Do-it-yourself massive board for the floor. Massive board laying technology: methods and types of fastening. Pros and cons of array coverage

Massive board Ecopol is laid on any flat base that meets the general requirements, including logs.

Choose the method of laying solid board Ecopol

flooring traditional massive board business is troublesome and costly. For its installation, you need to buy plywood, a primer, 2K glue for it and for an array. Pay for the work of the laying master. Responsibility is high, laying speed is low. Therefore, such work cannot be cheap. Yes, and it is impossible to lay such a board on a warm floor - it will crack, warp and peel off along with the leveler.

Ecopol board is a unique massive board. It can be installed in two main ways:

1. Modern floating method (on a substrate and staples). This is how parquet and laminate are laid.
2. In the traditional way (for plywood and glue). As well as block parquet, modular parquet and engineering board.

To choose the Ecopol installation method, you need to decide on the main advantages and features of each.

1. Laying a massive board on a substrate and brackets.

The floating method of laying Ecopol solid board allows you to get a floor that is 100% environmentally friendly, because. 100% natural solid wood. This means that you get a perfect natural material for its entire thickness.

The surface of the board is covered with OSMO oil, which is so safe for health that children's toys, furniture and countertops in the kitchen are covered with it.

Elastic staples do not just connect the boards to each other, like locks for parquet boards and laminates. But they also work in compression and tension with fluctuations in humidity.

Staples are made of resilient hardened steel, not pine or MDF, so they are many times more reliable and durable. Such steel is called spring, crossbow or aviation, it does not know aging or fatigue.

Such a floor is like a durable wooden carpet that can be taken apart and put back together with little to no loss. Floating laying allows the boards to move with seasonal fluctuations in humidity (winter-summer). It is in motion, as if floating above the base. The base material is not particularly important. The looseness of the boards to the base, the gaps along the perimeter allow the floor to become a single whole, reacting to changes and loads due to a change in the gap.

Thanks to the unique staples and floating installation, board splitting is virtually non-existent, even on underfloor heating. Floating laying is the most economical, because plywood, glue, primer are not needed, and the laying work itself is cheaper than traditional laying.

In case of redevelopment, you do not have to buy the floor again, because Ecopol can produce required amount boards of your design. Newly made boards will slightly differ in color from the old floor. But if you mix new ones with old ones, i.e. shift the parquet in the room, it will not be noticeable. Over time, the boards will become even in color and will not be noticeable at all.

Ecopol can even be transported with you to a new place of residence, because an oak massif over time only becomes stronger, harder and more stable.

This technique cannot be used in the case of gluing the array to plywood. In this case, the damaged boards can be carefully dismantled and new ones glued in. True, a new piece of the floor will stand out as a stain against the background of the main coating. It will also not work to shift or take away the glued floor with you.

Ecopol chose OSMO oil as the main finishing coat. On the one hand, such a floor must be monitored, periodically impregnated, saturating the wood with wax. But on the other hand, with regular care, such parquet will not need regrinding, which is accompanied by the removal of furniture, dust and the inability to use the premises for 3-4 days.

If the care of the floors is difficult, then order a PU-lacquer coating.

At the same time, there are a number of restrictions when laying solid Ekopol boards in a floating way. Since the flooring made of boards moves depending on the humidity of the air, becoming either larger or smaller, lay Ecopol in rooms wider than 7.5 m. recommended with additional thermal seam. It is recommended to separate rooms with unstable and uncontrolled humidity from each other with thresholds, which is inevitable with any floor covering with floating laying. It is recommended to install skirting boards with a floor overlap of 35 mm.

These requirements are precisely related to the fact that wood naturally expands with increasing air humidity and dries out when it decreases. If the humidity regime is not observed, then with significant shrinkage, filiform selective slits may appear. And with excessive moisture, the floor covering can rest against neighboring surfaces (walls, doors, pipes) and stand up as a "house". Fortunately, the processes of shrinkage and wetting in natural wood reversible.

When the air humidity normalizes, the boards and the flooring as a whole take on their original appearance thanks to the floating flooring and compression staples.

Staples pull the boards together with a force of about 30-35 kg for each bracket. Therefore, such a floor gives many times more uniform shrinkage or expansion with changes in humidity compared to traditional styling for plywood and glue.

Ecopol offers beautiful, reliable and simple solutions along skirting boards and thresholds.

Massive board on a warm floor can be laid

Massive board Ecopol can be safely laid in a floating way on heated floors of any kind - water and electric. Such an array is friendly with warm floors. We have been doing this since 2010. But only on brackets on the substrate - without fastening to the base! Can't be used on underfloor heating.

Moreover, when laying Ecopol on a warm floor, several additional advantages arise at once:

a solid oak board conducts heat much better than pine or plywood due to its high density
there is no risk of detachment and deformation of the upper decorative veneer
no hazardous substances are released into the air and there is no danger of aging of the adhesive line
in case of problems with the heating system, Ekopol can be disassembled, the defect or breakdown repaired and reassembled without loss
savings on additional materials and work for the benefit of their own health

Water heated floor wooden house best suited for floating oak parquet, as the wood of the house will also react to changes in air humidity. For this reason wooden parquet less affected by humidity.

It is better to choose a coating for a massive board - Osmo oil. Due to its plasticity, it does not crack when the board dries out during the heating period.

An example of laying a massive board Ecopol on heat-distributing plates of a water-heated floor

2. Laying a massive board on plywood and glue.

If the installation of docking profiles and wide skirting boards is categorically unacceptable, then it is better to glue the massive board to the base. It is not recommended to glue a solid board directly onto the screed. Laying plywood under the parquet is required.

In this case, a massive board can be laid in rooms with a width of more than 7 m. without transitional thresholds. However, cork compensators still cannot be avoided. They should be at the junctions with adjacent coatings to compensate for wood movements. When laying a massive board on plywood and glue, narrower skirting boards can be installed that overlap a 10-15 mm thermal seam. Thus, it is possible to obtain a single solid wood floor covering without thresholds, decorated with narrow skirting boards.

Such a floor will not move as a whole, but by boards separately, because each board has a strictly defined place. With shrinkage, the boards will become smaller and, remaining in place, can form cracks. When waterlogged, on the contrary, they will become a "house". With the normalization of air humidity, the boards tend to return to their original form.

Thus, the "behavior" of the wood itself is the same - when the humidity decreases, the board dries out, when moistened, the board expands. When laying floating (on brackets), the entire floor moves, and when gluing, each board (floor element) separately.

The adhesive method is not recommended for underfloor heating. There are two main reasons. Firstly, such a floor will inevitably give visible large cracks due to the drying of the floor. Secondly, the glue line will age quickly, and with a sharp difference in humidity during winter-summer periods, it will break. As a result, the board will begin to peel off the screed and lead to the complete dismantling of the coating.

The method of laying a massive board is easy to choose by prioritizing.

If the main thing is environmental friendliness, profitability and full maintainability from updating the coating without regrinding to new styling in a new place - choose floating stacking on staples. If the main thing is narrow baseboards and the absence of sills - choose laying on plywood and glue.

Whatever way of laying a massive board, and any other floor covering you have not chosen, the humidity regime must be observed. The requirements for solid boards, parquet and engineered boards, piece and modular parquet and laminate are the same - air humidity should be from 45 to 60%.

	ON STAPLES ON SUBSTRATE	ON PLYWOOD AND GLUE
Environmental friendliness	100% free of harmful substances and fumes	there are phenols, formaldehydes in plywood and adhesives
base	any even	increased requirements for the quality of the base
underfloor heating installation	YES	NO
disassemble and reassemble	YES	NO
replace a separate board, floor section	YES	YES
restoration, resurfacing	YES	YES
move to another place	YES	NO
adhesive seam aging	NO	YES
seasonal gap	NO	YES
works after a small leak	YES	YES
serves after flooding	YES	NO
thermal seams at the walls	10-15 mm	10-15 mm
thermal seams between rooms	recommended	recommended
non-threshold styling (maximum)	up to 7.5 m wide	up to 100 m2 area
plinth (floor width)	not less than 35 mm	not less than 18 mm
threshold	invoice 2-3 mm above the floor	cork, mastic in the level with the floor
laying speed (20 m2)	1 day	3 days
lay with your own hands	YES	NO
additional materials	540 r/m2	from 1350 r/m2
laying price in St. Petersburg	400 r/m2	from 900 r/m2

Photo instructions for laying on staples

Laying on a solid, even base in a floating way is carried out in accordance with the Technical Conditions for Ecopol.

The base must be dry (no more than 2% humidity) and even, the differences are not more than 2 mm on a two-meter rule. A screed or concrete base is best.

It is advisable to choose the direction of laying boards along the room, since significant wood shrinkage occurs only across the fibers. Leave gaps between the walls and the floor: when laying from March to August (conditionally summer without heating) 7-10 mm and gaps 10-15 mm from September to February (conditionally winter with heating).

To ensure that the board with which you finish laying is not already 3-4 cm, carry out a verification calculation.

When laying on logs, the distance between their axes should be no more than 40 cm. The end connections of the boards should lie on the logs or jumpers.

Use an underlay made of cross-linked polyethylene foam 2-3 mm thick, for example, Penolon Premium PPE 7002, 9002. It is absolutely impossible to use a cork underlay due to its high surface friction and low elasticity. Screw the self-tapping screw into the hole closest to the horizontal antennae of the clover. (Fig. 1)

a) the spring tongues of the “cleavers” are transferred to the mounting position (Fig. 1), after which they are screwed to the boards in increments of 30-35 cm. The extreme “cleavers” are installed no further than 20 cm from the ends of the boards;

b) the first row of boards is laid out along the wall on the substrate;

c) the row is leveled and wedges are installed in the gap between the board and the wall in increments of 30-35 cm;

d) lubricate the edge and end spikes with anti-creak sealant (Fig. 2);

e) the boards are tightly rallied along the edge and ends and leveled in a horizontal plane using a finisher, a hammer and flat pads, for example, strips of hardboard or plywood 3-10 mm thick;

f) now press the board above the clover until the tongues are released, which is indicated by characteristic clicks. (Fig. 2);

g) carefully control the snapping of the "cleavers" with your hands.

h) fasten the plinth fillet to the wall (Fig. 4)
The limitation on the width of the flooring is for oak board 7 m.p. Premises with a width of more than 7 r.m. should be separated by an additional technical gap. The rooms are separated from each other by an expansion joint (technological gap), which is subsequently covered by a plinth and a threshold.

Remember: a floating solid wood floor will certainly shrink and swell by about 1 cm per 1 meter of floor width, so observe the optimal mode of operation of the room: temperature 18-26 ° C and humidity 45-60%, put furniture legs on felt linings, restore in a timely manner coating, do not overload the floor.

Click on the photo - under each there is a description of the stages of laying Ecopol.

French run-up

If you experience difficulties in assembly, please seek advice.

Photo instructions for laying on logs.

Laying on logs Laying on logs

Laying on plywood

Ecopol massive board is specially designed for laying in a floating way on any even base, including heated bases. But it can also be laid in the traditional way on plywood with full gluing to the base. Keep in mind that it is not recommended to glue a massive board on warm floors!!!

For flooring boards with full adhesion to the base, choose plywood with a thickness of 2/3 of the thickness of the flooring. If there are no communications at the base, then the plywood is glued to the base and additionally attached to a pair of self-tapping screws and dowels.

If communications lie at the base, then plywood is necessarily sawn into 6-8 parts and only glued. In this case, during the stabilization of the glue, it is necessary to additionally load the plywood. At the same time, priming of the base before plywood flooring is mandatory.

Before laying a massive board, plywood must be sanded and vacuumed.

If for the selected adhesive it is necessary to prime the surface, this must be done.

Only 2-component or 1-component polyurethane-based hybrid adhesives are used for gluing natural wood solids. No other types of glue can be used!!!

Those. the gap (thermal seams) between the wall and the boards should be from 10 to 15 mm (it is fixed with special wedges). A seam is also required where the board joins doors, heating pipes, etc. In rooms with a large area, the width of the expansion joint must be increased at the rate of - for 1 m of the width of the room, approximately 2 mm of the width of the structural joint. In this case, it is recommended to produce flooring separately in each room, leaving expansion joint on the threshold lines, which is then covered with special thresholds. Flooring is best done along the line of natural light so that small differences in the height of the boards are invisible. Then the entire parquet flooring will look uniform and monolithic.

The glue is applied so that the seams between the plywood squares are completely glued; the board is glued to at least 80% of its area.

It is necessary to try to make the flooring in such a way that the glue does not get into the tenon-groove of the boards, because. due to its density, excessive gaps may form.

The flooring of the boards starts from the wall, with the ridge to the wall, towards itself - with a groove, so that fasteners (self-tapping screws, screws) can be driven into the groove. On a 1-bar, on average, 1-2 pieces of fasteners are consumed at the end, depending on the width, and 2 pieces along the length for each meter of length. If the fasteners are installed in the comb, then they are respectively laid with the comb towards themselves.

After applying the glue to the plywood, it is necessary to attach the board, press it firmly and fix it with fasteners.

The floor can be walked on 24-48 hours after the end of the flooring, depending on the humidity of the air and the curing time of the adhesive.

Floors can be used three days after completion of work.

When installing the boards, the master, no matter how hard he tries, inevitably touches the adhesive layer and stains the surface of the board. Excess glue or traces of glue that appear on the surface during laying must be immediately removed clean, first with a cleaner suitable for this glue and, above all, for coating, and then with a damp cloth. If the glue is not removed in time and it is completely dry, it cannot be mechanically cleaned off, because. the board surface will be damaged! In this case, try using an adhesive softener first (if the manufacturer has one) or replace the board.

After laying, possible small gaps caused by regulatory tolerances for the manufacture of products and deviation from the plane of the base can be treated with a special wood sealant based on acrylate to match the tone of the rock (silicone or other sealants cannot be used). Remove excess sealant immediately with a damp cloth. If the color of the wood is specific, then the already dried sealant is tinted with a felt-tip pen, which, having been absorbed, is not washed off during cleaning.

Then the doors are installed, the thresholds and skirting boards are installed.

Types and preparation of substrates for laying

Solid wood floors can be laid in any premises: wooden and stone private houses, as well as in apartments of high-rise brick, panel or monolithic concrete houses. The basis for the floor can be:

reinforced concrete slabs interfloor floors;
load-bearing metal or wooden structures- lags;
supporting pillars of the first floor of a private house;
old wooden floors.

In all these cases, the same solid board laying technology is used, but the preparation of each type of base has its own distinctive features.

The concrete base, if required, is leveled with cement-sand screed.

Important: it is recommended to lay solid wood floors on fresh concrete only 2.5-3 months after pouring. The degree of readiness of the base is checked by firmly pressing a small sheet of polyethylene to the surface. If no condensation has settled on the side of the film adjacent to the concrete after 48 hours, the subfloor is suitable for continued flooring work.

A vapor barrier layer of polyethylene foam or ground mastic is laid on a dry and even base. The polyethylene film can be overlapped or butted, gluing the panels with construction tape.

On top of the vapor barrier layer, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid, previously sawn along the smaller side into strips 40-60 cm wide. Fragments of the plywood base are laid diagonally or in a checkerboard pattern so that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between them, and a gap of about 10 cm remains between the outer sheet of plywood and the wall. Having laid the plywood base, it is firmly fixed to concrete using screws with dowels based on 15 attachment points per 1 sq.m. Screw heads are recessed to a depth of 3-4 mm.

A solid board no thicker than 25 mm can be laid on a concrete base

If ground mastic is used as a vapor barrier layer, the plywood base can be glued. To do this, the mastic is diluted with a solvent to the optimum consistency, applied to concrete, and prepared plywood sheets are glued to it, applying adhesive compatible with the mastic.

Important: on a plywood base laid on concrete, you can lay solid wood floors if its thickness does not exceed 25 mm.

Bearing base on logs

The bearing base on the logs is used when arranging the floor in new houses with a very uneven concrete base, floors per support pillars on the first floors private houses, and also in cases where it is planned to use solid wood boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm as a finishing coating. The arrangement of the supporting base on the logs is very popular, since the design does not require operations with water, subsequent drying and is mounted quite quickly.

Preparation of the bearing base on the logs: plywood flooring on the already arranged and leveled log structure

Logs are wooden rectangular bars, usually with a section of 50x55 mm and a length of 70-100 cm. They are fixed to a concrete or other base with screws with dowels perpendicular to the direction of the board of the future floor. The lag step, as a rule, is 25-30 cm, and the distance between adjacent attachment points to the base is at least 50 cm.

A layer of mineral wool is laid in the space between the lags, which simultaneously performs the function of thermal insulation and noise protection, which is especially important for the first floors. A layer of vapor barrier material is laid on top of the log and fixed with a construction stapler, and finally a black floor of moisture-resistant plywood is laid - the basis for laying the board.

An existing wood floor can serve as a base for laying a solid board, if there is a strong confidence in its strength. Otherwise, it is better to dismantle it and create a new modern base. If there is no doubt, the old floor is polished grinder, having installed a coarse sanding belt, carefully clean it of dust and lay a waterproofing layer of ordinary or foamed polyethylene.

The massive board in this case is laid in the same direction as the boards of the main floor. If a different direction of finish is expected, a layer of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of approximately 12-15 mm is laid on top of the sanded existing base floor.

Before laying a massive board, the plywood base is sanded and dust is removed.

Thus, regardless of the design of the floor base, its finishing layer is waterproof plywood. Before laying the final solid flooring, the plywood rough floor is sanded with a grinder and dust is removed.

Installation methods: glue and glueless

A floor board made of solid natural wood is laid with an adhesive or adhesive-free method. With the use of glue, a board of precious wood is laid, which, as a rule, is thinner than common species, and its length rarely exceeds 2 m - the high price affects. Also preferred adhesive method laying a solid board when arranging the floor in rooms with a very large area or a complex irregular contour, as well as in very small areas, for example, in the area of door and arched openings.

A solid board of precious wood is laid on the glue, not very thick and not very long.

At adhesive laying solid board floorboards are glued to the base with special glue, tightly joined together in the transverse and longitudinal directions and attached to the base at the side joints with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 °, sinking the hats to a depth of 3-5 mm.

The solid wood floor glued to the base is resistant to seasonal deformations, durable, it does not need expansion joints. At the same time, it is very capricious at temperatures and humidity above the permissible and is not at all suitable as a finishing floor covering in heating systems"warm floor". Finally, to replace even a small damaged area, it is necessary to completely dismantle the entire floor laid on the adhesive.

The more modern glue-free method of laying solid board is easy to perform and is always used when working with products equipped with lock system"thorn-groove".

On the eve of the start of flooring work, a massive board should be brought into the room, removed from the package, stacked and left for 3-5 days. This is necessary in order for the material to accept temperature and humidity. environment and subsequently did not deform during the operation of the floor.

Laying a massive board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional

If the base for the floor is properly prepared and high-quality material is selected, laying a massive board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional. Manufacturers recommend laying solid wood boards at a relative humidity of no more than 60% and an air temperature of 10-30°C. Most often, a massive board is laid parallel to the direction of light from the illuminated window itself, but any other solutions are possible, for example, diagonally.

Laying the first row of floorboards begins along the longest wall, parallel to the axis of the floor, with a spike to the wall, leveled and fixed with self-tapping screws so that they can be closed with a plinth. The side of the board opposite the wall is fixed to the base or joists by screwing the self-tapping screw into the groove at an angle of 45 °. Fixation to the base is carried out with wood screws, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the board.

Each floorboard must be fixed on all adjacent logs

Important: Each floorboard must be fixed on all the logs with which it comes into contact.

Each next row of boards is placed with a spike in the groove of the board of the previous row, not forgetting to fasten it to the base with self-tapping screws. For the most snug fit of the floorboards to each other, they are adjusted with the help of blocks. The last row of boards, like the first, is fixed to the base with self-tapping screws so that they can be hidden under the plinth. A temperature gap of 8-10 mm is left between the extreme rows of floorboards and walls.

Solid wood finish

If a solid board with a factory-applied finish was used for the floor, the floor can be used immediately after installation. In the case of using an untreated solid board, the newly laid floor should “settle” for about a week, then it is sanded and coated with two layers of varnish to prevent the wood from drying out or waterlogging.

Mandatory grinding a floor made of natural wood is also subject, if the difference in the thickness of two adjacent boards exceeds the allowable 0.5 mm and is noticeable. The solid board is sanded along the fibers using an abrasive belt with a grain of 0.15 mm. If defects, dents, burrs appear on the surface of the floorboards during installation, they should be puttied, sanded and only then varnished.

After laying, the solid board floor is varnished or impregnated with oils and waxes.

Lovers of natural wood floor can use special oil-wax compositions for wood coating. Products based on natural oils and wax, unlike varnishes, impregnate the solid board throughout its entire thickness, creating the thinnest protective film on the surface. Such a coating effectively accentuates the natural texture of wood, while protecting it from damage by insects, mold or fungi.

The practicality of a massive board as a floor covering has been proven by centuries of trouble-free service, it is beautiful, effective, respectable. Despite the venerable age of use, a solid wood board never goes out of fashion, lends itself to any type of processing, up to artificial aging, so popular with designers when creating interiors in the vintage style.

Laying a solid board begins with an assessment of the base and the choice of method for its preparation. Installation can be carried out different ways depending on specific circumstances. Although the work requires a significant amount of time and effort, they can be done exclusively with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

Before laying a massive board, it is necessary to prepare the selected material:

Attention! Together with a massive floor board, all materials involved in the laying procedure are kept under similar conditions.

Rough surface requirements

It is necessary to lay a massive board on a carefully prepared base that meets the following requirements:

If the necessary conditions met, you can proceed to the next step.

Methods for laying massive boards

There are two main mounting methods: with secure fixation to various types bases, where glue, screws and staples act as fasteners, or by a floating method - when only a locking system is used for connection.

Most of the solid board models are connected by two types of locks

On a note! It is necessary to carefully approach the choice of glue for a massive board. So, for a concrete base, a special two-component composition with high adhesion, and for wooden flooring, one-component is suitable, but not on water based(subject to additional fixation with brackets or self-tapping screws).

Laying the array on a concrete or cement-sand screed

Works with cement or concrete screed begin after the base has dried, for this the percentage is initially determined residual moisture. This is easier to do with a special device, but it is not practical to purchase it for a single use, so you can use another method.

Only special equipment can give the exact level of concrete moisture.

At a short distance, 4 holes are drilled in the shape of a square, they are immediately covered with dense polyethylene and pressed from all sides. After 24-48 hours, the presence of condensate is checked: even a small amount of it indicates a residual moisture content of more than 6%, which suggests the use of waterproofing. The floor must not be equipped with additional heating.

The process of laying an array on a screed without plywood is as follows:

Trimming in progress electric drill or saw, the edge is processed with a file.

Mounting on plywood

This option is used in situations where the base has significant irregularities. Also, the method is suitable for laying material from valuable tree species on logs that does not have the required thickness.

Plywood for screed

The process of preparing a screed with serious irregularities for laying an array is as follows:

Be sure to pre-treat the screed with antiseptics, and if necessary, waterproofing is laid.

After installation, plywood flooring must be sanded well.

On the wooden floor

If the coating is in good condition, then the preparation takes place according to the scheme:

All unnecessary is removed, the old decorative layer is removed, the surface is polished.
The condition of the boards and the log is assessed. If there is damage, then the worn elements should be replaced.
The old wooden flooring is fixed to the joists with new self-tapping screws.
Plywood must be laid according to the same principle as in the previous version. But only self-tapping screws are used for fastening.

Old wooden floor should be leveled with plywood flooring

Upon completion of preparation massive parquet can be glued and put on screws.

By lags

This technology is used if it becomes necessary to lay additional insulation or communications. It is also a good option for apartments with a very uneven rough screed.

You can independently prepare the base for the array as follows:

Logs are set according to the level. It is necessary to achieve perfect evenness; for this, a system of securely fixed compensation pads is used.
Sheets of plywood are laid on top and screwed with self-tapping screws, the hats are recessed.
The coating is sanded and cleaned of dirt.
Decorative material is laid on top across the lag.

Installation of flooring on logs allows you to insulate the floor and conduct communications under it

In exceptional cases and with a significant thickness of the boards, installation can be carried out directly on the logs. But it will take longer and more complex preparation, and the process itself requires appropriate experience, therefore it is not suitable for doing it yourself.

Scheme of mounting a solid board on logs

Regardless of the method of preparation, laying a solid board on plywood has common technology:

When docking, the slats are tightly knocked out in rows

To beautifully perform the installation, the scheme is thought out in advance, but it will be extremely difficult to perfectly combine the pattern of the tree.

"Floating" solid floor

Flooring in a floating way is carried out if available installed system underfloor heating or if the humidity in the room can change by more than 5-10%. The technology of the method lies in the fact that the fragments are placed on a special substrate and are fixed only among themselves. Also, gaps of 5-10 mm are left from the wall.

Action algorithm:

Markup is performed, the order and layout of the first row is determined.
The underlayment is laid.
The initial details are fixed in a locking way. To exclude their shift, the size of the gap from the walls is set; for this, solid wedges are used.
The second and subsequent rows are additionally fixed with staples (self-tapping screws) or glue, which is used to coat the lock. But in the second option, it will be impossible to disassemble the floor to replace damaged parts.

Floating mounting method implies the presence of a soft substrate

Due to this technology, ultimate flexibility is provided, but a perfectly flat base is required.

Sanding and protective coating

If the applied material has not been processed earlier, then after a week the following actions are additionally performed:

The surface is scraped with a hand or electric tool. If the coating is in perfect condition, then only grinding is performed.
The floor is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.
Various compositions are used to protect and enhance the decorative effect: stains, oils, varnishes. The desired option is selected based on specific situation and desired effect. Greater reliability is created by varnish, which is applied with a spray gun in 2-5 layers. If you want to change the shade of the tree, then a suitable stain is used. Oils enhance and highlight the natural color of the material.

If necessary, the massive board is varnished

Should know! Only products installed on glue and self-tapping screws are processed; the process is not suitable for the “floating” method.

A combination of oils and varnish is not allowed, it is applied only as an independent protective and decorative layer or after staining.

The floor covering in the room plays the most important role. And therefore it is necessary that it be not only beautiful, but also functional, as well as with high strength. Therefore, the process of designing the floor must be given special attention.

Nowadays, many choose a massive parquet board for flooring. As a rule, such material is both durable and beautiful. Apart from right choice, you still need to be able to put such a board on the floor with high quality. In conditions of constantly changing humidity and room temperatures, a good option is to lay a massive board on plywood with your own hands.

Preparation of tools and materials

In order for the laying of a massive board to be carried out optimally correctly, you need to know the order of the steps. Before you implement them, you must immediately prepare all materials and tools for work. Be aware that what better material is selected, the more reliable the coating will be and the longer it will last indoors. So, you will need:

Tools necessary for work: a screwdriver, a hammer, a construction knife, a building level, a set of dowels.

Moisture-resistant thick plywood, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich in the bag should be equal to the floor area in the room. The thickness of the plywood should be about 15mm;

massive parquet board;
long ruler and pencil;
construction knife;
waterproofing film for additional protection;
a set of screws;
a set of dowels;
concrete mix for screed;
long straight bar for leveling the screed;
special wood glue for plywood;
Sander;
screwdriver;
hammer;
tassel;
building level;
sandpaper;
soft dry cloth.

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Screed and plywood for work

When everything is ready for work, you can proceed with the installation.

Laying a massive board is carried out in 3 main steps: this is the preparation of a cement base, laying plywood on it with its subsequent processing, as well as installing a laminate board on plywood.

Let's analyze each stage in turn.

At first rough coating the floor is freed from all kinds of debris and thoroughly dried. When this is done, it is advisable on the wall near the floor in some places to mark the level to which the screed should reach. In this case, you need to use a tape measure and a building level to make the markings even.

Now take cement mixture and dilute it with water in the right proportions to end up with a thick screed solution. Mix the mixture thoroughly and start pouring the floor. Follow the markings carefully so as not to pour out the solution more than necessary. During the process, immediately level the coating with the prepared long plank. When all this is ready, leave the floor to dry and set - you need to give about a week, but not less than that. After all, the complete drying of the floor layers is a very important point, on which the resistance of the coating to the formation of fungus will depend.

In the meantime, while the screed is finally setting, start preparing the plywood sheets. You need to cut them into equal parts, the width of which should be approximately 55 cm. Try to work so that the cuts are as even and smooth as possible. But if this is not always possible to achieve, then it is advisable to sand these places with coarse-grained sandpaper or, in extreme cases, lightly grind with a grinder.

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Mounting and processing

Plywood is laid either perpendicularly or diagonally with respect to the future massive parquet board. Before direct laying, a layer is placed on the dried screed waterproofing film, and you can already put plywood on it. To keep it as tight as possible, you need to pre-lubricate the surface of the sheets from the wrong side with glue, press it tightly over the entire surface to the floor, and then additionally fix it with screws with a screwdriver. Just drive the dowels into the screed in advance - this way the plywood will hold on even stronger, and the screed will be more intact.

When laying plywood on the floor, it is very important to remember the gaps that need to be made to prevent deformation and displacement of the coating in the future. So, it is advisable to leave gaps of about 8 mm along the perimeter of the wall, and between plywood sheets- about 2 mm. As a rule, under the influence of a temperature difference, a shift will occur anyway, but this will allow the material to go, as a result of which you will be able to avoid “raising” the floor.

But that is not all. Laying solid boards should be carried out on a pre-treated and even surface. For this purpose, a special grinding machine is used. After careful processing, dust is wiped off the plywood surface with a dry cloth, after which you can proceed to the final last stage of work - laying the board.

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Solid board laying

Laying a massive board is made to the base of the floor using special glue and self-tapping screws. Only in this case, you need to make sure that the glue does not get on the front of the boards, since it will be quite problematic to clean it later.

First you need to mount the array boards, starting from the side of any wall. In this case, first the board from the side of application to the floor is smeared with glue, then placed on plywood, pressed well and fixed along the edge with self-tapping screws. It is very important to observe at least approximately the same step between the screws, which should be about 25 cm. This will ensure optimal evenness of the coating. And the board will not warp over time.

So gradually the whole floor is done. There is no special need to make gaps here. In the event that during the installation of the last planks it turns out that their width is too large and does not allow the array to be laid normally, you need to cut off the unnecessary part. This is done in the same way as during installation. floor tiles. This completes the laying of the massive board.