Than seams between logs and cracks are closed. How to patch up the tow between the logs inside the house. Reliable sealing of seams between logs is a guarantee of living comfort. Ways to eliminate cracks in a log. How to close up cracks in a log house - the possibilities of modern hermetic

V Lately on the Internet, there are more and more disputes and discussions on the burning question: what is the best way to seal the joints between the joints, than to close up cracks in timber and logs - a long-known tow or modern, specially designed sealants for wood?

From the information provided in various forums, in comments and articles, you may get the feeling thatand tow are interchangeable materials, and the use of one eliminates the need for the other. In fact, this is not entirely true. To begin with, it should be borne in mind that assembling a house and sealing its inter-crown slots are two different types works. And just in the process of assembling tow, jute or other sealing materials will be very useful.

Imagine you are folding a blockhouse. Caulking a log house from a tow log followed by the application of a wood sealant is necessary. There are no perfect logs, so there will still be a need for sealing or connecting material between the logs. But the sealant so popular today will be indispensable when finishing an already finished structure - it will provide additional thermal insulation and protect the tree from the development of bio-damage and moisture penetration.

How to properly seal the gaps between the logs

So, we came to the conclusion that sealant and tow are not interchangeable! For high-quality, effective, durable and professional sealing of inter-crown seams, these funds should be used in combination. Now let's consider the very process of sealing inter-row seams.

1. During the assembly of the house, jute or linseed tow, alternatively you can use cord for sealing seams between logs Vilatherm.

2. After that, it is important to prepare the surface: clean the wood in the sealing area from dust, shavings, dirt, sawdust, putrefactive damage, etc.

3. Immediately before sealing, seal cracks and seams with an area of more than 5 cm. First of all, a sealant is needed to ensure the adhesion of the sealant only to the edges of adjacent logs, and not to their inner surfaces. In this way, the sealant will act as a membrane or rubber band, stretched between surfaces without tearing.

4. You can apply wood sealant in one layer using a syringe, spatula or a special construction tool. Material consumption will depend on the size of the crack / seam, the thickness of the applied layer should be on average from 0.4 to 1 cm.A wooden spatula will help to smooth the seam and provide it with the required shape. rubber roller for rolling wallpaper, a spatula (jointing) or even a finger moistened with soapy water.

Why apply a sealant after caulking a log house with tow, what tasks does it solve?

1. After shrinkage of the logs, the gaps between them can both expand and narrow. Once the insulation has been laid, it will not be enough, and the cracks will have to be repaired. At the first time after the construction of the house, engineers recommend repeating the tamping with tow three times in order to exclude freezing and blowing of the seams.

2. Jute and tow is a favorite prey for birds. They pull material out of the cracks, thereby "exposing" the house. You have to regularly add insulation, repeat the process of caulking the log house, and this is time and additional costs. Joint sealant it is completely unattractive to insects and birds. Use a sealant at least to protect the tow. With its correct application, the need for re-processing of tow will disappear.

3. In the insulation itself, insects often settle, which eat away at the material so that it spills out of the seam. Sealant for wooden house eliminates the possibility of insects entering the cracks between the logs. The danger of destruction of not only tow and sealant, but also, in fact, wood will gradually disappear.

4. In this case, tow will not provide complete sealing of the seams. And the effects of temperature, precipitation and humidity will eventually nullify all the properties of this material, and biodefeats will develop at the joints. However, a properly selected wood sealant will completely fill cracks and seams, which will allow several times to reduce heat loss, as well as prevent the development of bio-damage and moisture penetration into the joints between the joints.

In addition to the above, some wood sealants ( acrylic suture, sealant Neomid Warm House Wood Professional Plus and sealant Neomid Warm House Wood Professional) have a number of important qualities. While providing warmth and comfort, sealants also help maintain a favorable microclimate in the home. At the same time, it forms a vapor-permeable layer and does not interfere natural ventilation... It can be used not only to seal cracks, but also to seal side and end cracks. As a result of the formation of such cracks, the thermal conductivity of the tree drops several times, and only the sealant solves this problem.

Sealant Neomid Warm House Wood Professional Plus will withstand the most extreme temperatures - from -50 to + 70C, so it can be used for sealing joints both inside and outside the house in any climatic zones... And the sealing of cracks with its help can be carried out at any stage of the "life" of a building - both during operation and at the stage of construction.

It is worth noting that modern sealants for a wooden house are aesthetic and environmentally friendly (they do not emit harmful substances into the air). A palette of different shades allows you to choose the composition to match the color of the wood, or, on the contrary, create an effective contrast. And the plasticity of the material will make it possible to form beautiful seam convex, straight or concave shape.

Opinions were divided. Who is right, what materials to use and how? Let's figure it out.

We use acrylic sealants from three manufacturers to seal the joints "Ramsauer" Austria, “Perma-Chink” America and “Neomid” Russia.

Sealing and sealing of seams in logs of a log house implies additional work: grinding, impregnation, caulking, sealing.

The cost of work includes:

1. Sanding the walls – 250/300 r / m2 sanding is optional, we recommend that sanding walls look more aesthetically pleasing.

2. Impregnation logs 50r 1m2, impregnation is optional, we recommend, after sealing it will be difficult to impregnate.

3. Cauliflower improved 100 r / m, before sealing is performed in mandatory .

4. Sealing seams 230r / m"Neomid" Russia (tube weight 700g), 250r / m"Ramsauer" Austria (tube weight 900g), 320r / m"Perma-Chink" America (tube weight 430g) work + material: sealant, foam tourniquet, paper tape, spatulas, brushes, syringe-gun.

5. Sealing seams only work 120r / m, consumables are paid by the Customer.

Important: v p. 1.4 the cost of work is indicated together with consumables, v p. 2,3,5 the cost of work is indicated excluding consumables.

Advice: when concluding a contract for sealing or caulking of seams, prescribe clause without fail - “Sealing or caulking is considered complete if, as a result of the thermal imaging survey, no heat leaks were detected at the work sites ”, agree with the contractor for sealing, caulking "Under the thermal imager", this will help to weed out at the initial stage the bunglers and specialists who do not have the appropriate skills.

Sealing seams

Make sure of the need to insulate the seams with each of the methods, so as not to waste money and not be disappointed in the results.

Stages of sealing seams in a log house

Sealing joints does not exclude caulking, but complements. These are insulation methods, different in effectiveness and purpose. Correct caulking serves as insulation. The disadvantage is the need to repeat it every two to three years. The purpose of the sealant is to get rid of the labor-consuming process, to eliminate the mezhventsovye "cold bridges", that is, to isolate from the wind.

It is a mistake to use a sealant without insulation between the seams. It will not blow through the walls, but it will not protect from the cold. Put on a raincoat in winter - you will not get wet, but without a warm jacket you will freeze. Therefore, under the sealant, the seams must be caulked - get a warm home, reduce heating costs. To make the result happy, follow the stages of sealing the seams in the log house without making mistakes:

If the frame is new and the insulation is hanging between the logs, do not cut it, but hammer it into the seams.

With a lack of experience, it seems that he will not enter. This is not true. There is a lot of space in the grooves, so complete the caulking.

Clean the insulated seams from dust and debris. If the wood is varnished or waxed, sand the surface. Use iron brushes (scratches will help the sealant adhere) or sandpaper. The impregnation must be moisture permeable. Check with your retailer if the coverage is compatible with the product you purchased.

To get a warm seam, fasten an isolon cord between the crowns. This will make the seam look even and aesthetically pleasing. Saves material consumption. Will increase the elasticity of the sealant as two connection points are required, not three.

For large cracks in the trunk, use tow soaked in linseed oil, then seal. After one coat has dried, reapply the sealant if necessary to level the surface of the log.

Observe the thickness and width of the applied substance, which is recommended by the manufacturer. Then the material will withstand the load when the logs are displaced, it will not collapse ahead of time.

Apply the sealant to a damp surface. Use acrylic with silicone or rubber additives. It is suitable for wood because of its adhesion.

Smooth out the seam with a wet trowel or brush. Depending on the consistency, the sealant is covered with a dried film in 10 - 15 minutes. Use water (mild soapy water) to remove excess.

Use masking tape to get an even seam. Take it off right away, don't wait for it to dry. Otherwise, you will not peel away from the sealant. This will eliminate the rinsing of the remaining paste. Not every product will work, first check on a small area how it works.

Buy or rent an air gun - reduce the process by 5 times, save your nerves, time and expensive sealant. It doesn't say that hand tool unacceptable. It is more affordable, but harder to work with.

Observe temperature regime... Make sure the sealed areas are not exposed to rain for the first 5 to 7 hours. Do not work in the hot sun - the seams will crack. If it is + 15/19 ° С outside, morning and evening are preferable.

Note: Sealant application technique may vary depending on brand or gap size. But the principle is the same everywhere. Understand it - handle any product. Do not use your finger in place of a putty knife: you will press hard on the paste, reducing the breaking capacity of the material. The result is flaking and cracking. Make the seam volume in accordance with the parameters specified by the manufacturer.

Choosing materials for embedding

The choice of sealant is difficult - you have to pay attention to the price. It is impossible to check the condition of the sealant that has served for 10 years. Assurances that he has been performing well for a year or two are not an indicator. There is no guarantee that in 5 - 8 years it will not let you down. There are no examples. Alternatively: take samples from the company, test for quality.

For you need a sealant on acrylic base, with the addition of rubber or silicone. The moisture contained in the composition is evenly absorbed into the surface, combining with the wood. A dry tree is moistened. Raw is optional.

Pay attention to consistency. Liquid pastes are easier to work with, but smudges occur. Drying, the seam decreases in volume. With this in mind, keep the recommended seam parameters.

Due to the high price of imported materials, purchase Russian products that have been tested at research institutes. This is Neomid, Atakamast, Accent ... We do not recommend Abris, the consumer reviews are negative.

Make sure the sealant is suitable for wood surfaces. Use the printed product quickly, protect from contact with air - the mixture loses its physical properties.

Purchase materials from specialized stores to avoid buying counterfeit goods. Ask for certification documents, check compliance with GOST, demand warranty coupons, keep receipts.

Check the expiration date. For acrylic sealants it is 12-15 months. For silicone - 2 years. If a release date is not specified, the quality of expired materials is recognized as follows:
acrylic begins to dry in the package, loses its elasticity;
silicone, on the other hand, stops drying altogether.

When working with sealants, read the manufacturer's instructions. Complete drying time is indicated. It reaches 3 weeks, so do not be surprised when you find a fresh consistency under the hardened film after 5 - 7 days. This is fine.

By purchasing a sealant brand Neomid ( Warm house) Wood, please note that after drying it becomes hard, has a low coefficient of elongation. Therefore, do not use for a log house that has not fully shrunk. In this case, choose Wepost Wood or Weatherall.

To prevent the sealant from peeling off after drying, the surface of the logs is sanded. Follow the instructions, adhesion to wood plays an important role. When choosing a product, pay attention to the characteristics.

Please note that indicating the percentage of elongation of the material, the numbers are voiced, but they do not specify how the tests were carried out. The indicators of rupture on the shoulder blades and seams are different, so they should be trusted with caution.

Often manufacturers do not say that an update is required to extend the life of the seal ... This is nonsense, but this is the technique of using some materials. Re-treat the areas: after three or five years.

Use the table to compare the performance of the sealants. The dear ones are considered the best. In order not to be mistaken with the choice, you need to consult a specialist. Based on the parameters of the log house (shrinkage, wood, coating, diameter, purpose of sealing, etc.), a recommendation is made. You cannot advise everyone the same thing.

Popular projects on our website

Comparative table of sealants

Note: When hiring professionals to handle log seams, do not rush to buy a sealant. They work with their materials. The main thing is to make sure that it is suitable for the home.

The ratio of heat loss to the cost of sealing joints (savings options)

Through the thermal imager, it can be seen that the seams between the joints, even with correct caulking, especially in the corners of a log house, draw out heat. By eliminating the "cold bridges" with the help of insulation and sealing, they achieve a reduction in heating costs. The house becomes warm - the need to heat in the same mode disappears.

Types of sealants for inter-log joints

Only when caulking the seams, the wall still remains cold to the touch. Using a sealant from the outside, the access to cold air is blocked. The wall heated inside the room does not cool down, the temperature regime increases sharply. The difference before and after sealing is noticeable. You stop heating the street.

It makes no sense to talk about numbers, indicating the cost of sealing the seams - they are different. But we confirm that the consumption of energy resources will be halved. With a proviso - the insulation and sealing of the seams were done correctly. If matched quality materials, they will last 15 - 30 years. Calculate for yourself how much you will save on heating during this time.

What you can save on:

When building a bath, each owner thinks about the question of how to cover up the seams in an already built bath, which are very visible. After all, no matter how tightly the timber is laid during construction, the seams still remain. And through them precious heat will go away, which will create uncomfortable conditions for the visitors of the bath.

Therefore, in winter period heat in a log bath can only be preserved if all joints, cracks and seams between the crowns are sealed. Moreover, the sealing of the joints in the bath should be carried out with great care.

Wood itself, by virtue of its natural features, may vary in volume and size. And in the bathhouse, due to constant temperature changes, this is especially noticeable, since cracks appear on the logs themselves, and gaps can form between the blocks. This leads to the fact that the bath building becomes unprotected from wind and cold. But this problem is completely solvable, and the insulation does not require large material costs. But the insulation begins even during the construction of the bath, when the initial sealing and sealing of the joints of the bath is carried out.

And then a completely natural question arises: "How can you cover the seams in the bath and ensure its thermal insulation?" As sealants, you can use traditional materials that are usually used when laying crowns: tow, moss. And also sealing joints in the bath are suitable modern materials providing thermal insulation in wooden structures.

Modern hermetic materials

Modern thermal insulation materials elastic and elastic, therefore they are used quite widely, solving the question: how to close up the seams in the bath.

Their feature is that it is easy to work with such sealants, they dry quickly, it is possible to apply several layers if necessary. And it is convenient and profitable.

In addition, modern hermetic materials have high adhesion, which significantly increases the thermal insulation properties, and are not afraid of lowering and fluctuating temperatures in the air and humid environment. But, perhaps, the most important thing is that they do not interfere with the ventilation of the room and are safe for health. Sealants are used not only to seal the joints of the bath, but also to any splits and cracks that form on the wood over time.

Among the latest materials to keep the heat in the bath, special sealing tapes should be noted. They need to be distributed in the space between the timber. They are almost non-caking, which means that you do not need to use other sealed materials, which creates additional savings. In addition, such a sealant can change its shape when the logs begin to move during natural shrinkage baths.

Old traditional hermetic materials won't let you down

If, when deciding how to close up the seams in the bath, you settled on original Russian materials: moss, tow, jute, then the process itself will be more laborious, and special skills will be required. Natural sealants have a lot of advantages over artificial ones:

They include one hundred percent natural materials, to which environmentalists cannot make any claims.
Moss and jute are not released warm air from the room and do not let the cold pass.
They have excellent absorbent qualities, which is very important in constantly damp bath rooms. Therefore, there is no need to worry about the walls starting to rot.

But there is one inconvenience in the use of such materials: it will be necessary to monitor the tightness of the seams during the entire operation of the structure, and not only after the end of shrinkage.

Wooden house building has a very long tradition and is as popular today as it was many centuries ago. However, in order for a house made of wood to be a durable and reliable home for its owners, it must be carefully prepared for a long service. Even with perfect processing, cracks, dents and gaps remain in the wood, and the main enemy of the log house is the leaky seams between the logs. In the process of shrinkage, the wood deforms, which leads to an even greater increase in the gaps through which wind, cold and moisture penetrate into the house. The traditional way getting rid of cracks - log caulking natural materials... Today, there are also other methods, one of them is the sealing of log seams using the warm seam technology.

Insulation of seams in log house must be done without fail, since during the construction of a log house, no matter how high-quality construction works, between the logs there are still "bridges of cold". If you leave everything as it is, then the gaps will continue to widen. The process is especially intense during the first few years after the end of construction, when the wooden structure shrinks a lot.

Sealing seams in wooden house allows:

significantly insulate the structure,
save the house from drafts,
create an optimal humidity regime
increase the room temperature,
reduce your heating costs.

What is the sealing of a log house using the "warm seam" technology

Warm seam is a modern technique that is used to different types wooden buildings... It is used for rounded logs, for baths, houses from a bar. The technology consists in insulating a wooden house with special sealing materials. The main material is a joint sealant, which is used to seal the joints between the logs, and the cracks in the wood itself.

For insulation wooden frame use acrylic-based sealants, which provide effective moisture and thermal insulation. They can be used to seal sedimentary seams. Acrylic sealants tolerate both low and high temperatures well, so they are used to seal cracks in a bath. The most in demand today are American sealants, which have high quality indicators.

When is it correct to seal? Sealing in a log house is carried out no earlier than a year and a half after its construction. By this time, the building will sit down enough, and construction defects will appear that can be eliminated as a result of the work. It is advisable to do both external and internal sealing. Outdoor work is carried out only in a warm period at positive temperatures.

Sealing mezhventsovy seams with sealant in a wooden house is carried out in several stages. Before processing, the surface is carefully prepared: cleaned of dirt, debris, remove knots. If there is old peeling paint, it is removed and these places are sanded. The better the preparation of the wood is, the better the adhesion of the sealant to the surface of the log will be.

The next stage is the polishing of the log house. If the joints are insulated in a newly built log cabin or in log house, then the entire surface is sanded. In the case of sealing the old log house, only the blue areas of the wood are cleaned and polished.

An important part of the work is priming wooden surface... The primer must be applied in two layers. First, an antiseptic is applied, then a primer to degrease the areas where the insulation will be laid. The material is rubbed into the joints between the logs with a coarse brush.

Sealing is necessary not only to waterproof the house, but to protect it from wind and cold. Therefore, before the log house is sealed with a sealant, the inter-crown joints are caulked. Caulking of seams and casing is carried out with natural materials: jute, tow, linen according to old technology... But most often, a special polyethylene cord with a diameter of 6 to 80 mm is used to seal the joints, which serves as additional thermal insulation for the house, and also saves sealant.

The last stage is the application of sealant, for this they use assembly gun with nozzles. The sealant is applied in a uniform layer to the inter-lead joints, previously sealed with a cord. Then it smoothes well and the finishing grout is carried out. The sealant is produced different colors, so it is easy to match it to the shade of the wood. In the future, finish on top of the insulation decorative materials: tourniquet, rope or rope.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with a sealant is widespread today due to its undoubted advantages, among which are:

high speed of insulation, subject to professional performance of the work;
absence of dust, dirt and noise during installation;
the material is not of interest to insects, rodents and birds, fungus and mold do not form on it;
a warm seam is made once, its service life is about 50 years;
sealant withstands high and low temperature, is not afraid of moisture and dampness;
the material is resistant to both mechanical stress and aggressive chemicals.

However, this insulation technique has some disadvantages that also need to be mentioned:

high material cost;
artificial insulation is used;
a warm seam of a rounded log on the street can be done only in positive and dry weather;
for the sealant to dry completely, it takes from twenty days to a month.

What difficulties can you face when working independently?

Application technology for wooden houses and log cabins warm seam seems simple at first glance. This is actually enough hard work, the quality of which largely depends on the knowledge and experience of the master. When faced with sealing for the first time, untrained people will surely experience many problems that begin at the very first stage. It is very important to choose the right sealant and tool for work, choose right size cord.

Particular attention should be paid to surface preparation, if it is performed poorly, then this can negate all further work. The difficulty is also caused by the gasket of insulation and the application of sealant. Both must be done very carefully. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology, any violation can lead to undesirable consequences.

Log sealing services

The company "Master Srubov" offers professional services for sealing wooden houses using the warm seam method. Our company has everything you need for high-quality performance of work - qualified craftsmen who are fluent in this technique, a sufficient stock of knowledge and experience, necessary tool and readiness to start work at any time convenient for you.

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We use only certified sealants, their price will be minimal for you, since we work directly with manufacturers. We apply a loyal pricing policy, which provides various discounts for regular customers. You can contact us using the coordinates on the page.

A wooden house is a safe and environmentally friendly home with a special cozy atmosphere. Wood perfectly retains heat, fills the house with a pleasant forest aroma, is highly durable and durable. It is aesthetic and attractive material, which will harmoniously fit into the landscape and will allow you to create any design.

However, the tree has a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility negative impact moisture, twisting and drying, shrinkage. As a result, gaps appear on the log and on the timber, as well as between the materials.

Cracks and crevices in a wooden house

In the process of shrinkage at home and due to strong temperature changes, the absence correct insulation and waterproofing on wooden materials and cracks appear between them. To avoid this, it is important to process the wood during construction.

The logs and beams are covered with antiseptics after the manufacture of lumber, during the assembly of the log house and during the final finishing work. In the future, a wooden house also requires maintenance. Protective treatment carried out every 3-6 years, depending on the type and quality of antiseptics.

In this case, it is very important to carry out competent and reliable insulation of a wooden house, since it protects the timber and log from strong cracking. In addition, you need to choose products with good drying.

The masters construction company"MariSrub" independently produce timber and logs, carefully monitor each stage of production. We use safe and high-quality chamber drying, which prevents the wood from cracking. Be sure to process lumber with protective compounds!

If cracks and cracks appear, the defects must be eliminated. They reduce the thermal insulation properties of the house, as a result, the walls or floor will be blown through, and drafts will appear in the room. In addition, cracks greatly spoil the aesthetic appearance Houses. In the future, the cracks grow and aggravate these problems, negatively affect the condition of the lumber. Therefore, it is important to eliminate defects in time and correctly.

Types of slits

Longitudinal cracks and cracks form on a bar or log, since the tree has a fibrous structure. But in rare cases, longitudinal defects are also formed due to overloading or rotting of wood. With this problem, the affected areas must be replaced. Longitudinal slots can be eliminated on their own using easy methods.

Longitudinal cracks in structure and direction are of the following types:

Straight lines coincide with the axis of the log or bar;
Spiral or uneven not aligned with the axis;
Segmental - uneven defects with fiber transition.

It is possible to close up cracks and cracks using polyurethane foam, tow and moss, putty or sealant, homemade compounds, regardless of the type of defect. Note that polyurethane foam and it is better not to use silicone for a wooden house, since synthetic agents violate the environmental friendliness and safety of the tree. After such treatment, the log or timber will not be able to “breathe”. In addition, such formulations often give off a harmful toxic odor. Let's take a closer look at how and how to seal the cracks in a wooden house.

How to close gaps with caulking

Caulking machine effectively insulates the house and closes the formed cracks, reliably blocking the cold access to the room. Moss and tow - traditional materials for insulating a wooden house and for sealing gaps, which are environmentally friendly and safe. They will not violate the naturalness of the wood and the aesthetics of the structure.

Before use, take wet moss and dry it completely, and then soak it in water half an hour before starting work. Then the water is drained, the moss is squeezed out and rolled into rollers. The rollers are placed in the joints, cracks and cracks, sealed with a hammer or mallet and left to dry for three days. After drying, the excess material is trimmed.

Instead of moss, you can use tow or jute fiber, which is placed in the joints and crevices. The tow, if desired, is poured with gypsum or cement, or left in pure form... The quality of the caulk can be checked with a nail, knife or sharp awl. The product is stuck between logs or timber. It doesn't have to go right through! Read more about caulking a wooden house.

How to seal cracks with sealant

Elimination of cracks and cracks by sealing is the most common method due to the availability and ease of installation. Sealants firmly bond the break walls of the tree. To prevent the agent from getting on the surface of the wood, cover the edges of the gap with masking tape. Then, a tow or jute tourniquet or fabric for sealing is placed in the slots and inter-crown joints. And already on top, apply a sealant with a spatula or a pistol.

When applying the sealant, seams, joints and crevices are not completely filled to the brim. The composition is applied so that it touches at two points of the tree and connects two opposite edges. The sealant is left for at least six hours, and after hardening, the sealed gaps are painted over to obtain a more aesthetic appearance.

If during the work the agent nevertheless gets on the clean surface of a log or bar, after drying, remove it with a fine sandpaper... The craftsmen of the MariSrub company efficiently and efficiently seal a wooden house, which ensures reliable hydro and thermal insulation, and also prevents wood from drying out and the appearance of cracks or cracks.

The most optimal tool for a wooden house will be acrylic sealant... It is environmentally friendly and safe remedy without smell. It is not afraid of temperature extremes and dampness, reliably holds the walls of the wood and eliminates cracks or crevices. Cannot be used for a wooden house silicone sealant due to the harmful composition. In addition, such material cannot be painted, and it will spoil the appearance of the tree. The most popular brands are Russian-made Neomid and Eurotex.

How to putty cracks

Defects can be repaired with a ready-made wood putty, which is resistant to cold and dampness. It dries quickly and lasts a long time. For minor cracks, choose a thick product that is water based as it adheres well to wood. For deep defects - liquid formulations containing solvents. Today you will find a wide selection of putties.

Acrylic is the safest odorless and colorless product that is suitable for cracks up to 2 mm deep. It retains the natural texture and tone of the wood, is easy to apply and dries quickly. Acrylic putty evens the surface and does not allow moisture to pass through. For internal works also use a gypsum composition. It is a plastic material with easy application... It maintains a comfortable microclimate and is absolutely safe for a wooden house.

Waterproof putty is suitable for sealing cracks outside the log house, as it is highly resistant to moisture and dampness, precipitation and temperature extremes. The composition is made in the form of a paste based on glue, oils or polymers. Polymer agent masks cracks, seams, joints and is suitable for finishing... The glue putty is easy to apply to wood and is highly durable. And the oil base is used when they plan to further coat the wood with oil, paint or varnish.

If deep cracks and chips appear in a wooden house, choose a non-shrinking putty. This is a high-quality, reliable, strong and durable compound that is perfect for logging. You can easily match the color of the product to the color of the tree. The most popular are putties from Tikkurila, Eurotex and Extra.

Other ways to seal gaps

You don't have to buy putty, but make your own putty. To do this, mix PVA glue and sawdust until thick and, using a spatula, fill the gaps with the mixture;
Use a chip of the same length as the defect to close wide gaps. The piece of wood is sharpened with a wedge and the crack is hammered, and the top is fixed with putty or homemade putty;
Arbogypsum is another tool that is used to seal cracks in a wooden house. It contains dry gypsum and crushed bark or sawdust in a 1: 3 ratio. It turns out a strong and reliable composition, which is diluted with water in the volume of half of the taken gypsum. The elastic and dense mass is mixed until the lumps are homogeneous and dissolve. For greater plasticity and elasticity, you can add a little shampoo to the product. Fill up the cracks with freshly prepared mixture, as it hardens quickly.

Whichever method you choose, before work you need to thoroughly clean the lumber or log walls, as well as clean the cracks from debris and dust. It is better to close up defects in freezing temperatures, in dry weather and on dry wood. After caulking with moss, the walls are left to dry for three days, when working with other materials - at least six hours.