How to install split system with your own hands. How to install air conditioning yourself - step-by-step instructions Installation of the wall split system of air conditioning

Installation of the air conditioner - the task is not easy, but done! At each stage there are many questions. It is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to give one standard scheme - each case is individual. If you do not know where to start installation, in which sequence perform operations, then this article is for you!

On the Internet there are many recommendations and guidelines, but there are few specifics in them. In this post, I will highlight the nuances that arise at every step of the installation - I will try to make a clear instruction. To use it, each was able to perform a simple installation of the household split system. But before starting work, read the article completely.

if the "track" of the air conditioner is very long and has complex bends;
if the highway will pass through several walls;
if the external unit is installed at high altitude (above the second floor);
if the diameter of at least one of the pipes is greater than 3/8 inches.

Installation of air conditioner

The first stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to submit and how the "track" will be laid between them. Here, each factor should be taken into account:

On the mounting plate, place the center of the block. Then the center mark on the wall. Do not forget about the distance to the ceiling. Using the level, align the plate and secure it.

After that, you can estimate the inner block to the fixture plate (but do not snap the lower clips to the plate!). Pencil notes the lower corners of the body. Then remove the block from the plate.

We note where there will be a hole in the outer wall.

Gently cut the wallpaper and beat the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is direct or as in the photo above, you need to make the so-called "occupancy" to the hole (where the tubes will enter the wall). So that in this place the bending of the "tracks" was smooth.

for brick or concrete walls it will take a large perforator and a car with a winning tip. The first 2-3 cm wall cluster without inclination (in a straight line) so that the bruphes enter the wall. Then be sure to tilt down. During this operation, it is better to use the industrial vacuum cleaner.
wooden wall is better drilled drill with a feather drill with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly, but right. Do not forget about the tilt of the hole down.
metal photograph or "sandwich" is better drilled with a bimetallic crown of 45mm. Also do not forget about the tilt of the hole down.

If the "track" of the air conditioner needs to be dragged in just one hole in the wall, then you can act as follows:

The internal unit is conveniently located and connect the materials to it:

In one compact harness form the following materials:

With the help of a partner, we drag the inner block with the "track" through the hole in the wall. We hang it on the plate, but the lower clips are not snapped!
The power cable is summarized to the desired room inside the room (but do not connect!). If required, closed the "track" inside the room with a cable channel. Latch the lower clips of the block.
We throw the external block to the brackets and fasten it securely. The "track" outside gently summarize to the cranes of the external block.
We unscrew the nuts of the cranes of the external block (see so that nothing fell into open fittings). We dress nuts on the tubes, after which they are rolling. We screw the copper tubes to the fitters.
Connect the inter-block cable in the same way as the inner block. If an additional wire is included with air conditioning, we connect it to the corresponding block. Connect the "power" cable if according to the scheme it goes to the external block.
Further required pressure gauges and vacuum pump (Pressure gauges must match the type of freon). Here be attentive:

connect the left hose of the pressure gauge to the fitting of the outer block (to which the pipe is suitable for a large diameter). The average pressure gauge hose is connected to the vacuum pump;
we run the pump and open the left crane on the manometer (counterclockwise);
we are waiting for a few minutes while "pumps" the air. For small air conditioners (up to 2.7 kW of power) and a short "highway" (up to 5 meters), wait from 8 to 10 minutes;
at the end of the "pumping" overlap the left crane of the pressure gauge, and immediately after that we turn off the pump. We look at the testimony of the manometers (the arrow should stand still "-1"). If you need refueling with freon, then read the appropriate articles ();
we open the hexagon of the tap of a thin tube at the external block. At the same time, we look at the testimony of the pressure gauges - the "Catch" arrow about 3 BAR. We observe the arrow of 5 minutes - it should not move to 0 bar (which will indicate the tightness of the connections of the tubes);
next, unscrew the left hose of the pressure gauge from the air conditioner. Here you need to be very neat and quickly unscrew the hose so as not to burn the freon (necessarily in gloves). Even experts with experience may suffer at this operation;
open the hexagon of both cranes on the external block (counterclockwise). After that, we can close all the plugs.

Approximately the same instruction is in a separate article.

Thus, the installation of the air conditioner is completed! This article is not a universal instruction for all household air conditioners. But in most cases it will be relevant, and I hope you will help you install air conditioning. See a detailed video on the installation of the split system.

If you have something to supplement, leave comments!

Survive the summer heat and stool helps climate technique and in particular split systems that are called air conditioners according to habit. Technique is not cheap, but worst everything is required to pay the amount a little smaller than for the equipment. Therefore, many are thinking about independent installation. The installation of the air conditioner is possible, but there are many little things and features, non-burning of which leads to a rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instructions will help you do everything right.

Choosing a place

Installing the air conditioner with their own hands begins with the definition of the location of the equipment. Since the split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account how the cold air will be distributed in the house or apartment, as well as take into account the technical requirements.

Let's start with technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we consider such requirements:

from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (some manufacturers at least 20-30 cm);
up to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
before the obstacle that the flow of cold air will be broken - at least 150 cm.

The outer block usually put usually near the window or on the open balcony if it is. On the glazed balcony / loggia is possible on the fence (if it has sufficient carrier) or near the wall. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, the outer block is trying to put the windows level above - away from passersby. At higher floors can be placed under the window or side.

If the installation of the air conditioner is planned in a private house, it is usually selected based on the bearing ability of the walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can apply a special mounting or hanging the block to the base, if it is.

When choosing a location of the split-system blocks, it is also necessary to remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures depend on the manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance may be 1.5 m, 2.5 m (different models of Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). Some manufacturers have a minimum length not regulate, that is, anyone. In this case, you can set the "Back to Back" blocks. Installers This way of installation is called "sandwich".

Slightly easier, the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the Freon system will be required, and this is additional costs, and considerable. Therefore, try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What will be required for self-installation

You are probably aware of how much the installation of the air conditioner is expert. If you come from where such prices, after all, work is only 3 hours, they respond that the equipment and its depreciation is a significant share of the cost. Perhaps this is the case, but most of this equipment can already be in the farm. An exception is a vacuum pump, but many brigades do without it, since it is worth a normal really much, but from a bad any sense.

Equipment

So, to install the air conditioner with your own hands you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually take him nowhere and on the tracks up to 6 meters it is cost without it.

Materials

For connecting and installing two blocks of split systems, the following consumables will be needed:

It's all that is necessary to install the air conditioner with your own hands.

Order of installation and features

In an independent installation of the split system, there is nothing over-complex, but there is a mass of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, it is worth carefully reading the installation and operation instructions that comes with the equipment. The time spent compensate for what you will know exactly what and how to do it with your air conditioning, because there are some nuances.

Start - Mount the blocks

Before the start of all works, it is worth searching in the estimated place of installation hidden wiring or heating pipes. Get into them when working - it is very sad. Next is the actual installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. It is necessary to start with the installation of the indoor unit. At the selected place, placing the plate for its attachment. The block should hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviations. Therefore, they approach the markup and fastening carefully.

Apply the plate, exhibit it in terms of the level, mark the place for fasteners. Drills holes, insert plastic plugs under a dowel, hang the plate and fasten the dowels. Especially carefully secure the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, because they should be rigidly fixed. No backlash. Then check the horizontality again.

After catching, where the track will be located (it should go under the tilt at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage laying), start drilling a hole in the outer wall. The hole also drills with a bias - again to normal condensate (the angle can be more than the track).

The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no bore of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, output not a common bunch of communications, but separately each tube / cable. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for copper and an electrocabyl, the second for a drainage tube. It must be stacked below the rest - in order not to be crushed into communications in an emergency.

If two "back to back" block is mounted, the hole must be strictly outled (measure on your own block where the connections are locked)

Then install the brackets for the outer block. If we are talking about a high-rise building, climbing equipment and work skills will be required. This unit should also hang strictly horizontally, so when laying holes also use the level. When installing brackets, fasteners are installed in each hole, no matter how much them is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchor 10 * 100 mm. More you can, less extremely undesirable.

After the brackets are fixed, exhibit an outdoor unit. I fix the block, too, in all attachments that are. Only so can ensure that it will stand in place under any conditions.

Laying Communications

Two blocks connect the electrical wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is displayed through the wall. All these communications must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.

Copper tubes

We start with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. Cut off the pipe cutting a piece of the desired length, process the edges from the burr a special tool to reprole and leveling the cut. Use the usual saw is undesirable, like a file for removing a burr - inside the pipe will necessarily be powdered, which will fall into the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

The prepared pipes wear heat-insulating tubes. Moreover, thermal insulation should be solid and passed inside the wall including. The joints of the thermal insulation pieces are definitely sampled by a metallized scotch, achieving very dense adjacent to the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensate will be formed on the tapered portions, and it can be drained inside the wall, causing frozen driving, destroying the wall.

Copper tubes wrapped in thermal insulation must be carried out through a hole in the wall. Before that, it is necessary to be the edge that will be introduced into the wall, carefully close the dust in the pipe (and it is better to drown out reliably both end immediately after cutting and leave the plug before the connection starts). This is a very important point, since dust will quickly dissemble the compressor.

Cable and drainage

It is easier to deal with an electrical cable. Each wire is obsessed with special tips by installing them on the conductor cleaned from insulation and crimping the ticks. The prepared cable is connected according to the scheme that is in the instructions.

On the inner and outer block above the ports for connecting copper pipes there is a removable plate under which connectors for connecting the cable. Before starting an independent installation of split system, remove the plates, consider what and where it will be necessary to connect - it will be easier to work. Especially with the external block.

Connecting the drainage tube is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate output on the inner block and removed through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it end up at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage tube must be performed with a bias towards the exit to the street. The slope of at least 1 cm per meter is long. You can no longer less.

The tube must be recorded through each meter so that there are no savings in it. Condensate is then accumulated in them, which can be on your floor or on the furniture. When you spend the tube through the hole in the wall, it is also better to drown something.

In the room usually pipes and cables are wrapped with a metallized tape into a single harness. Then they fix the wall in several places, the plastic box is fixed. Usually it takes white or suitable for color finishing.

If you wish, you can hide all tubes into the wall - to label the track in the wall, put there and after checking the performance to climb. But this is a pretty risky option, so to repair something need to disassemble the wall.

Connection blocks

Here, in general, there are no special secrets. Extended through the hole in the communication wall, connect to the appropriate connectors. With the connection of the cable there is no problems - to the terminals connect the wires of the same color that they are already connected. In this case, definitely not mistaken.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop for trapping the oil (put the copper pipes in this way) dissolved in Freon. If the difference is lower, no loops do.

Drainage

There are two ways to remove drainage from split system - in sewer or just outside, outside the window. The second method is more common, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drain tube is also simple. At the output of the drainage system of the indoor unit (tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit), the corrugated hose is easily stretched. So that it holds securely, tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same is the case with the drainage of the outdoor unit. Finding it at the bottom. Often leave everything as it is, and water drips just down, but it is better, probably also to wear a drainage hose and take moisture from the walls.

Drainage of outdoor block

If it is used not hose, but a polymer pipe, you will need to choose an adapter that allows you to connect the air conditioner output and the tube. Watch will have to be on the spot, because there are different situations.

When laying a drainage tube, it is better to avoid sharp turns and it is definitely possible to allow savings - condensate will accumulate in these places, which is not good. As they have already spoken, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

Somewhat more complicated with the connection of copper tubes. They are neatly, not allowing the beggars and the chances are laid out on the walls. For flexible, it is better to use pipe bender, but you can do the spring. In this case, also should avoid sharp turns, but in order not to pass the tube.

Ports on the outer block look like this. On the domestic same way.

From the beginning we connect the tube in the inner block. On it from ports twist nuts. As the nuts weaken the hissing is heard. It comes out nitrogen. This is normal - nitrogen rank, in the factory so that the insides are not oxidized. When the hiss stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, we put it on the tube, then begin to fad.

Rolling

First remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burr. If during the cutting section it became not round, use the calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in the store store. It is inserted into the pipe, scroll, leveling the cross section.

The edges of the tubes for 5 cm are thoroughly align, after the edge, they are unrolled in order to connect to the input / output of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correctness of the execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system should be hermetic. Then refueling the air conditioner will be needed not soon.

When the fadder, hold the pipe down. Again, so that the particles of copper do not get inside, and fell on the floor. In the holder it is clamping so that 2 mm is broken. That is how no more nor less. We clamp the tube, put the roller cone, spin, applying solid efforts (thick-walled tube). The ruin is completed when the cone does not go further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with another tube.

If before you do not rolling pipes, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge must turn out even, with a clear continuous border.

Connection with port

The collapsed edge of the pipe connect with the corresponding output, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like to use should not be used (forbidden). In order to take special tubes from high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.

It is necessary to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case the copper is split, it will make a fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely hermetically.

The same operation is repeated with all four outlets.

Wakuuming - for what and how to do

The last stage ending the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. When mounting, the wet air out of the room or from the street fills copper tubes. If you do not delete it, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a larger load, will warm more.

The presence of moisture also negatively affects the system performance. The fact is that the freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains some amount of oil for lubricating elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but bypassing with water, it is less efficiently lubricating insides, and this leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that without removal of air, the system will work, but not very long and with possible overheating (if there is such automation).

You can remove air from the system in two ways: with the help of a vacuum pump or a certain amount of freon released from the outer block (it is refilled at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

Method "PSHIKA"

On the ports of the external block, we unscrew the plugs of the valves (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).

Operations will be carried out with the bottom port (larger diameter), which sticks to perpendicular to the case. Under the lid is a hexagon connector, we select the right key in size.

Under the lid there is a valve with a hex jack

Further, by this key, for one second turn the valve for 90 °, return to the previous position. We let in the system a little freon, there was an overpressure. Press your finger to the spool, which is located on the same port. By this, we produce a mixture of freon and gases there. Press literally for seconds. The mixture must remain so as not to run a new air portion inside.

You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can rotate the valve located above. When the track is 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Not enough for greater stocks of Freon.

When the air is almost deleted, you screw the plug, control valves (under the hex) open, running freon into the system to exit a spool (refill). All connectors to the soapy foam to make sure they are sealed. You can run.

Vacuum pump

For this operation, a vacuum pump is needed, a high pressure tube, a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, couples, nitrogen remains are pulled out.

Then the pump is disconnected, the pump valve is closed, but do not disconnect and leave for another 15-20 minutes. All this time must be observed for testimony of pressure gauges. If the system is sealed, no pressure changes, the arrows of the pressure gauges froze in place. If the arrows change their position - somewhere there is a leakage and need to be eliminated. You can find it with a soap foam and tighten the compound (usually the problem is in the location of the copper tubes to the outputs of the blocks).

If everything is fine without disconnecting the pump hose, we fully open the valve that is at the bottom. Inside the system, some sounds are heard - Freon fills the system. Now in gloves quickly surround the hose of the vacuum pump - some amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and it is frostbite to do anything. Now unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).

Why in that order? Because when filling in Freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly locks the filling port when disconnecting the pump. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner is completed with your own hands, you can turn on.

For the sake of fair to say that such an operation is vacuuming - conducts only in Russia and the nearest countries. In the same israel, where air conditioners work all year round, nothing like this. Why - a question for reflection.

To deliver air conditioning, as a rule, you need to call specialists who, at the end of the installation of the equipment, will give you a document indicating correctly done. When installing the System Split with your own hands, you lose the right to maintain warranty. But in order to save finances, many homemade craftsmen are trying to make an air conditioner installation with their own hands. It is worth considering one point: in order to combine the external block of the system with the internal, and then start the unit to work, you will need to purchase pretty expensive equipment. In addition, the installation of the split system is a rather troublesome case if it is conducted independently. The purchase of equipment is appropriate in the following cases:

you plan to transfer one or more aggregates to new places;
if you have acquired several aggregates;
you are planning a serious repair in the apartment, implying a complete disassembly, and then the reverse installation of the split system;
you want to help install split system to your friends or relatives;
if you use this set of tools to repair the automotive air conditioner.

In other cases, the installation of the air conditioner in the apartment is not an advantage in the apartment.

The standard bundle-system package usually includes such components.

Important! To install the air conditioner with your own hands and run it to work, you need to supplement the standard set of device.

Materials and installation tools

To independently install split system, you will need to purchase the following materials.

Without a special tool, it is also not to do:

pipe bender (how to use, shown in video);
rimmer stripping;
truborez (how to use it, you can learn from the video);
valtsovka (see video);
manometer collector;
vacuum pump.

Choosing a place of installation for the indoor unit

The location of the inner module should be such that during its operation you have not experienced discomfort from the stream of cool air. If you look at the next drawing, it will become clear without words, what are the ideal options for installing the air conditioner in the apartment.

When placing the module over the headboard, the flow of cold air will not fall into the recreation area and will not harm health. The workplace is recommended to be positioned so that the air flow is either side or from behind. If the table you work is under the air conditioner in an apartment or office, you can install a special screen under the hair dryer to direct the stream along the ceiling.

Installation Requirements for the Inner Block

There are the following rules for the placement of the internal unit of the air conditioner in the room:

the distance between the hairdryer and the ceiling must be at least 15 cm (some models are installed at a distance from the ceiling of 20-30 cm);
the distance from the installed block to the wall on the right or left is at least 30 cm;
the obstacle on the path of the air flow should be not closer to 150 cm.

Sometimes the question arises: what height hang the internal module if there are high ceilings in the room? On average, hang air conditioning on the wall can be at the height 280 cm from the floor, as it shown on the picture.

The following figure shows examples of various installation options, clearly showing how it is better to install air conditioning.

Installation Requirements Outdoor Block

External unit module is customary to install under the window, near the window or on the balcony. If the balcony fence is strong enough, then you can fix the module and on it.

If the apartment is located on the first floorThe outer block is required to have at least 2 meters from the ground at a height of at least 2 meters from the ground, following the rules: the outer block must be mounted slightly below the internal or at the same level with it.

When installing the split system modules should be remembered for the values \u200b\u200bof the minimum and maximum distance between them. These values \u200b\u200bmay differ from different climate machinery manufacturers. For example, for Panasonic Split systems, the minimum distance between modules can be 3 meters, and for Daikin - from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Some manufacturers do not indicate the minimum distance at all. In this case, blocks can be placed on the principle of "back to back".

The maximum length of the route between modules is usually equal to 6 meters. Allowed and more, but in such a situation it will be necessary freon refuelingWhat entails additional material investments. Therefore, if an independent installation of the air conditioner is performed, it is better not to exceed the designated 6 meters.

Installation order

The installation order of the air conditioner, including inverter air conditioner, implies the phased installation of all its modules and highways. Installation must be performed by following step-by-step instructions.

The installation rules of the air conditioner say that at the first stage, the installation of the inner block (hair dryer) of the air conditioner will be required. To do this, follow these steps.

To correctly install the air conditioner, take the steel frame and apply it to the wall at the site of the intended mounting of the hair dryer (taking into account all distances described above). It is important that the frame for mounting the air conditioner was placed. strictly horizontally (Use the construction level).
Camerate places for fastening.
Using the perforator, do the holes in the wall and score plastic dowels in them.
Attach the plate to the wall and secure it with self-draws.
The hairdryer is hanging on the mount (plate) for air conditioning, after which it is necessary to check the horizontal. If you allow the intercession of the air conditioner in the room in the opposite direction from the drainage channel, the liquid will accumulate in the pallet and drain along the walls.

Preparation of communication channels

Installing the air conditioner with your own hands continues to prepare the channel under the highway. To remove the freon contour tube, feed cables and drainage, it is necessary to make a hole of the corresponding diameter in the wall. For this, the perforator with a long brown is used. For the free outflow of condensate to the street, you need to do when drilling the wall a small bias

Installation of the outer block

Installing an external air conditioner unit is considered the most time-consuming process when installing split-systems. The difficulties are associated with the fact that the weight of the module can reach 20 kg and more due to the compressor placed in it. In addition, most often the external module is installed at high altitude.

To begin with, make marking using the level. After that, with the help of the perforator, do the holes. Further, the anchor bolts are screwed in them, and the brackets themselves are screwed into them with nuts. After the brackets are securely fixed, the external module is installed on them.

When installing the air conditioner, especially the outdoor unit, you will need help at least one person.. If the module is installed at high altitude, you will not be able to install air conditioning yourself. It is better to use the services of climbers to hang this module.

The outer module is attached to the brackets with bolts. It is recommended to pave thick rubber under the paws to reduce vibration.

Communication block connection

To continue the installation of split system with your own hands, you need to connect both modules with each other.

First of all, remove the protective plastic covers on the terminals of the external block. Using the instructions, connect control and power cables to them, which go from the inner module.
Gently to further connect modules, make mounting the route Your air conditioner, the heat insulation is pre-dressed on the tube (the ends are fixed by the reinforced scotch). So that in the tube did not hit the garbage, also creep their ends of the scotch. The track is attached with the help of clamps, screwed to the wall. After that, measure the length of the line and cut the tubes, leaving the reserve at 10 cm. Put on them the naughty nuts and root the ends. Using the Rimmer, remove the chamfer. The gasket of the track (highway) under the air conditioner can be carried out both outside the room, and inside, if for aesthetic reasons it is forbidden to post any communication on the facade of the building.
With the help of cape nuts, screw the tubes first to the fittings of the external module, then to the internal fittings.
Secure the drainage tube using plastic clamps.

The following is the scheme of connecting the split system modules.

Vacuuming

Without vacuuming, the highway cannot be launched into the refrigerant system. For this procedure, you will need a vacuum pump and a manometer collector. The pump is connected to the filling station through the collector, as shown in the figure below (the valves at the collector should be in the "closed" position), after which it turns on at 20-30 minutes. To remove air residual residues.

After turning on the vacuum pump, it is required to open the handle under the pressure gauge. After a short period of time, the arrow on the manometer will begin to fall and reaches zero, within 30 seconds or more. The pumping time depends on the length of the highway and the diameter of the tubes. The position of the arrow on zero means that in the highway vacuum was formed.

Do not turn off the pump at this stage. Continue vacuuming about 30 minutes. After the specified time, first the crane at the collector should be overlap, and only then turn off the pump. If the kraist is not closed, the air drum will occur.

Filling Freonon

Freon starts in the system without disconnecting the hoseconnected to the service port valve. If this is done before the refrigerant is launched, air will enter the highway.

To start the refrigerant independently, it is required to, using the hex key, slowly open the valve on the liquid valve. After filling the route with a refrigerant, you can unscrew the hose attached to the service port located on the gas valve.

Attention! When disconnecting the hose, it is possible to release freon, which is capable of frozen hands and damage the eyes. It is recommended to wear safety glasses, and on the hands - gloves. The face is required to keep away from the fitting.

Unscrew the fitting from the valve as quickly as possible to reduce the loss of freon. Do not scare a loud hiss. Nut when leaving the refrigerant can be covered with it. Do not touch her without gloves so as not to get a burn.

All connections for checking leakage can be wrapped. After checking, tighten all the plugs on the valves of the valves, without applying great effort, but quite good. If you spin them weakly, it is possible that in the winter it will happen freon leak.

After you were convinced of the tightness of the highway, turn on the split system for a while, then check all the connections again. At this stage, the installation of a wall air conditioner is considered complete.

Lends permission

People often ask if a permission is needed to install a split system, and is it possible to install it without negotiation with the authorities? Based on the practice, the permission to install the air conditioner is not required. An exception may be cases when it is necessary to coordinate the installation of climate equipment with the authorities, in buildings that are architectural monuments Or having historical, aesthetic value. In other cases, approval is not required for installation of climate equipment.

Air conditioning should be chosen and installed in advance, without waiting for the summer heat. So you can save a considerable amount, especially if you perform. In order for the equipment to work without failures, the installation of the air conditioner should be carried out strictly according to the instructions, in the right place. The inconsistency of the technical conditions or the wrong selection of parts will result in a quick breakage of the split system.

To establish everything correctly, you should have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and evaporative block interconnected by tubes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Dear models have not one internal block, but several that are connected to one compressor.

In the evaporative block through the nozzle is fed under high pressure refrigerant. It falls into the chamber of the evaporator, it expands there, boils, and his couples begin to absorb heat intensively. During this process, water condensate is allocated and settled on the radiator of the evaporative unit. From there, the moisture is sent to the tank and on the tube is output outside the building.

All this time, the compressor pumped up the evaporation of the refrigerant from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant is heated and the liquid turns into a high density fog. In this state, the refrigerant enters the chamber equipped with a radiator for condensate, cooled by a fan and turns into a liquid again. In this form, it is again fed under pressure in the evaporator nozzle and the workflow is repeated.

The efficiency of the equipment and the consumption of electricity directly depend on the operating conditions. If there is a heating device next to the air conditioner, the compressor consumes and is often out of order. Called a breakdown may also be a common dust that fell inside the system, and therefore it should be carried out regularly and very carefully. You can not put the surface of the block various objects, as well as to cover with anything.

To exclude the evaporation of the refrigerant, when installing, it is necessary to thoroughly seal all the joints and connections. The outer block must be located lower than the internal and as possible in the cooler place. Well, if the block is constantly in the shade of the coating of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and the comfortable climate in the premises.

Detail of air conditioner	Description
1. Fan.	creates a stream of air blowing capacitor
2. Condenser	the radiator in which the cooling and condensation of freon occurs. Blowing through the condenser air, respectively, heats up
3. Compressor	squeezes Freon and maintains its movement along the refrigerator. The compressor is piston or spiral (scroll) type. Piston compressors are cheaper, but less reliable than spirals, especially in low-temperature outdoor temperatures
4. Management board	it is installed only on inverter air conditioners. In not inverter models, all electronics are trying to post in the inner block, because Large drops of temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four-way valve	it is installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of movement of freon. At the same time, the internal and outdoor block is changed in places: the internal unit works on heating, and outdoor - for cooling
6. Equipment compounds	these are connected copper pipes connecting outdoor and internal blocks
7. Freon Filter	It is installed before the input of the compressor and protects it from copper crumbs and other small particles that can enter the system when mounting the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation is made with a violation of technology and a large amount of garbage fell into the system, the filter will not help
8. Protective rapid cover	closes fitting connections and terminal blocks used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover closes only a terminal bar, and the fitting connections remain outside

	Description
1. Front panel	it is a plastic lattice through which air flows inside the block. The panel is easily removed to maintain the air conditioner (filter cleaning, etc.)
2. Filter coarse cleaning	is a plastic mesh and is designed to delay large dust, animal wool, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Filter of fine cleaning	there are various types: coal (removes unpleasant Smells), electrostatic (delays small dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine cleaning filters no effect does not affect the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fan	Has 3 - 4 rotational speeds
5. Evaporator	the radiator in which the heating of cold freon and its evaporation occurs. Blowing through the radiator air, respectively, cooled
6. Horizontal blinds	the direction of the air flow vertically is adjusted. These blinds have an electric drive and their position can be adjusted from the remote control. In addition, blinds can automatically perform oscillatory movements for uniform distribution of air flow by room
7. Indicator panel	on the front of the air conditioner installed indicators (LEDs), showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling about possible faults.
8. Vertical blinds	serve to adjust the direction of the air flow horizontally. In domestic air conditioners, the position of these blinds can be adjusted only manually. Ability to adjust from the remote control only in some models of premium air conditioners
Pallet for condensate	located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water generated on the surface of a cold evaporator). From the pallet, water is displayed out through the drainage hose
Control board	it is usually located on the right side of the indoor unit. The electronics block with the central microprocessor is placed on this board.
Equipment	located at the bottom rear of the indoor unit. These are connected copper pipes connecting outdoor and internal blocks

Air Conditioning Mounting Tools

Going to install air conditioning yourself, you need to prepare all the tools in advance that you may need:

In addition, you will need a whole bay of the copper tube with the ends spangled in factory defines. The presence of scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

Installing the air conditioner is best during overhaul, because you have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - the principle of operation of the air conditioner

Prices for accessories for air conditioners

Accessories for air conditioners

Installation instructions for air conditioning

If the tools are purchased, the air conditioner is delivered and unpacked, you can proceed to work. The first is the outer block, and then mount the system indoors. During the installation process, it is impossible to forget about safety technician, especially if the work is made at the level of the second floor and above.

Fastening the outer block

When installing the air conditioner in a private house of special difficulties for placing an outdoor unit, but the place must be chosen very carefully. The block of the block should not be blown up the kind of neighbors, and the condensate should not flock along the wall of the house. At the same time, the air conditioner should be attached within reach of the balcony, since such equipment needs periodic maintenance.

It is best if the block is fixed with the eastern or northern side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. So he will not interfere with anyone, and it is possible to reach it without difficulty through an open window. Using the level, place the places of attachment of the brackets and drill holes in the wall under the anchor bolts. For laying inter-block communications, a through hole with a diameter of 80 mm is drilled. In the brick wall it is recommended to drill on a seam between bricks - it will take less time and the hole will be careful.

Brackets are installed on the markup, align and securely twist the bolts. The outer block itself is fixed so that between the radiator and the wall surface remains at least 10 cm. The connection is made a little later, then they close the formed clearances. If the unit is securely fixed on a vertical surface, you can go to the next step.

The internal unit is forbidden to be mounted behind the curtains, above the battery and in rooms with electrical sources that can cause damage to the block processor. After selecting the place, you must check the wall on the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, plumbing or heating pipes.

If the site is free, mount the mounting plate: retreat from the ceiling 10 cm, from the angle of the wall 5 cm and mark the horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes under the fasteners and securely screw the plate. The inside block of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which the hole for communication on the connection - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for the condensate hoses are drilled in the side wall.

Connecting electrical wiring

For the indoor unit, they pave their, the minimum cross section is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install a shutdown machine. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the shield on entering: a yellow wire with a green strip is connected to a zero wire. To determine zero and phases, use the indicator.

After that, isolated multiple wires connect the terminals of both blocks, passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must necessarily coincide with the wires, all clearly painted in the instructions attached to the air conditioner.

Copper tubes must be cut, leaving the margin of bends around the meter. When disinhibited tubes, special tools are used that allow you to avoid wrinkles, dents and tightening metal. On the prepared tubes, heat insulation are insulation - polyurethane foam hoses. Porolon is not suitable as a seal, as it has a short life.

Threaded flanges are dressed on insulated pipes, while the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next stage is the rolling of the tubes. It is necessary to perform the flaws very carefully so that cracks and grooves are not formed on the tubes. The nut should be easily dressing on the rolling, and it is better to produce a dynamometric tightening of a key - this will eliminate the extrusion of fragrant compounds from the nut.

Alternately attach pipelines to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are twisted on the fittings so that the connection is dense, but not shifted, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the phone. In conclusion, a segment of a plastic tube with a reinforced housing is connected to the flow nozzle. Mounting is performed by a piece of heat-insulated tube or a threaded flange if it is included. The drainage tube should be removed from the carrier wall as far as possible.

Now the pipes are hardened in the hole, align, from the outdoor side it is fixed tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is recorded next to, the pipeline is connected to the external block. The hole is placed by mounting foam or fill with silicone. All outer compounds are checked with a bicycle pump and a soapy solution for tightness. If somewhere passes the air, the threads are tightened denser. After checking, the soapfile is erased with a thread with a clean cloth.

System vacuuming

Wakuuming the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is performed after the sealing of threaded connections, otherwise the air will not fully turn out. To do this, connect the vacuum pump to the system and the air is pumped out for an hour.

Filling and testing air conditioning

The refrigerant of the cylinder must be downloaded. The adapter and pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly follow the pressure, fill the tank. When the process is completed, an air conditioner includes an indoor disconnecting, after which the system independently enters the test mode. If everything works without failures, and cold air circulation becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, remove the effects of mounting and enjoy cool.

Find out how it is held, and also familiarize yourself with the step-by-step management, from our new article.

Prices for model range of air conditioners

Conditioners