Hello everyone!
A couple of years ago, a very busy project from UFactory appeared on Kickstarter - the UARM desktop robo-hand. They promised to make a project open over time, but I could not wait and engaged a reverse engineering on photographs.
Over the years, I made four versions of my visions of this manipulator and eventually developed this design:
This is a robot-hand with an integrated controller, moving into motion five servo. Its main advantage is that all the details either can be bought, or cheap and quickly cut out of the orcigner with a laser.
Since I took Open Sorce as a source of inspiration, then I share my own results completely. You can download all the sources on the links at the end of the article and, if you wish, collect the same (all links at the end of the article).

But it is easier to show it once in work, than long to tell that she is:

So, we turn to the description.
Specifications

1. Height: 300mm.
2. Working area (with a completely elongated manipulator): from 140mm to 300mm around the base
3. Maximum load capacity on the elongated hand, not less: 200g
4. Current consumption, not more than: 6a

I also want to mention some design features:

1. Bearings in all moving parts of the manipulator. There are only eleven of them: 10 pieces per shaft 3mm and one on the shaft 30mm.
2. Easy assembly. I paid a lot of attention to ensuring such a sequence of assembling a manipulator at which all parts are fixed extremely convenient. It was especially difficult to do this for the nodes of powerful servo drives at the base.
3. All powerful servo drives are located at the base. That is, the "lower" servo drives do not drag "upper".
4. Due to parallel joints, the tool always remains parallel or perpendicular to the Earth.
5. The position of the manipulator can be changed by 90 degrees.
6. Ready Arduino-compatible software. Right collected hand can be controlled by the mouse, and according to examples of the code you can make up your movement algorithms

Design Description
All details of the manipulator are cut from plexiglass thick 3 and 5mm:

Pay attention to how the turning base is going:
The most difficult thing is the node at the bottom of the manipulator. In the first versions, I left a lot of strength to gather it. It connects three servo and efforts to capture. Details rotate around the pin with a diameter of 6mm. Capture is held PARROLELLO (or perpendicular) working surface At the expense of additional thrust:

The manipulator with the shoulder and elbow is shown in the photo below. It is also worth adding culbage and thrust for her:

Pleasses are also installed on bearings. It can shrink and turn around its axis:
Cleeper can be installed both vertically and horizontally:

All arduino-compatible card and shind for it is managed:

Assembly
To assemble a manipulator will need about two hours and a bunch of fasteners. The assembly process itself, I am inmil in the form of instructions in photos (carefully, traffic!) With detailed comments on each operation. I also made a detailed 3D model in simple and free program Sketchup. So you can always turn it before your eyes and see incomprehensible places:


Electronics and programming
I made a whole shield on which I installed, in addition to servo and power and power connectors, variable resistors. For the convenience of debugging. In fact, it is enough with the layout to bring signals to the engines. But in the end it turned out this so shield, which (so it happened) I ordered at the factory:

In general, I made three different programs under Arduino. One to control from a computer, one to work in demo and one to control buttons and variable resistors. The most interesting of them, of course, the first. I will not give a whole code here - it is available online.
To control you need to download a computer program. After its launch, the mouse goes into hand control mode. The movement is responsible for moving on XY, the wheel changes the height, LKM / PCM - grip, PCM + wheel - rotation of the manipulator. And it is actually convenient. It was on the video at the beginning of the article.
Project source code

Create a robot manipulator using a rangefinder, we realize the backlight.

We will cut the base from acrylic. We use servo as engines.

General description of the project robot manipulator

The project used 6 servomotors. For the mechanical part used acrylic thickness of 2 millimeters. As a tripod, the foundation from the disco-ball was useful (one of the engines was mounted inside). Also used ultrasonic distance sensor and 10 mm diameter.

ARDUINO Power Plata is used to control the robot. Power supply itself - computer power supply.

The project contains exhaustive explanations for the development of robot-hands. Separately, issues of food of the designed structure are considered.

Main nodes for project manipulator

Let's start the development. You will need:

• 6 servomotors (I used 2 models MG946, 2 MG995, 2 Futuba S3003 (MG995 / MG946 according to the characteristics better than Futuba S3003, but the last is much cheaper);
• acrylic 2 millimeter thick (and a small piece of 4 mm thick);
• ultrasonic HC-SR04 distance sensor;
• lEDs 10 mm (color - at your discretion);
• tripod (used as a base);
• grabbed aluminum (costs about 10-15 dollars).

For driving:

• Pay Arduino Uno. (in the project used homemade feewhich is completely similar to Arduino);
• power supply (you have to do it yourself, we will return to this question later, it requires separate attention);
• power supply (in this case, a computer power supply is used);
• computer for programming your manipulator (if you are using Arduino programming, it means, ARDUINO IDE environment)

Of course, you will use cables and some basic tools like screwdrivers, etc. Now we can proceed to design.

Assembly mechanical part

Before the start of developing the mechanical part of the manipulator, it is worth noting that I do not have the drawings. All nodes were made on the knee. But the principle is very simple. You have two links from acrylic, between which the servomotors need to be installed. And other two links. Also for installing engines. Well, and grab himself. Similar grabs is easiest to buy on the Internet. Almost everything is installed with screws.

The length of the first part is about 19 cm; The second is about 17.5; The length of the foreground is about 5.5 cm. The remaining dimensions are picking in accordance with the size of your project. In principle, the size of the rest of the nodes is not so important.

The mechanical hand should provide an angle of rotation of 180 degrees at the base. So we must set the servomotor below. In this case, it is installed in that very disco ball. In your case, it can be any suitable boxing. The robot is installed on this servomotor. You can, as shown in the figure, install an additional metal flange ring. You can do without it.

To install an ultrasonic sensor, an acrylic is used with a thickness of 2 mm. Immediately below can be installed LED.

It is difficult to explain in detail how to construct a similar manipulator. Much depends on those nodes and parts that you have in stock or you acquire. For example, if the dimensions of your servo drives differ, the links of Arma from acrylic will also change. If dimensions are changed, the manipulator calibration will also differ.

You will definitely have to end the development of the mechanical part of the manipulator to lengthen the servomotor cables. For these purposes, wires from the Internet cable were used in this project. In order for all this to be kind, do not be lazy and install on the free ends of the elongated adapter cables - mom or dad, depending on the outputs of your Arduino card, Shild or power source.

After assembling the mechanical part, we can go to the "brains" of our manipulator.

Grabs manipulator

To set the grip, you will need a servomotor and several screws.

So what exactly needs to be done.

You take the rocking chair from the servo and shortening until she comes to your grasp. After that, twist two small screws.

After installing the server, turn it into the extreme left position and squeeze the grasp sponge.

Now you can install a server for 4 bolts. At the same time, make sure that the engine is still in the extreme left position, and the sponge of the grab is closed.

You can connect the servo to the Arduino board and check the performance of the grip.

Note that there may be problems with the work of grab, if the bolts / screws are too tightened.

Adding backlight on the manipulator

You can make your project brighter by adding backlight on it. For this, LEDs were used. It is done simple, and in the dark looks very impressive.

Places to install LEDs depend on your creative and fantasy.

Electroshem

You can use instead of a resistor R1 potentiometer per 100 kΩ to adjust the brightness manually. Resistors for 118 ohms were used as resistance R2.

List of main nodes that were used:

• R1 - resistor on 100 com
• R2 - 118 ohm resistor
• Transistor BC547
• Photoresistor.
• 7 LEDs
• Switch
• Connect to Arduino board

ARDUINO fee was used as a microcontroller. The power supply unit from the personal computer was used as a nutrition. By connecting the multimeter to the red and black cables, you will see 5 volts (which are used for servomotors and ultrasonic distance sensor). Yellow and black will give you 12 volts (for Arduino). We make 5 connectors for servomotors, in parallel we connect positive to 5 V, and negative - to the ground. Similarly, with a distance sensor.

After that, connect the remaining connectors (one from each server and two from the rangefinder) to the board and Arduino. At the same time, do not forget in the program in the future correctly specify the pins that you used.

In addition, the power indicator LED was installed on the power board. It is implemented. Additionally, a 100 ohm resistor was used between 5 V and Earth.

The 10 millimeter LED on the robot is also connected to Arduino. A 100 ohm resistor comes from 13 pins to a positive foot of the LED. Negative - to Earth. In the program it can be turned off.

For 6 servomotors, 6 connectors are used, since 2 servomotor devices use the same control signal from below. The corresponding conductors are connected and connected to one pine.

I repeat that the power supply unit from the personal computer is used as a power. Or, of course, you can purchase a separate power source. But taking into account the fact that we have 6 drives, each of which can consume about 2 A, such a powerful power supply will be not suited.

Please note that the serv connectors are connected to the ARDUINO PWM outputs. Near each such pin on the board there symbol ~. Ultrasonic Petry sensor can be connected to Pins 6, 7. LED - to 13 pins and earth. These are all pins that we need.

Now we can proceed to Arduino programming.

Before connecting a fee via USB to a computer, make sure that you have turned off the power. When you test the program, also disconnect the power of your robot-hand. If the power does not turn off, Arduino will receive 5 volts from USB and 12 volts from the power supply. Accordingly, the power from USB will replicate to the power source and it will see a bit.

The connection diagram shows that potentiometers were added to control the serv. Potentiometers are not a mandatory link, but the given code will not work without them. Potentiometers can be connected to Pins 0.1,2,3 and 4.

Programming and first launch

5 potentiometers were used to control (it can be replaced with 1 potentiometer and two joysticks). Connection diagram with potentiometers is shown in the previous part. Skatch for Arduino is here.

The bottom is presented several video robot manipulator in operation. I hope you will enjoy.

On the video from above, the latest modifications of Arma are represented. I had to change the design slightly and replace several details. It turned out that Serva Futuba S3003 is weak. They were able to use only for grab or turn hands. So Viesto was installed MG995. Well, the MG946 will generally be an excellent option.

Management program and explanations for it

// drive drives using variable resistors - potentiometers.

iNT POTPIN \u003d 0; // Analog PIN to connect potentiometer

int val; // variable for reading data from analog pin

myservo1.attach (3);

myservo2.attach (5);

mYSERVO3.ATTACH (9);

myservo4.attach (10);

myservo5.attach (11);

pinmode (LED, Output);

(// SERVO 1 Analog Pin 0

val \u003d Analogread (Potpin); // reads the potentiometer value (value between 0 and 1023)

// Scales the resulting value for use with gray (we get a value in the range from 0 to 180)

mYSERVO1.WRITE (VAL); // displays the server to the position in accordance with the calculated value

delay (15); // Wait for the servomotor to be released in the specified position.

val \u003d Analogread (Potpin1); // Serva 2 at analog pin 1

vAL \u003d MAP (VAL, 0, 1023, 0, 179);

mYSERVO2.WRITE (VAL);

val \u003d Analogread (Potpin2); // Serva 3 at analog pin 2

vAL \u003d MAP (VAL, 0, 1023, 0, 179);

mYSERVO3.WRITE (VAL);

val \u003d Analogread (Potpin3); // Serva 4 at analog pin 3

vAL \u003d MAP (VAL, 0, 1023, 0, 179);

mYSERVO4.WRITE (VAL);

val \u003d Analogread (Potpin4); // Serva 5 at analog pin 4

vAL \u003d MAP (VAL, 0, 1023, 0, 179);

mYSERVO5.WRITE (VAL);

Sketch using an ultrasonic distance sensor

This is probably one of the most spectacular parts of the project. A distance sensor is installed on the manipulator that responds to obstacles around.

The main explanations for the code are presented below.

#Define Trigpin 7.

Next piece of code:

We have assigned all 5 signals (for 6 drives) names (may be any)

Following:

Serial.begin (9600);

pinmode (TRIGPIN, OUTPUT);

pinmode (Echopin, Input);

pinmode (LED, Output);

myservo1.attach (3);

myservo2.attach (5);

mYSERVO3.ATTACH (9);

myservo4.attach (10);

myservo5.attach (11);

We inform the Arduino board to which Pins are connected by LEDs, servomotors and a distance sensor. Nothing is worth changing here.

void position1 () (

digitalWrite (LED, HIGH);

mYSERVO2.WRITEMICROSECONDS (1300);

mYSERVO4.WRITEMICROSECONDS (800);

mYSERVO5.WRITEMICROSECONDS (1000);

Here something can be changed. I asked the position and called it Position1. It will be used in the following program. If you want to provide another move, change the values \u200b\u200bin brackets in the range from 0 to 3000.

Thereafter:

void position2 () (

digitalWrite (LED, LOW);

mYSERVO2.WRITEMICROSECONDS (1200);

mYSERVO3.WRITEMICROSECONDS (1300);

mYSERVO4.WRITEMICROSECONDS (1400);

mYSERVO5.WRITEMICROSECONDS (2200);

Similar to the previous piece, only in this case is POSITION2. By the same principle you can add new positions to move.

long Duration, Distance;

digitalWrite (Trigpin, Low);

dELAYMICROSECONDS (2);

digitalWrite (TRIGPIN, HIGH);

dELAYMICROSECONDS (10);

digitalWrite (Trigpin, Low);

duration \u003d Pulsein (Echopin, High);

distance \u003d (Duration / 2) / 29.1;

Now begins to work out the main program code. Do not change it. The main task of the above rows is to adjust the distance sensor.

Thereafter:

if (distance<= 30) {

if (distance< 10) {

mYSERVO5.WRITEMICROSECONDS (2200); // Open grabs

mYSERVO5.WRITEMICROSECONDS (1000); // Close Chatting

Now you can add new movements depending on the distance measured by the ultrasonic sensor.

if (distance<=30){ // данная строка обеспечивает переход в position1, если расстояние меньше 30 см.

pOSITION1 (); // In essence, AWP will work out all that you specify between brackets ()

eLSE (// If the distance is more than 30 cm, the transition to position2

pOSITION () 2 // Similar to the previous line

You can change the distance in the code well, and create everything you wish.

Last Lines of Coda

if (distance\u003e 30 || Distance<= 0){

Serial.println ("Out of Range"); // Conclusion in serial monitor reports that we have come out for the specified range

Serial.print (Distance);

Serial.println ("cm"); // Distance in centimeters

delay (500); // Delay in 0.5 seconds

Of course, you can translate everything in millimeters, meters, change the displayed message, etc. You can play a little with the delay.

Here, in fact, everything. Enjoy, upgrade your own manipulators, share ideas and reuters!

This project is a multi-level modular task. The first stage of the project is to build a robotic hand-manipulator module supplied in the form of a set of details. The second stage of the task will be the IBM PC interface assembly is also from the set of parts. Finally, the third stage of the task is to create a voice control module.

A manipulator of the robot can be controlled manually using a manual control panel included in the set. The robot hand can also be controlled either through the IBM PC interface collected from the dial, or using the voice control module. The IBM PC interface set allows you to manage and program the actions of the robot through the IBM PC working computer. The voice control device will allow you to control the robot hand using voice commands.

All these modules together form a functional device that will allow you to conduct experiments and program automated sequences of actions or even "revive" managed completely "on wires" hand-manipulator.

The PC interface will allow you using a personal computer to program the hand-manipulator on the automated action chain or "revive" it. There is also an option in which you can control your hand in interactive mode using either a manual controller or a program under Windows 95/98. The "revival" of the hand is an "entertainment" part of the chain of the programmed automated actions. For example, if you wear a children's glovety doll on the hand-manipsener and program a device to show a small show, then you will program the "revival" of the electronic doll. Programming of automated actions is widely used in industry and entertainment industry.

The most widely used in the industry robot is a robot hand-manipulator. The robot's hand is an exceptionally flexible tool, if only because the final segment of the hand manipulator can be the appropriate tool required for a particular task or production. For example, a hinge welding manipulator can be used for spot welding, with a spray nozzle, you can paint various parts and nodes, and the capture can be used for clamping and installing objects - these are just some examples.

So, as we see, the robot hand-manipulator performs a lot of useful features and can serve as an ideal tool for studying various processes. However, the creation of a robotic hand-manipulator from "zero" is a complex task. It is much easier to assemble a hand from the details of the finished set. OWI sells fairly good hand-manipulator sets, which can be purchased from many distributors of electronic devices (see the list of parts at the end of this chapter). Using the interface, you can connect the collected hand-manipulator to the port of the workflow printer. You can use the IBM PC Series Machine or compatible that supports DOS or Windows 95/98.

After connecting to the computer's printer port, the hand-manipulator can be controlled in an interactive mode or programmatically from the computer. Hand control in interactive mode is very simple. To do this, it is enough to click on one of the function keys to transfer the robot to the command of performing a movement. The second keystroke stops the execution of the command.

Programming the chain of automated actions is also not difficult. First click the Program key to go to the program fashion. In this fashion, the hand functions in the same way as described above, but in addition, each function and its action is fixed in the Script file. The script file may contain up to 99 different functions, including pauses. The Script file itself can be reproduced 99 times. The record of various Script files allows you to perform experiments with a computer-driven sequence of automated actions and "revitalizing" hands. Working with the Windows 95/98 program is described in more detail below. The program under Windows is enabled in a set of a robotic hand-manipulator interface or can be downloaded free from the Internet http://www.imagesco.com.

In addition to the Windows program, your hand can be controlled using Basic or QBasic. The DOS level program is contained on diskettes included in the interface set. However, the DOS program allows you to control only interactive mode using the keyboard (see printout of the Basic program on one of the diskettes). The DOS level program does not allow creating script files. However, if there is a programming experience on Basic, then the sequence of the hand-manipulator movements can be programmed similarly to the work of the Script file used in the Windows program. The sequence of movements can be repeated, as is done in many "animated" robots.

Robotic hand manipulator

Hand-manipulator (see Fig. 15.1) has three degrees of freedom of movement. The elbow articulation can move vertically up-down arc about 135 °. The shoulder "joint" moves the capture back and forth on an arc of about 120 °. The hand can be rotated on the base clockwise or counterclockwise an angle of about 350 °. Capture the hand of the robot can take and hold objects up to 5 cm in diameter and rotate around in a busy articulation by about 340 °.

Fig. 15.1. Kinematic scheme of movements and turns hands-robot

To bring hands in motion, the company OWI Robotic Arm Trainer used five miniature DC motors. Engines provide hand control using wires. Such a "wired" management means that each function of the robot movement (i.e., the operation of the corresponding engine) is controlled by separate wires (voltage supply). Each of the five DC motors controls its hand-manipulator movement. Wire control allows you to make a hand controller block directly reacting to electrical signals. This simplifies the robot hand interface scheme that connects to the printer port.

The hand is made of light plastic. Most parts carrying the bulk are also made of plastic. DC motors used in hand structures are miniature high-speed engines with low torque. To increase the torque, each motor is connected to the gearbox. Motors together with gearboxes are set inside the hand-manipulator design. Although the gearbox increases the torque, the hand of the robot cannot raise or carry enough heavy items. The recommended maximum allowable weight when picked up is 130 g.

The set for the manufacture of the hand of the robot and its components are presented in Figures 15.2 and 15.3.

Fig. 15.2. Robot hand making set

Fig. 15.3. Reducer before assembly

Engine management principle

In order to understand the principle of operation of the Wire Management, let's see how the digital signal controls the operation of a separate DC motor. Two complementary transistors are required to control the engine. One transistor has a PNP type conductivity, the other is respectively the conductivity of the NPN type. Each transistor works as an electronic key, controlling the flow of current flowing through the DC motor. The direction of current traffic controlled by each of the transistors are opposite. The current direction determines the direction of rotation of the engine, respectively, clockwise or counterclockwise. In fig. 15.4 A test diagram is given, which you can collect before making an interface. Please note that when both transistors are locked, the engine is turned off. Only one transistor must be enabled at each time. If at some point both transistors will accidentally open, it will lead to a short circuit. Each engine is controlled by two interface transistors working in the same way.

Fig. 15.4. Diagram of the verification device

Interface Construction for PC

The interface PC scheme is shown in Fig. 15.5. The interface PC set includes a printed circuit board, the location of parts on which is shown in Fig. 15.6.

Fig. 15.5. Circuit diagram of the RS interface

Fig. 15.6. Location of the PC Interface Parts

First of all, you need to define the side of the editing of the printed circuit board. On the installation side, white lines, denoting resistors, transistors, diodes, IP and DB25 connector are stuck. All items are inserted into the board from the mounting side.

Overall Note: After soldering, the parts to the printed circuit board should be removed overly long conclusions from the print side. It is very convenient to follow a certain sequence when installing parts. First, mount the resistors of 100 kΩ (Color marking of the rings: brown, black, yellow, gold or silver), which are indicated by R1-R10. Then, mount 5 D1-D5 diodes, making sure that the black strip on diodes is located opposite the DB25 connector, as shown by white lines applied to the installation side of the printed circuit board. Then mount the resistors 15 kΩ (color marking, brown, green, orange, gold or silver), designated R11 and R13. In position R12, solder the red LED to the board. The anode of the LED corresponds to the hole for R12, indicated by the + sign. Then, mount 14- and 20-pin panels under U1 and U2. Mount and shift the corner-type DB25 connector. Do not attempt to insert the legs of the connector in the fee with an excessive force, it takes exceptionally accuracy. If necessary, gently shake the connector, trying not to drive the legs of the conclusions. Fasten the engine switch and voltage regulator type 7805. Cut four pieces of wire required lengths and solder to the top of the switch. Stick the location of the wires, as shown in the figure. Insert and sweep the TIP 120 and TIP 125 transistors. Finally, blow the eight-contact socket connector and connecting 75 millimeter cable. The base is mounted so that the longest conclusions are watching up. Insert the two IS - 74LS373 and 74LS164 - in the appropriate panels. Make sure the position of the IP key on its lid coincides with the key marked with white lines on the printed circuit board. You might notice that there were places for additional details on the board. This place is intended for a network adapter. In fig. 15.7 shows a photo of the finished interface from the installation side.

Fig. 15.7. PC interface assembly. View from above

Principle of operation of the interface

The hand manipulator has five DC motors. Accordingly, we will need 10 input / output tires to control each engine, including the direction of rotation. Parallel (Printer) IBM PC port and compatible machines contains only eight I / O tes. To increase the number of control tires in the robot hand interface, uses 74LS164, which is a sequential code converter to parallel (SIPO). When using all two tires of the parallel port D0 and D1, which the serial code is sent to IP, we can get eight additional I / O tes. As already mentioned, you can create eight I / O bus, but this interface uses five of them.

When the serial code enters the input of the IC 74LS164, the corresponding parallel code appears at the output. If the outputs of the IC 74LS164 were directly connected to the inputs of control transistors, then the individual functions of the hand-manipulator were turned on and turned off in the tact of sending a serial code. Obviously, such a situation is invalid. To avoid this, the second IP 74LS373 is introduced into the interface scheme - a controlled eight-channel electronic key.

IC 74LS373 The eight-channel key has eight input and eight output tires. Binary information present on the input tires is transmitted to the appropriate IS outputs only if the authorizing signal is filed on the IP. After turning off the resolution signal, the current state of the output tire is maintained (remembered). In this state, the signals at the IP input do not have any action on the state of the output tires.

After transmitting a sequential information package in IC 74LS164 from the output of the parallel port, the allowing signal to IP 74LS373 is supplied. This allows you to transfer information already in parallel code from entering 74LS174 to its output bus. The state of the output tires is controlled according to the TIP 120 transistors, which, in turn, control the hand-manipulator functions. The process is repeated when submitting each new command on the hand-manipulator. Tires of the parallel port D3-D7 control directly by TIP 125 transistors.

Connecting the interface to hand manipulator

Power supply to a robotic hand-manipulator is carried out from the power supply of 6 V, consisting of four D-elements located at the base of the structure. The PC interface is also powered by this source 6. The power source is bipolar and issues a voltage ± 3 V. Power on the interface is supplied through an eight-contact Molex connector attached to the base of the manipulator.

Connect the interface to the hand manipulator using an eight-cable Molex cable 75 mm. The Molex cable is attached to the connector located at the base of the manipulator (see Fig. 15.8). Check the correctness and reliability of the connector insert. To connect the interface board with a computer, a 180 cm long type cable is used in the set. One end of the cable joins the printer port. The other end is connected to the DB25 connector on the interface board.

Fig. 15.8. Connection of the RS interface with a hand-robot

In most cases, the printer is connected to the printer port. In order not to engage and disconnect the connectors each time you want to use a manipulator, it is useful to purchase a two-position switch of the switch A / B printer switch (DB25). Attach the manipulator interface connector to the input A, and the printer - to the input V. Now you can use the switch to connect the computer or with the printer or with the interface.

Installing the program under Windows 95

Insert the diskette 3.5 "with the" Disc 1 "label to the floppy disk drive and run the setup.exe program. The installation program will create a directory named" Images "on the hard disk and copy the necessary files to this directory. In Start The menu will appear icon images. To start the program, click on the Images icon in the start menu.

Working with the program under Windows 95

Connect the interface with the computer printer port using a DB 25 cable with a length of 180 cm. Connect the interface with the base of the hand manipulator. Until a certain time, keep the interface in the off state. If at this time you enable the interface, then the information retained in the printer port can cause the movement of the hand-manipulator.

By clicking two times on the Images icon in the start menu, run the program. The program window is shown in Fig. 15.9. When the program is running, the Red LED on the interface board must flash. Note: In order for the LED to flash, the power supply is not required. The speed of flashing LED is determined by the speed of the processor of your computer. The flickering of the LED may be very dull; In order to notice this, you may have to reduce the illumination in the room and fold the palm of the "ring" to observe the LED. If the LED does not flash, then perhaps the program refers to the erroneous port address (LPT port). To switch the interface to another port address (LPT port), go to the PRINTER PORT OPTIONS BOX, located in the upper right corner of the screen. Select another option. The correct installation of the port address will call the LED flashing.

Fig. 15.9. Screenshot of the RS interface program under Windows

When the LED flashes, click on the PUUSE icon and only turn on the interface. Clicking the corresponding function key will cause the hand-manipulator response. Re-clicking will stop traffic. Using the function keys for hand control is called interactive mode management.

Creating a script file

Script files are used to program movements and automated hand-manipulator action sequences. The Script file contains a list of temporary commands controlling the movements of the hand-manipulator. Create a script file is very simple. To create a file, click on the Program function key. This operation will allow you to enter the Script file programming. Pressing the function keys, we will control the movements of the hand, as we have already done, but the information of the commands will be recorded in the yellow script table located in the lower left corner of the screen. The step number starting from the unit will be listed in the left column, and for each new team it will increase by one. The type of movement (function) is specified in the middle column. After re-clicking the function key, the movement stops, and in the third column, the value of the movement from its start to the end appears. Movement time is indicated up to a quarter to a second. Continuing in the same way, the user can program up to 99 movements in the Script file, including pauses in time. Then the Script file can be saved, and then upload from any directory. The execution of the Script file commands can be cyclically repeated to 99 times, for which you want to enter the number of repetitions to the Repeat window and press Start. To end the writing to the Script file, press the Interactive key. This command will translate the computer back to the interactive mode.

"Revival" objects

Script files can be used for computer automation or to "revive" objects. In the case of "revitalization" of objects, a managed robotic mechanical "skeleton" is usually covered with an outer shell and is not visible. Remember the glove duff described at the beginning of the chapter? The outer shell may have a kind of person (partially or completely), the aliens, animal, plants, stone and anything else.

Restrictions on the scope of application

If you want to achieve a professional level of performing automated actions or "revitalizing" items, then, so to speak, to maintain the brand, positioning accuracy when performing movements at each moment of time should approach 100%.

However, you may notice that as the sequence of actions recorded in the Script file can be repeated, the position of the hand-manipulator (pattern movement) will differ from the initial one. This happens for several reasons. As the battery discharge the power source of the hand-manipulator, the power decreased to the DC motors leads to a decrease in torque and rotational speed of the engines. Thus, the length of movement of the manipulator and the height of the raised cargo in the same period of time will differ for the sealing and "fresh" batteries. But the reason is not only in this. Even with a stabilized power source, the engine shaft rotation frequency will change because there is no engine speed regulator. For each fixed segment of time, the number of revolutions will be slightly different every time. This will lead to the fact that each time the position of the hand-manipulator will also differ. To top it all, there is a certain backlash in gears of the gearbox, which is also not taken into account. Under the influence of all these factors, which we reviewed in detail here, when executing a cycle of repeating Script file commands, the position of the hand manipulator will be a bit different every time.

Search for source position

You can improve the operation of the device by adding a feedback scheme that tracks the position of the hand manipulator. This information can be entered into a computer, which will determine the absolute position of the manipulator. With such a positional feedback system, it is possible to install the position of the hand manipulator in the same point at the beginning of the execution of each sequence of commands recorded in the Script file.

For this there are many opportunities. In one of the main methods, position control at each point is not provided. Instead, a set of limit switches, which correspond to the original "starting" position. The limit switches determine exactly only one position - when the manipulator comes to the "Start" position. To do this, you need to set the sequence of the limit switches (buttons) so that they are closed when the manipulator reaches an extreme position in one direction or another direction. For example, one end switch can be installed on the basis of the manipulator. The switch must only work when the hand manipulator reaches the extreme position when rotating clockwise. Other end switches must be installed on the shoulder and elbow articulation. They must work with the full extent of the corresponding articulation. Another switch is installed on the brush and triggers when the brush turns until it stops clockwise. The last terminal switch is installed on the grip and closes when it is fully opening. To put a manipulator to its original position, each possible movement of the manipulator is carried out to the side necessary to close the corresponding terminal switch until this switch is closed. After the initial position is reached for each movement, the computer will definitely "know" the true position of the hand manipulator.

After reaching the initial position, we can re-run the program recorded in the Script file, based on the assumption that positioning error during each cycle will accumulate quite slowly, which will not lead to too large deviations of the position of the manipulator from the desired. After executing the Script file, the hand is set to its original position, and the script file cycle is repeated.

In some sequences, knowledge of only the starting position is insufficient, for example, when picked up an egg without a risk, crush it. In such cases, a more complex and accurate positional feedback system is needed. Signals from sensors can be treated with ADC. The resulting signals can be used to determine the values \u200b\u200bof parameters such as position, pressure, speed and torque. As an illustration, you can bring the following simple example. Imagine that you attached a small linear variable resistor to the grip node. A variable resistor is set in such a way that the movement of its engine back and back is associated with opening and closing the grip. Thus, depending on the degree of opening of the grip, the resistance of an alternating resistor is changing. After calibration, using the measurement of the current resistance of the variable resistor, you can accurately establish an angle for disclosing capture clips.

Creating a similar feedback system introduces another level of complexity in the device and, accordingly, leads to its increase. Therefore, a simpler option is to introduce a manual control system to adjust the position and movements of the hand manipulator during the execution of the Script program.

Manual Interface Management System

After you make sure that the interface works in the right way, you can connect a manual control unit using an 8-pin flat connector. Check the position of connecting the 8-pin Molex connector to the connector head on the interface board, as shown in Fig. 15.10. Gently insert the connector before its reliable connection. After that, the hand-manipulator can be controlled from the manual console at any time. It does not matter if the interface with the computer is connected or not.

Fig. 15.10. Manual control

DOS control program from keyboard

There is a DOS program that allows you to control the work of the hand-manipulator from the computer keyboard in the interactive mode. The list of keys corresponding to the execution of a function is given in the table.

B voice control with hand-manipulator uses a speech recognition (URR), which was described in ch. 7. In this chapter, we will produce an interface that connects Urr with hand-manipulator. This interface is also offered in the form of a set by Images Si, Inc.

The diagram of the URR interface is shown in Fig. 15.11. The interface uses 16F84 microcontroller. The program for the microcontroller looks like this:

'Urr interface program

Symbol porta \u003d 5

SYMBOL TRISA \u003d 133

Symbol portb \u003d 6

SYMBOL TRISB \u003d 134

If Bit4 \u003d 0 Then Trigger 'If the entry into the trigger is allowed, read the scheme

Goto Start 'Repetition

pAUSE 500 'Waiting 0,5 s

PEEK PORTB, B0 'Reading BCD Code

If Bit5 \u003d 1 Then Send 'Output Code

goto Start 'Repetition

peek porta, b0 'port reading a

if Bit4 \u003d 1 Then Eleven 'number is 11?

poke Portb, B0 'Output Code

goto Start 'Repetition

if Bit0 \u003d 0 Then Ten

goto Start 'Repetition

goto Start 'Repetition

Fig. 15.11. Urr controller diagram for hands-robot

Update program under 16f84 You can download free from http://www.imagesco.com

Programming the URR interface

Programming URR interface is similar to the programming procedure of URR from the set described in ch. 7. For proper operation of the hand-manipulator, you must program command words according to numbers corresponding to a specific motion of the manipulator. In tab. 15.1 are examples of command words that control the work of the hand manipulator. You can choose command words to your taste.

Table 15.1

List of parts for PC interface

(5) NPN TIP120 transistor

(5) PNP TIP 125 transistor

(1) IP 74164 Code Converter

(1) IP 74LS373 eight keys

(1) Red LED

(5) Diode 1N914

(1) Molex connector socket for 8 contacts

(1) Molex 8-Length Cable 75 mm

(1) two-position switch

(1) Corner Type DB25

(1) Cable DB 25 1.8 m with two M - type connectors.

(1) PCB

(3) Resistor 15 com, 0.25 W

All listed parts are included in the set.

List of parts for speech recognition interface

(5) TRANSISTOR NPN TIP 120

(5) PNP TIP 125 transistor

(1) IP 4011 logical element or non

(1) IP 4049 - 6 buffers

(1) IP 741 Operation Amplifier

(1) Resistor 5.6 com, 0.25 W

(1) Resistor 15 com, 0.25 W

(1) Molex 8 Connector Head Parts

(1) Molex 8 cable lived, length 75 mm

(10) 100 com resistor, 0.25 W

(1) Resistor 4.7 com, 0.25 W

(1) IP voltage regulator 7805

(1) Is PIC 16F84 microcontroller

(1) quartz resonator 4.0 MHz

Set of hand-manipulator interface

Set for making hand manipulator OWI

Speech recognition interface for hand-manipulator

Speech recognition device

Details can be ordered to:

Images, Si, Inc.

General

So, all the joysticks can be classified on different grounds, the method of connection and type of sensors are relevant to us.

By the method of connecting the joysticks are divided into joysticks with a USB connection and Game Port connected. It is possible to make it yourself from zero joystick on USB it unknown, however, I believe that this is if it is possible, then only highly qualified radio engineers. Other dealing with the finished USB joystick under your taste and your needs. It is available to almost everyone who can hold a soldering iron in his hands. Make from scratch Joystick on Game Port is easy, and quite by the power of every person who can and loving messing with plastic and iron tsatski. :-)

By type of sensors, the joysticks are divided into joysticks built on an optical sensor, on variable resistors and magnetic resistors. Each of the listed types can be made on Game Port. The only thing but is that I have no idea of \u200b\u200bmagnetic resistors, so I will only talk about optics and variable resistors.

How to make a joystick

In my opinion, the closest attention when creating your own joystick should be given to its mechanics. The main enemy on this front is the backlash. How can I overcome it? My decision cannot be called simple, easy and cheap. However, it can be called it mechanically perfect. It is that all rotary nodes are collected on rolling bearings with a double support of each part. This design has three advantages - a complete lack of backlash, damn strength and the highest positioning accuracy. There is also a smooth move, excluding jerk and uneven movement.

Next, choose the type of electronic filling. Optics or resistors? Optics more accurate, it excludes trembling. However, optics are very difficult to install and configure. Resistors are easier in installation. But you need to be very legible in the choice of resistors, buy imported and not cheap, otherwise the jitter is ensured, which will spoil all the impression.

Let's start with the mechanics. Here look, here I drew a swivel knot of my self-made joystick. Ball bearings are used by outer diameter 19 and internal 6 mm. All bearings are inserted and fastened in sharpened round metal washers, 12 mm thick.

So, we see that the entire node consists of three main nodes: the knot roll, pitch and rocking schools.

The boot is bought from the ball zhiguli, but not large, but small, with a diameter of a gum 14 mm. Just under the handle tube. This boot can be in addition to protecting the mechanism from dust and outsiders, jumps the handle, and keeps it in the middle position.

To affect the rocking chair the bolt of fastening the tube is drilled in the center, and the M3 thread bolt is screwed into it without a hat. This bolt passes the moment on the rocking chair.

The lining I made a 10 mm thick of the Vinicles. Next, drilled in the center hole, and the bearing was pressed in it (the force was pressed. It holds perfectly). The bearings themselves are removed from 3.5 coolers (Blovier), if it is on rolling bearings.

Here is a shot of mechanics:

Having made the mechanics node (it may take several months to this), you need to make a case. Here you already have a full space. I use a viniplast for this. It is used in industrial production when installing electrical nodes. Thickness varies from 3 mm and to the unknown. The fattest I saw 30 mm. We need a thickness of at least 8 mm for the stock of strength.

Viniplast is very durable, elastic, and well processed. From it you can glue by bauxite any body, your taste. We will smooth the corners, paint - no one distinguishes from the factory. Here, however, there is one nuance. In order for the body to be stronger, and looked more decently, I do it.

We take a unpacked piece of vinicles of the desired size, outline the pencils of the folds of the folds. Now you are looking for any electrical appliance that has an incandescent surface of about 400 and above degrees (it is desirable that when you touch a piece of viniplast to the surface of the heating, the veiniplast slightly melted - then the temperature will come down). The perfect option is a rod of the Tan, with a diameter of 8 - 15 mm. I have an unidentified culinary electrical appliance, which has such a surface - a round rod that is fused to red. I used it. Keep some time a viniplast over this rod so that from the outlined pencil strip to the rod was the minimum distance that does not allow the material to melt. When the segment of the viniplast is sufficiently warmed, it becomes elastic, and easily bends to the desired angle. In our case, it is 90 degrees. Then, with the angle with his hands, cool the fold under the jet of cold water from the water tap, the viniplast is frozen, and it is forever :-). Also enter the opposite surface. It remains to cut out two side linings from the viniplast, to firmly fit them so that they can be inside without gaps, and glue epoxy resin. Next, we do in the upper surface of the newly minted housing the required hole for the rus stem, weeping the bottom cover. It should turn out something like this:

Then we mount the rotary assembly to the body, and the joystick itself is almost ready.

If the design is painted, and add a large boot, it will come about it:

As you can see the joystick outdoor. The knob itself with the Military Mi-8 (such was installed on Mi-24).

But why is almost ready? And because there is no pedals ...

The most difficult thing in the pedals is to make them in a decent look so that they do not resemble a tool tool :-) Here look.

Technology is simple. We take the desired piece of textolite, heated exactly in the middle, and bend on the sharp angle (more than 90 degrees). The angle is needed that the ends of the pedal in the middle position be at a minimum distance from the surface, and in extreme positions, the distance from the end to the surface was equal. Next, we make two vertical slots in the vertical surface to the desired pedals. Then we take two small door loops, drinking the pedals themselves on their width and the required length, and connect the loops, pedals and the core.

Then we make steel guides, screw them into pedals. Steel guides are exposed to turning - in the right places weaken so that the gum does not fall down (the gum is filled with blue), and in the necessary thicken, because the string will go through this thickness (in the figure is filled with red), providing feedback of pedals. The string itself should be durable and thin. I used for its role a durable plater insulation of an electrical cable. A lounge caproic rope will come. This rope needs to be stretched through two blocks. It is desirable that these blocks are assembled on ball bearings, and have grooves so that the string does not fall. Blocks are mounted on bolts with a diameter of 6 mm. It is impossible less, since this is carrying a node, we will work with your feet, and the strength is needed.

In the figure, I depicted a method for fastening the resistor, and transmission to it. It is even easier to arrange an optical scheme. All electromechanical economy is closed by plastic casing.

Currently, I make new pedals, a fundamentally different design. After finishing the work, I will make the necessary drawings and put here with explanations.

... a few months passed ...

So the hour came when I can start describing new pedals.

Frequently flying (for more than a year) on pedals (so I call the pedals of the above type, they can still be called automanifiers), I realized that it was ripe to increase the level of realism :-) The pedals were resigned, and a comrade was donated.

It all started with a thought about the design. In general, the most difficult and most important thing in the pedalism (as in general in creativity) is to first completely build pedals in the head and on paper. Only after that, you should move to the material embodiment of pedals. If you do not follow this principle, constant alterations are inevitable, which is poured, ultimately, in disfiguring the design, and leads to the survey of new materials.

Let's decide with the essence of hardcore airplanes.

Hardcore airfoots:

1. Work on the principle of feedback (you give one pedal from myself - the second goes to you);
2. The pedals themselves do not change the horizontal installation angle;
3. The distance between the pedals must correspond to the same distance in real aircraft;
4. Pedals are spring-loaded, and have a clearly sensible legs, a neutral positioning point.

In order for such pedals to work, you need:

1. A large contact area of \u200b\u200bthe base of pedals with a floor to eliminate the design;
2. Eliminate the possibility of slipping the base of pedals on the floor;

The first stage of thinking over pedals is the stage of inventing the founding of future pedals :-) two ways are possible. The first is to go along the path of the smallest resistance - to take a thick sheet of chipboard for the base, and mount all the necessary nodes on it, providing the base with rubber stickers to eliminate the displacement of the structure. The second path (more complimentary) is to come up with something other, not solid, not heavy and not cumbersome. Within the framework of this path, we allocate two. The first is to manufacture the basis. The second is to take ready. In the first case, the T-shaped design is manufactured from metal pipes, on which the necessary nodes are fixed. In the ends of the design, spikes are constructed. In the second case, the problem is the research of the desired shirpotreb. I solved it, applying as a foundation the foundation of a domestic metal rack under the TV. It is a black five (I met four-day), it happens with wheels, or without that. From the wheels will have to get rid of.

The inner diameter of the "glass" of this rack, and its depth allows you to place a robust node of the mechanics of future pedals in it.

The node itself can be made manually, and can be ordered from toctor / milling machine. In any case, you will have to buy two bearing, an outer diameter of 40 mm.

At first I did the knot myself, from the priest materials that found in the boxes with the trash. It was quite difficult, since it is impossible to choose a bolt with a diameter of the thread corresponding to the inner diameter of bearings, which entails the tedious process of the bearings on the bolt. It is also not easy at home to drill M14 bolt through along. However, everything is done. Having made, I ran into one problem. The fact is that the pedals I went to the Top Gun Fox Pro 2 USB chip. A survey of the resistor "pedal" axis in this joe is designed for rigid fixation of the polarity of the resistor. In other words, the pedal meaning is correctly interviewed only if the cutting of the extreme legs is identical to the original. However, if the resistor is located under construction (glass pedal rack), then to achieve conformity of the focus on the pedals and the steering reaction in the game, you need to overpass extreme contacts on the resistor. After the recreation, the resistor survey is distorted, unevenness appears in control, the centering is constantly knocked down.

Another problem that was not solved with the go, was the centering of pedals. I tried two options. Realizing the first, I tried to capture the springs to the barn of pedals from two sides. However, it was wrong, because the springs were tight, and one of the sides of the pedals always rested in the spring, which was already compressed. In the second case, I drilled the bar in the center horizontally, and attached a bolt there, which threw the spring. This option turned out to be not bad, except that did not provide an exactly felt neutral zone. As later, it turned out that the bolt-applied bolt with a diameter of 6 mm was not sufficiently durable, and fogs.

Also, a cheerful story happened to the progress of pedals. I originally conceived to make limiters, and spent a lot of time on their installation. There were also their own options, their mistakes and the only possible solution. However, when I once took off the limiters and tried the pedals without them, I came to the conclusion about the unnecessaryness of the limiters. This is due to the fact that if the pedals focus sufficiently, turn them into a critical angle for the resistor is simply impossible, applying reasonable efforts on pedals - the spring does not give to twist anymore, and the entire design begins to move. In other words, in order to hate the head of the inspection, you need to specifically set this goal, and move into one pedal with the whole mass. However, in this case, you can easily break the limiter, and the entire springing system. And if so, then the limiters are not needed. Everything looked like this:

In general, suffering from a resistor, I decided to transplant the resistor upstairs. To do this, it was necessary to remiss the essential nodes of the design of the mechanical node, since the pedals were played from above. This time I decided to turn to the turner. Made a drawing that here I bring. If there is a desire to go according to my footsteps, the drawing can be saved to the disk, print on the printer, and carry a turntable.

In order to mount the resulting design at the base, you need to drill the base and cut into the threads in the holes in order to fix the node in the glass to the bolts.

To be or not to be? This is what question is puzzled in the first paragraph. No, get me right, ores as such, of course, is necessary on the joystick, the fact is whether it should be separate from the joystick? An unambiguous answer can only be given if your joystick is outdoor. If the outdoor one is needed. And if the joy is a tabletop? And to control the engine, it contains the corresponding lever (slider)? There is a case of everyone. It depends on the views of Virpil on the life of his Wirpilskaya, his coremade :-) My opinion is definitely - if Joy is a tabletop, then you have another box with a lever to control the engine, there is nothing but a reason for the hysteria in the smokehead. I will like the chickens, and they will laugh so much that can even be filtered.

Why am I so categorical in this matter? Yes, because I absolutely do not see the reasons for the appearance of a separate ore next to the desk joe. What can make a reason? Need to expand functionality? It's funny, because the foundations of modern joysticks are styled with buttons located quite conveniently. And if not enough, you can briefly remove your hand from the base and poke the keyboard to the keyboard, located in a pair of centimeters from the base of the joystick. In addition, to operate in battle with a thumb of the left hand much more handy, rather than shouted with the whole limb of there and here on a separate ore. Verified. But maybe this is a noble desire for an increase in realism ?? Especially ridiculous, since realism is primarily concluded in airfathers, in the second place in the outdoor Rus, and only in the third place - in a separate ore. Using the metaphor, it can be pointed out that it is like to make a desktop ore with a desktop rus that is a weak old computer for the purchase of a new "Patzansky" hull bucks for 300 :-) However, this is my opinion, it is subjective. Maybe someone is more important than the case.

I hope you decided on the need for you separate ores. If your life is disabled with a gray and gloomy, then continue the debate :-)

So what are the basic requirements for ore?

1. Smooth move without jerks, unevenness in moving;
2. Tight passage. Thug so much so that the ore was held in the position in which you were released, and did not move from the oscillations of the ether :-);
3. The sufficient weight and size of the base so that when manipulations of ores, the base of the ores is not on the table (stool);
4. Comfortable handle;
5. Sufficient amplitude of moving ore.

How will we implement these requirements? The smoothness will ensure the construction of the mechanism on the ball bearings. Tight runs will achieve the use of a brandy system. Weight increase cargo. Dimensions will be sufficient. Finally, amplitude adjust the needs.

Let's start by tradition from the mechanics block.

The first question here will be the option of the basic attachment of the mechanics node. The following options are possible:

1. Top mount;
2. Lower mount;
3. Side mount.

We look in the picture:

Each option has its pros and cons.

The first option is preferable to the fact that when it is used, access to the contents of ores is extremely facilitated - removed the bottom cover and operate as pies :-) The minuses consist in the fact that, firstly, the casing itself should be sufficiently strong and thick, secondly The top of the bolts will appear on the top panel (us, aesthets, it is not stuck), and thirdly, the length of the rod rod is reduced, and according to the reduction, the trajectory of the course of ores is spinning.

The advantage of the second option is the large length of the rod rod, the ability to use for the casing of the ore base material of the fond, there are no bolts caps on the top of the base, the efforts to the ores are more successful in terms of the stability of the structure. The disadvantage of the second option is difficult access to the womb. For opening, you will need to unscrew the bottom cover, and the mechanism itself is from the lid. Yes, and the mechanics will be partially hidden by the facet of the corner-fastener.

The third option has all the advantages of the second (if the mechanism is fixed to the bottom cover). Its only large minus is the need to make the limiters of the RUD movement (in the first embodiments, the amplitude of the RUD movement is limited to the size of the slot in the housing), as for the small minus, it lies in the fact that it looks 2 options less thoroughly than the first two. Yes, I almost forgot - plus the fact that there is no slot on the top panel, and the mud into the body does not fall.

I chose the third option. The reason is that I got all the material for the manufacture of a normal case. When I'll get the material to the allest according to option 2. And you decide for yourself. As stated, based on abilities and needs :-)

Yes, by the way, another option is possible, namely:

This option is preferable for "retro" lovers :-), it is fundamentally similar to Yak-3 ore. However, this scheme has one substantial minus - it is difficult to place the buttons and additional axis in the handles. And even more difficult to use these axes and use buttons. There is limited functionality.

In general, okay. It seems to be finished with this, the choice to do you, and I relieved him a little, because I pointed out the pros and cons. Wash your hands :-)

We now turn to the consideration of the unit mechanics directly. Two ball bearing with an internal diameter of 7 mm will be required. If you have chosen the bottom scheme, then, respectively, four bearings. Also, I also advise you to get a corner with grain 70 mm, or just a plate of steel, a thickness of at least 5 mm (in this case, it will have to fix the mechanics to the lid when implementing the upper scheme # 3). We look at the drawing, side view:

As can be seen in the figure, the Rud ridge will be put on the M6 \u200b\u200bthreaded bolt, then the metal tube is expected (it is desirable that its inner diameter allows you to sit on the bolt to the field) 10 mm long, then the bearing is back, the tube is again, but a little more (20-30 mm) , again the bearing, and all this is firmly tightened with a nut. The end of the bolt is pre-processed on the emery, so that its diameter was 3-4 mm.

After assembling the system, four holes are drilled on the metal plate, and bearings are attached to the plate with clamps. This is visible in the following figure:

The device of the braking system, I think obviously. Braking force is regulated by a tightening nut on the heel. As a braking gasket, I chose the skin strips (suede), because the skin does not crumble as rubber and does not mold the mechanism. The brake acts long enough, and does not weaken.

When you finish the assembly of the mechanical node, only to attach the base plate according to the selected variant (to the bottom cover or to the top of the case). As a mechanic to suspend the stench, I think it is understandable.

Rud ore can be made of both tube (steel rod) and from the plate. I used a strip of textolite, 8mm thick, and a width of approximately 40 mm. Lightly bent her at the end, and attached a handle to the curved end.

Now about the case. The base body can be done by itself, and you can take the finished plastic box of the desired size. If you decide to do, I recommend guided by tips in the General Information section. Mechanics, where I told how to make hulls.

The insides of the housing can be polished with various iron for weighting design. And finally, supply the bottom cover with rubber stickers to increase the friction of the ore and surface housing.

Finally, a few words about the handle of ore directly. It can be done in different ways. Follow your own wishes. I chose a hollow plastic glass and twisting lid for the handle. Hollow because in it I posted buttons and a screw pitch control resistor. How to do this look Figure:

So, the ore handle is such a glass of translucent, white plastic with thick walls. I found this glass by chance. In it, I had a drill at home :-) The glass was made as a cone, and in a wide part it has a thread, which is winding the lid. I attached this cover (four bolts M4) to a thick strip of curved textolite, made a hole to skip the stranded wire. A glass is screwed onto the cover - that's all ores.

In the upper (deaf) part, the glass was drilled, and there was a stench (domestic, 150 com, Potpared instead of Trustmaster to the board. In a domestic big amplitude, the turn is interviewed, and the native meager corner of the survey). Further on the deaf part from the outside (three m4 bolts) a homemade washer made of thick textolite, the vocation of which is to hide the nut fastening the stenus to the glass, and remove the gap between the flying resistor and the shell of the glass. On the stem, the stenus is dressed in the twirl from the node of the photo ending, which (happy coincidence) is suitable for a diameter to the glass. It looks like this:

Here's how the hand is lying on it:

In conclusion, I want to add that everything that I described here is done without attracting outsiders. All you need - vice, hacksaw for metal, drill, plumbing set (drills, taps and larky). I also used the eath machine of its own manufacture. If you do not have it, then do not despair - a file and hands are creating miracles. The rest of the tools (passatasi, plumbing, etc.), I think everyone has.

Kelt. (makkov. AT. mail dot. ru)

- Simple manipulator from plexiglass on servo drives.

UARM project from UFactory collected funds at the kickstarter for more than two years ago. From the very beginning they said that it would be an open project, but immediately after the end of the company, they did not hurry to lay out sources. I just wanted to cut the plexiglass according to their drawings and everything, but since the source was not foreseen and did not foresee in the foreseeable future, I began to repeat the design of photographs.

Now my robo-hand looks like this:

Working slowly in two years I managed to make four versions and got a lot of experience. Description, project history and all project files you can find under the cut.

Samples and errors

Starting work on drawings, I wanted not just to repeat the UARM, but to improve it. It seemed to me that in my conditions it is quite possible to do without bearings. I also did not like the fact that the electronics rotates with the whole manipulator and wanted to simplify the design of the lower part of the hinge. Plus, I began to draw it at once a little less.

With such input parameters, I drew the first version. Unfortunately, I have not survived by photos of the version of the manipulator (which was made in yellow). Errors in it were simply epic. First, it was almost impossible to collect it. As a rule, the mechanics that I painted to the manipulator was quite simple, and I did not have to think about the assembly process. But still, I collected him and tried to run, and the hand almost did not move! All the children spinled around the screws and, if I delayed them so that there were fewer backlash, she could not move. If weakened so that it can move, incredible backlays appeared. As a result, the concept did not live and three days. And started working on the second version of the manipulator.

Red was already quite suitable for work. He was normally gathered and could move with lubricant. I was able to test the software on it, but still the lack of bearings and large losses on different traction did it very weak.

Then I abandoned the work on a project for a while, but soon I decided to bring it to mind. I decided to use more powerful and popular servo drives, increase the size and add bearings. And I decided that I would not try to make everything perfect immediately. I sketched the drawings on the ambulance hands, without drawing a beautiful pairing and ordered cutting from a transparent plexiglass. On the resulting manipulator, I was able to debug the assembly process, revealed places that need additional strengthening, and learned to use bearings.

After I played enough with a transparent manipulator, I sat down for the drawings of the final white version. So, now all the mechanics are fully debugged, suits me and ready to declare that nothing else wants to change in this design:

I am depressing that I could not bring anything fundamentally new to the UARM project. By the time I began to draw the final version, they had already rolled out the 3D models on the grabcad. As a result, I just simplified a little progress, prepared files in a convenient format and applied very simple and standard components.

Features manipulator

Before the appearance of UARM, the desktop manipulators of this class looked quite sad. They either had no electronics in general, or there was some control with resistors, or was its proprietary software. Secondly, they usually did not have a system of parallel hinges and the capture itself was changed in the process of work. If you collect all the advantages of my manipulator, it turns out a long enough list:

1. The system that allows you to place powerful I am heavy engines at the base of the manipulator, as well as the retaining capture in parallel or perpendicular to the base
2. Simple set of components that are easy to buy or cut from plexiglass
3. Bearings Almost all nodes of the manipulator
4. Easy assembly. It turned out to be a truly difficult task. It was especially difficult to think over the assembly process
5. Capture position can be changed by 90 degrees
6. Open sources and documentation. Everything is prepared in the available formats. I will give links to download on 3D models, cutting files, materials, electronics and software
7. Arduino-compatibility. There are many opponents Arduino, but I believe that this is the possibility of expanding the audience. Professionals may well write their software on C - this is the usual ATMEL controller!

Mechanics

For the assembly, it is necessary to cut parts from a plexiglass thick 5mm:

With me for cutting all these items took about $ 10.

The base is mounted on the Big Bearing:

It was especially difficult to consider the basis from the point of view of the assembly process, but I spied the engineers from the UARM. Rocking boards are sitting on a pin with a diameter of 6mm. It should be noted that the elbow thrust is kept on the P-shaped holder, and at the UFactory on the M-shaped. It is difficult to explain what's the difference, but I think I got better.

Capture is collected separately. It can turn around his axis. The tick sits right on the shaft of the engine:

At the end of the article, I will give a reference to a super-detailed instruction on the assembly in photos. In a couple of hours you can confidently twist it, if everything is needed at hand. I also prepared a 3D model in the free Sketchup program. It can be downloaded, twist and see what and how collected.

Electronics

To force your hand to work just enough to connect five servo drives to Arduino and apply meals from a good source. UARM uses some kind of feedback engines. I put three conventional MG995 engines and two small engines with a metal gearbox to control the capture.

Here my story is closely woven with previous projects. For some time, I started teaching Arduino programming and even prepared its Arduino-compatible fee for these purposes. On the other hand, some time it turned up the opportunity to make boosts (which I also wrote). As a result, all this ended in that I used to manage a manipulator my own Arduino-compatible fee and specialized shield.

This shield is actually very simple. There are four variable resistor, two buttons, five servo connectors and power connector. It is very convenient from the point of view of debugging. You can download the test sketch and burn some macro to control or something like that. The link to download the board file, I will also give at the end of the article, but it is prepared for manufacture with metallization of holes, so little is suitable for home production.

Programming

The most interesting thing is to control the manipulator from the computer. UARM has a convenient manipulator management application and a protocol to work with it. The computer sends to the COM port 11 bytes. The first one is always 0xFF, the second 0xaa and some of the remaining - signals for servo drives. Further, these data are normalized and surrendered to the development of engines. I have servo drives connected to digital inputs / outputs 9-12, but it can be easily changed.

The UARM terminal program allows you to change five parameters when managing the mouse. When the mouse moves over the surface, the position of the manipulator in the XY plane changes. Rotation of the wheel - a change in height. LKM / PKM - squeeze / dismiss the claw. PKM + Wheel - Turning Capture. Actually very convenient. If you wish, you can write any terminal software that will communicate with the manipulator by the same protocol.

I will live sketchy - download them will be at the end of the article.

Video of work

And finally, the video of the manipulator's video. It shows the control of the mouse, resistors and on the previously recorded program.

Links

Files for cutting plexiglas, 3D models, a purchase list, board drawings and software can be downloaded at the end of my main article.
(Caution, traffic).