Repair Design Furniture

How to put scaffolding around the house. Rules for the installation of scaffolding. For the manufacture of trestles you need

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding do-it-yourself durable and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of species scaffolding, their designs contain elements identical in purpose:

  1. Vertical racks (perceive the workload and transfer it to the ground).
  2. Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
  3. Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
  4. Flooring (boards knocked together, serving as a working platform for builders).
  5. Stubborn cuts (prevent scaffolding from overturning).
  6. Railings (protect workers from falling).
  7. Ladders (used for lifting and descending from working platforms).

The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.. Wooden structure cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but has no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to do makeshift scaffolding profiled metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands

Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, you should do schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:

  • the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
  • distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
  • working platform width - 1 meter.

It has been established by ergonomics that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

  • For cutting racks and thrust braces - a bar with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick.
  • Spacers, ties and railings can be made from a "thirty" edged board.
  • For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures, self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:

  • on a flat platform, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut to size according to the height of the scaffolding;
  • racks are connected with horizontal jumpers, on which the working flooring will be laid;
  • two resulting frames of the "ladder" are placed vertically one against the other and connect them with diagonal and horizontal ties;
  • flooring from boards is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
  • forests are fixed on two side cuts-stops;
  • railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to wood. The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

  1. Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and jumpers (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
  2. thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters for diagonal ties).
  3. Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
  4. Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
  5. 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

  • to the assembly board (OSB sheet), the scaffolding racks are rigidly fixed with clamps ( high accuracy when working with metal - a very important factor);
  • horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
  • adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
  • having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly shield, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the shield with clamps;
  • ends and middle thin-walled pipes, intended for diagonal stretch marks, are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled in them;
  • tightening the two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
  • screeds are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
  • holes for bolted connections are drilled on racks and railings;
  • plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe segments;
  • the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
  • on the side jumpers lay the flooring from the board "forty".

Useful advice: to exclude longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties should be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for fastening the profile pipe of the thrust slope, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolding in length).

Or the production of such construction works like painting the facade or filing cornices, scaffolding is widely used.

Currently, it is possible to rent inventory scaffolding or scaffolding, and return it after the work is completed. But this is justified only in the production of work that takes a short period of time. If the construction is carried out exclusively on their own and for a long enough time, then the rent will be very expensive. Therefore, most of the future property owners prefer to make scaffolding with their own hands.

Most often, private traders use the following types of forests:

  • Scaffolding supported by trestles - suitable for such "quick" work as painting the facade is not too high house, the device of cornice overhangs of the roof, If desired, from them it is also possible to fill the formwork with concrete and brickwork walls.
  • Scaffolding envelopes are used mainly in the construction of houses.
  • Attached wooden frame scaffolding- good for both construction and home renovation.

Scaffolding on goats

Traguses are often used not only in construction, but also in external and interior decoration Houses. Their advantages are:

  • cheapness;
  • ease of manufacture;
  • light weight;
  • mobility.

Such scaffolding consists of two trestles, knocked together from boards, and a flooring, which can be either just a set of individual boards cut to length, or a solid knocked down board shield. Using a shield allows you not to worry that the boards will “disperse” under your feet.

For the manufacture of goats you need:

  • edged board with a thickness of 30 - 50 mm;
  • nails or screws;
  • for screeding parts together, you can use steel corners 50 * 50 mm (if any);
  • drill or screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • roulette.

Beforehand, it is desirable to throw a simple sketch with dimensions in order to properly cut and prepare the parts for assembly. The central beam of the tragus can be either just a thick board or a structure of three boards like a channel, to which the legs are sewn at an angle.

Greater rigidity, the legs can be pulled together with crossbars, and jibs can be nailed from the ends. The length of the deck depends on how large the work area needs to be. But do not make the flooring too long, otherwise you will have to put another tragus in the center.

Envelope scaffolding

This is a design that is attached directly to the wall.

  • The main structural part of such scaffolding is triangular support platforms made of boards 50 mm thick. They are l-shaped brackets, sheathed on the sides with a board (25 * 100 mm). The size of one shelf of such an arm usually does not exceed 400 mm. This is due to the fact that the shelf is a support for the working platform. A smaller size can lead to a lack of space on the scaffolding, and a larger one can cause the structure to detach from the wall and, as a result, injure people working on the scaffolding.
  • The brackets are attached to the wall at a height where the installation of the working floor is planned. They are usually fixed with nails, pressing the vertical arm of the bracket against the wall.
  • Additionally, the brackets are supported by long boards-supports with a section of 100 * 50 mm, installed at an angle and rested on the ground. For better adhesion to the ground, the lower ends of the props are pointed.

Wood for the manufacture of envelopes must be of high quality, this provides the structure with sufficient reliability.

wooden scaffolding

Most often for the low-rise sector use wooden scaffolding consisting of a system of supports and flooring. They serve both to lift workers to the required height, and to place them on them. building materials and tool.
Forests can be of considerable height and be multi-tiered. There are some General requirements, which apply to all scaffolding and scaffolding:

  • They must be reliable. The margin of their strength should allow them to easily withstand the weight of materials and workers placed on them.
  • The design should be economical, but not at the expense of reliability.
  • The design of scaffolding should be simple and convenient not only for operation, but also for assembly and disassembly.
  • It is desirable that the material of scaffolding and scaffolding can be reused after construction is completed.

The simplest scaffold design consists of the following elements:

  • Support legs - vertical supports, which can be made of high-quality edged boards (100 * 50 mm) or timber (100 * 100 mm). It is important that the boards and beams are intact, without rot, cracks and insect damage. If necessary, the racks can be spliced ​​along the length. The elements are joined end-to-end and fixed with side plates.
  • crossbars - it is they who, taking the load from the working floor, transfer it to the racks. The same requirements apply to the material of the cross members as for the uprights. They must represent single element. If splicing is necessary, then it is carried out with an additional support.
  • Braces - connect the racks diagonally. They can be made from slats or even slabs.
  • Flooring - ladders laid on the crossbars. They are the main work surface.

Edged or not can be used edged boards. Top flooring can be sewn sheet material. To prevent materials and tools from falling from the flooring, a board board is sewn along its outer part. To give the structure greater stability, it can be supported by slopes, which are made from boards 25–30 mm thick.

Scaffolding Rules

To build scaffolding, you will need the following tool:

  • saw;
  • level;
  • hammer.

When erecting wooden scaffolding, the following rules must be observed:

  • Before installing scaffolding, it is necessary to level and tamp the base. , then to support the racks it is necessary to make wooden platforms.
  • The step of the racks can be 1 - 2 m.
  • Each structural node must have at least three attachment points.
  • As fasteners, it is better to use large self-tapping screws. If nails are used for this, then with reverse side they need to be bent.
  • Handrails must be installed on the inside of the racks - this will prevent workers from falling from the scaffolding.
  • For the convenience of work, the width of the flooring between the racks should be from 50 to 100 cm.

Work procedure

Scaffolding is assembled in the following sequence:

  1. First, with the help of diagonal ties, the racks are fastened together. For reliability, you can use not only nails and screws, but also corners.
  2. Then, at the required height, the elements of the crossbars are attached.
  3. Horizontal decking boards are fixed on them.
  4. Railings are sewn on.
  5. If necessary, to give the structure additional stability, slopes are installed.
  6. To climb the scaffolding, it is also necessary to secure it to the side of the scaffolding, although ladders can also be used.

For greater reliability, using additional wooden elements, scaffolding can be connected to the wall of the house.

If in own forces and you are afraid that it may be difficult to collect homemade scaffolding, you can choose the option of renting collapsible scaffolding.

If you decide to build a house, do-it-yourself scaffolding can be easily made. The basis of this design can be wood. Before starting work, it is important to know that the equipment will include support posts, lintels, decking, stairs, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. It is worth preferring wooden scaffolding, it will be much easier to make them with your own hands than metal ones. However, such forests are not intended for significant loads. After the design can be disassembled and used individual elements for another purpose. but reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of the assembly of wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, then you will need to follow some rules. The design should be easy to use, which is why between the racks should be provided minimum distance, equal to 2 m, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you need to be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When scaffolding is made by hand, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, in this case, one cannot do without a square-section beam with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards, you need to choose or purchase those that have a thickness of 30 millimeters. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to measure. Well, if the master has it Circular Saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber, which is devoid of cracks. If raw wood is preferred, then it will significantly weight the structure. Among other things, after drying, the structure may be deformed. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Frame work

If scaffolding will be made with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to deal with the frame, while four pieces of timber will be used, which must be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on an even, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which has a length of four meters. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed on the inside of the support beams. Smaller blanks are reinforced along the top edge, while larger ones are installed along the bottom. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal braces.

Frame installation

If do-it-yourself scaffolding is made, then the next step will be to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The step between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the top edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are located in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. Finished scaffolding should take the form of a pyramid, and its side parts should be located strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the upper bars that are located across. It is better to fix them along the width of the frame. Elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional elements located across should be fixed, which will be convenient to use as a ladder.

An alternative option for making scaffolding

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one that was developed by yourself. For work, lumber of different sections and sizes should be prepared. For example, horizontal decking should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be equal to 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Fence rails can have this parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you have planned not only the construction of a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise to perform the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with the repair work.

Conclusion

Bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a section of 10x10 cm, it is desirable to make them reinforced, since elements of a smaller section reduce the strength of such a structure. When doing scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum allowable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure tipping over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up on electric tools, otherwise the work will take a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, self-tapping screws can be used. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with their own hands, then as the very important requirement stands for safety. This is due to the fact that such structures can have a rather impressive height, a fall from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber, you should only purchase high-quality and well-dried wood. Only if these rules are observed, it will be possible to achieve an excellent result, which implies the strength and reliability of scaffolding. Such structures can be operated even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subjected to negative external influences.

It will not be difficult for the owner of a private house to make scaffolding with his own hands, if he has the skills to handle welding equipment and various tools. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repair of surfaces of facades of buildings at a height. The structure is erected around the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the walls of the facade.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The construction of the structures is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal braces. Platforms are floorings made of wooden boards or other materials. message between different levels construction is carried out with the help of stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

  1. Shoes.
  2. Vertical racks and horizontal connections.
  3. Flooring.
  4. Railing.
  5. Stairs.
  6. Grid.

shoes

Supports for vertical racks are shoes (thrust bearings). Usually these are metal platforms with vertical nests for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, gaskets and rolling shoes made of wood or metal are used.

Shoes are the final structural elements of scaffolding, transferring the entire load from the structure to the soil base. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the places for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will warp, and the structure will become unusable. To prepare the support sites, a level or laser level is used.

Vertical racks and horizontal connections

Racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of low height within 2 - 3 storey building apply wooden beam. Much more often used racks of metal pipes.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connection nodes between frame elements are performed in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the sites of structures.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, performs the function of connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffold frame.

railing

All openings facing outward must have railings. Fences are made of timber 50 × 50 mm. The railing is located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

stairs

Transitions between different levels of the sites are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be completely wooden or welded from a steel profile. Dural ladders are not uncommon in the arrangement of forests.

It is advisable to install the stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows the worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Grid

According to requirements building codes and rules (SNiP), all forests must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating green color(international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

  • Prevents accidental fall of workers.
  • Prevents falling out various items outside the work area.
  • Protects from bright sunlight.
  • Protects the facade of the building during the painting works from the ingress of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the racks along the facade of the building is made from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines transverse dimension between the outer and inner fencing of the scaffolding must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

For the construction of a lumber frame, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Hand or circular saw.
  • Hammer and pincers.
  • Roulette and level.
  • Nails.
  • Wooden beam with a section of 100 × 100 mm, 50 × 50 mm.
  • Boards with a section of 100 × 30 mm, 100 × 40 mm.

The thickness of lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. Lumber must be dry, without large knot formations and cracks. Under no circumstances should raw wood be used. In addition to the fact that a wet tree has a lot of weight, it can significantly deform when it dries.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

  1. On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to the size of the height of the scaffolding.
  2. Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
  3. Racks are knocked down with nails by crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at the rate of not more than 50 cm from the ground. Top beams should be at floor level.
  4. The resulting frames are laid on their side, securing the position with temporary supports.
  5. The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
  6. The structure is turned over to the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal ties are repeated.
  7. During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
  8. Platforms from pieces of board are nailed to the supports from below.
  9. On the places where the forests will stand, roofing felt or roofing material is laid.
  10. The scaffold is raised to a vertical position in such a way that the legs of the structure fit exactly into the intended places.
  11. With the help of linings, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
  12. Install the flooring. The flooring is a downed longitudinal boards with a transverse beam.
  13. Floor boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
  14. FROM outside scaffolding above the flooring is nailed with railings from boards.
  15. Install a ladder leading to the upper platform.
  16. For convenient and safe movement of workers, a railing for the stairs is installed.
  17. As the structure is erected, based on the individual characteristics of the facade, temporary fixation of the scaffolding can be used with the help of additional connections with the elements of the building. These are struts, slopes and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are dismantled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding from metal pipes

The supporting structures of metal profile scaffolding may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fasteners.

Wedge scaffolding

Connection nodes include support platforms with mounting holes, which include wedge-shaped holders of support elements. Making such designs yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fasteners

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite laborious and time consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that the structures can “hug” the facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to the simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolds are especially popular with home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacture and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you start making multi-level pipe scaffolding, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Instruments:

  • Electrical block.
  • Corner machine (Bulgarian).
  • Electric drill.
  • Bending device.
  • Level.

Materials:

  1. Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
  2. Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
  3. Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
  4. Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
  5. Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

  1. Smooth reinforcement is cut into segments, 40 cm long.
  2. On the bending device, the pieces of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, receiving support pins.
  3. The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. Half a piece of smooth reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is put on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
  4. A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, equal in length to the height of the scaffolding.
  5. Sleeves 200 mm long are cut from a pipe ø 20 mm with a grinder.
  6. A tape measure and a marker mark the places for welding vertical sleeves.
  7. Sleeves are welded to uprights. On the corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 between them.
  8. On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
  9. Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are turned down.
  10. Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20 × 20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
  11. The height of the nests (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Usually nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
  12. The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
  13. Shields are knocked down from boards and timber with nails, which will serve as flooring.
  14. Where the flooring will rest on the extreme beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the bottom of the shield. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards in such a way that the beam from the pipe passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire frame of the scaffolding.
  15. In the docking points of the shields to cross beam segments from a steel corner are welded on both sides so that the horizontal shelves of the corners are flush with the pipe.
  16. Pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the nests.
  17. In places where stair passages will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring boards.
  18. If it is necessary to lengthen the racks in height, then sleeves from pipes of a larger diameter are welded to the upper ends of the supports, which form the sockets for attaching the upper racks.
  19. Ladders are welded from segments of the same pipes.
  20. Racks lead to a vertical position.
  21. The pins are inserted into the sockets.
  22. Lay the flooring.
  23. Install stairs.

The forests are ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Clamp scaffold assembly

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. Of the tools, only wrenches are required.

Along with this, it should be noted that the installation and removal of clamps require a significant amount of time. Clamps are quite expensive. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large number of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. For this it is good to use grinder with emery wheel.

After that, the structures are primed with an agent for outdoor work on metal. Dried pipes are covered with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

With intensive use of scaffolding, metal elements are tinted once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are tinted as needed. Store scaffolding in a dry ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This is the popular name for simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of bricks or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple fixture, which is triangles with a right angle.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console is placed on the axis. The console presses at one end vertical construction one of the legs to the wall of the building, and the other end rests on the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring is supported.

Do-it-yourself "Armenian scaffolds" are far from safe, and they must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly pay for all the costs of manufacturing structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.

All photos from the article

Are there any regulatory requirements to scaffolds used in laying walls and finishing facades? In this article, we will get acquainted with the documents regulating their construction, and also find out how home-made wood scaffolding is assembled correctly.

Regulations

Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless occupational safety manuals; however, any serious attention to their design is given in only two documents:

  1. GOST 24258-88 describes the use of scaffolding in construction;
  2. SNiP 12-03-99 is dedicated to labor safety in construction; scaffolds are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.

To clarify: the section is devoted not only to forests, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization and auxiliary devices in general.

Let's dive into the requirements.

GOST 24258-88

First of all, GOST normalizes design load on scaffolding, depending on their type and the height of the site above ground level.