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Building technology from a bar of different magnitude. Brusade house do-it-yourself technology build timers with their own hands 9 10

The theme of this article is to install the house from the bar. In it, we will not deepen in the subtleties of individual stages of construction: our goal is to describe the procedure for basic work and give general recommendations for choosing one or another solution.

Construction in full swing. Material - profiled timber.

Foundation

Taking into account the relatively small weight of the log cabins from the bar, with their construction, lightweight and inexpensive types of foundations are commonly used:

  • Column: Poles made of brick or ceramic blocks are plugged at 30-50 centimeters.
  • Ribbon fine brewed: A solid reinforced concrete tape is laid on the same depth.

An important point: with the size of the building over 6x6 meters (the standard length of the bar is 6 meters) the beams of overlapping need an additional support, which is usually one of the internal partitions. Accordingly, the foundation is supplied not only under the outer walls, but also under loading partitions or columns.

Antiseptic protection is required; Preferred breed - larch. The instruction is related to the fact that it is the scarlet that is most susceptible to rotting.

Waterproofing is required between the tree and the foundation. Typical solution - two layers of rubberoid.

According to the belt foundation that does not require the construction of the framework, the first strapping is first stacked - again preferably from larch. And here in most cases the bar is used by the same section, from which walls will be collected. The method of compounds in the corners is hardworth.
For a ribbon foundation, it is possible to calculate materials using a calculator:

Lagi

For lag (they are the beams of the floor) used by the timing segment 100x150 millimeters. Since the direction of load is top down, the bar is crashed into the strapping in a vertical position. Step - 0.9 - 1 meter.

On the side surfaces of the lag at the bottom edge, the mounting bar of the cross section of 30x30 - 40x40 millimeters is styled. In the future, the draft floor will be labeled - the basis for laying insulation.

Walls

How to perform a car installation of a bar with your own hands?

The bar (straight or profiled) is paved with jute and stacked in such a way that the ends in the corners are in a checker order. Jute provides junction seals, compensating for the unevenness of the heat drying and preventing the blowing of the walls.

It is useful: From the point of view of protection against purge, the installation of a profiled timber is preferable. Grooves and ridges in it will protect against drafts no less reliably than sealing. In addition, the moisture of wood is preferable not more than 20 percent: in this case the walls are not threatened with deformation and cracks.

The ideal option is the installation of the house from the glued bar. It will avoid a long break on the shrinkage of the walls before finishing.

What material is used for coppier?

  1. Steel galvanized rods. Zinc coating will protect steel from rust; However, moisture will be condensed on the surface of the heat in the thickness of the wood. When dismantling old log cabins, builders often note that the wood of the log houses it is around steel brazers.

  1. More common option - solid, without blazing and knots, wood. The thickness of the brace is 25-30 millimeters; More often than other breeds used birch. Of course, antiseptic impregnation is extremely desirable.

Corners

The connection of the crowns in the corners is much more vulnerable to the shrinkage, displacement and deformation of wood.

Two qualities are required from the corners:

  1. Strength. The crown should not break or shift even with moderate seismic activity.
  2. Dispositeness, notorious protection against drafts. Note: Installation of the house from a profiled bar of low moisture allows you to forget about this problem only on direct sections of walls. Vertical seams can still be bludging.

To be guaranteed to forget about the problem of drafts, the so-called "warm angle" connection is used (otherwise - the connection "on the indigenous spike"):

  • The end of one of the bars is processed in such a way that it remains spike with a width of 1/4 to 1/2 width of the material and the same length.
  • Under the thorn on the side surface of the adjacent timber, a little wider (approximately 1 mm) grooves is selected. The clearance is needed for seal.

Of course, this is not the only type of angular connection; However, with low complexity, it provides sufficient seal to couple with reliable crown fixation.

Important: The angle is necessarily fixed with the brackets, regardless of their location on direct sections of the walls.

Direct connections

If the length of the walls are greater than the length of the one-piece vehicle, we will have to connect it not only in the corners, but also on the straight area.

How to do it?

  • The most reliable option is the same connection "on the indigenous spike". It is clear that in this case the groove is chosen in the end of one of the connecting bars.
  • Somewhat easier to joy. Since it should not be bludging, the junction is vertically; In this case, the mutual displacement of the sections of the crown is hampered.

In both embodiments, the connection from the crown to the crown is performed with the displacement, so that two joints have not been disposed of directly over each other.

Floor

  1. Initially, the draft floor from the board with a thickness of 20-25 millimeters is laid. Supported by the mounting bar is pre-stovered by us on the side surfaces.
  2. The next step is the laying of vaporizolation. It will protect the blackboard of the draft floor from the posting, and at the same time will not give the insulation to be poured between them.
  3. The insulation is laid on vaporizolation - 100 millimeters of mineral wool.
  4. Wool protects on top of waterproofing. It is quite suitable layer of polyethylene.
  5. On top of the beams, a pinned board is stacked with a thickness of 36 millimeters. Of course, nothing bothers to replace it with plywood or osp; In this case, laying of the transverse beams of lag in increasing no more than 40 cm is required.

Overlapping and partition

The height of the first floor from the floor level can be up to 3.5 meters; Usually, however, builders are limited to a more modest height. It is clear that the higher the ceiling - the greater the price of a square meter. Reasonable minimum - 2.4 meters.

Ceiling beams are laid directly on the upper crown, performing in our case the Mauerlat function. They can be cut with fixation by brazen or fasten with galvanized overhead plates and self-drawing.

With a length of more than 6 meters, the beams are based on the inner partition, which is performed in this case from the bar with a cross section from 100x100 mm. Recall, it should not be relying not just on the floor beams, but on the piles located under them, pillars or the foundation ribbon.

If frame partitions can be attached to the outer walls of screws, the timber must be embedded in them to a depth of about 5 cm.

If the project provides frontones from the bar, they are erected after laying ceiling beams.

Roof

Material for creating a rafter system - a timing segment 50x100 millimeters. Step between rafters - 0.7 - 1 meter. In the general case - the smaller the roof slope, the smaller step: the snow load will increase in this embodiment.

Most popular installation of houses from a bar with roofs of two types:

  • Broken. With it the side walls of the second, attic floor can be made vertical.
  • Straight doubles. The mensard cross section will be triangular, which will greatly limit its useful area.

As an unedged board with a thickness of 40 mm used as a crate under the roof. If ondulin or bitumen tile is assumed as roofing material, a solid shield is collected; In this case, it is more expedient to use OSP or Phaneur. The layer of waterproofing film is necessarily placed under the roof.

Warming and decoration

  • Paul Mansard is laid out already familiar to us with a t-shirt.
  • The insulation of the roof is a cake from the insulation itself, vaporizolation and finishing material. Wooden lining and plasterboard are popular as the latter.
  • Operactions of attic and the first floor are diverted after installing windows and doors.
  • Lucky or water-dispersion paints are used as a finishing coating. Enamel are undesirable because they deprive the tree of one of the main advantages - vapor permeability.

Output

Of course, our acquaintance with the procedure of construction is somewhat superficial (see also the article). Check out the video in this article, where specified information is more clearly shown.

Successes in construction!

Houses from the profiled bar are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. There was a lot of time, and the benefits of wooden houses are only added. Nowadays, such houses are built pretty quickly, because they are going like a children's constructor. This also contributes to the presence of special fastenings and availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled timber independently.

  1. Installation of base and floor
  2. Warming and finishing at home

Features profiled bar

The profiled bar is a building material that is mined from coniferous trees, for example, pines, cedar, ate, larch. If you carefully look at the material, then notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the external one has semi-shaped, or it can also be smooth. On the sides there are special grooves and spikes that allow the timing quickly and efficiently. Ecology is considered the main advantage of the profiled bar, since it is done without the use of glue.

The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments bribe many people. As mentioned above, the profiled bar is quite easy and quickly going, which is a good news for lovers of independent construction. But do not forget that the profiled bar is a tree on which the pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may occur there. Therefore, it is necessary to always handle wood with special protective compositions.

The profiled bar practically does not have cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not suffer moisture. Therefore, it should be closely following the roof and not tighten with its repair. If your home is periodically exposed to cold, additional insulation should be made.

Start building a house from a bar

It is very important to make a project of the house from the profiled bar. When you make a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, as it will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a project of the future home yourself, or you can contact the construction company. Before you begin to prepare for construction, it should be understood that the best time for construction is winter.

If you plan to independently engage in wood workpiece, it is better to do in the cold season and to dry for a long time at home. In this case, the bar will sit evenly and calmly. But you should not fall in extremes - in severe frosts it is better to abandon such work, since the tree can become very fragile.

With an independent workpiece, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to cut the logs evenly and process them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase the ready-made material that will be cut under your requests. Also there will be carved the grooves, and you will just lay out the house from the profiled bar with your own hands, like a constructor.

Construction of the foundation for the house

Before you decide with the necessary type of foundation, study the geological conditions. To do this, find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, look at the design of the foundation of the already built houses in this area. Ribbon foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or slag blocks. The process of building such foundations is quite simple, but is distinguished by a large consumption of material and labor intensity.

For wooden buildings from a bar, a columnary, pile or finely opened ribbon foundation is perfect. Let's look at the constructing scheme of a finely blurred belt basement. It all starts with markup. In this process, it is very important to adhere to accuracy. External and internal corners of the building tick the spicy. After that, you need to combine their cord for giving volume. So you will understand how the foundation should look like.

After that, you can start digging the pit, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it's not worth doing too small depth either, because we are building a house from the profiled bar and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with their rampant deeds. It will be enough for two bayonet shovels. At the same time, you should not retreat from initial markup for more than 20 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to put a rubble pillow. The bottom of the trench within the framework of this procedure is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) in 10 centimeters and a layer of rubble of the same thickness.

You can make a formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formworks are made of wood, in which there are no cracks and seams. When ordering it is better to choose a steel or plastic formwork. You must set the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase the strength, it makes sense to use fittings - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement should be at least 1 centimeter.

It is advisable to use the frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they cannot be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The bars must freely fit into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin to the concrete fill. If you use a wooden formwork, moisten it even so that the tree does not absorb moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after drying the solution.

For insulation, it is possible to use plates of extruded polystyrene foam of 5 centimeters, and on the corners of the foundation - by 8. When the base of the foundation of the house from the profiled timber will be osselane, crushed stone falls on the place of formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The top of the foundation can be isolated by taking advantage of the rubberoid. Then it is necessary to make an inverse fall asleep for which you can use a previously seized soil.

Installation of base and floor

The construction of any house begins with the creation of a series that is placed on the treated and aligned waterproofing foundation. It should be noted that for outer walls it is necessary to use a ram with a cross section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for sex and inner walls - 100 per 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be processed by an antiseptic, for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the lags of the floor, which are desirable to lay on the edge.

Lags can be installed on the foundation of the house and fasten on the chub walls, as shown on the video about houses from the profiled bar. They must be put in the room and leave on there for several days to get used to temperature. Two lags should be positioned on opposite walls and pull the capro-thread between them, every and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guideline on which other lags can be made. Between the lags, gaps and emptiness will be formed, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, foam, isolon, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.

If you lay lags from boards with a thickness of 30 - 40 centimeters, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. With a thin plywood or wood wedges, you can adjust the height of the lag. You can wedges to strengthen using self-tapping screws or long nails. Lags are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can go to the installation and strengthening boards.

From the walls, it is necessary to retreat one and a half centimeter and strengthen the first row of boards on the stretched line. For screws should drill holes. It is necessary to put the board on each lag and strengthen it. If the slots will remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinth or brackets that should be connected to the board and grind up nails. The draft floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. For it, boards with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters are suitable.

The floor can fit with mixing or without offset, judging by the photo of houses from the profiled timber. First you must put the first layer and make it laying the wooden flooring. Remember the waterproofing, which falls on the bottom of the future floor. For these purposes, a foam or dense polyethylene can be used. At the last stage, the floor should be fastened from any material. To do this, the tipped board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.

Construction of walls of profiled timber

To build the walls of the brusade house, it is necessary to post alternate ranks from the bar. Each subsequent row is bonded with a heater (pins for a vertical connection), which does not allow the bruus to shift or twisted. Begroes can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house was built. It is known that braided from metal are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden, and the cost of the house from the profiled timber in this case will increase.

How are made brazen? This occurs according to the method of brickwork, through two or three rows through one. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which is equal to 3 - 4 centimeters. In these holes and will easily be inserted. The distance between the brackets should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay the seal for insulation. Where the outer walls are connected, it is desirable to apply the "Warm Corner" method.

In one bar, it is necessary to cut the protrusion of the required size, and in the other - cut out the groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can alternate grooves and spikes. This will strongly strengthen the structure, and the angles will not be bludging. If you build a house at one and a half years, the second walls must be raised approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions should be included in the capital walls of the floor. For them, it is possible to use a timber with a cross section of 100 to 150 millimeters. Installation of partitions is made only after creating a log.

If the size of the house is large than 6 by 6 meters, one partition should be on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of the house from the profiled bar, the inner walls can be made frame. To do this, it is necessary to create a frame of bars with a cross section of 50 to 50, to strip it with a clapboard or other material. In order for the wooden house to be fire resistant, all its details must be treated with antipiren. You can apply it to walls using a sprayer or painting brush.

And the last moment, which is worth understanding when the walls are built: pay due attention to creating window openings. In the installation places, it is necessary to cut the technological openings through which the air will move during the material drying. When the house is finally running out, you can install windows. Window blocks for the structure of the profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.

Warming and finishing at home

If the thermal insulation of the wooden house will be high-quality, you can reduce the cost of its heating. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The outer finish of the house significantly increases thermal insulation, due to the decrease in the humidity of the bar. She isolates it from various atmospheric precipitation. The most popular types of finishes are lining and siding, but siding is better not to use for a wooden house.

You can use mineral wool, plates from glass gambles, passcloth or flax fabric. Plates from glass whales should be laid by a foil vapor barrier material. Such an approach will help reflect heat inside the room, and steam isolation will reduce moisture evaporation, which, as is known, steals heat.

It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses from the profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the water moisture to evaporate completely and will cause rotting wood. For the same reasons, it is not necessary to isolate the walls with rubberoid, polyethylene film or pergamine. It is better to use vapor-permeable membrane material.

Inside, it is also desirable to separate the profiled bar, as it will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be performed from lining, organic or drywall. Remember that insulation should resemble a puff pie. Each layer should be protected from heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you are planning to spend time in the house only in summer, it can not be inspired.

Roof for home made of profiled timber

It is possible to use ondulin, professional flooring, rubberoid, metal tile to cover the roof. Remember that insulation should be started from the last or attic floor, and then move to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to establish ceiling beams, rafters and a crate. When the walls are lined up, ceiling lags should be put, which should perform for 50 centimeters to perform for the wall base. Lagges are made of timber with a cross section of 150 per 100 millimeters. They must be put on the edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

After that, you should collect a rafter system of boards with a cross-section of 50 to 150 millimeters. This design is a skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with the help of racks, riglels and splines. The rafters should be mounted in a step of no more than one centimeter. When the frame will be ready, you can start displaying fronts, which can be made from siding or bar with a cross section of 150 to 150 millimeters. At the last stage, the cutting should be jaced the crate with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters.

It is worth noting that the shap shave should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent condensate accumulation, it is necessary to make steam insulation using the waterproofing layer. If you used slate as covering the roof, and the attic is blown away, you can refuse to build a house from a profiled timber from waterproofing.

When choosing a material for the coating, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer's tips, since for a different type of coatings, they can differ significantly. When installing it is very important to stick to the specified fasteners. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof can break. If you are strictly observed the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.

Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. For this you do not need to own special skills, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this work. Collect the house will work out as a designer with whom you were played in childhood. For this, special fasteners are provided on the edges of the material. You will need another durable foundation and reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from the profiled bar!

One of the most interesting, popular and widely used materials today for the construction of private houses and cottages is a bar. The construction of a residential building from a bar requires much more modest financial investments and temporary costs than building a house of more familiar materials. At the same time, in the case of a bar, you can perform all construction measures with your own hands.


Before starting any work, you need to make a plan of the future at home. In the absence of design skills, instruct the performance of this work of some third-party organization or pick up suitable drawings in open sources.

Before proceeding with the design, you need to establish the optimal dimensions of the future structure. When choosing optimal dimensions, focus, first of all, on the available area, as well as on their personal needs.

If you have a small family and a little free square, you can give preference to a small brusade house with dimensions of 3x4 m. Provided for competent arrangement even in such a small structure there will be enough useful space. The deficiency of the square can be compensated for by the terrace or attic room.

If there are no special problems with the place, but I still don't want to build a huge building, build a house with dimensions of 5x4 m.

The standard dimensions of summer and country houses are indicators at 6x6 m, 6x8 m, etc. Such a house can already be without any concerns to do two-story.

Otherwise, focus on the conditions specifically your situation. The more your family, the bigger area should have a house. In most cases, everything is limited exclusively by the dimensions of the site and the available budget.

Buy the timber, whose cross section matches the size of the future at home. The thicker it is a bar, the less money you have to spend on thermal insulation material and noise insulation.

Usually, the Bar 200x200 mm is used to build bearing walls. For the construction of a small house in the region with a mild climate, you can use the material with a cross section of 150x150 mm or even 100x100 mm.

In the process of assembling the walls between the rows, it is necessary to make the seal of flax or jute. Such a seal allows you to get rid of all the slots and additionally insulate the walls.

Before starting construction work, be sure to explore the soil properties on your site. It is quite difficult to cope with such work yourself - it is better to immediately contact a specialist. Additionally, it is necessary to know the level of underground water.

Pick the length of the bar in accordance with the size of the house. The standard length of the elements is 600 cm. If the walls of your future house will have a big length, try to find a company that can make a timber on your size. This will require additional financial investments, but the whole bar in all indicators exceeds the prefabricated elements.

The timber needs a mandatory finishing treatment of water-repellent M composition. Without such an impregnation, the material will very soon be covered with mold and rot, and as a result completely collapses.

If it is necessary, the insulation of the finished house is thermally insulated, the materials are best placed from the inside. For insulation, mineral wool insulators are excellent with a mandatory laying of waterproofing material between thermal insulation and walls.

The external trim of the brusade house is better not to do - such a finish will hide the whole aesthetic beauty of the building material.

Pre-calculate the desired amount of materials in order to avoid problems with the implementation of an excess bar or a bidding of missing elements in the future.

First step. Determine the height of the house and calculate the perimeter of the structure of the structure. Take the height of the ceilings, taking into account the thickness of the ceiling and floor. Calculate the area of \u200b\u200binternal and external walls, taking into account the thickness of the cross section of the bar.

The second step. Calculate the total number of bars. To do this, you need to divide the height of the wall of the house to the height of one element. So you will learn how much BRUSEV is needed to build each wall. Length count with a benchmark for the length of the walls. Agudum the number of bars needed to build all the walls of the house.

Third step. Add to the calculated value of 5-15% of the marriage of marriage or unforeseen damage in the construction process.

Initially, the walls of your home will have a height, slightly exceeding the project indicator. Such an increase will occur due to the use of insulation laying between the crowns. Over time, wood will give a shrinkage, and the height of the walls will recover to the project.

Handbook

Purchase the desired amount of the finished timber and proceed to construction. Start with the preparation of the site and arrangement of the foundation.

Foundation

First step. Remove garbage from the construction site and all interfering objects. Seam the pad with the pegs driven into the ground and stretched rope between them.

The second step. Drop the trench to arrange the foundation. Brusade houses are traditionally built on ribbon foundations depth to 80-100 cm. Pick down the specific depth with the conditions specifically of your situation.

Third step. Put the bottom of the trench layer of sand and rubble. Thoroughly confuse. For a better rambling, we swipe with water.

Fourth step. Fasten formwork on the walls of the trench.

Fifth step. Place the reinforcement grid on top of the backfill.

Sixth step. Fill the trench concrete. Leave the foundation until a complete durability (3-5 weeks).

In warm weather, the foundation will need to watered within the first few days after the fill so that it does not crack. Formwork is better to leave the foundation completely. If necessary, it can be dismantled before, but not less than 10 days after the last moistening of the base.

First Crown

First step. Mix the frozen foundation to be molten bitumen and put a loyaloid layer for waterproofing on it.

The second step. Start laying the first crown. Prerequish all the wooden elements of the antiseptic. Traditionally, the first row of timber fit according to the "In Poltera" method. To perform such a compound, one bar need to sprinkle the lower part, the other - the upper one.

Third step. Lay out the lower crown. Customize the bars as carefully as possible.

At the same stage, the wooden braided. With these elements, you will connect the rows of timber. It is impossible to make it from the wood of the same breed that was used for the manufacture of the main building elements. Holes for copper do in advance. The optimal step between the fasteners is 1.2-1.5 m.

Form the first row of walls and proceed to further work.

Walls

Continue to lay out the walls with smooth horizontal rows. Surfaces perform directly to the lower crown according to the "Lastochka Tail" method. Place the floor beams with a step no more than 40 cm, otherwise the floor will fade.

The walls are laid out at an extremely simple principle: you put the bars, connect them between themselves in the corners according to the "on the indigenous spike" method, connect the upper row with the underlying number with the help of aging. Again, drive around one third of the depth of the BROUSE of the lower row, i.e. With the help of one brake, 2-3 rows can be connected immediately. Between the rows, be sure to lay the insulation. You can use jute or moss.

Each row check the construction level. Use a sledgehammer to align the rows.

Lay out the walls of the house of the desired height along the same scheme. All rows, laid above the lower crown, are equipped with the same principle.

Two upper crowns do not need to fix. You will remove them before the start of the roof improvement and install the ceiling beams.

Start the roof arrangement. If you are planning to make a residential attic room, for ceiling beams, use a timber with dimensions of 15x20 cm. The beams themselves fix in order of about 1-1.1 m.

Start the construction of a roofing frame frame. The framework of the frame includes the following elements:


Install Mauerlat, rafters and other listed items. At the rafters, attach the shell boards. For the crate, use the boards of the width of about 150 mm and a thickness of 15-20 mm. The greatest reliability is characterized by a solid doome. Otherwise, focus on the features of your situation, taking into account the angle of inclination of the skate, the type and weight of the finish coating, etc.

At the end, it will remain to lay the finishing roofing coating with a pre-device of steam, heat and moisture insulating x layers.

After that, if necessary, insulate the house and perform finishing finishing works. Laying communications, installation of doors and window designs, lighting, furnishings and other points - all this remains at your discretion.

In the case of a chamber of chamber drying, it is possible to start almost immediately after the construction work is completed. When using another material, you will have to wait until the wood gives shrinkage. This requires at least 6 months.

The brusade house, built in accordance with all the construction regulations and recommendations, will regularly serve you for many decades. Follow the instructions, and already very soon you can enjoy comfortable accommodation in a reliable house built with your own hands.

Good job!

Video - Brusade house do it yourself

According to the technology of assembling walls of the house from the profiled bar, it is necessary to pay more attention to the masonry of the first crown. To create a house from a bar, if the temperature in winter to -30 degrees, its thickness must be at least 15 cm.

The first bar is installed in terms of the level, it will avoid the skew of the building. The first bar is best to take 5 cm thicker than those that will be used for the construction of the house.

At the next stage located interbruse insulation And on top of it mounted the second element.

Brous connections

To connect logs to each other, they are usually used to be brazen, under which the holes make.

Main types of connections:

  1. angular compounds;
  2. grief joint;
  3. facial longitudinal nodes.

As a heater, it is best to use Lengut, this material in its composition has half of the flax and half of the jute.

To perform work, you will need such tools:

  • roulette;
  • a hammer;
  • cord;
  • building level;
  • chainsaw.

Construction and bonding corners

Options Connection of angles without a residue:

  1. in the joke;
  2. "Holding";
  3. with a native spike;
  4. on the swords.

With the rest

  • mount when laying in the angle "with the residue";
  • single-term grooves;
  • bilateral lock;
  • quadrilateral castle.

There are several options for the construction of the corners:

  1. with the help of a keywhich in the bars make special grooves;
  2. using a type of type schip-groove, in this element, they make spikes, and in another groove;
  3. with help metal brackets, in this case, the bars are connected in bulk;
  4. way crossing the BreneThe half of the thickness is cut in each of them, and they are connected to each other.
Often the length of the house is more than the length of the Bursa, so it must be lengthened. In this case, you need to properly conduct a connection that is being drawn, that is suts shift relative to each otherAs when creating brick masonry. The length of the product is connected to the Poledev and fixed with the help of napillates.

In the locations of windows and doors, only one-piece material is used, it is clogged by 2 bells. You can cut the opening in the finished logging, they make it using chainsaws, but first you need to mark up.

Heat process

For the construction of a house, a base of 15-20 cm is usually used, but if you plan to live in it constantly, the walls must be additionally insulated. This can be done both outside and inside the building. Outside, you most often use siding or block mobile, and inside the lining or plasterboard.

Main insulation for outdoor walls:

  • Mineral wool and its analogues;
  • Windproof plates of isoplat;
  • Styrofoam;
  • Polyethylene foamed;
  • Extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS);
  • Sprayed polyurethane foam;
  • Penoplex.

First, the wall markup is marked Taking into account the size of the insulation, so that it fits tightly between the crate. After that, the suspensions are fixed by self-pressing, which mounted metal profiles or wooden bars.

The insulation is settled between the cage, usually plates of mineral wool, which are fixed to the wall with a dowel-fungi, you can instead of watts instead the penplexBut it has a number of shortcomings (steamproof, fuel), the advantages can be attributed to high sound and thermal insulation, low price.

At the next stage, a waterproofing layer is mounted to protect the insulation, while its foil side must be turned outward, and all the seams are perfectly squeezed with scotch. Now it remains to close the facade of siding or block mobile.

How to align the wall in the house if she arched

Sometimes there is such a problem as deformation, it can happen for several reasons:

  • If you brought a dry bar and its final drying is already on the wall.
  • If the installation technology is violated, when the insulation and moisture is incorrectly laid between the logs.

If you notice the curvature of the wall in time, then this can be corrected. In those places where the defignments appeared, as well as near the window and doorways, impose a tire from a channel or the same bar and is installed vertically over the entire height of the wall on both sides of the building.


Tire mount
It is carried out at least three points, for this use metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm and wide washers. It is necessary to hold nuts well, but you should not expect an instant result.

It may be needed to several months until the tire and external weather factors are not given a normal form.

If with the help of tires it did not work out completely align the walls, then you can give the house with an attractive view, you can finish its facade.

If you decide to independently build a house from a bar, then to obtain a qualitative result, the following recommendations of specialists must be observed:

  1. Special attention is paid to the choice of material, pine is most often used from all coniferous rocks;
  2. It is better to use wood harvested in winter, if it was prepared in the summer, then the first year in the house is better not to coat, and in the second year it is necessary to maintain the temperature in the range of 16-18 degrees.
  3. Shrinkage occurs for three years, at that time minor cracks can appear on the walls, which is quite normal, after that, the surface changes are stopped.
  4. When creating a window or doorway, they need to do a little more than it is necessary, otherwise, during the shrinkage of the house, the frame crushes, the gap is filled with a soft insulation.
  5. To eliminate lateral displacement, the bars between themselves are connected by napillates.
  6. It is impossible to connect the bars nails, because when they are drying, the tree hangs on nails, and large gaps are obtained.

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    Houses from the profiled bar are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. There was a lot of time, and the benefits of wooden houses are only added. Nowadays, such houses are built pretty quickly, because they are going like a children's constructor. This also contributes to the presence of special fastenings and availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled timber independently.

    Features profiled bar

    The profiled bar is a building material that is mined from coniferous trees, for example, pines, cedar, ate, larch. If you carefully look at the material, then notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the external one has semi-shaped, or it can also be smooth. On the sides there are special grooves and spikes that allow the timing quickly and efficiently. Ecology is considered the main advantage of the profiled bar, since it is done without the use of glue.

    The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments bribe many people. As mentioned above, the profiled bar is quite easy and quickly going, which is a good news for lovers of independent construction. But do not forget that the profiled bar is a tree on which the pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may occur there. Therefore, it is necessary to always handle wood with special protective compositions.

    The profiled bar practically does not have cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not suffer moisture. Therefore, it should be closely following the roof and not tighten with its repair. If your home is periodically exposed to cold, additional insulation should be made.

    Start building a house from a bar

    It is very important to make a project of the house from the profiled bar. When you make a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, as it will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a project of the future home yourself, or you can contact the construction company. Before you begin to prepare for construction, it should be understood that the best time for construction is winter.

    If you plan to independently engage in wood workpiece, it is better to do in the cold season and to dry for a long time at home. In this case, the bar will sit evenly and calmly. But you should not fall in extremes - in severe frosts it is better to abandon such work, since the tree can become very fragile.

    With an independent workpiece, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to cut the logs evenly and process them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase the ready-made material that will be cut under your requests. Also there will be carved the grooves, and you will just lay out the house from the profiled bar with your own hands, like a constructor.

    Construction of the foundation for the house

    Before you decide with the necessary type of foundation, study the geological conditions. To do this, find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, look at the design of the foundation of the already built houses in this area. Ribbon foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or slag blocks. The process of building such foundations is quite simple, but is distinguished by a large consumption of material and labor intensity.

    For wooden buildings from a bar, a columnary, pile or finely opened ribbon foundation is perfect. Let's look at the constructing scheme of a finely blurred belt basement. It all starts with markup. In this process, it is very important to adhere to accuracy. External and internal corners of the building tick the spicy. After that, you need to combine their cord for giving volume. So you will understand how the foundation should look like.

    After that, you can start digging the pit, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it's not worth doing too small depth either, because we are building a house from the profiled bar and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with their rampant deeds. It will be enough for two bayonet shovels. At the same time, you should not retreat from initial markup for more than 20 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to put a rubble pillow. The bottom of the trench within the framework of this procedure is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) in 10 centimeters and a layer of rubble of the same thickness.

    You can make a formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formworks are made of wood, in which there are no cracks and seams. When ordering it is better to choose a steel or plastic formwork. You must set the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase the strength, it makes sense to use fittings - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement should be at least 1 centimeter.

    It is advisable to use the frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they cannot be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The bars must freely fit into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin to the concrete fill. If you use a wooden formwork, moisten it even so that the tree does not absorb moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after drying the solution.

    For insulation, it is possible to use plates of extruded polystyrene foam of 5 centimeters, and on the corners of the foundation - by 8. When the base of the foundation of the house from the profiled timber will be osselane, crushed stone falls on the place of formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The top of the foundation can be isolated by taking advantage of the rubberoid. Then it is necessary to make an inverse fall asleep for which you can use a previously seized soil.

    Installation of base and floor

    The construction of any house begins with the creation of a series that is placed on the treated and aligned waterproofing foundation. It should be noted that for outer walls it is necessary to use a ram with a cross section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for sex and inner walls - 100 per 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be processed by an antiseptic, for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the lags of the floor, which are desirable to lay on the edge.

    Lags can be installed on the foundation of the house and fasten on the chub walls, as shown on the video about houses from the profiled bar. They must be put in the room and leave on there for several days to get used to temperature. Two lags should be positioned on opposite walls and pull the capro-thread between them, every and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guideline on which other lags can be made. Between the lags, gaps and emptiness will be formed, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, foam, isolon, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.

    If you lay lags from boards with a thickness of 30 - 40 centimeters, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. With a thin plywood or wood wedges, you can adjust the height of the lag. You can wedges to strengthen using self-tapping screws or long nails. Lags are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can go to the installation and strengthening boards.

    From the walls, it is necessary to retreat one and a half centimeter and strengthen the first row of boards on the stretched line. For screws should drill holes. It is necessary to put the board on each lag and strengthen it. If the slots will remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinth or brackets that should be connected to the board and grind up nails. The draft floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. For it, boards with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters are suitable.

    The floor can fit with mixing or without offset, judging by the photo of houses from the profiled timber. First you must put the first layer and make it laying the wooden flooring. Remember the waterproofing, which falls on the bottom of the future floor. For these purposes, a foam or dense polyethylene can be used. At the last stage, the floor should be fastened from any material. To do this, the tipped board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.

    Construction of walls of profiled timber

    To build the walls of the brusade house, it is necessary to post alternate ranks from the bar. Each subsequent row is bonded with a heater (pins for a vertical connection), which does not allow the bruus to shift or twisted. Begroes can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house was built. It is known that braided from metal are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden, and the cost of the house from the profiled timber in this case will increase.

    How are made brazen? This occurs according to the method of brickwork, through two or three rows through one. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which is equal to 3 - 4 centimeters. In these holes and will easily be inserted. The distance between the brackets should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay the seal for insulation. Where the outer walls are connected, it is desirable to apply the "Warm Corner" method.

    In one bar, it is necessary to cut the protrusion of the required size, and in the other - cut out the groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can alternate grooves and spikes. This will strongly strengthen the structure, and the angles will not be bludging. If you build a house at one and a half years, the second walls must be raised approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions should be included in the capital walls of the floor. For them, it is possible to use a timber with a cross section of 100 to 150 millimeters. Installation of partitions is made only after creating a log.

    If the size of the house is large than 6 by 6 meters, one partition should be on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of the house from the profiled bar, the inner walls can be made frame. To do this, it is necessary to create a frame of bars with a cross section of 50 to 50, to strip it with a clapboard or other material. In order for the wooden house to be fire resistant, all its details must be treated with antipiren. You can apply it to walls using a sprayer or painting brush.

    And the last moment, which is worth understanding when the walls are built: pay due attention to creating window openings. In the installation places, it is necessary to cut the technological openings through which the air will move during the material drying. When the house is finally running out, you can install windows. Window blocks for the structure of the profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.

    Warming and finishing at home

    If the thermal insulation of the wooden house will be high-quality, you can reduce the cost of its heating. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The outer finish of the house significantly increases thermal insulation, due to the decrease in the humidity of the bar. She isolates it from various atmospheric precipitation. The most popular types of finishes are lining and siding, but siding is better not to use for a wooden house.

    You can use mineral wool, plates from glass gambles, passcloth or flax fabric. Plates from glass whales should be laid by a foil vapor barrier material. Such an approach will help reflect heat inside the room, and steam isolation will reduce moisture evaporation, which, as is known, steals heat.

    It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses from the profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the water moisture to evaporate completely and will cause rotting wood. For the same reasons, it is not necessary to isolate the walls with rubberoid, polyethylene film or pergamine. It is better to use vapor-permeable membrane material.

    Inside, it is also desirable to separate the profiled bar, as it will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be performed from lining, organic or drywall. Remember that insulation should resemble a puff pie. Each layer should be protected from heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you are planning to spend time in the house only in summer, it can not be inspired.

    Roof for home made of profiled timber

    It is possible to use ondulin, professional flooring, rubberoid, metal tile to cover the roof. Remember that insulation should be started from the last or attic floor, and then move to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to establish ceiling beams, rafters and a crate. When the walls are lined up, ceiling lags should be put, which should perform for 50 centimeters to perform for the wall base. Lagges are made of timber with a cross section of 150 per 100 millimeters. They must be put on the edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

    After that, you should collect a rafter system of boards with a cross-section of 50 to 150 millimeters. This design is a skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with the help of racks, riglels and splines. The rafters should be mounted in a step of no more than one centimeter. When the frame will be ready, you can start displaying fronts, which can be made from siding or bar with a cross section of 150 to 150 millimeters. At the last stage, the cutting should be jaced the crate with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters.

    It is worth noting that the shap shave should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent condensate accumulation, it is necessary to make steam insulation using the waterproofing layer. If you used slate as covering the roof, and the attic is blown away, you can refuse to build a house from a profiled timber from waterproofing.

    When choosing a material for the coating, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer's tips, since for a different type of coatings, they can differ significantly. When installing it is very important to stick to the specified fasteners. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof can break. If you are strictly observed the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.

    Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. For this you do not need to own special skills, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this work. Collect the house will work out as a designer with whom you were played in childhood. For this, special fasteners are provided on the edges of the material. You will need another durable foundation and reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from the profiled bar!