Waterproofing OSB in the bathroom. Bathroom in a frame house: how to hydroize the floor and how to insert a ladder. Sealing and reinforcement of compensatory seams

For repair and construction work, the material that appeared on the market is relatively recently used in the market (OSB, if you use the English abbreviation). This allows you to get significant areas in size with an even, very strong foundation, while saving temporary and money resources. To preserve the appearance, operational qualities should be known than to cover the OSB slab outside and from the inside.

Where they use panels

Today, OSB plates are widely used:

construction works;
production of furniture, containers;
finishing the bodies of trucks from the inside.

Not all applications require mandatory material processing. The most acute need and at the same time the complexity of the holding is under such types of work:

floor device;
external lining of frame structures;
installation indoors of overlaps, partitions.

Under the legs

Any finishing of the floor requires a perfectly smooth base. With this task, the OSB-3 plates are performed in the best (digit means the number of layers). This type of material is strong enough, opposes the effects of moisture, is equally easily fit both on wooden lags and on a tie of concrete.

The floor type determines how the coating will be used to cover the OSB plate:

Rolled materials. Before covering the surface of the floor with carpet or linoleum, you should make sure that where the plates are connected to each other, there are no minor roughness, irregularities. The discovered gaps are filled with a selence on silicone basis, after which it is thoroughly cleaned.
Varnish. Coloring OSB panels should be made in several (at least two or three) layers, the surface should be degreased. If it is not supposed to close the floor in the future, you should give preference to polished, smooth plates. If unwanted material was used, it should be preached, and then primed. Treatment with varnish allows to obtain a surface with the full preservation of the structure of the OSB, but at the same time devoid of irregularities.
Tile. Installation will require the presence of glue suitable for gluing wooden surfaces with ceramics.
Laminate. This type of flooring requires the perfect, in terms of evenness, base. Provided that the OSB plates are laid according to the rules, it is easy to achieve.

Internal partitions

In the manufacture of OSB, a variety of binders are used, which come, if you apply finishing materials without preprocessing. Therefore, a special impregnation is preceded by a special impregnation - primer. It is important to know that in some cases added as one of the binders of paraffin or wax. Such plates should be pre-covered with special primer paint. It has a quartz sand that holds the elements of the coating.

After the preparatory work, OSB plates placed indoors can be covered by any facing plan material:

Varnish. The coating of the inner surfaces is not different from the process of the floor device.
. It is necessary to give preference to paintwork material, which has a water basis. This component improves steam circulation through the plates. Accordingly, inside the room creates a qualitatively different microclimate. Paints should be designed to work with wood. It is important to remember that the water-level paints and varnish materials can lead to the swelling of the chips and, consequently, the deformation of the slab.
Wallpaper. Direct stagnation is impossible due to the high probability of the integrity of the OSB. To avoid this, before fixing the wallpapers, the wall should be coated with a mixture of PVA and the wallpaper glue.

Finishing of external surfaces

The use of OSB as a material for outdoor clamping requires strict compliance with the rules that are dictated by the characteristics of the material. Experts in the presence of features are offered to use traditional materials to finish outside:

siding;
lining;
clinker tiles.

The use of OSB for finishing works outside is often dictated by the need to obtain the result quickly and with minimal financial and temporal costs. In such cases, the most common finishing option is painting.

For external work it is better to choose dyes that are designed to handle wood outside.

It is important to consider such moments:

OSB ends are extremely vulnerable, so it is recommended to fill all the gaps with acrylic sealant.
Sharp edges, edges should have roundings with a radius of 3 mm - so the paint will be evenly distributed over the surface.
All surfaces are preloaded. If materials containing water are used, the slab should be pulled out after complete coating drying.
Paint should be applied in layers, waiting for drying each layer. It is better to give preference to oil species of paintwork to avoid deformation.

Thus, in order to treat oriented chip panels, regardless of the use of the floor (setting of gender, partitions, replacing walls), you can use the same materials from the finishing family as when processing the board of the wood array. For example, to protect them with moisture, they are covered with varnish. At the same time, the panels have more advantages, if compared with other finishing materials. This is the optimal and inexpensive solution for the device of various building structures.

Hello! We draw a bathroom on the second floor of a frame house. I want to install in the floor to exclude the possibility of flooding at home if the household does not close the water. Paul - lags, I plan to lay OSB on top. On top I want to lay a tile. Tell me, the better to make waterproofing and how to install the ladder, because under the plywood sheets do not cut out when they are asked. Thank you.

Hello.

The question of the strength of the structure we deliberately bypass: we hope that you tetate the weight of the tile and plumbing, which will have to carry the wooden overlap. For rigidity of the frame, we recommend connecting the logs between them with transverse bars, OSB use a thickness of at least 22 mm. The solution to install an emergency trapp in the floor is absolutely correct. In addition to reducing the risk, fill the floors and the first floor, it will make it easier for cleaning. In order for the ladder to complete his destination, the floor in the bathroom should be a pair of centimeters lower than in adjacent rooms.

How to install a ladder in the floor by lagas

You need to purchase a floor ladder with a wide reference platform, which can be fixed. It should also be adjusted in height so that it can be set it exactly in accordance with the floor level.

"Right" ladder of the German manufacturer Viega, model 583224

Before mounting OSB, the ladder must be fully prepared: collect the sewage in the floor, connect the tap for the ladder, install it on the planned location and mark

Now it needs to be fixed in height. To do this, cut out of the sheet of plywood or OSB thickness of at least 12 mm (if the step between lags is more than 40 cm, the plywood should be thicker) the rectangle that should fit between the lags. In the place where the ladder should be located, and cut the hole in the visor

Put the bars on the lags, we have them below the top of the lag on the thickness of the sheet

We apply to the ring-shaped platform of the Silicone Sealant, do not regret

We press the ladder to the plywood, without forgetting to combine pre-drawn axis. Fix self-drawing

We screw the Fanoire along with the lad, pre-gather the sewage. Ready, you can roll OSB

How to make waterproofing on OSB sheets

OSB sheets should be put up to the rotor so that the joints do not coincide. Between them, as well as around the perimeter of the walls, leaving the gaps of 3-4 mm, which we advise you to fill with silicone sealant.

Reliable (and more expensive, of course) put OSB in two layers

Sheets can not be attached close to each other and the wall. You should leave the slit 3-4 mm and fill them with sealant

Now you need to choose the type of waterproofing material. We do not recommend using the usual bitumen mastic and rolled materials, the tile on the bituminous surface should not be kept. We offer to consider two options:

Polymer (not confused with bitumen-polymer) waterproofing. For the bathroom it is worth choosing a non-expensive membrane, but relatively cheap mastic. Such formulations, as a rule, have a water base, are applied by a conventional spatula or brush. Create a solid elastic film.

Many grades of polymer mastics have a rich blue color, it is explained by the fact that they are used for waterproofing bowls

Cement-polymer waterproofing is a dry mix that is also applied to a spatula or brush. On the cement base, the tile will be glued well. It is worth it a little cheaper than polymer.

It should be borne in mind that standard cement-polymer isolation is inelastic and in the case of deformation of the base may crack. There are its types that have a property stretch, but such two-component mixtures are more complicated in work and quite expensive. We recommend on the perimeter of the walls to lay a special rubber rubber tape, it is at the junction of the floor and the walls there are basic deformations.

The rubber ribbon is glued to the polymer grid. It does not need to glue the elastic tape itself, only the mesh is glued on the pre-applied layer of cement-polymer waterproofing, one more is applied.

Regardless of what type of waterproofing you choose, we recommend that you also apply the composition of the lower part of the walls and in zones that are constantly subjected to moisturies.

Most likely, to cover the frame walls, you will use moisture-resistant drywall or GWL, but waterproofing, in addition to the floor, wet wall areas will not precisely

You can lay the tile, do not forget to make a small slope to the ladder.

During the cladding of the floor with ceramic tiles, you can give your bathroom additional comfort, placing in a layer of tiled glue mats with a warm electric cable for a warm floor

The level of layout and arrangement of the bathroom in a frame or chopped house allows you to judge how comfortable is a long stay in such a room. Often the bathroom and the bathroom are the most problematic sections of a wooden building. To protect the support beams, lags, flooring, which are subjected to the greatest risk of winding and rotting, it will take a fairly effective waterproofing of the wooden floor in the bathroom. In conditions, when the capabilities of the ventilation and heating system are not enough, or the room is located on the ground floor, with the intensive arrival of moisture from the soil, will need a full waterproofing of the bathroom in a wooden house.

Waterproofing materials

For each specific building, with its architecture and layout, specialists are selected the optimal scheme of bathroom waterproofing in a wooden house. The universal recipe does not exist, so several types of insulation materials have been developed for the construction of effective protection, each of which has its advantages and disadvantages:

Bituminous and mastic coating compositions. Waterproofing is performed by applying viscous bitumen mastic on all basic elements of wooden structures. After drying, a dense elastic layer of bitumen modified by butyl-styrene copolymer is formed;
Painting materials of deep impregnation, most often on an organic basis. Applied by a pulverizer or brush to the surface of the wooden structures of the floor and walls of the building. Purify water-repellent properties and simultaneously protect against pathogenic microflora and insects;
Glass-based rolled materials and bitumen. Used only as an intermediate waterproofing on a concrete or panel surface;
Elastic membranes based on polyurethanes and polyurea. Such a coating for sanitary standards can be used as a waterproofing of any interior of a wooden house.

For your information! In addition to the listed, bulk floors on an epoxy or polyurethane based on waterproofing can be used. Acrylic or cement-containing materials for waterproofing wooden structures are practically not used.

Separately, it is worth mentioning several natural waterproofing options: concrete clay, asphalt and haudron mixtures, extruded powder rubber, a wivid resin, tar and much more, which is often represented by fighters for ecology as environmentally friendly materials. The logic of sellers of such recipes is extremely simple - for an environmentally friendly wooden house, waterproofing should also be eco-friendly.

In fact, all listed materials for the "natural" waterproofing of the floor not only represent a certain risk due to the high content of carcinogens, but also are extremely short-lived. If you wish, the clay of special brands or liquid glass can be used to protect the stone cold floor on the ground-based basis, for waterproofing the wooden floor in the bathroom from groundwater and moisture, but not for internal protection against the impact of a wet atmosphere.

Waterproofing technology inside bathroom

The use of modern materials allows to obtain a very high level of waterproofing of wooden walls and floor, even in conditions of almost 100% humidity and in the presence of a water film on an outdoor coating. Any form of waterproofing is almost never a finish coating, especially if we are talking about the bathroom in a wooden house.

The process of arranging waterproofing consists of four stages:

Smooth isolation arrangement;
Repair and restoration of carrying wooden floor structures;
Laying the first layer of waterproofing, plastering walls of the bathroom with plasterboard or OSB plates;
Casting a concrete screed or bulk floor - levelover;
Applying finishing waterproofing;
Laying the ceramic tiles on the elastic tile glue, sealing the joints and plinth epoxy grout.

For your information! For bathrooms of a wooden house, a golden rule should be performed - waterproofing should be double and be sure to protect the floor as an inside of the room and on the reverse side.

The exceptions are bathrooms, equipped on the second floors of wooden houses. In this case, the basis of the floor is made of pressed plates, packets from a bar or water-resistant plasterboard sheets. The finishing waterproofing is applied to the projected wooden surface of the walls and the floor, after which it is possible to glue a tile.

First stage of arrangement of waterproofing bathroom with wooden floor

The favorite location of the bathroom in the brusade or chopped house is the corner premises of the first floor. In such a layout option in a wooden house, it is easier to organize drainage and hot water supply. If the house is built from a bar or logs, the room under the bathroom will have to be seriously converted. It is not only about the fact that the cardinal alteration of floors and waterproofing will be required, it will be necessary for the brusade walls to be treated with hydrophobic impregnation by type of ticcurils, to lay a film waterproofing, insulation and carry out the walls of the walls with plasterboard sheets.

Waterproofing of the wooden floor in the bathroom under the tile begins with styling inner insulation and insulating materials. For this, the board boards are removed, part of the soil under the laying of the sand layer, the thick polyethylene film and the heater layer are removed.

If under the bathroom is a basement, the water waterproofing can be performed using rolled roofing materials. Previously, an additional concrete screed and surface treatment with primer is pre-dried. Traditionally, the rubberoid canvas laid onto the concrete surfacing, but in the conditions of a wooden house for waterproofing of the floor in the room usually use molten mastic. All wooden parts of the base of the floor, including lags and beams of overlapping, are treated with coating waterproofing or roofing mastic.

After the stickers of the polystyrene foam insulation, the floor surface is poured by a layer of the level, only so you can ideally align the plane under the laying of the tile. If you wish, you can put plasterboard plates or OSB. If the bathroom room is located on the second-third floors, then the finishing waterproofing can be applied to the wooden floor peeled and contaminants.

Stage second, applying finishing waterproofing

The highest quality of waterproofing coating, which ensures reliable protection of wooden walls and gender, can be obtained using a HIDROFLEX paste-sealant brand of litocol or similar polyuctural resins. The material is a thick viscous mass of odorless, non-toxic, not requiring hardeners or polymerizers. The paste can be applied to the prepared surface with a roller or a wide spatula.

Properly selected primer provides a solid adhesion of the elastic waterproofing layer, a thickness of from 1 to 5 mm, with concrete, dry-coaltonal, wooden base. Depending on the air temperature, the material dries from 10 to 20 hours.

The concrete tie of the floor and plasterboard walls of the bathroom are pre-covered with primer. When choosing a primer brand, you need to be attentive, since not all primer mixtures are suitable and interchangeable for waterproofing materials from different manufacturers. After 40 minutes after the priming, you can apply a paste. Previously at the corners and joints of walls with a floor stick to the paste an elastic ribbon. Separately, all the conclusions and sewage conclusions are seized, any ledges and bends of the walls are sampled with a ribbon at the joints of the brass.

After the stickers of the ribbons, you can start waterproofing the walls and the floor of the bathroom. The material is applied at a temperature of from 5 to 40 ° C, after drying, the elastic coating retains insulating properties from minus 20 ° C to 170 o C. This means that the tile pasted on the finishing layer in the bathroom of the unheated giving will not fall off even in the winter.

Mass consumption is 1.3-1.5 kg / m 2. The paste is applied in two layers, an initial layer of 1-2 mm rolling with a roller on the walls of the bathroom, then the floor cover. After drying the first layer, a second layer of material is applied. After applying two layers, the thickness of waterproofing is 3-4 mm, which is more than enough for the bathroom and even mini-pool.

The waterproofing layer of the floor in the bathroom of the frame wooden house remains elastic throughout the service life, but it cannot be used as a final coating, when walking the layer is quickly engaged and peeled from the base.

After 25-30 hours after applying, the paste can be processed to the sticker of the ceramic tile. To lay the floor covering on the surface of the type of Hidroflex, it is necessary to use elastic tiled glue grades, the usual cement or gypsum solution will be unnecessarily rigid.

Conclusion

Interputer seams and angular joints are necessarily subject to epoxy resin. The main advantage of use for waterproofing of polyurea resins is highly elasticity and strength. Wooden house for 3-5 years since the construction gives shrinkage and "breathes", so it is possible to ensure reliable insulation on the "playing" joints and seams in this way.

Modern construction technologies, like any other, allow you to equip the bathroom with the same full-fledged as in a block or brick house. For such buildings, there are no special limitations regarding the use of finishing materials and engineering systems. In such a house, the bathroom can be located on the first floor, and on the second, and even on the third. The use of new production technologies, improved for, allow you to do this. Nevertheless, the first floor, near the carrier wall is an ideal place to arrange a bathroom.

From above, it is covered with waterproofing, covering the lower part of the walls. Outwardly, it looks like a trough. From above, this sandwich is again poured by concrete, which will be attached to the tile of.

The design of such a floor is distinguished by a significant weight - up to 200 kg per square. meter. This should be remembered when designing, calculating the number and productivity of the ceiling beams.

Do it yourself: an example of bathroom waterproofing

It is simpler and, accordingly, a slightly less qualitative way of waterproofing for a wooden house. It consists in the fact that on, right on the board, the canvas of the plastic linoleum is stacked. The piece cuts into account with the adhesion on the wall, the size of 5 cm, and mounted with a bend up. In places of its contact with the walls, he is attached with glue, then this place is poured.

At the design stage, it is necessary to consider the future device of mandatory ventilation channels. Ideal will be the construction of a special drain route. Floors for this are made with some inclination, it is planned to drain in.

Another way to make a bathroom in

Walls. Sheaving

As noted above, competent waterproofing is the most important characteristic of the bathroom frame. It will be more accurate to say, reliable isolation of all elements from the tree. The carrier structures for this is a pair-hydro-insulating membrane (with the help of construction stamp). Then the metal profiles are set, designed to become the basis for the subsequent upholstery of the walls.

They are surrounded by sheets of special, moisture-resistant (G CLEB). To enhance their strength and reliability of hydrocariozing, this is done in two layers. The first layer is attached to the profile by means of screws, the second special adhesive composition. So the walls acquire the strength they need, and there is no need to handle the hats of self-tapping screws with sealant. When mounting sheets of KGLV is fully completed, plastic poured into the joints between them. Now you can start the finish.

Tile in a frame house

Its role in this case can play PVC panels, a tile for a bathroom from ceramics, special types of color. Tile or panels are considered most preferred, as they provide the entire design of a large hydro-steam-steer.

Ceramic tiles and panels in a frame structure, as in any other house, are attached by special glue.

But for the grout of the resulting seams, a special, plastic agent is used. This is due to the properties of G Clac.

Bathroom: ceiling device

The technology and order of installation of the ceiling in the bathroom in practice resembles the arrangement of walls. First, the Parobarrier is securely attached to the beams, followed by a metal profile or rail. Special moisture resistant plasterboard is mounted for nails-self-assembly to the profile. Further, all existing joints are securely isolated with sealant.

The device of the ceiling of plasterboard and additional ventilation

The ceiling does not require a second plastic sheets of plasterboard sheets, so hats of self-tapping screws, in order to avoid corrosion, should also be processed. Then turn the sticker panels PVC. This is a rational and practical finishing material, with a good price ratio to quality. More expensive method of ceiling coating - stretch ceiling. It meets all the available hydro-vapor barrier requirements, but needs more careful when operating. It is also better to progress and establish additional ventilation in the bathroom ceiling.

Paul in a skeleton house: bathroom installation

These types of materials have excellent moisture resistance, they are pretty durable, made of harmless materials, which makes it possible to use from as a basis for gender. Then there is a layer of film waterproofing, which is poured by a cement screed.

What should pay attention to the implementation of these works?

What better to use for the bathroom in

Frost began and for those who live in the frame house began surprises. In some, and it would be necessary to say many, there were unpleasant surprises. Began the drops from the ceiling and out of the walls. People in shock and panic rushed into the Internet. There are my articles on condensate. As a result, I get to pain the same questions. I wanted to give one universal response to the owners of dripping frames. Perhaps he will help many not ask me the same questions, from which I have already begins to go!

What happened to your frame? Why is water dripping?

This is in most cases condensate. In everything is to blame the fact that warm air from the room passes inside the frame and moves through the insulation. As air moves, the air is cooled. Condensate stands out of it. First, it is simple fogging. But new portions of warm air from the room fit constantly and fogging turns into a drop. Drops are combined and turn into large drops. Drops under their weight fall down, form streams and these streams flow down. Since these streams are in the heat insulator, then the water needs to look for a hole. And the water finds it. She always finds her! As a result, droplets are formed. This drop never ends until frosts end. The warmer in the house, the more condensate is formed and the stronger the drops.

But this is not all the negative effects of condensate. Read on! Horror continues!

Condensate does not drip down. It freezes right in the heat insulator. Why? Because too closely advanced to the cold. It is clear that at some stage, the temperature in the heat insulator passes through zero to the negative zone. Exactly at the same time and steam turns into ice. What's next? And then the ice worsens the effect of the heat insulator. Simple thermal insulator stops heat insulating! At the same time, the cold border is gradually moving inside the room. That is, there is a gradual surveillance of the entire layer of thermal insulator. The house becomes colder, we begin to spend more fuel on its heating. And drops? And the drops becomes even stronger, since warm air from the room can no longer go deep and melts right under the interior decoration. So what to do?

Example of our frame-shield wall Note!

Under the word "vaporizolation" I understand only and exclusively that isolation layer, which is between the interior and the layer of thermal insulator (wats). Insulating layers in any other places I do not call vaporizolation! But if vaporizolation is made poorly, not the material, which you need and does not perform vaporizolation functions, then I still call it disgrace with vaporizolation. Parosolation serves only one single target: do not miss the warm air inside the heat insulator. There are no more purposes. If somewhere sometime I argue, I ask you to send me a link. I rephrase text.

Residential premises (our room with warm air)
Lining (brusal imitation, blockchauses, etc.)
Parosolation
Wat inside the carcass
Some incomprehensible isolation
Some exterior finish
Street with frost and wind

Note that in this interesting scheme we get a steamproof outer layer. And not because of the insulating layer under the OSB! Namely because of the OSB itself, which is absolutely steamproof! Why do you need closer-wind insulation under it? I do not know! Secret! Maybe the workers were not aware of the case. Can dilute the owner wanted. Maybe a lot of bought a vapor insulating material and there was nowhere to do .... You never know what causes!

But the steamproof outer layer does not allow a couple to come out of the frame. All couples who got into such a framework in it and will remain. Is it bad? Yes, bad. What to do? Parosolation in this frame should be just cosmic thoughts. Neither a gram of air from the room should not get inside the frame. Is it difficult to implement? Yes. complicated. I will not introduce you, dear readers, misleading.

Would I do this wall? Not! Never! And precisely because of a super hermetic outer layer.

But what is, that is. Here is the wall of us. What to do with her?

What would be good, but hardly possible

It would be great to tear off the external upholstery, to tear off OSB, to tear off isolation, which was under OSB, and close everything with a clapboard (imitation of a bar, blockhagum, siding) without any isolation. Then the steam, which would penetrate into the wall, would be unhindered from the wall outside, on the cold, and we would not have any droplets. In addition, even if our wool and podmock, then at the first warming, she would dry. In order for the wool to fly into the air, you can cover it with a wind insulation layer.

But this developers are not ready for this, because it is comparable to the restructuring of the whole house. So forget this option, as a good, but impossible for technical and economic parameters.

And whether the drilling of holes in the OSB will help in order for steam to come out?

Yes. Will help. But you need to know exactly where to drill and how much. It is better to drill evenly throughout the wall and on top of a little more. How much to drill? Well, so that the couples come out and while the wall did not lose strength. I can't say in absentia. Yes, and in reality, I probably would not say. I would have done an eye. Holes in large quantities, do you know the boring to drill. Well, I would have screwed and threw. Then he looked what would happen.

Of course, such a work (drilling holes in the wall) again depends on the external finish of the house. The one that according to OSB. If your house is plastered, then it's hard to do holes in it ... not physically, but morally, so to speak.

What else can you do?

In fact, a lot of things. So I prepared an exemplary list of options precisely for the wall that is given above.

Method 1 (normal)

Tear out internal finish
After we decided that the vaporizolation is now perfect, get all our finish again on the wall.

But keep in mind the water can be formed in the ceiling! Then condensate can drag on the ceiling and just so get into the wall. That is, the method 1 is good for use throughout the house from the inside, but not for one current wall.

Tear out internal finish
Stray vaporizoation
Buy in the store sheets of polyplex 20 mm thick
Cut the penplex carefully (it is very well cut by the bread knife) and insert it into the frame in the framework, pursing cotton wool. Fastening the fasteners either we sink scotch, or put a sealant
You nail a new vaporizolation. Not so super carefully, as in the method 1, but also try not to leave the slots and holes
We restore the inner finish

The essence of the method is that the penplex is absolutely impenetrable for steam. We get extra thermal insulation and quite serious vaporizolation. That is, in this way, we reinsured against the steam + we get additional insulation.

Tear out internal finish
To determine, finally, that there is actually under the finish - vapor barrier or wind insulation (these things are often confused)
If vaporizolation, then make all the joints with a special scotch. Especially on the ceiling and floor. If wind insulation, then buy vaporizolation and attach it to the wall already and smoke, of course. It is possible on top of wind insulation, which is already attached.
After that we finish the wall with plasterboard. Ordinary. Tolstoy (12 mm)
Sleep the seams and finish what we want. You can even with lining even.

The essence of the method is that the plasterboard absorbs the nightmarish amount of moisture! Through it is unlikely to pass. In addition, we get an additional degree of comfort, for the plasterboard reflects the sound well, that is, we get a quieter house. Can combine method 2 and method 3 and get an additionally two degrees of comfort and double reinsurance from steam? Yes, it is possible, of course.

You can come up with many more ways, one way or another combining and compiling already given. In addition, we do not forget that an increase in the vapor permeability of the outer layer is also a good way.

And if I built myself a frame-panel house, how would I do?

Well, obviously, I would combine all the above methods in general. But again I looked at the fact that I was building, on the functions of this building, on my financial opportunities.

I would, of course, did not use the OSB. The material is good, but imposes additional conditions on me. Again, as you communicate with people, I found out that this material is inclined to warp, the formation of cracks and holes (like bullets), the formation of strange cones and tumors.
I, of course, did not use any insulation under the outer upholstery. I would either imitate a bar, or siding would attach directly to the wall and Wat would not cover anything at all. Why would I choose exactly such finishing materials? And I like them. IMPORTANT! On the outside, it is purely theoretically, you can use the marblee, which is called the windproof membrane. Want - please. It won't be worse. But personally, I'm not sure that she will make me happy personally.
I would use the correct vaporizolation and arranged it carefully and honestly.
I really like the option with the penplex. I would choose it. Pleeping is very good material. But dear. For a shed, I would not use it, probably. And for the house - more likely, what is not.
Plasterboard? And this is generally my favorite material. I finished the house and very satisfied. Let me remind you that I was even accused of selling this material. But no! I do not sell, unfortunately.

And how to distinguish a vapor insulation material from windproofing?

Well ... on the label, first of all. But I will write about this special article.

Some examples

I climbed into the Internet to run illustrations. And in most, in the gigantic majority, or do not reflect the essence, or in general with errors. Here are just some examples:

Pool under floor

Do you need a pool under the floor? Here it is! Warm air from the room penetrates under the floor, there is condensed and the moisture is already never going anywhere! Notice how carefully the bottom is exhausted.

Of course, it was necessary to put cotton right on the draft floor, but it's good to close on top. Well, it's hard to guess what?

And why across? Pay attention to this item!

I would like to notice that it would be logical to attach from top to bottom. Then, with the upholstery, we press one layer of vapor insulation to the other on the beam and they are well pressed. And so we have an air inlet and you need to carefully smoke this joint! And it is also harder to smoke it, because the junction on the soft is.

Here you please! Not sick - there will be droplets!

Here is the insulation of the ceiling

Just do not need to cover it from above! So they will cover necessarily!

I hope that you will not be disappointed in our new skeleton house
Dmitry Belkin

The article was created on November 25, 2014.

The article was edited on November 28, 2014.

Similar materials - select by keywords

On this article, the total illiteracy of both by the builders and by buyers, as well as everythingally flashes in the commercial proposals of the phrase according to "Parohydro Isolation" - because of which all the sweetest, lost money, problem structures and T .P.

So, you probably heard about the waterproof, windproof and vaporizolation - that is, about the films that are put in insulated roofs and frame walls for their protection. But then, often the full "pair-type" begins.

I will try to write very simple and accessible, not immersed in formulas and physics. The main thing is to understand the principles.

Let's start with the fact that the main mistake is mixed into one concept of steam and moisture. Couples and moisture are completely different things!

Formally, couples and moisture are water, but in different aggregate states, respectively, having a different set of properties.

Water, it is moisture, it is "Hydra" (Hydro from Dr. Greek. ὝΔωρ "Water") is what we see eyes and can feel. Water from under the tap, rain, river, dew, condensate. In other words, this is a liquid. It is in this state that the term "water" is usually used.

Couples is a gaseous water condition, water dissolved in the air .

When an ordinary person speaks about couples, for some reason he thinks that this is necessarily something visible and tangible. Couples from the kettle's nose, in the bath, in the bathroom, etc. But actually it is not.

Couple is present in the air always and everywhere. Even now, when you read this article, steam is in the air around you. He underlies the very humidity of the air, about which you probably heard and complained more than once that the humidity is too high or too low. Although no one saw this moisture through the eyes.

In a situation where there is no couple in the air - a person will not live for a long time.

Taking advantage of the various physical properties of water in a liquid and gaseous state, science and industry got the opportunity to create materials that pass steam, but do not let the water.

That is, this is a certain sieve that is capable of missing steam, but will not miss the water in a liquid state.

At the same time, especially smart scientists, and then manufacturers, invented how to make a material that will carry water only in one direction. How exactly is done, for us it does not matter. There are few such membranes in the market.

So, a construction film that is impenetrable for water, but passes the pairs of the same in both sides - is called waterproofing parpurals Membrane. That is, steam she misses freely in both directions, and water (hydra) does not pass at all or only one way.

Parosolation- This is a material that does not miss anything or couples or water. And at the moment, vaporizolation membranes - That is, materials that have one-sided permeability for steam have not yet come up.

Remember as "Father our" - there is no universal "pair-like membrane". There are vaporizoation and vapor-permeable waterproofing. These are fundamentally different materials - with different purposes. The use of these films is not where you need and not so where you need - can lead to extremely sad consequences for your home!

Formally, the vaporizolation can be called paroysolation, as it does not miss any water or steam. But the use of this term is the way to commit dangerous errors.

Therefore, once again, in frame construction, as well as in insulated roofing, two types of films are used.

Paro insulating - who do not miss any couples or water and are not membranes
Waterproofing steam permeable Membranes (also called windproof, due to extremely low air permeability or superdiffusion)

These materials have different properties and their use is not intended, practically guaranteed to cause problems with your home.

Why do we need films in the roof or frame wall?

To understand this, you need to add a little theory.

Let me remind you that the task of this article is to explain "on the fingers", which is happening, without deepening into physical processes, partial pressure, molecular physics, etc. So in advance I apologize to those who had five in physics, and immediately make a reservation that in reality all the processes described below are much more complicated and have a lot of nuances. But the main thing is to understand the essence.

So the nature ordered that the couple always goes to the direction from warm to cold. Russia, a cold climate, a medium heating period from us - 210-220 days from 365 per year. If you decide to him days and nights, when it is cold outside in the street than in the house, then more.

Therefore, it can be said that most of the time, the pattern of the steam movement is directed from the inside of the house, outward. It does not matter about what is questionable - walls, roofing or lower overlap. Let's call all these things in one word - enclosing structures

In homogeneous structures, the problem usually does not occur. Because the vapor permeability of a homogeneous wall is equally. Couples calmly go through the wall and goes into the atmosphere. But as soon as we have a multilayer structure, consisting of materials with different vapor permeability, everything becomes no longer so simple.

Moreover, if we talk about the walls, it is not necessary to talk about the skeleton wall. Any multi-layered wall, at least a brick or aerated concrete with outdoor insulation, will already make it think.

Surely you heard that in a multi-layered structure, the vapor permeability of the layers should increase along the movement of steam.

What will happen then? Couple enters the design and moves in it from the layer in the layer. At the same time, the vapor permeation of each subsequent layer is higher and higher. That is, from everyone subsequent layer, couples will be faster than from previous.

Thus, we do not form an area where the saturation of the steam reaches the value when at a certain temperature can be condensed into the real moisture (dew point).

In this case, we will have no problems. The complexity is that it is not easy to achieve this in a real situation.

Parosolation of the roof and walls. Where is it and why is it needed?

Let's consider another situation. Couple got into the design, moves along the layers outside. The first layer passed, the second ... and then it turned out that the third layer is no longer so parchment as the previous one.

As a result, a couple who fell into the wall or roof does not have time to leave it, and the new "portion" is already backing it back. As a result, in front of the third layer the concentration of steam (more precisely saturation) begins to grow.

Remember what I said before? Couple moves towards warm, cold. Therefore, in the third layer area, when the saturation of the steam will reach the critical value, then at a certain temperature at this point, the pairs will begin to condense into real water. That is, we got a "dew point" inside the wall. For example, on the border of the second and third layer.

That is, it is often observed by people who have a house from the outside of something that has bad vapor permeation, such as plywood or OSP or CSP, and vaporizolation inside or it is made poorly. On the inner side of the outer skin, the condensate rivers flow, and all wet flushing to it.

Caps easily enters the wall or roof and "slipping" insulation, which as a rule has excellent vapor permeation. But then he "rests" into the outer material with poor permeability, and in the end, the dew point is formed inside the wall, right in front of the obstacle on the path of steam.

From this situation there are two exits.

For a long time and painfully pick up the materials of the cake so that the dew point is under no circumstances inside the wall. The task is possible, but complicated, given that in reality, the processes are not so simple as I describe now.
Put from the inside vaporizolation and make it the most sealed.

It is on the second path and go in the West, they make a hermetic obstacle on the way. After all, if you don't let couples in the wall at all, it will never reach the saturation that will lead to condensate. And then you can not break your head over what materials are used in the "Pie", from the point of view of the vapor permeability of the layers.

In other words - installation of vapor barrier, this is a guarantee of the absence of condensate and dampness inside the wall. At the same time, vaporizolation is always put on the inner, "warm" side of the wall or roof and is made as intended as possible.

Moreover, the most popular material for this "they", the usual polyethylene 200mbron. Which is inexpensive and has the highest piping resistance, after aluminum foil. The foil would be even better, but it's hard to work with it.

In addition, I pay special attention to the word hermetic. In the West, when installing vaporizolation, all the joints of the film are carefully skidded. All holes from the wiring of communications - pipes, wires through vapor barrier, are also thoroughly playful. Popular in Russia Installation of vaporizolation of Vangest, without sizing joints, can give insufficient tightness and as a result, you will get the same condensate.

Unfigured joints and other potential holes in vapor barrier, may cause a wet wall or roof, even if vaporizolation itself is.

I want to also note that the mode of operation of the house is important. Summer country houses, in which you are less regularly only from May to September, and maybe several times in the off-season, and the rest of the time the house is without heating, they can forgive some of the flaws of vaporizolation.

But a house for permanent residence, with constant heating - errors does not forgive. The more the difference between the outdoor "minus" and the inner "plus" in the house - the more the couple will enter out the exterior designs. Moreover, the likelihood of condensate inside these structures. Moreover, the amount of condensate as a result can be calculated by tens of liters.

Why do I need a waterproofing or superdiffusion vapor-permeable membrane?

I hope you understand why make vaporizolation from the inner wall - in order to not let couples inside the structures at all and prevent the conditions for its condensation in moisture. But the question arises, and where and why to put a vapor-permeable membrane and why it is impossible instead of it as well, to put vaporizolation.

Windproof, waterproofing membrane for walls

In the American wall design, the vapor-permeable membrane is always placed outside, over the OSP. Its main task is oddly enough, it is not protecting the insulation, but the protection of the OSP itself. The fact is that the Americans make vinyl siding and other facade materials at once on top of the plates, without any amp of gaps or craters.

Naturally, with this approach, there is a possibility of entering outdoor atmospheric moisture, between siding and stove. As is the second question, a strong oblique rain, construction of construction in the area of \u200b\u200bwindow openings, belel adjoining, etc.

If the water falls between siding and OSP, it can dry it there for a long time and the stove can start rotting. And the OSP in this place the material is frowning. If I started to rot, this process develops very quickly and goes deep into the slab, destroying it from the inside.

It is for this that, first of all, a membrane with single-beam permeats for water is put. The membrane will not give water with a possible leakage, go to the wall. But if some way, the water fell under the film, due to one-sided penetration, it can get out.

Super Diffusional Waterproofing Membrane for Roofing

Let you not confuse the word superdiffusion. In fact, it is the same as in the previous case. The word superdiffusion means only the fact that the film is very well missing pairs (pair diffusion)

In the scope roof, for example, under metal tile, there are usually no plates, so the vapor-permeable membrane protects the insulation from both possible leaks outside and from blowing the wind. By the way, therefore, such membranes are also called windproof.That is, a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane and windproof membrane - as a rule, the same thing.

In the roof, the membrane is also placed on the outside, in front of the vessel.

In addition, pay attention to the instructions for the membrane. Since some membranes put close to insulation, and some, with a gap.

Why it is necessary to put the membrane outside, and not vaporizolation

But why not put vaporizolation? And make an absolutely playproof wall on both sides? Theoretically, this is possible. But practically, to achieve the absolute tightness of vaporizolation is not so simple - all the same somewhere there will be damage from fasteners, the flaws of construction.

That is, some kind of meager number of steam, it will still fall into the walls. If you have a vapor-permeable membrane outside outside - then this meager has a chance to get out of the wall. But if vaporizolation, it will remain for a long time and sooner or later, it will reach a saturated state and again the dew point will appear inside the wall.

So - the windproof or waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane is always installed outside. That is, with the "cold" side of the wall or roof. If there are no plates or other structural materials outside, the membrane is put on top of the insulation. Otherwise, in the walls, it is put on top of the enclosing materials, but under the facade finish.

By the way, it is worth mentioning another detail, for which films are used, and the wall or roof is made as sealed as possible. Because the best insulation is air. But only if it is absolutely immobile. The task of all insulation, whether it is a foam or minvat, to ensure air immobility within itself. Therefore, the lower the density of the insulation, as a rule, above its heat resistance - the material contains more fixed air and less material.

The use of films from both sides of the wall reduces the likelihood of blowing the insulation by the wind or convection movements of the air inside insulation. Thus, forcing the insulation to work as efficiently as possible.

What is the danger of the term Parohydrozolation?

The danger is that under this term, as a rule, two materials are mixed with different purposes and with different characteristics.

As a result, confusion begins. Parosolation can put on both sides. But the most common option of error, especially in the roofing and the most terrible in consequences, when the result is the opposite - steam barrier is installed outside, and the vapor-permeable membrane from the inside. That is, we calmly skip the pairs into the design, in unlimited quantities, but we do not let it go. This is where the situation appears on a popular video.

Moreover, it can occur both with overlapping and with a wall or with a roof.

Conclusion: Never mix the concepts of vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes and vaporizolation - this is the right road to building errors having very difficult consequences.

How to avoid mistakes with films in the wall or roof?

The fear of the eyes are great, in fact, with films in the wall or roof everything is quite simple. The main thing to remember to comply with the following rules:

In the conditions of a cold climate (most of Russia), vaporizolation is always put only with the inner, "warm", side - whether it is a roof or wall
Parosolation is always made as intended as possible - joints, holes of the interchanges of communications, skill with scotch. At the same time, special adhesive tape is often required (as a rule with butyl rubber adhesive base), as a simple can be discarded with time.
The most efficient and cheap vaporizoation is a polyethylene film 200 mk. It is desirable "primary" - transparent, it is easiest to smoke the joints with ordinary bilateral scotch. The purchase of "branded" vaporizolations is usually unjustified.
Parry-permeable membranes (superdiffusion, windproof) are always put with the outer, cold side of the structure.
Before you put the membrane, pay attention to the instructions for it, since some types of membranes are recommended to be put on the clearance from the material to which it fit.
The instructions can be found on the manufacturer's website or on the roll of the film itself
Usually, in order to avoid errors with the "Which side" to mount the film, the manufacturers turn the roll so that "roll over" it outside By design, you automatically installed the right side. With other use options, before starting installation, consider which side of the material.
Choosing a vapor-permeable membrane, it is worth a preference to high-quality "first and second echelon" manufacturers - Tyvek, Tekton, Delta, Corotop, Juta, Eltete, etc. As a rule, these are European and American brands. The membranes of manufacturers of the "Third Echelon" - isospan, nano-insole, megaism and other "isola", "brains", etc. As a rule, heavily inferior in quality, and most of them generally have an unknown Chinese origin with a stamping brand of a trading company on the film.
In case of doubts about using the film - go to the manufacturer's website and read the instructions or recommendation for use. Do not trust the advice of the sellers of consultants. Refers mainly to the materials of the "first and second echelon". In the instructions of the manufacturers of the Third Echelon, there are often a large number of errors, since they actually trade with films, without producing them and not engage in any development, so the instructions are written "on the knee"

PS If you are interested in a little more information about the difference in vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes, I recommend reading this small document.

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To protect the insulation under OSB, it is important to use a vapor barrier film that will help extend the service life of the insulation and maintain its integrity. As for wind insulation, it is necessary in some cases.

When you need windproof under OSB

Windproof Under OSB is simply indispensable in cases where the house is insulated with mineral wool, eco-art, and other types of insulation materials susceptible to the destructive effects of moisture and steam.

The main reasons why you need to do windproof under OSB:

To protect the insulation from exposure to moisture, condensate and steam.
For the lack of cracks in the joints of OSB plates in the framework of the house frame.
In order to avoid the appearance of mold and fungi on the surface of the inner and outer walls of the house.

For unheated premises, in which the insulation laying is not planned, the windproof layer under OSB can not be stacked.

What material is suitable for windscreens under OSB

As a modern and affordable windproofing vehicles under OSB, special windproof films are ideal.

Advantages of films:Installation of vapor barrier on the ceiling with wooden floors in a private house which side to lay paosoolence to the insulation on the ceiling of the bath? How to properly put vapor barrier on the ceiling of the attic?