How to insulate a log house inside. Warming of a log house outside: technology and insulation features. General information about insulation

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewage to electrician and finishing), installation of window structures. Hobbies: Watch Column "Specialization and Skills"

At first glance, sort out how to insulate a log house - quite simple. Such structures themselves differ in good energy-saving potential, because they will be quite warm and without additional finishes.

On the other hand, if you do everything right, then the savings on heating will be colossal. Walls with high-quality thermal insulation are very well preserved heat, and in the summer heat they do not give the room to heat up. So we can reduce costs not only for the purchase of fuel, but also on air conditioning.

In this article, I will talk about my experience in the complex thermal insulation of the house, folded from the rounded log. In addition, as additional information, I will give several tips of other masters - I was able to estimate them with the effectiveness of them, which is called, "live", but it has not yet applied.

Outdoor finish

Step 1. Cleaning and caulking

Works on the thermal insulation of the building folded from the logs can be divided into two processes: an internal and external finish. If finances allow you to hire two brigades that will work in parallel. But if you plan to warm up with your own hands, then start standing with outdoor skin.

Before proceeding to insulation, it is worth the maximum to put the log walls themselves. The better than you will perform this stage of work, the more durable it turns out the design. In addition, chucking the jokes between the crowns and repaired cracks in the logs, we inspire the drafts caused by blowing.

I work like this:

Using a grinding machine with a nozzle in the form of a wire brush, we clean the outer surface of the login. I do it in order to remove all weakly holding fragments of wood, pieces of bark, etc. - In general, all that sooner or later still fall off.
Then in the windless weather I pass with a candle inside the house, and I find areas where the blowing will be the strongest. Of course, it is necessary to careen all the seams, but it is better to know where you have to put a more sealing material.

If the caught house is already insulated, then look for the spots of blowing the best in winter. As a rule, on the outer walls opposite such points, stripes are formed - their appearance is caused by the flows of warm air emerging from the heated room.

To fulfill the cacopa, I choose a dry warm day. To fill the seams, I use jute fiber and pass, but moss can be applied. The last option, by the way, is distinguished by high hygroscopicity, therefore it can be used to normalize the humidity regime.
The process of sealing interventic joints is quite simple: with the help of a wooden blade and heavy hammer, I score in all the cracks of the fibrous material, applying efforts until laid fibers start actively sprouting.
In the cracks of the logs lay the polymer cord, which fixes the sealant. This technology allows you to stop the expansion of cracks and reduce heat loss through the slot formed in the wood.

After completion of the cacopa and repair, the cracks gently cut off the excess fibers protruding for the wall plane. Then I process the logs with antiseptic impregnation, applying it in several layers. After sheeling, wood will be in a warm and rather humid environment, which can provoke its rotting under the influence of bacteria or the development of fungal colonies.

In addition to the antiseptic, I would advise the use of also the flame retardant - a composition that reduces flammability of wood. The processing price will increase slightly, but the level of fire safety we will increase at times.

At the final stage on the ends of the logs, we apply a special sealant, closing pores. Let this part of the wall and will be hidden under the trim, but still additional protection against cracking is definitely not excess.

Step 2. Arrangement of the ventilated facade

The insulation of a log house outside can be performed in several schemes, but from my point of view the optimal solution will be the arrangement of the ventilated facade. So we will not only reduce the heat loss of the building, but we can normalize the microclimate, ensuring the natural ventilation of the walls, and therefore - the unimpeded removal of excess moisture.

The ventilated facade is a multilayer design that is fixed directly on the carrier walls. I do it according to the following algorithm:

Work is starting with the installation of a frame from the bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm. The bars attach either on the walls themselves or on the support pads of the tree or on the steel brackets. The choice of fastener method depends on whether the insulation of which thickness will be used: we need the distance between the outer plane of the crate and the wall is equal to or slightly more of the thickness of the heat insulating plate.
The pitch of the bars of the crate also depends on the size of the thermal insulation: I usually do it equal to about 57-58 cm: Then the mineral wool of a standard width of 60 cm is included in the frame cell practically without deformation, but at the same time it is perfectly kept due to natural elasticity.

Insulation, if necessary, clipped into size, insert into the frame cells, additionally fixing each panel with several dowels with a plate neck. For outdoor thermal insulation, it is best to get mineral wool, since the foam and expanded polystyrene are almost not allowed air, which can lead to an increase in the level of humidity in the room.
Very often they ask me whether it is necessary to close the thermal insulation layer. The answer is simple: necessarily! To protect against moisture and purging, I use a special membrane with an indicator of vapor permeability of at least 1400mg, attaching it with brackets directly to the crate.

The next stage is the construction of a counterbalax. Here, it seems to me, there will be enough bars with a cross section of 30x30 mm. We feed the bars on the frame over the windproof membrane in such a way that they formed the perfectly smooth plane. It is a counterclaim that will make our facade ventilated, ensuring the gap between the insulation with waterproofing and the outer skin.

Final stage - installation of the trim. To optimize costs, you can sew a log house with vinyl siding, but I would still recommend using either false beads or a block cham. In the second case, by the way, the appearance of the building will practically change, but energy-saving characteristics will increase by an order.

After completing the trim, you can pay the time to finish the "fine":

to process wooden trimming with antiseptics and antipirens;
separate window and doorways by installing platbands;
close the base special on the substrate from the foamed polyurethane, etc.

And when all these works are completed, you can go inside, or rather - to rise to the roof: it is from there that we will begin the next stage of thermal insulation.

Interior decoration

Step 3. Insulation of the roof and ceilings

The insulation of the log house from the inside (however, as many other finishing works) should be carried out by moving from top to bottom: so already decorated areas will be exposed to a significantly lower load. It is these considerations that I follow, starting the thermal insulation of the building from the attic.

A single-storey building with an uncutable attic (more precisely, if the attic is used only as a warehouse) can be limited to the warming insulation. But still I would advise to insulate and the roofing rates. As a rule, this operation reduces the overall heat loss of the building by about 10-15%, which is in terms of money saved on heating, will be quite significantly.

We work like this:

Even at the installation stage of roofing material on rafters, we laid the waterproofing film. This layer is necessary, since during wetting the efficiency of almost any insulation is significantly reduced.
Next, from the inside, in between rafters, lay mineral wool slabs. Optimum selection - Rockwool Roof Batts or similar products oriented on roofing work.

Next, in order to avoid condensate formation, overlapping the insulation of a vaporizolation membrane - it will protect the mineral fiber from wetting.
On top of the vaporizolation, you feed the counterclaim from the rails to which the trimming of the trim. An uncompatible attic can be seen plywood or OSB-plates, but still it is worth spending and ennoble the room with the help of lining.

Now I will tell you from the inside the overlap:

The first layer on the draft ceiling, which is listed below to the beams of overlapping, fill the vaporizolation membrane. It will become a barrier on the path of moisture vapor, rising top from the residential premises.

Next, in the intervals between the beams, the ceiling plates are placed. We try to place them with a minimum amount of gaps, and all the cracks we blow up self-seeping polymer foam (polyurethane or liquid foam).
Instead of plates based on mineral fiber, it is possible to use an eclawer - cellulosic insulation, which is sprayed on the design using a special compressor.

From above on the beams of overlappings, we laid down the flooring from the boards, forming the floor of an attic or attic room. At the same time, watches that there is no less than 15-20 mm between the filling and thermal insulation material for an effective air exchange.

Step 4. Heat insulation of walls

The question of whether it is necessary to insulate the walls of the log house from the inside, it is worth solving at the planning stage. It is possible that the outer thermal insulation is enough - then it will be enough for us to put in order internal junctions between the crowns and process the logs themselves by a protective and decorative composition.

Also can help the covering with one layer of lining - wooden boards themselves are not bad "keep" heat, so that additional energy saving is guaranteed to us.

If it is necessary to radically reduce heat loss, then without high-quality thermal insulation we can not do:

Walls cavalus (if it was not done earlier), and then we proceed with fire and bioprotective compositions.
For all carrier surfaces, you feed the crate of a wooden bar (it, by the way, also processes antiseptics and antipirens).
Then mount the sheathing of slab materials or lining. We collect the trim parts, starting upwards.
As the framework of the frame, we fill the gap between the wall and the material fixed on the crate, eco-art. The loose cellulosic insulation we blow in the cavity under pressure, following the trim, there are no large emptiness.

After completing the insulation, we finish the walls finally, and then we carry out the finish finish - the walls from the slab materials with spitting and staining either in the wallpaper, we are gluable and either quicked, or insert the vehicles / oils for natural wood.

Instructionby internal insulation, also allows the use of plates based on mineral fiber. They are mounted in the cells of the crates, followed by the overlap of the vapor insulating membrane and the covering of the letters or similar materials.

Step 5. Floor insulation

Finally, we have one more step - the heat insulation of the floor. Here it is best to start working with the soil base:

The ground inside the foundation is carefully trambed, after which we fall asleep it with a sandy or sandy-gravel pillow with a capacity of 20 to 40 cm. The subferee is pretty condensed.
Over the pillow of sand and gravel lay the waterproofing membrane. You can also perform a sweeping, the bay surface of the submarine layer with a liquid solution based on cement M150 - M200.

The next layer is a ceramzite or perlite. We embarrass the granular material with a layer of 40 cm so that the upper edge of the submetage is slightly lower than the upper edge of the lag.
We overlap the clamping layer with waterproofing material - pergamin, polyethylene or special membrane. When installing this layer, we necessarily leave the free edges of the lag (about 10-15 cm on each side) - it was on these areas from the wood that surrounding moisture.
Next, mount the rough flooring of boards or thick plywood.

Naturally, the gender insulation technology described by me in the house of the log is not the only one possible. In some cases, it will be more expedient to enter the lags at the bottom of the draft flooring, fixing it with cranial bars, and on top of the flooring lay the slab insulation with waterproofing.

In any case, at the final stage, we need to handle the wooden parts of the floor with an antiseptic and flame retardant composition - only after this processing, the room can be operated without risk.

The cost of finishing materials

The implementation of thermal insulation works across the entire house is a very cost project. Accordingly, in order to at half the way we do not remain without money, the budget needs to be planned in advance.

The volume of purchases depends primarily from the area of \u200b\u200byour home and the list of planned works, but still preliminary calculations can be done now. To do this, you can use the table in which I made current prices for some heat-insulating and finishing materials:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral Wool Isover Plaster Facade, 1200x600x100 mm	packaging 4 pcs.	1400 — 1700
Insulation Rockwool 800x600x50 mm	packaging 4 pcs.	650 — 800
Jute sealant 10 cm	m. Pog.	8 — 10
Moss for Konopkka	bag 10 kg	300 — 450
Bituminous mastic	20 kg	350 — 500
Dali Universal Antiseptic	5 L.	450 — 600
Woodmaster KSD, firebow composition	10 L.	550 — 600
Pinotex imprara impregnation	10 L.	4800 -5200
Foam Façade PSB-C 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Polystyrene foam sheet, 1250х600х50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Bar wooden for frame, 6 m	pC.	90 – 180
Dowel Tarled 100x10 mm	100 pieces.	250 – 350
Windproof Membrane for Rockwool walls	70 m2.	1500 — 1700
Film vapor insulation TechnoHaut B-70	70 m2.	670 — 750
Bracket sliding for ventilated facade	pC.	25 -35
Vinyl siding, 3500х205 mm	pC.	120 – 450
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2.	650 — 1200
Ekwata.	1 m2.	From 1700 to 3000 depending on the planning technology

Naturally, only the basic materials necessary for complex thermal insulation are indicated here: the prices for auxiliary elements and fasteners should be clarified.

Conclusion

Realizing how to insulate the house from the log outside and from the inside as efficiently as possible, and successfully implementing such a project, we will get the opportunity to significantly reduce the costs of housing content.

And since the fuel does not become cheaper, then think about the modernization of the building is worth each. To do this, it is worth carefully reading explanations in the text part of the material, to explore the proposed video, as well as ask all the questions you are interested in in the comments. And only armed with all the necessary information, you need to start work!

September 6, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

The tree is one of the most eco-friendly materials that is well kept warm. 25 cm wide log house can be compared with 1 meter of brick masonry on thermal insulation properties. So that such a building remains as warm in the cold season, it is necessary to correctly carry out the warming of the log house outside and from the inside.

Where does heat loss come from?

Heat leakage in the house with the arrival of winter colds can be a serious problem for its inhabitants. The most common reasons for this are marriage in the construction, through slots between the logs, the appearance of cracks during the shrinkage of the building, unsuccessfully selected insulation and vapor barrier. Heat leak can be determined independently. Start follow from the ceiling. Through the ceiling leaves the largest part of the heat - up to 70%.

When checking the walls, it is worth paying attention to window and doorways. If the doors and windows are installed poorly, warm air will quickly disappear into the street. Also examine how the walls are legitimate.

The thermal insulation of the log house is usually thought out at the stage of its construction. But any structure over time winds. In the old wooden houses of the thermal insulating layer, often does not happen. What to do in this case? High-quality external warming of a log house will help to breathe new life into it and give the owners not one decade in comfort and warmth.

Thermal insulation of the wooden house from the inside will give additional energy efficiency. In order to spend all the work correctly, it is necessary to accurately follow the ventilation scheme between the insulation and the trim to avoid the appearance of condensate.

With the insulation of a log building, with their own hands, two materials are mainly used: construction plasterboard or thermal insulating plaster. Mounting the first slightly reduces the main area of \u200b\u200bthe room. This method of insulation is used when during the cold season the house is much cold. Stucco is used only in heated rooms.

Selection of insulation

In order for the house to be warm, the thermal insulation material should be correctly selected. The basic requirements for it will be properties that guarantee comfort and safety for human health and human life: good vapor permeability, moisture resistance, fire safety, resistance to the spread of mold, fungi and other pests, air permeability.

The most common materials for insulation: mineral wool, eco-water, sawdust, foam.

Mineral wool is made of silicate alloys of rocks, therefore it is an environmentally friendly material. The main advantage is high resistance to rotting and fire safety.

Produced in a comfortable form - in the form of plates or mats, so it is easy and simply attached to the surface of the cut.

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its high cost. Also, this material is crushed and deformed.

Equata is made from cellulose fibers. It is also an environmentally friendly insulation. Equata is resistant to burning, which is very important in the construction of a wooden church. When mounting to the wall, it easily takes the right shape and fits tightly to the log, so such insulation is much longer and high quality is warm.

Its cost is significantly lower than mineral wool, but inferior to it in strength. Under the influence of external climatic factors, the material is quickly deformed.

For evaporation, an eco-job requires the use of special equipment, which is very uncomfortable when building it yourself. It is applied to the crate by spraying. The material should be moistened with water or special glue.

When spraying, it forms a dense layer, which reliably protect the house from freezing in winter. After applying, it is recommended to leave it to complete drying, it usually takes no more than three days.

Sawdust

Sawdust is the most environmentally friendly and cheapest material among insulation. In terms of heat preservation, it is not inferior to modern thermal insulation. But sawdusts have significant drawbacks: easily flammable, are subject to rotting when moisture getting into them, insects and rodents often come.

In its pure form, wood chips are not used for the warming of a church. Usually used for thermal insulation from within the opilk concrete, and outside the granules or pressed plates. Granules fall asleep at the bottom up. Over time, such a material gives shrinkage, so it is necessary to make a subtype at a certain time. Pressed plates are attached to the crate.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is one of the cheapest insulation. It is easy to install it with your own hands. Mounted in a pre-installed clamp. The only drawback is the steam-resistant, which can lead to a reference to the tree and its rotting, so it is trying to not use it for the insulation of wooden houses. Experts recommend to stop their choice on more eco-friendly materials.

The most suitable insulation material is mineral wool. It is installed in the frame. Due to the high density, the plates are well held between the bars and perfectly adjacent to the rounded log. The material is properly stacked up.

Warming of a log house outside

Usually, the house is starting the house outside, and then from the inside.

First Stage - Preparation of Srub

All external surfaces need to be treated with antiseptic and anti-high-livest means.

Then you should check the walls for the presence of slots. All this is chipped by mounting foam, jute fiber or packles.

Second stage - installation of the crate

Wooden frame set to wall surfaces. For its construction, a bars of 5 cm wide and 10 cm thick are usually used.

The fixation of the boards is performed vertically during a half-meter step. The width of the thermal insulation material must be greater than this value.

Third stage - vaporizoation

A vapor insulation material is fastened to the resulting frame. It is necessary to protect the tree from moisture. Aluminum foil or polyethylene film is suitable as such a material.

The layer fastening to the walls of the gallated log is performed by brackets or nails, which are stuck with construction tape.

Fourth - waterproofing

The main task of the installation of the waterproofing layer is the protection of the insulation from humidity.

The film is fastened to the Wooden Carcass of Machine with nails.

All butt places glued down by construction scotch.

Fifth stage - installation of additional crate

An additional framework is set on top of the waterproofing layer, which will ensure the circulation of oxygen that prevents the appearance of condensate on the film.

Additional design will avoid the spread of fungus and mold. The framework is built from the rails having a size of 3 cm by 6 cm.

Sixth Stage - Exterior Finish

Facing a wooden house is necessary for the transformation of its appearance. Now there are many different options for plating: front panels, siding, lining.

What to choose is a matter of taste. Whatever the decoration of the rounded log, experts recommend to leave a small gap of about 3 cm between the trim and the waterproofing layer.

After buying a new house, I could not even think that soon he would require cardinal measures related to the insulation of the walls. All I heard about the loophole houses is that they perfectly retain heat and regulate the level of humidity. However, lived in it to the first cold, I realized that the issue of insulation is displayed for me to the fore. Since all the repair work, I always spend your own hands, then the insulation of a log house decided to spend independently.

Warm a log house with your own hands

Causes due to which insulation is necessary

Independently insulate a log house

Most often, the presence of constant drafts and rapid cooling of the house after the heating is turned off, is the incorrect location of the radiators and the "battlement" of the structure. The fact is that the tree is a natural material is inclined to be subjected to various negative influences. The time comes when the log house begins to lose its properties and should be insulated outside.

For the insulation of a loop house, it is possible to use the processing of the attic, the panty of the walls, as well as heat insulation. However, I decided to start outside the house, since the repair of the indoor room was not planned in the near future. Preparing materials for log walls, I created a list of the necessary properties that they must possess:

Parry permeability is a key to successful thermal insulation, so it is simply obliged to carry out this property to use outside the house and still to finish the logs.
Moisture resistance - due to the possible accumulation of moisture, the wood begins to rot, so the material should push it
Fire safety is necessary for any finishing material, especially if it is used together with a tree, which in its origin is influenced by fire
The loose structure that the insulation may have to allow to lay down to a log surface sufficiently tightly and not to form adverse clearances.

Based on this list of properties, several types of thermal insulation can be distinguished, which we will continue about and talk about.

Materials for thermal insulation

Warm wooden house

The modern building market is filled with various types of insulation and each of them can be used to achieve one and the same goal, but on different surfaces. Judging and the above list of properties, I allocated several materials that can be warmed by a log house:

Slag and clayzit - being bulk materials, they allow you to fill in possible gaps and cracks that are typical of wood structures. At the same time, they are available, and all work can be done with their own hands.
The eco-advantage is that when installing on the surface, the ecological wool merges with a wooden wall, forming a durable and dense coating with good properties of thermal insulation. Material is manufactured using the processing of waste paper, and later, cellulose fibers are produced
Sawdust is a fairly common option of warming houses. Despite the use of high technologies for making material with excellent qualities, the insulation is quite inexpensive
Polyfoam - also called Penoplex or polystyrene foam. One of the cheapest insulation options is very easy and easy to install. However, its use for log houses is not justified due to high recorder performance. Because of this, wood is amenable to rotting
Mineral wool is a good option for a wooden house. With proper thermal insulation, the walls will be reliably protected from rotting and manifestations of fungus. In addition, rodents are indifferent to the mineral wool and do not make their homes in it. For mineral wool, characteristic indicators of good resistance to burning

Thanks to this diversity, I was able to choose the best insulation for my house, which approached me, both on the installation technology and the price.

Important! All finishing works for a log house, both outside and inside should occur no earlier than a year after construction completion.

So the house acquired by me was already pretty old, I did not have to wait for some time, and I immediately began to insulate with my own hands.

The process of independent insulation

As it turned out, one selection of thermal insulation and installation on the surface was not enough. As one familiar Master said: Before holding all the finishing works, it is necessary to qualitatively to make a brave house. However, not all cracks can be quite visible and therefore there is a good way to identify defective places:

This method is to identify imperceptible slots of which can be blown in winter. To do this, the candle is taken and it is carried out extremely close to the surface of the walls. If the candle fire is noticeably tilted towards the wall, then there is a slot in this place
It is recommended to carry out this event.
By the way, if on the street Winter and you wanted to reveal the gaps now, then you only need to carefully review the surface of the log walls. If there are even small manifestations in some places, it means that heat leakage was revealed in this place.

All processes should be carried out with their own hands only in dry and warm weather. The process of insulation of my house outside occurred using mineral wool. And I want to note that the thermal insulation occurs with the improvement of the ventilated facade for the beer facility. So let's look at how to insulate a log house.

All technology of insulation do it yourself outside, lies in such a sequence:

The first thing is the processing of walls. This uses an antiseptic and flame retardant. For owners of wooden houses or facing, these terms will not be new, since these materials protect wood from fire and mold manifestations
Next is made a doom. Brux with a cross section of 5 cm should be stuffing on the walls vertically. The distance between the bars should be a pair of centimeters less than the width of the insulation used. I used minvati plates with a density of 35-50kg / m3
The insulation is inserted between the design of the crate and firmly stuffed in the opening. The process begins bottom-up. Very often, at this stage, problems may arise, since it is very difficult to put the material close to the uneven brave wall. To do this, the "Basaltin" in the rolls in the rolls are laid between the bars of the frame and the surface of the walls
When the plates are installed, it is necessary to carry out the installation of the windshield waterproofing membrane. To this stage you need to treat very seriously, as it can reduce all your efforts. I used membrane with vapor permeability in 1400g / 1
On top of the windscreens, the bars of crates are reinstalled, which are later the installation of siding panels. Of course, I decided to use a wooden block mobile phone and thus returns the look as soon as possible to my log house. However, you can use metal or vinyl siding, a wide color palette of which allows you to create incredible facades.

If you have not yet decided with the help of what and how to insulate a log house, then I hope my article helped you decide on the work site. Conducting insulation from the outside allows not only to create a favorable microclimate indoors, but also to preserve the precious living area that is so necessary for us. In addition, insulation from the outside is very profitable during the finishing of the log walls using a ventilated facade.

The unique feature of houses from logs is that they are able to ensure the preservation of heat in the interior and regulate the humidity of the air within certain limits. But sometimes the owners with the onset of winter discover the shortcomings in the level of thermal insulation.

It often happens if the log house was recently purchased and is not in better condition. Then the need arises to carry out high-quality insulation of such a building.

Do I need to warm a log house?

The owners of the log houses sometimes notice that there is drafts in the premises, and the floor and the walls are quickly cooled after disconnecting the heating. So that this does not occur, high-quality thermal insulation of the construction should be carried out. Many elements of the building need in insulation. Especially serious heat loss are characteristic of the attic, because through it it can take up to 70% of the warmth of the heat.

In addition to the attic or attic, walls and all those elements through which heat leaks can be observed in thermal insulation. The latter includes slopes, window sills, windows, entrance doors. Walls from the logs should also be well-cocked if there are noticeable gaps. A wonderful addition to the usual heating system will be the "warm floor", to lay which is easy to be on its own.

The main reason for the rapid cooling of air in the interior is the insufficient thickness of the outer walls. But there is one interesting specificity here: the lower the natural humidity of the air, the thinner can be the walls. For those regions where humidity is low, it is enough to use the logs of about 20 cm thick. But for most regions, the country is still characterized by "wet" winter, therefore, to obtain decent heat insulation, it is necessary to build construction from logs with a diameter of 40 cm and more. When such a moment is not taken into account, there are subsequent problems with the level of insulation. How to boost it? This will be discussed further.

Materials for the warming of a log house

To preserve a favorable microclimate in a log house, it is best to use natural materials. The so-called "grandfathers" methods of insulation allow to obtain excellent thermal insulation, and they are noticeably cheaper. Heat the attic will turn out if you fall asleep a mixture in it from the ground and clay. For the implementation of such a process will be suitable including clamzit and eco-art. It is possible to cross the walls with the help of materials such as hemp, moss, jute, palable, and so on. The surface of the floor will be able to protect if applying clay or slab mineral wool.

But even such events sometimes lacks, to make the thermal insulation of the house of the logs high. Then you will have to use additional ways to ensure thermal insulation. For insulation of walls it is necessary to use materials that differ in high vapor permeability. At the same time, the insulation should not accumulate moisture. Well, if it is fire-resistant, environmentally friendly and uninteresting for insects and other pests.

Stripping from such requirements, as suitable insulation for log builds, it turns out to be called such. Walls are better to warm up minvata or eco-art. The attic will be reliably insulating sawdust or clay. At the same time, the foam, penplex and other polystyrene-based materials are not necessary. Their low vapor permeability will cause the walls of wood very quickly, because they will be covered with moisture.

Stages of the insulation of the house from the log outside

The most proper method is considered thermal insulation of log walls from the outdoor side. The reason is that wood is characterized by a unique ability to pass through itself. With the arrangement of the ventilated facade, all conditions will remain to achieve a good weathering effect. But here you have to take into account that it is possible to move to insulation activities only after the log cabin will give a shrinkage. This requires about a year.

1. Konopka log house

Regardless of the selected method of insulation, the first action of the owner should be caulking. To start the wall, it is necessary to see for the presence of slots. All detected problem areas are covered with hemp or packles. To qualitatively to cross all the gaps, you will need to push the material used by a special spatula. It is necessary to do this until he is represented into an "obstacle".

2. The device of the ventilated facade

The optimal method of external insulation of the house is considered to install a ventilated facade. Works are carried out in a certain order. They look like that.

1. Wooden walls are coated with an antiseptic agent.
2. The lamp is installed, the distance between the elements of which is almost similar to the width of the insulation slabs. It must be about 1.5 cm less.
3. Laying of thermal insulation materials. Plates should go tight between the frame elements.
4. Located windproof or waterproofing.
5. Installation of the second crate with the subsequent installation of siding.

To create waterproofing, it is better to choose a superdiffuse membrane. It allows you to protect the insulation from contact with moisture. But on the reverse side, that is, from the wall, the moisture will become effectively allotted. Therefore, the walls will be able to breathe. But it is important that the superdiffuse membrane laid with some siding gap. Also in the upper and lower part there are produced, allowing air to circulate normally.

How to insulate a log house from within

Specialists advise to resort to internal warming only in exceptional situations. When placing the insulation from the inside there is a risk that the logs will stop breathing. Subsequently, this will cause mold development. During internal works, the thermal insulator is better laying on the attic and the floor, as well as additionally insulate the doors and windows.

1. Insulation the attic in the house from the log house

In a single-storey log insulation, the indoor ceiling, which is then coated with heat-insulating material, so that the insulation layer amounted to about 25 cm. In buildings with the attic floor, warming on the inside of the roof with laying insulation between floors. The intergenerational floors are insulated so that the protective layer is 5-10 cm thick. The insulation of the roof involves filling waterproofing, followed by a 20 cm layer layer layer 20 cm. Thermal insulation is covered with a vaporizolation membrane and is muted by plasterboard.

2. Wall insulation inside a log house

The walls themselves should be left without insulation. But all the cracks and gaps are required to get rid of. To this end, jute, moss, panel, special interventical insulation are used. Increase the thermal insulation will be possible if you hold the inner cladding with wooden lining.

3. Floor insulation in a log house

At this stage, the space between lags is filled with insulation, after which the draft floor is formed. In the role of the insulation will fit a grainzit or minvat.

Thermal insulation of a log house - a comprehensive procedure

Only with a comprehensive approach to the insulation of the house of the logs will be able to obtain decent heat insulation. If the procedures described above still did not give decent protection from the cold, from the northern side of the building, it is necessary to make an extension in the form of a veranda and additionally it is insulated. Then the heat loss will decrease, an additional air layer will appear between the external environment and indoor rooms.

Before mounting the ventilated facade, it is necessary to think about how to insulate a log-free private house from the inside. If you correctly choose the materials and keep the technology of thermal insulation, it will be enough to ensure the protection of the building. It does not have to spoil the facade of the structure.

The thermal insulation of the private house from Breign implies the insulation of all surfaces: walls, ceiling, floor and roofs. Experts are not recommended to lay the building material inside the walls, since wood will start rot.

Heat insulation roofing and ceiling

The scheme of insulation of the roof and ceiling. Click on the photo to enlarge.

It should be started with the roof and the ceiling, because it is through the roof most of the heat leaves. In a single-storey building with an attic, the procedure begins with the floorproofing film flooring on an attic overlap. As a heater uses mineral wool, sawdust or seaweed, which are distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe installed film. The layer thickness may vary from 150 to 250 mm. On top of the insulation stacked the boards so that in the attic of the house it was possible to walk.

If instead of the attic in the house there is an attic floor, it is necessary to insulate not only the inter-storey overlap, but also the roofing rod. For the wooden floor, for these purposes, bulk material is used, which is placed from the inside between lags, and for concrete - plates or rolls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer varies from 50 to 100 mm.

The insulation of the roof of the roof of the log structure begins with the floorproofing filling. Next, the insulation is laid on it (for example, mineral wool) with a layer of 150-200 mm. From above the steeringproof membrane is fixed, the task of which is to protect the heat-insulating material from moisture. In conclusion, the root is mounted and the premises are finished.

Inner insulation of walls

Since thermal insulation from the inside of log walls is impossible, you can cross them.

Attention should be paid to the door and window openings, for which an interventic insulation or mineral wool is used. Experts do not recommend applying a mounting foam, because it quickly breaks and loses its properties due to the constant movement of the log house.

The decoration of the walls of the structure from the logs can be performed by means of wooden lining. But between it and the base wall of the house can not be mounted insulation. This kind of finishing will increase the thickness of the wall, and it will prevent the loss of heat.

Before performing the warming of a log house, it is necessary to prepare the surface from the inside:

clean walls from dust and contamination;
treat the wood composition against insects;
apply a liquid that prevents rotting;
fill the slit jute fiber.

After the implementation of the listed procedures, the wall insulation can be started.

First of all, a waterproofing barrier should be equipped. Next, set the vertical crate from the bar with a cross section of 5x5 cm and step 30 cm. Before mounting, the bars must be treated with the compositions that protect them from burning and rotting.

Before laying mineral wool to the crate, the material is cut on the bands of the required length. Their width of 20 mm should exceed the distance between the bars. Each strip is neatly laid and fixed with anchor bolts so that the material holds firmly and ensure reliable insulation.

On top of the roaster and thermal insulation material, a vapor barrier film is mounted, which will protect mineral wool from moisture and prevents its small particles to enter the air. The film is fixed by a construction stapler. The material is placed with an outbreak to 10 cm to securely protect the insulation and prevent the depression of the house from the inside.

To enjoy the premises of the house on top of the heat-insulating cake, it is again installed, using a 3x4 cm bruks. For the inner lining of the log building, you can use wooden lining.

Wall insulation foam

Warming of the log house with foam. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Heat the walls are possible with the help of foam. Since thermal insulation will be carried out from the inside of the structure, the sheets of less thickness should be used, rather than with an external finish. To calculate the required amount of foam, it is enough to multiply the height of the walls of the house for the length.

Before heating the walls of the foam, the surface preparation is performed: purified from dust and dirt, treated with emulsions. Experts note that the insulation of the private structure of the foam is not the best option, because it is not an environmentally clean building material and is easily amenable to the combustion process. However, thermal insulation through foam has advantages:

reduction of heat loss, even if the gaps in the walls were not embedded before the process of insulation;
the heat insulator of a small thickness is able to protect the house from the cold;
the log house promptly warms up, even if it is rarely operated;
simplicity of the process of installation of insulating material;
provided a good level of noise insulation.

Heat insulation

Wood floor insulation diagram. Click on the photo to enlarge.

In order for the log house to be as warm as possible and cozy, it is necessary to insulate its gender. In the process, it is important to comply with sexual coating technology on the soil. First of all, there is a recess, then the waterproofing film is installed, and the insulation itself is installed.

Wood floor insulation

If the floor is wooden, the thermal insulation material is placed between lags with a layer of 100-150 mm. After the black and finishing floor are equipped. If there was a need to warm the concrete floor, between the main layer of concrete and the subtlet should be laid extruded polystyrene foam or foam. Plate thickness should be 50-80 mm.

Often, the warming of a log house is performed using the installation of the "warm floor" system, then there is no need for the ventilated facade. Properly equipped system is able to provide comfortable accommodation in the house, so it is not necessary to sow walls outside.