How to grow chrysanthemums in pots. Proper care of chrysanthemum in a pot at home. Conditions for growing chrysanthemums

A chrysanthemum can become a decoration of any home flower garden. Having planted a plant at home, you will admire its beauty for a long time. Few people know that indoor chrysanthemum is unpretentious in care. It is enough to know a few important rules about how best to choose seedlings and grow a beautiful autumn flower on the window at home.

Using special tools, you can stop the growth of a flower

Features of room chrysanthemum

This plant, amazing in its beauty, comes from the Middle Kingdom. Among the Eastern peoples, the flower was associated with the Sun, so it is no coincidence that the word "chrysanthemum" means "golden".

Breeders managed to bring out more than 160 varieties. Bush chrysanthemums in pots belong to the genus Compositae. They differ not only in their colors (there are no only blue and purple flowers), but also in the shape of the bush, bud and petals. The plant is rightfully loved by many gardeners who have learned to grow it at home.

The flower is perennial, you can admire its amazing beauty for a long time. Yellow, white, burgundy, lilac or pink chrysanthemum blooms until late autumn:

the plant has a powerful root system;
its leaves are pale green;
inflorescences are arranged on a bush in a circle, forming a ball in shape;
a memorable characteristic smell does not allow confusing this flower.

Potted chrysanthemum is miniature. Flowers are prevented from growing by special preparations that are used for home growing ornamental plants.

Choice of chrysanthemum in a pot

The appearance of a flower always signals its hidden diseases. Dull and dried petals and inflorescences covered with specks are an occasion to think about the health of flowers. Carefully examine the bushes for visible diseases. Rusted leaves, plaque on the stem, cobwebs - all these are signs of various ailments.

Do not place new plants next to other flowers. Let the first time they be in isolation, gradually adapting to the house.

Acquire such types of domestic chrysanthemums as Chinese and Korean. They are distinguished by a small bud size - up to 3 cm - and a rather short stem - 70-80 cm. Sharm and Minimum varieties are also in demand, which are characterized by a variety color shades and the miniature size of the bush is 15-25 cm.

Especially popular with people who collect chrysanthemums in pots are weaving ampel varieties of flowers. These species include the varieties White Cascade and Pink Cascade. These chrysanthemums are chosen for decoration winter gardens and greenhouses.

For growing on the windowsill, the Indian decorative chrysanthemum is ideal. This variety of flowers was bred specifically for indoor breeding. Choose varieties called Snow Elf and Aurora. The Indian chrysanthemum is not suitable for growing in the garden. It is forbidden to plant in open ground.

Features of home cultivation

Chrysanthemum at home does not need special care rules. It will be enough to provide the flower with regular watering, monitor the lighting and do not forget about feeding the flowers. In the summer, seedlings are allowed to be taken outside.

Temperature regime

Growing a flower begins with choosing the right place to place it in the house. It is important that the pot culture is located in the western part of the apartment. The sun can harm the plant, so it's best not to arrange flowers on south-facing windowsills. By placing the plant in the northern part of the house, you will contribute to the slow growth and flowering of seedlings. Most of all, decorative chrysanthemum loves glazed balconies, where there is always good lighting.

Chrysanthemum in a pot does not like heat. The favorite time of the year for the flowering of the plant is autumn, when it is cool and daylight hours are reduced. Gardeners use these factors to achieve repeated flowering. In early spring, to ensure active flowering, the plants are exposed to coolness.

It is optimal if the temperature in the home garden is 21-23 ° C. The room must be ventilated. In summer, it should not let in direct rays. Flowers are not afraid of the cold, so in winter they can easily tolerate low temperatures (up to -8 ° C). The most suitable temperature regime for autumn is 16-18 ° С. This will help prolong the flowering period.

Watering chrysanthemums

Potted culture needs good watering. Remember that with abundant moisture it is necessary to monitor so that the soil does not fester. This plant does not like when water is added to the pan. Observe regular watering (every 3-4 days), otherwise you will encounter the fact that the inflorescences turn yellow and wither.

Do not forget to sometimes humidify the air and spray the flowers with water. room temperature. You can place a container with liquid next to the seedlings or purchase a special humidifier.

Top dressing flowers

Homemade chrysanthemums in pots need a constant supply of minerals and organic matter. Growing a flower includes fertilizing with nitrogen and potash fertilizers, which ensures active growth. Ready mixes for fertilizer can be purchased at any specialized store. Humus, wood ash and compost are suitable for the plant.

During the flowering period, the frequency of fertilization should be increased to 1 time in 10 days. If flower depletion is observed, try adding organics every 3-4 days. For the care of potted chrysanthemum, manure dissolved in water (1:10) is best suited. Wait until the growing season and start feeding the plant with this organic fertilizer. So that the flower does not exude bad smell, take it out to the open balcony.

Failure to follow these rules can lead to the fact that the plant will stop developing, and its leaves will turn yellow and fall off.

Wood ash - natural fertilizer for flowers

Storage of room chrysanthemum in winter

Growing chrysanthemums in a pot involves following a few basic rules.

At the time of flowering, the plant should remain on the balcony, veranda or window. After the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly prepared for wintering. Pruning is carried out very carefully so as not to harm the flower. Withered buds along with the upper part of the leaves are removed. It is recommended to leave no more than 10-12 cm of the stem. The procedure will allow you to save the flower in the cold season until the onset of spring. After this procedure, the plants are cleaned in a dark and cool place. During the winter, the potted chrysanthemum is occasionally watered. With the onset of spring, the flower can be planted in open ground or continue to be grown in a pot on the windowsill. Planting chrysanthemums in the garden begins with the right choice of site. Remember that flowers like well-ventilated, but not sunny places. Fertilize the soil in which you will plant the plant in advance. Do not dig holes deeper than 50-70 cm. Carefully place the seedlings and sprinkle them with earth, remembering to water them abundantly.
In the absence of a cool basement or cellar, it is allowed to leave the flower at home. In this case, pruning is much shorter. Sprouts should not be higher than 5-8 cm. Leaves, buds and obsolete shoots should be carefully removed. To place a flower pot, choose a well-lit place, do not forget to water it once a month.
Caring for chrysanthemums in pots involves placing the plant in the basement for the winter. After pruning the bush, it is abundantly watered and taken to a cool place. In spring, a flower is brought into the house. Shoots after the procedure will appear very quickly.
To grow chrysanthemums, many gardeners plant them in open ground for the winter. After planting, the plants are pruned and securely covered with dry foliage interspersed with peat. Film will help save flowers from frost.

For transplanting, take a larger pot so as not to damage root system

Care during the growing season

In the spring, potted chrysanthemums begin to prepare for flowering in early March. This can be done in several ways.

Transplant the flower into new soil. Prepare the soil mixture. The substrate can be made up by mixing several types of soil. Take the soil from the garden and add sand, organic fertilizers and sod to it. Choose every time big pot. Mature plants are transplanted every 2 years.
Let the plant warm up. In good weather, the chrysanthemum is placed on the windowsill. Regular watering and fertilizing will ensure proper care and growth of flowers.
Planting chrysanthemums in the garden. With the advent of heat, flowers that are 2-3 years old can be safely planted in open ground. During the summer months, the seedlings will grow, and in the fall your garden will be decorated with amazingly beautiful bushes.

One of the most common problems that people who plan to grow indoor chrysanthemums face is a violation of the flowering of the plant. In autumn, a healthy flower should bloom into beautiful buds.

Check the illumination of the flowers. Remember that the most suitable daylight hours for them are 9-10 hours. If your chrysanthemums spend less time in the light, this can affect the formation of inflorescences. Do not forget about the application of mineral fertilizers. For the active formation of buds, use potash and phosphorus top dressing. Check if you are pruning the plant correctly.

Reproduction of room chrysanthemum

There are several ways to transplant chrysanthemums at home.

The division of the bush. Divide the seedlings into several equal parts. From one bush you can get 5-6 seedlings. Prepare small pots with soil in advance and plant flowers in them, carefully covering the roots with earth. The sprouts will start blooming next fall.
Propagate chrysanthemums - prepare cuttings and plant them in the ground. For this, young sprouts should be used, no larger than 8-10 cm in size. Landing is carried out at a distance of 2 cm in the prepared ground on the site. Sprouts must be watered and covered with a film. Wait for the flowers to take root. After that, they can be transplanted into pots. Do not forget to pinch the seedlings - this will help you form a bush of the correct shape.

Diseases of home flowers

Potted chrysanthemum care includes the fight against various diseases. Home flowers suffer from powdery mildew, gray mold and septoria - these are fungal diseases that affect appearance plants.

Reproducing, spores of the fungus affect the stem, leaves and even buds. This leads to the fact that the plant begins to wither, turns yellow, losing its vitality and gradually dries up.

Powdery mildew affects the inflorescences and foliage of chrysanthemums. The disease manifests itself in the form of a whitish coating on the plant. main reason, due to which the disease develops, is a violation of the rules for caring for the plant. Excessive humidity in the house contributes to the development of fungus on flowers. Fungicide solution will help to overcome powdery mildew.

Gray rot leads to the formation of brown spots and a bluish bloom on the foliage. Save chrysanthemums from the rapid development of the fungus will help medicinal product Fundazol. This tool is also used if large rusty spots appear on the plant - this is how septoria manifests itself.

No less often, home flowers are attacked by pests. In case of violation temperature regime in a dry room, a red tick settles, which very quickly entangles flowers and leaves with its web, preventing them from growing and developing normally. Special preparations "Pyrethrum" and "Aktellik" will help to overcome insects.

Conclusion

Chrysanthemum is a wonderful decoration for anyone home garden. This flower is unpretentious in care, and its amazing beauty and pleasant smell will delight you for a very long time. Tips for caring for chrysanthemum at home will help you grow a beautiful and healthy flower. The main thing - do not forget to regularly water and fertilize the plant, monitor the temperature and lighting in the room, especially in the warm season, and properly prune your seedlings in winter. If you follow these rules, you will definitely be able to grow beautiful chrysanthemums in pots.

Chrysanthemums (chrysanthemum indicum), unlike dahlias and gerberas, have a domestic or potted variety adapted to growing at home. Low bushes of indoor flowers are sold in stores, decorate window sills, balconies and garden plots around the world. Such chrysanthemums are especially loved by the Japanese and the British. Flowers are used not only to decorate the site, but also create luxurious bouquets with their help.

About the plant

China is the birthplace of flowers. In the 5th century, Confucius wrote about the elixir of youth from yellow chrysanthemums, which was created by a healer for the imperial court. On October 9 of each year, the plant acquires a special power that can give spiritual energy, youth and clarity of mind. In order for flowers to give health, they must be collected by the hands of people with a pure soul and good thoughts. Usually chrysanthemums are collected by children. In Japan, plants are considered the imperial flower. There is a festival where everyone drinks sake with petals of yellow species.

Many varieties of potted chrysanthemums have been created that are adapted to growing at home on window sills, balconies and loggias. They have a height of no more than 50 cm and are divided into large-flowered (up to 5 cm) and small-flowered (up to 2.5 cm). Chrysanthemums have different shapes and colors. Vases with flowers are convenient because they can be placed around the house or yard. Containers with them are placed along garden paths, on stairs, lawns and flower beds.

The type of indoor chrysanthemums belongs to the Asteraceae family. Cuttings are grown artificially in greenhouses with the use of drugs that slow down their development. Therefore, it is possible to obtain miniature specimens. The method was developed in Japan and does not affect the quality and healing properties colors.

Potted chrysanthemums have their own characteristics:

multi- and annual varieties;
plant leaves are narrow and pointed, light green;
the buds are small, but form lush inflorescences;
the root system does not develop deep into the pot, but horizontally, along the surface of the soil.

Potted chrysanthemums can grow and bloom for many years. A variety of varieties have been bred:

ampelous and cascade;
lush undersized plants - 15 cm and high - up to 70 cm;
large-flowered with a bud diameter up to 5 cm;
small - up to 2.5 cm;
with a spherical shape of the bush.

You can make a mix - a collection of indoor chrysanthemums from varieties with different flowering periods:

early starts from mid-August;
medium - from mid-September (Zembla is popular);
late flowering begins in November-December.

cultivation

Before buying indoor chrysanthemums or cuttings, you must follow a few rules:

carefully examine the plant;
evaluate the density of all parts and the stem;
pay attention to the health of the specimen, the density of its leaves and strength; insects should not crawl on the flower.

Doma chrysanthemum must be placed separately from other plants for 3 quarantine weeks. In a difficult period of adaptation in new (other than the nursery) conditions, the flower is susceptible to diseases. If the soil is of poor quality, then it must be transplanted into another soil.

This requires a pot, drainage (pebbles, polystyrene, expanded clay, coal) and loose nutrient soil. The stalk is planted shallow, since its root system is located on the surface of the soil. After that, it is watered. Care when growing chrysanthemums at home has two phases. This is summer, meaning:

1. Lighting. Chrysanthemums do not like direct sunlight. From them, the buds dry out, so a short sun is preferable. Its brightness and time can be adjusted by curtains and blinds, thereby speeding up or slowing down the flowering of chrysanthemums. Usually they immediately choose a slightly shaded and cool place on the western or eastern side. But not from the north, where flowers can wither from lack of light.
2. Air temperature. Chrysanthemum is an autumn plant. For long and abundant flowering, the air temperature in summer must be maintained no more than + 18 ° C, otherwise the leaves of the plant turn yellow and the buds wither. It is necessary to ventilate the room, as flowers are picky about air quality. Chrysanthemums grown independently in pots are not so capricious to temperature changes.
3. Watering. Flowers prefer moderate moisture, but do not tolerate overdried soil. You can water it with rainwater or add 2 drops of ammonia per 1 liter to it. The frequency of moistening is determined by how dry the soil in the pots is, since the roots of the flowers do not grow deep into, but on the surface of the soil. Chrysanthemums love moist and cool air, so you need to spray the bushes daily, bathe them 2 times a month, or put a humidifier next to them. As the latter, you can use a jar or a bottle of water. Flowers are adapted for growing on a shaded balcony or loggia. It is necessary to cut the dried stems and buds.
4. Top dressing. Fertilize chrysanthemums once every 12 days using organic or mineral materials: during the growth of the bush - with nitrogen content, and before flowering - with potassium and phosphorus. After the buds bloom, top dressing is stopped, leaving only watering.
5. Pinching. When intensive growth of chrysanthemums occurs, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the plant so that it does not stretch out in height, does not become long, crooked, one-sided and unsympathetic. After that, dormant buds awaken, the bush spreads, remaining low. To achieve miniaturization of chrysanthemums, some people buy special remedy to slow down growth. Before flowering, pinching is not carried out. It starts in mid-August and lasts until the end of November.

Plants need to be taken care of in winter. After the chrysanthemums have faded, it is necessary to arrange a “vacation” for them so that they retain their decorative effect, beauty and give buds next spring. Before rest, the bushes are cut to a height of 15 cm, transplanted into fresh soil and kept in containers at an air temperature of about + 8 ° C. For example:

1. On the veranda and loggia, where there is sufficient lighting.
2. On the windowsills of the apartment, choosing the coolest place for this.
3. In a dry basement at home or in a cellar.

Water the plants no more than once a week. Potted chrysanthemums must be transplanted into flowerpots larger than before before wintering. Since the plants are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, for this they use the earth, to which humus, peat and leaf compost are added (soil from rotted leaves of trees collected in heaps for rotting - it is slightly acidic, easily digestible, loose and quickly absorbs moisture).

Reproduction methods

The first method of reproduction is division. One bush of chrysanthemums gives up to 4 shoots. Carefully separating the roots from each other, they are planted in a container with soil of 3-5 pieces. Subject to all the rules, chrysanthemums bloom in spring.

The second way is cuttings. From the bush, you need to cut off shoots 8 cm long, treat them with heteroauxin or Kornevin, plant them to a depth of 1-1.5 cm in a container with loose and nutritious soil. Cover with foil to create a greenhouse effect inside. Several times a month it is necessary to raise it to prevent the appearance of fungus on the cuttings. When they manage to germinate up to 15 cm, the top must definitely be pinched so that a beautiful bush will form later.

You can propagate chrysanthemums and seeds, but this is a laborious process that is used mainly by breeders.

Care after winter

In mid-March, the necessary spring work is carried out. For beginner gardeners, the step-by-step process is as follows:

1. Transplant the plant to a new one nutrient soil. For one undersized potted chrysanthemum, a container with a diameter of 9 cm is suitable. For 3 plants - 11 cm. All 3 cuttings should be planted along the edges of the pot with an outward slope.
2. Put the flower in a sunny place.
3. Start regular watering and fertilizing the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. The first can be done only after 2 weeks. For the rate of growth of green mass, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, and just before flowering - with phosphorus and potassium. To get strong and healthy specimens, stimulants and regulators can be used.

A little later, you need to prune the chrysanthemum so that its shape is beautiful, and pinch fresh shoots so that the plant remains miniature.

Indoor flowers in spring can be planted in open ground. This provides them with rapid growth and abundant flowering. In late autumn, they are carefully dug out without damaging the root system, transplanted into containers with prepared soil and placed in a comfortable place for wintering. Watering is carried out 1 time per week.

If the chrysanthemums did not bloom, this means that the rules for growing and caring for them were not followed. This may be the result:

untimely pruning;
lack of sunlight;
lack of feeding or its excess;
improperly selected soil.

Diseases of potted chrysanthemums:

1. Spider mite. To remove it, you need to wipe all parts of the plant with a sponge, wetting it in a soapy solution. Then you need to rinse the flower under a warm shower.
2. Light ash coating on leaves and buds is powdery mildew, a fungus that appears in a very humid environment. For treatment, spray with a fungicide and put the chrysanthemum in a dry place.
3. Fluffy grayish coating and brownish spots on the leaves - this is gray rot. During treatment, the plant is sprayed with Fundazol, after which the flower is placed in the sun.
4. If brown spots appear on the chrysanthemum with a yellow border on the leaves, this is the activity of the red spider mite. It appears at low humidity. To combat it, use Fundazol. In this case, it is necessary to reduce the frequency of watering.

Indoor flowers decorate any apartment or house, and chrysanthemums also delight with long and beautiful flowering in autumn. These plants can be found not only on the street, but also at home. There are many varieties of chrysanthemums that are grown on the windowsill or balcony. Chrysanthemums differ in types, shape, colors, sizes of the bush and buds, so it is easy to choose them for the interior of the house, according to your preferences and taste.

You should not buy chrysanthemums with blooming flowers. They will bloom quickly. Bushes must be fully formed. The leaves should be green, the lower part of the plant slightly stiff, and the roots strong and strong. The presence of spots, inclusions or mechanical damage suggests that such a chrysanthemum is not worth buying, as it will hurt and may die in the future.

As an indoor flower, the best option is a miniature chrysanthemum, which grows in height from 15 to 70 centimeters. The stems of the plants are smooth or slightly hairy. The leaves are bright, pale green, dissected or serrated, smooth or with villi. The buds can be different, starting with small ones, up to 2.5 centimeters in size, and large ones, which reach 25 centimeters in diameter. Forms of flowering in plants may vary.

Flowers can be non-double, double, blanket and two-row.

Particularly popular for growing at home are spray chrysanthemums with non-double flowers similar in shape to daisies and varieties that form a ball when flowering. For a terrace and a spacious loggia, you can buy cascade-shaped chrysanthemums that are suitable for ampelous gardening.

Variety terry yellow

For the home, mulberry, spherical, shrubby, Korean, Indian, Chinese varieties of chrysanthemums are most often chosen. They have many flowers on a lush bush. The color can be varied: white, yellow, orange, pink, orange, lilac, two-tone or have different shades. The hearts of flowers most often contrast in color with the petals.

Low-growing chrysanthemums in pots are not demanding in care and delight with their flowering for several weeks. With proper care and good lighting flowering can be extended up to 2 months.

Chrysanthemum care includes:

temperature support,
illumination level;
systematic spraying;
regular, sufficient watering.

Lighting, temperature

Flower pots must be placed on the east or west side. On the north side, chrysanthemums do not bloom. And in the south they will begin to wither and get sick. These plants do not like direct sunlight and intense heat. The sun can damage the leaves and cause burns. The best option is a well-lit, cool balcony or loggia.

If the plants do not bloom and begin to disappear, then you need to check if they have enough light. Poor lighting, as well as an excess of light, is detrimental to chrysanthemums.

Light day for chrysanthemums should be at least 7 and not more than 10 hours a day.

For good growth flowers, the best temperature is considered: in summer - + 20-23 degrees, in autumn and spring - + 15-18 degrees, in winter - + 3-8 degrees. At this temperature, many buds form on the bushes. Flowering is lush and long.

Chrysanthemums in pots should be watered frequently. Flowers are watered in the evening, after sunset, twice a week. In winter, watering should be reduced. Watering time can be determined by the drying of the top layer of soil in pots. The earth should not dry out, as this leads to yellowing and leaf fall.

Chrysanthemums love water, but an excess of moisture is also fatal for them.

If the flowers are flooded, then mold and mushrooms appear in the ground, and they will start to hurt.

It is not necessary to pour water into the pan. Watering should be frequent, but not plentiful. Water should be taken warm and settled.

Regular spraying from a spray bottle or a container of water, air humidifiers located near plants help maintain the required level of moisture in the air.

Pruning and shaping the bushes is needed to prolong the flowering stage of chrysanthemums. In order for the plants to bloom profusely and magnificently, their tops need to be pinched twice during the growing season. This procedure is performed before the awakening of new buds (in early March) and before the formation of buds (in mid-August).

All thin, protruding, twisted shoots, yellow leaves are cut off. This creates the correct, rounded shape of the bushes.

If the branches are very long over the winter, then they need to be cut. By autumn, without shaping, chrysanthemum bushes become shapeless, elongated, and flowering is uneven.

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot: video

For strong plants with lush flowers, top dressing is required. Fertilization is carried out after transplanting the bushes. To do this, take a solution of Crystal, Bon Forte or any other fertilizer that has in its composition: nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, zinc and phosphorus. Top dressing contributes to the development of the whole plant and gives abundant flowering.

During the formation of bushes are used nitrogen fertilizers. Before flowering chrysanthemums, phosphorus-potassium compounds are used.

You can use an infusion of bird droppings, diluted in a ratio of 1:30 with water, or an infusion of mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:10. The solution is applied before the formation of buds 1 time in 5 days.

After buying a chrysanthemum, after flowering, it is necessary to transplant into a new pot with drainage holes. It is best to take a ceramic or clay container. The new pot is taken 2 centimeters wider and 1.5 liters deeper than the old one.

Young bushes are subsequently transplanted once a year, adult plants once every 2 years.

The active growth period for chrysanthemums begins in March. In this case, plants can be transplanted into new pots.

Before transplanting, the chrysanthemum must be prepared. The old earth is being replaced by a new one. The composition of the soil should be similar (fertile soil, turf or peat, hardwood, humus, coarse sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1:1).

To disinfect the substrate, it must be poured with boiling water with the addition weak solution potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven for 3 hours at a temperature of 100 degrees. After pouring boiling water, the soil must be thoroughly dried. Shop soil mixture does not need to be processed.

Expanded clay, vermiculite or broken brick is used as drainage, which is placed on the bottom of the pot.

The flower bush is transplanted completely or divided into fragments. From the separated parts, new chrysanthemum bushes are obtained.

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings.

After flowering, seeds appear on the chrysanthemum, which can be used for sowing.

At home, chrysanthemums are rarely grown from seeds; this is a painstaking and long method. This requires seedling pots or a container and greenhouse growing conditions with normal level humidity and temperature conditions.

Seeds are laid out in the prepared soil, covered with a thin layer of coarse sand. After that, the containers are sprayed from the spray gun. warm water, covered with foil and placed in a cool place. The film must be opened from time to time to ventilate and remove the resulting condensate.

After half a month, sprouts appear. Seedlings are installed on the windowsill, and after the appearance of 3-4 leaves, they are transplanted into separate containers. After rooting, the top of the plants is pinched to form a round bush.

This growing process takes a lot of time. Florists prefer simpler growing options, such as breeding by budding (division) and cuttings.

When propagating a bush by budding, after wintering it must be pulled out of the pot, carefully removed with an earthen ball and the roots divided into parts. From one adult bush you can get 5-6 new bushes. Divided plants are planted in separate pots with fertile soil. For young seedlings frequent watering. Chrysanthemums need to be watered every 2-3 days.

The best time to propagate chrysanthemums from cuttings is early spring.

After the appearance of shoots on the overwintered stems, cuttings 12 centimeters long are cut from the side stems. For quick rooting, the lower part is placed in a solution of any growth stimulants, such as Kornevin. The cuttings are planted in the prepared substrate to a depth of 1.5 centimeters.

As a container for growing, you can use a box or plastic cups with holes in the bottom. After planting the cuttings, the containers are covered with a transparent film to create the effect of a greenhouse. Periodically, the film must be slightly opened to ventilate the plants.

As chrysanthemums grow, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 10-13 centimeters. When new leaves appear, pinch off the top, this stimulates the growth of side shoots.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums: video

If chrysanthemums turn yellow and dry, then this indicates improper care for them or the presence of diseases or pests.

When a fluffy, gray coating (gray rot) appears, the plant begins to rot, to eliminate the disease, you need to use Fundazol, Topsin-M, copper oxychloride. After 1.5 weeks, the treatment is repeated.
Yellow and then red spots on the foliage indicate the appearance of septoria, which leads to the death of the plant. This disease can be eliminated with the help of Fundazol, copper oxychloride.
If a gray coating appears on leaves, young stems, buds and flowers, this is a clear sign of powdery mildew. The disease is eliminated with the help of Immunocytophyte, phytosporin, Bordeaux mixture and systemic fungicides.
Rust affects all parts of the plant with spores of the fungus, rounded spots. The leaves turn yellow, the shoots become brittle. To combat the disease, copper oxychloride is used.
Verticillium enters the plant through the root system. The leaves turn yellow, become lethargic, the stems die.
Mosaic leads to the formation of mosaic spots on the foliage.
Ring spot results in the formation of yellowish rings on the foliage. The leaves are reduced in size and deformed.
With the appearance of mottling on the leaves and deformation of flowers on the plant, aspermia can be detected.
Dwarfism provokes a slowdown in growth processes and the accelerated formation of deformed buds.
Bronze-red varieties of chrysanthemums can be damaged by seedlessness. Flowers become yellowish. Reed flowers are deformed.

Fungicides are used to eliminate all of the above ailments. During the treatment period, the plant must be removed from healthy flowers for at least 20 days, and then transplanted into a new pot with a substrate of the same composition.

Chrysanthemums, in addition to diseases, are susceptible to aphids, thrips and red spider mites.

The aphid damages the buds, the upper parts of the shoots, the lower part of the foliage. Damaged areas become discolored, the foliage turns yellow, curls and falls off. Aphids attack flowers all year round. For insect control are used: Fitoverm, Actellik, Derris, Inta-vir, Decis. In case of severe damage to the bushes, the treatment is repeated after 5 days.

Thrips on the lower part of the foliage form numerous colonies, light dots appear on top of the leaves. The upper part becomes grayish-brown with a characteristic silvery sheen. To eliminate the pest are used: Inta-vir, Aktellik, Fitoverm and Decis. In case of severe damage, the treatment is repeated.

On the leaves of plants, you can often see a red spider mite that damages the surface of the leaves. Chrysanthemums damaged by the pest have pale yellow leaves, solid whitish spots appear on their surface. Leaves fall prematurely. To combat the pest, a weak soap solution is used, Aktellik, Fitoverm, Fufan, Derris.

Questions

Chrysanthemum has faded, what to do after flowering?

After flowering, the stems need to be shortened to 10-15 centimeters. The plant is placed on the balcony, in the cellar, pantry or left on the windowsill. In early spring, the chrysanthemum is gradually brought out of dormancy and transplanted into a new container.

Care for a chrysanthemum in a pot after purchase?

Care after purchase consists in transplanting the plant into a new container and further observing the rules of irrigation, lighting and shaping the bushes.

How to take care in winter?

After the end of flowering, the bushes should be cut, leaving 15 centimeters from the length and placed in a dry, place with an air temperature of 5-8 degrees and sufficient illumination.
Watering the bushes winter period reduced to once a month.

If it is not possible to take the plants to a cool place, you can leave them on the windowsills. In this case, flowers must be cut, dry buds, leaves and branches removed.
AT warm conditions watering chrysanthemums does not differ from the growing season.

Chrysanthemums can and should be planted outside if possible. Plant transplantation is carried out from the beginning of March (after warming up the soil) until the end of May. Chrysanthemums are able to withstand short-term frosts down to -3 degrees. Transplanting to the street contributes to the growth of flowers, their strengthening and abundant flowering in the fall.

With the onset of cold weather, plants need to be dug out of the ground, placed in pots and brought into heat. Two weeks after planting, fertilizers are applied to the soil. If there is humus in the ground, top dressing can be done in a month.

What to do if the chrysanthemum does not bloom?

With proper functioning of chrysanthemums, they bloom in autumn. If this does not happen, then this is a clear sign of a violation of plant care. With late pruning, lack of light, poor soil and lack of top dressing, buds on the bush do not form. When these problems are eliminated, the bush begins to grow and further pleases with beautiful flowers.

During the flowering period, one should not forget about the removal of dried foliage and flowers, otherwise the plant may dry out.

Indoor chrysanthemum is able to decorate any window sill, balcony or loggia. A variety of shapes and colors allows you to choose the right variety that will be combined with other plants or stand out from their background. Proper Care guarantees the beauty and originality of flowers.

Flowers chrysanthemums (lat. Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family, or Asteraceae. The genus includes about 30 species, whose representatives grow in zones with a cool and temperate climate, mostly in Asia. In garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for over a thousand years, and the plant came to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemum

Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
Air humidity: recommended morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle.
Top dressing: during the period of active growth, adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When fertilizing with organic solutions in a weak concentration, intervals of 4 days are observed. With the beginning of the formation of buds, feeding is stopped.
rest period: after flowering is complete, cut off the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to produce new shoots.
Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely - seeds.
Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits.
Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, because it is grown by artificially stopping growth with specially designed preparations. Although there have been cases that a garden-sized plant was obtained from an acquired cutting of a home chrysanthemum.

Usually indoor chrysanthemum is undersized varieties chrysanthemum mulberry, or Chinese, which are plentifully flowering bushes height from 15 to 70 cm. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, in addition, varieties of home chrysanthemum differ in the shape of flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.

Chrysanthemum blooms at home usually in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, it should be created for the plant optimal conditions and respect certain rules care.

Chrysanthemum care at home

How to care for chrysanthemums

What conditions of detention does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemum in the apartment? Firstly, you need to set a temperature regime that is comfortable for her, and secondly, observe required level thirdly, to maintain the optimal water balance for the flower.

It is difficult to call a chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in the autumn-spring period - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is under this temperature regime that many buds are tied, and the flowering of chrysanthemums is long and plentiful.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemum in a pot is carried out on the windowsills of windows oriented to the east or west, since flowers on the southern windows can wither from excess sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a dense and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly damp all the time. Caring for a chrysanthemum at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and pan.

In the hot season, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Chrysanthemum transplant

Caring for homemade chrysanthemum in pots involves the annual transplantation of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years.

As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, she does not like it. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be placed in it, and the substrate should be shed with boiling water and dried.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

Caring for home chrysanthemum requires fertilizing the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements, since potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer, in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.

Chrysanthemum also responds well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires mineral fertilizers to be applied to the soil every 10 days, and a mullein solution (1 part of fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum up to the beginning of the formation of buds.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the plant pot in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in the apartment

Reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings

The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is with green non-lignified cuttings. As cuttings, side shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part and then the cuttings are placed in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several times in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, pinch the tops of the cuttings.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensate is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is taken out of the pot, the root system is carefully freed from the soil, washed and the plant is divided with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Sections on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? Korean varieties and hybrids are best propagated by seed. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate fried at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. As a substrate, you can also use store-bought flower ground, which should also be disinfected before planting.

close up seeds perennial varieties it is not necessary, they are only lightly pressed against the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, airing, removing condensate from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as necessary.

Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to take care of them, already as adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing chrysanthemums blooming in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Pests and diseases of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum diseases

In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew is manifested by a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. destroy fungi, disease-causing, treatment of the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skora or other fungicidal preparations.

Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow border that occur on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. A diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Kuproksat, Oksikhoma or copper sulphate. Chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure that it is healthy.

Gray rot, or botrytis, also has a fungal nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the tissues of the plant die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.

Chrysanthemum pests

Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits are dangerous for chrysanthemums.

Aphids, thrips and pennits are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insecticidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on the chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves.

After this article, they usually read

Thanks to active breeding work, many beloved garden flowers migrate to window sills. Today, for example, more and more often you can find a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care for varieties bred for indoor floriculture will require painstaking adherence to all the rules of agricultural technology. But gratitude for the care will be generous and long flowering.

Chrysanthemums are a few, only 29 species, genus of perennial or annual herbaceous plants. Usually they are classified as Aster or Compositae; some varieties are classified as belonging to the related family Tansy. In nature, it is found mainly in the temperate and northern zones of Asia.

In ornamental gardening, chrysanthemum began to be used almost one and a half thousand years ago, in ancient China. From there, it was brought to Japan, where it became a national symbol. This flower is still depicted on coins and some emblems. Chrysanthemum in a pot appeared on the windowsills relatively recently. At home, two species take root, small-flowered chrysanthemum (dendrantema indicum) and large-flowered chrysanthemum (dendrantema morifolium), and their hybrids.

Indoor chrysanthemum is a compact, not higher than 40-50 cm, plant with pubescent erect stems. The leaves are serrated, can be notched or dissected, light or gray-green, arranged alternately. Inflorescence - basket; median flowers are tubular, marginal reed. Marginal flowers can be arranged in one row, then the whole inflorescence seems to be a non-double flower with a convex middle and "petals" diverging from it. In many modern hybrids, marginal flowers are arranged in many rows, which gives the impression of a double inflorescence.

What varieties to choose for growing at home

The best contender for growing indoors are compact hybrid dendranthems. They are grouped according to "maternal" natural species. So, Indian chrysanthemum, low herbaceous plant with jagged grayish-green leaves and chamomile-like inflorescences, became the ancestor of most small-flowered hybrids. They differ in compact, up to 25 cm, bush sizes. Inflorescences are small, yellow, whitish or pinkish. Simple and terry hybrids have been bred; what unites them is the external similarity of inflorescences with daisies.

In industrial floriculture, the "descendants" of Indian dendranthema are called "chrysanthemum mix". Among the popular hybrids, the Morifolium series stands out with semi-double, up to 5 cm in diameter, yellow or reddish inflorescences. The Zembla Mix series is also widely known, which includes plants with white (Zembla White), yellow (Zembla Yellow), whitish-green (Lime) and even fantasy (Zembla Vip) petal color.

The mulberry dendrantema also became the basis for breeding work. It gave rise to a group of hybrids with high, up to 35 cm, slightly branched stems and rich green large (up to 7 cm in length) leaves. Inflorescences are often solitary and large, can reach 25 cm. In flower shops, hybrids of this series are combined under the name "deco chrysanthemum", or large-headed. Pale pink Alenka, snow-white Anabel with elongated marginal flowers stand out among the varieties, which gives the plant an “aster-like” look. The Anastasia series is a success with bronze, bright green, cream, purple, yellow and pinkish flowers. Large-headed chrysanthemums with densely double inflorescences resembling a ball are bred: snow-white Ping pong and golden Paladov.

What to look for when buying

Indoor chrysanthemums are sold when they bloom. Do not choose plants with fully opened or "deaf", even uncolored buds. The former will quickly fade, the latter may dry out without opening. Give preference to bushes with lignified bottom and formed by a uniform crown - this indicates a strong root system. There should be no spots or traces of insects on the leaves and trunk. Try to buy chrysanthemums in autumn. Industrial greenhouses “kick out” flowering bushes all year round, placing them in artificial conditions. Bushes that bloom at "unscheduled" times, in spring or summer, die more often.

After the purchase, even if the chrysanthemum looks healthy, it is quarantined for 7-10 days:

set apart from other plants;
if necessary, carry out preventive treatments with fungicides and insecticides-acaricides.

After quarantine, it is better to transfer the plants to a denser soil: the peat in which they are driven out is of little use for constant growth at home.

How to care for indoor chrysanthemums

Hybrid dendrantems do not require special conditions for growth and flowering. Nevertheless, when caring for indoor chrysanthemums, it is important to strictly follow all the rules of agricultural technology. At good care they can bloom for up to two months.

Lighting

Indoor chrysanthemums need an abundance of diffused sunlight. Lack and excess of lighting are equally destructive. In direct sunlight, they suffer from burns and heat; the stems quickly become bare, the bush loses its attractiveness. On the north side, where there is little light, they cannot be forced to bloom.

In summer, windows of western or eastern orientation, a balcony shaded from direct rays, are suitable for this plant. From September-October, when chrysanthemums bloom and daylight hours shorten, the pots can be moved to the southern windowsills. In winter, when the content is cool, additional lighting is not needed. It is organized only if the plant is out of rhythm and continues to bloom. In this case, so that the bush does not die, daylight supplement with 10-hour artificial illumination.

Temperature and humidity

In summer, potted chrysanthemums are kept at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. They can react to a higher one by dropping leaves. Summer heat is better tolerated outdoors, in the garden or on the balcony. Experienced flower growers recommend transplanting them into open ground at this time of the year: this way the bushes will additionally gain strength for flowering. AT high humidity dendrantems are not needed. In summer, you can spray the air around the bushes to keep them cool.

In autumn, the temperature should not exceed 15-20 degrees, the only way to achieve long and abundant flowering. At higher rates, the buds will fall off without opening. Secret successful cultivation chrysanthemums - cold wintering. After flowering, the bushes are transferred to rooms with a temperature of 0 to 5 degrees. It is during the period of semi-rest, and only in the cold, that they lay flower buds. Most compact hybrids winter in open ground without problems.

How to properly water and fertilize

Chrysanthemums are watered moderately, allowing the top layer of soil to dry out. Excess water from the pallets must be drained. Dendrantems do not tolerate stagnation and excess moisture, their roots are sensitive to rot. The bushes react to the lack of water by shedding leaves. The optimal watering regimen is often, but little by little.

Remember that chrysanthemums are among those plants that are better underfilled than overfilled. This is especially true for the dormant period: with a cold content in winter, it is enough to water the soil once a month.

Home chrysanthemum is "gluttonous" and requires frequent regular feeding. Fertilize with a high nitrogen content every two weeks in the spring. In the summer they are replaced with potassium-phosphorus supplements. In autumn, when the buds begin to fill, fertilizers for flowering plants deposited every week. Otherwise, some of the ovaries will fall off.

Pruning and shaping the bush

In order for your home chrysanthemum to be lush and bloom profusely, it must be formed twice a year. The first time the chrysanthemum is cut in the spring, in early March. The bush is formed so that it has the correct symmetrical shape, and the shoots do not interfere with each other's growth: weak, curved or directed inwards are removed, elongated ones are pinched. Low-growing plants are usually given a spherical shape, tall ones can be grown in the form of a tree.

The second pruning is carried out in August, before budding. By this time, the bush is growing, it is difficult for him to provide food for all the branches and buds. Therefore, dendrantems are thinned out by removing extra or weak shoots and flower stalks - do not spare them, the rest will open better and, in general, flowering will last longer.

Do not forget to remove wilted flowers along with flower stalks so that they do not continue to pick up nutrients. In autumn, before winter holiday, chrysanthemums can be subjected to another, preventive pruning, shortening the central trunk.

Features of care after flowering

Whether a chrysanthemum will delight you every season depends on how you take care of it after flowering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it is pruned, leaving stems of 10-15 cm. soil to dry completely.

If the dendranthem remains on the windowsill, it will begin to sprout new shoots, which, due to lack of light, will be weak and will lay few flower buds. In this case, the plant will need additional lighting. But professional flower growers insist that it is extremely difficult to care for chrysanthemums in pots without a good winter rest.

reproduction

Chrysanthemum can be propagated in three ways: by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings. The first is used by breeders; it is too labor intensive for home use. In addition, most modern dendrantems are hybrids, which means that their offspring will not repeat parental traits.

The division of the bush is the fastest and reliable way breeding. When the chrysanthemum begins to grow after wintering, the bush is removed from the pot and divided with a sharp knife into several parts so that each has its own growing point. Slices are sprinkled with crushed wood or activated carbon. Delenki are planted in separate pots and watered regularly until new shoots appear.

It is better to propagate by cuttings dendranthems during the growing season, in the spring. Cuttings taken in autumn are prone to rotting. Cut off non-lignified shoots 10-12 cm long; you can use the material left after trimming. Seedlings are soaked for several hours in a solution of "Kornevin" or another stimulant, allowed to dry.

The lower leaves are removed. They are planted individually in small containers, for example, disposable plastic cups, deepening the stems by 1.5-2 cm. For rooting, a mixture of sand, peat and sheet soil is used in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Seedlings are placed in greenhouse conditions until the roots appear. It is important to ventilate greenhouses several times a day. Avoid condensation on the film.

Roots appear within a month. After a few more weeks, the tops of the young are pinched to stimulate branching. As they grow, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm.

Transfer

Caring for room chrysanthemum involves regular transplants: for young bushes annually, for adults every few years. Do the process better in early spring at the very beginning of the growing season. The root system of dendrantems tolerates intervention well, so the bushes can be divided during transplantation.

Choosing the right pot and soil

Chrysanthemums are transplanted into wide, low pots. Availability drainage holes necessarily. In order for the plant to feel comfortable, it should be about 5 cm from the trunk to the side. With each transplant, the diameter of the pot is increased by 2 cm. For tall chrysanthemums, a heavy ceramic container is more suitable; undersized can be grown in plastic.

The optimal substrate is considered to be leaf ground, peat and sand in the ratio 4:1:1. When buying soil in specialized stores, make sure that it contains all these components: without sand, the roots will be more susceptible to decay, and without a fertile component, the bush will suffer from a lack of nutrients.

Step by step transplant process

The bush is removed, the root system is partially shaken off the ground, and it is examined for the presence of rotten areas. The latter, upon detection, are cut out with a sharp non-kitchen knife. All sections are necessarily treated with charcoal.

A layer of drainage and soil is placed at the bottom of the new container, watered. A bush is installed on top so that it does not have to be buried. On the sides they fill up the earth, lightly tamping. Water it again so that it settles. After transplantation, it is not necessary to place chrysanthemums in greenhouse conditions.

Growing problems

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums are considered the most dangerous:

Gray rot, which manifests itself in the form of a fluffy coating on the trunk.
Septoria - yellow and red spots on the leaves.
Powdery mildew is a grayish coating on leaves, pedicels and young shoots.
Rust - rounded spots, above which the shoots turn yellow, become brittle.
Verticillosis - fungal disease roots, in which the leaves turn yellow massively, the stems die off.
Mosaic spotting, manifests itself in the form of characteristic spots on the leaves.
Ring spot is manifested by yellowish rings on the leaves.

This is not a complete list of possible fungal diseases. Home chrysanthemums, whose immunity is much weaker than that of their "colleagues" from open ground, get sick with them when waterlogged, malnourished or kept warm in winter. The method of treatment for all is the same - treatment with systemic fungicides, for example, Fundazol. Copper oxychloride helps well; but weaker biological preparations, such as Fitosporin, do not make sense to use.

Before processing, which should be at least 3, be sure to remove all damaged parts. After a course of treatment, you can spray the bushes with Epin or Zircon to increase immunity. Chrysanthemums can be treated with the same preparations several times a year for prevention.

The main pests of dendrantems are aphids, thrips and red spider mites. The first two are easily dealt with with any systemic insecticide. The main thing is to start processing immediately, avoiding mass infection. If thrips are found, all flowers and unopened buds are removed. To fight spider mite using acaricides. For the complete destruction of this pest, 2-3 treatments at weekly intervals will be required. It is important to carefully spray each leaf from below and above; acaricides do not have a systemic effect.

Another common problem is that the chrysanthemum does not bloom or drops buds. This is due to violations of agricultural technology: lack of light or fertilizers, irregular watering. Warm wintering has a greater effect on flowering. With strict observance of all the rules of care, there are no problems with growing dendranthems.

Mila Rozhkova

Color Expert

Ask an expert

At first glance, it seems that it is difficult to grow chrysanthemum at home, but it is not. Having acquired the first bush of chrysanthemum, it is difficult to stop. This plant pleases the eye with bright and abundant flowering in autumn, when colors are so lacking.