexibility, as well as a relatively low thermal conductivity;
• wood is a material that "breathes", that is, it absorbs moisture from the environment and gives it back, optimizing the humidity in the room;
• has a unique texture, which "plays" with skillful processing: due to the difference in density, color and pattern.

There are certain design features of plank flooring.

This is the laying of logs - wooden beams - on a supporting structure with a certain step. To understand how to make a floor on logs and choose the most suitable option for specific conditions, you need to find out what types of wooden floor structures are.

In private housing construction, various materials of supporting and enclosing structures are used, they are built on different types of soil, which determines the choice of the foundation.

As soon as the house is erected, the question is being decided how to install the logs so that the floor is strong and stable. This will depend on the size of the room, because even for a room with an area of ​​1x1 m, you need a support for the logs in the middle. Therefore, you need to decide, choose as a base for lags support pillars or the foundation of intermediate walls.

Installation of the floor on joists on beams and support pillars

As a support for the lag, a strapping of beams is arranged along the inner perimeter of the foundation.

For support between the beams, intermediate pillars are arranged every 500-600 mm. Technologically, it looks like this:

• A pit is being dug, it will also serve as a formwork: 400x400 mm and 400 mm in depth.
• First, sand is rammed in it - with a layer of 10 cm, then crushed stone - 10 cm.
• Then the solution is poured with a layer of 20 cm.
• When the foundation is ready, a column is laid out of ceramic bricks on it to the level of the lag.
• From above, under the logs, waterproofing is laid on the pillar.

The logs are laid, resting on the bars around the perimeter and the pillars, between them, so that their ends do not reach the basement wall or grillage by 2-3 cm (this is necessary to expand the tree).

The lags should overlap the support by at least 10 cm.

The grillage is the upper part of the foundation of the house. It can be "low" - somewhat recessed relative to the "zero mark" - the ground level. Or "high" - raised above the ground. If the foundation is piled, the grillage is made to tie the individual pillars - the piles into a single structure and in order to serve as the foundation for the intermediate walls of the house.

The section of the lag, depending on the load on the floor, will be 10x20 or 15x20 cm.

Their length, preferably, should be enough from one wall to the other.

The step between the lags will depend on the width of the insulation used - this will make the installation process more convenient ( optimal size 1m).

There is an opinion that the logs should lie in the room for several days before fastening, and only then they can be fixed.

Before making the floor on the logs, communications can be laid between them.

It is necessary that the insulation be 5-7 cm below the lag level.

This is necessary so that there is a gap for ventilation between the insulation and the finished floor layer. It is better to calculate the dimensions of the insulation and the lag immediately in order to observe the technology when laying (the layer of insulation can be 10-15 cm).

If, nevertheless, the height of the log is not enough for the ventilation device, counter-rails can be stuffed on them, which should have the same width as the logs.

Floor device algorithm

1. First, the beams, then the logs are attached to the base with perforated (anchor) corners, stacked on them.

   Self-tapping screws with a length of 3-4 cm are used for fastening.

2. Skull bars with a cross section of 4x4 cm are attached to their lower edge along the logs. They serve as a support for boards or plywood (subfloor), on which the insulation will be laid.
3. Before laying the insulation, the boards and logs must be covered with a layer of high-quality waterproofing, with access to the walls, to a level above the finished floor, so that moisture from the underground space does not get into the insulation. The waterproofing is fastened with a stapler to the tree.
4. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the laid insulation and the lag, which should also be removed to the level of the baseboards.

   It is tightly pressed against the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the sidewalls of the log.

5. A finishing floor is laid on the logs. It can be boardwalk and will fit across the log. If you intend to lay parquet, laminate or other sectional floor, a substrate should be laid under it: chipboard, OSB or cement-bonded chipboard (DSP), which have sound and heat insulation properties.

Between the ends of the finished floor and the wall, a gap of 1-2 cm must be left, left for the thermal expansion of the wood, which will then be covered with a plinth.

To ventilate the underfloor space with an uninsulated basement, holes are left in it for air vents, which are d.

b. closed with protective nets, from rodents. In summer, the goal of airing and drying is achieved, but in cold weather the subfloor is greatly cooled, cooling the floor as well. Therefore, it is recommended to close the air vents for the winter.

A more suitable option when the basement is insulated from the inside or outside, and the ventilation is arranged internally - the channels are brought out into the room and hidden behind the baseboards.

Installation of the floor on the joists along the intermediate walls

It differs from installation on pillars in the construction of the foundation.

The strip foundation is arranged under each wall and, thus, breaks down the entire basement space into separate rooms.

All installation steps are repeated, only the logs will rest on the foundations of the intermediate walls or beams attached to them.

Since an air supply is needed to ventilate the subfloor, it is difficult to organize it in intermediate rooms.

For the free passage of air through the walls, through holes are made, as well as ventilation ducts are laid in the structure of the enclosing walls, taking air from the room.

Installation of the floor on logs on the floor slab

It is clear that it is not necessary to ventilate the floor from below, in this case, as well as to lay the subfloor, as a substrate for the insulation.

DIY adjustable floors

But it is still necessary to arrange soundproofing and, at the same time, to insulate. The better this is done, the warmer the floor will be and the less you will hear the voices and punching sound coming from the lower floor.

The lags are laid parallel to the short side of the room. Their size depends on the layer of insulation that is supposed to be laid under the floor.

If the floor slabs are not entirely even, the horizontal log can be achieved using a level and placing pieces of plywood under the logs.

The cavities between the logs are laid with insulation or filled up, for example, with expanded clay.

On top of the insulation, a sheet of polyethylene or insulation of the "penofol" type is laid, which will reflect the heat inward and is attached with a stapler to the sides of the log. The remaining space of 1.5-2 cm will serve for ventilation of the space under them.

Then a finishing floor is arranged along the logs, with the obligatory arrangement of gaps between the coating and the wall.

01/18/2014 at 20:01

Fastening the lag to the floor: pros and cons
Log laying technology
Fixing the lag with self-tapping screws
Using anchors
Fixing lag corners
Fastening adjustable lags

Quite often, in residential premises, a floor is organized on logs, which allows you to use any type of insulation and sound insulation, various materials for the subfloor.

Thus, you can make any surface even and lay the necessary communications under the floor. Installation of this floor is quite simple, and from an economic point of view, it is not very expensive.

The result is a structure with a small load on the base. And of course, when installing such a floor, the question arises: is it necessary to fasten the logs to the floor and, if it is necessary to do this, then how to fasten the logs to concrete floor.

In this article, we will give answers to these questions.

Fastening the lag to the floor: pros and cons

According to the opponents of the fastening, these actions can destroy the screed, and where the beams and the base are connected, sound insulation is broken, and sound bridges are formed, which the neighbors from below will not be happy with.

And those who believe that fixation is necessary share their experience: all the work done to repair the floor was in vain due to the deformation of the log.

Is everything really as they say? Regarding the destruction of the screed, if the screed is quite strong, then it will not be possible to break it with a drill when drilling a hole.

And repairing the floor is possible only if there is a solid foundation. If the old screed began to collapse, then it must be removed.

The problem of breaking sound insulation remains controversial.

Rigid structures can actually transmit sound. However, in the space between the lags is placed insulation material, which has sound insulating characteristics. A gasket is placed under the logs, which has shock-absorbing properties, which also prevents sound propagation.

The sound bridge, which forms at the attachment point, transmits vibrations to concrete, which is a fairly dense material and, unlike wood, does not conduct sound well.

Therefore, the neighbors below will not notice changes in the noise level before and after the repair.

The floor on the logs is constructed from beams, fasteners, rough flooring. When all the components are displaced relative to each other, a creak occurs, which is unlikely to please the neighbors. You can prevent the appearance of an unpleasant sound by rigidly fixing the logs to the floor.

Another argument speaks in favor of fastening - fixing the lag. When it comes to the degree of wood drying, buyers are forced to believe the seller's words, since it is impossible to find out by simple inspection.

Over time, poorly dried bars can warp, as a result, the coating will move, and the whole complex construction the floor will be skewed.

For those who are wary of fixing the joists to a concrete base, a floating floor can be organized. In this case, the deck is not attached to the supporting structures... This will provide excellent sound insulation, but well dried logs must be used.

They will not warp over time.

The bars are fastened to each other in such a way that a lattice is obtained. This design will make the floating floor more stable. Insulation is laid in the gap between the beams, and a subfloor is constructed on top.

As a result, the entire structure is pressed against the floor under its own weight. Over time, such a floor will not change its shape and will serve for a long time.

In most cases, the installation of lags on a concrete base is carried out with them fixed to the floor, since there are much more arguments in favor of this than probable disadvantages.

Log laying technology

We will analyze step by step how to install logs on a concrete floor:

1. Quality materials are the key to a successful renovation.

   You can use coniferous timber. Its moisture content should not exceed 18%. The acquired bars must be allowed to acclimatize for several days in the room where the floor is planned to be made. Lags that begin to bend should be set aside and not used in the flooring device.

   The wooden components of the future structure should be treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic agent, which will prevent the appearance of mold and insects.

2. The base is being prepared, that is, the surface is cleared of debris, all cracks are rubbed, protrusions are knocked off.
3. The tree should be protected from moisture, that is, it is necessary to perform waterproofing.

   For this, materials are used in the form of rolls, hydrophobic mastics, impregnating compounds, a dense film.

4. Prepare the necessary tools for the job., fasteners and substrates for raising the log. The substrates must necessarily be rigid, which will not sag over time, so that voids do not form at the support points. You can take thin planks, pieces of plywood, or purchase special plastic backings.
5. Lags should be laid across sun rays falling from the window.

   Wood can be deformed during temperature changes, and when laid in this way, all logs will warm up evenly. In rooms like a hallway, logs must be laid across the movement. This will give the floor more strength.

6. Depending on the thickness of the rough flooring, the distance between the beams is selected.

   The greater the thickness and the higher the strength, the farther from each other the logs are laid. As a rule, the distance is approximately 40-50 cm.

   The logs closest to the wall should be 2-3 cm away from it, and others, depending on the size of the room.

7. After complete assembly lathing, it should be brought out in a horizontal plane... It is best to have a level base. There are masters who even make thin cement screed, provided that the difference in floor level allows it.

   It is possible not to perform the screed, since the use of a lag allows you to level even a very uneven floor. If the timber is below the required level, then substrates are placed under it.

8. To provide cushioning and additional waterproofing to wood it is necessary to lay the logs on linoleum, roofing material, polyethylene foam or something else.

   It is important that the material used is not soft. Otherwise, after a while, it will sag from the pressure acting on it, as a result, a gap is formed, which ultimately will lead to the appearance unpleasant sounds such as creaking.

After completing the construction of the structure from the lag, it remains only to fix them to the floor.

There are the following ways how to attach the joists to the concrete floor:

• using dowels and self-tapping screws;
• fastening with anchors;
• the use of galvanized corners and self-tapping screws.

The choice of fastening method depends on financial capabilities and personal preference.

Fixing the lag with self-tapping screws

Such fasteners for lags, such as self-tapping screws, are the simplest and inexpensive option, but at the same time guaranteeing excellent results.

Symmetrical holes must be drilled in the logs and base. Then dowels are inserted into them and self-tapping screws are screwed in.

The distance between the holes can vary from 40-80 cm depending on the case.

The length of the self-tapping screw should be equal to the thickness of the timber plus 5-6 cm.

You can use self-tapping screws with threads that do not reach the cap. They allow you to better press the joists to the floor.

Using anchors

To obtain a reliable and long-term fastening, you can take a log floor anchor. In addition to holding the timber in one place, they also attract it to the surface, giving the entire system additional rigidity.

In essence, the anchor is a dowel, but much more powerful.

Its advantage is its high pull-out resistance, therefore it is used when installing very heavy structures that create a large load on the fasteners. The probability of completely tearing off the floor on the joists from the concrete base approaches zero, so fastening can be done with self-tapping screws. However, anchors are often used for these purposes.

So how do you fix the joists to the concrete floor using anchors? This method is carried out in the same way as for fastening with self-tapping screws.

The same holes are made in the beams and the concrete floor. To prevent the bolt head from sticking out, it must be hidden without damaging the wood; for this, the logs must first be punched out.

Usually, 3-4 anchors are required to secure one log within a room.

The locking element of the anchor should be inserted into the hole in the floor, then a bolt must be screwed into it through the timber.

Anchor bolts are produced in various lengths: 45-200 mm. When choosing a length, you should take into account the thickness of the log plus 6 cm for deepening into the base. It is recommended to purchase anchors with a diameter of 10 mm.

Fixing lag corners

Another fastener for the floor log is used - a galvanized metal corner.

One side of the corner is attached with self-tapping screws to the timber. The self-tapping screw should enter the tree by 3-4 cm and preferably at an angle, this will increase the strength of the connection.

The other side of the corner should rest against the floor.

It should be fixed in the above described ways, that is, using dowels with self-tapping screws or anchors. Instead of corners, you can take a U-shaped profile.

Adjustable floors: analysis of the technology of the device lag on supports with your own hands

Fastening adjustable lags

Installation of an adjustable system is easier and easier to achieve perfect flat surface... In this design, instead of anchors, plastic stands are used, which are screwed into the wood and fixed to the base by means of dowels (in more detail: "How to make adjustable floors on logs with your own hands"). By turning the special bolts, you can set the required height. After the lags are adjusted, the protruding part of the bolts must be cut off.

Conclusion

V wooden house it is not recommended to fix the joists to the floor. And if a concrete screed is used as a base in the room, then in this case whether it is necessary to fasten the logs to the concrete floor or not. In such a situation, the mount will not be superfluous. Everything is done quite simply, the main thing is to use high-quality materials and strictly follow all the rules.

Then the design will turn out to be reliable and will serve for a long time.

We make an adjustable floor on logs instead of a concrete screed

Concrete screed by its structure does not allow to form a surface that would be sufficiently flat, and now more and more often, instead of it, mixtures of the "Betonit" type or technology are used. A good alternative to all these "wet", and therefore labor-intensive and dirty technologies, is the floor on adjustable logs.

In these designs there are special adjustable supports for the lags in the form of plastic bolt-pillars. Moreover, the adjustable lags can be raised or lowered along the thread of these bolt-pillars and thus they can be easily set in level, which guarantees a perfectly flat base for the finishing ones, which means that there is no squeak of floors.

Benefits of an adjustable floor on logs

Compared to leveling with a concrete screed, adjustable joists offer the following advantages:

• excludes wet and dirty technical processes;
• a wide range of floor lifting levels from 5 to 15 cm and higher is provided without any additional material and labor costs;
• saving money when raising the floor over 7 cm;
• the speed of the installation process (100 m 2 in two days);
• guarantee high precision alignment;
• increased heat and sound insulation;
• placement of all types of communications in an underground space, which makes it easier to access them during repair or replacement;
• the lightness of the structure, which makes it indispensable in houses where a large load on the floors is technologically unacceptable.

The following are possible constructive options adjustable lag.

Also read the materials:

• A standard set of plastic bolts-pillars and elements of their fastening to concrete + a separately purchased wooden beam for joists. This option involves the maximum amount of DIY work. It will be necessary to drill holes in the logs, and then cut the threads into them with a tap for plastic bolt-posts.
• A standard set of plastic bushings, stud bolts and fasteners to concrete + a separately purchased wooden beam for joists. Unlike the previous version, here, after drilling the holes in the logs, ready-made plastic bushings with an internal thread are inserted into them, which are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws.
• A standard set of adjustable joists, including wooden logs with ready-made threaded holes for bolt-posts, as well as a set of bolts-posts themselves and their fasteners to concrete. Plastic bolts-pillars have internal through cone-shaped holes for passing through them elements of fastening bolts-pillars to concrete (dowel-nails) or wood (self-tapping screws). Going down in such a hole, the dowel-nail is self-centering along its axis. In the upper wide part of the hole, a hexagon wrench is formed for screwing the stud bolt either into a threaded bushing, or directly into threaded hole in the lag.

Floor installation on adjustable joists (video)

The main stages of installation of an adjustable floor on logs

Preparatory work

1. The room in which it is planned to carry out work on the installation of adjustable lags is measured. Based on the measurements, the amount of timber for the logs is calculated with a margin for cutting, bolts for mounting and dowel-nails for attaching them to concrete.
2. The level of the floor slab is checked and the final floor level is set taking into account the height of the flooring (plywood, OSB) and the height of the topcoat.
3. Through holes are drilled in the logs with the required pitch with a feather drill, then, if you do not have threaded bushings, a thread is cut in the holes with a tap. If you purchased ready-made plastic bushings, then they are inserted into smooth holes and fastened to the lags with self-tapping screws.
4. Using a hex key, the bolts are screwed into the holes of the log - the extreme screws in each log are screwed in completely, and the middle ones - to a small depth.

Important! If the surface of the floor slab under the upright bolt is very uneven, then it should be leveled with a chisel. The stud bolts must be firmly attached to the concrete. Minimum distance there should be 10 mm between the floor slab and the joists.

Installation lag

• First, logs are installed along the perimeter of the room with an offset of 10-70 mm from the walls, the distance between the wall and the ends of the log is 10-30 mm. When choosing a step between the lags, one should take into account the dimensions of the sheets (slabs) of the flooring. The edges of the flooring slabs should rest on the joists and end near their central axes. The standard size of the step between the lags is 400-600 mm, however, in order to strengthen the structure, this step can be reduced to 300 mm. It is allowed to install lag trims with support on two bolt-posts.
• The first in each lag are the extreme bolts-pillars. They are screwed into the log to the required depth, controlling the preliminary position of the log according to the level, after which all the rest of the rack bolts are lowered to the level of the plate.
• After that, a thin drill is inserted into all the holes of the bolt-racks and holes are marked in the concrete for the dowel-nails.
• The lag is removed and the marked holes are drilled in the concrete. The lag is again installed, a dowel-nail is inserted into each bolt-stand, which goes down along the tapered hole and falls exactly into the hole drilled in the concrete.
• Next, the dowel-nails are slightly recessed in the 2 extreme bolts-uprights with the help of a doboiner. The lag is set to the required height by rotating the two extreme bolt-pillars with a hexagon, controlling the process by level.
• Finally, the extreme dowel-nails are hammered into the concrete. Then the remaining bolt-pillars are screwed into the logs until they stop on the plate, the dowel-nails are sunk and hammered in each bolt-rack.

With a chisel, using a hammer, the protruding ends of the bolts are cut off from the upper plane of the log. Check the rigidity of fastening the bolts-pillars to the floor slab by pressing on each lag and trying to tear it off (lateral loosening is prohibited).

If some bolt-post is not well fixed to the floor slab, it is unscrewed. Remove the dowel-nail and increase the depth of the hole in the concrete. The holes are dedusted and the stud bolt is reinstalled.

If the required rigidity of fastening to the base is not achieved, then use another fastener. For example, in the form of an RDK - a nylon expansion dowel with a screw. Screws in RDK-dowels are screwed with a long bit with a screwdriver or drill. The screw must not be under-tightened or turned in the dowel thread.

Floor installation on adjustable joists (video)

Adjustable lags on metal studs

Consider how you can arrange adjustable logs from materials that can be purchased at any building materials store.

Regular steel studs can be used as adjustable supports for the joists. The design of such adjustable lag on the hairpins is as follows.

• On the logs, a typical dry planed beam with a section of 50x50 mm is taken. Its adjustable support contains an M 6 stud, two nuts, two washers and an anchor sleeve.
• A hole is drilled in the concrete slab, an anchor sleeve is hammered into it onto the spacer, into which a hairpin is screwed.
• The lower (under the lag) nut with a washer is screwed onto the stud. A hole is drilled in the log with a zinc plating on top.
• The lag is put on the stud, so that the nut with the washer are on its bottom side. By turning this nut, you can adjust the position of the log. The second nut (top) is necessary to fix the log at the set level.

As you can see, the modern construction industry offers ever new alternatives to traditional construction technologies... Adjustable is a prime example of such an alternative, making it easier and cheaper to install and repair floors.