To manufacture a laser engraver or CNC (numerical control) machine tool, we need:

DVD-ROM or CD-ROM
- Plywood with a thickness of 10 mm (you can use 6 mm)
- Self-tapping screws for wood 2.5 x 25 mm, 2.5 x 10 mm
- Arduino Uno (compatible boards can be used)
- Motor driver L9110S 2 pcs.
- Laser 1000mW 405nm Blueviolet
- Analog joystick
- Button
- 5V power supply (I will use an old but working computer power supply)
- Transistor TIP120 or TIP122
- Resistor 2.2 kOhm, 0.25 W
- Connecting wires
- Electric jigsaw
- Drill
- Drills for wood 2mm, 3mm, 4mm
- Screw 4 mm x20 mm
- Nuts and washers 4 mm
- Soldering iron
- Solder, rosin

Step 1 We disassemble the drives.
Any CD or DVD drive is suitable for the engraver. It is necessary to disassemble it and take out the internal mechanism, they come in different sizes:

It is necessary to remove all optics and the board located on the mechanism:

You need to glue a table to one of the mechanisms. You can make a table from the same plywood by cutting a square with a side of 80 mm. Or cut the same square out of the CD / DVD-ROM case. Then the part that you plan to engrave can be pressed with a magnet. Cutting out the square, glue it:

To the second mechanism, you need to glue a plate to which the laser will subsequently be attached. There are a lot of manufacturing options and depends on what you have at hand. I used a plastic model plate. In my opinion, this is the most convenient option... I ended up with the following:

Step 2 Manufacturing the case.
To make the body of our engraver, we will use 10 mm plywood. If it is not there, you can take plywood with a smaller thickness, for example 6 mm, or replace the plywood with plastic. It is necessary to print the following photos and use these templates to cut out one lower part, one upper and two side ones. In the places marked with a circle, make holes for self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3 mm.

After cutting, you should get the following:

At the top and lower parts you need to make 4 mm holes for the fastening of your drive parts. I cannot immediately mark these holes, because they are different:

When assembling, it is necessary to use wood screws 2.5 x 25 mm. In places where self-tapping screws are screwed in, holes must be pre-drilled with a 2 mm drill. Otherwise, the plywood may crack. If you intend to assemble the body from plastic, it is necessary to provide for the connection of parts metal corners and use screws with a diameter of 3 mm. To give an aesthetic look to our engraver, it is worth sanding all the details with fine emery, if desired, you can paint. I like black, I painted all the parts black with spray paint.

Step 3 Prepare the power supply.
To power the engraver, you need a 5 volt power supply with a current strength of at least 1.5 amperes. I will be using an old computer power supply. We cut off all the pads. To start the power supply, you must short-circuit the green (PC_ON) and black (GND) wires. You can put a switch between these wires for convenience, or you can simply twist them together and use the power supply switch, if there is one.

To connect the load, we output the red (+5), yellow (+12) and black (GND) wires. Purple (attendants +5) can give a maximum of 2 amps or less, depending on the power supply. There is voltage on it even with open green and black wires.

For convenience, we glue the engraver onto the double-sided tape to the power supply.

Step 4 Joystick for manual control.
To set the initial engraving position, we will use an analog joystick and a button. We place everything on circuit board and bring out the wires for connecting to the Arduino. We fasten to the body:

We connect according to the following scheme:

Out X - pin A4 Arduino Out Y - pin A5 Arduino Out Sw - pin 3 Arduino Vcc - +5 Power supply Gnd - Gnd Arduino

Step 5 Place the electrician.
We will place all the electrics behind our engraver. We fasten the Arduino Uno and the motor driver with 2.5 x 10 mm self-tapping screws. We connect as follows:

We connect the wires from the stepper motor along the X axis (table) to the outputs of the L9110S motor driver. Further like this:
B-IA - pin 7 B-IB - pin 6 A-IA - pin 5 A-IB - pin 4 Vcc - +5 from power supply GND - GND

The wires from the stepper motor along the Y axis (laser) are connected to the outputs of the L9110S motor driver. Further like this:
B-IA - pin 12 B-IB - pin 11 A-IA - pin 10 A-IB - pin 9 Vcc - +5 from power supply GND - GND

If at the first start the motors will hum but not move, it is worth interchanging the screwed wires from the motors.

Don't forget to connect:
+5 from Arduino - +5 power supply GND Arduino - GND Power supply

Step 6 Laser installation.
The internet is full of diagrams and instructions for making a laser diode laser from a DVD-Rom writer. This process is long and complex. So I bought a ready-made laser with a driver and a heatsink. This greatly simplifies the manufacturing process of a laser engraver. The laser consumes up to 500 mA, so it cannot be connected directly to the Arduino. We will connect the laser through a TIP120 or TIP122 transistor.

The 2.2 kOm resistor must be plugged into the gap between the Base of the transistor and pin 2 of the Arduino.

Base - R 2.2 kOm - pin 2 Arduino Collector - GND Laser (black wire) Emitter - GND (Power supply common) +5 laser (red wire) - +5 power supply

There are not many connections here, so we solder everything by weight, isolate and screw the transistor to the back of the case:

To firmly fix the laser, you need to cut another plate out of the same plastic as the plate glued to the Y-axis. We fasten the laser cooling radiator to it with the screws supplied with the laser:

Insert the laser inside the radiator and fix it with screws, also included in the kit for the laser:

And we screw this whole structure onto our engraver:

Step 7 Arduino IDE.
You should download and install the Arduino IDE. The best way to do this is from an official project.

The latest version at the time of writing ARDUINO is 1.8.5. No additional libraries are required. You should connect the Arduino Uno to your computer and upload the following sketch into it:

After filling in the sketch, you should check that the engraver is working as it should.

Attention! The laser is not a toy! A laser beam, even not focused, even reflected, damages the retina when it hits the eyes. I highly recommend purchasing safety goggles! And all work on checking and setting is carried out only in protective glasses. Also, one should not look without glasses at the work of the laser during the engraving process.

We turn on the power. When changing the position of the joystick forward - backward, the table should move, left to right - move the Y axis, that is, the laser. When the button is pressed, the laser should turn on.

Next, you need to adjust the focus of the laser. We put on safety glasses! We put a small sheet of paper on the table and press the button. By changing the position of the lens (turn the lens), we find the position at which the laser point on the sheet is minimal.

Step 8 Prepare Processing.
To transfer the image to the engraver, we will use the Processing programming environment. Must be downloaded from the official

There is no limit for the imagination of modern craftsmen. They are able not only to create a CNC machine from cd-rom, but also to manufacture a laser module, which can then be used in a programmable engraver. Experiments are more difficult for them. Some have already managed to make a 3D printer using a CNC machine as a basis, and then install a print head. If you wish, you can put into practice the most fantastic ideas.

Second life to old drives

Many are interested in the secondary use of equipment components with the status of obsolete. There are already interesting publications on the Internet about where to find a use for old CD or DVD drives.

One of the craftsmen made a cnc machine from a dvd-Rom with his own hands, although a CD-ROM is also suitable for control. Everything that is available is used. The machine is designed for the manufacture of printed circuit boards in electronics and milling-engraving of small workpieces. The sequence of work can be formulated as follows:

1. It will take three DVD-ROM drives for accurate positioning to coordinate machine move along three axes. The actuators must be disassembled and the unnecessary elements removed. Only the stepper motor along with the sliding mechanism should remain on the chassis.

IMPORTANT! The chassis of the disassembled drive must be metal, not plastic.

1. Since the DVD motor is bipolar, it is enough to ring both windings with a tester to determine their purpose.
2. Someone doubts whether the power of the motor is enough, did they move the required distance? To reduce the effort of the engine, it is important to determine that the table will be movable, and not of a portal type.
3. The base of the bed is 13.5x17 cm, and the height of the bars for vertical rack machine 24 cm. Although manufacturers' DVD drives may vary in size.
4. Next, you need to take stepper motors to solder the control wires (it does not matter - it will be motor contacts or a cable loop).
5. Since the connection with screws is not acceptable here, wooden rectangles (future platforms), which will move along three axes, must be glued to the moving parts of the engine.
6. The spindle will be an electric motor with two screw clamps. It should be extremely light, otherwise it will be difficult for CD / DVD mechanisms to lift it.

And you can also make a laser engraver

To build a laser module, a programmatic goal is set: it must have easy focusing, a sufficiently rigid structure, and it is manufactured using only available materials.

This is a simple matter, but the performer must have accuracy and accuracy so that the homemade device looks beautiful in his hands and, most importantly, works.

Worth looking at short instruction suggested by another home craftsman.

You will need to stock up on the following components:

• an electric motor from a DVD drive;
• a laser diode and a plastic lens from a dvd drive (up to 300 MW so that it does not melt);
• metal washer with an inner diameter of 5 mm;
• three screws and the same number of small springs from a ballpoint pen.

In such an engraver, there are two movement mechanisms; vertical movement for the laser is not required. Laser LED is used as a cutting or burning tool.

ATTENTION! You need to know the intricacies of the laser. Even occasional reflections can damage your eyesight. Extreme caution is needed.

Since the diameters of the laser diode and the hole in the motor housing are slightly different, the smaller one will have to be enlarged. Conductors soldered to the diode should be insulated with heat shrink tubing.

The diode is pressed into the hole so that a good thermal contact is achieved between them. The top of the laser diode can be covered with a brass sleeve taken from this motor. Three notches are made in the washer for the screws. The lens, inserted into the hole of the washer, is carefully glued to avoid any glue getting on it.

The lens is attached to the body. After making sure that it can move freely along the bolts, the position is fixed. Using the screws, the beam is focused as accurately as possible. Such a dvd drive laser is used in engraving technology.

How can Arduino be used

A small board with its own processor and memory, contacts - Arduino - are used in the design process electronic devices... In a way, this is an electronic constructor that interacts with environment... Through the contacts, you can connect light bulbs, sensors, motors, routers, magnetic locks to doors to the board - everything that is powered by electricity.

It took the author 4 months to assemble such an engraver; its power is 2 watts. This is not too much, but it allows for engraving on wood and plastic. It can also cut cork wood. The article contains all required material to create an engraver, including STL files for printing structural units, as well as electronic circuits for connecting motors, lasers, and so on.

Video of the engraver's work:

Materials and tools:

Access to a 3D printer;
- rods from of stainless steel 5/16";
- bronze bushings (for sleeve bearings);
- diode M140 for 2 W;
- heatsink and coolers for creating diode cooling;
- stepper motors, pulleys, toothed belts;
- Super glue;
- wooden beams;
- plywood;
- bolts with nuts;
- acrylic (for creating inserts);
- G-2 lens and driver;
- thermal paste;
- protective glasses;
- Arduino UNO controller;
- drill, cutting tool, self-tapping screws, etc.

The process of making an engraver:

Step one. Create the Y axis
The first step in Autodesk Inventor is to design the wireframe for the printer. Then you can start printing the elements of the Y axis and assembling it. The first part, which is printed on a 3D printer, is needed in order to install stepper motor on the Y-axis, connect the steel shafts and slide along one of the X-axis shafts.

After the part is printed, two bronze bushings must be installed in it, they are used as slide bearings. To reduce friction, the bushings need to be lubricated. This is a great solution for such projects as it is cheap.

As for the guides, they are made of stainless steel rods with a diameter of 5/16 ". The stainless steel has a low coefficient of friction with bronze, so it is excellent for sleeve bearings.

A laser is also installed on the Y-axis, it has a metal case and gets quite hot. To reduce the risk of overheating, you need to install aluminum radiator and coolers for cooling. The author used old elements from the robot controller.

Among other things, in the block for laser 1 "X1" you need to make a hole 31/64 "and add a bolt to the side edge. The block is connected to another part, which is also printed on a 3D printer, it will move along the Y axis. toothed belt.

After assembling the laser module, it is mounted on the Y-axis. Stepper motors, pulleys and timing belts are also installed at this stage.

Step two. Create the X axis

Wood was used to create the base of the engraver. The most important thing in this case is that the two X-axes are clearly parallel, otherwise the device will wedge. A separate motor is used to move along the X coordinate, as well as a drive belt in the center of the Y axis. Thanks to this design, the system is simple and works great.

For fastening crossbeam which connects the belt to the Y-axis, you can use superglue. But it is best to print special brackets for these purposes on a 3D printer.

Step three. We connect and check electronics
In a homemade product, a diode such as a diode M140 is used, you can buy a more powerful one, but the price will be higher. To focus the beam, you need a lens and a regulated power supply. The lens is mounted on the laser using thermal paste. Working with lasers should be done exclusively with protective goggles.

To test how the electronics work, the author turned it on outside the machine. A computer cooler is used to cool the electronics. The system works on the Arduino Uno controller, which is connected to the grbl. To enable the signal to be transmitted online, the Universal Gcode Sender is used. To convert vector images to G-code, you can use Inkscape with installed plugin gcodetools. To control the laser, a contact is used that controls the operation of the spindle. This is one of the most simple examples using gcodetools.

Step four. Engraver body
The side edges are made of plywood. Since the stepper motor extends slightly outside the housing during operation, a rectangular hole must be made in the back face. In addition, you need to remember to make holes for cooling, power connections, and a USB port. The edges of the top and front of the case are also made of plywood, and the walls of acrylic are installed in the central part. Above all the elements that are installed in the lower part of the box, an additional wooden platform is attached. It is the basis for the material with which the laser works.

Acrylic is used for the manufacture of the walls orange as it perfectly absorbs laser beams. It is important to remember that even the reflected laser beam can seriously damage the eye. That, in fact, is all, the laser is ready. You can start testing.

Of course, complex images are not very high quality, but simple engravers can easily burn out simple ones. It can also be used to cut cork without any problems.

In this article, we will look at how to assemble a laser engraver with your own hands. Of course, you can buy it on the Chinese market, but this way we will save money and if something happens we can repair such a device.

If you want to work with metals, then the laser must be more than 80 watts, but we will collect a weaker version - 40 watts.

Various laser tubes of this power are commercially available, ranging in length from 70 to 160 centimeters.

We also need a 40 Watt CO2 laser tube power supply.

Green control board.

Laser engraving lenses and O-rings.

Stepper motors in X and Y axis

Infrared breaker board.

Pressed aluminum profile size 30x30 mm.

The right amount of aluminum profile.

900 mm х 4 pcs. = 3600 mm.

730 mm х 4 pcs = 2920 mm.

610 mm х 2 pcs = 1220 mm.

500 mm х 8 pcs = 4000 mm.

470 mm х 2 pcs = 940 mm.

200 mm х 2 pcs = 400 mm.

170 mm х 2 pcs = 340 mm.

120 mm х 2 pcs = 240 mm.

90 mm х 2 pcs = 180 mm.

As a result, we will need 13,840 mm aluminum profiles for our laser machine.

Also, do not forget to buy the bolts for fastening.

In order for our engraving machine to move, wheels will be needed in the amount of 4 pieces, measuring 20mm x 20mm x 640mm.

For X axis 640 mm rail.

This is how the laser head will move along the Y axis.

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DIY laser engraver: materials, assembly, software installation

Many of those home craftsmen who, in their workshop, are engaged in the manufacture and decorative design products made of wood and other materials, probably thought about how to make a laser engraver with your own hands. The presence of such equipment, the serial models of which are quite expensive, allows not only to apply the most complex patterns to the surface of the workpiece with high accuracy and detail, but also to carry out laser cutting of various materials.

Homemade laser machine in the process of engraving on wood

A homemade laser engraver, which will cost significantly less than a production model, can be made even if you do not have deep knowledge of electronics and mechanics. The laser engraver of the proposed design is assembled on the Arduino hardware platform and has a power of 3 W, while for industrial models this parameter is at least 400 W. However, even such a low power allows you to use this machine for cutting products from expanded polystyrene, cork sheets, plastic and cardboard, as well as for high-quality laser engraving.

This engraver can handle thin plastic too

Necessary materials

In order to independently make a laser engraver on an Arduino, you will need the following consumables, mechanisms and tools:

• Arduino R3 hardware platform;
• Proto Board equipped with a display;
• stepper motors, which can be electric motors from a printer or from a DVD player;
• laser with a power of 3 W;
• device for laser cooling;
• voltage regulator direct current DC-DC;
• MOSFET transistor;
• electronic boards, with the help of which the motors of the laser engraver are controlled;
• limit switches;
• a case in which you can place all the structural elements of a homemade engraver;
• timing belts and pulleys for their installation;
• ball bearings of various standard sizes;
• four wooden boards (two of them with dimensions of 135x10x2 cm, and the other two - 125x10x2 cm);
• four metal rods of circular cross-section, the diameter of which is 10 mm;
• bolts, nuts and screws;
• lubricant;
• cable ties;
• a computer;
• drills of various diameters;
• a circular saw;
• sandpaper;
• vice;
• standard set of locksmith tools.

The greatest investment will be required by the electronic part of the machine

Electrical part of a homemade laser engraver

The main element of the electrical circuit of the presented device is a laser emitter, the input of which must be supplied with a constant voltage with a value that does not exceed the permissible parameters. If this requirement is not met, the laser may simply burn out. The laser emitter used in the engraving installation of the presented design is designed for a voltage of 5 V and a current not exceeding 2.4 A, therefore the DC-DC regulator must be adjusted for a current of 2 A and a voltage of up to 5 V.

Electrical diagram of the engraver

The MOSFET transistor, which is the most important element of the electrical part of the laser engraver, is necessary in order to turn the laser emitter on and off when receiving a signal from the Arduino controller. The electrical signal generated by the controller is very weak, so only a MOSFET can sense it and then turn on and off the laser power circuit. V electrical diagram of a laser engraver, such a transistor is installed between the positive contact of the laser and the negative DC regulator.

The stepper motors of the laser engraver are connected through one electronic control board, which ensures synchronous operation. Thanks to this connection, the timing belts, driven by several motors, do not sag and maintain a stable tension during their operation, which ensures the quality and accuracy of the processing performed.

It should be borne in mind that the laser diode used in a homemade engraving machine must not overheat.

To do this, it is necessary to ensure its effective cooling. This problem is solved quite simply: a regular computer fan is installed next to the diode. To prevent overheating of the control boards for the operation of stepper motors, they are also placed next to them. computer coolers, since conventional radiators cannot cope with this task.

Photos of the wiring diagram assembly process

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3
Photo-4 Photo-5 Photo-6

Build process

The homemade engraving machine of the proposed design is a shuttle-type device, one of the moving elements of which is responsible for moving along the Y-axis, and the other two, paired, for moving along the X-axis. For the Z-axis, which is also specified in the parameters of such a 3D printer, the depth to which the processed material is burned is taken. The depth of the holes into which the elements of the shuttle mechanism of the laser engraver are installed must be at least 12 mm.

Desktop frame - dimensions and tolerances

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3
Photo-4 Photo-5 Photo-6

Aluminum rods with a diameter of at least 10 mm can act as guiding elements along which the working head of the laser engraving device will move. If it is not possible to find rods made of aluminum, steel rails of the same diameter can be used for these purposes. The need to use rods of just such a diameter is explained by the fact that in this case the working head of the laser engraving device will not sag.

Making a movable carriage

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3

The surface of the rods that will be used as guiding elements for the laser engraving device must be cleaned of factory grease and carefully sanded to perfect smoothness. Then they should be coated with a white lithium-based lubricant that will improve the sliding process.

Installation stepper motors on the body of a homemade engraving device is carried out using brackets made of sheet metal. To make such a bracket, a sheet of metal roughly the width of the engine itself and twice the length of its base is bent at right angles. On the surface of such a bracket, where the base of the electric motor will be located, 6 holes are drilled, 4 of which are needed to fix the engine itself, and the other two are needed to fasten the bracket to the body using ordinary self-tapping screws.

A piece of sheet metal of the appropriate size is also used to install a drive mechanism consisting of two pulleys, a washer and a bolt on the electric motor shaft. To mount such a unit, a U-shaped profile is formed from a metal sheet, in which holes are drilled to attach it to the body of the engraver and to exit the motor shaft. The pulleys, on which toothed belts will be put on, are mounted on the drive motor shaft and placed in the inner part of the U-shaped profile. The toothed belts, which are put on the pulleys, which are supposed to drive the shuttles of the engraving device, are connected to their wooden bases using self-tapping screws.

Installation of stepper motors

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3
Photo-4 Photo-5 Photo-6

Installing the software

Your laser grower, which is supposed to work in automatic mode, will need not only installation, but also setup of special software. The most important element of such support is a program that allows you to create the contours of the desired pattern and convert them to an extension that is understandable for the control elements of the laser engraver. Such a program is freely available, and you can download it to your computer without any problems.

The program downloaded to the computer controlling the engraving device is unpacked from the archive and installed. In addition, you will need a library of contours, as well as a program that will send data on the created drawing or lettering to the Arduino controller. Such a library (as well as the program for transferring data to the controller) can also be found in the public domain. In order for your laser homemade product to work correctly, and the engraving performed with its help to be of high quality, you will need to configure the controller itself for the parameters of the engraving device.

Features of using contours

If you have already figured out the question of how to make a manual laser engraver, then you need to clarify the question of the parameters of the contours that can be applied using such a device. Such contours, the inner part of which is not filled even if the original drawing is painted over, should be transferred to the engraver's controller with files not in pixel (jpeg), but in vector format. This means that the image or inscription applied to the surface of the workpiece with the help of such an engraver will not consist of pixels, but of dots. Such images and inscriptions can be scaled as desired, focusing on the surface area on which they are to be applied.

With the help of a laser engraver, almost any drawing and inscription can be applied to the surface of the workpiece, but for this, their computer models must be converted into vector format. This procedure is not difficult: for this, special programs Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator are used. The file, which has already been converted to vector format, must be converted again so that it can be correctly perceived by the controller of the engraving machine. Inkscape Laserengraver is used for this conversion.

Final setup and preparation for work

Having made a laser engraving machine with your own hands and having downloaded the necessary software into its control computer, do not start working immediately: the equipment needs final adjustment and adjustment. What is this adjustment? First of all, you need to make sure that the maximum displacements of the laser head of the machine along the X and Y axes coincide with the values ​​obtained when converting the vector file. In addition, depending on the thickness of the material from which the workpiece is made, it is necessary to adjust the parameters of the current supplied to the laser head. This should be done in order not to burn through the product on the surface of which you want to engrave.

A very important and responsible process is the precise adjustment (alignment) of the laser head. Alignment is needed in order to adjust the power and resolution of the beam produced by the laser head of your engraver. On expensive serial models of laser engraving machines, adjustment is performed using an additional low-power laser installed in the main working head. However, homemade engravers tend to use inexpensive laser heads, so this method of fine tuning the beam is not suitable for them.

Test your DIY laser engraver with simple drawings first

A sufficiently high-quality alignment of a homemade laser engraver can be done using the LED removed from the laser pointer. The LED wires are connected to a power supply with a voltage of 3 V, and it itself is fixed at the working end of the standard laser. By alternately turning on and adjusting the position of the beams emanating from the test LED and the laser head, they achieve their alignment at one point. The convenience of using the LED from the laser pointer is that the alignment with its help can be performed without the risk of harming both the hands and eyes of the engraving machine operator.

The video shows the process of connecting the engraver to the computer, setting up the software and preparing the machine for work.

Do-it-yourself pleasant things

As an engineering high school student, I was tasked with creating my own project. I decided to design and do it myself laser engraver... What came of it, see for yourself.

With the help of the Inverntor program, I created the design of the engraver, and later all the details, which I later printed on a 3-d printer.

This is my first time using a 3D printer and was surprised at how well it works. I used to think that 3-D printing was useless, but that turned out to be not the case.

The metal bars serve as the y-axis while the entire structure slides along the x-axis. The metal bearings are lubricated with oil to reduce friction.

I made a laser heatsink by hand from aluminum and cooling fins from an old computer. This part contains a laser diode and slides along the y-axis.

I purchased a 2W 440nM laser diode, and I also need a driver and a lens. The total cost was $ 100.

Install the stepper motor and belt to move along the y-axis.

Before fastening, make sure that the carriage slides smoothly along the x and y axes.

In this picture, you can see the stepper motor responsible for moving along the x-axis. For simplicity, I only used 2 motors and 2 belts.

I wasn't sure if a single belt and motor would be enough to move the x-axis, but luckily it was enough.

After connecting the motors to the Arduino controller, I checked the movement along each axis.

I tried engraving the words "Hello World!"

The walls of the engraver are made of white board, the holes were cut with laser cutter... To extract the smoke from the engraver's body, I installed a computer fan.

The scheme is quite formidable. In this picture, from left to right, the Arduino controller, voltage regulator, laser and stepper motor driver, power supply are connected.

This wooden platform covers the electronics and also serves as a support for the material to be engraved on.

All that is left is a protective cover to shield the user from harmful laser radiation.

The hinged lid is made of orange acrylic, which is designed to block out UV light. I have found that acrylic is capable of blocking the blue laser beam.

The finished engraver looks pretty professional.

Laser engraver at work.

Viewing the engraving process through a fan.

Here is the result compared to the original. The engraver works much better with solid colors.

Most successful engraving.

It is possible to cut out details from balsa wood and paper, I think it will be useful when modeling airplanes, ships and the like. The cutting process takes place at lower speeds compared to engraving.

The finished gear. Thank you for the attention!

DIY laser engraver - affordable solution for home workshop

Lasers have long been a part of our everyday life. Guides use light pointers, builders use a beam to set levels. The ability of the laser to heat materials (up to thermal destruction) is used for cutting and decoration.

One of the applications is laser engraving. On various materials, you can get subtle patterns with almost no restrictions on complexity.

Wood surfaces are great for scorching. Especially appreciated are backlit plexiglass engravings.


There is a wide selection of engraving machines for sale, mainly made in China. The equipment is not too expensive, however, buying it just for fun is impractical. It is much more interesting to make a laser engraver with your own hands.

You just need to get a laser with a power of several watts, and create a frame movement system in two coordinate axes.

DIY laser engraving machine

The laser cannon is not the most difficult structural element, and there are options. Depending on the tasks, you can choose a different capacity (respectively, the cost, up to a free purchase). Craftsmen from the Middle Kingdom offer various ready-made designs, sometimes made with high quality.


You can even cut plywood with such a 2W cannon. The ability to focus at the desired distance allows you to control both the engraving width and the penetration depth (for 3D drawings).

The cost of such a device is about 5-6 thousand rubles. If you do not need high power, use a low-power laser from a DVD writer, which can be purchased for a penny on the radio market.

There are quite workable solutions, production will take one day off

There is no need to explain how to remove a laser semiconductor from a drive, if you know how to “do things” with your hands, it is not difficult. The main thing is to choose a durable and comfortable case. In addition, a "combat" laser, albeit low-power, requires cooling. In the case of a DVD drive, a passive radiator is sufficient.

The handle body can be made of two brass pistol sleeves. Used cartridges from "TT" and "PM" will do. They have a slight difference in caliber, and fit well with each other.

We drill out the capsules, and in place of one of them we install a laser diode. The brass liner will serve as an excellent radiator.


It remains to connect the 12 volt power supply, for example, from the USB port of your computer. There will be enough power, the drive in the computer is powered from the same power supply. That's all, do-it-yourself laser engraving at home almost from garbage.


If you need a coordinate machine, you can attach the burner to the finished positioning device.

A laser engraver from a printer with a dried ink head is a great way to bring a broken machine back to life.

Do a little bit of paper feeding (not a problem for flat plywood or metal plate) and you have practically a factory engraver. Software may not be needed - the driver from the printer is used.

With the circuitry, you simply connect the ink supply signal to the laser input and "print" on solid materials.

Homemade laser engraver for working with large areas

Any drawing for assembling the so-called KIT kits from the same Chinese friends is taken as a basis.


Finding an aluminum profile is not a problem; making carriages with wheels is also not a problem. A ready-made laser module is installed on one of them, the other pair of carriages will move the guide truss. The movement is set by stepper motors, the torque is transmitted by means of toothed belts.


It is better to assemble the structure inside a box with active ventilation. Acrid smoke emitted during engraving is harmful to health. For indoor use, an outdoor hood is required.

Important! When using a laser of this power, safety precautions must be observed.

Short-term exposure to human skin causes severe burns.

If you are working with metal plates, the reflected glare of the beam can damage the retina of the eye. The best protection will serve as red plexiglass. This will neutralize the blue laser beam and allow real-time monitoring of the process.


The control circuit is assembled on any programmable controller. The most popular are the Arduino UNO systems sold on the same Chinese electronics sites. The solution is inexpensive, but effective and almost universal.


The most common option is to connect to a personal computer. The design and engraving parameters are created using any standard graphics editor.

Important! Keep in mind that most Arduino-based controllers only work with vector images.

If your picture is raster, you should make a trace.

Having connected and programmed the USB controller, you will be able to output the task for engraving directly from a digital medium (flash drive), having previously created a file on a computer.
Outcome:

The laser head engraving machine is so affordable that it can be purchased not only for commercial use but also for personal use.

Making crafts for children, saving on advertising materials for your own company, design items for the home - this is an incomplete list of the use of the machine.

And a self-made installation will delight you with minimal costs.

DIY laser engraver from DVD drive - video instruction

The purpose of the project: creation of a laser engraver of low power (presumably 5 watts) and from improvised means.

An example of a similar project:

From improvised means it is supposed to use:

- guides from the inkjet printer. Epson R220 printer. Another scanner and another inkjet printer are on the way. So there should be enough motors, guides, harnesses, etc.

- motors and harnesses / belts are also from an inkjet printer.

- metal base and other parts for creating the frame of the engraver (something from computer cases, something from the remains of printers / scanners).

- various radiators for cooling the boards (in stock).

- coolers for cooling / hoods, etc. (in stock).

- netbook with software for transferring images to the machine.

- a power supply unit from an ordinary computer. There is also a cable from the laptop with a 12 volt / 5 ampere power supply. Is the built-in PSU from the printer suitable?

- hamutics, screws, bolts and other small trifles for fasteners.

From purchased parts it is supposed to use:

- brains. Most likely Ardruino UNO with A3967 or TB6560 drivers (some advised me to use the TB6560 board, it’s like there is better software (I don’t know)).

- laser. Perhaps 5 watts for aliexpress or more, if the design allows.

Stage of the project: collection of information and components.

Total hardware you need:

1.2 (3?) Inkjet motors with belts and guides.

2. 3 light-alloy profiles for the X-axis construction.

3.4 profiles for base frame and Y-axis fixing.

4.2 drivers A3967 or TB6560.

5.One Ardruino NANO or UNO board.

6. power supply from a computer or laptop (12v / 5a).

7. 3 cooling heatsinks - 2 per driver, 1 per board.

8. computer synchronization cable.

9. cooled laser (heatsink + cooler).

Need advice on the power of the motors and how to make their work easier. Although if he moves the carriage with a whole set of ink briskly, then why can't he cope (along the X axis) with the laser and its radiator? This is more of a question whether the engines will cope with the Y-axis. Maybe it's better to take the engines from the scanner for Y? And in general, what power should the engines (from and to) be for normal movement along the axes?

Electrical advice is also needed. Do the "brains" I listed feed on 12 volts? Will they have enough power supply from the computer? Where is the power supply for the laser? Yes, there will be a lot of clarifications, for sure. The head post will be added / duplicated as the project progresses.

P.S. please do not write an offtopic like "this will not take off." Does the engraver work on the video? So someone took off.

P.S.S. I will add in the course of the play if I forgot something.

At this rate efficient and very useful advice and critics will have time to come up with another similar printer and scanner, and so there are already boards with other things, if you order them from China, and by Russian post.

Knowledge of electronics will allow you to compose a simple circuit and yourself and more experience in soldering. If I knew everything about the engines, but about which ardruino would be better to install, then I would not even register here, because why would I need advice. Is it logical? There is no experience in ardruino and the like, because until this moment I did not see much sense in them, tk. most of the DIY projects were either quadcopters or dancing robots, which I'm not particularly interested in.

And now in essence:

1. "Not from but for". The essence of the project is exactly the opposite (well, this is so, I explain, for poor readers). Those. in practice, prove that something useful can be assembled from old equipment at hand. So what exactly is OT and FOR!

2. If not ardruino, then what? Can you describe in more detail what to take in terms of filling?

3. Complete sets are different and Nema 17 sounds like “that chick over there, but not that one, but the one on the left”. Parts have their own designations, names, articles. The same Nema 17 is not one position, as I understand it. There is 0.6 ampere, and there is 1.7.

Everything that seemed necessary to me for the engraver, I described above and even asked to supplement the list if I missed something.

O! Invented! If the concept is so difficult to grasp, then you can full list(slats, guides, mute 17th, "brains", harnesses, etc.). But only detailed list. If there is a link to such a topic, then you can also link. Then I will throw out everything that is already available from this list and draw up a general price tag.

P.S. Yes. I forgot to take a picture of the PSU from the computer, but I hope everyone knows what it looks like. And about the size of the treated surface. Well, in theory, A4 would not be bad. I think the scanner sets the size here.

3. And why is TB6560 better than A3967?

Find datasheets for both and compare - they google right away, especially on TB6560DRV2 there is in Russian, although I took these trifles for experiments for children (I myself am a supporter of normal drivers, not cheap ones), the instruction for launching was not needed, because everything important is on the drivers themselves. At least the second ones have an operating current only up to 750mA (a little more peak), and the first ones - up to 3 A, there is a difference in the maximum working power supply.

You did not mention your level of knowledge. With a low level of understanding of electronics, it is not worth taking on this project.

Mentioned and pointed out exactly:

how many amperes should they be in terms of power

Absolutely zero if the power is in amperes. So soon the way in liters will be measured. Although such a parameter as power is NOT a characteristic of stepper motors at all. The level of understanding of electronics is two meters below the baseboard. Another writer, not a reader.

Arduin ftopk. Forever.

It is far from a fact - such as in the first post video "devices" are made on arduinka, especially since for them there is software for it, and ready-made solutions, even here on the forum a similar thing was presented on the arduinka and even breathed, but again it's too lazy to look for aFFFtor - he's a writer. it's easier for him to ask.

Knowledge of electronics will allow you to compose a simple circuit and yourself and more experience in soldering. If I knew everything about the engines, but about which ardruino would be better to install, then I would not even register here, because why would I need advice. Is it logical?

Well, yes - a logical consumer approach for today's young people: I have itched, but here on the forum everyone is obliged to help me, otherwise what it was created for, otherwise all the goats and so on, etc., including "revolution, blah", because I look for laziness, and if I knew, then why would I need a forum, because I myself share knowledge - fig. And in fact:

Why does everyone believe so firmly that rays of light knowledge should emanate from the old-timers, piercing through and through absolutely black heads? Who is looking for - will find. Whoever formulates the question correctly - will receive either an answer or a link to the answer (if it was discussed earlier). And to reproach everyone that “the amateur is beaten” is a situation considered in the immortal work of Ilf and Petrov. And it's not about boredom or the notorious trolling. The point is in everyone who asks. from many, gloating here "trolls" very regularly slip answers that cost MONEY. Read the forum attentively. one shit, and someone understands the irony. So this is also the internal problems of readers. Therefore, there is no need to make a resentment and climb into a strange monastery with your own charter. This is its own atmosphere. Era. Understood - come. No - come in.

For starters, I would recommend reading this. or a more complete series of articles by this author “One step, two step. “, But there are“ many letters ”. Then, after that, questions about shagoviks and their drivers will not be so stupid, but if you understand the article / articles, they will become essentially.

motors and harnesses / belts are also from an inkjet printer.

From what is right here and now there is a printer:

And on the photo, Epson photo R220, which has NOT a stepper on the carriage drive, but a collector motor, which, in conjunction with the encoder tape, works in server mode (the photo of the engine is here), was googled on the fly.

This means that you cannot even identify the type of engine by its appearance. which confirms the qualifications in radio business.

Such an engine is past the checkout. those.:

Those. in practice, prove that something useful can be assembled from old equipment at hand. So what exactly is OT and FOR

in your case, it does NOT work, well, unless the motor from the pump turns out to be a stepper, even less likely is the material pulling engine. It is very old printers with a print speed of no higher than 4 sheets per minute had shagiks (for example, the ancient epson photopaint 800, which was produced in the late 90s - everything is on shagoviks there). And in general, in order to make such projects in the style of "making candy out of shit - I picked up everything from a landfill" you need to have knowledge at the level of a service technician of such equipment, then you know which engines will go, and ready-made modules from boards with drivers of these engines, you can use all that, but NOT with a complete lack of knowledge, which you have already confirmed many times in your posts.

O! Invented! If the concept is so difficult to grasp, then you can have a complete list (reiki, guides, mute 17th, "brains", harnesses, etc.). But only a detailed list. If there is a link to such a topic, then you can also link. Then I will throw out everything that is already available from this list and draw up a general price tag.

Or maybe just in addition to the list, you can also adjust the drawings for the assembly? Or he can immediately make a full detailing and Assembly drawing with a set of firmware? Or send the collected sample to you at once? and then you will do a heroic deed and throw out everything that is not necessary for this from the list you have compiled.

Mdaaa. Super design. Although I was glad that you write correctly, as a rule, topics with such megaprojects are created by figures who make up to five mistakes in a word. So if you understand my epistolary quirks, you have a chance, at least to find and read in enough literature for the real implementation of such a project, but it will take a lot of persistent searches and serious work, and it is possible to answer the right questions on the merits, but not to do everything for you. And about sculpting from shit and sticks, it makes sense to read "this project" and "this", then it will become clear why such an attitude to the projector. And why for such projects a section “The circus has gone here” was introduced.

So, I made an introduction to the project. I recommend that you find here on the forum a topic with a similar in meaning already made project of such an engraver and study, and, for starters, read the above recommended article by Ridiko, so, to start a dialogue. Well and wish you luck.

If I knew everything about the engines, but about which ardruino would be better to install, then I would not even register here, because why would I need advice.

I did not work with arduino, BUT if I needed to get information on this circuitry, I would register on arduino sites. And to read, get advice, you do not need to register.

I watched the photo. thought a lot.

Here's what I came up with:

- The guides are flimsy and short (the working field of the A4 format is not that)

With such details, I would not aim at a laser (well, it will not be interesting), but you can try a 3D printer. pile.

As early as 3-4 months ago. here one comrade reported on his work. also built lasers. if he didn’t lie for sale, he didn’t even spank bad ones. The construct is very simple, Spartan. but functional. So what am I. if I'm not mistaken he also used arduino. Most importantly, no fuss with soldering-soldering. everything is on the slats and clamps. (a little welding-frame).

I don’t know how ethical it will be to roll someone else’s work out for obvious plagiarism in the future, but if I have already posted it for general review. then this option was provided. I'll rummage around right now. if I find it, I'll stick it with my finger (nose).

found. read look. simpler. there is nowhere like.

The same project, moreover - a working one.

Gentlemen, here I am collecting from cnc scanners. everything works, but there is a problem.

there are several stepper motors from the scanner. regular tablet. motor thickness 7-9mm, diameter 35mm.

collecting something like a plotter.
I connect to CNC v3 + A4988 + arduino uno. 12 volts. for cnc v3 12V this is the minimum.

motors get very hot. tried adjusting the current of the A4988 to a minimum. the motors are squeaking, they are still warming up.

what to do? I ask for help.
I did not find the characteristics of the engines. can you tell me? at least approximately.
can these A4988 drivers be used for such engines?
What is the easiest way to solve the problem of engine overheating? otherwise I am sure that after an hour of work they will melt%)

motor thickness 7-9mm, diameter 35mm.

IMHO: bullshit engines. nanorobots only do.

similar (in appearance) like in cheap cassette players were.

Well, honestly. even just to play - too small

the motors are squeaking, they are still warming up.

as long as I remember. for a stepper 80 degrees is still normal. grabbing hand, it seems boiling. but no.

when using the gearbox included in the motor, the simple laser module moves normally. without skipping steps.

probably 5 volts is enough for them. I made this assumption from the fact that some scanners simply work from usb.

I'll try to leave it at work for a couple of hours.

but still, there are ideas to use for other purposes still such 3-5 volt bipolar engines:

How and what to manage. can you directly from arduino? if possible, help with a diagram, for example

Gentlemen, here I am collecting from cnc scanners. everything works, but there is a problem. there are several stepper motors from the scanner. regular tablet. motor thickness 7-9mm, diameter 35mm.

Another project of assembling "supermegadrive" from what is worn in the trash heap. If you really want to know the parameters of the motor, then take and restore its power circuit in the scanner, and then, based on the datasheet of its power driver, calculate the operating current.

Engravers are widely used in various industries production not only for engraving various materials, but also for drilling miniature holes, polishing, grinding, milling. The same operations can be performed with their help at home. If this is required only occasionally, or you just need to save money on buying a tool, then a mini-drill can be made independently from unnecessary equipment, which is often unused in garages or storage rooms. With the help of homemade drills, it will be possible to perform the same operations as with a factory tool of similar power, only you will need to use the appropriate nozzles.

By the peculiarities of their functioning, engravers are divided into milling and laser. In the first, the material is processed with various attachments. In laser models, all the work is done by a laser beam - this is contactless engraving method... Moreover, such a device belongs to the category of high-tech equipment. But a homemade engraver can also be made at home.

To create a laser engraver with your own hands, you will need the following parts, tools and materials:

• stepper motors from dvd drive;
• Arduino computing platform;
• Proto Board with display;
• limit switches for motors;
• laser module (for example, with a power of 3 W);
• constant voltage value adjusting device;
• laser cooling system;
• MOSFET (transistor);
• boards for assembling electric motor control elements;
• frame;
• toothed pulleys and belts for them;
• bearings of various sizes;
• wood boards: 2 pieces measuring 135x10x2 cm and two more - 125x10x2 cm;
• 4 round metal rods with a cross section of 10 mm;
• grease;
• clamps, bolts with washers and nuts;
• vice;
• locksmith tools;
• drill;
• jigsaw or circular saw;
• files or sandpaper;
• computer or laptop.

Stepper motors can be taken not only from DVDs, but also from a printer that is practically not used.

The machine is assembled according to the following algorithm:

• create a base;
• mount guides with movable carriages;
• assemble an electrical circuit;
• install the necessary programs on the computer;
• alignment (tuning) of the laser head;
• check the performance of the machine.

Connection diagram stepper motors taken from an inkjet printer or DVD are shown in the photo below.

The entire sequence of actions that allows you to assemble a laser engraver on an arduino is shown in detail in the video below.

The created CNC engraver will cost much cheaper than any factory-made laser models. It can be used for making seals, for photoresist, for working with wood, plywood, plastic, cardboard, expanded polystyrene and cork sheets. It is also possible to carry out engraving on metal.

Assembling an Electric Engraver with Tripod and Flexible Shaft

An electric engraver is the most common variety of this kind of tools at home. To make a functionally full-fledged device independently, capable of competing with analogs of industrial production, you will need an electric motor that works from alternating current 220 V. Such electric motors can be taken from the following equipment:

• Soviet-style reel-to-reel tape recorders;
• DVD-players;
• washing machines;
• angle grinders;
• electric sewing machines.

The latter option is optimal, because it is possible to adjust the speed in a fairly wide range using the built-in rheostat.

For household use a drill with an engine speed of Idling up to 6 thousand revolutions per minute.

It is inconvenient to hold an electric motor in one hand from any of the listed types of equipment, and in most cases it is simply impossible. Therefore, you will need flexible shaft for engraver... Wherein general form the future device will turn out approximately as in the photo below.

The functionality of the created device for engraving will depend on the materials and mechanisms used in the assembly. The motor can be placed on the table, but it is more convenient to make tripod for engraver, or rather its likeness.

Making a flexible shaft

With a flexible shaft, everything is relatively simple. It can be done in several ways:

• from an old drive shaft, for example from a dental drill;
• using the cable of the motorcycle or car speedometer.

The shaft attachment can also be used from the drill or make it yourself from different materials, for example, made of wood, PCB, plastic pipes. From PCB the device (handle) for holding the rig is done as follows:

• cut off 2 textolite platinum (sheet thickness should be about 1 cm) about 2 by 10 cm in size;
• connect them together and grind them with a file or emery from the outside to make a cylinder;
• grooves are machined from the inside;
• metal rings fix the parts to each other;
• a tube is inserted into the front of the handle, under a cartridge, consisting of two separate halves, connected with a bolt.

As a result, you get a handle, as in the photo below.

The internal hole made between the textolite plates should be of such a cross-section so as not to impede the free rotation of the cable. It will be possible to insert nozzles with shank diameters from 2 to 5 mm into the chuck.

Assembling the engraving machine

It is very easy to make a tripod (base for mounting an electric motor) from plywood or the same PCB. To do this, proceed as follows:

• cut from a sheet of material several pieces (4 is enough) of the size corresponding to the electric motor;
• a motor is attached to one of the fragments using clamps;
• collect the box;
• a hole is drilled in the front for the flexible shaft.

The created structure is suspended from the wall.

Convenient to use factory holder with clamps for the engraver, if the dimensions of the electric motor allow. The mount connects to any table. But such a device will need to be purchased additionally.

Further assembly of the engraving device is performed in the following sequence:

• using a clutch created from a drilled bolt, connect the cable to the motor shaft;

• put a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter on the cable and attach the made handle to it;

• install the start button;
• connect equipment to the network;

• check the performance of the device made.

A homemade drill will allow you to process wood, bone, metal, glass, plastic, ceramic blanks, as well as different metals, natural and artificial stone.

You can also use electric motors to create homemade straight grinders, designed for 380 V, but if they can be adjusted to 220. In such cases, you will need to tinker additionally. There is a lot of information on this issue both on the Internet and in books on electrical engineering.

Making a mini drill from a motor

It happens that at home you need to make small holes in wood or plastic, while drills from a drill are not suitable. In such cases, a homemade mini-drill from a motor will help. It can also be used to perform wood engraving... And if there is an interest in radio amateurism, then using the created tool, you can drill and cut boards.

To create a homemade device, you need to take a miniature electric motor from an old tape recorder. Even different models of motors from children's toys will do. If you use a mini-motor from a 12 V tape recorder as a drive, then you will also need the following materials and parts:

• power supply unit or several batteries (accumulator) with 12 V output;
• a piece of plastic pipe (about 10 cm long) with such a cross section that a miniature electric motor can be inserted inside;
• heat-resistant glue;
• power button;
• wiring for electrical connections.

Do-it-yourself mini-drill is assembled, acting according to the following algorithm:

• using an electric drill or a knife, a hole is made in the tube for the switch;
• lubricate the motor with glue to fix it inside the future housing;

• insert the electric motor into the tube;
• any of the wires through which the motor is powered is poked into the hole drilled in the case earlier, and the other end is left on the back of the case;

• insert one wire from the power supply into the hole under the button;
• solder the switch with a soldering iron to the protruding ends, carefully isolating the contacts;

• the two wires remaining from the end of the tube (from the button and the motor) are connected to the connector for connecting the power supply;

• cut off the neck of any plastic bottle;
• make a hole in the center of the cover for the connector and glue these parts;
• glue the neck to the tube;

• connect the assembled mini drill to the power supply;

• by pressing a button, they check the performance of the homemade product.

Supply unit voltage must be selected to match the operating voltage of the motor being used.

To make a mini drill autonomous, you just need to adapt the batteries to it.

Homemade dremel from a drill and blender

If you have an old or unnecessary blender, then it is also easy to make a mini drill out of it. This household appliance there is already a comfortable grip. In addition to the blender itself, you will also need such devices and additional parts:

• tools to disassemble the device (screwdrivers with different tips, pliers);
• vernier caliper or ruler;
• collet;
• soldering iron with soldering kit;
• file for finishing, sandpaper;
• switch.

You can do without the last part, but then you will need to constantly press the power button with your hand while working with a straight grinder.

A blender engraver is created like this:

• carefully disassemble household appliances;
• take out the internal parts: the electric motor and printed circuit board which controls the operation of the device;
• using a vernier caliper, measure the diameter of the spindle in order to purchase a collet chuck suitable for it;
• if the electric motor is contaminated with something, for example, rust, then it is thoroughly, with care, so as not to damage the windings, clean;
• fix the purchased collet chuck (or made independently) on the spindle;
• the power button already on the blender is replaced with a switch: solder the wire contacts;
• fit a hole in the housing of a household appliance for a new switch;
• install the electric motor with the board in place inside the case;
• collect the tool.

Depending on the model of the blender being converted, you may need to make additional holes in its body, or expand existing ones with a file. This will not be a problem.

The entire described process of assembling a dremel from a blender is demonstrated in detail in the video below.

You do not have to remodel the blender, but simply connect a flexible shaft to it for a factory-made engraver. The docking method is shown in the video below.

You can also make an engraver using a drill. The assembly of variants with and without flexible shaft is shown in the following videos.

Making an engraver from a 3D printer

An ordinary 3D printer is a good basis for creating an engraver with which you can cut various materials, do crafts and perform other operations. To upgrade an existing device, you will need an additional install the board, which will power the operational circuits of the equipment and the laser module.

An engraving machine created from a 3D printer is demonstrated in the following video.

In addition to the considered simplest ways to create a homemade engraving machine from a 3D printer, a small electric motor, a small electric motor, a blender and a drill, there are also other options. In this case, both this technique and other power tools are used as a basis. Craftsmen constantly come up with new modifications, showing design imagination. Implementing in practice any of the above options or independent development, you should provide security created homemade products. To do this, it is necessary to insulate the electrical contacts well and assemble the equipment reliably.