How to make a concrete mixer at home. Himself a master: how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel - advantages and disadvantages

In the construction business, starting from laying the foundation of a future building, interior decoration and the construction of walls, the key building material is precisely the concrete mixture, and the strength and durability of the buildings being erected directly depend on the quality. As for the definition, concrete is a material obtained from a mixture of cement, water, sand and crushed stone, which tends to turn into a strong stone when solidified, and just from the correct amount component parts and high-quality mixing depends on the hardness and durability of this material. And if the implementation of the first point is fully and completely cocked on the shoulders of the initiator of this construction action, then the last one is mixing, it is better to leave it to a special machine called a concrete mixer. This article explains, among other things, how to make do it yourself concrete mixer if finances or personal preferences do not allow you to purchase this equipment in a store or rent it.

Interesting fact:For the first time, concrete was made in Ancient Mesopotamia many thousands of years ago. It has been in use for three thousand years, having lost its original recipe after the fall of the Roman Empire.

Preliminary preparation.

First of all, before starting to create your own concrete mixer, first estimate the scope of the planned work. If the amount of work is insignificant, for example, strengthening is already existing structures, then think about whether it makes sense to spend your time and effort on creating such a device, or whether it is better to use the good old bucket and mixer drill. Or, on the contrary, if you are planning the construction of a residential building of impressive size, then wouldn't it be better to rent special construction equipment than to spend efforts on creating a homemade alternative.

Useful advice:At the planning stage, decide which concrete composition you need for your construction. Based on this, you can calculate the time required for mixing until it cures. It will be incredibly disappointing if you, having decided to take a well-deserved break, on your return, find a frozen stone in the concrete mixer.

If, after drawing up a plan for the upcoming work, you found it necessary to create a homemade concrete mixing machine, then let's not waste time and get down to work.

Classifications:

First, let's analyze general principle work of concrete mixers in order to more clearly depict the processes taking place inside this mechanism. This will help you decide on the choice of a car, based on your tasks.

There are four ways to mix and then receive concrete mortar:

Mechanical - a method that combines a bucket, mixer and physical strength, which has already been described earlier. In our case, ignored.
Gravitational - a type of mixing in which the solution, as the name suggests, lends itself to gravity, being in a moving container constantly rotates and falls, and at the same time is mixing. This mixing method gives a satisfactory result and is not suitable for the production of large volumes of concrete mix.
Vibrating is a method used in industry because it gives the best results. The most durable structures are made of vibration-mixed concrete. It is based on the principle of vibration of an interfering mixer - a concrete mixture is poured into a container in the center of which a vibrating element is located, after which the mixer creates vibration waves in the thickening mass that stir the solution. The method is effective, but energy-intensive, and building a concrete mixer of this type will take you more time than building a gravitational or mechanical alternative.
Combined - combines elements from the two previous mixing methods. The process of creating a concrete mixer of this classification is even more complicated than a vibration one, since it is the same thing, only in this case the container also moves.

Since many home craftsmen want to create a concrete mixing machine without spending large sums of money, we will consider two options for creating this device - manual, working with the physical strength of its owner, and electric. Both of these options are classified as gravitational.

Useful advice:When creating a manual concrete mixer, consider the amount of work and your own physical capabilities. There will be no use in the car if you do not know how to move it, thereby stirring the solidifying composition.

Concrete mixer with manual drive.

The mixer, used by our distant ancestors, consists of a container of the volume you need, for example iron barrel a volume of one hundred liters, closed on both sides (or a large can), a lever, upon which the barrel would begin to rotate. Also a necessary element is a frame on which the entire structure will be firmly located. Here is an algorithm of actions describing the method of making this mechanism:

First of all, drill out holes, which will house the driving shaft... Be sure to install flanges with bearings to the connection points - this will prevent damage to the container.
Then position the base and cut in a metal container. cover, through which the mixture will be fed inside and ready-made concrete will be poured (if such is not already provided for by the design, as is the case with the can). To do this, a hatch should be cut out in the barrel, and then the folded part should be fixed to iron hinges, similar to those installed on doors and windows. It is not recommended to expand the hatch to the size of a football field, just as it is not necessary to go to extremes, the main thing is not to forget to put a latch or other kind of stopper so that concrete does not spill over the yard while the mechanism rotates.
Place the drive shaft at an angle in thirty degrees and install the entire structure on a durable metal carcass, capable of providing the concrete mixer with immobility and, preferably, for additional reinsurance, dug into the ground.

Remember that you yourself will have to set the movement in motion, so make sure that the shaft is at a suitable height for you and that it is comfortable to rotate. At this stage, the construction of the manual gravity concrete mixer is completed. Now let's move on to creating a more complicated device, however, capable of freeing the owner from the exhausting burdens of physical labor.

Useful advice:When handling the concrete mixer, be sure to wear individual protection and follow safety precautions. Before starting work, make sure that the mechanism is securely fastened and properly prepared for the tasks assigned to it. When operating the concrete mixer by hand, adequately assess the forces so as not to pull the muscles and not to overstrain.

Electric concrete mixer.

In the process of creating an electric gravity concrete mixer, we need electric motor... Extract this device from the old washing machine or other other equipment, the main thing is that it can provide the required rotational speed of the drive shaft, namely, no more than forty-eight revolutions per minute, while not overheating and not destroying other structural elements. Do not forget to equip the motor with drive belts and check the wiring for damage - it will be a shame if, after completing the creation of the concrete mixer, it turns out that the wires in the motor are burned out, and you have to disassemble everything.

In addition to the motor, we need:

Metal container of the required volume.
Driving shaft
Toothed ring placed on the bottom of the container
Bearings and gears
Metal frame capable of supporting the full weight of the movement
Welding machine
Screw mixing blades
Nuts, bolts and other consumables

The principle of creating an electric concrete mixer is similar to the process of building a manual one, but instead of physical strength necessary work will perform a motor connected to the driving shaft using drive belts. Below is the sequence of actions:

Drill holes on both sides of the metal bucket to subsequently connect the drum to the driving shaft.
Install the hatch in the same way as for a manual mixer.
Weld the ring gear to the bottom of the container and attach the gears, thereby creating a mechanism that transfers torque from the motor to the shaft and blades.
Insert a bearing with a large diameter into a piece of pipe, weld it to the container, and then connect the driving shaft to the electric motor, and also do not forget about the helical blades.
Create a support structure strong enough to support the weight of the machine and the concrete that will interfere with it. For more productive work, you should also equip the mechanism with a rotary device.

In conclusion, it should be noted that any raw material suitable for your needs will come down as a metal container, for example gas bottle or rail tank car. Competently approach the concrete production process, take into account the peculiarities of the structures you create, and also do not forget to manually check the quality of the mixture, since any machine can malfunction and cause unnecessary complications, and an inquiring human eye, attentiveness and concentration can turn routine work into an unsurpassed masterpiece. We wish you the best of luck with your home construction and, while working, do not forget to observe safety precautions.

Anyone who at least put a fence on the posts had a question: how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands? It is painfully tedious and tedious to shovel the solution in a bucket or trough. And if you need to form a floor screed, then your hands will not work at all: a "dry", very viscous solution will begin to set before you "poke" it to the desired homogeneity. Buying a factory one, especially if you build it irregularly, is expensive, the equipment is not cheap. Renting will also cost a lot: concrete works an hour or two does not last, and you need to give a deposit in the amount of the full cost of the new one.

Meanwhile, a home-made concrete mixer is not God knows what kind of device it is, and for small jobs, including pouring the foundation of a country house, it can be made independently. The time spent will more than pay off by speeding up the batching and improving the quality of work in general: the next portion of ready-mixed concrete will have time to prepare and will be poured before irreversible changes occur in the previous one, which reduce the strength of the monolith.

Why not with a drill?

Almost everyone has seen at least once how they mix the solution in a bucket with a drill with a mixer attachment. It would seem that this is the solution! He pulled the drill with a mixer with a clamp to the bracket, and - know, change bucket after bucket.

Firstly, the drill is not designed for long-term operation and will not last long in this mode. But this is not the main obstacle. Anyone who has mixed a solution in this way knows that when mixing, the tool must be driven back and forth and in a circle. Otherwise, throwing out the solution, you will see lumps of sand, and this is an unacceptable marriage. Therefore, mechanical forced mixing in a stationary bucket is not used in industrial conditions either - the mechanism for moving the mixer turns out to be complicated, expensive and unreliable.

How concrete mixers work

Since we're talking about mixing methods, it doesn't hurt to figure out how a concrete mixer generally works. And for a complete understanding of what follows, it will also be useful.

There are mainly four methods of mixing cement-sand mortar:

gravitational;
forced mechanical;
forced vibrating;
combined gravitational-mechanical.

With gravity kneading the container with the components of the solution is rolled over, the solution flops onto itself and is mixed at the same time. You cannot knead a large volume like that, the quality of the finished concrete is only satisfactory, therefore this method is not used in industry. But for yourself, you can quickly and simply make a pretty decent gravity concrete mixer, see below.

With vibration kneading the bucket remains stationary, and the mixer-kneader excites compression waves in the mass of the initial mixture, which mix and compact the solution very well. The disadvantage of this method is high energy consumption: a stirrer-vibrator drive of 1.3 kW is required for 20 liters of solution. But the quality of concrete is exceptional, therefore vibro-mixing is used for especially critical structures: dams of hydroelectric power plants, etc. In this case, for the sake of saving energy, the pre-mixed mortar is poured into the formwork and is already "brought" in place with vibrators. But a small vibrating mixer can be made by yourself; further it will be said about this.

Forced mechanical kneading it is not used in its pure form; why - stated above. In the overwhelming majority of cases, mechanical mixing is combined with gravity: a mixer rotates in a horizontal or inclined bucket, or the bucket itself rotates with protrusions inside. It is quite possible to make a concrete mixer of this kind on your own, and much faster and easier than it seems at first glance. Drawings, if necessary, are at your service by the link, and here we will consider the principles of operation and features of various designs.

It couldn't be easier

Take a look at the picture. This is the simplest gravity concrete mixer. Even dry mortar can be kneaded in it on the screed: the axle-pipe will cut the mortar when transferring, so that some forced kneading takes place in this machine. And this piece of work can be further simplified and reduced in price to the point that an average amateur master, who knows the basics of welding, can make one in just one and a half or two hours.

There is no need to make holes in a rather expensive milk can: a leaky boil will do. We weld a fistula or crack, and fix the lid as follows: thread a piece of pipe or just a stick into the handle of the lid and pull it tightly to the tub handles with a rope or thick rubber cord; will go tattered for securing cargo to the upper trunk of the car.

Turned trunnions for attaching the bucket to the axle are also not needed: we just weld the welding, and for aluminum we weld a couple of suitable pieces of metal to the axle - a rod, strips 6-8 mm thick, and fasten the bucket to them with bolts. And without couplings from pieces of pipe, not to mention bearing ones, you can do nothing at all: we cut out U-shaped grooves in the frame racks by welding, the axis will simply lie in them. It will rotate with a creak and twitching, but it will knead properly.

There is only one drawback of such a mixer: it is difficult to rotate, and the kneading lasts from 5 to 15 minutes. depending on the viscosity of the solution. But labor productivity in comparison with a bucket and a shovel increases at least threefold, and the quality of concrete for independent construction such a simple manual concrete mixer gives quite acceptable.

Forced kneading: parts and assemblies

The correct design of the bucket of a homemade concrete mixer

The design described above allows you to quickly and with acceptable quality fill the foundation under country house or a barn. If you are starting a more capital construction, you will need a forced concrete mixer. They are also available for self-production, there are simpler and more complex designs. Let's start with the individual nodes.

Tub

A cylindrical bucket for a mechanical or combination agitator is generally not good. The solution in the corners will not mix properly, or you will have to rotate for a very long time, straining or consuming electricity. An exception is a concrete mixer with a rotating horizontal bucket and comb mixers, described below.

A tub from a barrel, the most accessible, should be rounded at least a little: cut by welding and digested into an "egg" or "pear", as shown in the figure. For small batches of solution, an excellent bucket is obtained from two basins; galvanized or enameled - all the same. If the mixer is used occasionally, plastic ones, fastened along the rim with a metal tape curved with a trough, tightened with a bolt, will also go. The bottom of one of the basins is cut out, and such a bucket can only be tiltable: it is impossible to arrange a side discharge.

The neck of the tilting bucket with top discharge must be reinforced in any case. cross bar; better - two, welded crosswise.

Drive unit

The ring gear used in factory-made mixers is expensive and you can't make it yourself: you need special equipment. For a complete replacement, you need the following parts:

A flywheel from a car engine, an old one from any passenger car will do.
Gear-bending (with which the starter is connected to the flywheel) from the same place.
The wheel hub is from the same car.

How such an assembled drive looks like can be seen in the figure on the right. The axis on which the flywheel and the bucket rotate with it, the main end enters the coupling with a rolling ball bearing No. 208, which is inside the hub.

This is one option; the second is to weld the hub to the flywheel, and bolt to the hub with a bucket behind the bottom. In this case, the bearing clutch is attached to the flywheel, and a second clutch is needed to reinforce the bucket neck. When the bucket is tilted with top unloading, the solution will always get on the bearing of the upper coupling, so this solution is justified only with a horizontal bucket with side unloading and blind bottoms.

If there is a mechanical gearbox with the desired gear ratio, great - just connect it to the axle. For an inclined bucket, a straight reducer is preferable; for horizontal - angular, but here the work of the master is afraid, see for yourself how it will be more convenient for you.

Bucket rotation speed - 30-50 rpm. At a higher speed, the solution will start to spray, and at a lower speed, it will not mix well. To ensure the required speed, the gear train is supplemented with a belt, if necessary, as shown in the same figure.

The motor power is taken at the rate of 20 W / L for an inclined rotating bucket, 15 W / L for a horizontal rotating bucket and 12 W / L for a stationary bucket and a mixer rotating on an axis. The indicated power is the minimum; large, of course, does not hurt. Volume refers to the volume of a normal viscosity solution, not the entire volume of the bucket. That is, if you have a 1.2 kW engine, then only 60 liters of ordinary solution can be loaded into a bucket of 200 liters of a barrel, and 45 liters of dry on a screed. Therefore, when choosing a vessel for a tub, you should not chase the volume, you must first decide on the motor and go from it.

Mixer

The design of the mixer for a home-made mixer does not really matter. Its design is important for large volume industrial mixers. But the location matters.

In home-made mixers, especially with a bucket from a barrel, it is better to weld the mixer to the axis: alternating loads on a thin-walled vessel will not benefit its durability. The exception is in everything, except for the complexity of manufacturing, an excellent comb mixer.

Homemade concrete mixer designs

Simple mechanical

Open type concrete mixer

A simple concrete mixer with forced mechanical stirring is shown in the figure. Its advantage in comparison with the one described above is its larger volume. The drive is not necessarily electrical; it can also be tame. Unloading - lateral inclination of the bucket.

The main drawback common to mixers with a cylindrical bucket: poor mixing at the corners. The second drawback is spraying of the solution at a speed of more than 35 / min. It can be eliminated by welding the trimmed part of the barrel into place after assembling the mixer and cutting a hatch in it.

The duration of mixing a conventional solution is 5 minutes; dry - 12 min.

Video: horizontal mortar mixer from a barrel

Combined horizontal with combs

This stirrer can also be manual or electric. There are two advantages, and they are very significant: high uniformity and, accordingly, the quality of concrete and the speed of mixing. Such a do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel gives concrete of excellent quality, not inferior to the best industrial samples, and the mixing speed is determined not by time, but by the number of revolutions: cranked 3-4 times, and the solution is ready.

There is only one drawback: the complexity of the design. Even a manual one consists of several dozen names of parts. Items, not pieces. The unloading hatch requires special attention during manufacture: card hinges, latches and a seal for it must be very strong and reliable. However, for cases where it is required to perform a significant amount of work in a limited time in places that are not provided with power, this is perhaps an indispensable option. Concrete mixers of this type are commercially available.

Concrete mixer design with tilting bucket

"Real electric"

An electric concrete mixer of the most common design, which is most often copied by amateur craftsmen, does not require special explanations. Its diagram is shown in the figure. Many structures differing in details are described, and detailed drawings are also readily available, therefore we will give only separate explanations:

The bottom and neck of the tub must be reinforced with cross welded strips.
It is better to make the bucket rotating together with the axis: this complicates the frame design, but eliminates the need to seal the shaft in the bottom of the bucket, which is why home-made mixers often do not last long.
The best mixer for such a mixer is the frame type, welded to the shaft.

Video: homemade "electric mixer" for 180 liters

Vibrating

Many home craftsmen, who have a 1-1.3 kW perforator with a manual forced (not requiring the working body to be pressed against the wall) switching on the percussion mechanism, tried to make vibrating concrete mixers, but most often the design turned out to be unsuccessful.

Typical errors are as follows:

Vibrating concrete mixer design

Wrong choice of tub. It must be round, high enough and not very wide: optimal distance from the edges of the vibrator to the walls is approximately equal to its radius.
Flat vibrator. Vibrator out sheet metal will not excite in solution desired system internal waves. The vibrator profile should be at least approximately as shown in the figure. A good vibrator is made from two plates or saucers stacked together; preferably metal.
The vibrator is too big. The vibrator diameter is 15-20 cm / kW. That is, a 1.3 kW preforator will pull the vibrator out of 25 cm plates.Wider, even if it is visible eye twitch, will not "swing" the solution.
Incorrect vibrator position. The vibrator should be located along the bucket axis at a distance of approximately its diameter from the bottom. The level of the solution above the vibrator should also be approximately equal to its diameter.

Subject to these conditions, the quality of the solution is excellent. Control of the duration of the batch - on the surface of the solution. Has ceased to gurgle and stir, the waves have gone - the solution is ready. If the cement or sand is not so hot, it may not come to the waves. In this case, at least 10 minutes.

Conclusion

It is not difficult to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, and the speed of work increases much even with the simplest mixer. And, of course, it is more pleasant to sip a tea from a thermos while kneading than to strain with a shovel. Not a tea or a thermos - it is strongly discouraged: the quality of work falls catastrophically with the most advanced technology.

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For this, various cement mixtures are mainly used, as the most affordable building material today. If the amount of work is small, then prepare cement mortar can construction mixer or in a small bucket, stirring it with a shovel.

But if you need in front of the house and walking paths, build a stone shed or make a fence with concrete base and brick posts, then it is advisable to have on hand a mechanism that will ensure the preparation of a cement or concrete mixture. In we will talk about how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands and what materials are required for this.

Existing types of concrete mixers

The main types of devices for preparing cement mortar or concrete are determined by the mixing method.

He can be:

gravitational, based on a simple overturning of the constituent components of the mixture;
mechanical, which resembles gravity, but additional dissecting elements have been added to the structure to improve mixing;
vibration, in which the mixture is prepared thanks to a vibrator immersed in it;
combined, where two or three mixing methods are used simultaneously.

Each type of concrete mixer has its own positive and negative qualities, which depend on the cost of materials, the complexity of manufacturing and the required level of quality of the concrete solution prepared in them.

Gravity type mechanisms

This is the simplest hand-held concrete mixer with your own hands, requiring a minimum of cost and effort to manufacture. However, the quality of the prepared mixture in such a device can be called no more than satisfactory, and it will not be possible to make large volumes of solution in it.

And yet, with relatively small needs for mortar, given the simplicity and cheapness, such a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is quite widely used when performing construction works on personal plots.

Structurally, its scheme is a horizontally located, closed container with an opening door through which the components are fed.

For more convenient use of the gravity-type concrete mixer, it is installed on a welded support frame.

A metal can or an ordinary steel barrel can be used as a container. After laying the necessary materials through the door, it is tightly closed, and the container begins to rotate with the handle. After mixing, the gravity-type concrete mixer is rotated with the door downward, and the ready-made mortar is poured out through it into a substituted pallet.

Mechanical mixers

Homemade concrete mixer do-it-yourself mechanical type outwardly very similar to gravitational. The main difference lies within her.

These are guide and shearing blades welded to the inner walls of the container. They direct the fall of the overturned layers, dissecting them into separate parts.

In this case, you will dare to get better quality and in a shorter time. The presence of blades changes the very principle of gravitational mixing. Therefore, the working container can be placed not only horizontally, but also at an angle, which makes it possible to more efficiently use the volume of the concrete mixer and makes the work more convenient.

Schematic representation mechanical concrete mixer.

In addition, the working container, installed at an angle to the horizon, no longer requires a closing hermetic lid, and the ready mixture can be dumped through a permanently open opening, turning the working container itself.

Manufacturing of a working container

You can also use a steel barrel as a working container, for inner walls which steel blades should be welded at an angle of 30-35 degrees. The height of the blades should be equal to a quarter of the barrel diameter. It is possible to weld the blades to the rotating shaft passing inside.

A more difficult option would be to make a container of your own design, a kind of homemade product. To do this, you need a piece of steel thin-walled pipe with a wall thickness of 2.5-3.5 mm, a diameter of at least 800 mm and a length of at least a meter.

The base frame is best made of steel shaped pipes.

One side of the pipe is welded with a steel circle. On the other hand, 4-6 triangular segments are cut, which are folded to the middle and welded together. The result is a container that resembles a pear. Blades are welded inside the pear, and in the center, with outside bottom, - a steel axle for the subsequent fastening of the drive pulley.

They are less susceptible to bending than a corner and are relatively light in weight. The frame design should provide for the installation of support wheels on which the container will lie, and a platform for installing the electric motor.

The frame itself should be in two parts:

supporting, on which the entire structure will be supported;
rotary, on which the working container will rest.

Support frame with handle and castors.

The supporting and rotating parts of the frame are connected to each other through short shafts fixed in bearings or bushings.

A transverse handle must be welded to one of the shafts to be able to tilt the rotary part of the frame, and with it the working container, which will lie on the frame, resting on the wheels.

Mechanical concrete mixer drive

The drive for rotating the mixer in devices of this type is extremely rare and only with a small volume of the working vessel. Usually, an electric motor is used for rotation, connected to the mixer through a belt drive.

It is even better to connect the electric drive through a gearbox, but a self-made concrete mixer in this case will be too expensive in terms of the necessary components. In factory designs, you can see the gear train from the engine mounted on the side of the tank, in the place largest diameter but at self-production such a solution is feasible only theoretically.

Vibrating type concrete mixer

Vibration devices are widely used in the industrial preparation of solutions and concrete mixes because they provide best quality final material. They are very simple in design, and then making them with your own hands is quite easy.

During operation, the components begin to actively mix, and water is gradually added until necessary degree the density of the solution. At the end of the process, a hatch opens at the bottom of the container, and the finished mixture falls into the pallet or car body.

Structurally, such a concrete mixer is a fixed container located vertically. In the upper part, the necessary components for the preparation of mortar or concrete are loaded, a certain amount of water is added and a submersible vibrator is lowered into the middle.

If you already have your own submersible vibrator or you have the opportunity to purchase it, then making such a concrete mixer yourself will not be difficult. There are no moving or rotating parts, no need to invent a drive and a pivoting frame structure, but simply install the improved barrel design on the base frame and position the receiving pan underneath.

The main difficulty in operating such a structure is the need to ensure a stable position of the vibrator. In order for the finished mixture to be of high quality, it is necessary to place the vibrator strictly in the center of the volume occupied by the prepared solution, and mix it all at the same time.

On the industrial enterprises for this, a special lowering structure is used, on which the working mechanism is fixed.

If you decide to use a steel barrel as a working container, then, first of all, you need to remove the bottom and lid from it. After that, you need to make a truncated cone from steel sheet, the larger diameter of which should be equal to the diameter of the barrel, and weld the opening gate to the smaller diameter. It can be bought or made from existing corners and a steel plate with a handle - then you will get it for free. Weld the made cone to the barrel, and the working container will be ready.

Now you need to install the container on a support frame, the height of which will ensure the possibility of placing the receiving pallet under the concrete mixer. It is best to install it with a slight slope or feed the solution into it along the receiving chute, and install the pallet itself next to it.

Finally

When deciding to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, you need to understand that for its manufacture you will need to perform a large number welding and locksmith works. You must have these skills or have an assistant who can do it. It would also be nice to have a look on the net. additional photos and video materials, having familiarized themselves with the experience already accumulated by other people.

The work should begin by identifying the materials already available. On the basis of such an audit, it is necessary to make drawings or a sketch diagram of the future device. After that, purchase all the missing materials and tools, and then start manufacturing.

As a rule, construction work is rarely done without the use of concrete. Mixing the solution with your own hands, using only a large container and a shovel, is quite difficult, and with a significant scale of the upcoming work, it is completely inappropriate. It is much more convenient to mix concrete with a concrete mixer. Such a unit can be purchased at any specialized store, but still, many, trying to save money, try to make it on their own. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer is a great opportunity to acquire such a useful device at minimal financial costs. How it can be made will be discussed in today's article.

Popular do-it-yourself concrete mixer designs

Consider several simple options which are the most popular.

Option number 1. Mechanical

You can see the design of this simple mechanical mixing unit in the image below. The main advantage of such a concrete mixer is that it has an impressive volume. As for the drive, in this case it can be either manual or electric. To unload the concrete, the bucket must be tilted to one side.

But there is also a disadvantage, inherent, in principle, to all units with a tub of cylindrical shape - this is poor-quality mixing in the corners. The mixture is also sprayed if the speed is more than 35 revolutions per minute. But you can cope with the second problem if you weld that part of the barrel that was cut off at the end of the assembly back to its place and make a hatch in it.

Note! Such a concrete mixer with its own hands mixes a simple solution for no more than 5 minutes, and a dry one - for 1-12 minutes.

Video - Manual concrete mixer with a cylindrical bucket

Option number 2. Horizontal combined design, which is equipped with combs

This design, as well as the one described above, can also be both manual and electric. The advantages include high homogeneity of mixing, as well as high speed and the quality of this procedure. A similar concrete mixer is made from old barrel, but its quality is not much inferior to the best modern models industrial use. What is characteristic, the speed of mixing is determined by the number of revolutions, and not by time (to prepare the solution, you need to crank only three to four times).

Although there is a minus - it is that the design is quite complex. To make even a manual version, you will need several dozen different elements. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the unloading hatch - all seals, latches with hinges must be of extremely high quality and reliable. Nevertheless, if you have to do a lot of work in record time in a place where there is no electrical power, then such a concrete mixer will even come in handy. Finally, note that similar designs are being manufactured on an industrial scale.

Option number 3. Electrical construction

This is perhaps the most common option, which in most cases is copied by home craftsmen. Therefore, there is no need to explain anything particularly. You can find the diagram in the image below. There are many varieties that have one or another design differences, and finding detailed drawings is not difficult. In a word, we will give only some explanations.

The neck and bottom of the container must be reinforced with crosswise welded strips.
The most suitable in this case is a frame mixer which is welded to the axle.
It is recommended that the container rotate with the axis - this will make the frame structure more complicated, but you will not have to seal the shaft in the bottom (the latter is just one of the reasons for the short operating life of the mixers).

Video - The process of assembling a concrete mixer

Option number 4. Vibrating unit

Quite often, people, having a perforator with a capacity of 1-1.3 kilowatts with a percussion mechanism, which is forcedly turned on, tried to make a vibrating concrete mixer on their own, but in most cases they did not get the desired result.

Let's take a look at common mistakes.

First of all, this is the wrong selection of capacity. The latter should be only round, not too wide, but high.
The vibrator is not positioned correctly. It should be located on the axis of the container, and the distance from it to the bottom should approximately correspond to its radius. Above the vibrator itself, there should be a solution with a height not exceeding its (again) diameter.
A flat vibrator is used. The fact is that if it is made of a sheet of metal, then it will not be able to excite the required system of waves in the concrete. It is important that the profile of the element is at least approximately the same as shown in the image. The best option- a pair of saucers or plates (it is better to give preference to metal ones), which are stacked together.
And the last one is the oversized vibrator. Its diameter should be 15-20 centimeters for each kilowatt of power. Simply put, if the power of the perforator is the same 1.3 kilowatts, then the device will cope with plates with a diameter of 25 centimeters. If the diameter is large, then the concrete mixer with its own hands simply will not be able to "swing" the solution.

If you follow all these requirements, you can get excellent quality concrete.

Video - Making an original concrete mixer

Making a concrete mixer - a step-by-step guide

For the manufacture of the structure described below, first of all, patience will be required, since a lot of work will have to be done. The process consists of several sequential stages, we will consider the features of each of them.

Stage one. Capacity

To make a kneading bucket (also known as a pear), prepare a finished bucket or the materials from which to make it. There are many possible options - a drum from a washing machine, an old can, a barrel. Although if you are pushing towards a future design special requirements, then it is preferable to make a pear with your own hands. Prepare sheet metal (not new) with a thickness of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Then get to work.

Craft 3 or 4 constituent elements future capacity. A pair of truncated cones (this will be the bottom and top), the base (in other words, the most Bottom part), and also the fastening of the cones in the center (in case such is necessary at all).

After that, weld all the elements together to get a pear (it, in accordance with preliminary calculations, has a volume of about 200 liters). In addition, it is desirable that there is a double welded seam at each attachment point. It is worth noting that often craftsmen are advised to fasten metal rivets between a pair of welds to increase reliability, although this moment is not necessary.

Stage two. Body and base

As for the case, it is often made of wood, but if you are serious about durability, then it is better to use metal corner... Give preference to durable material on which there is a minimum of rust (if scrap metal is used), also take care of the design of the most convenient base. The future body must withstand the planned weight with a margin of 20-50 percent, since during vibration and mixing, the load, respectively, will only increase. Moreover, take into account that in addition to the concrete itself weighing 100-200 kilograms, you also need to hold the container itself, and with the necessary additional accessories.

All fasteners are made by welding and auxiliary bolting. At the same time, it is recommended to simultaneously take care of the practicality of the future unit. The concrete mixer can be piled on a frame with wheels for more convenient transportation of the "miracle of technology". You can also take care of a comfortable handle with which the body will move around the construction site.

Stage three. Engine

This stage is rightfully considered the most difficult, since it is rather difficult to calculate what characteristics and parameters the future equipment should have. Therefore, the power should be determined based on what are the requirements for the volume and weight of the mixed concrete, as well as the ability to extract this or that engine. Some use a motor from a washing machine or scooter for these purposes, while others prefer less expensive equipment (for example, a motor from an electric drill or any similar tool).

We also note that both the power and the speed with which the concrete mixer will rotate with its own hands should be taken into account. It is important that it is not very high - say, about 15-20 rpm. There are several ways to adjust the speed - automatic, gears with shafts, homemade device, and also the use of belts.

Stage four. Direct assembly of the concrete mixer

The assembly procedure itself is not complicated and includes several sequential steps. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step one... First you need to make sure that all connections - both the pears and the hulls - are strong enough. Fasteners should be provided in advance, the same applies to the place of connection and installation of the motor.

Step two... After that, you need to install the motor and gearbox on the frame, and then fix all the parts of the rotating mechanism with high quality.

Step three... The next step is to install the container on the axle and base. This should be done so that the pear is at an angle of 35 degrees.

Step four... Now all that remains is to check how the concrete mixer turns on / off, whether the fasteners are secure, how well the rotation occurs. To adjust all parameters, gears or a belt are used.

Note! The procedure described above is more clearly demonstrated in the thematic video below. After looking at it, you will finally understand how to make and run the device described in this article.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

It is worth noting that any of the designs described above can be a good alternative to expensive "store-bought" equipment. Although, of course, in the absence of the required Supplies the cost of such low-cost equipment can increase significantly; although the experience is interesting anyway. In addition, the construction of a concrete mixer can be made cheaper, and the principle of its operation can be simplified. This can be done, for example, by replacing the automatic rotation with the manual one. In this case, instead of dozens of complex parts, you only need bearings, a handle, a lever, as well as a "comb" that will be located inside the pear.

Another option for making a concrete mixer

The construction presented below is very similar to the one described in the previous section, and therefore no detailed explanations are required here. The manufacturing procedure itself can be understood from the step-by-step illustrations provided. We only note that in this example, a ready-made barrel of 200 liters, 250-watt is used. Electrical engine at 1430 rpm, motorcycle wheel, a pair of welded rings. The finished pulley will be welded to the bottom of the tank. You will also need a pair of belts, a channel and 59 tubes for the frame.

Feasibility of the solution

So, we found out that cement mortar is required for almost all construction work. And if for pouring the foundation, for example, it is advisable to use a purchased ready-made mixture, then in the case of work involving the periodic use of relatively small portions of the mixture, it is advisable to rent / buy a concrete mixer (you can use a manual one, but an electric one is better).

Of course, you can use the same trough with a shovel for mixing, but this approach, in addition to laboriousness, has other disadvantages. The quality of concrete in this case will not be high, the mixture will turn out to be heterogeneous, which, in turn, will lead to unnecessary consumption of dry cement and low strength characteristics ready-mixed concrete.

Note! The term "concrete mixer" means whole line special construction mixers (manual / electric), that is, devices designed to obtain a homogeneous cement-containing mixture by mixing ingredients with dissimilar fractions.

As a rule, dry cement is mixed with water, special additives and fillers (the latter can be: sand, expanded clay, screening, crushed stone).

How does a concrete mixer work?

The standard design includes:

bed (it can be both on the chassis and stationary);
kneading working bodies;
the container in which the mixing process takes place;
unloading mechanism;
transmission;
driving unit (it can be, for example, gasoline or electric).

Let's get acquainted with each of the constructive components in more detail.

So, the frame is a structure made of profiles / pipes and is designed to connect all parts of the concrete mixer into one system. If the unit is small, then the bed can be equipped with two / four wheels to make it easier to transport.
The mixing organs often include blades, augers and other parts that act directly on the ingredients of the concrete being mixed.
The container is the element in which all these ingredients are mixed. Its volume and dimensions mainly depend on the performance of the concrete mixer.
Unloading mechanism - as the name suggests, it is designed to extract concrete for further use in construction work. It can also be different.
Finally, a transmission with a propelling unit is needed to convert this or that energy into the movement of the kneading body. As noted earlier, the engine can be electric (most often used) or gasoline.

The main types of concrete mixers

There are several classifications of the aggregate described in the article at once, according to which it is divided according to one or another parameter. So, according to the principle of their action, concrete mixers are of five varieties.

Gravitational. They differ in that the drum for mixing the solution rotates under the influence of gravity. Ideal for making tough and hard concrete.
Forced. A more difficult do-it-yourself concrete mixer to manufacture, where the container does not move, and the blades inside it mix the components of the mixture. Such units are rarely used in private construction.
Periodic. They are characterized by low power, and therefore need frequent stops. But for private construction, this is a perfectly acceptable option.
Gear (better known as girth gear).
Permanent. Such concrete mixers, judging by the name, operate continuously, and therefore are mainly used for large volumes of work.

In addition, according to the type of concrete produced, the equipment can be of two types

mortar mixer;
concrete mixers.

Let's consider each of these options in more detail.

Option number 1. Mortar mixer

Uncomplicated equipment designed for private construction. Designed for mixing components, the size of the fractions of which is more than 2 centimeters. Also, the units can be industrial (if the volume does not exceed 1200 liters) and for private use (over 30 liters).

As a rule, all ingredients are forcibly mixed in mortar mixers, for which a horizontal auger is used, which rotates in an immovable container. If the volume of the unit is more than 100 liters, then it is in mandatory equipped with dispensers. And if the volume of equipment exceeds 250 liters, then, as a rule, it will include the following elements:

engine;
mixing container;
drive unit;
a rotating shaft with blades.

Note! Small mortar mixers with a capacity not exceeding 65 liters are emptied by overturning the drum. If the volume is larger, then a hatch is used for this, which is located at the bottom of the device.

Option number 2. Concrete mixers

They are designed for use with components with a fraction size of no more than 7 centimeters. All units of this type are classified in the same way as described in one of the previous chapters articles.

In addition, according to the specifics of the installation, they can be:

mobile (this includes both concrete mixers with a chassis and units without it);
stationary (often - for industrial purposes, characterized by increased productivity);
automobile.

Note also that, depending on the type of drive and energy source, all concrete mixers are divided into several more varieties.

With manual drive. They are characterized by the fact that they are able to transform the muscular efforts of a person into rotation of the kneading organ. The transmission in most cases is chain toothed or belt. Such concrete mixers are not very common, since their volume is insignificant, and they do not facilitate labor very much.
With a motor drive. A concrete mixer (made by hand, including) of this kind operates on a diesel / gasoline engine.
With pneumatic and hydraulic drive. The mixing organs in this case move due to the transformation of energy compressed air or liquids that are fed under high pressure... Such equipment is exclusively for industrial use, since it needs powerful additional devices.
Electrical. The most popular types of concrete mixers today, not only for industrial, but also for household purposes. The range of such units is quite extensive, and their volume varies from 30 to several thousand liters.

Benefits of using

There are several of them, let us consider each of them in more detail.

Manual units are, in fact, completely autonomous.
But the ring concrete mixer is quite easy to use and, if necessary, to repair.
Equipment with a motor drive is also quite autonomous, since it only needs fuel.

Disadvantages of the application

Have electrical appliances this is the opening of the hatch some time after the cessation of the supply of electricity and, as a result, the discharge of concrete (otherwise it will freeze).
In addition, concrete mixers are, in principle, seasonal. Most of them (especially small units) cannot be used at sub-zero temperatures. As a result, in winter it is necessary to additionally use a steam generator.
Separately, it is worth highlighting the disadvantages of motor-drive devices - this is the high cost of the fuel used, high level noise during operation, as well as the toxicity of the exhaust.
A simple mortar mixer, capable of functioning at a temperature not lower than +2 degrees, does not have equipment that provides heating of the mixture.
The productivity of manual units is rather low, while the complexity of mixing, on the contrary, is high.

As a conclusion

As you can see, the independent manufacture of a concrete mixer is nothing complicated, you can cope with it. And the costs are fully justified, since the speed of any construction work with such equipment will increase significantly. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!

Any site owner wants to equip it as much as possible - to erect the necessary buildings, create level platforms and paths, etc. Often in such cases concrete is required, and its manual preparation takes a lot of time and effort. You can, of course, buy a ready-made unit for these purposes, but considerable funds will be required. DIY concrete mixer allows you to solve such problems(see others for private construction).

A concrete mixer is an installation designed to prepare by stirring evenly the necessary components of the mixture and ensuring the desired consistency of the solution. In practice, four principles of mixing are used:

Gravity way... It is based on the use of the weight of the substances, i.e. gravitational forces. The problem is solved in a rotating container (drum). The components that are at the top fall down onto other substances, due to which they are mixed. The repetition of this procedure is ensured by many revolutions of the drum. The main difference between the gravitational method is rotation of the entire container with the ingredients of the concrete mixture.
Mechanical method... This option is similar to mixer... To stir the mixture, you need rotating blades that descend into it and perform the assigned task. Using mechanical method the working container remains stationary, and the blades rotate inside it.
Vibrating way... It can be realized by shaking the components at a specific frequency. Home craftsmen rarely use this technology. due to the complexity of the installation.
Combined method... It combines a gravitational and mechanical approach. It can be implemented in two ways - independent rotation of the container and the blades located inside it, or rotation of only the container, but with the placement of rigidly fixed blades in it.

Types of concrete mixers and materials used

Any concrete mixer consists of the following main parts:

working capacity;
mixing blades;
drive with transmission;
body (bed);
a mechanism for unloading the solution.

According to the method of setting the torque, 2 types of installations are distinguished - manual and mechanized.

In the first case, the rotation is performed manually, and the transmission increases the rotation speed of the working body. Mechanization is provided using an electric or gasoline engine.

By working vessel designs the following main varieties are distinguished.

Milk can (flask)

From such a container, it is enough to simply make a manual concrete mixer. A pipe is passed through the center of gravity of the can and extends outward from both sides. The pipe must be securely fixed in the walls of the flask, for which it is used cold welding.

This construction is installed on the stand of the bed... On one side, the pipe bends to form a handle, by which the container can be twisted manually. The second pipe outlet is mounted on the frame in a bearing. For such a simple installation, standard flask with a volume of 40 l.

From the barrel

If you use a metal barrel up to 100 l, then manual setting is made similarly to the previous version. When a barrel of volume is applied 200 l, fits good electric drive.

This design requires capacity hermetically close with a lid... A shaft is passed through the bottom and lid of the barrel. When assembled, the container is installed on the rack of the bed so that the axis of rotation is inclined.

A large chain gear or belt pulley is attached to the shaft on the side of the bottom of the barrel. The torque is provided electric motor with a power of 1-1.2 kW... An ingredient window is cut into the bottom closer to the edge. When loading, it is located at the top, and when unloading the solution, it is in the lower position.

Washing machine option

This household appliance suggests itself as the basis of a concrete mixer. Most suitable option-. It is better to replace the activator reservoir with a metal barrel.

A shaft of the same diameter is installed in place of the gearbox. The blades and staples are reinforced on the thread of the machine, which must be well balanced. The drain hole is plugged. This homemade concrete mixer is fine. for preparing small amounts of concrete.

How to do it yourself?

When choosing the design of a homemade concrete mixer, one must proceed from having a home workshop and the necessary equipment... You should take care of such a tool in advance: a welding machine, a grinder, an electric drill, a vice, a hacksaw for metal, a chisel, a set of files, pliers, a screwdriver, a hammer, a sledgehammer, a set of wrenches, an adjustable wrench, metal scissors, a vernier caliper, a metal ruler.

Working capacity

Its volume is selected based on the need. For example, when building a basement, small structures, arranging paths, it is enough to find sealed tank for 40-60 l, and when building a house, you will need a container with volume not less than 100-120 l.

Large containers should be made of metal, and for miniature installations, durable plastic can be used.

For homemade devices any cylindrical, sufficiently strong tanks of the required volume are of interest - metal or plastic barrels, a large saucepan, a tank of a washing machine or heating installations (for example, Ariston), a milk can, etc.

The manufacturing process can be seen on the example of a barrel. The role of mixing elements can be performed by comb formed inside the container... The comb is made of a metal strip, to which they are welded in a row nails 20 cm long in 8-12 cm increments.

Two such details welded along the entire height of the barrels opposite each other. Then, in the center of the bottom and covers are attached on both sides flanges with bearing, after which a hole is drilled and the shaft is threaded. To strengthen the shaft entry point, it is recommended to reinforce the bottom and the cover by welding the cross-shaped rails. The lid is hermetically welded to the barrel body. The loading opening can be made on the bottom or side.

Body and base

The mixer body must withstand significant loads during operation caused by a rotating container with a full solution load. The base of the housing must ensure its stability during operation, despite vibrations and torque.

For this, the width of the support is selected approximately twice as much diameter of the working vessel. The drum is installed on vertical stands, which are reinforced with oblique supports.

For the base it is recommended to use corner of at least 10x10 cm... The tank is installed at a height of at least 110 cm. The lower location makes it difficult to unload the solution. It is better to ensure all connections by welding, but in the absence of a welding machine, it is possible to provide threaded connection using bolts with a diameter of at least 20 mm. For small concrete mixers the body can be made of wood - beams and boards.

Engine

In home-made devices, most often, rotation is provided by an electric motor. power 1-2 kW.

It attaches securely to the base of the frame and is adjustable for alignment.

The transfer of torque to the shaft of the working vessel is carried out using chain or belt transmission.

For this, a gear or pulley of the corresponding diameter is pressed into the working shaft. It is recommended to keep the drum rotation speed within 20-30 rpm... For this, the required gearbox on the engine is used and the diameter of the drive and driven gears (pulley) is selected.

Final assembly

The direct assembly of the concrete mixer is carried out in the following order:

Mounting the enclosure and strengthening the base. If necessary, its weighting is carried out.
Installation and securing working capacity on the vertical posts. Best option- the location of the shaft is inclined.
Installation electric motor and its gearbox on the bed so that the output gear (pulley) coincides with the location of the gear (pulley) on the drum shaft.
Installation and adjustment belt or transmission chain.
Installation electrical network , starting and controlling devices.

Common mistakes when making a mixer

The experience of using homemade concrete mixers by home craftsmen indicates such typical mistakes allowed during manufacture:

Installing old containers in which holes quickly form when exposed to a solution. For the working body, it is necessary to select a high-quality reservoir that is not subject to severe corrosion.
Manufacturing of parts "by eye". During installation, and even worse during operation, inconsistencies will certainly come to light. Everything should be done strictly according to detailed drawings.
The combination of cast iron and steel in the body does not give a reliable weld. As a result, they are destroyed by vibration.
The capacity is selected taking into account that it can only be filled with a solution to 2/3 of its volume. Excessive loading leads to engine failure.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a homemade concrete mixer is in saving money for numerous works using concrete pouring. It allows you to reduce the complexity of the solution preparation, speed up construction, and mechanize labor. Using such a device, you can carry out work without assistants. Do not think that unused concrete will harden in a timely manner and will have to be thrown away.

A home-made concrete mixer also has significant drawbacks. In him there is no way to regulate the mixing process which is reflected in the quality of the concrete. During the construction of a large facility, he will not be able to fully satisfy the need for a solution. The materials used and the handicraft production can only provide a limited capacity for the installation.

Useful videos

Take a look at the homemade concrete mixer at work:

Stirrer from a barrel with a manual drive, see:

How to do it yourself - all stages are detailed:

A detailed story about the self-production of a full-fledged concrete mixer from sheet metal and the engine from the washing machine, look: