How to make epoxy rings. Epoxy resin jewelry. Required for work
To date, quite popular and fashionable rings from epoxy resin, they have a variety of shapes, as well as various additives and fillers, as well as the resin can be given any color. You can put shavings, sparkles, or pour some kind of insect into the workpiece, everything turns out very beautiful and interesting, and most importantly, unique, which in our difficult time comes first.
Despite the apparent complexity, the whole technology is quite simple and understandable, you just need to delve a little into the process and you yourself can make a dozen rings of different sizes)))
The base is epoxy resin and hardener in a ratio of 10/1, glitter and wood shavings are added. First, pour into the container required amount resin, then glitter is added to it and everything is thoroughly mixed, then chips and stir again. Epoxy resin is painted with color, you should add a little bit at the tip of a toothpick, stirring to catch the desired color. The hardener is added last in a ratio of 1/10 of the total proportion of resin, that is, for example, 10 grams of resin and 1 gram of hardener, everything is mixed very thoroughly.
And so, let's look at what exactly is needed to make an epoxy ring?
materials
1. epoxy resin
2. hardener
3. sequins
4. wood chips
5. color
Instruments
1. container for preparing the solution (plastic cups)
2. silicone mold
3. emery
4. pliers
5. drill
6. round file
7. 600/1200/2500 grit waterproof sandpaper
8. mini grinder
9. caliper
Step-by-step instructions for making an epoxy resin ring with your own hands.
The first step is to prepare all the components so that everything is at hand during the work, it is also necessary to wear gloves made of latex or mica, because the resin is very sticky, and the hardener is aggressive when it comes into contact with open areas skin can get burned, so safety comes first. A respirator is also a mandatory safety measure against resin and hardener vapors, in small quantities, of course, it’s not so scary, but still ..
To fill the blanks, it is best to use a silicone mold, because it is very easy to remove the filled figures later and nothing sticks, the mold can also be made of paper and pasted over with tape inside, also a good option to start working)
It is advisable to spread mica or a simple package on the table so that drops of resin, color and hardener do not stain the surface of the table.
After that, the author pours epoxy resin into the container, adds glitter and brings it to a homogeneous mass, then wood chips, color adds a little bit at the tip of the toothpick, so as not to go over with the contrast. In this case, the author used 3 dyes: black, blue and green.
Everything is very thoroughly mixed.
Next is important! It is necessary to expel air bubbles from the solution, and the author does this with the help of a home-made vacuum installation. That is, a glass of resin is placed in a jar and air is pumped out from there for 10 minutes. Additionally, the resin can be heated in a water bath to 50-60 ° C
in this way it will become even more elastic and air bubbles will come out much faster.
Epoxy resin with added hardener hardens after 24 hours, the hardened blanks come out of the silicone mold quite easily.
These are the blanks for making rings. The work is very dusty, so we change into work clothes, protective equipment: a respirator, goggles, gloves.
Then we begin to grind the ring from the inside, sandpaper was used with a grain of 2500/1600/600. Necessarily from the inside, because the degree of polishing of the product will be determined by the inside.
The outer part of the ring is polished waterproof sandpaper.
Starting with coarse grain and gradually decreasing to 600.
Polishes the ring with a bur-machine with polishing paste. The author bought it at a car dealership.
In general, the end result is such a beauty.
The author made all these rings to order, and sent them by mail to customers in all regions of our vast Country. How do you know the products handmade are always in demand, and especially in our time, the payment for author's rings is worthy. So what can be taken as a basis for a small business at home, the set of tools is minimal, the materials are freely available and for sale, so we take it and do it. Hold on friends!
This concludes the article. Thank you all for your attention!
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For work you need:
- epoxy resin;
- silicone molds (for epoxy resin);
- disposable gloves, syringes, cups, stirring stick;
- various natural materials(dried flowers, shells, pebbles, etc.);
- potal, stained glass paints, perlex powder.
I work on a regular file so as not to stain the table.
To create a pendant from a hemisphere, I picked up two different dandelions so that you can compare how they will look in the final version.
Before starting work, thoroughly rinse all the molds that we plan to use, wipe them dry. Putting on gloves, pour resin and hardener into disposable cups (it’s more convenient to type them with a syringe). We work in a well-ventilated area.
Having measured the required amount of resin, pour it into a clean, dry glass, measure the required amount of hardener with another syringe and add it to the resin. Different manufacturers have their own proportions, so carefully read what is written on the package and follow all the recommendations for work. The final result depends on the accuracy, if the resin has not hardened, then the proportions have been violated, or the mixture is not well mixed together.
If you take a syringe from rubber insert inside, the hardener will not splatter when you pour it into the epoxy. wooden stick(you can use skewers for kebabs) mix thoroughly the resulting mixture. I mark the time for 10 minutes, and in a circular motion I interfere so as to prevent air from entering.
We carefully place a dandelion in the mold (I removed the lower parachutes with tweezers)
After mixing, I leave the resin for about half an hour so that the chemical reaction passes: you can judge that the reaction is going on by the heated glass with resin. Experienced I found that it is not worth working in very hot weather, the reaction will begin to proceed very rapidly and the resin will solidify completely within half an hour. This applies to the resin that I use, different manufacturers have different criteria.
In a thin stream, carefully pour the resin into the mold, onto the dandelion.
Because after hardening, it will settle a little, pour it so that a small convex lens is obtained.
Now I will show you how you can make beautiful rings from glass, washed and polished by the sea.
Pour a little resin, lay the pebbles, carefully add from above, as when working with a hemisphere, to get a convex surface.
Cases of earrings with parachutes of dandelions. Pour a little resin, distribute with a stick. At this stage, the resin begins to gradually thicken, this is exactly what is needed for the parachutes to remain in the position in which they were laid.
We put the bouquet.
Top with resin with a slight bulge. If you do this carefully, then in the end you will need minimal grinding.
Similarly, a truncated ball is obtained. Pour the resin half mold.
We lay the required number of parachutes with a toothpick or, like me, with a large needle (it is good to wipe it off the resin).
Add resin to mold with dandelion.
And now we will make a bracelet with shells from the Black and Azov seas. In the same way, pour epoxy resin into a clean, dry bracelet mold. By this time, it has become even thicker, so part of it remains on the walls, which is what I need. We add shells, pebbles, starfish, everything that is interesting to the mold) Pour the crushed shells that stick to the walls, creating the effect of a suspended state.
Half an hour before, I prepared a new batch of resin, very carefully pour on top to avoid unnecessary bubbles. If there are still bubbles, you can heat the oven to 80 degrees, ventilate, place the mold with resin there (the molds can withstand temperatures up to + 204 C). The bubbles will come out.
It is important that the mold stand on a flat surface, otherwise the resin will harden in an inclined position. The more carefully you pour the epoxy, the less sanding you will need to do afterwards. I poured the resin as much as possible to the very top, with a slight bulge.
Now we wait a day for the resin to dry completely. To prevent debris / dust from getting on the surface of the products, it is necessary to cover them with something, a box, a lid.
At this time, we will make a pendant. We prepare the main background - apply liquid plastic for workpiece. polymer clay, rolled into a thin layer, cover, distribute and bake in the oven. Let it cool down and you can get to work.
Pour a few drops of resin so that it can be distributed on the surface and with the help of tweezers and a needle we make up a composition from completely dried leaves - flowers. The resin acts as a glue that keeps the light dried flowers from moving. Do not use live or poorly dried flowers for resin fillings, over time they will deteriorate and turn black.
Because there is a holder on the back of the pendant, I had to put it in a mold so that the surface was horizontal. I never think in advance what the composition should be, so I lay out all the suitable flowers and herbs and with inspiration I begin to collect a small living picture.
The result is such a small world. We leave to dry, after the resin hardens, you can fill it with a second layer, forming a convex beautiful lens.
A day passed, the resin completely hardened and I took out all the resulting blanks. This is a bracelet, its upper part.
By the same principle, you can make a pendant, earrings, ring, etc.
This is a hemisphere with a dandelion, next to the second, orange, for comparison.
These are the resulting truncated balls with parachutes:
I also filled in small hemispheres:
Sea glass rings, for comparison, put those that I did earlier.
If you add a drop of stained glass paint or Perlex powder to the resin, you can get different shades of resin. When staining stained glass paint it should be added quite a bit, because. the proportions between resin and hardener can be disturbed by coloring, resulting in the product not curing or becoming sticky when touched.
You can add potal and get interesting decorations.
And these are lenses with parachutes, as you can see, they lie beautifully. Just as it was intended.
The reverse side remained flush with the edges of the lenses.
After complete hardening, it is necessary to grind uneven and sharp edges.
Both epoxy and jewelry wire, in the sense of jewelry, are special. Regular wire is uncoated and will darken over time. This can of course be used as an advantage, but it is not a fact that oxides will not spoil the product in the process. More or less suitable aluminum wire can be found in flower shops. But again, most likely without coverage.
We take the wire soft enough, but not too thin. I have aluminum 1.5 mm coated. We turn the ring. It is advisable to use some obviously even shape.
Cut the long end of the wire with side cutters. Keep in mind that in this case one tip (here it will be on the right) will be sharp, and the second will be perpendicular to the wire, which is what we need.
In the same way, we cut the tail very, very close (or better, even with a meager margin) to the first cut.
We connect the ends of the ring. The closer they are to each other, the better.
And now we stick our ring on a wide adhesive tape, which is desirable to first fix on a flat surface (I have ceramic tiles or glass) with the sticky side up.
Since it is better to dilute the epoxy with at least 10 ml, then several blanks should be made at once, unless of course you want to throw away the excess diluted epoxy. It is very important to check the tightness of the ring to the surface.
Next, I fill the frames with artistic debris - inlays. In fact, it is advised to first pour the bottom layer, and then pour in the garbage, but since the time from kneading to solidifying the epoxy is limited, I do it in a different order.
So, the blanks are laid out, the tightness is checked, you can breed.
I use Ice Resin (odorless, liquid and almost no bubbles - the last point is important). I measure the same amount of resin and hardener...
It is very important to measure the exact amount of liquids. Epoxy is an insidious thing: a little more hardener and it will start to "goat" (that is, reach for the tool with such horns) too quickly; a little less - and you will wait until the lenses harden forever. :)
Once again: special epoxy, jewelry Ice Resin or Crystal Resin. It differs from the industrial one by the absence of smell, greater transparency and less bubbling. I ordered it here: http://vkontakte.ru/club13872192 - here it is:
Once upon a time I tried to make fillings with epoxy glue - the quality is much worse, it is more difficult to work with it and in general it is not intended for jewelry purposes.
I knead. At first, the resin becomes cloudy, opalescent stains appear in it - this is normal. We continue to stir for another minute and a half ... Until the mixture becomes transparent. Large bubbles will come out on their own, small ones gradually too. However, in the product they will need to be helped to "hatch". From the beginning of the kneading to the beginning of the "rising" of the epoxy, we have somewhere around 30-40 minutes.
Filling lenses. I use a rubber glass for oil (it will be further in the frame), I also expel bubbles with it.
Primary filling, as seen in the photo, does not completely cover the "garbage". This is fine. At this stage, we only need to create a "bottom" and fix the drawing. You can even pour even less - I overdid it in the frames in the lower right corner. :) For everything about everything, we have half an hour: pour, expel bubbles with a needle or a stack, make sure that the lenses are filled more or less evenly.
Now we exhale for 8-10 hours and hide our plates with fills on the far, dust-free shelf and cover with a lid, leaving a small gap for air between it and the shelf.
Stage two. After 8-10 hours the lenses are ready for refilling. Knead the epoxy again and carefully apply the second layer. It should cover all protruding parts.
Epoxy does not contain solvents, so it does not shrink when cured. In addition, it is viscous, so if you pour it "with a slide", then it will leak to the edge and stop there. But here it is important not to overdo it.
After another 8-10 hours, we open our lenses from adhesive tape. On the
At this stage, they look terrible. Now we take the solvent and wash off the remnants of adhesive tape. Alcohol, gasoline, white-spirit, acetone or nail polish remover will do.
Pour the third layer from the inside and dry for another 8-10 hours. Voila. :) You can drill, insert into a frame, braid with wire and everything else that your heart desires.
More epoxy work
My favorite heather. :)
Heather bracelet
The poppies are plastic, but the lemon balm petals and blades of grass are natural (and the herbarium came in handy).
Bracelet "Fresh water". River pearls, mother-of-pearl and other rubbish. :)
Jasper chips, aventurine glass, fluorite sand and mother-of-pearl chips in jewelry epoxy and gilded wire. Pendant "tie"
Lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, dried heather, fluorite sand in epoxy and gilded wire. Bracelet.
Bracelet and medallion.
Hello everyone! Everyone who loves to work with resin and who loves the "kitchen" of creating something with their own hands!
So, I started by choosing from my stock, those flowers that I want to fill, and outlined the desired contours of the fortification on paper (the plants must be completely dried). You can skip this stage and fill it without a stencil, but I wanted the plants to fit =))
I chose heather flowers, forget-me-nots and oak veronica.
Now you need to prepare the resin: knead (according to the instructions!) And leave for about 2-3 hours (to gain viscosity). Immediately after kneading, there are a lot of bubbles in the resin, they will go away on their own after a while and you can use it. At this stage, it is good to pour it into molds. But I'm waiting for it to thicken.
While the resin is infused, I make the number of stencils I need and cut out:
Important point- it is necessary to prepare the surface on which the products will harden. It should be as even as possible; dust, if not removed before pouring, will be on future brooches-earrings. In my case, the surface is glass, and using building level you can put it as evenly as possible, putting something under it.
The next step is to put on flat surface file or multiple files and UNDER them to place stencils.
Pour the prepared slightly thickened resin directly onto the file and spread it with a toothpick so that the height is about 2-3 mm. Necessarily you need to cover it with a dome-lid! By experience, I found out that under a low dome, the probability of dust sticking is less than if you cover it with one common and high one. After 15 - 30 minutes, the resin may crawl away from the contour, then you also need to return it to its place with a toothpick or drop more resin and distribute it.
Now we forget about the resin for about a day. It is necessary that the newly made bases harden completely and then you can separate them from the file (you can separate them earlier, but the uncured resin will bend and leave fingerprints) The edges, of course, will not be perfectly even, so you need to process them with sandpaper or a file. If there are paired elements such as earrings, then you need to make them as symmetrical as possible.
The files themselves are convenient to use for any work with resin! Thus, protect your table from resin adhering to it.
We knead a new portion of the resin, leave it to infuse and in the meantime try on the location of the dried flowers, and if everything suits you, you can continue!
After the bubbles have come out of the resin (30-60 minutes have passed), we drip a couple of drops onto the base, distribute them and arrange the flowers. This is necessary in order to fix them in the right place. Cover with a lid and leave to dry.
Well, another day has passed)) (or half a day). Again we are preparing a new resin, leaving it to thicken, but not much! Otherwise, when pouring too thick resin, the resulting bubbles on the plants will be difficult to remove and you can break a twig or leaf, expelling the bubbles with a toothpick! It is better to use its medium consistency, which is similar to fresh honey). This filling is needed first of all in order for the resin to flow into all the irregularities of the plant. Remind me of a flat work surface, because if at this stage it is not even, then the resin will simply drain and spoil the mood and work. The higher the lens needs to be formed, the smoother the surface needs to be!
Further according to the well-known scheme: cover with a lid, leave to dry). After a day, you need to dilute the new resin and wait for its thick consistency (thick honey) and pour it again to form a volumetric coating. Remove again to COMPLETE drying under an anti-dust cover on a flat surface (complete drying is different for different resin manufacturers, but it is better to play it safe and not touch the products for several days; if the plans did not include leaving fingerprints, of course)
After complete drying, turn over the finished front side and make another pour with thick resin, because. there are no plants on it, you can make just one fill so as not to leave a flat back surface and remove the texture of the file! Thus, the plant is inside the form. At the same time, the form becomes very strong and it will not be possible to break it, just saw it))) All this work seems simple, but to do everything carefully, you need to have a certain amount of patience and skills!
Decorations made using resin require careful handling and do not like the open sun (plants can burn out for a long time, for example, on the windowsill)
When all the fillings are completed and dry, you can make the intended decoration (for example, make a hole with the thinnest drill) or use it as you please. I love simple shapes and a minimum of decor, so I got such decorations and photos in the new winter:
Heather pendant 20 x 80 mm
Forget-me-not earrings with silver hooks 28 x 70 mm
Pendant with a sprig of Veronica oak grove 30 x 62 mm
Earrings on silver earwires with a sprig of Veronica oak 23 x 64 mm
Thanks for attention! I wish you all inspiration and realization of your ideas!
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