How to make a warm floor from wood. How to make a water heated floor in a wooden house. The device of electric transformer substation in the construction of the floor on the logs

Underfloor heating on a wooden base is not an easy task, but possible. The advantages of such a floor are obvious, heat naturally moves from the bottom up, while the absence of batteries adds comfort and convenience. In the case when the finishing layer is made of wood, there are certain nuances and limitations, but they are not so significant as to refuse to use it.

With some knowledge and following the recommendations of experienced professionals, you can independently carry out all the necessary installation work without having professional construction skills. The arrangement process is also simplified by the fact that there is no need to use any special expensive equipment.

Mounting Features

The arrangement consists in laying heating pipes that act as. Such pipes will be located directly under the finished floor covering, which has a certain effect on it.

The following finishing materials can be used as such a coating:

Due to temperature differences finish coat from wood, it is recommended to use separate sources of heating. There are heating devices in which several circulation circuits are provided for such cases.

When wooden beams are used as floors, the possibility of laying heating pipes inside the cement base (screed) is practically excluded. The pressure that the necessary layer of such a screed will exert will be excessive, and creating a structure that can withstand it is irrational.

Ways to install a warm floor

There are not so many mounting options and which one is preferable depends on design features building. Not the last role is played by the cost of materials, the use of which implies one way or another and the technological complexity of the proposed work.

The most common methods are described below:

Modular. Pipes heating system are laid through special grooves that are provided for by the design of the module (often this is a chipboard plate with a thickness of about 22 mm). This method is relatively fast and simple, but due to the high cost of the modules and the mandatory intermediate layer, it is more expensive than other mounting options.
Rack. The difference of this method lies in the fact that the grooves through which the pipes of the heating system must pass are formed by laying out the rails. Relatively high labor costs this method, are compensated by less money.
Mixed. This method involves milling grooves for pipes in a wooden floor. The milling process is not very laborious. It assumes the presence of a milling machine and some skills in handling such a machine.

With the modular method, the pipes of the heating system are laid through special grooves, which are provided for by the design of the module.

Floor device

The whole process of installing a warm wooden floor can be divided into the following stages:

Drawing up a project.
Preparatory work.
Assembly and subsequent testing of the heating pipeline.
Finishing work (laying of fine floor coverings).

Project

Before starting any work, you need to draw up a detailed project and perform all the necessary calculations. It is possible to do it yourself, having studied significant amounts of information, you can order individual project or choose a suitable one from those developed earlier.

The project includes:

Detailed drawing (diagram).
Calculation of heat losses for each room.
Calculation of the amount of heat that should be supplied to each room.
Resistance of the pipeline of the heating system.
Calculation of the pipeline laying step, depending on the heat loss of each room.
The number of consumables that may be needed in the course of the work.

After the project is completed and all necessary calculations you can move on to the next step.

Preparatory work

All included necessary work up to pipe laying. You should start with the arrangement of the lag. The distance between them should not exceed 60 cm.

Before mounting, wooden logs must be treated with antifungal and antiseptic solutions. To exclude the possibility of the appearance of a wood bug, it is unacceptable to leave bark fragments on any wooden products.

Between the lags vapor barrier film it is necessary to lay heat-insulating material (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, penoizol, etc.). The thickness of the insulation depends on the height of the log, but, in general, does not exceed 100 mm.

The next step is the laying of the subfloor, the function of which, on the one hand, is to ensure an even distribution of the load on the logs, to reduce their deformation (if they are used as a floor). On the other hand, it will exclude possible deformation of the finished floor, providing the necessary rigidity.

The subfloor is usually made from some kind of sheet material or from planed boards. The thickness of this floor depends on the distance between the joists, the laying methods and the material used for subsequent layers.

Further actions completely depend on which type of underfloor heating is selected.

Modular option

Modules are mounted on the subfloor, this is usually done with screws or nails, sometimes glue is additionally used.
Inserted into the slots of the modules metal plates for heat reflection, if it is provided for by the design of the module (instead of plates, special foil is sometimes used).
When everything is ready to be laid heat-conducting water circuit.

Warm water floor on a rack basis

According to the project, slats of the required width and thickness are prepared. The thickness of the lath depends on the pipes to be used. Most suitable for living spaces outer thickness pipes -16 mm. The slats must be a few millimeters thicker than the pipe so that there is no unnecessary complications during installation. The width of the board varies between 100 - 200 mm and depends on the amount of heat required in each particular room or area.
Properly prepared slats, screwed with screws to the subfloor, guided by a pre-developed project.
In the grooves obtained after mounting the rails, heat-reflecting plates or foil are laid.
Next, you can do the wiring thermal circuits.

Most often, sheets are used to make rails. laminated chipboard. It is cut into strips of the appropriate size, after which the corners on some strips are rounded, for the convenience of laying the pipeline.

Mixed styling option

If a wooden floor from boards is laid in the room and there is a need to make it warm, this can be done in a mixed way. To do this, you must first remove floorboard. Then, using a milling machine or machine, grooves are made in it, in appropriate places.

After that, the board is fastened back, and the missing grooves are already selected directly on the floor. Heat-reflecting plates are mounted in the grooves, into which the water circuit is then laid.

Connection and test run

After the pipes are laid and connected, as well as other necessary work has been carried out, a test run of the heating system should be done and let it work for some time at critical loads (within acceptable limits).

Floor covering

The choice of material for the finishing coating depends on the method of laying the previous layers and should be carried out at the design stage.

Traditional types of flooring:

Wooden plank. Can be attached directly to the surface in which the pipes are laid. The thickness of the board should not exceed 22 mm. There is an opinion that a foam polyethylene substrate can be placed under the board to compensate for possible unevenness of the base, but it should be remembered that the heat transfer of the floor will decrease.
Floor tiles. These materials must be laid on an intermediate layer of sheet materials (QSB, DSP). This is necessary for the uniform distribution of heat and pressure over these coatings. The advantages of these coatings are good heat dissipation.
Linoleum, carpet. The laying process is similar to tiles, the difference is temperature regime, which should not exceed 25˚.
Laminate floors, parquet. The installation of these coatings is the same as when laying a wooden board. The difference is that these materials cannot be heated more than 25˚.

The most preferred material for water circuits is. However, whichever pipe is used, the presence of additional waterproofing will help protect the wooden floor from possible leaks. As such insulation, a special corrugation for pipes is used. All wooden crafts also need to be treated with water-repellent impregnations.
With a pipe thickness of 16 mm, its length should not exceed 70 m. Also, it is not recommended to make one large general outline on big room, and then divide this room with a wall. It is desirable to make a separate circuit for each room.

For a country house, a wooden bath, an underfloor heating system will become convenient and practical. Underfloor heating, water, the contour of which must be hidden in the underground, is able to efficiently and efficiently heat quite spacious living quarters. This is especially convenient for you to do to improve the habitability of your dacha, to create more comfortable conditions in the bathhouse.

It is not possible to solve such an engineering and technical problem by laying water pipes under a concrete screed. Here affects technological features the very structure and the very nature of the technology. Not every wooden floor or logs underlying the structure can withstand a huge additional load in the form of monolithic slab. The way out of this situation is to make warm floors, water, laid on a wooden floor.

Main idea and practical solution

Enough long time it was generally accepted that mounting water heating circuits directly on wooden floors was not a very good idea. The main reason for this opinion lay in the characteristics building material. Construction wood, despite a lot of technological advantages, is highly susceptible to the effect of thermal deformation. In addition, excessive exposure to moisture also adversely affects the wood. The lightness of wooden structures and insulating properties were considered disadvantages when it came to the installation of more complex thermal and hydraulic structures in the building.

Despite the obvious obstacles, attempts to find a reasonable way out of this situation have led to the emergence of new technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden floor, create heating water systems in wooden buildings. The main thing is to choose the right expendable materials and adhere to certain technology.

To date, there are two types of underfloor heating used in residential buildings as a heating element. About wiring diagram we will not speak, since it has not found its development in combination with wooden structures. Let's pay attention to water system heating - a warm water floor in which hot water runs through the pipes of the heating circuit.

What technical difficulties await us in this case? The principle of operation that underlies this heating system is well known and understood. It makes no difference whether the water circuit lies in a concrete screed, or skillfully hidden in a wooden floor. Water circulating through the pipeline heats the surface of the floor, thereby giving off precious heat to the interior of the heated room.

On a note: skeptics can make a remark - the tree does not conduct heat well, in addition, the wooden structure itself can be deformed as a result of heating. There is something to be said for these comments. The use of special heat-conducting plates makes it possible to achieve that thermal energy will go in a strictly vertical direction, heating the floor covering.

Here we should say a few words about the fact that from a technical point of view, laying heating pipes on a wooden floor is not difficult. If at the initial stage you have a clear idea of what your underfloor heating should be, what type of flooring you will have, it is quite possible to make water floor heating.

Key points

We have already said that it is not always possible to solve the problem simply as you would like. For capital stone structures with concrete floors, a concrete screed for underfloor heating is very convenient. However, in most cases, wooden residential buildings, in which wooden floors, are not able to withstand an additional weight of 10-15 tons. Wood, even if you're dealing with beam system set, cannot withstand such a load. It does not make sense to strengthen the supporting structures during the construction of a country house or a bathhouse. This will lead to an increase in cost and to the weight of the entire structure.

For reference: any water-heated floor involves the creation of a substrate. This element is mandatory for underfloor heating of any type. Without underlayment and one floor covering will not have sufficient support.

The key point in this situation is new technology, thanks to which it was possible not only to significantly reduce the weight of the entire structure of the heating system, but also to ensure that heat began to be transferred directly flooring. The substrate can be successfully covered with linoleum or carpet. The emergence of new practical and high-tech materials allows you to create an entire heating system based on wooden floors in a matter of days. When working with a concrete screed, you will have to strictly adhere to the technology and wait 25-28 days until the screed reaches its maturity.

Assessment of the condition of wooden structures. Pre-insulation

Before proceeding with the design of the "water heated floor" heating system, it is necessary to examine wooden structures, floors, logs and other load-bearing elements. The wooden base, consisting of boards, must be solid. The cracks existing between the boards are carefully sealed with heat-insulating materials. Gender in wooden house usually mounted on logs, so it is important to study their condition and location.

Condition assessment includes:

visual inspection of the surface condition wooden planks;
feeling and scraping the surface of wooden boards to assess the structure of the wood;
elimination of cracked and sagging boards;
alignment of lags in places of deflection;
adding lags if the distance between existing elements is too large.

For reference: if the condition of the wooden floor is unsatisfactory (old cracked or rotten boards), it is better to dismantle such a base. The joists that hold the boards are too far apart. For a warm floor, the logs must be at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.

There is an installation option when a warm floor is laid on wooden lags. Those. in other words, the whole structure will be on top load-bearing structures, representing an independent structure.

Old boards that do not have a marketable appearance must be treated with a jointer to make the surface of the material even and uniform. The maximum allowable height irregularities for a wooden floor are no more than 2 mm. Such care and precision is necessary for a wooden floor due to the fact that there is no substrate in this system.

Having finished with the assessment of the condition and preparation of the wooden floor, you should proceed to the insulation of the structure. Such a preliminary procedure is necessary due to the fact that all the heat radiated by the water circuit should not go down into the underground, but linger and go up.

Reinstall the lags at an acceptable distance, install the raised floor. On the logs, plywood or used boards are nailed from below. This will serve as the basis for the thermal insulation material to be laid. Steam and heat-shielding film should be laid on the prepared base. In the openings between the lags, a heater is laid on the film, the thickness of which should not exceed 100 mm. On top of the insulation, a heat-insulating film is again fixed. Only after all this, you can start laying the heating water circuit.

On a note: It is strongly not recommended to use ordinary polyethylene film as thermal insulation. Neglect of technology will lead to the fact that condensate will begin to accumulate in the subfield. Due to the accumulation of moisture, the insulation may soon become unusable.

Insulation in this situation can be mineral wool, the density of which is 35-40 kg / 3.

Installation of the floorboard and methods of laying heating pipes

At this stage, it is necessary to take into account technological subtleties. Of course, this will take a little more time, but in the future the work will already be carried out much faster. Should be said right away. The layout of the water heating circuit in this case is a "snake". Installation of the pipeline according to the "spiral" or "snail" scheme is unacceptable for this technology.

On the prepared base, we begin laying boards that have a special configuration, equipped with special grooves. Between the boards there should be grooves measuring 20x20 mm. The edges of the boards are turned in a semicircle for a convenient inversion of the water pipe. Having made all the necessary preparations, you can lay all the boards on the prepared base. The presence of grooves and the semicircular edges of the boards are the route for laying the water circuit. This to some extent facilitates the task in the future when installing the underfloor heating pipeline directly.

Ready-made grooves for mounting a water pipe of a water-heated floor under wooden floors are shown in the photo.

Thanks to the grooves, laying the heating circuit is easy and fast. Before working with the pipe, foil is unwound over the grooves. After that, a pipe is laid in the grooves, the diameter of which should not exceed 16 mm. In order to get maximum heat transfer, the pipe is wrapped in foil, attaching its edges with staples to wooden boards.

On top of the pipe, they are attached to the boards with metal plates. According to this scheme, the entire water pipe thus covering the entire area of the floor.

On the preliminary plan of the room, marks are made where the control equipment (collector, manifold cabinet) will be installed.

Important! Pipes should be laid taking into account a certain step. For the central regions of the country, where average monthly temperature in winter -15, -20 0 C, the optimal step for laying is 150-300 mm.

It is better to use a stainless corrugated pipe with a diameter of 16 mm.

The final stage. Connection to autonomous heating system

After you have laid the water circuit, you can start connecting it. For manual control, the connection is simply made to the main pipeline using a conventional tap. If you want to make the system adjustable, warm water floors under the wooden floor are equipped with mixing units and a collector. In this case, you get a convenient, efficient and adjustable heating system.

For those who want to improvise should remember! Under no circumstances should underfloor heating be connected to a central heating main. Connecting additional heating devices, including underfloor heating to centralized system heating and hot water is not legal.

Based on this, it is impractical and risky to install a water floor in a city apartment. For a private house or for a summer residence, this option is quite acceptable and effective. After connection, the water circuits must be pressure tested. The procedure is mandatory and allows you to identify places of coolant leakage, identify zones of low heating. Only after that you can start working with flooring.

The finish. Floor covering flooring

The cover you choose can be anything. To date, the trading network has huge selection most various materials. You will have to choose not so much for manufacturability as for cost. If you prefer to use laminate, then you will need some time for this. The costs will not be so high in this case.

On a note: any material has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity, so your level of comfort and heating efficiency depend on it.

Wood has a low thermal conductivity compared to ceramic tiles. Before starting the installation of a water-heated floor along the logs, you should do thermal calculations, giving an idea of the amount of heat that will be on the surface. Doing everything correctly and in accordance with technology, you can do it yourself effective system heating in living quarters.

For a water heated floor of a classical design, a heavy cement-sand screed with a thickness of 8 cm or more is used. This thickness is necessary primarily to maintain the integrity of the screed itself when heated, to prevent its cracking, and also in order to better dissipate heat energy from pipes. But a very heavy screed on wooden logs in most cases, without building new foundations, is not applicable.

What can replace the thick cement-sand screed to make a warm floor on wooden logs, in which the bearing capacity is limited ...

Features of lightweight underfloor heating

Distinctive features of a dry system of underfloor heating with wooden logs are as follows.

The cement-sand screed can be replaced with a dry prefabricated screed of lesser thickness from boards containing gypsum and/or cement and binding fibers that do not crack when heated. Gypsum fiber boards (GVL), cement particle boards (DSP) are mainly used.
The heating pipe must be laid on metal sheets, which will be conductors and heat dissipators. Otherwise, a decrease in the output power and the appearance of a temperature zebra may occur. But instead of laying metal, it is also possible to increase the density of laying the pipeline by 2 to 4 times.

Lightweight water-heated floor is characterized by simplicity of design and high speed construction.
The pipeline can also be placed between the existing lags, which allows you to create a floor in low rooms.
The heat capacity of the prefabricated dry screed is relatively small, so the heating system, like radiators, can be quickly adjusted to the desired operating mode. This means that the lightweight system can be the only heating system in the house, as long as its heating capacity is enough.
The thermal power of underfloor heating with prefabricated screed usually cannot exceed 0.7 kW from 10 square meters. area, at a comfortable floor temperature of 28 degrees (coolant 30 - 35 degrees). Therefore, for a well-insulated house in the central regions, such power will be sufficient for most of the heating season. More information

It makes sense to create a prefabricated warm floor not only when building a house, but also when carrying out capital repair work. Such a warm floor can be made in stages - first, the operating system in one room, then it is created in the next ....

How to insulate a heated floor with lags

When choosing an insulation scheme, first of all, the height of the room is taken into account (it is advisable not to do less than 2.45 m) and the design of the floors.

The most common situation is the following situation - there is a low ventilated subfloor, above it there are logs with a height of at least 15 cm. At the same time, the height of the room is large and can be reduced by 10 cm.

Then it is optimal to place a layer of mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 15 cm between the lag (for floors, the heat transfer resistance is not lower than 4.2 m2 x ° C / W, for the central region, according to the Requirements of SNiP 23.02-2003).

The insulation from the living space of the house is fenced off with a vapor barrier, and ventilated through the underground. Usually, the membrane is fastened to the sidewalls of the log, leaving an air gap of 2 cm between it and the boards.

But options are also possible for combined insulation - mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam.

At the same time, mineral wool with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is placed between the log, and above the subfloor - extruded polystyrene foam with a layer of 3.5 - 5 cm. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the layers.

This option also helps out with insufficient lag height, when it is not possible to place a layer of insulation of the required thickness between them.

Piping options

Placement of the pipeline between the lags or bars.
For better distribution of thermal energy, profiled sheet metal is used in the design of the warm floor.

It can be either a special heat dissipator for pipes, or (for placement between the lag) and an ordinary profiled sheet. The pipeline is laid in the waves of the profiled sheet and is below the level of the crate.

On top of the counter-lattice or log, gypsum-fiber or cement-bonded sheets are laid in 2 layers. They have sufficient thermal conductivity, while not cracking. The layers are fastened together with an adhesive solution and a number of screws with a step of 25 cm.

The layout of the underfloor heating pipeline for the second floor with filing the ceiling of the first floor is presented. In this case, the thickness of the insulation can be small, 50 - 100 mm (do not heat the ceiling of the lower floor), while indoors it is desirable to use environmentally friendly autoclaved aerated concrete with a density of 100 - 150 kg / m3, and not mineral wool or expanded polystyrenes dangerous in case of fire. From the steam coming from the lower room, the insulation is fenced off by a vapor barrier membrane.

Pipeline in embossed insulation

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam are produced with a relief surface on which metal sheets and a pipeline can be placed with a selected pattern.

This insulation is laid on the boards of the subfloor, while the thickness of the main insulation layer can be reduced, for example, to 10 cm, and extruded polystyrene foam is used with a thickness of 3.5 - 5 cm.

Then the voids are filled with cement (gypsum) mortar, Smooth surface, and on top, as in the previous example, double gypsum fiber sheets are laid.

Ordinary sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can also be used, then with a heating tool, cut grooves in them for a metal heat sink and pipeline. But the option requires high costs manual labor and overspending of insulation.

For uniform heating of the entire surface, the heat distribution plates must be under 80% of the area of the warm floor.

Placement of the pipeline inside the dry screed.

Grooves for placing heat reflectors and pipelines can be created not only with insulation, but also with a screed.

Fits on the joists draft base in the form of a single sheet of GVL (DSP). Pieces of drywall of the desired configuration are laid on it, and between them are metal sheets and a pipeline fastened to them.

Gaps, voids are filled with cement-sand mortar with plasticizer, the surface is leveled. Two layers of GVL or DSP sheet material are laid above.

Recommendations for assembling a heated floor on a wooden base

On sale you can find designers for assembling lightweight underfloor heating without wet processes. They include a metal sheet under the heating pipeline and profiled insulation.

All this is covered with a dry screed in two layers of sheets with a total thickness of up to 3 cm. Such an assembly is simpler, but the materials are more expensive.

Before covering the pipeline with mortar or screed, it is necessary to carry out hydraulic tests pipeline - with a maximum pressure for several hours.
Laying mortar can only be carried out on a pipeline under operating pressure (2 atm).
After covering with a screed, thermal tests are carried out - for the maximum temperature of the coolant for 3 hours.
Floor covering is used only specially designed for use on warm floors, - thin parquet board with impregnation, special types of laminate and linoleum.

The supply equipment consists of a pumping and mixing unit and a distribution manifold. In the unit, the coolant is mixed in such a way that the outlet temperature is set by the regulator, but not more than 35 degrees.

The collector distributes the coolant along the circuits.
As a rule, the installation of these hydraulic systems is entrusted to specialists.

One of the options for creating lightweight underfloor heating in an already built house is phased installation in separate rooms. First, the floors are made in the room closest to the coolant entry point in one circuit, usually a bathroom, a bathroom, a kitchen. A mixing unit is installed, but without a manifold.

When creating underfloor heating with your own hands, it is important to get the initial experience. After that, it will not be so difficult to make underfloor heating circuits in other rooms and install a distribution manifold.

From the author: hello dear readers. I don’t know about you, but I’m a rare frostbite (even in summer I sleep under duvet). That is why for me the question of air temperature in the room is in the first place. The solution came naturally when my friend boasted that he had installed underfloor heating. You have no idea how I got the idea to make myself the same. However, my friend's apartment has a concrete base with which to install the system warm cover It was not difficult, but I have a wooden one. So I started to figure out how to install a warm water floor on a wooden floor, I did everything myself and the result has been pleasing me for several years.

Yes, I can say that I went through a lot of information and most of it turned out to be nonsense. Therefore, in order to avoid unskilled installation, I strongly recommend that you read this article to the end and find out all the nuances of installing heating coatings with your own hands.

Features of a water-heated floor on a wooden base

The whole "charm" lies in the fact that we are dealing with a tree. The thermal conductivity of this material is extremely low. Wood, in fact, is a heater, and the property of any heater is to be a thermal barrier. It is not for nothing that there are such types of insulation as sawdust, wood fibers impregnated with cement, etc.

So we get a stumbling block, a tree - a heat insulator that we must turn into a transmitter. Things get even more complicated when we talk specifically about a water-heated coating on a wooden floor. The catch is that the pipe is a narrowly concentrated source of heat. For example, the infrared plates of an electric floor distribute their energy over the entire surface area, and a pipe, with a diameter of half an inch, must distribute heat over a radius of at least 15 cm.

Source: http://vodotopim.ru

In order to overcome all these obstacles and on a wooden base, specialists came up with various ways and tricks, which we will now learn.

Mounting types

In order to clearly understand what is being done for, it is necessary to remember the following points. Heating can be convective, beam and combined. With the convective method of heating, we are dealing with the so-called thermal convection, the cold air, being heated, rushes up. This is how radiators and batteries work. The air around the radiator constantly circulates, the heated one rushes up, and the new cold one is again drawn in from below. Hot air rises, cools along the way, and falls down again.

Radiation, on the contrary, does not heat the air, but works on the principle of infrared radiation. Radiation does not heat the air! It only heats up the surface. And the air in this case is a heat insulator! When installing on wooden joists, we deal only with infrared radiation, nothing connects us with thermal convection! Therefore, we should reduce the volume of air around the pipe as much as possible.

And now, let's take a look at the types of installation of floors on wooden floors.

Source: http://harthaus.ru

factory panels- are thick sheets of chipboard or other similar material, with sawn grooves for laying pipes. The kit comes with aluminum panels that fit into the chipboard grooves after its installation. Further, pipes are laid in these aluminum gutters and everything is sewn up with plywood, on which the final coating will be laid. Installation of factory panels is also carried out on the laid plywood.

Installation order:

We lay a layer of waterproofing.
We make a layer of insulation.
We lay the vapor barrier.
We lay the second layer of the subfloor (plywood, chipboard, OSB) so that no more than two corners converge at one point and fasten it with screws to the logs.
We lay out a layer of waterproofing.
We lay the factory panels in the right order and fasten them to the plywood.
We lay sheets of aluminum on the panel.
We lay out pipes according to the necessary technology: spiral, snake, various systems feed forward and return.
We lay the last layer of the rough coating. (plywood, OSB).
We cover everything with a finishing coating;

self sawing suggests the presence of a mobile jointer, although such are found in nature, extremely rarely. Laying is carried out according to the following method:

We cut grooves on the laid floor and line everything with foil. It is necessary to use only building foil and in no case try to replace it with food. The thickness of the food is only 50 microns, and the construction has about 200.
In the grooves, again, we lay out the pipes and sew them up with a rough coating.
We lay the bars. Gutters for placing pipes in them can also be made using ordinary bars, which are laid in the form of a labyrinth.
We line this design with foil. And remember, bend the grooves in the foil only where the pipe will be, and not wherever possible;

raised floor- this method is as follows: a draft floor of plywood or chipboard is laid on top of the log. Bars are laid on it at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other and waterproofing. A heater, for example, extruded polystyrene, is laid between the bars in one layer. Bars and thermal insulation should be of the same thickness. It should be calculated so that the bar and insulation are 1-2 mm higher than the pipe. That is, the diameter of the pipe must be less than the thickness of the bar and insulation, and they must be the same. After everything has been laid, we mark the places where the pipe will be laid and cut channels in the insulation and bars for its installation. This is done very simply, with an ordinary construction knife. After making the channels, we cover everything with building foil and “press in”. If the foil is torn in some places, you should not shift the whole sheet just over the gap, lay a small piece, with 20 cm on both edges. Otherwise, everything is done by analogy with laying factory panels;

insulation installation. On all sites they shout in one throat that this method is the worst and ineffective. According to them, with such a design, efficiency is greatly lost. Of course, in some ways I agree with them, if we do it according to the technology that is described on all resources, then we will largely extinguish the efficiency. And they offer the following: on mats mineral wool lay out the foil, between the lag (and this is about 60 cm by standards) throw two pipes and sew everything up with plywood. Of course, with such a system, it is easier to warm yourself from a fire. But I recommend that you do all the work according to the scheme below or according to the video instructions:

We attach cranial bars to the installed logs.
We lay out the first draft coating - sheets of plywood, chipboard, boards. We do not attach to cranial bars.
We lay a layer of waterproofing.
We lay a layer of insulation. Now remember: if you are using the 20th pipe, lay a mineral or basalt wool so that exactly 20 mm remains to the upper points of the lag.
We do not install vapor barrier here. If the distance between our lags is 60 cm, then we cut out 3 strips of extruded polystyrene exactly 130 mm each, and lay them so that 40 mm remain from them to the lag, and 60 mm each between the central and extreme ones.
Now very important point- we roll out a sheet of foil so that it goes to the extreme logs, more precisely, it protrudes 10 cm beyond the logs. We do not press the foil anywhere, into any grooves and slots.
We lay the pipes very carefully, they themselves should dent the foil enough to touch the mineral wool. The foil between the lags and the first strip should remain taut, and exactly those 10 cm that we let in compensate for its tension.
Carefully lay the rough layer of plywood.

If you do everything carefully and slowly, you can save not only a bunch of building material, but also time! As a result, you will get an excellent underfloor heating that will not yield to other coatings by a Joule. And the expanded 20 and 40 mm channels will provide air circulation, which is necessary for mineral wool.

Thermal tricks and subtleties of installation

I repeat once again, when laying on a wooden floor, only infrared radiation is important to us! And now I want to give a few useful tips, which will help make your home cozier and warmer at times:

the purpose of the foil is to act as a shield for infrared radiation, and it is used only to dissipate the heat that comes from the pipe;
"Woe" experts without exception on all sites advise wrapping the pipe with foil, in no case do this! Thus, you shield the pipe, and it will give off even less heat. When writing this article, a whole dispute arose between various specialists. Some said that the foil would help in "taking away" the heat, others said that, on the contrary, it would block it. Everything came to an experiment with a calibration calibrated laser thermometer, not to be confused with a pyrometer. So, the method without foil won;
there is also another trick that you will not hear anywhere else. It will help to add a few percent to the efficiency and increase heat transfer. Since infrared operates strictly in the red range at a wavelength of 710-730 nanometers, any object that tries to emit such a spectrum will be helped by coloring red. As soon as you paint the pipes with heat-resistant red paint, their heat transfer will increase by 3-4 ° C! But here it is worth considering whether they will be beneficial to you. Moreover, most of the pipes designed specifically for underfloor heating are already red;
when installing a water floor wooden beams try to maintain a pipe laying step of no more than 25 cm. If the design does not allow, a step of 30 cm will do, but in this case do not use the 16th pipe, only the 20th.

That's all, dear readers, what can be said on this topic. I would like to give parting advice: never trust unqualified specialists or self-taught people who bought essential tool and think they can do the job. Order services only from professionals working in a company or under a patent, and best of all, study the topic yourself and do everything yourself!

There is an opinion among homeowners that arranging a warm floor on a wooden floor is simply impossible. Moreover, they believe that the need for it is completely absent. These people support their point of view by the fact that the tree, as natural material, in itself is a heat and energy-saving material. Underfloor heating, as they believe, cannot be mounted due to deformation wooden elements, which should occur with constant changes in humidity and temperature. However, experts have already managed to find ways to solve emerging problems, which makes it possible to use the system of modern floor heating even if there is a wooden floor.

Underfloor heating without screed

Now in houses with wooden floors, a warm water floor is no longer a rarity. It is clear that reliability concrete base no one is going to challenge it, but far from everywhere there is an opportunity to equip it. For such cases, an alternative underfloor heating system is excellent, the installation of which is much easier than laying a screed.

In addition to the relative simplicity of providing heating, this approach has a large set of significant advantages, the main of which are as follows:

does not reduce the interior space of the rooms, which could be damaged in the case of laying that occupies a small, but sensitive for rooms with low ceilings volume;
there is no need to perform rather dirty work, the production of which requires the laying of a concrete base.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water floor is carried out directly on a wooden base or on a polystyrene coating. For laying pipes in the wood of the floorboards, special recesses are made. To provide more high efficiency warming up the room, the laid pipes are supplemented, as a rule, with special metal plates. The system laid in this way is covered waterproofing material. The resulting thermal cake is covered with a topcoat suitable for specific conditions.

Since the thickness of such a system is small, it does not occupy the volume and height of the heated room at all.

Features of installing a warm floor on a wood base

The mechanics of room heating, which is embedded in a warm water floor, is quite understandable: the heating system communicates its heat first to the material covering it, and then to the finish coat. The room itself is heated already warm exterior finish gender.

This principle of heating does not give any failures, provided that the floor is covered with a concrete screed. If the pipes of the heating system are laid in wood, then the heat transfer process is disturbed, since wood is a good natural heat insulator. Naturally, the very fact of the possibility of laying a warm floor on a wooden base is beyond doubt, but it should be borne in mind that heating a room will not be as effective as with concrete. On the other hand, the tree will reliably protect the cellar from overheating, which is especially important in cases where they are used to store homemade products and vegetables.

regret the absence concrete screed not worth it for the reason that it could cause a lot of pressure on the plank floor, which could simply not withstand the mass of the concrete monolith.

An additional difficulty affecting the installation of such a heating system is the need to lay the substrate, the presence of which is an immutable law. However, even if all of the above points are present, installing a water-heated floor on plank base is a completely feasible task. To do this, it is enough just to have sufficient patience and knowledge of the specifics available in the performance of these works.

Advantages of a screedless warm floor

The installed underfloor heating system is light in weight. It is able to effectively heat the people in the room, pre-heating the structures and elements adjacent to it. For the arrangement of such a system does not require much effort and time. In the case of its laying, there is no need to wait about a month, as it happens when installing a concrete screed to ensure its complete solidification.

The heating system laid in this way is ready for use immediately after the installation of the top coat. To cover the heating system laid on the floor, carpet or linoleum is used. If it fits in, then the finish may be ceramic tiles.

Nuances to consider when laying underfloor heating on a wooden floor

The most common and most affordable technology for laying a warm floor is its installation by the flooring method, when the pipes intended for the circulation of the coolant are laid on logs or draft boards, having previously prepared special channels there.

More efficient heating of the room is provided by laying special metal plates on the floor, the recesses of which coincide with the grooves prepared in wooden base. Such plates, which increase the efficiency of heating, at the same time eliminate the need for laying any substrate.

By performing the installation of a warm floor on your own, you can not spend money on rather expensive metal plates, but replace them with foil having a thickness of about 200 microns. However, in case of execution finishing using linoleum or tile, the presence of a substrate is prerequisite. The substrate can be gypsum-fiber or cement-bonded particle boards.

The procedure for laying pipes forming a floor heating system

Pipe laying can be done in two ways, differing from each other in the design of the channels intended for laying pipes. The elements underlying these methods are modules and rails.

If you use the first option, you need to purchase ready-made modules made from chipboard. Such modules already have special recesses prepared in advance, the distance between which is determined by the desired amount of space heating.

Similar modular systems as part of their kit, as a rule, they have everything you need:

modules with grooves prepared in them;
pipes;
fasteners;
metal plates.

The assembly of the structure is carried out according to the scheme accompanying the purchased kit.

However, the modular way is rather expensive. For this reason, many people like the more budgetary method, which consists in stuffing slats that replace chipboard sheets and are cut from boards or plywood. The diameter of the grooves in the rails must significantly exceed the size of the pipes laid in them and be significantly more than 17 mm. Thanks to this condition, it is possible to prevent damage to the pipes caused by the movement wooden base. The width of the strips is determined by the distance between the pipes laid in them.

Using a mixed floor heating installation method

Some craftsmen use a method that combines the advantages of rack and pinion and modular options. Using this method makes it easy to install underfloor heating without spending significant amounts of money.

Work begins with the fact that a recess is selected in the edged board for laying pipes. Then a distance of 7 cm or more is measured from the wall, at which a recess is made with a cutter to bring the pipe into the next row. The thickness of the boards used should be more sizes the sample they make. Their width should be equal to the pitch used when laying pipes. Planks are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws. Laying a rough base when using this method is not required.

Light rail heating system

If the system is to be laid on an old floor surface, the latter must be thoroughly inspected and, if necessary, repaired. Each of the floorboards should be lifted and checked in what condition the logs are. Worn or damaged structural elements should be replaced or restored. Sometimes nailed to the floor beams wooden bars, insulation is often laid.

For this purpose, you can use polyethylene, the laying of which is overlapped. When laying to walls around the perimeter of the entire floor covering, it is necessary to attach damper tape, the width of which should be about 5 cm. The most convenient method of laying pipes for underfloor heating, which has a water circuit, is a "snake".

Before starting work, a plan of the room is drawn, which accurately indicates the location of the pipe connection, as well as the installation location of the control equipment. On the plan, you should put the location of the guides and indicate the necessary gaps, the value of which, as a rule, ranges from 0.15 m to 0.3 m. When laying, the most convenient is to use corrugated pipesØ 16 mm. Reiki are made, proceeding from the sizes necessary in each specific conditions.

The underfloor heating is laid along the lags. When installing guides between them, channels are left for installing the pipeline.

It is convenient to strengthen the guides to the rough base using self-tapping screws. In places where pipes are bent, the corners of the strips must be rounded off. Foil with a thickness of 50 microns or more is placed in the prepared grooves. To fix it, you can use a stapler. Then, pipes of the heating system are laid in the channels formed in this way. When attaching the formed blocks, you can use pre-prepared metal plates.

After the installation of the system is completed, it is necessary to connect it to the heating pipes and pressure test all existing joints. After making sure that the warm water floor system is functioning normally, you can proceed to laying the selected finish. In the case of laying the substrate, it is better to use CSP boards containing no formaldehyde.

Thus, you are convinced that a warm water floor can be installed on your own over the surface of the wood floor. The implementation of these works is facilitated by the possibility of using rails or ready-made modules in the process of laying.

The techniques described in the article are presented visually in the following video: