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How to glue linoleum in five different ways

Docking linoleum has always been one of the most problematic stages of installing this type of coating. At the moment, perhaps the most popular method of joining panels is the so-called cold welding method, but it is far from the only one. In this article I will try to explain in detail how to glue linoleum cold welding, and also tell you about others effective ways do-it-yourself linoleum docking.

Existing methods of material joining

It would be misleading to hang labels and argue categorically that there are good and bad docking methods. Since these methods exist, it means that in some niche they are in demand. Since you can glue the joints of linoleum in different ways, the main thing here is to correctly determine which method is suitable in a particular case.

Method number 1 - landing on double-sided tape

Let's say right away that this method is fast, very easy to implement, but not very reliable and not durable. After all, scotch tape, even the highest quality, was originally developed for temporary, lightly loaded connections.

Double-sided tape is a good thing, but there is one flaw in it, such a tape will not adhere firmly to a porous surface. Therefore, before installation, any base, be it a cement screed, wood or concrete slab, must be treated with a strengthening soil.

Coverage on felt base it is impossible to connect well with double-sided tape.

When the soil is dry, you need to glue the tape itself to the base by removing the protective tape from the bottom. After that, with one hand, pull off the upper protective tape, and with the other hand, simultaneously press the edges of the fabrics to be joined. At the end of this procedure, it is advisable to roll the joint well with a hard roller. That's actually all the wisdom.

In fact, this method has only two main and only advantages. This low price and simplicity. Otherwise, I personally can recommend it as a temporary option for a maximum of a year. Then you have to glue, as expected, or change the coating.

Method number 2 - overhead nut

The assortment of plastic and metal overhead sills, although not particularly large, but, as a rule, you can choose.

As for the complexity, the instructions for installing such sills with your own hands are not far from double-sided tape.

• Each such nut has ready-made holes for fixing with self-tapping screws.... First, you need to cut the bar to size and attach it to the junction of two canvases, mark the entry points of the screws;
• After that, an electric drill is taken and a series of holes is made with a six-millimeter drill, according to the marking... Plastic dowels are immediately inserted into these holes;
• Now you just have to attach the bar and fix it with self-tapping screws..

It would seem that everything is beautiful, but the problem is that the sills of the invoice, naturally, it will stand out strongly on the floor surface. Since it is not necessary to glue linoleum here, in fact, you just press it well, this method is great as an interior transition in the area of ​​the doorway. Or to connect two different coatings, for example, tiles and linoleum.

Method number 3 - mastic

This method can be safely considered the patriarch of this trend. Mastic is a type of adhesive. In those days, when the assortment of linoleum was, to put it mildly, small, all coatings of this type were glued to the base using mastic. The method is quite reliable, but if everything is done as expected, it will not work to dismantle such a canvas without tearing it.

Nowadays, quite often people prefer to use mastic just to join two canvases. Many craftsmen believe that gluing linoleum over the entire area is relevant only for production and public spaces with a high load and on this I agree with them. At home, it makes no sense to completely fix the canvas, it will not go anywhere anyway.

This method is kind of like gluing to double-sided tape. In the same way, before gluing the joints of linoleum, the base will need to be primed, and the edges of the canvases should be degreased with any alcohol-containing solution. Just do not try to degrease with acetone or any solvents, because some models of linoleum, these compounds can simply corrode.

After that, in the area of ​​the joint, mastic is spread on the base with a spatula, and the edges of the canvases are pressed, for reliability, you can still roll the joint with a hard roller. Only mastic is not scotch tape, it will dry for about a day. And until it completely hardens, the edges of the linoleum should be pressed tightly. Usually a board is placed on the joint and a load is placed on it.

Method number 4 hot welding

Hot welding is a capital and very reliable method, but it is not suitable for everyone. In this way, only linoleum can be connected. high density, which is most often used for arranging floors on industrial enterprises and in office buildings. Models intended for the residential sector are too thin and "loose", they simply melt from this temperature.

But anything can happen in life, and perhaps in your case it will be what you need. I warn you right away, compared to other methods, hot welding is the most expensive.

For work, you will have to acquire a special hot air gun. It looks like a regular soldering iron, only heating is done with hot air. In principle, the price for it is high, but the tool is also specific, highly specialized, so it is better to rent it.

Hot welding can only be carried out if the coating is glued over the entire area of ​​contact with the floor.
First, the canvas "sits" on the mastic, and after it is firmly set, you can begin to weld the seams.

• Hot welding resembles classic welding methods. A special polymer cord acts as a solder here. It is inserted into the nozzle of the hot air gun and, as it melts, fills the seam between the two canvases;
• First, you will need to widen this seam. Some craftsmen prefer to simply join two edges with a small gap of 2 - 3 mm, theoretically this can be done, but this is not entirely true. It is better to first join two sheets without a gap, and then cut a V-shaped groove along the seam. Professionals use a special cutter for this, but at an amateur level good fit a sharp knife, I use an oblique boot knife;
• The section of the cord should be a couple of millimeters larger than the groove between the blades. It goes without saying that there should be no debris in the groove, and the edges of the linoleum should be degreased;

• Naturally, each soldering iron has instructions, plus there should also be an annotation on the packaging of the polymer cord. But if, for some reason, you did not have this information, then keep in mind that the average melting point of the polymer ranges from 300 to 500 ° C;
• When the cord is inserted and the tool has reached the desired temperature, the tip is brought close to the gap between the sheets and, as it fills, the hot air gun moves along the seam. I just put the tip on the groove and move the soldering iron;

It is better to solder the canvases first from one wall to the middle, and then in the same way, from the opposite wall to the middle.
The joints are joined with an overlap of about 30 mm.

• The seam must be filled completely so that liquid polymer protruded over the connection. If the cord does not melt well, add some heat. After finishing welding, leave the connection alone so that the polymer solidifies;
• Now you will need to take an arched knife and carefully cut off any protruding excess. Just do not try to "put things in order" while the polymer is still liquid, the fact is that it tends to shrink and if you hurry, you will have a groove in place of the seam. The best time is when the composition has already grabbed, but still warm.

There is one more nuance in hot welding technology. No matter how hard you try, you will not be able to achieve an inconspicuous seam. Welding will be clearly visible, this is often used by creative personalities, creating original panels from linoleum.

To be honest, hot welding is easy as long as you read about it. When it comes to direct welding, without experience, you have to tinker a lot. Therefore, it makes sense to consider hiring a specialist here.

Cold welding or the most popular method number 5

Lacking experience with high quality and, at the same time, imperceptibly weld a seam of linoleum at home with your own hands, the easiest way is to connect using cold welding.

In a nutshell, this is pure form gluing surfaces. Only instead of ordinary glue are used special formulations... They are selected depending on the type of linoleum and the specific connection conditions.

Types of adhesive

Since it will not work to glue the linoleum correctly, whatever, you will need to choose one of three options.

After all, if the packaging says "Cold welding" does not mean at all that this composition is right for you.

• The most commonly used "Cold welding" type "A". This composition has a rather liquid consistency, due to which it easily penetrates the pores of soft linoleum. Usually such linoleum is used for residential premises, some are also called foamed, although this is not true. If you are going to glue a new canvas, then this is exactly your option;
• The composition marked "C" will already be much thicker. This consistency allows surfaces to be glued with a gap of up to 3 - 4 mm. In theory, it can also be used to bond a new coating, but the "C" type was developed more for repairing torn web and gluing open cracks. This method of connection partly resembles hot welding with a hot air gun, only instead of a soldering iron and a polymer cord, the wide seam of linoleum is filled with a jelly-like substance;

• Cold welding of the "T" type is generally not suitable for amateurs. It is used in the narrow niche of polyester-based PVC coatings. Working with such a composition requires serious practical skills, in addition, it has a rather high toxicity and it is dangerous to work with it without preparation.

Cold welding technique

The question of how to properly glue linoleum with cold welding, in view of its special popularity, deserves more detailed consideration. As I already mentioned, type "A" is used most often here. Any package of this type is completed with a kind of adapter with a thin needle, through which it is convenient to inject the composition between tightly connected canvases.

You won't need too many tools. Of the necessary, you will need to buy a roll of painting or ordinary stationery wide tape and a sharp knife, just do not take a stationery knife, it is too weak to cut linoleum. To ensure a straight cut, you can take a metal ruler or any flat metal bar. I am using long building level, besides the fact that it is even, this instrument does not bend yet.

When laying the flooring in your home, first line the room with linoleum in the position it should be in and leave it that way for a week. During this time, it adapts and all you have to do is glue the seams, cut off the excess canvas smoothly around the perimeter and press it along. Believe me, it will not go anywhere and will lie as long as you like.

This method of laying allows you to do without gluing the canvases over the entire plane, which is not only cheaper and easier, but here you can still easily remove the canvas and use it for other purposes. For example, if you decide to change the coating, then the old linoleum will not be difficult to roll up and take to the country.

The base, that is, the floor, whatever it is made of, must be clean and perfectly flat.
From my own experience, I’ll tell you, don’t expect thick linoleum to hide cracks and unevenness in the floor.
When the canvas settles, all existing defects will appear on it.

In order to ensure a tight, invisible seam without the slightest gaps, the two canvases are overlapped. If alignment of the pattern is not required, then an overlap of 3-4 cm is enough, in other words, the width of the tape. When dealing with a pattern, decide for yourself, but after cutting, the pattern on the adjacent surfaces must match exactly.

Glue "Cold welding" is an aggressive thing, an inadvertently falling drop can easily ruin the surface of linoleum. In order to protect ourselves from such incidents, we will use scotch tape.

At the beginning and in the middle of the future connecting seam, a tape of adhesive tape is glued along the lower canvas. After that, in the same place, the same tape is glued to the top sheet.

Now put the scotch tape in the middle of the tape and press a metal ruler tightly, after which you cut this whole pie to the floor with a knife. By removing the trim from the bottom and top, you will get a tight, even joint, both sides of which will be protected with tape.

Next, you will need to take a tube of cold welding, immerse the thin needle of the adapter deep into the seam and fill it so that the composition protrudes slightly from above (the needle is immersed approximately to the middle of the thickness of the fabric). It is necessary to squeeze out simultaneously with the movement of the tube along the seam.

The glue that comes out from above does not need to be wiped off immediately. The edges of the canvases are protected with tape, so you should wait until the composition is completely dry, and then, pulling off the tape, you will get a clean seam. If there are small surpluses, you just need to carefully cut them off. If everything is done correctly, the seam can only be found by touch.

Linoleum repair

In the case when you do not plan to change the coating, but it has hard-hitting cracks, they can be repaired using cold welding of the "C" grade. The main thing here is to carefully fill only the crack itself with the composition, because accidentally smeared glue can make it even worse than it was.

Before gluing torn linoleum or cracks in the canvas, the place of the defect will need to be well cleaned and degreased. After that, adhesive tape is glued directly to the gap. Now take a blade and cut out this very crack along the edge in tape. Such a "surgical operation", when everything around is sealed, and there is only access to the place of rupture.

Next, the crack will need to be carefully filled with glue and wait until it dries. At the end, the tape is removed, and the protruding beads of glue are carefully trimmed with a knife. In theory, any tape can be used, but in this case, I prefer working with transparent stationery tape. A crack is clearly visible through it, as a result it is much easier to cut it.

If it comes about a fresh rupture of the canvas, for example, due to inaccurate movement of furniture, while the edges of the canvas have not yet had time to strongly deform, it makes sense to glue with cold welding of type "A". Similar to how you would glue new surfaces.

In this case, I stick the tape, make an incision along the contour of the gap, fill the seam with glue, and cover everything with a rag or paper napkins on top and put the load on. Excess glue is absorbed into the rag, the next day, the scotch tape, along with what sticks on it, just breaks off, you just need to lightly clean the seam with a blade and that's it.

Linoleum is the most unpretentious, undemanding and cheap option flooring... Moreover, it can be laid in rooms with a high level of humidity, for example, in the kitchen. This is very often decisive in his choice. And after the acquisition, very important questions arise: is it worth gluing linoleum to the base and how to glue linoleum so that it is a single canvas? Within the framework of this article, we will find out in which cases it is necessary to glue linoleum to the floor and how to do it, and also figure out how to make the joints invisible.

"Cold welding" for gluing linoleum - and the joint is almost invisible

Why is it necessary to glue linoleum

Laying linoleum, I want it to be a whole monolithic layer on the floor, and no joints were visible. Today it is not difficult to purchase material of foreign production, which is produced in rolls up to 4 m wide. This size will be enough for it to occupy the entire area in the premises of domestic construction. In this case, you do not have to glue the joints: you can choose linoleum exactly for the size of the room.

Domestic manufacturers produce linoleum 1.5 m wide. By purchasing it, you cannot do without careful adjustment of the canvases and gluing the joints.

Bonding linoleum to the base will create a more durable monolithic coating

Of course, you can lay linoleum without gluing it to the base. But the so-called free-laid linoleum has a number of disadvantages.

Firstly, during operation, ruts and bulges from the legs of the chairs will appear.

Secondly, when the furniture moves, a wave will "go", the linoleum will swell, it will be difficult to straighten it without removing all the heavy furniture from the room.

Thirdly, the distance between the joints of the canvases may increase over time, they will "part".

Fourthly, non-glued linoleum is easier to damage with a sharp cutting object.

Bonding linoleum to the base will avoid these problems and create a monolithic coating. Even if you have purchased a canvas that is wide enough to cover the entire room, you should still use glue. This will extend the life of the floor covering by 40-50%.

There are several types of glue for linoleum, different in composition and purpose. When choosing which glue to glue linoleum with, it is imperative to take into account the type and material of linoleum.

Dispersion adhesives

Dispersion adhesive is used for gluing linoleum to the substrate

Dispersion adhesives are aqueous suspensions and solutions of acrylic or carboxymethyl cellulose with various additives. These adhesives are non-toxic and practically odorless. Among the disadvantages can be distinguished exposure to moisture and low temperatures. So, for example, dispersion glue, frozen during transportation or storage, loses its properties.

Acrylate adhesive used for laying heterogeneous and homogeneous linoleum in rooms with moderate and high traffic.

Bustilat used for gluing linoleum with felt base. It contains carboxymethyl cellulose, latex and chalk.

Humilax suitable for laying natural linoleum. It is based on latex and rubber.

Conductive adhesive used in rooms with large quantity electronic technology... In this case, an antistatic coating must be installed.

Bituminous mastics fix linoleum on a fabric basis.

Dispersion adhesives are used to adhere linoleum to the substrate. To do this, a layer of 0.5-0.6 mm thick is applied to the floor using a notched trowel, after which the coating sheets are laid. Depending on the variety, the consumption of glue for linoleum ranges from 200 g / m 2 to 500 g / m 2. The exact quantity will be indicated on the package.

Adhesive for cold welding of linoleum

The second name of this type of adhesives is reactionary... It is dictated by the properties of the glue itself. It enters into a chemical reaction with the linoleum base, practically melts it, turning the joints into a strong, rigid intermediate strip. This effect is also called diffusion: the glue connects the linoleum canvases together, dissolving their edges into each other.

Reaction Adhesive is ideal for use with commercial linoleum.

Such glue is a complex chemical compound based on polyurethane and epoxy resin... It has a very pungent odor and is also explosive and fire hazardous.

Reaction glue is called “cold weld” because it is used as an adhesive for linoleum joints. Gluing two canvases together is very similar to "welding".

There are several types of glue, each of which is used for laying linoleum of a certain type and age and on different stages works.

A-type cold welding glue is used for gluing the joints of new linoleum

Has the most liquid consistency of all. It can only be used for gluing the joints of new, freshly laid linoleum. For this, the canvases are tightly glued to the base, the pattern is aligned and the joint is coated with type-A cold welding. As a result, the seam will be transparent and durable, it can only be detected by touch. By the way, linoleum should be commercial or household, but solid.

C-type cold welding glue is used for gluing joints with large gaps

Has a thick consistency. It is used for gluing "dispersed" joints of old linoleum. As a rule, the distance between the canvases of the old linoleum is quite large. Such glue not only glues the joints together, but also creates, as it were, a strip of linoleum between them. C-type cold welding is used for gluing 3-4 mm wide gaps.

Cold welding T-type

It is used for bonding PVC linoleum with a polyester backing.

First of all, it should be noted that in the process of using glue for joints, it is imperative to wear gloves on your hands. And it is better to protect the respiratory tract as well, since the glue has a pungent odor and is very toxic.

Important! It is undesirable to allow glue to get on the surface of linoleum. It will not be possible to completely remove the blot. Even if you follow the advice of experts, wait until the glue dries and knock it off sharp knife, there will still be a noticeable trace on the surface. To prevent this from happening, it is convenient to use a rag or rag. When opening, wearing, using a tube of glue, always hold it over a cloth, in which case drops of glue will fall on it. Then the rag must be immediately thrown away in a place where it cannot stick to the linoleum.

Cold welding technology is quite simple:

• We clean the gap that we will glue from dust and moisture.
• We glue one-sided tape at the joints along the entire length.

We glue the tape at the joints and cut along the gap

• Before applying the glue, carefully cut the tape at the junction.
• Squeeze the glue from the tube into the slot.

Extrude A-type cold welding into the gap between the linoleum sheets

• After 10-20 minutes, the tape can be removed.
• You can walk on the floor in an hour.

Important! The shorter the seam, the stronger and more invisible the connection. Taking into account the fact that it is practically impossible to make the floor perfectly flat, there is always the possibility of height differences and bulges on the floor. If you glue the linoleum along the entire length at once, at the site of the defect it will begin to bulge and bulge. This can be prevented by gluing the joints in 50 -70 cm segments, each time waiting for the glue to dry. In this case, the seam will be smooth and inconspicuous.

Glued linoleum will last much longer than loosely laid, will not budge and puff up. And the joints, glued with cold welding, will be simply invisible. Try to follow the technology and follow the instructions on the package with the glue.

Linoleum is a material that has occupied a leading position in the construction market among finishing floor coverings for many years. It has its merits and demerits. One of the disadvantages of linoleum can be considered the presence of seams when you have to dock it between rooms or connect separate strips to each other when covering large areas. However, this disadvantage is easy to deal with. There is a special technique - cold welding for linoleum. It will allow you to close the joints between individual cuts of material without the use of metal sills.

Before we talk about how to connect the joints between individual pieces of linoleum, a few words should be said about the material itself. This kind topcoat for floors it is used both in residential premises and in offices or in production. The thing is that linoleum has a mass positive features- it is easy to install, is not afraid of the effects of water, is quite durable, does not slip and, in general, does not cause problems throughout the entire operational period. Also, linoleum has a lot of variations in colors, textures, it can be simple or insulated.

Another advantage of linoleum is that the material is sold by the meter and can have different widths, which allows you to choose optimal sizes for each room. However, it is almost impossible to lay material in all rooms without cuts. Also, sometimes in large rooms it is necessary to join separate pieces of material. As a result, seams are formed, which are either closed with a metal sill, which is not always appropriate, or can be left as is, or the edges of the linoleum strip are nailed down with small studs. But it is recommended to use welding to connect individual pieces.

Welding of pieces of linoleum can be done using cold or hot technology, but in both cases this work, although simple, still requires attention, accuracy and adherence to special rules. In general, welding is the creation of a seam / joint between individual sheets of material. Thanks to the work done, it is possible to obtain a large one-piece piece of linoleum. This is especially important in places of active movement of people or constant mechanical impact on the coating.

Hot welding of seams of linoleum

The hot welding process is based on the temperature effect on linoleum. This type of welding is usually used inside industrial premises, where the floors are subjected to strong mechanical stress, as well as where there is a high traffic of people and the floors wear out very quickly. Also, using the hot technique, rather long joints are closed up.

Hot welding is carried out using a special torch (hot air gun), which is capable of heating the material up to 400 degrees and melting it. A special filler cord is inserted into the gap between the material cuts, which also heats up. In structure, it resembles linoleum itself. After cooling, two separate pieces of linoleum are very reliably glued (soldered) together. Then the formed "scar" is lightly sanded.

On a note! If there is no special burner at hand for connecting individual pieces of linoleum, then builders use a powerful electric soldering iron. However, in this case, it will not be possible to achieve an ideal result - the seam will be crooked.

Also, to carry out work using the hot welding method, you will need scissors with a crescent-shaped blade. With their help, excess adhesive component will be removed. Regular scissors will not work here.

For hot welding of linoleum, a special device is used - a hot air gun

Advantages of the hot welding method:

• the ability to get a durable and completely sealed seam;
• high reliability of the method.

The disadvantages of the hot welding technique include the fact that it can only be used while laying a dense, rigid type of linoleum. Low-quality and soft linoleum will simply melt and deteriorate. It is also necessary to have certain working skills in order to avoid mistakes and not spoil the coating. In general, if all the work was done correctly and accurately, then the gap between the individual canvases of linoleum will not be noticeable to the eyes.

In the photo, removing excess from linoleum

Cold welding of this flooring material is much simpler than hot welding. It does not require the master to have special skills or to acquire certain equipment, and therefore is most suitable for performing work on his own during repairs in an apartment.

Cold welding of linoleum is carried out using a special glue that acts on the principle of a solvent. It "corrodes" the edges of linoleum canvases, and after drying, firmly connects them to each other. The result of the work is a thin seam, which is practically invisible, unless you specifically look for it. The connection is quite strong and reliable.

Cold welding of linoleum - stages of work

Attention! The glue used for cold welding technology is quite toxic, so you need to work with it carefully.

Advantages and disadvantages

The popularity of cold welding is easy to explain. The method has many advantages. Advantages of the cold welding technique:

• the result of the work is practically invisible to the naked eye;
• no need to purchase special equipment - you just need to buy special glue, masking tape;
• the work is done quite quickly;
• low cost - one tube of cold welding is enough for sealing large seams, it is much more profitable than buying so many metal sills.

There are practically no drawbacks to cold welding, except that it will not work with multilayer linoleum - the joint will be striking. It is also not recommended to use the cold welding method if insulation was laid under the linoleum.

Types of adhesives for cold welding of linoleum

As an adhesive component for cold welding of linoleum can be used different types glue. There are three main ones - A, C, T. They differ from each other in consistency, and the appropriate glue should be chosen based on the size of the gap.

Table. Types of glue for cold welding of linoleum.

Glue type	Characteristic
	It is a liquid adhesive containing enough a large number of solvent substances. It is used if the gaps between two linoleum canvases are very narrow (no more than 1 mm). The glue easily penetrates the joints, joins the fragments into a single whole. The most important thing is that the strips of linoleum are well docked and lie flat. Ideally, if the factory edges are joined together. The result of the work is invisible seams.
	A sufficiently thick compound that is used to seal joints with a gap of about 2 mm or more. The composition contains much less solvent, but more PVC. The thick mass fills the seam, hardens - a reliable and strong connection is obtained. Even if the edges of the linoleum canvases are not even enough, this glue will cope with the task. The adhesive is suitable for repairing old linoleum.
	This type of glue is rarely used, especially by beginners. However, experienced builders may prefer it. The composition is used to join pieces of multi-component linoleum. It is made on the basis of polyvinyl chloride and polyester. The joint is durable, elastic.

Type A glue is most often used for home repairs. Other types are used less often, especially the latter.

Cold welding technology

Welding of any type of linoleum is carried out only after the material has been laid on the floor. Before this, the rough base is leveled, cleaned of construction waste, if necessary, washed and dried. Only after that, the linoleum, previously measured and cut in accordance with the size of the room, spreads to the surface. Before fixing it with plinths or another method, the linoleum is kept in the room for some time, leveled. In this case, the canvases are laid with an overlap of about 3-4 cm.

Attention! If there is a complex pattern on the linoleum, then it is important to take this aspect into account when joining. That is, adjusting the pattern, especially when laying the material with an overlap, should be very accurate, carefully measuring everything. In case of violation of the geometry of the picture, it will no longer be possible to correct the situation. The only way out is to buy a new canvas.

Step 1. The first step is to overlap the linoleum canvases in the room, as mentioned above. To obtain an ideal joint, the following method is used: using a ruler and a clerical knife, two canvases are cut at once. The cut line should be about the middle of the overlap. That is, if the width of the overlap is 4 cm, the cut line will follow a line 2 cm away from the edge.

Step 2. The incision is made along a previously marked line along a long ruler laid along it. It presses tightly to the surface, and the cut is most conveniently done with a sharp clerical knife. Also, instead of a ruler, an even cut of linoleum can be used, metal bar etc.

Step 3. Cuttings from the lower and upper canvases are removed. It turns out an even joint.

Step 4. Linoleum canvases are folded back. If the material is not fixed on the entire surface of the floor, then its edges along the cuts are glued using double-sided tape. It is best to invite a friend to help here, since it is not very convenient to glue the edges of linoleum on your own. First of all, the adhesive tape is glued to the subfloor, and then the protective film is removed from it and linoleum is glued on top.

Step 5. The joint is rolled with a small roller. This procedure will make it possible to press the linoleum well against the tape and the floor.

Step 6. After that, the junction of two pieces of linoleum is processed with a soft damp cloth, and then dried. The area where the adhesive will be applied must be clean and dry.

Step 7. The joint is glued with masking tape. It adheres well to the surface.

Step 8. A strip of masking tape is also rolled with the narrow roller used previously. With the correct procedure, the cold welding adhesive will not get on the surface of the linoleum and will not damage it.

Step 9. The masking tape is cut along the joint line between the linoleum canvases. This is necessary in order to be able to apply glue to the joint.

Step 10. The tube with cold welding is shaken before starting work. The tip of the tube is well cleaned before use.

Step 11. Adhesive composition it is applied as follows: the tip of the tube is inserted into the joint between the linoleum canvases and pressed with the fingers of one hand. The fingers of the other hand apply pressure to the tube. The tube is led along the joint.

Attention! It is important to ensure that the composition that is in the tube does not get on the linoleum unprotected with masking tape.

Step 12. After 10-15 minutes, the tape is carefully removed. It is important not to stain unprotected linoleum with glue. The tape is removed at an acute angle. The result of the work is an almost invisible narrow seam. You can move around the linoleum without fear about two hours after the work.

This is how the work is done with type A glue. But you can also work with the type C composition in the same way, except that masking tape is not used. A appearance the joint will be more visible.

It is important to keep your health in mind when working with welding. Glue vapors are poisonous, and therefore the room must be well ventilated.

Video - Cold welding technology

Cold welding prices for longoleum

cold welding for linoleum

In order for the work to go as quickly as possible, and the result was of high quality, you should listen to some advice from experienced specialists.

1. If glue has dripped onto the surface of unprotected linoleum, then you need to wait until the drop is dry and remove it with a knife. It is not recommended to rub the glue, as there is a risk of ruining the drawing.
2. Cold welding can also be used for repair work on old linoleum.
3. It is better to work with protective gloves to avoid contact of glue on the skin.
4. You cannot apply glue without a needle tip to the tube.
5. Excess glue is always removed when dry with a sharp knife.

Cold welding of linoleum can be done independently without the help of specialists. The main thing is to comply with all requirements and be attentive to this simple but painstaking work.

Advantage modern ways and repair technologies is that professional techniques work with ease, without serious financial costs, any person can repeat. Even such a process as a reliable and durable gluing of linoleum. It is enough to have the necessary tools and some tools at hand.

To understand all the intricacies of working with flexible flooring material, you must first of all know the basic characteristics and classification of the product. In the future, this will definitely come in handy.

So, linoleum (Latin linum - flax, oleum - oil) is a roll material used for decorative and protective flooring. There are a lot of varieties, let's name the two most common:

Natural(Forbo, DWL, Tarkett)

This is the very first type of linoleum products. Made from a mixture of resin, linseed oil, wood flour, beeswax, fillers and pigments. All components are mixed in special mixers, and the resulting "dough" is rolled out on a fabric base (jute, flax, thin). Today it is the most expensive and safe for health and ecology type of product, better known as marmoleum.

PVC linoleum(Tarkett, Juteks, Grabo)

This product is made of thermoplastic mass, covered with a special protective layer - transparent. Foamed polyvinyl chloride (VPVC) or synthetic felt (polyester fiber) can be used as a base. Quality material moisture resistant, durable, non-biodegradable, easy to install and maintain.

The assortment line of polymer and natural linoleum products is huge. According to the scope of application, there are on sale:

By structure they produce:

• Homogeneous - a homogeneous layer in which the pattern is repeated throughout its entire depth. This series includes commercial and specialty coatings.
• Heterogeneous - a multilayer material consisting of a protective layer, a decorative base and a base.

According to the class of wear resistance to abrasion loads, it is divided into coatings 21-23 (household), 31-34 (semi-commercial and commercial) and 41-43 classes (commercial and specialized).

The number of decors can be the envy of any other finishing material... They produce linoleum smooth and structured under the board and palace parquet, matte porcelain stoneware and glossy marble, textiles, and even with images of paintings, graphic drawings, etc.

And if 2 or more pieces are mounted, then a problem arises - how to fix the seam? We will describe the features of this technology below.

How to glue linoleum at the joints

In order to prevent the seam from coming apart in the future, you can fix it with an aluminum or plastic threshold. But this method is not suitable for many. Therefore, the chemical method comes to the rescue here - cold or hot welding. Let's take a closer look.

Cold welding

This is an adhesive polymer mixture, which consists of almost the same components as PVC linoleum. Tetrahydrofuran or synthetic rubber compounds are used as a base. The mechanism of action is simple: upon contact with the floor material, the adhesive composition reacts with it and slightly melts the edge. The result - the edges are connected, the seam is almost invisible, waterproof and durable.

The material works on natural and PVC linoleum of all types - from household to commercial. Most often, the product is used for work in residential premises.

Of particular importance is the composition of the material - homogeneous or multilayer. The type of adhesive mixture used depends on this. Such giants as Forbo, Tarkett, Werner Müller produce the following types of cold welding:

Products processed by cold welding can be used in the temperature range from -40 ºС to +60 ºС. Any type is slightly toxic, flammable, so you need to protect from fire, heating, use personal protective equipment (gloves, goggles, respirator) when working.

Hot welding

This term denotes a process, the essence of which is as follows: a welding cord suitable for PVC or natural marmoleum shade is filled in special attachment for a building hair dryer, melted in it and applied to the linoleum gluing area. The excess is cut off, and the seam is strong, resistant to deformation and stress.

Welding cords are made from complex polymer compounds with the addition of pigments. Since the product is available in the widest range of decors, the range of the manufacturer of styling accessories includes at least 100 shades. If you wish, you can order your own shade, but the lead time is not small - up to 3 months.

The technology of gluing with a welding cord is recommended for all linoleum products in rolls and tiles. Because of the specific tools and equipment required, this method is most often used by teams of professional installers for commercial homogeneous and heterogeneous coatings that are installed over large areas.

Cold welding applications

You will need:

The surface under the linoleum must be clean, free from traces of dust and foreign debris. The coating should also be wiped thoroughly, removing dust and greasy traces. According to the manufacturer's recommendation floor material first, it is glued over the entire area, after a day you can process the edges of the canvases.

First of all, you need to get the so-called tightly cut seam, that is, an absolutely even and well-fitted joint. For this, the edges of the linoleum pieces are overlapped (from 3 to 5 cm). The strips are pressed with a steel ruler or strip and both canvases are cut simultaneously with a sharp knife or a special cutter. The clippings are removed.

If necessary, one of the linoleum cuts is fixed to the base using double-sided tape. If you are afraid to damage the upper protective layer, then you can glue paper adhesive tape to the edges before cutting, and after work - remove the remnants along with the scraps.

The scheme of work with glue "cold welding".

Now you can stick masking tape on the resulting tightly cut seam. It will protect the linoleum from excess glue, but it is imperative to seal the connection by rolling tape rubber roller... In the middle with a knife, you need to carefully make a cut, heat the coating a little with a construction hairdryer. Next, put a nozzle-needle on the tube, insert it into the incision and carefully squeeze out the glue, gradually moving along the seam. After 10-30 minutes (according to the instructions on the package), you can remove the paper tape

When working with cold welding of type C, the joint area must be cleaned of debris, glue residues, etc. Put on the tube a nozzle with a flattened nozzle and slowly fill the seam with transparent glue with a small margin (adhesives shrink up to 75%). Allow to dry for 2-24 hours depending on the width of the gap. If necessary, repeat the process, applying glue over the old one.

It is undesirable to fill gaps from 4 mm and wider with two parallel or more seams. Better to glue a strip of linoleum.

Hot welding method

To glue the joint of commercial linoleum cuts, you will need:

Advice! The temperature and speed of welding should be adjusted based on the characteristics of the coating. For optimal results, it is advisable to test welding on waste or a small section.

Work order:

Groove formation

For all types of linoleum, a semicircular cutter is suitable, with which a gap is cut, which will subsequently be filled with molten cord. If a homogeneous commercial flooring is to be installed, it is better to use a triangular hand tool or a milling machine. In the latter case, it is necessary to leave a small gap of 0.3 mm between the canvases.

Welding

Measure the length of the future seam and cut the appropriate amount from the roll. Insert the tape into the nozzle and turn on construction hair dryer... The appliance must be kept straight so that hot air enters the cord and partially into the cut channel. Press the edge of the heated strip to the joint and, gradually advancing, completely fill the groove with it.

Removing excess

After the cord has cooled down a little, cut the protruding part with a knife with a guide. Make final adjustments and smoothing after the work area has cooled down completely.

The finished coating should be solid, waterproof and almost invisible. For the perfect finish, entrust the styling to a professional.

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Linoleum is polymer material, which is used as a versatile floor covering. In popularity, it even competes with laminate flooring. It is distinguished by ease of use and mobility, it is easy to lay and, if necessary, can also be easily removed. And the variety of colors and textures will satisfy all tastes and harmoniously fit into the interior and functionality of each room.

Based on the list positive qualities, it is widespread among consumers, and hence a number of problems arise regarding the correct laying technology, gluing joints and other production nuances. A special procedure is the processing and bonding of seams between individual sheets, which also raises many questions.

Coating features

Linoleum can easily be laid even by a person far from finishing works... Its surface is convenient and easy to wash, it is not afraid of water, movement on it is soft and does not cause noise. This is the most the best option for many residential and commercial applications.

The division of linoleum into types occurs depending on the material of manufacture, wear resistance and structure.

Felt-based linoleum, which can be household and semi-commercial, is quite popular.

Its main features:

• The multi-layered and soft structure holds its shape better and practically does not deform;
• It springs even on concrete floor;
• Has the property of soundproofing;
• Due to the impregnation with anti-flammable substances, the possibility of its ignition is minimal.
• It retains heat well and boasts a long service life.

On the Russian market, it is presented in two versions, which in certain modifications can have from 5 to 7 layers:

• PVC - protects against physical and chemical effects;
• The second layer of PVC - functions similar to the first layer, are not available in all types of coatings;
• Printed cover;
• Foamed PVC - does not absorb moisture and prevents deformation during operation;
• Fiberglass - stabilizes all layers among themselves;
• Felt backing - base;
• An additional layer of waterproofing that protects the felt from moisture.

Styling features:

• The floor must be level and dry. The material itself is hard to cut with a knife, this must be taken into account before starting work and choose the right tool;
• For rooms with a high level of humidity, felt-based linoleum is still not suitable, it begins to mold and rot;

• It is desirable to have a monolithic coating of the entire area, it is extremely difficult to weld it and only a master should process the seams;
• At the joints, an additional water-repellent tape is glued, it is impossible for water to get into the gaps. The skirting boards must fit very tightly.

Linoleum on a fabric or textile basis is presented in two layers: the first is synthetic or natural felt and the second is PVC with decor.

It is used mainly in residential premises and has the following properties:

• Heat and sound insulation;
• Softness and elasticity;
• Does not require the help of specialists during installation;
• Environmental friendliness and safety.

You can lay it on flat surface or on the old pavement, if it lies without displacement. At the joints, protection from water is required, the use of skirting boards. The negative qualities include a relatively short service life and high cost.

Commercial linoleum is a coating designed specifically for places with a large flow of people. Oe is wear-resistant and used in schools, hospitals, offices, corridors, cafes, shopping centers and other similar places.

Positive sides:

• Resistant to moisture;
• Long service life, resistance to deformation, contains quartz chips;
• Environmentally friendly product, fireproof, soundproofing property;
• The construction is monolithic and does not slip.

Negative: high price and small palette of colors.

It is divided into two types: heterogeneous (multi-layer) and homogeneous (single-layer), they are the same in terms of service life, cost, but different in the field of application. Multi-layer are more suitable for rooms with a requirement for heat and sound insulation. Single-layer is applicable in places where there is a high probability of mechanical damage.

Laying such a coating should only be dealt with by a specialist. If it is necessary to glue it, the hot welding method is used.

When is bonding necessary?

Linoleum domestic production most often it is produced in a width of 1.5 meters. It is great for compact rooms, but with large rooms there is a problem. Indeed, in this case, laying in separate strips and further welding of the seams are provided. In some cases, the coating has to be joined like a mosaic and glued in parts.

Many professionals advise to lay linoleum as completely as possible.

Before buying the material, the area of ​​the apartment is measured and the required roll footage is calculated from this figure. Seams begin to join after the flooring. You can fix the carpet or mark the transition between rooms with gates.

Butt joint methods

Previously, the edges of linoleum could be soldered together only with the help of a special soldering iron. The seams were uneven, stood out strongly and ruined the entire appearance of the floor. This fastening did not last long. Nowadays, new, practical and reliable methods of soldering have been developed.

There are several ways to join the joints - these are cold and hot welding. The cold one helps to glue the flooring by applying a special adhesive, and the hot one - soldering with special equipment. Additional methods are also used, such as double-sided tape.

For laying linoleum on top of other materials or if the edge is lifted, rubber, wooden or metal sills are used (mechanical method).

It is possible to connect the seams with your own hands at home only by cold welding, with tape or a nut. It cannot be argued that one method is good and the other is bad. It all depends on the specific case, the specialization of the room and the type of linoleum.

Hot welding

It is necessary to immediately note the inexpediency of the method at home. Household linoleum is not resistant to high temperatures and will simply melt in the end. Most of the technology is designed to be very durable and wear-resistant material, which is mainly used in commercial or industrial enterprises or to create complex applications.

For work you will need:

• connector - polymer cords (welding);
• soldering apparatus - hot air gun and nozzle;
• fluoroplastic tape;
• sharp knife.

It is better to rent a hairdryer, as this is a tool of narrow specialization and will most likely not be needed in the future.

Soldering technique:

• Linoleum is tightly attached to the floor with PVA glue or fluoroplastic tape and the edges are adjusted. Dust, water and debris are preliminarily removed;
• Along the entire length of the joint, a recess is cut out in the form of a V-shaped groove with a sharp knife or cutter;
• Attach the nozzle to the soldering machine. The cord is inserted into the nozzle;
• Only after that the hair dryer is turned on and heated to a high temperature (300-600 ° C). On the good equipment sensors and temperature control must be present;
• The edges are degreased for better adhesion. They are carried out with a hairdryer along the joint, without lingering in one place. It is necessary to solder smoothly along the entire length. The polymer should protrude somewhat beyond the seam. The cooled seam is cut along the entire length with an arcuate knife (the seam should be warm, but already set). It is more convenient to solder from the wall to the middle of the room, and also from the opposite side.

Advantages of the method:

• The seam has a long service life;
• Strong and reliable connection.

Minuses:

• Expensive equipment and Consumables;
• Soldering requires skills in working with the equipment;
• The seam is quite noticeable;
• Not suitable for household linoleum.

You can also weld linoleum with a soldering iron or iron. Although this method is deprecated, it does occur occasionally. The soldering iron is convenient for small spaces with inconspicuous, few joints.

The essence of the technique is simple: the soldering iron is heated and the edges of the sheets are melted, they are connected to each other. The resulting seam is cut off if necessary. So that it does not stand out strongly against the general background, along the fresh and soft seam, pressing, it is carried out several times with a roller.

Plus - simplicity and affordability.

Minuses:

• The joints do not look aesthetically pleasing;
• They are brittle and do not last long;
• Modern types of coatings do not melt well under the influence of a soldering iron.

Details on how to glue linoleum using hot welding can be found in the video below.

Cold welding

This modern technology, which is ideal for those who have no experience in such work, but want to independently and efficiently process the joints at home. Adhesion of the edges by cold welding is carried out using a specialized glue.

This processing has a number of positive aspects:

• No need to hire professional workers and buy special equipment;
• Enough economical option, which does not require large cash costs;
• The seams are neat and almost invisible.

Gluing kit:

• wide paper tape;
• knife (not clerical!);
• ruler;
• glue (cold welding).

Household welding is divided into three types - "A", "C" and "T":

• Type "A" is well suited for gluing new, only laid linoleum. The consistency of the glue is quite liquid, it allows you to even more reliably hide the seams and ensure a snug fit. It literally melts the edges and holds them tightly;
• Type "C" is focused on the old coating. Here the glue is much thicker, the consistency is similar to jelly. This determines its ability to fill large gaps. With its help, the old coating is repaired, cracks, such seams do not get dirty. Finished seams are about 4 mm wide;
• Type "T" is intended for polyester materials. Working with this composition requires knowledge and skills. It is highly toxic.

The glue comes in tubes and is sold in hardware stores. At the end of the bottle there is a needle-tip, which should be thin enough to penetrate deeply into the seam.

Before gluing the linoleum, you should spread it out and leave it to straighten for about a week. During this time, it will smooth out and adapt to the shape of the floor. After that, the excess parts are cut off and fixed along the plinth. The floor is pre-washed and, if necessary, primed. To make the seam even less noticeable, the sheets are overlapped one on top of the other. A cover without a pattern will need about 4 centimeters, and the presence of a pattern will require adjustment.

Cold overlap welding technique:

• The upper part is bent, the tape is glued in the middle and along the lower part. The same strip is attached to the top;
• A ruler is placed in the middle and cut along the line with a knife up to the floor;
• The trimmed parts are removed, so a tight connection is obtained, protected with tape;
• Now, in the middle, the place of the cut is filled with welding (the spout is immersed in half), the glue protrudes slightly;
• After 15 minutes, the composition dries, after which you can remove the tape.

Cold welding technique without overlapping:

• The edges are cut as smoothly as possible. If a drawing is present, then it is also adjusted;
• A wide paper tape is glued. It is needed to protect the material and highlight the bonding area. In the course of the seam, the scotch tape is cut;
• Guided by the tape, glue is applied to the seam. It is important not to let it fall on an unprotected surface. It is impossible to clean the coating from it;
• After 15 minutes, the tape is smoothly removed. After 2 hours, you can safely walk on the floor.
• The technique is intended for a new coating. When gluing the old one, all points are observed, but the scotch tape can not be glued, since the linoleum has already "lay down" and does not need additional fixation.

Repairing Torn Linoleum:

• We thoroughly clean and degrease cracks or defects, stick adhesive tape;
• We cut through the gap, opening access only to the damaged area;
• Fill with glue (type "C") and wait for it to dry completely;
• Remove scotch tape and excess glue.

If damage has occurred on a fresh canvas, for example, when rearranging furniture, then we take type "A" glue.

Pros:

• Ease of use;
• Suitable for home use;

Here are some helpful tips from the pros:

• The nose of the tube with glue should go deeply inside the seam;
• The layer is applied along the entire length, protruding above it by no more than 4 mm;
• It is convenient to quickly remove drops from the surface with a rag;
• The excess should be removed after complete drying so that the glue does not move away from the edges;
• It is better to hold the tube of glue with both hands;
• Glue is a corrosive chemical, therefore it is necessary to observe safety measures and work only with rubber gloves and a respirator;
• During operation, ventilation is required, after airing the room.

The disadvantage of this method is the impossibility of using it on floorings with insulation or a soft base. The joints come out uneven and inaccurate, and the seam is visible to the naked eye and greatly spoils the appearance of the floor.

Double-sided tape

The easiest but unreliable way. This is because none, even the best adhesive tape, is designed for a long-term load and over time its adhesive capacity weakens. In order to glue it, only a flat floor without bumps is suitable. Based on this, it is better to prime the entire surface before work with a special strengthening soil.