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Simple hives for bees with their own hands. Hives for bees: device and self-production. Checking different options and creating optimal do-it-yourself hive drawings

The Dadan hive has stood the test of time - the design was invented at the end of the 19th century. Thoughtful design, simplicity and reliability have made it popular among experienced beekeepers and beginners.

The American Frenchman Dadant in the 60s of the 19th century calculated mathematically the dimensions of the hive. Unfortunately, the work could not be completed. A few years later, another beekeeper, the Swiss Blatt, brought Dadan's work to mind and patented the work as the Dadan-Blatt hive.

In our time, the Dadanovsky hive is represented by several types of structures. The main differences are volume, material and thermal insulation.

Design dimensions are a strategic issue. It is important to understand what is needed in specific conditions.

  • 10 frame. Classic scheme Dadan.
  • 12 frame. The square section allows you to arrange the frames in different ways (with warm or cold skid).
  • 14 and 16 frame. It's harder to work alone. The increased number of frames creates a greater load on the structure.

Material

High-quality material will last longer, will not warp or rot. Do not use materials with a strong odor.

  • Boards. Suitable wood without knots and rot. Insufficiently dried wood will dry out over time, cracks will appear.
  • and dvp. Cheaper, easier to handle, but less durable.
  • . Lightweight, warm, durable, do not miss sounds.
  • . Light, warm, do not miss sounds and are less reliable.

Insulation

Depending on the temperature conditions choose one of the types:

  • Double wall. The walls are double, insulation (sawdust, moss, straw, polystyrene) is laid in the gap between the walls. Keeps you warm in unpredictable spring weather. Recommended in the middle and northern latitudes of Russia.
  • Single wall. Lightweight option not designed for low temperatures.

What does it consist of

Regardless of the dimensions and other features, the Dadan-Blatt hive consists of the following elements:

  • Frame. Must exactly match the drawing, not have distortions. All other parts of the structure are attached to it. Letok is arranged in the body of the hive.
  • Bottom. Usually made removable. The non-removable bottom is tighter and tougher, but complicates the work with bees.
  • Extension (shop). It is installed during the period of active honey collection. With the help of special techniques, the uterus is not allowed to lay eggs in the store. In principle, 2 extensions stacked on top of each other can serve as a second body.
  • Roof lining. Needed for ventilation and insulation of the hive.
  • Roof. Most affected by the weather. The roof is painted in 2-3 layers or sheathed with tin. Roofs are single-pitched, double-pitched and flat.
  • Minor structural details (taps, folds).

How to make a twelve-frame hive Dadan with your own hands

The dimensions and drawings of the twelve-frame hive Dadan are given for the single-wall type, since the second walls are built on top of the inner ones, and do not matter.

Preparation for work

With some skill, it is not difficult to make a Dadan hive on your own. There are several important points.

  • Storage and processing of wood in a dry place. Only dried wood is used.
  • Study the drawings in advance and present the order of work.
  • Prepare tools and materials.

A job well done will last a long time. The life of the manufactured hive depends on the material.

Operating procedure

  • Workpieces are cut from a 35 mm board according to the drawing. Joints are prepared, folds are selected. The blanks are polished.
  • When assembling, wide boards are opposed to narrow boards (if the front bottom board is wide, the bottom side boards are taken narrow).
  • The joints are glued. PVA or carpentry (casein) glue is used. It is important that the glue does not have a strong odor and is not toxic to bees.
  • The ends of the joints are additionally reinforced with pins or self-tapping screws. Let the glue dry before reassembling.
  • The upper notch is drilled, the lower one is cut along the edge of the body.

In the process of manufacturing the bottom, extension and roof, it makes sense to periodically try them on in order to notice errors immediately.

  • The removable bottom is made wider and assembled from boards in a quarter (or in another way with good tightness). Three strips are stuffed in such a way as to enter the fold at the bottom of the case. The front side remains without a strap, for ventilation. Boards can be taken thicker than 4 cm, this will make the bottom heavier, but make it stronger.
  • The superstructure (store) is assembled similarly to the hull. A fold is selected along the upper edge of the superstructure.
  • The roof is put on the body or store. Over time, they change shape a little, so you need to make the roof fit not too tight. Openings for ventilation are arranged on the sides or in the front part. In order for the bees to be transported, you need to close the holes with a fine mesh.

twelve frame hive size

Typical dimensions of the elements of the Dadan hive for 12 frames.

  • Rebate depth recommended 18 mm. This means that there is a space of 10 mm between the frame and the top cut.
  • The depth of other folds is chosen based on the thickness of the material.
  • The gap between the bottom and the frames is 25 mm, for cleaning and for the convenience of the bees.
  • The upper notch with a diameter of 25 mm is drilled 70 mm from the upper cut. An arrival board is installed under the entrance.
  • The lower notch is 10 mm high and is made almost the entire length of the wall, its length is regulated by special liners.

Drawing twelve-frame hive Dadan

View in the collection of the Dadan hive. Option with two stores and liner.

Hull drawing

To assemble the case, you will need two side and front walls. In the front wall, you will need to drill the upper notch.

Side wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames

The front wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames

Shop drawing

To assemble the store, you will also need two front and 2 side walls.

Side wall of the Dadan store for 12 frames

The front wall of the store Dadan 12 frames

Liner drawing

If necessary, a liner, it is also assembled in the same way as the body and magazine, but has its own dimensions.

Liner Dadan for 12 frames

Roof drawing

The drawing shows a horizontal roof. If you need a ramp, you can raise one front wall by 20mm, and do not forget about the side walls, which have a maximum outer dimension will increase to 100mm, and the minimum will remain 80mm. Also, the right side should be a mirror image of the left.

After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 540mm on top or tie a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. From the inside, insulate, and from the outside, cover with a sheet of iron, roofing felt, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Roof Dadan 12 frames

bottom drawing

When making the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), the back (2 without a notch) and the front (2) in which you need to make a 10mm notch in advance for the length of the tab you prepared. You also need to prepare the bottom (3) from a 25mm board, 470mm * 470mm in size. Having connected 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then we close it with the front wall. Under the notch, you can fill a plank.

Bottom Dadan for 12 frames

In the manufacture of the Dadan hive from a 40mm board. internal dimensions do not change. The outer dimension is increased by 10mm and the rebate depth is changed by 21mm.

How to make a ten-frame hive Dadan with your own hands

The manufacturing scheme of the 10th frame hive Dadan is the same as that of the 12th frame hive. You can use 35 mm boards (the load on the structure is now less). Takes up little space and is easier to work with.

Ten frame hive size

Compared to 12 frames, only the length of the side walls changes, and the corresponding dimensions of the roof and bottom.

Drawing of a ten-frame hive Dadan

A ten-frame hive differs from a twelve-frame one only in width.

Hull drawing

The side wall is similar to 12 frame. And the front and back walls are smaller. In the front wall, you need to drill the upper notch.

Side wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames

The front wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames

Shop drawing

As well as for the case, only the dimensions of the front and rear wall regarding the 12 frame structure.

Side wall of the Dadan store for 10 frames

Roof pad Dadan for 10 frames

Roof drawing

After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 470mm on top or tie a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. From the inside, insulate, and from the outside, cover with a sheet of iron, roofing felt, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Roof Dadan 10 frames

bottom drawing

In the manufacture of the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), the back (2 without a notch) and the front (2) in which you need to make a notch 10mm in advance for the length of the tab you prepared. You also need to prepare the bottom (3) in advance from a 25mm board, 470mm * 400mm in size. Having connected 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then we close it with the front wall. Under the notch, you can fill a plank.

Frame drawing Dadan

The Dadan-Blatt hive is reliable for mid-latitudes. Standard 12 frame construction is easy to manufacture. Using quality material and following the technology, you can count on a long life of the hive.

Every beekeeper knows that wild bees seek refuge in natural hiding places, which, for example, can become a hollow tree. But if you decide to start breeding these hardworking insects, then you will have to make every effort to ensure satisfactory working and resting conditions. And this presents a number of difficulties. Of course, there is no shortage of such information, beekeeping books describe in detail the entire process of organizing a hive, but this article is intended to convey to the reader in the most simplified and structured way all the information necessary for correct selection and installation of the hive.

hive types

Before you start building a hive for bees, you need to clearly understand what kind of hive structure you decide to build. There are many various types houses for bees, each of which has its own pros and cons. Detailed description of each type is not the purpose of this article, since this information is available in any beekeeping sources. In this regard, it should be noted that the main types of hives are vertical (riser) and horizontal (bed).

vertical hive

In this case, the vertical one is a two- or three-tier structure containing up to ten frames in each tier. An increase in the volume of the structure is achieved in this case by installing additional buildings or magazines.

horizontal hive

Horizontal hives in their shape resemble elongated horizontal boxes, the increase of which is possible with the help of additional installation new cases on the side.

How to make a beehive with your own hands?

So, it's time to answer the questions: "How to make a beehive with your own hands?" and “What is required for this?” Let's start from the very beginning.

If you have firmly decided to please the bee dynasty with new comfortable apartments, you should clearly know that the hive is designed to provide:

Firstly, reliable protection from temperature changes and any changes in meteorological conditions, since bees are extremely whimsical insects.

Secondly, the dwelling must be equipped with the prospect of lateral and ceiling views insulation, which also protects the bees from changes in the meteorological situation, namely, from excessively low temperatures in winter, and from excessively high temperatures in summer.

Thirdly, the hive should be spacious and provide for a possible expansion of the structure, taking into account the increase in the number of members of the bee family, as well as the supply of food.

And, finally, each beekeeper must create a hive that is convenient in all respects, not only for the bees, but also for his own maintenance. The hive must be strong and durable, well ventilated, and have strong fasteners and interchangeable parts, which makes the design convenient in case of moving or maintenance.

the materials we need

For the manufacture of hives will require the following materials: boards of various widths, made of soft woods. They should be well dried and freed from excessive irregularities and roughness. Boards choose even, with a width of half a centimeter greater than the width of the walls of the hive. This is necessary for stock in case of stripping parts.

Also, it is necessary to prepare nails of the proper diameter that will not violate the integrity of the material. We must not forget that in order to maintain optimal appearance the hive is painted after two to three years.

hive dimensions

Determining the size of the hive is an extremely crucial moment, as this is the basic rule for building hives. Exist universal sizes suitable for hives of any design.

1. The distance between the mediastinums of two adjacent frames is 37.5 mm.

2. Passages for bees, called streets - 12.5 mm. If you decide to install a second housing, the distance between the upper bars of the nesting frames and the lower bars should be 10 mm.

4. The distance from the front and rear walls of the hive to the side rails of the frames is 7.5 mm.

5. Between the lower lath of the nest frame and the bottom - 20 mm.

If you have mastered the basic dimensions of the hive, then you can easily cope with the calculations of additional quantities that will be required in the process of preparing the hive.

components of the hive

Anyone who decides to make a hive with their own hands needs to know that its structure includes the following components:

manufacturing technique

To make the roof, you will need boards 20 mm wide or plywood, which is used in two layers. First of all, you need to take care of the strapping. Its dimensions are 455*455 mm. For its manufacture, boards 15 cm wide will be required. The perimeter of the strapping is complemented by slats that prevent the lid from slipping. A lid covered with oil paint is installed on top.

Canvas is not an obligatory element of the hive and is used for maintenance. It is a piece of burlap used to close the resulting holes in the lid.

The dimensions of the insulating pad should not greatly exceed the dimensions of the hive and are 455 * 455 mm. It is made in the form of a pillow, the filler for which is moss or dry grass.

Main constructive solution for the bottom is the manufacture in the form of a simple bottom, having an indent from the border of the frame by 20 mm. It should fit the size of the hive and be nailed to the hive. There are designs in which the bottom remains loose.

For the manufacture of walls, boards with a size of 20 mm are used. They must be tightly fitted at all distances and tightly fastened with tongues.

Another essential element of bee apartments is the diaphragm. It is designed to separate the bee nest from the empty space. For its manufacture, ten-millimeter plywood is required, to which the sides are attached. It should be a mobile element of the hive. Which is easy to take out and put in.

The frames are made of laths, the material for which is birch or aspen.

hive assembly

Before assembling the hive, it is necessary to prepare four walls, the dimensions and drawings of which are presented below. Then the front wall is connected to the side ones, and then the back wall of the hive is attached. The next step is to hang two nesting frames to the side surfaces of the hive. After that, a floor is attached to the bottom edge, or a mesh is inserted to replace it.

Do not forget about the notch, which is cut out on the front surface of the hive. A knocked-down hive is installed on the floor. A pillow and an insulating canvas are placed on top, which will maintain the desired temperature in the hive, and covered with a lid.

Do-it-yourself polystyrene beehive

If you decide to use a Styrofoam hive, you should familiarize yourself with its pros and cons. Of course there are more advantages, but there are also disadvantages. The advantages are good thermal insulation, lightness, fairly simple manufacture. The disadvantages are associated with the tendency of the walls of the hive to damage, as well as the penetration of light into the gaps between the walls. All shortcomings can be compensated by good maintainability and low manufacturing costs.

  • 1. Requirements for the house and materials for installation
  • 2. Types of hives, design features
  • 3. Structure and installation of individual parts of the hive

IN wild nature honey insects build nests in hollow trees, the ground and other places. In this situation, it is impossible to get a significant amount of honey, so people invented a house for bees (in other words, a beehive). The described design can be done by everyone with their own hands, but first we will deal with the main types of such houses.

Modern beekeepers are accustomed to using hives of the following designs:

  • vertical, consists of several cases with frames, a roof, a liner, a bottom and a stand;
  • more horizontal, resembling a box due to external similarity.

Requirements for the house and materials for installation

Before carrying out work on the installation of the hive, you need to make a drawing. When drawing up sizes, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of keeping bees. Despite the fact that the insects in question are considered unpretentious, it is desirable for them to create the most comfortable living conditions. The bee house should protect from adverse weather (rain, cold wind, hail). The last point that should be taken into account when constructing a hive is the beekeeper's unhindered access to the home of honey insects.

Housing assembly for a multi-hull hive

For the construction of cases and bee frames, pre-treated wood brought to a certain humidity is used. Boards are fastened with nails of the desired length and diameter.

The overall dimensions of the hive should be selected in such a way that the beekeeper can expand the volume of the house when the offspring of honey insects appear. When drawing up the drawing, the place of entry of the bees is noted, the dimensions of all the constituent elements are indicated. In order for the product to last as long as possible, periodic inspection for damage is necessary. After defects are identified, minor repairs should be carried out.

On the preparatory stage they make several drawings, on the main they draw a finished hive, and in additional drawings they indicate the dimensions of individual parts. Also, one of the documents should describe the construction technique and the assembly process.

In the design of the hive, it is necessary to provide compartments for adult insects and larvae. It is noticed that bees take good care of their offspring.

Types of hives, design features

By design features the house for bees can be divided into the following varieties:

  • Alpine. This type is quite compact, it consists of several buildings. Ventilation system missing here;
  • Dadan hives are considered the most popular among beekeepers. The housings of such bee dwellings are built from boards. conifers wood;
  • a budget option is a house made of plywood. Such construction takes little time, but it can be operated for many years;
  • cassette dwellings allow insects to regulate the temperature regime on their own. This design is not recommended to be painted, but can be covered with a protective layer of melted wax;
  • plastic hives are easy to install, light weight and tight. Such dwellings can be quickly moved from place to place, they are also conveniently transported to the field with honey plants;
  • the so-called northern houses for bees have insulated walls, which allows insects to survive during severe frosts;
  • Asian - specially designed for small bee colonies.

And that's not all, we wrote detailed information about these and not only hives in our special articles.

Construction and installation of individual parts of the hive

Let's start, perhaps, from the buildings. As you know, the walls of a bee dwelling can consist of one or more sections of various sizes and designs. Grooves are provided for the installation of frames in each such structural element. If it is planned to make a removable bottom in the house, then the notch should be drilled a little higher from the middle of the body, its diameter is 2.5-3.5 cm. If the bottom of the hive is fixed, then in the lower part of the body front door for insects, they are made in the form of a gap up to 2 cm high and 10 cm long.

According to experts, in a bee house it is better to make a removable lower part, which will simplify the work of caring for bees. But in the case of an integral bottom, this part of the structure is protruded beyond the edges of the house, thus creating an arrival area.

One of the varieties of the hull are stores that are used to accumulate honey. These structural elements are installed on the hive during the main bribe. Shops are especially needed in weak bee colonies, because they are not able to collect a lot of product.

The roof liner is the same store, but it does not have grooves for installing frames. The specified part is placed between the upper body and the roof. It is used to improve the living conditions of insects. Insulation is laid on the liner, and a feeder is also installed.

The roof is made of boards or plywood, which are fixed with nails in the form of a frame. To protect the bee nest from atmospheric moisture, a sheet of metal is nailed to the top of the roof.

Special attention deserves bee frames, which have standard size 43.5 * 30 cm. This constructive part is created by hand from wooden planks in accordance with the indicated dimensions. To fix the frames on the body, the upper bar is extended by 1 centimeter on each side with respect to the lower fastening element. After mounting the frame, stretch the wire and install dry (voshchina).


A simple summer resident or a villager, whose hands begin where they should, can only be prevented from becoming a real beekeeper by a lack of theoretical knowledge. To get started, we offer step-by-step instructions for creating a hive with your own hands. And for starters, here's the main detailed drawing products.

For convenience, all parts are numbered here and their exact dimensions are indicated. Design features are:

  • Plywood roof with holes made in it for feeding bees;
  • Availability hinged sections, which, if desired, can be easily removed and hung back;
  • Protective part sheltering bees from bad weather.

Apart from simple tools like a hammer, we also need equipment for welding. Stock up on everything you need in advance. Here is the list:

  • Measuring tape measure;
  • Paint brushes;
  • A simple pencil and black marker;
  • Drill and screwdriver (or two in one) with a set of drills;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding tool;
  • Tabletop.
  • Having obtained the tools for work, we begin to stock up on all necessary materials and spare parts provided for by the drawings of the hive:
  • Nails 2.5x50;
  • Screws with countersunk head 4x25;
  • Board 32x18 (about 20 linear meters);
  • Plywood sheet 12 mm thick;
  • 2 m of mild steel corners and 0.7 m of aluminum (50x50x3);
  • 4 sheets of mild steel (80x80x3);
  • Linen insulation;
  • Facing material;
  • Glue and paint.

And now detailed plan how to make a beehive. Consider all the steps in stages.

Cutting and marking planks

The width of the slats is 32 mm, the thickness is 18 mm. We cut them in length in accordance with the list presented:

  • 600 mm - 10 pcs.;
  • 564 mm - 12 pcs.;
  • 564 mm - 2 pcs.;
  • 564 mm - 1 pc.;
  • 486 mm - 4 pcs.;
  • 424 mm - 2 pcs.;
  • 154 mm - 4 pcs.;
  • 424 mm (cut at an angle of 45 °) - 2 pcs.;
  • 392 mm (also at 45°) x 2

Drilling pilot holes in planks

Nails should be driven in at an angle, as shown in the photo. To do this, using a cylindrical drill, carefully make small holes.

Now we drill holes in plank #2 in accordance with the image shown.

You can proceed to the next stage of the production of the hive with your own hands.

Assembly of the main node

We carefully assemble the main parts of the structure with the help of glue and nails. Carefully follow the order of the strips and do not make mistakes in the sequence of their connection to each other.

Manufacturing of steel legs

We make 4 structural supports from a steel corner (50x50x3). In accordance with the image, we make holes for the screws. Make sure that they are opposite each other in opposite legs.

If it was not possible to get welding equipment, then you can make a beehive from wood completely, including the legs. But such a design greatly loses in reliability and durability.

Mounting supports

The screws are screwed into the holes in the bottom of the frame. Footboards (80x80x3) should be welded to the corners.

Facing

First of all, we cut out the lining and fasten it with screws, partially overlapping the sections of the hive. For this purpose, it is best to use wood or chipboard.

make a beehive with your own hands. A photo

Taphole device

Letok or the entrance to the hive we make with a jigsaw and a saw. To do this, we cut a hole 460 by 70 mm. We save the cuts, they will be used later.

front view

Fasten the door hinges in such a way that wooden sections were under them. Using a screwdriver, we install a special heel under the exit. The next step, in accordance with the drawings of the hive, is to install the landing board.

landing board

We mount it taking into account the tray, which will be located on the frame. In no case should the board interfere with the tray. Clean the surface with sandpaper and grinder, then apply a thin layer of paint.

Final build step

We fix insulation and insulate structures. It remains only to securely drive the supports into the ground to prevent the structure from tipping over.

We are sure that everyone can make a hive. It will become a comfortable home for the bee family and will bring many benefits to you and your household.

do-it-yourself beehive step-by-step instruction. Video master class

How to make a beehive with your own hands in the garage?

To the boards that are key material in the production of a hive at home, are presented certain requirements. First, the wood must be good dried. Secondly, it is not allowed to have knots, resin. Thirdly, the surface of the board must be even. If the material is ready, then you can proceed to the manufacture of the clamp, with which we will carry out gluing. A device measuring 60 by 30 cm will suffice.

The outer size of our hive is 53x53 cm, the inner one is 45x45. Getting started cutting boards of the right size

do-it-yourself beehive step by step instructions. Photo master class

If there is a jointer, then it will be easier to make a hive.

Via circular saw carry out trimming boards, and with the help of a jointer we adjust them to desired thickness in 37 mm. Now you can select the grooves (20 mm) for connecting the elements to each other.

gluing We carry out using ordinary PVA glue. We tighten with a clamp and let the structure dry. This will take 12 hours.

As a result, we should get 4 shields.

For frame hangers we will need to select grooves 10 mm wide from the inside. Most convenient this work done with a cutter. To secure the lid and magazine, the same groove (10x10 mm) is also selected from the outside. In all four panels, a groove is made (20x20 cm). This will be needed to fix the floor. As you can see, the design is quite simple, so we do not need any complex drawings of the hive here.

We will need another stencil but a slightly different size (45x47 cm) for a more accurate fit of the corners in the upper part of the hive, which will be installed in the coat hanger.

Now let's move on to assembly of shields. We perform the operation using screws 60 mm long. It is more convenient to work with a screwdriver. As a result, we have a finished body of the hive.

The front part of the body with a cutout for the notch and hangers for the frames.

Side wall.

Rear wall of the structure.

And this is what the assembled body looks like.

how to make a beehive out of wood. A photo

We cut a hole for the notch with a size of 10x120 mm, this will be enough.

We continue to collect the hive with our own hands and proceed to bottom installation. We collect it from the boards. The size of the shield should be 490x530 mm. Then you should fix the bottom on the body. You can use nails or screws if you wish. To finally fix the bottom of the hive, it is necessary to install bars measuring 50x50x500 mm on it.

The store is assembled in the same way, which is then attached to the body.

The cover of the hive has a size of 530x530 mm. We make it and do not forget to make a couple on the sides ventilation holes(15x150 mm), closed from the inside with a grid.

For a tighter closure of the lid, it is necessary to choose chamfers (10x10 mm) around the entire perimeter. We install plywood (10-12 mm) on the cover, and we attach insulation to it. In our case, this ceiling tiles. It will not allow the hive to overheat sharply. We install a fiberboard sheet on top and, for strength, we fix the entire structure with a sheet of galvanized iron.

We almost managed to make a beehive. It remains only to upholster the corners of the structure with an iron or aluminum strip. So we will add a fortress hive and it will last longer.

Production of various types of beehives

For manufacturing, we need a standard set of tools, if available, a woodworking machine, glue and paints and varnishes.

Hive of Dadan-Blatt

The most popular type of hives. To make it as a material, we recommend using lime or willow boards. Here is a step-by-step guide to making a beehive with your own hands.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. A photo

The first stage is the preparation of the material. Cooking board 40 mm thick. She will go to the production of the body and bottom of our hive. To install the walls, it is necessary to sample the grooves. A cutter will help with this. We carry out channels 5 by 10 mm in the middle in the place where the boards will be connected.

We make planks 18x4 mm. We will need them soon.

We use PVA glue to assemble the shield. We lubricate the grooves and slats with them and tightly connect them. After that, let the shields dry well. The result should be 4 shields for the hull and 1 for the bottom.

We connect the shields with screws or nails and glue. This is the single-hull hive of Dadan-Blatt. Now you can cut the notch and paint the structure. The next step is to make the cover.

For the manufacture of a cover and a liner, a board with a thickness of 15 mm is best suited. We process it with something moisture resistant and paint it. Be sure to make a couple of ventilation holes with a diameter of 15 mm.

We give the exact dimensions of all parts of the hive (cm):

  • Internal - 45x45x32;
  • Selection of a fold under the frame - 1.1x2;
  • Fold under the body and stores - 1x1.4;
  • Front shield - 53x32x4;
  • Back wall - 53x32x4;
  • Side shields - 48x32x4.

Here are the design drawings.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. A photo

Hive Boa constrictor

This type is very simple, compact and easy to transport. The design of the Boa constrictor provides for a combined bottom, lid and as many as 10 cases.

Here are the exact dimensions of the hive (mm):

  • Housing from the inside - 335x300x135;
  • Frontal and rear walls - 30;
  • Side part - 20;
  • Planks for a frame 5 thick;
  • The width of the upper and lower bars - 25;
  • Side planks - thickness 35;
  • Groove on top bar- 2x27;
  • Frame size - 110x28;
  • Board for the cover - 20x8;
  • The thickness of the air space under the cover is 30;
  • The height of the bars for strapping the bottom is 110;
  • Side beam - 20;
  • Rear and front bar - 30;
  • Letok - 335;
  • Fold for the frame - 15.

And these are his drawings.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. A photo

Hive Varre

One of the most simple options hives that you can make yourself. The body is drawer with 8 rulers. The interval between them should be 12 mm. The ends of the boards are connected directly. The case turns out to be quite rigid due to the grooved connection. In the production of handles, bars of 300x20x20 mm are used. First, they should be glued, and then finally fixed with three nails. In order to rainwater flowed faster, you can mow a little upper edge pens.

The main feature of the Varre hive is liner. Its size is 5 mm smaller than the size of the case itself. This is a great advantage, as the cover is very easy to remove, which means that the work of the beekeeper is facilitated. The gap can be increased up to 10 mm. Most often, moss or straw is used as filling for the roof lining, but leaves and shavings can also be used. A fabric made of dense material will help to fix the material.

The cover is made of boards no more than 20 mm thick. Be sure to arrange ventilation.

For the production of the bottom you will need the same boards. The size of the bottom should be narrower than the main body to protect the hive from moisture at the joints.

Detailed drawings of the Varre hive.



do-it-yourself beehive drawings. A photo

Hive Ruta

The main feature of the design of this type of hive is the same size of the extension and the nest box. A drawing of the Dadan-Blatt hive can help in production. The only difference is the height nest box.

For the normal development of the brood, two bodies are needed. A spacious hive will significantly increase the egg production of the queen bee.

A diaphragm is provided between the bodies. It is necessary for the formation of layering. Layers will be placed in the upper part, and the bee family will be placed in the lower part.

Below are detailed drawings with which you can make a beehive from Ruta wood.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. A photo

Universal hive Kuznetsov

The design consists of:

  • Foundations (2);
  • Cases with a bottom and a pallet (1, 3, 11 and 4, 5 respectively);
  • Grids for the main body (10);
  • Caps (12).

The body is equipped with a special dust collector(6). It consists of several pairs of plates fastened in pairs, which are installed at an angle above the grid. This feature The design is very useful for collecting pollen by bees.

A few drawings that will help you make such a hive with your own hands.

do-it-yourself beehive drawings. A photo

When deciding to go into beekeeping, you will inevitably be faced with the choice of a hive system. Well, having decided, you need to decide whether to purchase ready-made dwellings for bees or make them yourself. Self-production will significantly increase the profitability of beekeeping. You need to consider before you make beehives for bees with your own hands - the drawings are of paramount importance.

Hive systems and their assembly schemes

Since the invention by the Ukrainian beekeeper Petr Ivanovich Prokopovich of the first collapsible frame hive in 1814, many different modifications have been invented. We will look at the most successful hive systems that have received the greatest distribution. It should be stated - one-stop solution does not exist. Each beekeeper who selects hives takes into account the following factors:

Today, using the capabilities of the Internet makes it easier to make beehives with your own hands. Dimensions, drawings, online videos are publicly available within the World Wide Web. You can find everything: what the hive should consist of, characteristics, what devices are used for manufacturing, production step by step.

Dadan-Blatt's invention

The hive was created by a Frenchman, in the USA by Charles Dadant. After his death, the project was improved by the Swiss Blatt. The classic design has one nested housing with internal dimensions 450 mm wide and 450 mm deep - Dadan hive for 12 frames. The drawing is shown below.

Above the nest compartment there are two extensions for a half-frame, then a liner and a roof.

The frame of the lower case is 300 mm high and 435 mm wide (without hangers). Such dimensions allow the bees to fit the brood with a strip of honey on top. This is important for the life of the family during the free periods. The lower Dadanovsky body is able to accommodate a nest strong family. It contains enough food for wintering outside.

Sunbeds

The 300th frame is popular in the post-Soviet space. In addition to the ten and twelve frame hives of Dadan, it is used in common beds for 16, 20 or 24 frames. In these structures, the development of the bee community occurs in a horizontal plane. To protect empty space or unoccupied frames, a front board is used, which is rearranged depending on the strength of the family.

The figure shows a twenty frame version of the design.

An identical view has a sun lounger hive for 24 frames. The drawing, the dimensions of which will be increased by 137 mm in length, will fit 4 frames more.

As mentioned above, the 300th frame holds enough food for wintering, however, it is not ideal for mid-latitudes. When the club reaches the top bar, the bees are stressed. Movement along the frames in winter is a necessary measure.

An interesting solution was the Ukrainian lounger. In it, the frame described above is inverted vertically, that is, 300 mm wide and 435 mm high. The narrow high format allows the bee club to move like in a hollow tree trunk - from the bottom up (see diagram).

The most capacious is the Vladimir sunbed. It is designed for 32 frames 435 by 450 mm. The walls of the hive are framed - two sheets of plywood with polystyrene foam between them. A large volume allows you to keep several families at the same time through blank partitions, with the possibility of uniting for the main bribe.

The advantages of all sunbeds include:

  • accessibility of the nest for the beekeeper;
  • no need for substitution of cases;
  • ideal for a beginner or an amateur who observes all the processes in a bee colony;
  • suitable for operations with frequent reformatting of the nest (obtaining royal jelly, hatching queens).

The main disadvantages are the bulky design, the need for time-consuming framework work. In this regard, these hives are not suitable for commercial beekeeping, more for the household.

Hive Ruta

The modern technology of industrial keeping of bees is not possible without the use of a multi-hull hive. The most common system in the world is the root system..

The frame differs from Dadanov's in height, it is 230 mm. This size allowed to reduce the weight of the filled body. This solved the problem of the beekeeper's labor costs for working with each individual frame. There was an opportunity to make substitution or a fence of the whole case. There are enough of them 4 pieces per season, but you can not be limited to this number. The bottom is more practical to make removable. The design is suitable for transportation during roaming.

Disadvantages of the hive: there is little space for food for wintering in one building. The solution is substitution of subsidies or wintering on two buildings.

Some beekeepers, for example, A.N. Kuznetsov, create universal hives that allow you to work with the Dadan and Rut frames.

Cebro uses a 300 frame in his multi-hull hive, but his design is very bulky and completely stationary.

Horned

Peculiar name bee house received for the pins protruding from the case. The protrusions are needed to fix the structure. This type includes the palyvoda hive, in which all elements are simplified as much as possible. Will be required minimum costs on the homemade production structures called horned beehive. The drawings are shown below.

Making such a hive is quite simple..

One case contains 8 frames 145 mm high. A metal mesh is also used at the bottom of the hole for the entrance to the full width. The design allows, if necessary, to install it on top of the hive.

The advantages of the system include light weight, possibility of transportation, low budget for production. However, we note that thin walls will require measures for warming during wintering. At the peak of the development of colonies, the hive becomes too high.

Cassette

The ideal solution for beekeepers with limited mobility. The cassette hive eliminates the need to rearrange heavy hulls. They are inside the column. Enclosures designed in such a way that they can be pulled out along the rails onto a mobile stand.

Frameless hives

There is a category of beekeepers who have bees without commercial intent. Some of them consider any interference in the life of a bee colony harmful. And also there are people who want to keep bees, but do not plan to delve into the intricacies of beekeeping.

For these categories, a frameless hive is most suitable. The content of bees in such dwellings is as close as possible to natural conditions. The beekeeper does not need deep knowledge of the biology of the bee colony.

Varre

In hives of this type, the basis of honeycombs is wooden slats. As the author Emile Varre said, his system does not require the use of frames, wire, foundation. Visits are kept to a minimum. Another feature is the high attic roof, which is filled with heat-insulating and moisture-absorbing material (sawdust, straw, fallen leaves).

Hive Shapkin

Can be used with or without frames. The hive was invented by the Russian popularizer of contactless beekeeping V.F. Shapkin. In essence, it is a collapsible board.

The walls of the buildings are based on a frame made of wooden blocks. Out goes plastic layer, inside plywood sheathing, foam between them. The combined bottom helps to produce a successful fight against flare.

Manufacturing nuances

It is not necessary to copy completely finished drawing hive. You can combine successful devices different designs, for example, use a high bottom according to German technology. The same decision is radically changed by small nuances - whether or not to make holes for tapholes in the hulls, to use a blind or mesh bottom, etc.

The most popular material for the manufacture of beehives, no doubt, is wood. It is important to take into account its moisture content before building evidence. According to GOST, it should not exceed 15%. In the case of a high moisture content, the structure will inevitably lead, the dimensions of the board will change.