DIY tool for sharpening metal drills. Drawings of a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands. Ways to Achieve the Desired Sharpening Quality

Perhaps every professional craftsman uses drills for their work, which must be of high quality and debugged. Previously, drills were sharpened by hand, but now special machines for sharpening drills... The construction of such a machine is very simple. To create it you need simple materials that are present in almost every home. Let's look at the step-by-step scheme for making a grinder for drills together.

Drill sharpening features

It is almost impossible to drill surfaces with a blunt drill. A sharp drill will solve the situation in minutes. Therefore, the drills must be sharpened at the correct angle and ready to go. The sharpening angles for different materials cannot be the same. The harder the material, the dumber the angle will be. For example, for plastic, a sharpening angle of 30-60 degrees is suitable, and for hardened steel, 130-140 degrees. If there are no great demands on the quality of drilling, you can choose a sharpening angle of 90-100 degrees.

It should be noted that the sharpening of drills can be done manually on abrasive discs or on sharpening machines. During manual sharpening, the drill must be held by the working part with the left hand and guided closer to the cutting part. The right hand should be holding onto the shank. Press the cutting edge of the drill against the side of the grinding wheel. After that, you need to turn the drill with a careful movement. right hand... In this case, the cutting edges must take to the axis correct slope and the required shape.

Sharpen the drill first on one side and then on the other. In this case, it is very important to control the sharpening of the cutting edge so that the point is in the center. Otherwise, the drill will slide to the side during drilling. Also, do not put too much pressure on the drill, as this can lengthen the sharpening process. Manual sharpening is not a very convenient way, as it may entail some defects. For example, if the cutting edges after sharpening the drill are not equal in length and are inclined at different angles to the drill axis, the middle of the transverse edge will shift from the drill axis, so it will rotate around the axis when working. Therefore, it is better to use a grinder for sharpening drills for this purpose.

When sharpening, you should pay attention to the initially set angle. It is on him that you should be guided. After that, see what state the tool is in. If the damage is severe, a coarser emery can be used. If they are minor, a fine-grained emery disc is sufficient. For slight dullness and very minor damage, a finishing circle is suitable. The sharpening of the drill must be carried out sequentially - first, process its upper part, gently pressing it against the plane of the grinding wheel.

After finishing the back surface, you should have the correct taper when viewed from the side. After that, it is processed cutting part drills, and then final finishing. Jumper size at correct processing drills should not be larger than 0.4 millimeters for drills that have a diameter of 8 millimeters or less. If the drill has more large sizes, the size of the jumper should be 1 - 1.5 mm. If you have never sharpened drills, we recommend that you practice on other subjects. So you can quickly understand the technology of sharpening and get your hands on it.

Features of grinding machines

The drill sharpening machine is used for sharpening through and blind drills made of steel, cast iron and hard alloys. This equipment can be endowed with different functions, taking into account the type of sharpening, its dimensions, etc. When working with the machine, the angle can be changed from 90 to 140 degrees. Machine tools can be domestic and industrial. Household machines for sharpening drills are quite compact and are more suitable for home use... They will be able to sharpen drills without large diameter.

Industrial machines are endowed with more power and are designed for sharpening drills that have a large diameter. The power is determined by the motor of the device. The drill grinder has a drill clamp and a grinding wheel that can handle more than 2000 tools. The design provides precise setting drills so that the operator can control the sharpening process. The machine is powered by the mains. Generally, drill grinders are durable and easy to use.

It should be noted that there are universal grinding machines and specialized ones. The first option can be used for a wide variety of cutting tools such as taps, milling cutters, chisels and countersinks. Specialized machines can handle only one type of tool, so they work more accurately. It is to such machines that the grinder for drills belongs. Moreover, for each option for sharpening drills, you need your own machine.

There are seven methods for sharpening drills: single-plane, profiled, compound-screw, elliptical, screw, double-plane and conical. On the universal machines you can use shaped, one-plane, elliptical and two-plane sharpening. As for the rest of the methods, this requires a specialized electric machine for sharpening drills. If the drill has a diameter of more than 3 millimeters, a machine with an optical device must be used. If the drill has a diameter of less than 1 millimeter, a binocular microscope must be used. To sharpen solid drills, use a diamond wheel.

DIY drill sharpening machine

Unfortunately, the market for goods cannot always offer us what we really need, or the price of drill sharpening machines is too high. In this case, you can make the machine yourself. If you have a little experience with the technique, you will very easily cope with this task.

To do this, you will need a toggle switch, a grinding wheel, a plug, a powerful motor, a stand, some wires and an axle. To comply with the safety mode, it is recommended to place the machine in the case, and leave only the axle with the grinding wheel outside, which protrudes slightly. The device will operate on mains power. Moreover, you can connect it to the source and use it as a lightweight and portable machine.

Take care in advance about where your drill sharpener will stand. It is recommended to put it on metal table... To do this, you need to place the electric motor on the tabletop using the fasteners, and then mark the locations of the holes for the bolts. Then remove the motor and drill four holes. Then put the motor back in and secure with the bolts.

Electric motor homemade machine for sharpening drills, it is equipped with a shaft on which you need to put on a granular disc. If the diameter of the shaft matches the diameter of the hole in the disc, it is necessary to put a washer, a disc, then a washer on the shaft. After that, a fastening nut is placed, and the threads are pre-cut on the shaft. Can be used special attachment on a circle in which the drill does not swing and sharpens like a pencil. You can make it yourself or purchase it from the store.

If the shaft diameter is smaller than the hole in the stone, a sleeve must be added. A special hole and a bolt hole are made in it to be able to fix it on the shaft. Then it will not turn with the abrasive disc during operation. At the end of the bushing, it is necessary to cut a right-hand thread in the direction of rotation of the disk in order to fix it using washers and nuts. The sleeve is then slid onto the shaft.

If you find it difficult to decide on the choice of an electric motor, you can use the option from the old washing machine... This power will be most optimal for sharpening necessary tools... Prepare the starter and wire sections in advance. You can use wires from old equipment. Of course, you can purchase new sections, but it is cheaper to use the tools at hand, which are in every home. Therefore, if the old wires are in good condition, they can be safely used.

The wire must be connected to the starter. It is important that the starter has a minimum of three normally open contacts (HP). Its winding must be connected to the phase line through two buttons connected in series. One with H3, which will be the off button, and the second with HP, which will be the power button. This button must be in parallel with the HP contact pair of the starter.

If you press the power button, voltage is applied to the winding and the starter circuits will close, one pair of which will bypass the button. If you release it, the voltage will not be removed from the starter. If you press the shutdown button, we will break the winding power circuit, and the starter will release the contacts, so the motor will stop.

The electric motor is safe even when open form, he does not need additional protection, but it is recommended to do metal box to protect the structure from at least dust. You can make a glass protective screen. This will keep your airways and eyes from getting dust from the circle. It is recommended to install a protective cover, which should cover the end of the abrasive disc by two thirds. It can be made from an old car camera. If the grinding wheel breaks, its parts will be in the casing and will not be able to cause harm.

Drill sharpening procedure on the machine

Most people make do-it-yourself drill grinders. In order not to waste extra money, you can easily build a grinder for drills yourself. Moreover, you can make it universal and, if necessary, sharpen any objects on it. When working, you must strictly follow the instructions for the drill sharpening machine and adhere to certain rules.

The drill bit consists of two small shoulders. It is imperative that they are the same. No need to compare them with high precision measuring instruments, it is enough to estimate by eye. But the sameness must be mandatory. The place where the shoulders converge is called the center of the hole made, the radius of which is determined by the length of the larger shoulder. If they are the same, then the axis of rotation of the drill will coincide with the center of the hole.

If this is not the case, the diameter will be larger than the required one, and by the amount of the difference between the center point of the curved hole and the axis of the drill. This is where the drill breaks the hole. In addition, there is a heavy load on the tool and hands, which often leads to breakage of the drill. When sharpening your drill, remember that it should cut through the material.

Before starting work, make sure that the rotating sanding disc is securely attached to the workbench. It is recommended to wear protective goggles. High-quality sharpening requires at least half an hour. Show accuracy and patience - then the tool will sharpen correctly and will work accordingly. For correct sharpening drills you should know its type - for metal or wood.

During production, each product is sharpened perfectly, which is very difficult to repeat at home. Different grades of Pobedit differ in the method of obtaining the alloy and chemical formula... Such nuances cannot be determined by eye, so the name of the material that suits the drill should be written on the packaging. Look closely at the rotational side of the drill to see which side to sharpen.

For bench machine you may need grinding wheels. They are also called emery, a sharpener or an abrasive wheel. Always start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. When a burr appears along the entire length of the tool, you can change to a finer abrasive. Select the bars in such a way that each next one can clean small defects the previous one. Finally, you make the final finishing with the smallest polished block.

Always adhere to the specified sharpening angle. But for this you need to practice a little. Very often the blade of the tool moves to the side and moves. The sharpening disc should only rotate away from the blade. If it is the other way around, there is a risk of improper sharpening and serious injury.

Please note that drills cannot tolerate overheating. The fact is that in the process of sharpening carbide inserts sometimes they crack and fall off. But this can be avoided. Try not to overheat the drill bit. grindstone... Cool the drill with water regularly. But if the drill is already red hot, do not dip it in liquid! This can cause the plates to crack instantly. Let the product cool down a little on its own.

All twist drills have two cutting edges and back planes, which make the tip of the drill tapered. But if you take a washer with a smaller diameter than the drill and fit it into the hole in the washer, you can see that the cutting edges of the drill are touching the washers. In this case, the rear part of the surface lags behind the cutting edges.

When sharpening drills on a machine with your own hands, pay attention to the observance of safety rules. Remember that the job involves sharp blades that can easily injure you. We hope that our simple instruction will help you understand sharpening technology and build a high-quality device with my own hands... We wish you every success!

It is quite simple to make a device for sharpening drills with your own hands, the conditions for success in this case will be knowledge of the rules for sharpening cutting tool as well as the ability to work hand tool and technical savvy.

The main rules to ensure high-quality sharpening are:

in one pass it is necessary to remove a small layer of metal;
in the process of performing the work, the drill is repeatedly cooled in an aqueous or water-soda solution;
the speed of rotation of the emery wheel should be as low as possible;
the drill, during sharpening, should not overheat;
in the process of performing the work, the drill is directed against the movement of the abrasive wheel.

The volume and nature of the work performed depends on the type of wear of the cutting tool. Wear can be classified by:

back surface;
jumpers;
corners;
chamfer;
front surface.

Depending on the type of drill sharpening, technical characteristics, as well as the purpose, the following types of processing are recommended, such as:

Sharpening type	Diameter	Purpose and characteristics of the sharpening angle
Single normal - "N"	up to 12.0 mm	For universal use. Angle - according to the material being processed.
Single with a jumper undercut - "NP"	up to 12.0 mm	For machining cast steel. The angle is 115-120 °.
Single with undercutting of the lintel and ribbon - "NPL"	over 12.0 mm	For steel and cast steel as well as cast iron. The angle is 115-120 °.
Double with undercut jumper - "DP"	over 12.0 mm	For steel and cast iron with a crust on. Sharpening is performed at two angles: 116-118 ° and 70-75 °.
Double with undercut lintels and ribbons - "DPL"	over 12.0 mm	For universal use... Angle - according to the material being processed.
According to the Zhirov method	over 12.0 mm	Used in the processing of brittle materials. The main sharpening angle is 118 *, additional - 70 ° and 55 °.

Sharpening angles for twist drills used in machining various materials it is necessary to clarify before using them, because they vary from 85 to 135 *, which is due to their viscosity.

How to make a machine with your own hands

For sharpening twist drills, any grinding machine (unit) powered by electrical network 380/220 Volt, equipped with an emery wheel and equipped with a special device that secures the sharpened drill at a certain angle to the axis of rotation of the abrasive element of the device.

Basic requirements for special devices that ensure high-quality performance of work:

The axis of the tool must coincide with the axis of rotation of the abrasive wheel. It can be in the same horizontal plane with it or be slightly higher than it.
The equipment and accessories used must be securely fixed.
The design of the fixture should allow the drill to be sharpened at different angles, depending on the user's needs.

To make one of the options for such devices, you will need:

Hand-held locksmith tools, angle grinder ("grinder"), welding machine.
Sheet steel with a thickness of 3.0 - 4.0 mm, as well as a small diameter steel tube available.

Work on the manufacture of the machine is carried out in the following sequence:

The used grinding machine (No. 5 in the diagram) is firmly fixed on the selected surface.
A platform (No. 1 in the diagram) is made of strip steel, on which the drill will be fixed (No. 3 in the diagram).
The shape of the platform can be arbitrary, the only condition is that a groove is made at the location of the drill by means of a "grinder".
On the site, holes are drilled (No. 6 in the diagram) that serve to secure the mounting plate (No. 2 in the diagram), as well as holes that connect the device to the grinder (not shown in the diagram).
The shape and size of the mounting plate can be arbitrary.
The attachment point to the base of the grinding unit is made of a metal tube and strip steel. The presence of the tube allows for the movement of the device in the vertical plane - it becomes possible to change the angle of sharpening of the drill.
The attachment point of the sharpening device to the grinder body depends on the type and structure of the emery wheel protection unit (No. 4 in the diagram), as well as the presence of a stop (platform) of a specific emery unit.
If desired, the attachment point can be equipped with additional elements, providing oscillatory movement of the device in the horizontal plane, which will provide the required articulation in the process of performing work.
After all the elements of the device are assembled, it is attached to the stop (casing) of the grinding machine and the operability of the manufactured device is checked.

For sharpening twist drills, you can use various emery wheels, but in light of the fact that this consumable(tool) is made of durable steel, then the abrasive elements must comply with this.

Basic requirements for emery wheels:

Electrocorundum grade - 24A, 25A, 91A and 92A.
Granularity - 25-40.
Hardness - M3-CM2

The device for sharpening drills can be made in a different design than the proposed version - both simpler and complex design... The type of such a device is determined by its need and the user's ability to make equipment with their own hands.

When working with solid workpieces, working surface drills wear out quickly. A blunt drill will become very hot and lose strength. This is due to the "letting go" of the metal. The tool must be sharpened periodically. However, this applies not only to drills.

Drills are inexpensive fixtures. In any case, the models used in household... However, it is wasteful to buy a new tip every time it is dull.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but this violates the concept of economical use of household tools.

Wood drills practically do not blunt, except that the tool can be “driven” at high speeds in a resinous workpiece. Pobeditovye tips and a stone are not sharpened. Remains sharpening the drill for metal. Many experienced locksmiths carry out this procedure, without any devices.

However, the accuracy of work leaves much to be desired, and not everyone has an eye home master developed so professionally. In any case, minimal mechanization is needed.

How to make a homemade drill sharpener?

First of all, you need to acquire a means of control. No matter how you sharpen the drill, you need a template to check the accuracy of the work.

Conventional drills for working with ferrous metals have an edge angle of 115-120 degrees. If you have to work with different materials- check out the table of angles:

Processed material	sharpening angle
Steel, cast iron, carbide bronze	115-120
Brass alloys, soft bronze	125-135
Red copper	125
Aluminum and soft alloys based on it	135
Ceramics, granite	135
Wood of any species	135
Magnesium and its alloys	85
Silumin	90-100
Plastic, textolite	90-100

Knowing these values, you can prepare several templates, and in accordance with them, sharpen yourself. In this case, you can use the same drill for different workpieces, you just need to change the angle of the work area vertex.

In principle, you can manually bring a blunt tool into proper condition. But how high will the speed and accuracy be with this technology? Also, if the drill bit is carbide, it can be difficult to do. The author suggests assembling a drill sharpening machine with his own hands, which will allow you to use them repeatedly.

Equipment industrial production is quite expensive - from 43,900 rubles.

True, Chinese products (for example, "GQ-D13") can be bought for 6,800 - 7,200.

But such cheap models are unlikely to suit a home craftsman, given that the case is made of plastic, and the engine power is within the range of 80 - 120 watts. In addition, only certain types of drills can be sharpened on them, so there is no need to talk about the versatility of use. Therefore, such machines do not count. The feasibility of making a do-it-yourself "sharpener" for domestic use is more than obvious.

This article does not consider options for making a grinding machine based on angle grinders (there is not a "grinder" in every home, and hardly anyone will buy it for these purposes only) or an electric drill (for which you will have to look for special devices in stores). The simplest and convenient option- the traditional "winepress" made of scrap materials, which almost any of us have encountered, and more than once.

There is nothing complicated in the design of such a machine. However, there are a number of features in assembling it with your own hands, and this is what the author draws attention to. Having dealt with all the nuances, it will not be difficult to make an installation for the "home" use of labor ().

What you need to build

El / engine

Various drills, including those of large diameter, are sharpened on the machine in everyday life. In addition, the primary processing of the cutting edges of the tool and their finishing is separate stages work. Therefore, you will have to change the circle and put the one that is at hand from the previously purchased ones. Since the machine is a long-term equipment, it is necessary to mount it for the future. Based on this:

engine power: about 1.2 - 1.5 kW is enough;
power supply: single-phase. Any garage or small workshop (shed) on the site, with rare exceptions, is connected to the 1f 220/50 line. This should be the starting point.

Sharpening wheel

Moreover, there should be several of them, with different grain sizes. For reliable fixation of the abrasive on the engine shaft, bushings are prepared that clamp it on both sides.

Sharpening device

You can limit yourself to the simplest "shelf", but then you will not be able to maintain the required angle. This kind of work requires a lot of practical experience.

The device can be purchased, although it is quite rare on sale.

The best option is to make it yourself. For example, these are:

Elements of the scheme

Magnetic starter (with 3 pairs of contacts) for a 3-phase circuit.
Button "start / stop" or 2 different - for turning on and off the machine. And the third is obligatory - emergency stop... It is often combined with a pedal, which is much more convenient and safer, since when sharpening drills hands will be busy.
Wires. At the specified engine power, it is enough for 1 "square".

The simplest connection schemes for three-phase motors are shown in the figures:

An acceptable one is easy to find on the Internet, depending on what kind of motor is used, how its windings are connected ("star" or "triangle"), to which voltage source it will be connected (1 or 3 phases).

Protection elements

Shroud over the circle.
Screen (desirable).

There are certain types of work in which the drills are sharpened only on machine equipment, and not manually.

When drilling on great depth when minor sharpening is required.
If the drills are universal, they can work even with materials of high density.
For making blind holes with a special tool.

It is not recommended to sharpen drills using a grinder for several reasons. Firstly, angle grinders are unlikely to be securely fixed. Secondly, the accuracy will be unsatisfactory. Thirdly, after the end of such sharpening, it is rather difficult to make the correct fine-tuning of the drill. Fourthly, this technique is suitable only for partial restoration of the working capacity of a tool of a relatively small diameter (no more than 5).

Making a machine is not all. It needs to be positioned correctly in order to sharpen the drills as conveniently as possible. The place, the height of the installation is a personal matter of the master. But there is general requirement- exclude the slightest vibration of the equipment and ensure its leveling.

If the workbench in the garage is rather "flimsy", you will have to mount a special table on metal legs. A large corner, pipe or channel is suitable for this. The tabletop, taking into account the weight of the machine (primarily the engine), must be strong. Thin sheet metal is not an option. The machine stand can also be made of wood, but of sufficient thickness. Its attachment also requires attention. It should be as reliable as possible, at all points provided on the engine bed, and only on bolts.

When deciding on the circuit for turning on the engine, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of changing the number of revolutions. Since you will have to work with different drills, you need to know - the harder the material of the tool, the lower it should be angular velocity rotation of the abrasive wheel.

As practice shows, not all inexperienced craftsmen understand when a drill needs to be sharpened. Signs indicating that the instrument is dull:

grinding (sometimes "hum") on initial stage drilling;
rapid heating of the metal, often accompanied by a characteristic odor.

Failure to sharpen in time will significantly reduce the service life of the drill and is the most common reason its breakage.

Do you need drills to always be sharpened, and you won't find a special machine in the daytime with fire even in specialized stores? And make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener. You can easily cope with the assembly of a simple structure if you have at least a little experience in working with basic tools.

Homemade machine

The drill sharpener can be of great value in the household, as with the help of this device you can independently sharpen drills of any diameter and type. In addition to making a special unit, you will need an electric motor with a sharpening stone.

Main materials:

Metal plate with holes - 1 pc .;
Bolt or hairpin 70x15 mm long;
Washer set;
Corner - 30x30 or 40x40;
Plates - 3-4 mm thick;
Cotter pin - 30x1.5 mm;
Clamps.

In addition to materials, you will need tools for their mechanical processing and connections, in particular electric welding and grinder.

Tools:

Electric welding.
Drill.
Bulgarian.
Hammer with percussion tips.
Special clips 2 pcs.
Spanners.
Pliers.

Manufacturing process:

1. Making the mounting plate

The mounting plate is made of a metal backing with holes about 3-4 mm thick. On one side, the part is cut by 3 centimeters, while during cutting it is required to save the finished hole. The cut off part will be needed to make the next part grinding device, but a large element for lining when placing the product on the table.

2. Corner for fixing the drill

The element is intended for fixing the drill during sharpening. It is made by cutting off a part of a regular corner 30x30 or 40x40. The total length varies between 60-90 mm, while the outer part is cut at an angle of 60 degrees to give the sharpened plane the desired level.

3. Fastening for the fixing angle

The cut part with a hole from the plate is connected to the other metal plate, in this case, the elements are superimposed on each other and are electrically welded to the corner. For welding, an assembly cutout should be cut out on the plates in order to fit the parts back to back and weld.

In the connected parts, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the bolt or stud, and the parts themselves are carefully scalded on all sides to give rigidity.

4. Welding the bolt

A bolt or stud is used to fix the angle. The element is welded at a 75 degree angle to the base plate. During scalding, the bottom plane should be taken into account, if necessary, remove the slag in order to prevent the product from skewing.

5. Fastening the washer to the bolt

The washer is installed on the bolt at a level of 25 mm from the upper extreme part. Diameter approx. 30 mm. The element is welded using electric welding in the desired design position, observing all levels along the plane.

6. Hole in the hairpin

If there is no hole for installing the cotter pin in the bolt (hairpin), it is required to make it using a drill and drill required diameter... Due to this technical element, the fixing angle will be fastened. The diameter can be different, but the main condition is a reliable fixation.

7. Drill stop

It is made from a metal bar and a special vise clamp. The bar is welded to the fixing angle from the bottom. The clamping mechanism is mounted on a bar, while a special bowl-stop for the drill should be equipped on the device from the corner.

The system is mounted on a grinding table and fixed with additional clamps.

Video: how to make a drill sharpener.

Drill sharpening machine

This method is available to anyone. To do this, you need a drill. Perhaps not immediately from the store counter, but already morally outdated and not used by you. She will act as a motor.

It must be secured to the bed, insert a sleeve or a ready-to-install grinding wheel or a universal fine-grained disc into the chuck. Everything. When you turn on the drill, you get a rotating abrasive, which is a pleasure to sharpen the drill.

A very simple sharpening solution. However, do not forget about the tools for sharpening the drill, which fixes the sharpened element relative to the sharpener.