Parquet flooring laying parquet laying massive boards. Methods for self-laying massive boards. Method # 1 - joists on the screed

Massive board is considered the most expensive, durable, environmentally friendly and durable option floor covering. But in order for the floor to last as long as possible while maintaining all the technical and operational characteristics, laying massive board must be carried out in accordance with the technology. There are several mounting options depending on the type of base on which the array is laid. We will tell you how to lay a massive board. In addition, you need to know which screws to use as fasteners. We will also describe several layout schemes that will help create a beautiful pattern of wooden flooring in the apartment.

Laying a massive board on a screed

Laying a solid board on a screed without plywood is done on an equal footing. concrete base. To fix the dies on the base, a special glue is used. It is better to glue the boards with an adhesive that is resistant to temperature changes. This adhesive is suitable for underfloor heating.

Laying is done after preparing the base:

• permissible humidity of the base - no more than 6 percent (to check, use a moisture meter or use a piece of plastic film, glue it with tape and check for condensation through knocks, it should not be);
• all irregularities are eliminated (knocked down or puttied), the allowable height difference is no more than 2 mm for every two meters;
• the screed is primed in several layers;
• the laying of the board is carried out after the primer layer has dried.

Important! Immediately after purchase, the array is allowed to mature in the room where the laying will be done for about a week. During this time, the product adapts to the humidity and temperature of the room.

When laying a massive board on a screed, they begin to glue the elements in rows only after the dies in one row are laid out dry and adjusted to size. If the laying is done independently, then a wide, even spatula is used to apply the glue, and products with teeth are used to level it. The laying principle is similar to the installation of engineering and parquet flooring.

Laying solid board on plywood

In our climate, the technology of laying massive boards on a plywood base is more often used. This method involves the arrangement of additional waterproofing. Laying on plywood is done in the same way as described above, that is, with gluing the boards with glue. However, it is equally important to properly prepare the base:

1. Plywood 50 by 50 cm or 50 by 70 cm is suitable for the base (so the surface stress of the material will not accumulate in the sheet). Optimal Thickness- not less than 12 mm.
2. Sheets are laid with a joint offset in each subsequent row. A gap of 3 mm is left between the elements, and 15 mm are retreated from the walls to prevent floor deformation when the temperature and humidity in the room change.
3. For gluing plywood, polyurethane glue or mastic is used, which is applied in a thin layer over the length of the entire row.
4. After fixing to the glue, the sheets are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws to the base. Often, craftsmen have a question about which screws to fasten plywood to a wooden floor. It is not advisable to use expensive Spax self-tapping screws for these needs. Nails or ordinary self-tapping screws with dowels will do. For each square take 9 fasteners.
5. The moisture content of the plywood base should be no more than 10%.
6. After that, the floor is polished to get rid of small irregularities, and the installation sites of the fasteners are puttied.
7. Then proceed to laying the array. The massive board is being laid on the glue. The dies are fixed on a two-component adhesive composition, and every 30 cm they are additionally fixed with nails or self-tapping screws to the floor. Spax solid wood screws are ideal for this purpose.
8. The surface is then cleaned and sanded.

Mounting the board on the lags

Laying massive parquet on logs is carried out during the reconstruction of the premises or, if it is necessary to level an uneven base without dismantling the old base. Laying on logs is also carried out when arranging podiums, stages and height differences in residential and commercial premises.

Installation takes place in the following sequence:

1. Before arranging the log, the old floor is additionally insulated with polyethylene or penofol.
2. Two logs are laid out along opposite walls of the room and cords are pulled between them in increments of one and a half meters.
3. All subsequent elements are mounted along the stretched threads.
4. For better sound and heat insulation, the space between the bars is filled with insulation.
5. After that, the base of the lag is sewn up with fiberboard sheets.
6. Next, the array is laid in the same way as in the case of mounting on a plywood base.

Types of solid board fasteners

To fix an array to wooden base often used construction stapler. The brackets are driven into the lower protruding part of the groove. Usually fasteners are used for 12-16 mm. Staples are driven in along the entire length of the board in increments of 100 mm. At the same time, the brackets are first attached to the edges of the board, its evenness is checked and the rest of the fasteners are installed.

Important! Staples should not rise above the groove surface by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, they are finished off with a screwdriver with a narrow sting. Hammer blows on the screwdriver should be gentle so as not to split the groove.

It is best to use Spax solid wood screws. After installing the plate, it is pressed down with a load to protect it from displacement. At an angle to the floor (30-40 degrees), drill a hole in the groove of the board and the base. Install a self-tapping screw in seat. To fix each board, three self-tapping screws are used: one in the central part and two indented from the edge by 20 cm.

Attention! Use a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. Drill the hole to a depth of 3 cm. In order not to drill too much, make a mark on the drill from an insulating tape.

Floating board laying

The floating laying method implies that the array will not be rigidly connected to the base, that is top coat will, as if "float" on the basis. This mounting method is suitable for underfloor heating as the surface will be able to withstand sudden temperature changes without warping.

Usually laying is done on a special substrate. The boards are fastened together with a lock connection, but are not fixed in addition to the draft base. For a strong connection of the elements to each other, special brackets are used. The advantages of this installation include the following:

• quick and easy installation;
• fixing the elements together with the help of special brackets increases the resistance of the floor to mechanical stress;
• the method is environmentally friendly, since glue, primers, etc. are not used;
• the possibility of local repair;
• deformations are excluded.

Layout options

There are several options for array layout:

1. Traditional styling scatter. In this case, the seam offset in each subsequent row is at least 25 cm. This method allows you to emphasize the natural beauty and naturalness of the coating.
2. Fitting option - brickwork. The end joint of the elements in each subsequent row falls in the middle of the element in the previous row.
3. Diagonal styling allows you to emphasize the geometry of the room, hide its flaws and visually expand the boundaries of space. The displacement of the seam can be chaotic (randomly) or according to the principle of brickwork.
4. Triple brickwork. With this layout option, the end seams of the elements in three adjacent rows coincide, and in the next three they are shifted by half the element.
5. herringbone made of elements of small length. In this case, the solid wood floor is very similar to parquet or parquet board.
6. Since you can find on sale decorative elements for products from the array, let's say herringbone with inserts. Usually use contrasting inserts of a square configuration.
7. Option weaving with inserts also resembles a parquet floor. Usually they adhere to a diagonal layout, having made an element of a square configuration from several parallel-laid floorboards. Around it place the same elements of floorboards laid in the opposite direction. A small discrepancy in size is compensated by inserts.
8. Brickwork with inserts looks more impressive than traditional brickwork. Contrasting color elements create an interesting pattern on the floor. Diagonal variant available.
9. Square laying implies the formation of elements of a square configuration from several parallel stacked dies. In the next square, the direction of the plates is changed. The pattern resembles a braid without inserts.
10. deck laying suitable for rooms small size. In this case, one long and short board is laid in one row. In the next row, they change places.
11. Cross stacking implies laying the dies parallel to each other in one row. The next row is a few boards laid traditional way in one row in the direction opposite to the previous one.

The floor covering is mounted at the final stage of repair. At least two months before the start of laying, all interior work causing an increase in indoor humidity. At the time of installation, the relative humidity of the air should be 40 - 60% at a temperature of 18 - 24°C.

Laying solid board on screed without plywood, plank flooring or chipboard in a floating way is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is even, solid and dry. It should also be borne in mind that heavy furniture can deform the floor.

The presence of a tongue and groove or “Click” lock makes it easy to install a solid board. This allows the floor to be laid in a "floating way" without being connected to the subfloor. You can lay the array yourself, armed with knowledge on the Internet or taking advice from familiar pros.

The advantages of this styling:

• high installation speed;
• the cost of laying a massive board (no need to buy glue and other components);
• ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
• the absence of a rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal contraction or expansion of wood.

For self-assembly, the following tools are required:

Before laying a massive board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.

IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All internal work must be completed before board installation.

Foundation required check for humidity. To do this, there is a device that measures its performance in percent. Ignoring the measurement at the first stage means getting soon:

- fungus (it can easily start in a humid environment);

- warping (under the influence of dampness, the floor is able to swell and deform).

The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show - no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it was possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed to the screed overnight. In the morning, examine the place under it and if perspiration appears, then the humidity is increased. German scientists, after conducting such a study, found out: in the place where perspiration did not come out, the moisture meter showed 6%.

Test of strength will guarantee for long-term use coatings. You can do your own research:

• Walk on it. It crumbles underfoot, you can feel the sand - the worst option. This thread needs to be redone.
• Look carefully. Visible chips and recesses need to be puttied.
• With visual impeccability, it is worth walking along the screed with a sharp object. On an ideal coating, damage will not remain.

For laying a wooden floor, the following indicators of the base will be excellent: for compression - 25 MPa, for shear - 7 MPa. Accurate indicators will be recorded by a device - Schmidt's hammer, which calculates the shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).

An epoxy two-component primer will additionally strengthen the base.

In addition to strength and moisture, It is worth paying attention to how even the base is. The allowable height difference is 2 mm per 2 linear meters. Deviation from the norm in big side change the geometry of the floor. Check the evenness of the base will help a two-meter rail or building rule(which will be at hand). They need to be held along the base and check the tightness of the rail to the floor. Identified recesses should be puttied, and the protrusions should be sanded.

ATTENTION. After graduation preparatory work debris, sand, dust should be removed. Vacuum and prime the surface thoroughly. At the exit before laying the screed must be smooth and clean.

Substrate

The next stage of work is laying the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For "floating laying" use the following types of substrates:

• from foamed polyethylene;
• cork;
• rubber;
• fabric.

When choosing a substrate, you need to consider in which room it will be used. Wrong opinion - choose thicker. This can lead to floor creaking in the future. For flat surface 2 mm will suffice. When laying, the substrate roll is rolled out gradually. You need to make sure that the edges do not overlap.

Temperature and humidity gaps

Gender out natural wood, laid in a floating way, is much more responsive to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all the elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have room to "move". In their absence, the floor covering will swell. The gaps are 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 \u003d 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and prevention of displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire contiguous area. After all the gaps will hide under the decorative plinth.

Screed mounting

Before installing the floor, it is necessary that the material lie in the room for 2-3 days. It is undesirable to open the package. A sharp fluctuation in temperature will cause the array to change. First of all, you need to cull. Boards damaged in transit must not be installed. They must be returned or replaced before the installation of a massive board.

Spread - from the far left corner deck or diagonal way, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important in technological and aesthetic terms.

REFERENCE. Butt joints must be shifted with a certain step to strengthen the joints. For an array, the gap must be at least 40 cm.

The first board is placed with a comb against the wall. The next boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, knocking only on the bar. After laying three rows, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet field. Having planted the board in the center, move smoothly, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to one with glue.

Shutdown

The last row should be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since walls always have a certain curvature, the values ​​will differ. Each board should be adjusted separately by a longitudinal cut to the required size at the installation site (you should remember about compensation gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use the mounting foot. It will help to firmly press one board to another.

We remove the expansion wedges and. His should be fixed directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor during contraction or expansion.

On plywood

Necessary materials:

• grinder (or circle);
• electric jigsaw;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• primer;
• glue for massive boards;
• plywood - 10 mm;
• spatulas (including those with teeth);
• roulette;
• pencil;
• square;
• coating (lacquer, wax).

Plywood - good foundation for natural board. It is attached to the screed, logs, wooden floor. If the concrete base is in poor condition, it must be refilled to ensure evenness. Withstanding time to shrink and dry bulk screed, sand it thoroughly. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust construction vacuum cleaner. Coat the entire surface with epoxy primer. You should pause for complete drying.

Cut plywood sheets into rectangular fragments to cover the entire surface. before laying, for a firm fit of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed. Next, the plywood is attached to the cement base with dowels.

Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2-3 mm between the rectangles themselves.

Sand the surface, remove dust and you can start laying the array on plywood. Before laying a massive board, plywood is smeared with two-component glue to the width of one board.

Glue

Suitable universal adhesive for consisting of polyurethane mixtures and hardener. We recommend choosing an adhesive without odor, water and solvent. which does not call allergic reactions upon contact with human skin, it dries quickly and firmly holds natural wood coatings. German manufacturers adhere to such a high bar.

• During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the comb falls into the groove, gently tapping the board along the entire length. To increase strength, each board is fixed with self-tapping screws every 25 - 30 cm. After installation is completed, clean the entire floor surface.
• First, the array should be well driven into the groove, and only then nailed.
• Buying quality flooring is cheaper. It is necessary to take an untreated board in a hardware store, carefully sand it, clean it of dust and apply varnish. At self processing you can save 25% of the cost of the same material already coated or buy.
• For temperature gaps, it is better to insert two dies on one board.

CAREFULLY. When installing with glue, you need to be extremely careful. By putting a lot of glue, you can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when you tap the dice with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. They will be "opened" by daylight. It is difficult to remove dried-up blotches. You will need a special cleaner. It should be used while working.

• After completion of laying, a natural solid wood floor should, as it were, stand in complete tranquility for 24 hours.
• To extend the period of use, during the operation of the premises, it is recommended to observe the temperature and humidity conditions.
• When cleaning, use special care products.
• Do not flood the floor with water.
• Put a springy mat under the computer chair.
• Pets (cats, dogs) running across the floor can quickly make it unusable. Durable advanced coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.

Useful video

How to lay solid board

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A solid wood board is an absolutely natural, environmentally friendly material. In fact, a modern solid wood floor is a return to the old wooden one, only with the use of completely new technologies.

Massive boards differ from ordinary parquet in that they have protrusions and grooves around the perimeter for tight connection with each other. In addition, due to the increased thickness, the massive board can withstand large quantity scrapers, and therefore will last longer. Properly laying such a board and periodically caring for it, you can forget about the problem of floors for many years.

So, you bought a massive board. It remains to put it correctly. It seems that it is difficult - measure and lay out. But no! If you have spent an impressive amount on coverage, this does not mean that your home will have the perfect floor. Laying a massive board requires jewelry precision. Works on laying a natural floor are fraught with a lot of interesting nuances.

Unlike a "floating" laminate, a solid board should in no case be deformed. Such a floor is laid down for centuries. Follow our instructions and you will have beautiful floors that your grandchildren will run on.

Laying a massive board will require the following tools:

• roulette
• level
• joiner's square
• pencil
• circular saw or table saw
• spatulas: regular and notched
• screwdriver
• grinder
• a vacuum cleaner
• pneumatic stapler (optional)
• hammer

Materials:

• solid board glue
• cement mortar for floor screed
• screws and dowels
• plywood
• massive board

Solid wood laying: technology

1. The technology of laying a massive board requires compliance with a number of conditions. In the room where the floor is laid from natural wood, all "raw" work must be completed. Laying begins with the preparation of the base. The floor must first be leveled with a mortar screed and dried thoroughly. This required condition, because for wood flooring even a small amount of moisture is detrimental. Please be patient as the drying process can take up to 20 days.

2. On this, the preparation of the base is not completed. Next, cover the floor with plywood. It is desirable that it be moisture resistant and dense enough. For example, if the thickness of a massive board is 20 mm, then the plywood must have a thickness of at least 15 mm. Usually plywood has standard sizes 1.5 × 1.5 m - in this case it just needs to be cut into 4 parts. If you bought plywood of non-standard dimensions, you are less fortunate, you will have to use your imagination and cut the material.

3. After cutting the plywood into pieces, lay it apart, leaving small gaps (3-5 mm) between the individual sheets. Fasten each sheet with self-tapping screws with dowels around the perimeter and diagonally (about 25 screws per board). For greater strength, plywood can be additionally planted on glue.

4. The plywood laid in this way is sanded with a parquet machine or by hand.

5. Vacuum the floor thoroughly, especially at the joints.

6. Start laying out the floor from the wall. To do this, draw a straight starting line along the wall. Between the wall and the edge of the laid boards, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-10 mm wide.

Lay the first row without glue. The grooves are connected in the same way as the laminate.

Measure and cut, if necessary, the last board.

Natural wood floors, even from one package, will slightly differ in color, texture or pattern. Take it for granted.

Once again, measure the resulting rows with a tape measure and a level.

Unlike laminate flooring, solid flooring cannot be moved after installation. All "problem" places are also recommended to be laid first without glue.

8. Mark each row with a pencil and disassemble the boards.

You can make a special template with which it will be easy to mark the next rows.

9. Only two-component anhydrous glue is used to glue the solid board to the floor. It is important! Glue on water based may cause deformation of the floors. Dilute the glue according to the instructions.

To evenly distribute the adhesive, first use a regular trowel, then a notched trowel.

Glue should not be too much.

10. Knock out the resulting rad with a hammer and a wooden blank.

In order not to spoil the front surface of the floor, the tamping blank can be cut in such a way that it comes into contact only with bottom boards.

11. To make the boards stick better, screw them to the floor with small screws or fix them with nails. Screws are screwed into the comb at an angle of 40-60 degrees. For these purposes, you can also use a pneumatic stapler.

12. Lay out the remaining floor in the same way.

13. Wait until the floor is completely dry - it is ready.

We hope that the massive board laying technology described in our master class will help you get beautiful, even floors without cracks and gaps.

Floor covering made of whole array wood lasts for decades, and this is a fact. The material is warm, highly aesthetic and cozy. Modern technology laying a massive board differs significantly from the old methods of installation. Read the details below.

The array is long planks of solid wood of valuable species: oak, beech, larch, cherry, walnut. Large manufacturers use especially hard and exotic species - teak, bamboo, jatoba, zebrano, merbau, etc. Sizes are variable:

• The thickness of the massive board (depending on the scope of application) - 9-26 mm;
• Product width - from 100 to 220 mm;
• Length - from 300 to 1500 mm.

Along the perimeter of the slats there is a tongue-and-groove lock (“thorn-groove”), which allows you to assemble the array into a single, monolithic coating. On the wrong side, special “grooves” are cut to compensate for internal stresses and prevent deformation.

The surface can be clean or factory-finished with oil, varnish or oil-wax. In the first case, after laying, a small additional grinding and protective covering(preferably based on fat-containing mixtures, since the varnish film may crack due to temperature and humidity changes). In some collections, a chamfer is cut along the perimeter, and its depth for unprotected paintwork strips must be at least 2 mm.

If earlier the shade of the flooring depended on the type of wood, today it is not so important. Modern paints and varnishes allow you to get more than 5000 shades, from snow white to deep black. Therefore, when choosing, it is better to pay attention to the hardness of a massive board, its resistance to atmospheric changes, etc.

When sorting a massive board for the floor, several categories are distinguished:

The name of each manufacturer may change, but the essence is the same - grade 1, 2 or 3, and, accordingly, the presence or absence of various defects. Of course, the price also depends on this parameter. The Select array is a premium class coating, therefore it will cost several times more than products from the Rustic series.

Board laying

Professional laying of the array is carried out according to the "run-up" method or with an offset of 1/3. In this case, the method of double fixation is used: on glue and hardware (special self-tapping screws with self-drilling caps, parquet "studs").

The reason for this "reinsurance" is simple: wood is subject to deformation. That is, it changes linear dimensions depending on humidity, temperature, season. Gluing and additionally pulling the planks with fasteners to the base will ensure the rigidity of the fastening, prevent gaps from appearing over time, warping of the planks.

1. Performance installation work carried out only after the completion of all types of rough finish, allowing humidification or heating of the air. Including laying tiles, plastering or painting walls and ceilings, wallpapering, etc.
2. The air temperature in the room should be in the range from +18 °С to +25 °С, humidity - 40-60%.
3. Transportation takes place in covered cars and storage in a dry, ventilated area.
4. The vast majority of manufactured solid boards are not intended for laying on floor heating systems.
5. Before work, it is necessary to withstand the so-called acclimatization period - at least 48 hours.
6. After laying in the rooms, it is necessary to maintain optimal microclimate parameters: humidity within 40-60%, and air temperature - + 18- + 22 ºС.

Laying a massive board on plywood of a moisture-resistant series, for example, FK birch, is recognized as the most optimal.

This material is considered particularly durable, as it is able to withstand significant loads in various directions, and due to the multi-layered changes linear dimensions minimal. Minimum Thickness plywood substrate - from 10 mm and more.

It is also allowed to lay a massive board on a screed without plywood or a wooden floor. But with careful preparation. In any case, you will need the following set of tools and tools for installation:

The installation of a massive board is divided into 3 stages:

Foundation preparation

The subfloor must be:

If installation is planned on a mineral base, take care of preliminary waterproofing. For this, it is better to use special primers of the coating type. They are applied in a continuous layer on the entire surface of the floor with an institution on the walls.

Coating laying

It is necessary to start installation from a solid wall of the room from left to right. Glue must be applied to the width of the plank on the base notched trowel. The starting board is installed with an edge groove to the wall, spacer wedges are placed in the gap. The row is fixed with self-tapping screws or parquet studs at an angle of 45º with an interval of 25-30 cm.

If the laid wood is from the category of extra hard, it is recommended to pre-drill holes in the planks for self-tapping screws to prevent cracking.

Having laid the first strip, the next one is attached to it with the help of profile tongue-and-groove locks, and the installation begins with the cut fragment. If necessary, the strips must be carefully knocked out or pulled with a mounting bracket.

The last row is cut in such a way as to leave a technological gap of 8-12 mm between the coating and the wall. And the width of the slats should not be less than 5-10 cm.

Walk on ready massive floor possible within 24-72 hours after completion of work. Grinding and subsequent processing is allowed after 3-7 days.

Finishing

If the coating was treated with protective agents at the factory, then after laying and drying the adhesive, it is enough to carry out the first thorough cleaning with special means caring for wood flooring.

An array with a clean surface after a technological break must be slightly sanded and applied protective impregnation, finishing oil or oil-wax according to package instructions.

Application protective oil to an array.

For proper service of the coating at the entrance, lay dirt-proof mats, pad furniture legs with felt pads, and install silicone mats under chairs or tables on wheels. Treat the floor periodically special formulations containing wax and other reducing agents. This will help keep your solid wood in perfect condition for years to come.

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