Advice. How to assemble the built-in wardrobe do it yourself how to assemble a three-rolled wardrobe coupe

Many of us face the need to buy a closet. The model of the wardrobe has become very popular. Its door design is extremely convenient and saves free space in the room. They are even used as partition. There are two ways to solve this question:

• contact the firm that is engaged in assembling furniture;
• order details of the cabinet and collect it yourself.

The second option, of course, will cost cheaper than the first. But this process will require certain skills and skills. It is very important to correctly perform measurements of all parameters of the design, think over the size of all offices and shelves, height and width of the product. If you are ready to take on this job, then you need to figure out how to do it.

Preparatory stage

Step-by-step instruction

To fulfill everything correctly, you need to follow the instructions. let's consider the entire procedure in more detail.

Door installation

Be careful when working with doors. The convenience of the door is also dependent on the quality of the profile. It is sold unchanged and consists of such details:

• guides - rails;
• the base is the lower frame;
• the side frames (C, H) perform the role of the door handles, and rollers, upper frames are attached to them;
• plastic and rubberized rollers;
• stopper for lower guide;
• a strip of a pile, which is attached to the door of the door, serves to soften the blow from the door closing;
• silicone compactor for fastening the mirror.

The seal must be applied along the entire length evenly and gently. On the mirror, which is in a horizontal position, fasten the profile frame at the top and bottom. Next wear side frames on the mirror in a vertical position. Frames are connected by self-drawing in the prepared holes.

Installing the door begins with fastening. Measure the attachment points below and at the top of the cabinet. Guides are attached with self-drawers with press-washers, also in prepared holes. First install the upper part, combining the side frames, then the bottom. Use the level to avoid curvature. Put the stopper to fix the door. Do the door insert into the upper and then lower the bottom guide. Using the lower rollers, the height and angle of the door are adjusted. Your wardrobe is ready.

At each stage, pay attention to the assembly scheme of this model. To clarify all the difficult moments, look at the video structure. If you doubt your construction skills and design abilities, consult professionals.

An independent assembly of furniture helps to significantly save money. Well, if a person owns simple assembly skills. The beginners will be useful to learn how to collect a wardrobe on their own. Step-by-step actions to install each item product will allow quick installation.

Among all types of products for storing clothing, the leading place today occupies a wardrobe. It is multifunctional, spacious, produced in different forms and sizes, and also does not require additional space to open doors. That is why most people when choosing between a wrapping and wardrobe, prefer the last option.

Cabinet assembly with your own hands on video presented quite simple - for this it is enough to have the necessary tools in the apartment and be familiar with the design of the product. Often when ordering a cabinet without collectors, companies send a document in which the product drawing is present. Also lists all components of the parts that are numbered in order. Looking at the drawing and comparing the elements of the cabinet you can intuitively assemble the product.

To work according to the closet assembly scheme, the coupe will require such tools:

• construction level - To check the flattering installation parallel to the floor;
• corner;
• rubber and ordinary hammer;
• straight and cross screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil and ruler;
• screwdriver;
• drill for wood - to make holes;
• metal drill - to install aluminum base.

Of the additional tools for assembling the furniture, the electrolovka, drill and sandpaper can be useful. It is also necessary to prepare all the details of the cabinet, and this means to check the scheme for compliance with the number of objects. Pay attention to fittings and mechanisms: if there are drawers in the cabinet - ball guides should go in the package.

Doors for the product are often supplied ready. They are pre-installed rollers and strips of soft material. Mount the door is necessary on the final phase.

Instruments

Stages assembly

To know where to get started, it is worth familiar with its stages. Most coupe cabinets are assembled according to the following algorithm:

• base;
• housing;
• installing the rear wall;
• installation of shelves and guides;
• installation of door coupe.

After the stages done, the internal additional elements are implemented. These include retractable baskets, boxes, rods, mounted hooks and pantographs. Consider the installation of each cabinet element separately.

Stages assembly

Cocol

Assembling cabinets of the video coupe of which is presented below begins from the bottom, which accounts for the entire load during operation. We find the item that will perform this function, and put it in front of yourself. In order that the process has passed correctly, use such tools as screwdrivers or screwdriver, hexagon, pencil and roulette for marking. Also check the presence of screws and special camouflage plugs.

The algorithm of action looks like this:

• the details for the bottom placed a place for the installation of the base;
• sometimes instead of the base slats, adjustable legs are used, the place for which also needs to be outlined;
• we drill holes for fasteners;
• we attach the bottom to the planks using confirmates (corners) - for this, the screws and a screwdriver are used;
• collect the transverse supports of the base designed for stability.

Some products, such as the Phoenix coupe model, require installation with adjustable legs. It is easy to do this: plastic plugs are cut off with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into the hole prepared at the bottom of the hole with a diameter of 10 mm.

Depending on the size of the collected cabinet compartment, the number of legs will be adjusted. So, for large planes, more than 6 support elements will be required.

Preliminary marking of the cabinet base

The basis is the easiest to collect on furniture metal corners

Setting legs

Finished base with legs

Housing

Before disassembled and collecting cabinets with scratch, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general structure of the existing product. Carefully learn the scheme, because the build assembly should ensure the safe operation of the cabinet. From how reliably it is installed, the stability of the internal elements will be important.

In order to assemble the furniture to be accurate, you should additionally check the surface of the floor to evenness. Use the construction level: if the semi has drops - twist the adjustable legs. Only then assemble the product box.

To qualitatively implement the installation of the case, follow these steps:

• it is better to collect a product standing, because in a lying position to mount the perfectly adjacent wardrobe is very difficult. But it is important to remember that for complete assembly it is necessary to leave a minimum of 100 mm for mounting the roof;
• in a part that is responsible for the bottom, you must first screw several holes and insert anchor. At the installed fasteners will be mounted racks;
• installation of stale panels is carried out together: so as not to get confused, you can view the instructions for assembling the cabinet compartment, represented in the video footage. First, the left side of the sidewall is inserted, one person holds it until the second inserts the right sidewall;
• at the next step, the average is mounted, if it is present. After its installation, the roof is mounted. If the cabinet is going to stand in a standing position, then secure this item will be correct to corners or confirm.

It is a bit more difficult to collect a wardrobe model of the model of a maestro with a variety of functions. Its installation is carried out in slower, preferably several people.

Fastening takes place with the help of EuroNes

Installing the side and inner walls of the cabinet

The base is connected to the case using the corners of the confirm

Installing the back wall

To assemble the coupe yourself, in particular to attach the rear wall of the product, it is necessary to correctly choose consumables - fasteners. Often, the collectors apply incorrectly selected consumables, which is why the panel from the fiberboard departs from the furniture product. In Soviet times, organitis on the back wall was collected with nails, which today should be done undesirable.

For greater reliability, attach the wall from the fiberboard to the cabinet with the help of screws. That is how the product will not be spoiled during operation.

Mounting furniture for yourself, it is important to carry out a high-quality cabinet assembly with your own hands: the video, which is presented below, clearly shows all the complex nuances. Perform the following manipulations:

• get the panel of organity for the cabinet;
• holding the leaf with your hands, use short screws and with a screwdriver or screwdriver screw them at a distance of 10-20 cm.

If the cabinet has several rear walls at once, they must be attached to the jack. Use special tightening fastes, then screw the screws on the backdrop of the middle plank.

Fastening the back wall

Installation of shelves and guides

In order not to disassemble the product and redo its work, check the reliability and stability of the frame, and then proceed to filling the internal elements: shelves, rods, boxes and guides. You can engage in self-assembly wardrobe coupe by video that is at the bottom of the article. It clearly provides information about all important points of the process.

Attention should be paid to such nuances:

• the mounting of the shelves can be carried out with the help of corners and screws. For this, the details themselves already have twisted holes. Pre-notice the distance between the shelves and they are attaching them to the sidewalls and the central stalk;
• first, the upper guides are installed for doors, after which the lower rails are mounted. It should be emphasized that the installation of these items should be carried out strictly in a straight line - the correctness of the doors will depend on this;
• the rod is installed on special flanges going with it complete. If necessary, the length of the pipe is peeled with a metal with a metal. If the Fortuna Cabinet is assembled, it is worth paying attention to a large number of items and not to confuse them;
• boxes and retractable baskets are inserted into the product after fastening the mechanisms for their work.

Before making the internal content itself, check the availability of all accessories and consumables.

Sliding guide system

Preparation of holes on guides

Before installing the guides, you must correctly place the stopper

Instruction

To begin with, explore the place where your closet will be put. If the wall, the floor or ceiling have some features, for example, in this place there is a pipe of the water pipeline, or there is a niche. Then you need how your closet will look like. Apply all sizes: height, width, wardrobe depth. Do not forget that 10 cm must be added to the desired indoor space, since the wardrobe is "eaten". Draw all the shelves that you want to install in the closet, mark them and their size too. It is best to plan the internal space of the cabinet as follows: the upper shelf-, separation for the top, the shelves for underwear on all family members, from the bottom - the shelf for shoes. So, the drawing in which you drew the schemes of all the parts of the cabinet is ready, it remains only to buy material, place it, cut it or cut, buy accessories and collect.

But before you go to the store, make up the assembly instructions. In it, step by step write the process of assembling all the parts, all the necessary accessories, which will also be needed. After all, it will be offended when when assembling it turns out that it will have to disassemble and collect anew.

The next stage is the purchase of materials, tools and accessories. In principle, it does not need special tools for assembling a wardrobe, if you have a standard set (hammer, screwdrivers with a different sting form), then it is enough for you. From the fittings you will need metal corners, dowels, self-tapping screws, rollers and guides for the coupe. The easiest material for the cabinet is a laminated chipboard. You can cut the boards in the construction supermarket itself if it provides such a service. So the mud at home will be less and the tools are professional you will not need.

Now the most important thing is to build a cabinet. Put the board on the floor, which will be the foundation of your cabinet. Attach the side boards with the help of dowels and corners - three on each side. In the same way, attach them to the wall, observing the horizontal and verticality of the attachments. If 1 compartment for hangers is provided in your closet, then the next fastener is a vertical board, which will split the cabinet space. Shelves are better to do non-removable so that they do not constantly fall. Since we are built on the closet, then let it all be fixed. Fresh shelves on the same corners and selflessness.

The most difficult thing is to install the doors to the guides. First screw the guides from the bottom to the screw. Do it strictly in terms of the level, otherwise the doors will take off the inclined. It is impossible to cope with the insertion of doors, so be sure to call assistants. You need to insert both doors together, put on them upper guides. Be sure to get to the lower guides. When the doors are inserted, alternately move the doors and screw the upper guide to the screw.

As you can see, collect the wardrobe yourself is independently difficult, but quite real.

Video on the topic

note

Wardrobe - one of the most convenient and compact ways of storing things. It has both small shelves for easy clothing items, and large - for more volumetric things, there are Ski storage compartments, a branch equipped with a barbell for the placement of outerwear, etc.

The compactness of the cabinet give sliding doors that do not require a place to break, they move on special rollers located inside the design of the door itself. To collect such a wardrobe may even be unreleased in such matters, as the assembly principle is quite simple and does not require the use of special tools.

Read the instructions and sort the items

First you need to carefully read the instructions and deal with separate details - find the lower and upper elements, side racks, internal partitions.

If you confuse at least one part, then it is guaranteed to be disassembled just the collected design and mounted all over again. Therefore, it is so important at the initial stage correctly determine the location of all parts of the cabinet.

Collect the carcass

First set the base (bottom item).

As a rule, this stove is attached to standings located along the long side, with the help of configmatics (these are the so-called eurgowrup, having a notch in a hat under a special hex key).

Install the inner partitions

In the lower end partitions there are holes, in which you need to insert the seasons before installation.

The wanking (chopper) is a small segment of a round rod, which serves to strengthen wooden connections.

In the bottom plate there are non-separation holes, which are intended for such sections. By combining the sewages and holes, install vertical partitions in your place (a helper will be required here).

Fix the shelves

Now, so that the design is not loosened, mounted the shelves, which in this case work as ribs.

Fix them using confirmates.

Fasteners at this stage must be wrapped to the end, not leaving free stroke.

We perform installation of lateral racks and top covers

Now the final part of the frame assembly is the installation of lateral racks and the top cover. All three items need to be installed simultaneously.

Although this action depends on the design features and location of fasteners on these details. First we install the sidewalls, covering them below with the base of the confirmates.

Then we put the lid on top, we combine the holes in all parts and also wrap the fasteners. Here you need to leave a little free stroke, as it will be necessary to align the entire frame.

Align the design

The level of leveling is to conduct the following actions. It is necessary to measure one diagonal with a roulette first, then the second and on the difference of values \u200b\u200bto determine which direction you need to "press" (move) the top of the cabinet in order for its angles to be perfectly straight.

Now you can wrap confirmities to the end with effort.

You feed the sheets of chipboard

The next stage of the assembly will be the feeding of the Fiberboard sheets on the back side of the cabinet.

These sheets will not only serve as a rear wall, but also securely hold the design from loosening the entire period of operation.

As a rule, the canvas have decorative processing from the front side in the form of a laminated color surface. Sheets are attached with small carnations, which need to score in the ends of all the elements of the cabinet (racks, partitions, shelves).

It is important here to guess the place of the feeding, because on the reverse side of the parts of the cabinet it is not visible, and the damage resulting from incorrect selection, they adversely affect the appearance of the product.

We place rails - guides

Now the most responsible moment is the installation of the lower and top rails for the doors. Nizhny rail has two rollers movement:

And the top is divided into two compartments:

In both, you must first drill the holes for the screws for fastening them to the base and the lid.

Holes must have a chamfer for screwing a screw flush.

It is enough to make 4 holes in each bar. The first brapping the lower rail, placing the appropriate places of fasteners.

The distance from the edge of the base to the front edge of the rail should be 2.5 cm.

In order for the doors not to jin and they move evenly, it is necessary to set the cabinet strictly horizontally, which can be done with the help of a regular construction level.

The longer the level is, the more accurate the horizontal indicators.

The top rail is attached similarly to the only difference that drilling holes is needed in a checker order in both compartments.

Screws from the set attached to the cabinet are used as fasteners.

From the front end of the top cover before the start of the rail edge, the distance should be 2 mm.

Mount the rods and accessories

The final structural stage will install the rod for the placement of outerwear.

First you need to place the mounting sites for one holder (it is mounted on the 3rd screws), drill holes and tighten the screws.

Then install the second holder on the rod, pressing it with its screw.

The collected design is first needed to try, aligning horizontally, and then outline and attach the same self-draws.

Turn the doors

Before this stage, you need to check the gutter in the bottom plank for the absence of garbage, which will interfere with the movement of the rollers, to make sure of the horizontal of the planes and check all the connections to the rigidity.

The door is first inserted into the upper rail.

And then the end rollers must be placed in the groove of the bottom rail.

Thus, all 4 doors are installed (the main thing is not to confuse the drawing).

In principle, nothing complicated in the installation of the wardrobe. Just need to be responsible to all stages of its assembly and then you will be waiting for not only advanced training as a home master, but also more thanks for the preservation of the family budget.

The assembly is completed - the result in the photo

The cabinet is one of the most functional furnishing items. It can be used not only for storing personal belongings, but also as an element, allowing you to hide visually "unfavorable" interior details present in any residential space.

Instruments: Drill (screwdriver), caliper, sewn, screwdriver, forster drill (35 mm), pencil, set drill on wood
Consumables: Sucks, Eurovints, PVA glue, silicone glue sealant

Next, we consider the process of self-assembly of a small suspended cabinet, which is used for the "aesthetic transformation" of the distribution box - functional, but externally not too elegant.

IMPORTANT: Using this method, you can achieve the best result if the door (facade) of the locker will be performed in a single color or style with facades of furniture heads of the hallway, kitchen, or living room.

Execution of measurements

At the first stage, measurements must be measured. Using, determine the exact values \u200b\u200bof the width and height of the distribution box.

Creating a sketch and closet scheme

Before performing the exact scheme of the future cabinet, it is recommended to draw his simplified sketch from hand. This will help you determine the optimal configuration of the elements and their location. It is better to make several sketches, and after - choose the most suitable.

Determine the amount and location of the shelves, the side of the door opening, and the fastening site (the angular elements are best fixed on both sides of the angle - i.e. on two adjacent walls). In order to correctly determine the height of the shelves, imagine - which items will be placed on them. If this is toiletries (vials, cans, bubbles, etc.) - make the height of the shelves corresponding to the longest of the alleged items (Fig. 1). Determine - how much the sizes of your cabinet will exceed the size of the distribution box - it is advisable to make the width of the cabinet slightly more, for the convenience of fastening the loops.

After the approximate sketch of the cabinet will be ready - perform a more accurate assembly scheme using box sizes defined earlier (Fig. 2). This scheme can be created using one of numerous free design programs, in any graphic editor, or simply draw it out of hand. When drafting the scheme, do not forget to properly design the spaces of the screeds, determine which element will be located, and which plane.

Do not forget about fasteners. Place the fasteners cap on the front of the product, even if the plugs are decorated after the plugs - it is extremely undesirable. For the screed of elements from the front side, it is recommended to use furniture wades (spikes). In the invisible places you can use conventional furniture corners, confirmates (Eurovintages) or classic screw screws.

Cool material

Material for the locker is LDSP. It is most accessible, easy to process and is rather durable. You can purchase ready-made panels and solve them yourself using, trimming saw or ordinary hacksaw. However, it is much more convenient to order the sawing of all elements of professionals. Cropped edges will be smaller and aesthetically, and you do not have to independently perform the lamination of the ends, which is also quite difficult to do, without having a hardware and a certain skill.

Based on the previously completed scheme, form an order sheet (Fig. 3), indicating the size and the desired amount of each element, as well as the location of the lamination (front side). And, of course, do not forget to determine the color of your future locker.

Preparation of cabinet elements to assembly

Streeting holes

In our example, the screed of elements is performed with the help of the wanks (from the front side) and the European countries - with the opposite (support) side. Holes for fastenings, in turn, are located on the inner planes of the side walls and the ends of the ceilings (Fig. 1).

In order for the markup to be accurate to carry out axial lines on which the centers of future holes will be. On the caliper, set the size corresponding to the half of the sheet thickness. As a rule, in the production of furniture, sheets of LDSP 16 mm thick are used, so in our example on the scale you should set the size of 8 mm.

IMPORTANT: To perform marking on LDSP (especially on light surfaces), a simple pencil is best. It is chemically inert and perfectly removed from the elements using an ordinary elasty.

Leave the tool close to the end edge of the element and mark the distance to the central axis. Do the same from the opposite edge of the end. Then, on the noted points, swipe the axial line.

Using the caliper, set aside the same distance (8 mm) on the plane of the element from both sides. Using the line or spend the axial line according to the markers made.

Axial lines must be applied to all ends and edges of the elements that will be subsequently tightened with fasteners.

After all the axis are performed, mark on each of them the location of the mounting holes. To do this, installing a size of 10-15 mm on the caliperkula, step back and mark this distance on the ends and planes of all elements.

IMPORTANT: Distance for all elements should be the same.

Using awl, make shallow punctures of marked points.

Using the electric drill or drill fastening holes with a thin drill (2 mm) to a depth equal to half the length of the wadder or the length of the Evrovint, reduced to the thickness of the LDSP (depending on which fastener type is used for a screed). Try to keep the drill tight, having a drill strictly perpendicular to the plane with a future hole.

IMPORTANT: In order not to make a mistake with the depth of the hole, use the strip of the painting tape or insulating tape by turning it the drill at the desired distance.

The full diameter of the holes is determined in accordance with the fasteners you used. In our example, the diameter of the waders is 8 mm, the diameter of the European countries is 6 mm, therefore, for the final resulting of the holes, the drills with a diameter of 8 and 6 mm are used, respectively. To work with confirmates, there are specialized drills that allow drilling a fixed depth holes in accordance with the fastener diameter. This snap is recommended to be applied with regular performance.

Call preliminary holes to the desired diameter a little deepening them. It is enough to make holes for 1-2 mm deeper - so you can quickly pull the elements. A small increase in depth is also necessary when using adhesive composition as an additional fixing factor.

When used to tighten the European programs, on the surface of one of the conjugated elements (in our example - on the side wall of the locker), it is necessary to perform through holes.

So that the Hat of the EuroNact is in the same plane with the surface of the element (deepened in the material), the holes from the spinning side of the European countries must be divided into a depth of about 2-3 mm. To do this, the drill with a diameter is slightly large than the diameter of the Hat of the EuroNT (in our example, the diameter of the drill is 10 mm).

Performing holes for fixing cabinet shelves

For fixing the shelves of the cabinet, you can use special stops (graders), or, as in our case, are small furniture corners. Polkter holders allow formed to rearrange the shelves, thus changing the height of their location, furniture corners - provide additional durability of the cabinet frame.

To determine the location of the corners, swipe the axial lines corresponding to the lower boundaries of the shelves.

IMPORTANT: When performing markup, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the LDSP, as well as the location of the loops and the convenience of mounting. If your shelves are low enough - make sure that you can fix them (Fig.4). Do not place the shelves too low and avoid too closely the location of the fasteners to each other.

In our example, the lower shelf is located strictly in the middle between the lower tie and the upper shelf of the cabinet (Fig. 6). To determine the height of the lower shelf (position of its upper edge), it is necessary to divide the distance between the lower edge of the upper shelf and the upper edge of the lower screed in half, and then add to the resulting magnitude of the thickness of the leaf of the LDSP (8 mm). Measure this distance from the lower edge of the upper shelf and swipe the axial line (Fig. 5).

To the line, attach a furniture corner and mark the centers for fixing the shelves in each of the reference points (at the rate of two corners on each side of the shelf). The distance from the front edge of the shelf to the corner is selected arbitrarily, but it should be borne in mind that the attachments should not be too noticeable when looking at the shelf on top.

In order for the markup to be more accurate, align and fix all the symmetrical cabinet elements (in our example, side support walls) using a long rule or. After that, perform the axial marking of all items at once (Fig.5). If you place the elements separately - the emergence of errors is inevitable.

If your cabinet size is not too big - carefully collect it on the floor (Fig. 6). The elements are not necessary to push the fasteners - it is enough to arrange next to each other. So you can verify the correctness of the cabinet assembly in advance and, if necessary, correct the mistakes made.

Sliver the holes under the corner on a small depth (3-4 mm) with a thin drill.

Performing holes for fixing the cabinet on the wall

The cabinet is fixed on both sides of the angle. Side the fixation is performed using two self-screws, rear - with a single furniture corner (Fig. 2). The side openings are performed in such a way that the fasteners move to them freely. In our example, their diameter is 4 mm. The place to accommodate the mounts is chosen arbitrarily.

Rear reference corner is located in the least noticeable place - under the middle shelf (Fig. 2). Applying the corner to the side wall of the cabinet in the right place, mark the mounting hole, then pierce and spoil it with a thin drill to a depth of about 2-3 mm (Fig. 7).

Wedding cabinet loops

Installation of cups of loops on the cabinet door

If the facade you use already has holes under the loop - you can skip this stage. There are no holes in our example, so they should be placed and drilled.

IMPORTANT: Placing the location of the loops, consider the cabinet configuration and the location of the metal distribution box. Do not forget - for the placement of retacate plates, the loops requires about 20-25 mm free space. Also, it is not necessary to have a loop in hard-to-reach places for installation, for example - close to the shelves.

To drive the loop holes, the forstner drill is used with a diameter of 35 mm. Holes should be positioned at a distance of 5-6 mm from the side edge of the facade and at a distance of 50-100 mm from its lower and upper edges (Fig. 8).

Using the caliper, measure the desired distances from the edges of the facade and mark the centers of the loop openings.

The quantities of indents:

35 mm / 2 + 5.5 mm \u003d 23 mm - from the side edge;

99.5 mm + 35 mm / 2 \u003d 117 mm - From the lower (upper) edge.

Since our example used already ready-made facade and the assembly was performed on the basis of its size - the upper loop was placed a little lower, due to the uncomfortable location of the electrical box (Fig. 2).

Scattering the hole, pinched them with a sequer strictly perpendicular to the surface of the facade.

Install the forstner drill in the cartridge and secure it securely. Remove the loop opening to the desired depth. The loop cup must be fully accommodated inside the hole.

Never try to do this job in one stage. After drilling a hole to a depth of 5-7 mm, continue drilling gradually. Removing small layers of material with a thickness of 1-2 mm, apply a loop and check its position. Do not forget - the drill has a sharp protrusion at the end, which can damage the front side of the facade with too deeply choking. Some masters have the leads this protrusion or use two types of equipment at all, first cutting the circuit with a regular drill, and then using a drill without a protrusion, drill holes to the end. However, with proper use of the tool - work can be easily performed by the usual (sharp) drill, as the leaf of the LDSP has a sufficient stock of the thickness.

IMPORTANT: Performing the drilling of the holes of the large diameter, do not forget to put the hard material under the facade to avoid the break of its face.

After the holes are made, clean them thoroughly. Set the loops cups and align the loops using the bar, rules or construction level. Then take the centers of fastening holes loops with a pencil

Remove the loops. Punch with a seboard and spoil the mounting holes with a thin drill to a depth of 3-4 mm.

After re-installing the loop and secure them with complete screws-screws.

Marking of holes for retaliatory plates loops

Align the door and the support side using the rule. Using the caliper, set a small technological gap (2-3 mm) along the entire length of the door edge (Fig. 8). The upper and lower edges of the elements should coincide.

Do not be afraid to make a mistake when setting a gap, it can later be adjusted by 2-3 mm adjusting the loops of the loop.

Start the centers of the mounting holes of the retarded plates of the loop on the side wall of the cabinet with a simple pencil. Remove the door with the loops, pinched the shill and sear the holes to a depth of 2-3 mm using a thin drill.

Assembling and fixing the cabinet

It is advisable to assemble the mounted furniture not only in accordance with the principles of fixing the elements, but also considering the method of consolidating the entire design on the wall. So you can provide yourself more comfortable working conditions (especially if the assembly and fixing is performed alone).

In our case, the optimal solution is to combine the assembly and consolidation of the cabinet. Thus, the two parts of the locker are assembled in advance, and after being tightened among themselves at the place of consolidation. This method will allow you to fix the top side of the locker on the wall of the electrical box using the adhesive composition.

Assembly of the first half of the cabinet

Collect and torn the first half of the locker (Fig. 9) using Evrovints. The fasteners are fastened to the through holes of the first mating element (the right side wall), and then screwed into the end holes of the second (lower screed) using a hex key or screwdriver (screwdriver) with a hexagon bat. Tightening the confirmates is performed until their caps are flush with the plane of the material.

Assembly of the second half of the cabinet

For the assembly of the second half of the locker as an additional retainer uses PVA glue. Add some glue into the mounting holes on the plane of the first conjugate element (left side wall) (3-4 drops each), after which it is tightly scroll into them using a plastic hammer. Lock the rear mounting corner on the side of the cabinet

Similarly, add glue into the end holes of the second mating element (top screed). Tightly align the items and, if necessary, fix them using painting tape or backups.

Preparation for mounting

At first, install the first half of the cabinet close to the metal boxing and mark the side fasteners. Since the markup is performed through the side wall - use a pencil or marker inexpediently. It is more convenient to produce it with a nail or drill with a small drill right through the openings in the side wall of the cabinet.

Install the second half of the cabinet is also close to boxing. Follow the center of the rear metal corner of the rear metallic corner with a simple pencil.

Drive the mounting holes using the drills corresponding to the diameter of plastic dowels (most often for fixing small wall modules are used dowels with a diameter of 6 mm).

IMPORTANT: When performing holes in the walls, be extremely careful. The feeding electroles connected in the distribution box and located near it should not be damaged by the drill. If you are not sure - where the feed lines are located, use