Warm seam technology for warming wooden houses, description and video. Recommendations for applying sealant using the Warm Seam technology Insulation of a wooden house at the seams

During the operation of a wooden house, cracks and crevices appear in the structure, through which heat escapes, cold and drafts appear. To avoid this, it is important to properly insulate the walls. Proper insulation will reduce heating costs by 30-40%, create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere inside the house. Moss, jute and tow are considered traditional heaters, which are used for caulking logs. However, today a warm seam technology for a wooden house is popular, which involves the use of a sealant.

A warm seam is a technology that hides cracks and seams using a special sealant. Acrylic wood sealant is safe and environmentally friendly, so it is perfect for a wooden house. The composition of the product is elastic and easily penetrates into every crack or crack. After hardening, it forms a strong and plastic film that takes any shape.

Sealant Benefits

The elastic composition quickly and easily fills any crack or gap;
Stretches and shrinks between the logs, takes the desired shape along with the shrinkage of the house;
Prevents the penetration of cold into the house and the formation of drafts, retains heat indoors for a long time;
Reduces heating and caulking costs;
Maintains a comfortable temperature and humidity level at home;
Safe material does not violate the environmental friendliness of wood and allows natural wood to “breathe”;
The material is not afraid of moisture or dampness, so mold or rot does not form on the surface of the warm seam;
Retains and does not lose color over time;
Perfectly tolerates temperature extremes, frost and heat, exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
Insulation work can be carried out at any time of the year;
The installation process takes place without noise, dust and unpleasant odors;
Hides natural defects and shortcomings of a log or timber, gives the materials an aesthetic appearance;
Strength and reliability of materials;
Quick and easy installation;
Affordable price of materials and technology warm seam for wooden houses;
It is enough to make a warm seam once, while caulking the walls with jute, moss and other similar materials requires periodic repetition.

Mounting technology

Sealing a log house using a warm seam technology involves four main stages. Work can be performed only 6-12 months after the shrinkage of the log house. It is advisable to insulate the walls at an air temperature not lower than +5 - +10 degrees. In colder weather, the sealant may not cure.

First of all, the surface of the walls must be prepared. To do this, clean the walls of dust and dirt. If this is not a new home, remove the old varnish or paint. A heat-insulating polyethylene cord is laid in the gaps between the crowns and in the cracks or cracks formed. Then a sealant is applied with a layer thickness of 4-6 mm. Immediately after applying the composition, air bubbles and excess fragments of the solution are removed from the surface.

Warming starts from the lowest crown and goes along the perimeter of the house, first from the outside, and then inside, and only then move on to the next crown. The material is driven tightly, evenly and consistently. After the work has been done, the sealant is left until completely solidified and polymerized for a week.

The technology of laying hermetic seams is quite easy, so you can do the insulation of the walls of a wooden house with your own hands. It is important to follow the technology of laying and sealing interventional gaps, to choose a high-quality sealant. The durability and reliability of work, the effectiveness of a warm seam depend on the quality of the material.

Which sealant to choose

Sealants come in three types. First of all, it is a soft mass that completely fills the space of cracks and gaps. It is in convenient tubes, has a different color. Therefore, you can easily match the shade to the color of the tree. As a result, the material will look harmonious.

Liquid solution in briquettes is used for deep and large cracks or gaps. The solution is applied using a special gun. Another type of sealant is polyethylene foam in the form of a cord or bundle, which is pushed between the crowns and aligned. The material also comes in different colors.

Liquids in tubes, in turn, also come in different types depending on the type of raw material. By the way, such material is suitable not only for warming the house, but also for sealing cracks or cracks in logs. In this case, the following types of sealant are distinguished:

Acrylic is the most common and suitable option for use in a wooden house. It is a waterproof and safe composition, which is characterized by strength and durability, elasticity and increased resistance to moisture. It stretches with the shrinkage of the house and withstands any deformation. It is used for both external and internal insulation;
Silicone is also suitable for work inside and outside the house. The material tolerates high humidity, temperature changes and cold, exposure to sunlight. This is an environmentally friendly and safe material that will last a long time and also prevent the appearance of rot on the logs;
Bituminous sealants contain bitumen and polyurethane. Such toxic agents are used only for external insulation. They are highly moisture resistant and durable.

Masters of "MariSrub" recommend the use of insulation with sealant in combination with caulking of wooden walls. Then you will achieve maximum efficiency. Let's execute the full list of works on construction and furnish of the wooden house from a bar or a log. We will select high-quality durable materials, reliably and on time we will perform wall insulation. We build wooden houses on a turnkey basis and under shrinkage according to an individual or standard project!

Due to the ability of wood to “breathe”, a special microclimate is created in wooden houses. However, the flip side of the coin is the gaps at the seams and cracks that appear during operation. How to restore the tightness of the walls and minimize heat loss - let's deal with the craftsmen of FORUMHOUSE. Consider:

Why do wooden walls need grouting?
What is a caulk.
What is a warm seam.

Do you like to ride, love to carry sleds, or why wooden houses require attention

Wood is not only the most environmentally friendly building material, but also the most deformable - it shrinks, dries out, changes geometry with changes in humidity. Log cabins made of chopped or rounded logs, as well as timber of natural moisture, are especially susceptible to these phenomena. In the process of assembling a wooden box, interventional insulation is necessarily used, which is laid in each row, but it is not enough to completely seal the seams.

As the shrinkage increases, the thickness of the seams between the log / beam increases, and through them not only heat escapes from the house, but moisture also gets inside the walls.

This is fraught with both unnecessary heating costs and a decrease in the strength and durability of the structure. Therefore, after a while, the interval depends on both the quality of the lumber and the quality of the assembly; sealing of seams and cracks is required. Today, two methods of sealing wooden walls are in demand - caulking and a warm seam.

Caulker

The traditional way of processing seams - with the help of special devices, the grooves are filled as densely as possible with natural insulation with the formation of a small roller on the front side.

The walls are caulked both outside and inside, this method not only allows you to get rid of cracks and minimize heat loss, but also increases the decorative effect. From ancient times, moss was used for caulking, which simultaneously served as an antiseptic, but today other natural materials are more often used - linen, felt, tow or jute.

Primary caulking is carried out simultaneously with the assembly of the box - a wide interventional insulation is used and a roller is formed from the protruding edge and hammered into the seam.

The next treatment is carried out after shrinkage and polishing of the log house, the best option is two years later (OCB) or one year later if settlement is planned earlier. But in this case, after the first heating season, a repeat may be required. For many, the question that worries one of our craftsmen is relevant.

glyuck FORUMHOUSE User

Long read the topics on the forum, but did not come to a consensus. Now the log house is being polished, I thought then to caulk and paint. Cut 1 year. But many write that it is better to caulk a year after installing the heating, so that the logs dry out, otherwise caulk again. What about winter heating costs? How to do it better?

According to experienced forum users, it's worth the wait.

Carpenter29 FORUMHOUSE User

The most optimal solution is to caulk after two heating seasons.

Another option.

IPaltus FORUMHOUSE User

Now tuck openly dubious places, turn on the heating and caulk for the second or even third year.

Of course, you will have to heat the street, but it is justified.

avsergeev71 FORUMHOUSE User

Believe me, the cost of re-caulking (and in this case you will definitely have to do it) will not be comparable to the cost of the heating season. As for the year - I would wait not a year, but two.

So that heat losses are not critical, and blowing through the seams does not replace ventilation, at the assembly stage you should not save on interventional insulation. glyuck can afford to wait just thanks to a responsible approach.

glyuck

So I will do it, I decided in time not to caulk now. Moreover, my log cabin was laid on the thickest superjut, and each log was rammed with a huge sledgehammer. Now everything is already quite tight, but in any case, in two years I will caulk, as you advised.

Houses assembled from a simple bar of natural moisture are also subject to shrinkage, although to a lesser extent than log houses. During the assembly process, interventional insulation is also used, and caulking is carried out on average after a year and a half.

Warm seam

A warm seam is also used in houses made of chopped or rounded logs, and in houses made of ordinary, profiled and glued beams. This technology is especially widespread precisely on a profiled beam of natural moisture, since it is difficult to caulk due to the interlock, and there is a need for sealing the seams. A properly assembled glulam box gives minimal shrinkage and in most cases no additional grouting is required in the walls. But if such a need still arises, a warm seam is the best option.

This is a modern technology that involves the use of synthetic materials - polymer filler and acrylic sealant. The filler is an elastic cord made of polyethylene foam or a thin tape, the cord is used to fill thick seams and crevices, the tape is used for narrow ones. On top of the cord / tape, the seam is filled with sealant, the layer thickness is from 5 mm.

The composition is characterized by high adhesion to the surface and elasticity, it completely seals the seam and adapts to the seasonal deformations of the wood.

Not everyone understands why to use cord/tape.

Vladimir_Ilich FORUMHOUSE User

Tell me, is laying a sealing harness before sealing a necessary technical process, or is it a personal choice?

Holtzschutz FORUMHOUSE User

Of course, it’s a personal choice: either you do it as it should, which means it’s economical, checked by properties, productive and beautiful, or whatever you want, in the range from “I’ll figure it out myself” and “I think these details are superfluous”, to “a neighbor did it yesterday, he says that forever." We are satisfied with both options: in the first case, we see a satisfied client, in the second case, sales for the same house immediately double, and in a couple of years the client is again a buyer.

With old tow, you should be careful.

Interhouse FORUMHOUSE User

The sealant should stick only to the top and bottom log/beam, and then it will work in tension and compression. If he sticks to the tow, then he, together with the tow, will fly out of the seam over time. Therefore, we first either knock out the old tow or cut it off, then lay the foam polyethylene cord (the sealant does not stick to it), and then we apply the sealant.

Some believe that it is realistic to do without a sealant.

Pilotajnik FORUMHOUSE User

Regarding the sealing harness: if the house has “settled”, put it where there are gaps. Where there are no gaps between the logs, it can not be laid, but this is subject to the complete shrinkage of the house. There are examples of houses on which sealing was carried out exactly according to this principle 5-6 years ago, and there are no problems.

Like natural materials used for caulking, acrylic sealant is permeable, it prevents moisture from entering the seams from the outside, but does not clog them.

A warm seam is performed after grinding the wood and treating the walls with antiseptic compounds.

Depending on the manufacturer, sealants are available both tinted and neutral, for subsequent painting with specialized oils, azures or waxes. Given that a high-quality sealant is designed for 10-15 years of service, protective and decorative coatings require updating more often, it is worth choosing specialized compounds that do not require wood grinding before application.

Interhouse

"Long-playing" paints are remarkable in that they are updated after 5-7 years without grinding, with 1 layer of the same paint / oil / impregnation. I do not recommend varnish, precisely because the wood is covered with a film. And after a few years you will have to grind, because the paint simply will not be absorbed, this is at best.

The technology for applying sealant depends on the form of release, plus each manufacturer gives its own recommendations, but to make the seam not only tight and durable, our craftsmen can give some advice.

Sibman22 FORUMHOUSE User

After applying the sealant, always used several metal spatulas to match the size of the joint. Smoothing with a spatula allows you to maintain the uniformity of the seam, both in thickness and in width. The existing surface roughness was smoothed out with an ordinary kitchen sponge moistened with water. With it, we also remove jambs, smears and blunders from the log (we immediately wash it in a bucket and use it further). The use of a sponge allows you to make a visually smooth transition between the sealant and the wood and does not leave clearly marked borders of the seam contour.

Hand-modified rubber spatulas are also suitable.

Nata-K FORUMHOUSE User

These spatulas were made by us, they helped a lot in the work, there was also a very soft 25 mm brush.

The warm seam is a modern t technology for sealing joints and cracks in a wooden house, which provides reliable protection against drafts, cold, mold and insects. The sealant adheres tightly to the wood, fills all the cracks and cracks, preventing cold and wind from penetrating through it.

Due to its elasticity, the warm seam does not crack when the frame moves. Suitable for indoor and outdoor use, withstands negative temperatures up to -45 ° С

High quality insulation

In order for the sealant to perform its functions at a high level, a professional approach is necessary.

"Three rules" of high-quality insulation:

The surface is thoroughly cleaned before application, which ensures high adhesion of the sealant to the log, in the future it does not fall off and does not crack.

A warm seam is applied with a professional gun, if necessary, a heat-insulating cord is placed in deep cracks

And, of course, a lot depends on the sealant itself. In our work we use high-quality sealants, proven by experience and time:

Acrylic sealant RAMSAUER 160 ACRYL (Austria)

Remmers Acril 100 (Germany) WoodenWood (Slovenia)

Perma-Chink (America)

FAQ:

We put up a house in winter, when can we seal it?

Sealing work is carried out along with painting and sanding, 1-2 years after construction is completed, this is the necessary time for the house to shrink and dry.

Sealant applied before or after painting?

First, the house is painted, and then the sealant is applied. If desired, a warm seam can be repainted.

When can I make a warm seam on the outside?

Works are carried out at an average daily air temperature of at least +5°C. The season starts from May. In winter, there are options to cover the house with a dome and warm it with heat guns, but this is an additional surcharge.

Should it be done outside or inside?

Ideally, the seams should be sealed inside and outside the wooden house. This creates a sealed air chamber between the logs. There will be no mistake if the sealing of the interventional seams is performed only on the outside or inside

Do I need to caulk before sealing?

We answer: it is not necessary - caulking will be an extra procedure. If you have caulked the walls, then we have to pull out or cut off moss, jute or tow, and this is an additional cost. Sealant should not be applied to caulked walls.

When to seal cracks inside?

It is optimal to seal cracks inside no earlier than 1-2 years after the completion of construction and after the first heating season. This is necessary for the cracks to open completely, as sometimes the crack opening reaches values of 100-200% or even 300%.

We pay special attention to the fact that cracks up to 5 mm are not sealed.

Comparison of warm seam and caulk

Wooden buildings are subject to the influence of precipitation, temperature changes. After erection, a new tree shrinks, resulting in cracks and cracks. To prevent the deterioration of the microclimate in the room, the so-called warm seam for a wooden house is intended. The technology eliminates the shortcomings of natural wood and protects buildings from the cold.

The essence of the technique

Joints between logs in a wooden house require sealing, as well as seams in concrete, brick buildings. However, the insulation process is very different and involves the use of other materials. Conventional building compounds will not last long, and during the shrinkage of the tree, they can begin to crumble and collapse, and they will have to be changed quite often. But the sealant from the "warm seam" series works much more efficiently and is more reliable.

The "warm seam" technology is multi-stage and implies the following:

first, the gaps between the logs, the timber, are sealed with any heat-insulating material;
the joint is caulked from above with a special cord, which will prevent the insulation from contacting the sealing compound;
at the end of the work, a layer of warm seam is applied - a special sealant suitable for wood, based on acrylic, silicone or polyurethane.

The finished seam can be painted with any improvised materials. The joint will be strong, will not allow moisture to pass through and will prevent the house from blowing through. Sealant is rarely used in isolation, without additional caulking, because the gaps between the logs are quite large, and it can fall out when the material is shifted.

Features of joint sealants for wood

Professional wood sealants are considered versatile and highly effective products. They are great for creating warm seams in a log house, for filling gaps and holes in brickwork, concrete, natural stone, suitable for working on gas and foam concrete, plastic, plastered surfaces.

Sealant "warm seam" 100% protects wooden buildings from wind, precipitation, temperature changes. All products additionally contain antifungal additives that prevent mold from multiplying.

Properties and characteristics of sealants:

safe for humans and the environment;
suitable for outdoor and indoor work;
have good elasticity (the elongation rate of some sealants can reach 700%);
have a high degree of adhesion to wood and other building materials;
are resistant to atmospheric factors and UV radiation;
do not suffer from yellowing, darkening over time.

Good sealants have the property of being thixotropic. This means that they can be used without problems on vertical foundations and inclined surfaces: they do not flow when at rest.

The choice of sealant for a warm seam

The selection of a means for sealing seams must be carried out with great care. If you purchase a low-quality wood sealant, there is a risk of wasting effort and money on its application. When buying, you need to make sure that the product is really suitable for the “warm seam” technology and has excellent adhesion to wood.

Its service life in outdoor conditions should be 15–20 years or more, and shrinkage after drying should be absent or minimal. The good elasticity of the compositions is also important, as well as the convenience of their application: they should be produced in a tube that is ideally suited for a mounting gun.

Seam sealants are produced in a wide range. Acrylic formulations are considered the safest and most inexpensive. For interior work, they are great because they are environmentally friendly, do not emit toxins, do not contain solvents.

Acrylic adheres quickly to porous wood, and after polymerization can be painted to look like wood. It is also suitable for outdoor work, but is considered less resistant to moisture, ultraviolet radiation than other compounds.

Silicone sealants are also well suited for warm seams. They serve for 20-25 years, strong, elastic and reliable. Acid-based cleaners are inexpensive, while those that are neutral (acid-free) boast better adhesion to building materials.

There are few downsides to silicone. A dried seam cannot be dyed, although there are ready-made tinted mixtures on sale. It is not recommended to add pigments to the composition on your own - this is done only with the help of a special vacuum mixer.

Another type of "warm" sealants is polyurethane compounds. They have the following characteristics:

optimal strength and adhesion to wood;
tolerance to mechanical stress, moisture, the influence of chemicals;
no shrinkage after drying;
suitability for dyeing as the seam polymerizes;
resistance to UV radiation;
excellent elasticity, resistance to deformation.

Most polyurethane sealants contain solvents, so it is best to work with them outside. When choosing a product, you should give preference to the compositions of well-known brands. Examples of good products:

Neomid Wood Professional Plus - acrylic sealant, elastic, tear-resistant, low flow;
BARTONS "Warm House" - silicone composition that does not shrink, contains a high concentration of fungicidal additives;
Perma Chink is a fast setting acrylic caulk that boasts strength and minimal consumption;
Energy-Seal is an acrylic-based agent, suitable for processing seams up to 25 mm, it easily tolerates deformations.

Seam Sealing Instructions

High-quality insulation of a wooden house is possible only with strict adherence to technology, which includes preparation and the main stage for sealing cracks.

Materials and tools

For work, you should buy a sealant in a cartridge or in another form that is well suited for a mounting gun. You also need to prepare:

foamed polyethylene in the form of a cord;
narrow spatula;
paint brush;
water;
rag;
masking tape;
soil on wood;
spray.

Manually applying sealants is also possible, but with the use of a gun, work will become faster and more comfortable. In addition, the mounting gun helps to squeeze out the product in a strictly dosed, even and beautiful strip, while without it it will be difficult to achieve such an effect.

Training

In old buildings, most often there is a rough caulk. It is better to remove it to reduce the risk of mold development, the appearance of insect nests. After the log house, they clean it of dirt, dust, remove the old paint and varnish coating, and in the presence of oil impregnation, the base is polished.

The wood is treated with degreasing compounds, then primed, allowed to dry well. If you ignore the preparatory measures, the sealant will lie unevenly, and its adhesion to the base will decrease.

Further, a special polyethylene cord is laid in the seams between the logs. It is designed to fill the interventional space, since it is expensive and inefficient to completely seal the entire gap with sealant. Too large joints are first caulked with tow, jute, then a polyethylene foam cord is attached with metal staples. Both joint surfaces are pasted over with masking tape so that the sealant layer is even.

Applying a sealant

The agent for creating a warm seam is applied using a mounting (glue) gun. You need to act like this:

cut the tip of the tube at an angle of 45 degrees;
insert the tube into the gun;
Pour the bulk product into cartridges into a special gun designed specifically for such sealants;
press the “trigger”, applying the sealant with an even tape of the desired thickness (the agent layer should capture the logs by 0.5–1 cm on both sides);
spray the seam with water from a spray bottle, then smooth with a spatula and remove excess;
moisten a small brush, finish the joint;
remove stains, streaks with a rag, then remove the masking tape without waiting for the sealant to dry.

Usually, for complete polymerization, the sealing compound needs from 2-4 days to 2 weeks, depending on its type, brand, weather conditions. Only after the end of this period, the seam can be stained.

Material consumption

Sealants are produced in tubes of 300 and 600 ml, as well as in plastic buckets of different sizes. Consumption varies greatly depending on the width, depth of the seam. For example, with a standard seam 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide, 200–250 g of the product will go per 1 running meter.

Drying time

It is necessary to work with sealants using the "warm seam" technology in dry weather at a temperature within + 5 ... + 35 degrees. The optimum humidity for work is 60%, temperature + 20 ... 23 degrees. Under such conditions, the product cures at a rate of 2 mm / day, and the primary film appears after 30-60 minutes. In damp, rainy weather, sealing a wooden house should not be carried out, as well as during snow. This will adversely affect the quality of the resulting seam.

Corners and cuts

The most difficult work on the formation of warm seams concerns the junctions of wooden walls. To seal corners, cuts, put a polyethylene cord of the desired thickness and length into the slots, push it through with a spatula. Usually this process takes a lot of time, is laborious and painstaking. After applying the sealant, level its layer with a wet spatula.

If the corners were previously treated with oil impregnations or flame retardants, you will have to first grind the wood with a grinder, otherwise the sealing compound will not achieve the desired adhesion.

Sealant storage conditions

The agent must be stored at a temperature within +5 ... +30 degrees without access to the sun, protected from moisture. The sealant withstands up to 7 cycles of freezing and thawing (the duration of each is no more than a day, the temperature is not lower than -18 degrees). Before use, the frozen composition is kept at room temperature for at least a day.

Security measures

Most wood sealants are non-flammable, non-explosive and non-toxic. Nevertheless, when working, it is necessary to protect the skin of the hands with gloves, to prevent the product from getting into the eyes, on the mucous membranes. When processing indoor walls, good ventilation should be ensured.

Can I do my own sealing?

The creation of warm seams is performed once for many years, therefore it requires special care and strict adherence to technology. Non-professionals, beginners and those who ignore important rules often make mistakes that lead to a serious decrease in the quality of the finished seam. The most common oversights are:

improper selection of sealant;
work in wet, cold weather;
drawing seams of small thickness;
poor ground preparation;
performing rough, intermittent seams;
poor-quality smoothing of joints.

If the technology is broken at any of its stages, the sealing layer may crack, rupture or swell. This will cause depressurization and the flow of cold air into the wooden house. Also, moisture will penetrate into the cracks, which will provoke rotting of the material and the appearance of mold, fungus.

The conclusion is: if you fully comply with the technology and acquire only high-quality compositions, you can do the work yourself. In the absence of time, skills and desire, it is better to invite professionals to create warm seams. In this case, you do not have to redo the work, which is even more costly and difficult, and the finished seams will serve faithfully for decades.

Before reading this section, please note that we give all questions and answers from the ten years of experience of the work performed by our teams, and not from the experience of Internet resources or the experience of other dubious theorists and practitioners with spoons instead of spatulas!

At what ambient temperature can a house be insulated?

Most acrylic-based sealants are smoothed and corrected with water, the warm joint after your house is completely sealed must dry and adhere, this requires a minimum of a week at a temperature of +20 and up to a month at a temperature of +5. Therefore, if you do not want to fill the seams of your house with a rough mass and spoil the aesthetics of your house, the average daily ambient temperature should not be lower than +5. Unfortunately, there are firms that are ready to heat up the walls of your house in frost in order to seal your house, this technology is doubtful and will add to your hassle with the appearance of additional kilometer-scale cracks throughout the house in the future. For such firms, the activity is based on a commercial component, and not assistance in warming your home.

Is it possible to work in rainy weather?

Under direct raindrops, it is impossible to carry out work on sealing a wooden house. This will flush out the sealant! If it so happened that the rain started after some time, then just cover the wall with a film

Is it possible to work under the scorching sun?

When sealing your house, it is necessary to move in the direction of the sun, because when open sunlight hits a warm seam, as a result of heating the vilatherm and escaping air from it, small bubbles may appear on the seam itself!

When is it possible to seal the house after erecting the walls of a wooden house?

After your house has shrunk, and this is at least 6 months after the walls and roof were erected.

At what stage of finishing work is it necessary to seal the house?

At the earliest stage after grinding, painting and casing, because in order to eliminate all blowing as much as possible, it is necessary to seal under them before installing the hemming and installing the trim!

Surface preparation before applying a warm seam?

The surface must be clean or primed!

In what sequence is a warm seam applied: before paint on bare wood or after paint?

Sealant Acryl 100 Remmers can be applied in any sequence, based on the possibility of your wooden house (painted or sanded). Also, the sequence depends on your preferences for the aesthetics of your house (to highlight or not to highlight a beautiful and correct warm seam). The main thing is that the surface is properly prepared, has a clean or primed surface. Exceptions are compositions of paints intended for application. If these are paints where the base is oil or wax such as Biofa,
Leinos, Osmo, etc. (premium class), then sealant cannot be applied over all layers, this does not apply to such types of paints as Tikurila, Belinka, where 3-5% oil or wax is added to the base. In such cases, the sealant can be applied in any sequence. True, often dubious experts insist on applying a seam to the paint. This is explained by the fact that people paint over poor-quality and incorrectly made warm seam with paint.

What is the Vilaterm cord for?

1) make a correct and even warm seam
2) save sealant consumption
Where and where it is laid depends on the specific shrinkage and shrinkage of your wooden house!

What is the consumption of sealant when sealing a wooden house?

The consumption of sealant when sealing a wooden house depends on the following factors:

1) Type of logs: chopped, rounded, timber, carriage, etc.
2) Types of felling, quality of felling: depth of the groove, cuts, locks, etc.
3) Log diameter
4) Qualification of specialists: correct laying of the Vilaterm cord, correct seam width
Therefore, with the standard observance of All norms and rules with one log diameter of 20 cm, the consumption of German sealant Remmers looks like this:

Chopped = 4 meters (600ml tube)
Rounded = 6 meters (600ml tube)
Beam = 7-8 meters (600ml tube)

What is the thickness of the warm seam?

The thickness of the seam is selected on your house, based on the characteristics of shrinkage, laying and the diameter of the log. On average, it ranges from 1 to 1.5 cm

Do you use tape to even out the warm seam?

All houses sealed by us using the Warm Seam technology are made without a single meter of adhesive tape. The experience of our employees allows us to perform a correct and even seam using a spatula.

What pistol do you use?

All houses sealed by Our employees using the Warm Seam technology that you see in the gallery of Our works are made with mechanical guns that you can purchase on any construction market. This is explained by the fact that according to Remmers technology, after application, it is necessary to smooth and level the Remmers sealant with a spatula, the excess remains on the spatula, which is quite achieved with an ordinary gun, and the speed of squeezing the sealant out of the tube does not play any role here! (that is, we do not pour sealant from the compressor into the seams, which is contrary to technology, because adjustment is required at the sticking points!)

If you remove the caulk before sealing the wooden house, will the house shrink?

We do not completely remove or pierce the old tow that is under the logs and inside the bowls of your house. We cut or stuff with a spatula the tow that prevents us from making the right warm seam, so your house does not undergo additional shrinkage or rise!

How and with what should you paint a wooden house?

In order to properly paint a house, it is necessary to work with brushes with 100% natural bristles so that the paint is rubbed into the log, penetrating into the pores of the log. In the case of painting a wooden house, we should not talk about any compressors and sprayers, because apart from the speed of application, smudges and cheapness, they are of little use when it comes to protecting the tree. It is also necessary to use mobile scaffolding, tours, because transitions from the number of storeys of scaffolding rearrangement, nailed out of time with a delay to a different wall height, can be seen!

Which paint is better transparent or covering for applying to a wooden house?

Covering paint does not let the sun's rays through, respectively, does not burn through like a log lens, therefore, its service life until the next update is several times higher (subject to the surface preparation technology) transparent. Its peculiarity is that it completely hides the structure of your log, so it is less popular at the stage of the first painting.
Transparent paint is more often used for aesthetic reasons and practicality in the future. You can always at the time of updating the paintwork of your wooden house in 5-7 years always paint it in a covering without sanding the log, which cannot be done with a covering. And all these years enjoy the beauty of the structure of your wooden house!

Is it possible to dye a warm seam?

In the Remmers line of sealants, there are always options to apply a sealant with the so-called grain, which, unlike domestic counterparts, will always allow you to paint the seam and there will be no streaks and unpainted places if you use a sealant without grain. Grain-free sealant is more suitable for interior work, because it may not be necessary to renew the surface inside a wooden house for the entire period of residence.

Let's sum up Dear readers, remember a warm seam is not only home insulation, but also its beauty! You need to know what the right warm seam looks like, so if you have employees who make good stairs or build houses or lay professional tiles, this does not mean that they will do no worse sealing your house. Trust only companies that specialize only in sealing houses! This will save you at least one mistake related to the beauty and warmth of your beautiful wooden house!