The article provides methods for processing leaves. Described how to prepare and where to apply humus.

Autumn leaf fall is a vivid representation of mother nature. The ground is covered with a carpet of leaves of different colors. What to do with them? Can be spread on unused land until spring to prevent weed growth, weathering and soil washout. In the spring, collect them with a rake and transfer them to the compost heap. You can also add a little dry crushed leaves, especially if a lot of green garden and vegetable waste is added to the compost in the fall.

But at the same time, decomposing, the leaves form leaf humus - a very effective means of improving the structure of the soil, an excellent mulch and an acidifier for plants - lovers of sour soil. How not to take advantage of such a wonderful opportunity and not prepare your own leaf humus!

LEAF MUSHROOM - NOT FERTILIZER

Leaf humus contains almost no nutrients, so it cannot replace fertilizers like compost. Its advantage is to improve the soil's ability to retain moisture. Humus is a favorite habitat for earthworms, great helpers of the gardener. Even semi-finished, it can do you well.

PICKING THE LEAVES

You need to start by collecting fallen leaves. On large lawns, you can use a lawn mower, if available, to collect leaves, with the blades set to their highest cutting height. In this case, the leaves are crushed and collected in one place, saving the owner time and physical effort. Shredded leaves decompose much faster and turn into humus.

You can also do this - collect the leaves from the lawn with a lawn mower with the basket for collecting grass removed. The shredded leaves will fall to the ground and soon be devoured by worms, improving the soil on your lawn.

LEAVES LEAVES ROSNE

What leaves are best used for leaf humus - gardeners often ask themselves a question.

You can use any, remembering that the decomposition time of leaves of different breeds is different. The leaves of most deciduous trees (birch, maple, hawthorn, mountain ash, hornbeam, hazel and others) decompose quickly (in a year), subject to the right conditions, oak and poplar for a longer time. Decomposition of evergreen leaves and needles can take 2-3 years, these leaves especially need to be chopped.

PREPARING THE MUSHROOM

Cooking humus (leafy soil) is different from composting. Fungi, bacteria that actually decompose leaves and turn them into humus, require almost no oxygen. This is one of the significant differences from the production of garden compost. Therefore, they use special designs for leaves (four wooden pegs covered with a metal mesh), measuring 1 × 1 m. The collected leaves are tightly packed and tamped. If there is no such design, you can put the leaves in a large plastic container or in dense plastic bags for garden waste, filling them with leaves, pierce them in several places, twist the top without tying them into a tight knot.

The main requirement for the production of leaf humus is the mandatory content of laid leaves in a wet state. Autumn rains are good helpers, keeping the leaf structure open at the top. You can pour water into a plastic container from a bucket or directly from a hose without fear of waterlogging. The addition of green herb also helps speed up the process.

Now all that remains is to be patient and wait.

APPLICATION OF BREAKTHROUGH

Young, not completely rotted leaf humus is ready in 0.5-2 years, depending on the quality of the bookmark and tree species. In young humus, in addition to dark soil, leaf skeletons are clearly visible, sometimes whole leaves and small sticks come across. It can be added to compost, in soil for outdoor planting or in containers, dripped under plants, used as mulch, to level lawn depressions.

Leafy ground (leafy humus)

IP Popov, "Growing early vegetables"
Gorky publishing house, 1953
Published with some abbreviations.

In vegetable growing, leafy soil is not used so often. It is used in a mixture with other lands, mainly for loosening heavy sod soils. Most often, leafy soil is used in ornamental gardening, especially when sowing small seeds of flowering plants. It turns out leafy humus from the decomposition of leaves of deciduous trees and shrubs. When harvesting leafy soil, one must take into account the fact that the leaves decompose rather slowly. On average, good leafy soil is obtained only after 2-3 years. Leafy soil should be harvested in those farms where there is a forest, forest plantations, parks nearby, since collecting a large number of leaves is a rather laborious work.
To prepare leafy soil in the fall, after leaf fall, or early in the spring, while the grass has not yet grown, they rake the leaves together with thin twigs with an iron rake. The collected leaves are dumped into a hole 60-70 cm deep. The leaves are covered with a thin 10-15 cm layer of loose soil on top in order to somewhat compact the leaves and protect them from being blown out by the wind and evaporating water. It is better to arrange a pit in a shady place. During the summer, the leaves in the pit are shoveled, watered with slurry. After two or three years, a very light dark-colored mass is obtained - “earth.” A cubic meter of sheet earth weighs only 600-700 kg.
To get leafy soil in a shorter period of time, the leaves collected in the fall need to be dumped for temporary storage in one of the corners of the greenhouse area, covered with a thin layer of soil so that they are not dispelled by the winds, and left in this form until spring. When shelving and thinning vegetable plants, a large amount of plant matter accumulates. All this green juicy mass is taken to the area set aside for greenhouses and piled into long heaps-stacks 2-2.5 m wide and 2 m high.
Laying is carried out in a specific order. A collected sheet 20-25 cm thick is laid on the bottom, a layer of weeds of the same thickness is placed on top of the sheet; then a layer of leaves is laid again, and so on. The pile ends with a layer of weeds, sprinkled on top with a thin layer of soil. Under the influence of high temperature and humidity, the entire mass quickly decomposes, begins to settle strongly and, before the onset of frost, turns into a solid fat mass. In the spring of next year and over the summer, they shovel a bunch 2-3 times. By the fall, the leafy land is completely ready for use.
In the absence of pre-prepared leafy land, you can use forest floor. To do this, in the spring, rake off the undecomposed leaf and twigs with a rake and, having removed the top 5-6-centimeter layer, pass it through a screen. Such leafy land is obtained quickly, but it is of little value, since most of the nutrients are leached from it and it is not devoid of pests and pathogens.

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In ornamental gardening, specially prepared garden lands are used. All of them are a product of decomposition of turf, leaves, manure, heather, peat, contain a large amount of humus, but depending on the original substrate have different physical and chemical properties.

On farms, the following main lands are usually harvested: turf, leaf, humus (manure), compost, peat.

Sod land is harvested in meadows and pastures, preferably on old, fallow, perennial, with a good grass-clover grass stand. It cannot be harvested in areas with low and high acidity.

Sod land is divided into heavy - with a large amount of clay, medium - with equal proportions of clay and sand, and light - with a predominance of sand.

They start harvesting land from the end of June. By this time, the grass stand reaches its maximum development, and by winter the harvested sod with proper care will have time to partially decompose. The layers are cut (with a shovel, disk, plow) 20-30 cm wide, 8-10 cm thick, depending on the thickness of the sod layer. The length is arbitrary. The sod is stacked in piles with a width and height of 1.2-1.5 m of arbitrary length so that the grass cover of each second layer falls on the grass cover of the first layer. Double layers are moistened with a solution of mullein or slurry in order to accelerate the decomposition of the turf and enrich it with nitrogen (at the rate of 0.2-0.5 m 3 of manure or slurry per 1 m 3). To reduce acidity, add 2-3 kg of lime per 1 m 3 of land. The stacks from above are periodically moistened with slurry, and so that it does not drain (as well as rainwater), a trough-shaped depression is made at the top of the stack.

The best turf land is obtained after two seasons. Over the next summer, the stack is shoveled at least twice. In the fall, having passed the ground through a roar, they remove it indoors and use it in work. Left in the open air, it loses its qualities - nutritional value, porosity, elasticity, etc.

Sod land- basic in floriculture, it is quite porous, rich in basic nutrients that act for many years. It is used for growing indoor and greenhouse perennial plants and in most land mixtures.

Leafy soil is harvested in the fall in deciduous areas (forests, groves, parks). The best are the leaves of linden, maple, fruit plants. Oak and willow leaves contain a lot of tannins, so they are not used for harvesting land. In some cases, forest litter is used to obtain leafy land, removing the upper 2-5 cm layer. Collected dry leaves or forest litter with remnants of grass, small twigs, etc. are stacked in stacks with a width and height of -1.2-1.5 m of arbitrary length. In autumn, when laying, the leaves are moistened with slurry or mullein solution and compacted; Otherwise, they will decompose slowly. During the next summer, it is advisable to moisten the leaf mass with slurry 2-3 times and shovel it. Add a little lime well before mixing. By the fall of the second year, the leaves are completely overheated and turn into leafy ground. Before use, it is passed through a screen to separate undecomposed residues.

Leaf land- light, loose, but contains less nutrients than turf. It can be used as a good cultivator for heavy sod land.

Leafy soil mixed with peat soil and sand can be used as a substitute for heather soil,

Humus earth (humus-manure). Indoors, this land is often called greenhouse land, as it is formed from rotted manure mixed with old greenhouse soil.

Domestic animal manure, which has been placed in greenhouses as biofuel since spring, turns into humus by autumn. From cattle manure, humus turns out to be heavy, from horse and sheep manure - lighter.

Humus cleaned out of the greenhouse in the fall is piled up, as indicated above for sod and other lands, moistened and shoveled 1-2 times during the next summer. Keep outdoors for one year. After that, the humus earth is passed through a shallow screen and stored indoors.

Greenhouse humus is often used as fertilizer outdoors.

Humus earth- light, loose, oily, that is, it is very rich in nutrients with a predominance of nitrogen in a form easily assimilable for plants. It is used as a highly active component for earth mixes. Used for most pot crops and seedlings.

Peat land is harvested, as a rule, that of low-lying peat bogs. In some cases, briquettes and peat chips can be used for its preparation. Well-decomposed peat is stacked in stacks up to 60-80 cm high. When stacking, layers of peat are moistened with slurry every 20-25 cm and sprinkled with lime at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m 3 of peat. When using high-moor peat, the dose of lime is increased. At the end of the first harvesting season and in the middle of the second, the mixture is shoveled and used in the third year. By this time, the biological activity of peat increases and its acidity decreases.

Peat land- soft, loose, very moisture-absorbing, consists of slowly. decomposing organic residues and in its pure form is poorly nutritious. It is used for various soil mixtures as a ripper, especially with sod soil, as it improves its physical properties, making it looser and lighter. It is also used in a mixture with light sandy soils, improving their cohesion and moisture capacity, as well as for mulching.

When harvesting sod from peat meadows, you can prepare sod-peat land used for the manufacture of peat pots, mulching the soil and planting some plants. ...

Compost soil is prepared by composting in piles, heaps, pits of various plant and animal residues, garbage, weeds, greenhouse and household waste. As the residues accumulate, they are poured over for disinfection and better decomposition with lime, moistened with slurry and covered with peat or peat crumb on top. In the second or third year, the compost mass is shovel 2-3 times per Season, moistened with slurry. By the end of the third year, the compost soil is ready for use.

The quality and physical properties of the compost soil are very diverse and depend on the type of waste and the nature of the composting material.

Basically, compost lands in terms of nutrient content occupy an intermediate position between sod and humus. They are used in a mixture with sod and peat lands, replacing humus.

Heather land at present it is losing its significance and is being replaced by a mixture consisting of 2 parts of leaf, 3-4 parts of peat land and 1 part of sand. Heather soil is prepared as a leaf.

Garden and garden land, or the arable layer well-enriched with humus, is harvested and stacked in stacks in the fall, adding lime, phosphorus and potassium. They shovel twice in the summer. No soil is taken from the plots where plants belonging to the Cabbage (cabbage) and Solanaceous (tomato) families have been grown for the last three years.

Good garden or garden soil with a small amount of sand can be successfully used for growing ornamental plants.

Woody ground prepared from stumps, roots, dead wood, branches, chips, rotten old trees, etc. The decomposed wood residues form a light, similar in composition to leaf, but poor in nutrients and prone to acidification. It is used in the culture of orchids, ferns and bromeliads.

Compostable bark substrates. The crushed bark is composted in stacks up to 3 m high, adding sludge from the settling tanks of cellulose factories and other organic material, which ensures the decomposition of the bark with the help of microorganisms. Biochemical and microbiological processes during composting are most active in a substrate with a particle size of 1-7 mm and the addition of urea to less than 1% of dry bark mass (4.3 kg per 1 m 3) during the first few weeks. Composting with constant shoveling lasts about 4-4.5 weeks in summer and 16-18 weeks in winter. The temperature in the stacks rises to 65-70 ° C.

Compost in 1 m 3 contains about 300 g of potassium, 60 g of phosphorus, 30 g of magnesium, 30 g of iron, 20 g of manganese, copper and other trace elements. It is mixed with sphagnum peat, adding 1 kg of phosphorus, in other cases - sand, clay, etc., that is, it is used as a soil conditioner.

When grown on the same substrate of bark and sawdust, plant growth stops and chlorosis appears due to a lack of nitrogen.

Moss. White sphagnum marsh moss is harvested in sphagnum moss bogs. After drying, grinding and sifting, it is used in earthen mixtures to give them lightness, friability and hygroscopicity, i.e., increased moisture capacity. In its pure form, it is used for forcing lilies of the valley, to cover an earthen clod of orchids and other plants. Recommended as a substrate for stratification and germination of large seeds (palm, banana).

Charcoal in the form of small pieces in a small amount are added to earthy mixtures for plants that do not react well to waterlogging. Coal adsorbs excess water, and when it is lacking, it gives away "In addition, it is used as an antiseptic agent in the form of a powder for dusting cuts on dahlia root tubers, gladiolus corms, cannes rhizomes, etc. It adsorbs herbicides and other chemicals from the soil to a small extent.

Sand... Coarse river sand is considered the best. Sea sand is thoroughly washed beforehand, freeing it from salts. Unsuitable quarry sand - fine, reddish, containing ferrous compounds of iron and oxides of other metals, harmful to plants, as well as clay and silty particles.

Sand is usually added to earthen mixtures without pretreatment in an amount of 1/5 of the total volume to make them friable. When grafting and for dusting seeds in seed boxes, bowls, greenhouses, the sand is thoroughly washed with clean water from clay, silty particles. For hard-to-root rocks, quartz sand is used. It gives looseness and porosity to earthen mixtures, which ensures the penetration of water and air to the roots of plants, prevents the development of moss, fungi and algae in boxes, bowls and on racks with crops and cuttings.

Storing and mixing lands... Typically, flower farms create a two-three-year stock of garden land, which is stored in a closed, preferably frost-free room. Beforehand, the earth must be passed through a roar. For each type of land, special chests are made, sometimes they are arranged under the shelves in greenhouses. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that moisture does not get into the lari while watering the plants.

For the correct cultivation of various flowering plants on the farm, it is necessary to have all the above lands. They must be free from pests and diseases.

When compiling earthen mixtures, the biological characteristics of plants, their age, culture conditions, as well as the reaction (pH) of the soil solution, at which a given plant can grow, are taken into account.

Leafy ground made of fallen leaves
Leafy land - this concept is often met by a gardener when reading popular agricultural literature.
What is it?
For the uninitiated, we give a description from the reference book. "Leafy soil is highly fertile, loose and light soil." As you can see, the characteristic is very high. There is such land in the forest. And it is prepared there in a natural way. We, gardeners, gardeners and especially flower growers need to prepare it ourselves. The basis is leaf litter. During autumn leaf fall, we collect and harvest fallen leaves. We accumulate and cover them in metal or plastic 200-liter barrels. You should refrain from harvesting oak leaves. They contain a lot of tannins and decompose slowly. If there is such an opportunity, then we do not harvest both maple and aspen leaves - there are also problems with composting associated with decomposition and mineralization. Linden and birch leaves come first, then already the rest. If in principle, then pine and spruce needles are also suitable. It all depends on the composting method and the season (summer, early autumn). The winter period is no longer here - after all, the temperature in the compost box must be at least 6 ° C. At temperatures below this limit, microorganisms do not live, and therefore do not decompose what is laid in. We put the leaves in heaps in layers, sprinkling with fertile soil. Can be sandwiched with cut grass.
Agronomists recommend adding lime (0.5-1 kg of lime for each cubic meter of leaves). In dry weather, the leaf pile must be watered. In 2-3 years, these heaps must be shoveled several times. This is the optimal time for the readiness of leafy land. Proactive and experienced gardeners have contributed their proven methods to these recommendations. The main such method is that the leaf pile does not need to be shoveled. In my practice, I also adhere to the methods of experienced gardeners, taking into account the fact that in nature, forest leaf litter (and these are, in fact, also leaf heaps) no one shovels, but leaf loose fertile soil (humus) is obtained. True, there are fungi, mushrooms (including edible ones), vole mice, some forest animals (wild boars, moose, etc.) are busy with the decomposition of leaves, but this does not change the essence of the matter. We use our own in our ways. For example, we add urea, manure, garden soil (soil) for seeding. Of the microflora, microorganisms play the main role in the decomposition of organic substances. But they do not "run" over the entire compost heap, but are and act in separate layers of this heap. Why throw them from top to bottom, there is almost no oxygen, and for them it is very bad and they will die.
Shoveling is necessary, but within reasonable limits. We harvest leaves (from the forest, of course) not only for the preparation of leafy soil, but also as a forest natural insulation for our crops, protecting them from frost and changes in outside air temperatures. And also as an excellent mulching material for beds and tree-trunk circles of fruit trees and berry bushes. For example, it is good to sprinkle the beds with the planted winter garlic leaves with a layer of 8-10 cm and cover them with spruce branches so that they are not blown away by the wind and washed away by precipitation. In the spring, we remove this leaf cover and carry it to the compost - a good loosening component and in the compost heap (compost bin).
If we talk about garden strawberries, and about raspberries with their almost superficial roots, roots, then leaf litter is also used here as a reliable savior of the roots of these crops with little snow or abundant snow melting.
It must be said that from my experience of working with strawberries on a small-sized garden plot, I can repeat that the best covering material for it, in addition to snow cover, of course, is a 15-20 cm layer of mulch made of dry leaves of forest litter, covered with spruce branches (better Total). But if it is not, then with reeds, Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower, so that the leaves are not blown away by the wind. In addition, such an agricultural practice contributes to better snow retention, in conditions of little snow winter.
What to do next (already in the spring) with this leaf mulch is left to the discretion of the gardener himself - to add it to the compost, as noted above, or it can be embedded in the soil or used to prepare leaf compost.
And in conclusion, about the very harvesting of fallen leaves during the massive fall of leaves. Here you have to be careful and observant. Do not take everything in a row, but watch out so that leaves with signs of diseases, mold, and pests hiding in them for the winter are not caught. As for the leaves that have fallen from plants cultivated in your garden or in close proximity to it, these leaves should not be harvested and used for gardening in order to protect your green pets from pests and diseases of the garden, flower garden, greenhouses, etc. greenhouses. Remember to keep the harvested leaves dry and healthy.
I. Krivega
Newspaper "SADOVOD" No. 42, 2009

In the decorative cultivation of plants, specially prepared soil is used. This soil is a material after the decomposition of foliage, turf, wood, humus, moss, peat, contains a lot of humus, but taking into account the raw material, it has different chemical and physical characteristics.

As a rule, the following lands are prepared in horticulture:

• sheet;
• peat;
• sod;
• compost;
• humus.

Description and characteristics of sod land

Sod land is prepared on pastures, it is advisable to use a long-term, fallow, old grass stand for this. It is not necessary to prepare it on the sites. with low or high acidity... In this case, the sod land is divided into:

• light - with a large volume of sand;
• middle - with equal parts of sand and sand;
• heavy - with a large amount of clay.

Preparations begin in early July. By this time, the herbage has already reached its full development, and the prepared sod with the necessary care can decompose by frost. The layers are cut to a size of 25-35 cm, with a layer of 9-12 cm, taking into account the density of the sod land. The length is chosen at personal discretion.

The sod is folded in stacks 1.4-1.4 meters of any length so that the grass cover of any subsequent layer fits over the grass cover of the lower layer. Sandwiches are treated with a liquid mullein mixture to speed up decomposition and to saturate the soil with nitrogen. To reduce acidity, add several kilograms of lime per cubic meter. earthen mixture. From time to time, the stacks are watered with manure, and so that it does not drain, a trough-shaped depression must be organized on top of the stack.

High-quality sod land will be available only after two years. Over the next summer season, the stack must be overpaid at least several times. In autumn, the land is removed to the utility room and used for work. Located on the street, it loses its properties - nutritional value, elasticity, etc.

Sod land is the most important in horticulture, it is quite porous, enriched with all the nutrients that last for many years. It is used for growing greenhouse and indoor flowers, as well as for all kinds of ground substances.

Other types of earthen mixtures

Leaf land

It is prepared in the autumn in deciduous plantations. The best are the leaves of acacia, maple, linden, fruit trees. Willow and oak foliage it contains a large number of tanning elements, therefore they are not used for preparation.

Sometimes forest flooring is used for harvesting, removing the top layer 3-4 cm. The collected dried foliage or forest flooring with pieces of small branches, grass, etc. transferred to stacks of 1.2-1.2 meters of any length. During laying, they are watered with a mixture of mullein or liquid manure and rammed, otherwise the leaves do not decompose well. During the next summer season, this mass is necessary water several times liquid manure and shovel thoroughly. You can add a little lime before mixing. By the next fall, the leaves rot and transform into leafy soil.

Humus land mixture

In greenhouse conditions, this land is also called a greenhouse, since it is made from rotted manure with soil in a greenhouse. Animal dung, laid in greenhouses from spring in the role of biological fuel, becomes humus by autumn.

• Light humus is obtained from the manure of sheep and horses;
• From cow dung - heavy.

The humus removed from the greenhouse in the fall is laid in stacks, just like for sod land, moistened and over the next summer season, shoveled several times. The stacks are on the street for one year. Then their humus is stored in a utility room.

Peat land mix

Most often her prepared from peat bogs... Sometimes peat chips or briquettes are used for its preparation. Already decomposed peat is piled up. During laying, layers after 22-27 cm are watered with liquid manure. At the end of the first season and in the middle of the second, the peat is shoveled and for 3 years it is ready for use.

Peat soil is quite hygroscopic, loose, elastic. It is used for various earthy substances as a baking powder, most often with sod soil, since this increases its physical characteristics, making it lighter and loosened.

Compost ground mix

It is harvested by composting in stacks, pits of various animals and organic residues, weeds, and household waste. As the residues accumulate, they are transferred for disinfection, watered with slurry and sprinkled with peat. The next season, the compost heap is shoveled several times, moistening with slurry... At the end of the third season, the compost is ready for use. Its properties and quality are quite varied and will depend on the type of household waste and the properties of the compostable raw materials.

As a rule, compost stacks in terms of the amount of nutrients are in an intermediate state between leaf and turf.

Heather land mix

Today it has lost its meaning and instead, a substance is used, which consists of three parts of peat, two parts of leaf compost and part of sand. It is prepared in the same way as compost.

They begin to prepare it and stack it in stacks in the fall, mixing with potassium, manganese, phosphorus and lime. In the summer, they shovel twice. From an area that has been home to plants that are solanaceous and cabbage varieties over the past few years, soil is not collected.

A high-quality garden soil mixture with a small addition of sand can be successfully used for cultivated indoor flowers.

Woody ground mix

It is prepared from roots, logs, chips, dead wood, rotten trees, etc. The decomposed wood residues create a light, similar in composition to leafy, but poor in useful elements and acidic soil. It is used for growing bromeliads, daffodils and orchids.

Compostable bark substance

The ground bark is stacked, mixed with sludge from the settling tanks of pulp mills, this creates decomposition of the bark due to various microelements. Biological and chemical processes during composting take place more intensively in a substance with a bark size of 2-6 mm with a mixture of urea for less than one percent of the dry weight of the bark during the first month. Composting with the condition of constant shoveling takes about 1.5 months in summer and up to 5 months in winter. The temperature in the compost rises up to approximately 68-75 degrees.

Compost in one cubic meter has approximately 64 grams of phosphorus, 350 grams of potassium, 25 grams of manganese, 35 grams of iron, 35 grams of magnesium, copper and other substances. It is mixed with peat, adding a little lime, sometimes clay and phosphorus, and thus is used to improve the soil.

Additives to various earth substances

Moss. Sphagnum is prepared in the swamps. After drying, grinding and sifting, the moss is used in earthen substances to impart absorbency, friability and lightness, that is, to increase the moisture content. Pure moss used in the cultivation of lilies of the valley, for covering the roots of orchids and other indoor flowers. It is best suited as a substance for stratification and growing large-sized seeds (banana, avocado).

Small pieces of charcoal are added in small amounts to mixtures for flowers that do not respond well to strong moisture. Coal absorbs excess moisture, and when it is lacking, it gives it back. In addition, it is used as an antiseptic preparation in the form of a powder for dusting slices on dahlia tubers, gladioli, cannes roots, etc. To some extent, it absorbs herbicides and other chemical elements from the soil.

Sand. The best is river coarse sand. Sea sand must be thoroughly washed in advance, eliminating salts. Quarry sand, which contains oxides of iron and other metals, which adversely affect plants, as well as silt and clay elements, is not suitable.

Most often, sand is added to earthen mixtures without any processing. in the amount of 1/4 of the total, for better looseness. During grafting and backfilling of seeds in sowing containers, bowls, greenhouses, the sand is thoroughly washed with running water from silty or loamy elements. For difficult rooting plants, quartz sand is used. This sand gives the mixtures porosity and looseness, this ensures the passage of air and water to the roots of flowers, prevents the formation of moss, fungi in boxes, containers with cuttings and crops.

Mixing and storage of land mixtures

As a rule, in the floriculture industry they reserve garden lands for several years in advance, stored in a closed and warm room. Before that, the lands must go through a roar. For any type of land mix make special chests, they are often placed under shelving in greenhouses. In this case, you need to make sure that when watering the flowers, the water does not pass into the lari.

For the correct cultivation of various flower crops on the farm, you need to have all the above-described land compositions. They must be free from pests and viruses. When composing substances, it is necessary to take into account the biological properties of flowers, their age, growing conditions, as well as the reaction of the earth, in which this plant can develop.